Stage Makeup
How it works
Creating a believable character is one of the greatest challenges an actor faces when performing in a
show. Actors must consider a host of factors. What does the character sound like? How does he or
she move? And of course there's the often-parodied question, "What's my character's motivation?"
One thing that can help an actor flesh out a role into a believable character is stage makeup.
Through stage makeup, actors can transform themselves. They can travel through time to play
someone younger or add decades of experience with a few simple products and techniques. They
can switch genders or become something inhuman. And just as stage makeup can help an audience
suspend disbelief as they watch a show it can help an actor lose him or herself in a role.
Joe Tabacca/AP Photo
John Lithgow begins to apply makeup before a performance of
Dirty Rotten Scoundrels.
Straight makeup
The fundamental purpose of stage makeup is to correct the effects of distance and light that would
otherwise make your face completely disappear. Stage makeup serves a totally different purpose than
regular every day makeup. Stage makeup may be a necessity anytime you will perform on a stage, or
any place with stage lights.
Character makeup
When you're making an actor into another person you must alter his appearance so it fits the new
character. If the character is mean, kind, fat, thin or ugly you must change the actors own features to
match this. To be able to do this a lot of different methods can be used such as wigs, false teeth and
facial prosthetics.
When you're doing a highlight and shadow makeup you are really just using the actor’s own features
to alter his looks by showing and hiding things that are already there. Depending on what kind of
stage you are working on the makeup can differ quite a bit. If you're working on a small stage you
have to put on makeup which is very subtle but for a big stage it can look really grotesque in person
but great on stage.
Character makeup can also sometimes be classical makeup's like the Peking opera masks or
Japanese kabuki makeup.
Types of Stage Makeup
Pigmentation
In most cases, actors will need a foundation that matches their own skin tone. For some productions,
an actor may need to choose a shade lighter or darker than his or her natural skin color. Actors
shouldn't apply a foundation that strays from their own skin tones. If your foundation's color differs
from your skin tone too much, it will appear unnatural to your audience.
Every actor or makeup artist needs certain tools to create the perfect face for a production. The first
thing to consider is the makeup itself. There are three main categories of stage makeup: grease paint,
cream-based makeup, and cake makeup.
Greasepaint contains oil and can come in cream or stick formats. It's a heavy makeup and can cause
people with sensitive skin to develop acne after wearing it for a few hours. It's also harder to remove
than creame or cake makeup. While it was once the only type of stage makeup available, it is seldom
used today.
Cream-based makeup is easier to apply evenly than either grease paint or cake makeup. It blends
well, comes in a variety of pigments, and is easy to remove. It is the most commonly used type of
stage makeup today.
Cake makeup comes in powder form, which you must mix with a little water before applying to your
skin. While cake makeup tends to be gentler on the skin, it's also challenging to apply without
streaking. Cake makeup is easier to remove than cream-based makeup.
Any type of stage makeup should have a high-pigment content. The pigment is important in stage
productions, because actors often perform under bright lights. These lights will reveal imperfections.
Makeup with a high-pigment content can conceal blemishes or other skin conditions.
In addition to a foundation, actors will need rouge, shadow and highlight makeup, a pencil liner,
mascara, eye shadow, lip color and powder. Most actors and makeup artists will use a translucent
powder, though some will choose a powder that matches the color of their foundation. That covers the
basics. For special effects, actors may need additional makeup including an adhesive called spirit
gum, blood makeup, crepe hair (for false beards) or gelatin.
Other items that should be in every actor's makeup kit are various makeup removers. Many actors
use cold cream to remove makeup. But a full makeup kit could also include spirit gum remover, an
astringent, moisturizer and eye cream.
Stage Makeup Tools
Other Handy Items…
A good way to anger a stage manager or costumer is to get makeup all over your costume. To avoid
this theatrical faux pas, it's a good idea to wear an old shirt while applying and removing makeup.
Once you've set your makeup, you can put on your costume. Another handy thing to carry with you is
a headband to keep your hair out of your face as you work your magic.
The well-equipped actor will have a variety of tools inside a makeup kit. To apply a foundation
smoothly, actors use makeup sponges. You can find sponges made of latex or latex-free materials.
The triangular sponge is popular among actors because the shape of the sponge makes it easier to
apply makeup around features like the ears and nose.
A good makeup kit will also contain a variety of brushes. Use a soft, long-haired brush to apply rouge
or other powder-based colors on top of your foundation. Use shorter-hair brushes to apply shadows
and highlights if you wish to accentuate the lines of your face -- an essential part of creating an older
appearance.
Applying makeup becomes easy with a large mirror, bright lighting and a little practice.
A powder puff is also a necessary tool. As you might expect given the name, you use a powder puff to
apply setting powder on top of your makeup. Setting your makeup prevents it from streaking or
smudging as you perform. Since actors can become warm under the hot lights of the stage or while
moving around under bulky costumes, sweating is almost impossible to avoid. Setting your makeup
with powder will help prevent you from sweating it off in the middle of the show.
If you plan to create special effects with your makeup, you'll want to purchase a stipple sponge. The
basic stipple sponge doesn't look like a sponge at all. It looks more like a block made out of wire
mesh. Actors use stipple sponges to create special textures with makeup. With the right application
technique, you can use a stipple sponge to create effects like bloody scratches or severe burns.
Makeup kits should also include tools designed to help remove makeup. Washcloths, cotton balls,
baby wipes and a towel are good items to have on hand. If you're using putty to alter the shape of
your nose, you may also want to have some dental floss on hand. You can use the floss to peel away
the putty.
Basic Application Guide
Step 1: Prep Your Face
Before you can do anything else you MUST start with a clean face. I've noticed that many of the
people who complain about stage makeup ruining their skin don't really take the necessary steps to
prevent it. Cleaning & preparing your face for makeup is extremely important not only for skin care but
also to ensure that your makeup will look its best once applied. Also it's easier to ensure a smooth
makeup application if your skin is clean beforehand.
Here are some tips for cleaning / prepping your face:



warm water opens up your pores to help you get the gunk out
an exfoliant removes the dead skin that can cause a flaky texture under your
foundation
cold water closes your pores and can help keep the makeup from getting deep down
in your skin.
Use a non-oily moisturizer to prep your skin, and give it a few minutes to sink in. The moisturizer helps
create a smooth surface for applying the makeup, and also creates a layer of protection.
Note: Male actors shouldn't shave immediately before applying stage makeup. Shaving can irritate
the skin and applying makeup can cause further irritation.
Step 2: Foundation
Your cream foundation must match your natural coloring! This is extremely important for achieving a
natural look onstage. The best match is a shade darker than your natural color, as if you had a tan (or
a darker tan).
Using a foundation brush or sponge to apply your foundation, start at the center of your face (your
nose) and work outwards, up into the hairline, out to the ears, and then down through the neck. Using
this method prevents you from missing spots and also minimizes the amount of blending you must do
afterwards.
Wipe off the excess from your foundation brush or use a new sponge, and blend the edges of your
foundation. Areas to watch for are your hairline, ears, around the nose and lips. Do not be afraid to
get foundation on your lipline, as this will actually help your lipliner to hold and prevent feathering.
Step 3: Contouring
Contouring is a step that many community theatres skip, but it is very important if you are performing
in a large theatre or in a theatre with very strong lighting. When you have so many lights on your face,
the lack of shadow can cause your face to appear very flat. Contouring replaces the highlights and
shadows to give your face dimension. For contouring you will need both a very light and a very dark
makeup - cream foundations in the right color will work fine if you don't have the professional products
designed for contouring.
Caring for your makeup tools
Makeup brushes can be a breeding ground for bacteria and fungus. Every time you use one on your
face, it picks up dirt, bacteria, oils, and dead skin cells (not to mention saliva and tears). Also, after a
while, dirty brushes get stiff, the bristles separate, and your makeup streaks when you apply it. Clean
brushes are softer on the skin and pick up makeup more evenly. So, keeping your brushes clean will
not only help prevent nasty infections and clogged pores, but will also result in your makeup looking
smoother and prettier. Therefore, it is important to clean theatrical brushes after every use.
There are specially-made makeup brush cleansers, but a face wash will do the trick just as well. Look
for a foaming cleanser like Olay Foaming Face Wash, which helps dissolve makeup and oils. Creamy
or milky cleansers may not be strong enough to remove dried foundation or caked-on makeup. Avoid
bar soap, laundry detergent, or dishwashing liquid, all of which can weaken the bristles and leave
residue that irritates your skin.
Follow these steps to make sure your brushes last longer and your makeup looks its best:
 Run your brushes under warm water to rinse off loose makeup. Do this with bristles facing
down.
 Apply a small amount of foaming cleanser, and work it into the bristles with your fingers.
Periodically rinse and reapply cleanser as needed, until water runs clear.
 Gently pat dry, reshape the bristles, and lie flat on paper towels. Do not dry brushes in an
upright position since water trapped inside the base of the brush can dissolve the glue that's
holding the bristles in place.
 When bristles start falling out, it’s time to get a replacement brush.
Dave M. Benett/Getty Images
Rowan Atkinson of Mr. Bean fame transforms into Fagin in the musical Oliver!