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UP-GRADES:
Flotation and ballast
According to the designs of the Reliant, if the boat is floating on her designed water line, the freeboard
(to the deck line, not toe rail) should be 55" at the bow and 32" at the back end of the hull, where it joins
the transom. Most of the sisterships are heavier than the designed displacement and float low in the
water. In most cases, they are lower in the stern than the bow. In some boats I have measured, the stern is
7-8" lower than anticipated by the designs, and the bow might be slightly above or as much as 8" down.
My understanding is that it is common that boats loaded for cruising are heavier and lower than suggested
by the designs. I am not sure but I suspect the boat does best when it floats roughly parallel with the
designed waterline. In general, this means resisting the tendency to move heavy things (batteries,
anchors, etc) aft, and keeping some heavy things under the forward bunks.
When we first bought ASTARTE, she seemed a bit tender. My father consulted with Rhodes/McCurdy,
and they recommended the addition of some inside ballast. My father bought some 1/4" lead sheet, and
we cut it into small pieces that we could install in the bilge under the forward settee. (We had installed a
tank for stove fuel in the bilge there, so the lead was cut to surround the fuel tank.) I think we put in
something like 900 pounds. This stiffened the boat somewhat.
My memories on this matter are confirmed by Richard Henderson. He writes in his book, "I have heard
reports that the Reliant is a bit tender in a blow, but in a fresh wind, CALYPSO seems to have ample
stability, partly because she carries about 900 pounds of extra ballast in the bilge, which apparently was
recommended by Phil Rhodes."
I have heard somewhere that Rhodes generally designed boats with roughly 10 percent less ballast than
needed, to allow for suitable adjustments with internal ballast.
Frank Hamilton had the extra ballast on HEART STRING, but he removed it to install a holding tank at
that location. His feeling is that the boat is not noticeably more tender with the ballast removed.
Lennart Konigson has these experiences on ROBUST:
One surprise as I removed the forward water tank was to find extra ballast in the form of four
sizable ingots of lead wedged in place at the bottom of the bulkhead between the two tanks. The
weight of the ballast was 100 kg (250 lbs).
I have had extra ballast in the bilge between the two mastfoot fitting supports for ages. It has
been a collection of odd shaped lead ingots lying in a heap under the floorboards. This has
always bothered me so now with the bilge opened I cast them into four large ingots and built
them into the bilge just aft of the bulkhead between the tanks (under the forward supporting
beam in the photo in rob-bilge pump). Here the bottom of bilge slopes downwards at quite a
steep angle. This added about 300 lbs to the existing ballast. Ensuring that they could not move
even with the boat upside down but could be removed if necessary called for quite a complicated
plywood construction.
All in all I must have added over 1,500 lbs of ballast to ROBUST (I have previously replaced the
wooden bottom plank aft of the lead keel with cast lead). In spite of this she continues to be a
fairly tender but very easily driven boat and very enjoyable to sail. There is no noticeable change
in her balance. If anything she has become even better balanced. I steer her with my little finger
even when she is well heeled over going to windward.
Tuning
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Some owners report the boat has a weather helm. Generally speaking, when a weather helm develops,
lowering a mizzen eases the steering without reducing the speed.
Adjusting the mast rake may help also. Measuring carefully from Rhodes' sail plan, the mast rakes as
drawn are:
main mast: 22" ( plumb line from main halyard is at back of mast step)
mizzen mast: 10" (plumb line from halyard comes to center of lazarett vent)
In practice, my masts are quite close to vertical; I wonder if my father set the masts this way to reduce the
weather helm.]
Double headsail rig
In the summer of 1975, my father (aged 60 then) was sailing non-stop from Martha's Vinyard to New
York, with a crew of my mother and his secretary, and with a non-functioning engine. At sunset off the
Connecticut River, the weather report called for possible thunderstorms. He lowered and un-hanked the
genoa, hauled out the working jib and put it on, and decided that he needed a better way of reducing sail
if he was going to sail ASTARTE into his old age.
He contacted Jim McCurdy, who designed an add-on bowsprit made of stainless steel pipe for a roller
genoa jib and a club staysail. The staysail necessitated a pedestal to hold the boom, a traveller on the
cabin top, and a new fixture point on the mast to support the staysail stay and halyard, and this, in turn,
was supported by jumper struts. The photo section gives some views of the bowsprit and deck hardware.
With this system, my father could easily use and roll up a large genoa jib and could set a moderate sized,
self tacking staysail that was comfortable in quite strong winds. However, the space between the genoa
jib stay and the staysail stay was not very large, and the genoa jib did not tack easily. Sometimes, a crew
member had to go forward to help the genoa around. So we installed an eye in the deck a couple of feet
aft. If we expect to tack a lot, we shift the staysail stay aft to the new location, and tacking the genoa is
much easier. The new rig was successful. My father sailed vigorously for another 17 years, until his
untimely death in 1992. (There was that season before his cataract operation, when he couldn't see a huge
oil tanker, not to mention a buoy -- but that is a separate story.) I have Jim McCurdy's original sketches if
anyone is interested.
Frank Hamilton rigged HEART STRING in a somewhat similar manner. He has a 110 percent jib on a
roller furler -- a little bit larger than the original working jib. This is is primary headsail, and moves the
boat along nicely in all but the lightest airs. He also has an inner staysail stay, located as shown as the
luff of the spinnaker staysail on the original sail plan. The bottom end of the stay comes down in front of
the cleats, and the top uses a lug on his aluminum mast. Frank feels that the mast is robust enough
without backstays or jumpers to support the attachment point of this staysail stay. The inner stay enables
Frank to hank on a small jib when needed, almost a storm jib. It is loose footed and uses two jib sheets,
shown in his photo.
Doug Wintermute (RAVEN) has virtually an identical set-up, except he has removable running
backstays, which are secured to the jib sheet pad eyes (with proper backing plates) and led aft to winches.
Lennart Konigson has almost the same arrangement
Patricia Zajac (RUSALKA) is adopting a similar rig. She has fixed the top of the inner stay just above
the spinnaker topping lift fitting, and uses the spinnaker topping lift as a storm jib halyard. The stay has
spectra line tail which goes through a removable block on a padeye on the foredeck. (The padeye is
secured with the bolts straddling and connected to the forepeak bulkhead with stainless steel brackets for
extra support.) The stay can be easily released and led back to the mast when not needed. The spectra
tail goes aft through a turning block to a sheet-stopper/cleat near her big Barient 32 self-tailing primary
winch. She has running back stays on cars at the aft end of the tracks on the toe rail.
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Loren Schaller has a similar rig on ANTARES. His inner stay is lower, located a little above the
spreaders, and has no extra support. At that location it is pretty well supported by the aft lowers. It
attaches to the deck about three feet aft of the stem. Loren put a timber under the deck to reinforce it.
The stay has a release lever and is moved aft when not in use. The small jib is loose footed, and sheets
are dead-ended at the mast step, go through blocks on the sail, and then to blocks shackled to lifeline
stanchion bases. Loren reports the rig works very well sailing into strong wind, even if he can't get the
stay very tight.
Park Shorthose has a similar temporary cutter arrangement on SHIBUI and Sig Baaredsen has done
something similar to MARY T.
The consensus on this approach is impressive. This solution is quite a bit simpler than what my father
installed on ASTARTE. The main difference is that our bowsprit permits both the big jib and the staysail
to be somewhat larger, and gives us a self-tending staysail, extremely convenient for short tacking.
Brian Johnson's WINDRESS has a club footed jib, as well as larger sails.
While we are talking about rigging, we might note that SALA-MA-SOND, the last sistership built, has a
second set of spreaders. They have no shrouds coming to the base of the spreaders, and therefore, I
would guess, create dangerous side pressures on the upper mast column. My guess is that Cheoy Lee
casually inserted them for marketing purposes at a time when two-spreaders were becoming popular.
Jib Furlers
Many sisterships are using furling headstays for their large jibs: ASTARTE, BRIES, CARINA,
HEARTSTRING, PEGASUS, RAVEN, ROBUST, RUSALKA, TRINKA, WINDIGO and probably
others.
Gary Stephens on PEGASUS has a 120% jib of 6 1/2 oz. material on a roller. In heavy airs, he will drop
it and put up an 85% jib of 9 oz. material. He thinks that this can be rolled with his Schaffer furling gear
and used as a storm job. (I have always been skeptical about using a jib furler to reef a jib; there is
something about the static torque loads that make me uncomfortable. Am I being too conservative?)
Ernie Croan loves to blast around windy San Francisco Bay on BRIES with her 120% roller jib and
mizzen. He scarcely ever uses the mainsail!
What brand of furler is best? Tom Bigsby (ELUTHRA) has experience in rebuilding furlers
professionally. He reports that Schaefer, Profurl and Harken are all extremely reliable. He has seen
many Furlex units in for repair.
Specifically, Tom says that the Harken Mark II Unit 2, the Profurl 42, and the Schaefer 2100 series are
respective appropriate models for our boats. For his own boat he may ultimately flip a coin between
Profurl and Schaefer.
Pat Zajac (RUSALKA) recommends Harken, with these comments:
I love my Harken. At the time I put it on, it was the preferred system with recommendations
from the BOC boats. I understand Profurl has significantly updated theirs and that it is excellent
also. It appears that the units with North and Hood labels are Harkens.
The ability to roll up the jib part way depends a lot on the cut of the sail initially and whether it
is designed to do so. Some singlehanded racers have jibs made which will set quite well
partially rolled in... I think, though it includes a foam luff in the sail to make the shape better.
There are limits and it is recommended that the degree of rolling (essentially reefing using the
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furler) is only about 15-20 percent max. So if a 130% is the primary sail, it should only be
rolled to 115%. It is not reasonable to try to roll a 150% to a 90%. Of course, there are
emergency situations but the sail will look rather ugly. There also is the consideration of the
weight of the cloth, and stress points, as well as the leads for such extremes.
So I cast my vote for Harken.
Lennart Konigson repots his Italian made fuler (NEMO) has served well for a decade.
Jib sizes
COLLECTIVE EXPERIENCES
Ben's "slugish" staysail
ORIGINAL WORKING JIB
Sig's "bash to windward"
Frank Hamilton HEART STRING
Sig's "most used"
Gary Stephens PEGASUS
Ernie Croan BRIES
Sig's proposed small Genoa
ORIGINAL NO. 2 GENOA
Sig's proposed new Genoa
Sig's "light air workhorse"
John Paradis FEMME
ORIGINAL NO. 1 GENOA
60%
208 sq ft
85%
271 sq ft
90
265 sq ft
110% roller
110%
348 sq ft
120% roller
120% roller
120%
375 sq ft
125%
377 sq ft
130%
407 sq ft
135%
425 sq ft
150% roller
165%
574 sq ft
(Nova Scotia)
(San Fran. Bay)
It looks like there is some convergence on a primary sail in the 120% (375 sq ft) in windy places to 135%
(425 sq. ft.) range for more general sailing. The larger jibs seem needed only in very light airs (when
John Paradis wins his races!). Smaller jibs (90%-110%) (265-348 sq. ft) are adequate for most windier
conditions.
Main Furling, Reefing, Vang
Richard Kask (CARINA) has a fully battened mainsail with lazy jacks, and uses slab reefing. Fred
Gevalt (FIONA) has a similar if not identical setup, and I think that DOLFIN, HEART STRING,
SHENANDOAH, and SISKIWIT are similar. MARY T also has full-battened mainlsail and mizzen. Pat
Zajac's photo of RUSALKA shows slab reefing lines also. ROBUST has a single line reefing
arrangement which allows Lennart to reef singlehandedly from the cockpit. (The reefing system is
supplied by Selden, which supplied the boom for it.) Richard and Fred both report that handling of the
mainsail is greatly simplified, particularly when the breeze picks up and the crew does not. They both
like the slab reefing a lot, and consider it an improvement over the original roller reefing (which I still
use).
On HEART STRING and CARINA, the reefing line leads aft to the back of the cabin top, to a winch just
behind the dorade ventilator. On other boats, the reefing line winch is at the mast base (DESTINY) or on
the boom (DRAGON LADY).
John Paradis on FEMME similarly has a big slab reef in the main about 12 feet up. When carrying his
150% genny, he reefs the main at 15-25 knots of wind. Above 25 knots of wind, he has to switch to his
100% jib.
While enthusiastic about this re-configuration of the mainsail, Richard Kask says that on CARINA the
full length battens present some problems. Especially as the wind picks up, there is a lot of compression
on the battens and a lot of binding on the sail slides near the battens. One day, the binding was so serious
105
that lowering the main to reef it was a very difficult task. He is now researching the special hardware
with roller bearings for batten cars and sail slides.
Tom Bigsby (ELEUTHRA), who does professional rigging work, emphatically believes that upgraded
sliding systems are needed to ensure that it is easy to get the mainsail down.
Tom and Richard and report that the hardware options to solve this problem are:
1. Dutchman cars for battens that straddle the track and roll on the mast (OK for aluminum
mast, maybe not sensible with wooden mast) - price around $600.
2. Strong, with a special track that fastens to old track, and roller cars for battens and sail slides price around $1,000. (Another estimate is closer to $800.)
3. Antal "nice system," around $1,200.
4. Harken, "pretty hard to beat," similar to Strong - price around $1,300-1,500
Lennart reports that SELDEN has sliders also, which ROBUST uses and which make reefing quite
simple.
Glen Smith reports that WINDFLOWER has a Hood Stow-away mast. It works fairly well, but not very
quickly. It takes about the same time and effort to roll or unroll a sail as to hoist or lower it. The work
can be done from the cockpit. The sail can be reefed quite easily. WINDFLOWER also has a Hood
roller jib with foam pads in the luff, and this can be used in a reefed position.
Gary Stephens installed a rigid vang (Garhauer) on PEGASUS. He reports the vang improved windward
performance and reduced weather helm. "We have pointed as high as 30 to 35 degrees true and still made
good. We recently raced a Hallberg Rassey 36, a Tayana 37, proud to say that they fell to a speedy OS
40."
New Sails
How much will new sails cost? In 1991-93, David Epstein got some quotations. Needless to say, these
are out of date, but can be used as some rough guideline against which to consider newer quotations:
North Chesapeake
main (reg)
2,048
Lee (Hong Kong)
1,280
main (full batten) 2,106
Genoa
2,350
1,047
Work Jib
1,823
481
mizzen
461
mizzen staysail
637
storm jib
303
Airfreight
545
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Brian Johnson has priced a new full batten main sail from Mack sails (Stuart, FL) for WINDRESS (in
1998). He reports:
I was impressed with their quality and price at the Annapolis boat show. I went back and forth
between conventional and full battens with the Strong Track insert over the existing track. I did
have a concern that the look of the Strong track would be poor but I got a sample piect and it
does not really standout on the mast. Brad Mack (800-428-1384) stopped by the boat on the
way back and we had a good look see.
Pricing was:
Full batten main, 2 reefs $2,635
Strong Track
$650
Mack Sails lazy Jacks
$200
Pat Zajac has good experiences getting used sails from Bacon in Annapolis MD. She writes:
I have had good luck (and good sails including a light 155%, 3oz and a storm jib) from Bacon &
Associates, in Annapolis MD. Phone is 410-263-4880. Just call and tell them the type of sail
you are interested in, i.e. mizzen staysail, spinnaker, etc. and they will send you their listings
and info on ordering and policies. They give lots of details about the sail, type/weight of cloth,
hanks vs luff tape and types of luff tape, colors, etc.
They also rate their sails, and the rating is very conservatively. If they say the sail is "good" it is
generally very good. She told me that by saying a sail is "soiled" it means it was probably put
on the loft shelf for awhile and gathered some dust. Compared to new sails, used sails through
classifieds such as Lat 38, and other used sail sources, I have found Bacon to be excellent in
number, quality and price, even considering shipping.
Boom and Boom Gallows
A few boats have experimented with alternative placement of the main sheet/traveller. On CARINA, the
traveller has been placed on the bridge deck. While this may be convenient for sailing, it interferes with a
space that on my boat is a critical food serving area.
On SERENDIPITY, the sheet has been moved to the middle of the boom, and the traveller has been
moved to the cabin top (simpler on this boat because it is a two cabin layout, with the single, centered
companionway at the back of the trunk cabin). The photo seems to show some tackle on the end of the
boom, which is probably needed to pull the end of the boom down when hard on the wind.
SELENE has boom gallows. The sketches in articles about Stan Starkey's cruise to the Caribbean shows
roughly how it is made. It is located near the end of the boom. Stan wrote to me:
Yes, I still hit my head on it after all these years. It was installed by the previous owner, and I've
found it to be very useful. It is built very heavily and strongly. It is a secure hand hold in rough
weather as well as a safe secure storage for the very heavy boom when not in use. Of course, its
most important function is as a secure place for the boom to rest when reefing. Many years ago I
replaced the roller reefing with slab reefing and find the boom gallows invaluable. My gallows
is built on two brackets that look very much like the brackets that support the primary winches.
This has worked well.
SALA-MA-SOND has an interesting boom gallows made of pipes secured to the deck and on either side
of the cabin. The top part drops down into the bottom part so it stays out of the way of the boom when
under sail. This configuration looks neat on this two-cabin boat, but might not work so well with the
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indented companionway of the three cabin sisterships. It is partially visible on the photograph on the
website.
BRIES has a fixed boom gallows. OWL has a fixed boom gallows near the aft hatch, which also appears
to support some sort of awning-bimini. (see photo section)
SHIBUI, a sloop, uses a single post to serve as a boom crutch when the main is down. It is about 2" pipe
that fits into a socket at the aft starboard corner of the cockpit. (See photo) HOLOKAI has a boom
support made of pipe, which screws into a flange near the side of the companionway. It can be
unscrewed to get it out of the way.
Anchor Windless and Chain
The other upgrade my father made at that time to enable him to sail ASTARTE into his old age was to
install an anchor windless and anchor chain to manage a 45 lb CQR. He put in the Simpson Lawrence
555 Seatiger. This is a powerful, manual two-speed windless. My father did not want want lifting the
anchor dependent on electricity. The windless is powerful but slow and takes quite a bit of work. (The
photo section shows the installation on deck.) The windless is mounted aft of the ventilator, with the
hawspipe coming down aft of the forepeak bulkhead and bending forward to drop the chain in front of the
bulkhead.
While the windless does the work, a critical part installing a windless involves the size, length, and
methods of stowing chain. These issues require at least as much consideration as the question of which
windless to get. If the chain is not self stowing, you have problems. A crew member must be below
helping manage the chain. If you are sailing short handed and have to run from the fore deck back and
forth to the forepeak to manage the chain, it can be hazardous. You don't want to have interruptions as
the anchor is coming up or down.
Our windless is mounted aft of the ventilator. (Forward of the cleats, we have another deck plate/hawse
pipe and we have an anchor line in the front end of the forepeak.) Our chain comes down aft of the
forepeak bulkhead through a pipe that is bent forward to carry the chain so that it drops down and piles up
at the bottom aft corner of the forepeak (slightly visible in the interior photo). We carry 150 feet of 3/8"
chain this way, and no more than this will fit easily into this location. Sometimes the chain piles up and
obstructs the hawse pipe. Then someone has to go below to move the chain. I try to rearrange the chain
early in the hoisting process, so that the obstruction will not occur with the anchor dangling down 20 feet.
(A longer chain would fit if you use 5/16" high tension; I don't remember why my father didn't choose
that option.)
In the original installation my father had the hawse pipe made of 1 1/2" pipe. The chain could get stuck
in the pipe, so when hoisting or lowering the anchor, someone would have to run below to pull the kinks
out of the chain. Finally last year, I decided this was an intolerable safety hazard, and I had a new hawse
pipe made that is larger and allows passage of small kinks in the chain.
The 150 feet of chain has normally been enough for the harbors in which we anchor, but last year I
spliced an additional 150 feet of nylon line to the end of the chain and built a shelf on the side to hold the
line clear and above the chain (visible in the battery picture). Normally we don't use the rope, but it is
available when needed.
This approach works, but we do end up with a lot of weight very far forward, and this probably adds to
pitching in a head sea.
(Note: As indicated above, our forepeak is divided into two portions. We have 180 feet of nylon line in
the forward part available as the second anchor line, which I frequently use with a 40 lb Danforth when
thunder squalls come through an anchorage.)
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On RAVEN, Doug Wintermute originally had the same manual SL 555 but decided it was too slow. He
then installed a Maxwell Neilson electric windlass (made in New Zealand). Doug reports that it has
worked very well. It has dual direction power, and Doug thinks this is necessary. The windlass is
mounted about 10" forward of the cleats and a bit to starboard, to accommodate a bow roller for a CQR
anchor. Doug made a large backing plate, and tapped into it a 1 1/2" plastic conduit, which comes down
and aft, carrying chain past the bulkhead. Aft of the bulkhead, Doug is currently installing a stainless
chute (attached to the hull with 5200) about 30" long. He hopes the chain will slide down and self-stow
in the area just forward of the forward head compartment, now converted into a vegetable locker. He is
using 300 ft of 5/16" chain.
If this works, this will be a welcome solution to the problem of having adequate chain self stowing and
further aft and lower. We all look forward to hearing Doug's evaluation of this system.
On HEART STRING, Frank Hamilton has an Ideal electric two-way windless that works fine. The
windlass is mounted forward of the cleats, and drops 200 ft of 3/8" chain into a 4" PVC pipe that leads the
chain aft to where the forward cabin head used to be. The chain pipe is not angled enough for the chain
to stow itself; when hoisting the anchor, a crew member must be in the forward cabin to pull down the
chain and flake it in the locker. The foredeck ventilator has been replaced with a hawse pipe to take on
deck an anchor line or a hose for washing the deck.
Stan Starkey (SELENE) also uses the Ideal windlass with 3/8" chain and just lets the chain drop into the
forepeak. He also has a deck hose to wash the chain.
John Paradis also has an Ideal windlass, which manages a Danforth 22 with 35 feet of 5/16" chain and
300 ft. of 5/8" nylon. John says this anchor has held in hurricanes. The stretch in the nylon line
minimizes shock on the anchor and on the boat.
On PEGASUS, Gary Stephens has installed a Simpson Lawrence "Pacific V1500" windless with 300 feet
of 5/16" HT chain. Its motor is vertical and comes down about 10" below the deck. Gary says that it
lighter, stronger, and uses less energy that other windlasses. Gary has the windless mounted forward of
the cleats, and drops the chain into the forward portion of the forepeak. He has a partition there to keep
the chain forward. He uses a 55 lb Delta anchor, which he says comes up and over the bow roller very
nicely, and nestles in to the stem fitting.
The photo of TRINKA shows a windless quite far forward; I haven't discussed with Thurston Lord how
much chain he has, and where it is stowed.
Chain coming on deck is often muddy. I am using a chain scrubber that is slipped over the chain and then
brushed up and down (under water) with a boat hook as the chain comes up. It works well. Frank
Hamilton uses his deck hose to wash his chain. John Paradis always brushes and washes the anchor line
as it comes up and drys out the line before stowing it.
Bryan Johnson (WINDRESS) has a deck wash pump (drawing water from a tee on the head intake),
which comes through a deck plate on the forward deck for hosing off the chain.
Lennart Konigson reports that on ROBUST:
I also installed an electric windlass - the Italian made Lofrans since it was the only one I found
which could be operated manually if the power supply failed). I used the hole of the forward
ventilator and strengthened the underside with a thick piece of plywood making sure that
everything was inundated with penetrating epoxy and than coated with regular epoxy. It has so
far worked very well and saved me a lot of back ache as we sail a lot in Norwegian waters where
you frequently have to anchor in over 20 fathoms of water.
I am sure there are other solutions to the problem on anchors and chains that have their own advantages
and disadvantages.
109
Note on Chain. An important issue is whether to use 3/8" BBB chain or 5/16" HT chain. The 5/16" HT
chain is far lighter, and it is easier to stow more feet. However, according to Gary Stephens (who uses it),
the HT chain is more brittle and can fracture under shock or strange loads. Moreover, it deteriorates
when re-galvanized multiple times. The 3/8" BBB chain is more durable and more able to absorb shocks.
Gary also recommends NOT using a chain hook for a relieving line, as it puts a sideways pressure on the
chain link which can break the link. He uses a carabineer hook that fits into the chain link, and pulls on
the link the proper way.
Note on jib furlers and chain. I feel quite strongly that the roller jib very adversely affects anchoring.
The furled up jib has a lot of windage. More importantly, the windage is far forward, so the boat swings
more at the anchor, and when it swings, it presents more windage. I feel that chain also increases the
swinging of the boat. When the boat is head to wind, the strain is reduced and the chain pulls down and
forward; the boat moves forward. Then, as the boat starts to swing and wind catches one side of the bow
(and the turning effort is accentuated by the roller jib), the chain is somewhat slack, and the bow can
swing to the side and back quite far before it tightens up the chain. We installed the roller jib and the
chain in the same year, and I noticed quite a difference. For these reasons, I would not use John Paradis'
22 lb. Danforth for anything more than a lunch hook. John's FEMME does not have a jib furler, and as a
sloop, lacks the windage of a mizzen.
To secure the anchor and help handling it, FLASH has a short wooden bowsprint. SEA CALL's stem
fitting has a wide section on the starboard side that can accomodate the shank of a CQR anchor. It even
has side tabs with holes so that a long pin can go through the tabs and a ring on the anchor, nicely
securing the anchor.
Autopilots and Self Steering
In Spring 1997, I installed a Robertson autopilot on ASTARTE. It was expensive and the installation
was difficult. It has very modern electronics and uses a hydraulic ram directly on the quadrant. Because
of the geometry of the installation, I could not use either the small or large Robertson integrated hydraulic
unit. Instead, Robertson supplied me with detached hydraulic components (Hynautic ram and reservoir,
Robertson pump, solenoid valve). This permitted a more flexible but more complicated installation.
Some pros felt a viable alternative would have been to use the Autohelm electrical linear drive. The
attachment to the quadrant required a special attachment point, that involved a stainless steel plate with
bolster and bolt, bolted onto plywood wedges fitted into the webbing of the quadrant. The ram itself was
bolted onto a heavy plywood bracket, fiberglassed very securely to the port side of the boat, near, aft, and
outside the steering block. It works very well, and does not steal much space from the sail trap. As for
mounting the control head, I made a removable bracket that ties onto the binnacle guard. When the boat
is not in use, the the bracket can be removed and the control unit can be moved to the aft cabin navigation
station. (see photo section) This autopilot works very well.
On DRAGON LADY, John Bartlett also installed a Robertson with a linear hydraulic drive unit. In his
installation, he put a tiller facing forward on the top of the rudder post (where the emergency tiller
attaches), and then mounted the drive unit in the sail trap on the side of the cockpit, with the hydraulic
ram coming through a hole in the side of the cockpit.
FEMME similarly has an auto pilot using a small tiller at the top of the rudder post.
Doug Wintermute is installing a Navico on RAVEN, with hydraulic drive to the quadrant also.
On SELENE Stan Starkey is now using an Autohem 4000, which he likes very much. It draws about 1
amp most of the time, less when motoring in calm conditions and more in rough weather. (This is
presumably the external type that turns the steering wheel directly.)
Al Raufeisen on MOONGLOW has an Autohelm 6000 that works very well.
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Gary Stephens has put an Alpha on PEGASUS.
Another way to install a below-deck autopilot, which we have done previously, is to put a sprocket on the
bottom of the vertical shaft coming through the pedestal. That enabled use of an electric rotary drive
(with bicycle-type chain). We used this on both a Danforth/White and Benmar pilots, both of which
eventually became unserviceable.
Probably the most popular self steerer on our sisterships is the Monitor, distributed by Scanmar (510-2152010). They have installed the Monitor on 9 Offshore 40s since around 1980, and perhaps a few more
before. They have standardized the brackets and other installation issues. The Monitor is used on
RUSALKA, PEGASUS, TSARITSA, and others. On RUSALKA, the mizzen boom has been raised 18"
to accommodate the Monitor wind vane.
Aries Self steerers are also used. (I am told that the Aires is a sort of a predecessor to the Monitor.)
Thatcher Lord has an Aries on TRINKA. (see photo) He reports it works very well to windward. Off the
wind, it needs apparent wind of at least 5 knots. Ropes from the pendulum come forward on one side and
through reluctantly drilled holes in the coaming to a drum bolted onto the steering wheel. To tack, he has
to go aft and drop the windvane to clear the mizzen boom. He is thinking about attaching one of the
simple tiller autopilots to the vane mechanism. This would result in having a compass controlled unit
drawing very little current to set the course, while using the energy of the pendulum to actually steer the
boat.
Park Shorthose also has an Aries on SHIBUI, and reports it steers the boat nicely even in as little as 2
knots boat speed downwind. SHIBUI is a sloop, and does not have a mizzen in the way.
OWL has installed some similar self-steerer, and MARY T has a Hydrovane steering system.
SELENE had a RVG windvane self steerer on its Caribbean trip reported in annex 7. Stan Starkey says
that it never was very satisfactory. It required a lot of maintenance and could only be trusted to steer
unattended in the most ideal conditions. In 1985, he switched to an Autohem 4000 autopilot, described
above.
My father experimented with a self steer in the early 1970s (probably an early Aries), and it worked well
when the wind was forward of the beam. Ultimately, my father took it off because it didn't work well
enough to permit short handed coastal cruising. He went to the electrical/compass autopilots for coastal
sailing.
Doug Wintermute is in the process of installing a Cape Horn self steerer on RAVEN. In this system, a
pipe extends out of the stern of the boat and this holds both a wind vane and a pendulum. The pendulum
twists a shaft inside the pixe, which has its own quadrant inboard. Ropes connect the self-steerer's
quadrant to the ship's steering quadrant. Hopefully in the next season, we will find out from Doug how
well the system works.
On any of these systems, if you have a yawl, the wind vane has to be dismounted or lowered whenever
you tack. If you are offshore and staying on the same tack for a few days, this doesn't matter much. If
you are tacking frequently, it could be a bother. Alternatively, you can adopt Pat Zajac's solution, which
was to raise the mizzen boom 18".
The main advantage of the self-steerer is that it does not use electricity -- a distinct advantage for
extensive ocean passages, but less relevant for coastal cruising, where we use the engine daily to get in
and out of harbors and for refrigeration.
Electronics/Radar
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Our boats have a wide range of electronics, ranging from minimal to a lot, and from antique to modern. I
am have not sensed any generalizations that can be learned.
I will, however, share a little about my radar installation, for those of you considering such an addition.
Our radar is a small, weak Furuno, (1992, before the smaller LCD screens) and works excellently. We
originally got it to assist in fog, but in practice we also use it a lot at night to locate un-lighted buoys and
in general to minimize the confusion caused by shore lights. We go up and down the Delaware River at
night, and collision with barges, freighters, and buoys is a serious concern. It has also been a blessing in
entering harbors in the dark that do not have much lighting. We have entered and left the long, winding
Sassafras River in very dark nights, using the radar to keep us in the middle (or to the side, as needed).
We rely on it so much that I think it is reckless to cruise without one.
The antenna is mounted on the mizzen mast. We had a bracket fabricated of stainless steel (we favor
strength over weight-saving) that is attached just below the spreader and incorporates the through bolt
that holds the aft lower shrouds. The wire is screwed down on the aft side of the mast. I made a teak box
covering a large enough hole in the deck that allows the large connector at the end of the antenna wire to
pass through and be led to the radar set itself. This way when we take down the mast, we pull the whole
wire out without having a complex, corrosion-prone connection near the mast step. The unit itself is
mounted on the port side of the aft companionway (I know, some sister-ships just have a hatch here, not a
companionway) on a hinge device so it can swing out and be viewed by the helmsman.
Doug Wintermute has installed a Single Side Band radio on RAVEN. He has insulated one of the
backstays for an antenna. He thinks the major problem is providing the SSB with a large ground.
Grounding to the keel seems inadequate, and he has put copper foil on the inside of the hull below the
water line in the lazaret, sail traps, and quarter-berths. The copper foil is epoxied to the hull and then
covered over with more cloth, so is not visible or vulnerable. He hopes that this will increase the
effective area of the ground system.
HUNTRESS also has SSB.
Holding Tank
Back 1981, we installed a Type I MSD (Lectra/san), which can legally be discharged within three miles
of land, and we did not install a holding tank. The Lectra/san fits nicely into the locker outside of the
head, just behind the toilet seat.
However, times and laws are changing. Maryland's current law continues to allow use of the Type I
MSD, some bay sailors think this is just an interim situation and it is likely that in a few years the whole
Chesapeake Bay will be a "no discharge zone." Rhode Island's Gov. Lincon Almond apparently has
petitioned the EPA to have all coastal waters of Rhode Island declared a "no discharge zone," and
Mamaroneck Harbor in western Long Island Sound also has requested "no discharge" designation."
Proposals have been made to expand no-discharge areas in Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New York.
At present, when we are in Block Island, where Type I discharge is banned, we use a small porta-potti
(2.3 gal, which stows conveniently in the space between the forward V berths from which I removed the
original head), supplemented by a "milk bottle urinal," and trips to shore facilities as often as feasible.
This is not perfect, but does enable us to go to Block Island without guilt and without over-stretching
some important body parts. Over the long run, as no discharge zones expand, I will have to consider a
holding tank.
The big question is where to put the holding tank. Sisterships have adopted a variety of solutions:
On HEART STRING, a 19 gallon holding tank is in the bilge under the main cabin, just in front
of the mast support post. On my boat, that space is already claimed by a hot water heater, so I
can't use that approach.
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On FIONA, a small (15-20 gallon) holding tank has been installed in the lockers and shelves on
the outside of the head, where I have a Lectra/san, except that FIONA's holding tank goes up
almost to the deck. The tank was a commercial plastic tank. The pump-out fitting is right above
in on the deck; a "Y" valve and associated plumbing is conveniently located under the sink.
Bryan Johnson reports:
Kracor makes a 24-Gallon holding tank that JUST fit into WINDRESS’s' lazaret locker.
I fit a Y valve at the head and another that switches between the manual bulge pump in
the cockpit and the holding tank. If offshore or for annual cleanout/winterizing, the tank
can be pumped overboard without an additional pump or thru-hull.
Pat Zajac has put a tiny, 3 gallon tank essentially in line on the head outlet line, also tucked in
the locker behind the head. She single hands a lot and gets out of San Francisco Bay quickly, so
she can argue that a 3 gallon tank is enough capacity for her needs. A 3 gallon porta-potti is
reasonable because you can flush it with very little water. But if you flush the head with sea
water, a 3 gallon tank will fill very quickly.
Lennart Konigson similarly has a very small tank in that location. The air vent goes out through
the topsides. If the seacock is closed and the air vent opened, sewage is held in the tank.
However, if the air vent is closed and the seacock opened, the sewage goes through the tank and
overboard.
I have also heard of holding tanks under the seat of the main cabin closest to the head, under the
aft bunk near the head, and under the forward bunks, attached to a forward head.
On two-cabin Offshore 40s, the head is forward and there are some different options for a
holding tank. On SISKIWIT, a 33 gal. aluminum tank has been installed under the forward
starboard bunk. John Paradis was able to install a standard, triangular TDX tank on the side of
his head FEMME DU CREUX.
I still haven't decided where I will put a holding tank. I am leaning towards FIONA's solution. It seems
reasonably simple to install, and the tank and plumbing would be kept in the head. I regret it would
displace the Lectra/san capability.
Lee Cherubini recommends the very strong, thick linear polyethylene made by Kracor (1-800-255-6335).
They make many sizes and shapes of tanks. I think that these standard tanks make would fit outside and
behind the head:
Mold No. 4072 (24" x 12"
x 16", 20 gal)
Mold No. 4074 (24" x 11 1/2" x 16", 19 gal)
An alternative is to make a new tank that would replace the shower sump tank, but a bit larger in all
dimensions. This would keep the plumbing running down hill, so it would not stay filled with sewage
and would be less likely to permeate odors. However, getting drain pipes and air vents to that location is
complicated. If I used the sump tank space for sewage, I would then try to build a new shower/ice box
sump tank under the engine drain.
Another possibility would be to divide up the space of the aft water tank space, perhaps using Loren
Schaller's (ANTARES) discovery that one can put two tanks in side-by-side without taking out the head.
My conversations with Peggie Hall at Peal Products (800-352-5630) have convinced me that the trick to
having a holding tank, wherever it is located, is to have it very well vented -- two 3/4" or 1" vents to
different places, hopefully with differences in air pressure that would force constant ventilation.
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Apparently, the aerobic bacteria that live in a holding tank that is oxygenated do not stink as badly as
anaerobic bacteria that live in a badly vented tank.
Peggie is extremely knowledgeable about marine sanitation issues and has a business that involves
designing, specifying components, and supplying the parts, including tanks, hoses, fittings, pumps, etc. I
intend to work through her on this project, and recommend the same to others.
While we are on the unpleasant topic of head outlet plumbing, let's go one step further. Does anyone
understand the chemistry of head outlet plumbing? On the outlet side of the head, heavy, hard, stinky
deposits accumulate in the bottom of the head, on the inside of the hoses, on the inside of the MSD.
These surfaces must be cleaned mechanically at least every five years, or blockage is possible. The head
and all outlet plumbing must be disassembled and cleaned out. Muriatic acid is very helpful, but scraping
is also needed.
Since hoses become permeated with odors, it is best to replace the hoses at this point. Note that the
reasonably priced vinyl hose is not recommended if you will use anti-freeze in the head plumbing. This
forces us to move toward the premium sanitation hose at about $8.00 a foot.
Why do these deposits occur in these places? My guess is that urine is part of the reaction. Peggy Hall
believes these deposits are sea salts and minerals bound up by waxes in human waste. Does anyone know
more about it? Periodic treatments of vinegar (a mild acid) are thought to slow down or reduce the
problem. Is there any other way to combat it?
Gray Water Tank
Our boats have a gray water tank already, namely the sump tank for the shower and ice box. I have just
rearranged the drains for the galley, head, and fore cabin sinks to have them drain into this sump tank.
The reasons for this project are:
- to remove three old metal drains, seacocks, and through hull fittings which are potential sources of
problems. I was recently impressed to discover a small leak under the forward sink drain, caused by
electrolysis deterioration of the plug in the U trap.
- to improve the draw on the sinks.
- to end having to remember to turn off the sink seacock when we heel over on port tack.
- to make it easier to wash dishes on port tack.
- to eliminate gurgling sounds in the main cabin when I am sleeping there.
WINDIGO and HEART STRING have such a system already, which reassures me that this is a good
idea.
Last winter I installed a Whale Gulper 220 shower waste pump (designed to handle the debris in gray
water) and an automatic switch, so that this tank already pumps itself out automatically. The automatic
switch is exactly the same as described above for the electric bilge pump switch, sketched in Annex 15.
There is also a manual backup pump.
Now I have removed the old drains and replaced the original sink fitting with one with a strainer basket,
to minimize the lettuce and spaghetti that find their way into the drain pipes and grey water tank. I had to
enlarge the hole in the sink (with a circular file on an electric drill) by a about 1/4" and file down the
fitting's flange by about 1/4". It fits nicely now.
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Note should be made of Lennart’s modification to prevent water from coming into the sinks when heeled
over. He criss-crossed the hoses of the galley sink and the head sink, so that when the sinks are very low,
the drains are above the water on the opposite side. He removed the forward sink.
Information Center
One upgrade I really enjoy is a new instrument/switch panel accessible through the small door in the
board at the back of the navigation station, designed originally to access the back of the engine instrument
panel. I have the new panel on a hinge so I can swing it away and get to the instrument panel.
On the new panel I have:
Tank Tender, to gauge depth of fuel, water, and sump tanks. (This device has a small air pump
to pressurize thin tubes going to the tanks and measure the pressure at the bottom of the banks..)
This has proved tremendously useful. We no longer pull up to every dock, afraid we are low on
water or fuel. We confidently bypass docks now. When I take on fuel now, I check to see how
much I need, and then take on that amount, without having to over-fill and spill fuel to ensure
that I have filled the tank. WINDRESS also has a four unit "Tank Tender," and Bryan Johnson
warns that battery acid eats through the Tank Tender line quickly. His Tank Tender tubes for the
fuel tanks run against one of the battery cases for the house batteries. On WINDRESS, the Tank
Tender is mounted on the rear starboard bulkhead with the connections inside the hanging
locker.
Bilge pump counter. Extremely useful to know if and how much the boat is leaking.
Engine hour meter. Necessary for engine maintenance.
Fuel vacuum. Useful to gauge if fuel filter is getting clogged.
Fuel filter water indicator light.
Switches for engine alarm system (necessary), bilge alarm, and for engine compartment fan
(questionable utility).
Feathering Propeller
I installed a feathering propeller on my boat in Spring, 1996. The new propeller works wonderfully,
eliminating the annoyance and wear and tear on the transmission and transmission shaft seal of freewheeling under sail, reducing drag under sail, and providing much better performance under power, both
under way and during harbor maneuvers. While I still can not back up easily into a slip, at least the
reverse gear stops the boat with assurance.
Feathering propellers are available in two and three blades. I got a three blade propeller because I
presumed it would give more power in bad conditions and would run smoother. The obvious
disadvantage is higher cost. (around $1,800) A two blade propeller is a possibility; it is less costly. I
have been thinking that with a three blade propeller, it will be necessary to remove the rudder to remove
the propeller to replace the cutlass bearing. However, I just realized that if I remove one of the quadrant
stops, it might be possible to swing the rudder far enough to a side to permit removal of a three-blade
propeller.
Our Perkins 4-108 engine has a 2.18:1 reduction gear, and our original propeller was 17 x 9, 2 blade. In
moving to the feathering propeller, I got a three-blade 16 x 12 propeller. The combination of an extra
blade and extra pitch pushes the boat better. Of course, boats without reduction gears have been using
smaller diameter propellers and less pitch. (FEMME has a 13 x 9 2 blade, 1:1 drive.)
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The conversion to a feathering propeller is fairly simple on an Offshore 40. HUNTRESS and FIONA
have both installed MAXPROPS.
However, on the Rhodes Reliant, such as my boat, the propeller aperture is smaller, and the MAXPROP
will not fit. Its hub is too long for the space available, and the back of the blades will hit the rudder,
especially when the rudder is hard over. Three solutions have been used:
1. Doug Wintermute (RAVEN) rebuilt the aperture by cutting and grinding away fiberglass and
rebuilding the deadwood so that the stern bearing was shifted forward about 2 inches (see
photo).
2. Lennart Konigson built a new rudder with a larger aperature. (see above section on rudders)
3. I got a feathering propeller made by Paul Luke Inc. The Luke propeller has a shorter hub than
the MAXPROP and can fit into the aperture without structural modification.
There are some tricky matters in doing this, and I will report them in detail. Luke made the propeller
with custom shaped blades to ensure the rudder would not hit the propeller when it is hard over. If you
are copying my strategy, call Frank Luke at Paul Luke Inc., 207-633-4971 Box 816, East Boothbay
Maine 04544 and explain that you want a propeller with narrower blades, as he made for me.
Shaft: I stayed with the 1 1/4 diameter shaft. For the Luke propeller, because the hub of the propeller is a
little longer than the standard propeller, a new shaft is needed with a special, longer-than-normal taper.
Stern Bearing: I installed a new stern bearing to accommodate the extra hub length. The new bearing
sticks further into the hull and protrudes less into the aperture, leaving space for a zinc collar.
Miraculously, the hole in the boat was deep enough so I did not have to tamper with the interior fiberglass
configuration. This fitting was surprisingly expensive, but I felt that it was silly to spend all the money
for the propeller and not have space for a zinc collar. Since the bearing goes deeper into the hull, the
stern, tube (a pipe that threads into the back of the stuffing box and also into the front of the stern
bearing) needed to be shortened. Essex Machine Works (Bob Claps, 860-767-8285 fax 860-767-0226;
50 West Ave, Essex CT 06426) provided this fitting and shortened the stern tube. Mention my name to
help him identify the uncataloged fitting. I do not know if this is necessary in the Offshore 40. Perhaps
there is enough space to tolerate the original stern bearing sticking out from the hull and still fit the
MAXPROP.
Drivesaver: At the suggestion of Lee Cherubini, I included a "Drivesaver" in the installation. This is a
plastic disk in the middle of the coupling to absorb the shocks of the propeller flipping into action. This
would be equally appropriate in an Offshore 40 installation.
Access: I did this project when I had the engine out and when the fuel tank was out and being replaced.
That vastly simplified access to the remove the stuffing box and things like that.
The new propeller enabled higher speeds, and I did not fully appreciate the impact of this on fuel
consumption until I read some of the calculations in Arthur Beiser's fine book, THE PROPER YACHT
(second ed.). He explains that fuel consumption is related to power requirements. As the boat is pushed
faster, the wave resistance goes up much faster, and fuel consumption goes up. According to his
calculations, the fuel needs for a boat fairly similar to ours through calm water, without headwind, are
something like this:
Speed
knots
Gal./hr
5.5
6.5
.42
.97
Miles/Gal
12.8
6.9
Max Range (40 gal)
Miles
512
276
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7.0
1.44
4.9
196
Actual data, reported by John Paradis is close to these models:
5.0
6.0
.62
.75
8.06
8.0
On top of this, fuel is used to generate electricity and run the refrigeration. I am not sure about the
incremental impact on fuel consumption and corresponding reduction in range.
Whatever the precise numbers, it is clear that the range can be extended substantially by motoring in the
5.0-5.5 knot range. Conversely, the range is much reduced above the mid 6's. This helps me understand
why we almost ran out of fuel after motoring at high speed down the Delaware River and Bay,
celebrating our new propeller until I checked the fuel gauge. Thank God for Cape May.
Heater
Our sisterships are using many different types of heating systems, several fired by diesel and
incorporating hot water lines or air ducts. Here is the report:
From Sweden, Lennart Konigson has installed a diesel/hot water system on ROBUST. He writes:
Given the climate here and in Norway where we do a lot of our cruising we needed heat in the boat.
After checking all the different heaters that existed on the market I chose a diesel heater with a hot water
circulating system and five heat exchangers in different parts of the boat. The heater is of a
Swedish/Danish design originally made for fishing boats. It needs no electric power except for a very
small water circulating pump. It can be left burning for weeks if you keep the boat in the water over the
winter which I did last year. It tolerates virtually any kind of weather and very rough seas which we
experienced when we cruised in the northern part of Norway some years ago. It comes with or without a
circulating water system.
The stove is called Glembring is made here in Gothenburg. I'll be happy to send you more details if
anybody would be interested. I have mounted it just forward of the galley where it fits in very nicely.
The fuel is drawn from the main fuel tank to a 10 l holding tank mounted in the cupboard immediately
forward of the galley stove and inside of the heater.
On FOLKSONG, Betsy and Dan Van Winkle report that an Esbar heater works wonderfully well to keep
the boat warm and cozy. The Esbar burns diesel fuel, uses glow plug ignition, and has an electric fan to
distribute the hot air. It is thermostatically controlled, so the boat maintains a constant temperature. The
unit is installed in the port cockpit sail trap and takes fuel directly from fuel tank. An air duct leads
forward on the port side, and has adjustable air ducts to grills under the aft port berth, head, main cabin
seat, and port forward berth. Practical Sailor (September 1997) has a fairly detailed discussion about the
maintenance requirements of these types of units, which should be reviewed by anyone contemplating
such an installation. The article suggests that if you want this type of forced air system, Webasto (248545-8770) should definitely be considered as an alternative to Esbar.
On PEGASUS, Gary Stephens has installed a Wallas (from Finland) forced air system (12,000 btu). The
unit is installed in the back of the port sail trap. He reports it has required twice yearly maintenance,
between $20-140 dollars, which he says is less less than expected maintenance for Espar or Webasto. It
is distributed by Scan Marine Equipment, 2144 West Lake Ave. N, Suite D, Seattle WA 98190, tel: 206285-3675.
HEART STRING, which cruises a lot in Nova Scotia, has a pot bellied stove, found in New Hampshire
used stove shop, on the bulkhead in front of the table. The table had to be shortened to give adequate
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clearance for the stove. Frank Hamilton says his wife considers this the best improvement on the boat.
She told me that it burns some combination of charcoal, wood, and coal, and requires careful tending.
Care is needed to ensure a proper draw up the chimney because the stove uses air from the cabin for
combustion purposes. The dodger can create a low pressure area in the cabin, which would retain smoke
below, so the chimney vent must be properly turned away from the wind, and often the companionway
must be closed for the smoke to go up. A load of fuel does not last through the night; Frank, not his wife,
has the early morning job of re-lighting the fire when needed. The photo section shows the handsome
installation.
Bob Sundman (GABRIELLE) modified the settee to a "L" configuration by eliminating the forward
athwartship portion of the settee. This gave room for a cabin heater, as well as an additional mast support
post directly under the mast.
BRIES has a diesel heater (perhaps Antarctica) located in this same position, replacing the front seats of
the main cabin dinette.
KEI LII has a kerosene heater attached to the mast support pipe, hanging over the table.
ROBUST has a Swedish made diesel heater that heats a water/anti-freeze mixture that circulates through
five radiators in the three cabins.
SISKIWIT, which sailed on Lake Superior for some years, has a Balmar balance air diesel cabin heater
with bellows fuel pump.
CHALLENGE has a very nice heater installation utilizing a "High Seas" heater, apparently no longer
made. It is a diesel fueled heater and very thin, only 4-5". It is installed on the bulkhead forming the
back rest of the front seat of the table. The heater is so thin that it is no thicker than the cushion, so it
really takes no room at all (it replaces a portion of the cushion.) Even though it is thin, it has a heat shield
so one can touch it without being burned. I don't see anything in the catalogs now that is so thin as the one
on CHALLENGE. Fuel comes from the main fuel tank. An electrical fuel pump has been added near the
fuel tank and a T (with valve) has been added, and an fuel line has been led forward for the heater.
On TALARA, there is a thicker heater mounted higher, so head bumps are a problem. Al Johnson reports
that even though it is mounted high, it does a good job of heating the space.
I am experimenting with a large metal funnel placed above a stove burner, with a 1 1/4" flexible exhaust
pipe (see McMaster-Carr catalogue, discussed below in section on special parts) going through the dorade
ventilator above the stove. I put in a fuel fill deck plate with 1 1/2" pipe threads on the top of the dorade
box. When I want heat, I screw 1 1/2" pipes into the deck fitting from top and bottom. (I got a fairly
long pipe nipple, so by cutting in the right place, I ended up with two short pipes, already threaded.) The
top pipe has a chimney cap welded on, which had started its life as a stainless steel soup ladle. Then I
slip the flexible exhaust pipe onto the funnel and lead it through the pipes. (See sketch in Annex 15)
This heater is for winter maintenance and for spring and fall nights and mornings at anchor, not for use
under sail, not for cruising in Alasaka or Norway. It is cheap, removable, and unobtrusive. It doesn't
permanently commit valuable space to something that is used infrequently. Except when it is in use, the
funnel and exhaust pipe will be stowed in the back of a locker. I started this experiment with a
galvanized funnel, but the galvanizing does not hold up at the temperatures involved. It just flaked and
peeled off the funnel. I am now scraping and sanding off the last traces of zinc, wondering when my steel
funnel will rust, and if I can find or will have fabricated a stainless steel or brass funnel.
It looks to me that another option would be an LPG catalytic heater made by Thermal Systems (360-3520539). They have small unit that probably could go on the front bulkhead of the main cabin, high up
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enough so that it would not interfere with seating but angled down to radiate heat into living space. It
runs coolly enough to need little clearance space. If my funnel experiment doesn't work, this looks like a
good option for infrequent use.
Dodgers
The three-cabin configuration with a companionway on the side and forward presents some challenges
for designing dodgers. Many sisterships have come up with solutions.
One of the most elaborate solutions is on ROBUST, which cruises in Scandinavian waters. Lennart
Konigson describes his dual sprayhood system, photos of which are in the website:
There are really two sprayhoods or perhaps better - one big sprayhood covering the width of the
cockpit and a small dodger over the entrance. They are joined by a zipper when the big
sprayhood is in use. The big sprayhood can then be folded across the deckhouse roof in front of
the small dodger.
Each sprayhood has a double frame joined at the foot. The frames of the big sprayhood run on a
thin aluminum pipe fastened on deck. This allows the frames to be pushed forward of the small
dodger for storage. Folding or unfolding the big sprayhood is a split second job.
Dimensioning and bending the frames was quite an exercise. They have to be high enough so
that you can reach the entrance without a backbreaking crawl, yet low enough so that one can
see across the top when sailing or motoring. The frames also have to be shaped so that they
follow the profile of the deckhouse roof when folded. I spent the better part of a day running
back and forth between the cockpit and the pipebending tool before I was satisfied. The frames
are made of aluminum but they have proven strong enough.
Gary Stephens similarly has a dodger that goes across the whole cabin top that can unzip and detach to
permit access to the main companionway. It does not give complete shelter to the forward
companionway. The website has many photographs of Gary’s dodger.
We also got our new dodger for our 3 cabin (2 companionway) PEGASUS. All the local OS 40's
owners have seen it and all want one like it. It runs clear across the whole cabin top. The
forward edge is attached to the cabin top in front of the aft turtle and goes across the back 6
inches of the forward hatch. It spans the hatch with a stainless tube (7/8), the dodger hooks to
that with velcro, the bridge ends are mounted on the turtle and the port forward edge of the
coaming. We can unzip the dodger down the middle, take out the stainless tube and enter the
forward hatch from aft, or when sailing we can step around the dodger, slide the hatch open and
go down below, without losing the wind, rain, spray, protection of an open dodger. To top it off
the dodger looks good, like every other boat that only has one companionway.
Frank Hamilton has built two dodgers on HEART STRING. (see photos) The aft one is quite large and
shelters the front end of the cockpit. It slightly obstructs the port jib winch, but it is possible to ratchet the
winch from the back side. It is easy to unsnap the side of the dodger to get better access to the winch.
This large dodger sense for the Nova Scotia cruising Frank does. The photo section shows how he did it.
He used 7/8" stainless tubing, and recommends that 1" tubing be used instead for more rigidity.
RUSALKA has a similar set-up. (see photo).
SEACALL has two dodgers, one for each companionway. Don Sparks reports that they work well to
keep the cabin dry and airy, especially in spray and rain. The aft dodger gives a bit of extra protection
against spray in the front of the cockpit, but does not give real shelter. A standing helmsman has no
problem seeing over them. There is a slight interference in furling the mainsail, but not too serious. The
dodgers do restrict the size of a dinghy that can be carried on deck.
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On FOLKSONG, Dan and Betsy Van Winkle have an especially elaborate dodger arrangement. They
have a small dodger for the main companionway and a rather large one for the aft companionway. In
addition, for very rainy days, they have an extra piece of canvas that can be zipped on to both of them to
form a tunnel from the main cabin.
ANTARES has a dodger across the aft companionway/cabin top to give some shelter to the bridge deck
area.
FEMME also has a full dodger. Since she has a center companionway, the design is not complicated by
the side deck on most of the sisterships. (see photo and sketches in Annex 14) John Paradis offeres these
additional comments:
My experience with dodgers is that they should extend at least far enough aft to insure drips
from the aft edge fall aft of the hatch opening.
On FEMME the dodger comes aft far enough to fit 3 inches in under the front edge of the bimini
so when they are both up rain and spray don't enter the cockpit area when the boat is anchored or
moored. Some rain, but very little spray may come in when under way from the wind.
Another consideration is the width of the dodger. FEMME has the center hatch opening with
dorades on each side of the hatch. The dodger is mounted outside of the dorades and attached on
top of the horizondal piece at the forward end of the cockpit sides. This means that the dodger is
at least as wide as the cockpit with the dodger side pieces coming down at about 45 degs to be
fastened on the outside of the cockpit coaming. The aft edge of the dodger comes about 3-4
inches aft of the plane of the lifeline stantions at the aft edge of the gates. The forward edge of
the bimini is supported by a bow attached to these stantions. The overlap and the width are keys
to the success of my dodger. At anchor its like another room where we can take off our wet suits
and hang them in the cockpit to dry in rain. Underway, we are well protected from bow spray.
Tim Litvin offeres these suggestions on dodger design:
The dodger on SALA-MA-SOND extends back to the aft edge of the bridge deck, by
recommendation of my dodger-maker. I had originally drawn it to extend to a point between the
bridge deck and the helm, but I was convinced that this would inhibit movement somewhat and
the added protection would be negligible. We've had some blustery sails this summer and the
dodger is a delightful increase in comfort. I strongly suggest that you consider hand rails on
your dodger. Without them, the dodger is a big obstruction between the cockpit and the cabintop hand rails.
A couple more rules of thumb sprung to mind that I thought
might be helpful, if not obvious (they weren't obvious to me). The two
bowed tubes should probably be bent to the same shape so that, when folded, they collapse
together. The forward bowed tube will protrude out at about a 90 degree angle from the aft
bowed tube. Given that you want the top of the dodger to be level, you should now have the
necessary and sufficient guidelines/constraints for the lengths and angles of the bowed tubes for
a unique, optimum solution. This should yield enough information for you to determine exactly
where the fittings go (be sure to measure for symmetry...
it's easy to fool yourself).
The fittings most dodgers employ nowadays use set screws to secure the tubes (they're not very
secure). Alternately, you can simultaneously drill out the bracket and its mating tube and fasten
with SS pop rivets. For fittings that you may want to disassemble, you can use set screws with a
pointed end and a small hole in the tube for extra security.
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Similarly there are innumerable details of working the canvas. The big one: leave clearance for
winch handles in the side curtains. Also, avoid bending the fabric across a hard corner; a wrinkle
will likely form there. Zipper the dodger so that it can be taken off easily: Sala is zippered
underneath after wrapping around the trailing edge of the aft bowed tube. Sunbrella is the most
common fabric for dodgers; they offer their standard and a waterproof grade. Gore-Tex is
another high-end option. The stitching is where many dodgers fail: Gore-Tex thread ($) is the
thread of choice for longevity. Don't forget to buy enough fabric to make covers for your
windows as well.
On windows, you can have them all permanent, zip-up or zip-down... or zip sideways or zip-out,
I suppose. Sala-ma-Sond has a large single center window that zips up to let those warm tropical
breezes of my not-too-distant-future blow through. The trailing edge of the dodger also has a
zipper with flap to attach a bimini... though I don't know how I'll support the aft end of that
canvas just yet.
There's more, but this ought to be enough to keep you out of trouble for a while. When I think
about the myriad details of my dodger design, it was a great comfort to be working with
someone who knew both the standard options and the tricks of the trade. I would not have gotten
it right by myself the first time around and it may have cost me more in replacement materials
than I spent for a professional. I hope, with all the tips you're no doubt getting and the reference
designs you've got, that yours goes smoothly.
Just one other thought about dodger proportions that might help to set your mind at ease. It
doesn't all happen at once; the frame precedes the canvas and this is where a lot of the aesthetics
happen. You can play with different parameters on the frame before you commit to anything by
temporarily securing/lashing the various pieces to one another. You may require another pair of
hands to move and hold things while you step back and eyeball the lines you are creating.
Running a line along the top between the two bowed tubes and then down to the cabin top will
give you a pretty good idea of the general shape. Usually the leading window area is raked back
about the same or a little more than the leading edge of the cabin, but not so much as to inhibit
easy entry to the companionway. And again usually the sides of the dodger are roughly parallel
to, or slightly canted inward of, the cabin sides. Take measurements and mark the tubes for
bracket positions. Best of luck!
Sig Baardsen offers these ideas:
Tom Litvin has got it right. Hand rails on the outside of the dodger are an absolute must. I
made mine telescoping in 3 parts with heavy setscrews for easy adjustment and removal.
Our original dodger ended just at the edge of the bridgedeck and gave insufficient protection for
the helmsman. First I moved the binnacle and wheel forward 10 inches and moved the primary
winches aft 20 inches. That helped some and made the boat much easier to singlehand.
The tricabin arrangement makes a real challenge of fitting a dodger. Our old dodger went
forward of the off set main hatch. That meant that we had to bend double to get in and out,
through what we called "the Tunnel." All that stooping and bending was terrible on our backs.
I took the dodger off and moved it aft so that it began 4 inches abaft the offset main hatch.
It now extends aft of the bridgedeck by 22 inches. It now gives wonderful protection. When we
stand with our back against the binnacle the aft edge of the dodger is just about nose level and 8
inches away from our face. The span between the bows is 6 Ft. Yes, it does interfere with
getting forward, particularly with the running backstays in place.
A refinement is the addition of a removable, square tailflap that fastens temporarily to the aft
edge of the dodger and extends aft to the mizzen rigging. (That mizzen must be good for
something) Without a mizzen, simply sew in a batten across the back and tie the batten to the
backstay.The tailflap is fitted with removable sidecurtains with windows. It's lovely to be
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inside, warm and dry, while the rain pounds down. It works just fine under sail, but it disturbs
the wind for the windvane. We smugly call it "the Palm Court". We love it. The winches are
accommodated with half pockets and the bottom edge of the halfpockets have sewn in copper
tube stiffeners, shaped like the Greek letter Omega. A drawstring running through a casing and
through the copper tube omegas helps hold the edges down.
The most difficult part was designing the forward coaming for the dodger to fasten to. I ended
up making a coaming of foam and fiberglass, 4" high by 1 1/2" thick with a "Tophat" cross
section. The flanges of the coaming (brim of the tophat) are fastened down to the cabintop with
silicone and sheetmetal screws for easy removal. One of the other boats has a stainless bar
across the aft end of the main hatch for the dodger to fasten to. This leaves a gap for water. I
made a fiberglass bridge cum coaming with a gutter in to carry off the water that collects on the
housetop. The system is quite watertight. I have photos of the dodger but it will be quite some
time till we are in a place where they can be developed and sent to you. It seemed like a simple
job but it took all winter.
Construction
Electrical conduit is cheap and easy to work with when making mock-ups.
Sunbrella is lovely stuff and good to work with but after two years it is no longer waterproof.
Sailrite Inc. sells a material to spray on to restore the waterproof. Thompsons Waterseal also
works but it discolors the material. We prefer white vinyl covered nylon. That is the material
ships' hatch covers and lifeboat covers and truck tarps are made of. It's cheaper and lasts longer
and is waterproof. It comes wide enough so you can avoid center seams. Camping supply
houses sell stuff to waterproof tent seams and that works fine. We use Capt Tolleys Creeping
Crack Cure or Liquid Boatlife on the seams. The down side is it does not stretch to compensate
for a sloppy fit. It is difficult to get a stylish drum-tight fit. It doesn't look yachty but we are at
an age where we'd rather be dry than pretty.
Design. Naval architects design doghouses so the roof line projected intersects the stem. Our old
dodger was level and looked boxy. Now it is slightly higher at the aft end and looks much
better. We got the idea from Thai fishing boats. Their houses are raked forward and look great.
It is important to make mock-ups not only for aesthetic considerations but also to find out if you
can live with the beast. We lived for weeks with mock-ups to find out if we could live with the
obstructions. We are so pleased with the dodger moved aft that a hard dodger is under
consideration.
Bimini
The photograph Thatcher Lord sent of TRINKA shows a bimini to give shade. (See photo section)
Thatcher feels this type of bimini is essential in the Caribbean for long-term live-aboard and sailing. He
finds sailing in the shade a delightful experience.
The main support for his bimini is fastened to the lifeline stanchions between the genoa and spinnaker
winches. The pipes go up first so they will not obstruct winch handles, and then have sections angled
forward and aft. This means that the bimini is the full width of the boat. It is braced forward and aft with
lines, so is quite sturdy. It is left up virtually all the time, but can be folded backwards without interfering
with the main sheet. Clearly, Thatcher has put a lot of thought into this installation. I hope he can
provide sketches with dimensions for the pipes, so that anyone could replicate it.
Presumably, some thought must go into the design of the height of the bimini and steps needed to
minimize interference with the main boom. Probably care must be taken when lowering the sail that the
boom not come too low. I wonder if the foot of the sail should be re-cut to keep the boom up a bit.
SERENDIPITY has a larger bimini. It extends back to the mizzen mast. (See photos) The main sheet has
been moved to the mid-boom position, on a traveller across the main cabin top. The bimini can fold
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forward in front of the companionway. It looks as though the aft pipe is detached from its operating
position and attached to a bracket on the forward pipe so that it folds forward enough. There are extra
panels that attach to the bimini and drop down and are secured with twist-lock fittings on the coaming,
Note that this boat has the two-cabin layout and the single, centered companionway, and this affects the
design of the bimini.
SERAPHIM has a larger bimini, reaching over the bridge deck and perhaps linked with covers to the aft
companionway. (see photo).
FEMME's bimini is supported on 3 pipe frames which attach to the lifeline stanchions with hose clamps.
(see sketches Annex 14)
Opening Ports
Our standard boat came with fixed ports, except there were two aluminum framed opening ports, the port
side of the forward cabin and in the head. The aluminum frames deteriorated quickly and we replaced
them in a few years. I know that some boats (such as SHIBUI) were ordered with many more opening
ports.
John Bartlett (DRAGON LADY) had a set of stainless steel opening ports custom made to fit his (and
our) dimensions. Through a friend, he found a company in Taiwan that was in this business. He may be
able to find the name and address of the company if anyone is interested. They charged far less than
normal retail price for the ports. For DESTINY, Dave Cherubini will be able to use the special opening
ports that are used for the Cherubini 44s and 48s. I have no idea if people with other surnames can
purchase them. Nick Maddalena (KEA LII) reports that Cheoy Lee can supply opening ports also.
Check the address below on the section on Special Parts. Frank Hamilton used opening ports made by
Vetus.
Dvid Epstein reports that a standard porthole will fit with minimal modifications.
NEW FOUND METALS, INC
240 Airport Rd.
Port Townsend, Wa. 98368
nfm@olypen.com
www.newfoundmetals.com
Telephone (360) 385-3315 1(888) 437-5512 Fax(360) 385-6097
Dave offers considerable detail on this project:
I have had the chance to put Scotty Richardson up on Calypso at the Annapolis boat show due to
the fact he had no housing to stay at. He is the marketing and salesman for Newfound metals. I
have ordered about 14 port lights in the new stainless steel and he has given me some great
prices. He will not discount to most people but I think letting him sleep on the boat for free
helped him change his mind for me. The 7 X 14 with the extended spigot (2 inches) is the most
common port we use and can be installed by removing 1 inch from the top of our existing
openings. We also have two small cutouts in the bottom side and drill a bunch of holes and
counter sink them. All in all it took about an hour to make the cutouts and 1 hour to drill the
holes, and I was using a coping saw as my boat is kept on a mooring with no power. The
stainless is much easier to maintain and looks great.
I would not bed them with 5200; instead use either 4200 or dolfinite. Compared to other brands
the prices for the products are great and the installation is a breeze, not to mention the breeze
you can get with the ports open.
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The trim rings are removed from the outside of the cabin sides and a new ring installed which is
an integral part of the portlight from Newfound metals. The inner trim screw through the cabin
side into the trim ring making a sandwich of the whole setup which is much nicer then some of
the other ports I have seen. The tighter you snug them the better they seal. The 7 X 14 are
slightly larger that our existing ports so the new trim covers our the old installation quite well.
I'll try to get a discount extended to all in our group.
For SISKIWIT Henry Young got the same opening ports 7x14 from ABI. They made custom stainless
rings for the two large ports in the main cabin. Ten years later and still no leaks.
Dave Brooks has replaced ports on GALATEA with new ones from Hood.
http://www.pompanette.com/pompweb.nsf/pages/hoodmain
LA EMBRA has replaced the teak trim surrounding the ports with metal (brass? bronze) rectangles, that
look quite good.
On DESTINY and TRINKA, the port facing forward at the front of the cabin top was removed and
covered over. Both owners judged that a glass port at that location was too vulnerable to breakage from
heavy seas breaking over the bow. On TRINKA, the front of the cabin top has been re-surfaced with
wood. On DESTINY, the cabin sides are now fiberglass.
Air Conditioning
On DRAGON LADY, John Bartlett has installed a Marine Air air conditioning unit to cope with the heat
of the Texas Gulf coast. The compressor is located between the Vee berths (instead of the forward
head). Refrigerant hoses go to evaporators in the aft and forward cabins, from which cold air is blown
into the aft, main, and forward cabin. The system is AC powered, using electricity generated on board, as
described below.
KANARIS uses shore-powered air conditioning. Andreas Sarris described the system:
In Houston air conditioning is a necessity, rather than an option. It is needed not only for
comfort, but also to keep the boat from molding out. On my Offshore 40 the air conditioner is
installed under the port side ladder and has an oulet in the port quarterberth and in the forward
side of the wet locker. It is shore-power only and runs 24 hours a day about 7 months a year.
It is a Cruise Air water cooled marine unit and sits under the ladder, enclosed in a formica box.
One air duct connects it to the locker aft of the portside bulkhead; another duct goes directly
from the box though the outer wall of the wet locker and then up to the forward wall of that
locker over the galley counter. The exits are prefabricated teak trim. The control unit is in the
aft cabin locker and the face is on the portside wall.
The water intake is a separate through-hull in the bilge, the pump is to the starboard of the gray
water tank and the water outlet is with a through-hull from the wet locker.
The water condensate from it goes to the gray water tank. When this overflows it goes to the
bilge, and then with an automatic bilge pump out. Ben's idea about an automatic switch of the
gray-water tank sounds great. Perhaps I will ask him for the wiring diagram.
It works great, I spend weekends on the boat (under an awning) and it is easily 72-76 F inside.
The cooling is great in the aft and main cabins, not so good in the v-berth, but I circulate some
air there with a 120V AC fan (when in dock). It also keeps the boat dry.
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Now with the refrigerator, its compressor, the air-conditioning system, the ice box and the
muffler all in the port-side (estimate 200 lbs), I have noticed a few degrees listing (from
distance) to port. I will put some lead ballast on the starboard side of the boat to balance her out,
but I have not done it yet.
SHENANDOAH also has a heat pump/heater-air conditioner, that is run on the ship's AC generator.
On WINDSPRINT III, there is a heat pump under the aft seat of the main cabin settee, replacing the
drawers. Vents go through the head to the aft cabin (above the berth), to the forward main cabin seat, and
to the forward cabin. In the aft seat by the unit is the return air intake. Through-hull fittings in that area
provide cooling water. The unit works on 110 volts, and in this installation is used only at dockside.
AC Power
DRAGON LADY has a Northern Lights 5 KW AC generator. It is installed in a box that goes under the
companionway and extends through a cutout in the bulkhead into the aft hanging locker. John Bartlett
uses the generator to power an electric stove, microwave oven, water heater, and air conditioner. He
normally does not use the generator when he is sailing, but when he comes into port and it is time to cook
dinner (and cool off the cabin), he turns it on.
SHENANDOAH has a Balmar 6 KW AC generator in the starboard sail trap. It runs the air handling
system, electric refrigerator, and ice maker. Bob Mallers says it is very quiet and works well. Needless
to say, he can't put much else in the sail trap.
Many boats have inverters. WINDERESS has a very large, 2 KW system, that can power its refrigerator.
Thatcher Lord finds the ProWatt 800 watts fully adequate for all electric tools (and his coffee grinder).
Statpower is introducing a 600 watt inverter that will probably do the job at half the price.
Solar Charging
Solar chargers obviously are neat, but where can they be installed? Gary Stephens (PEGASUS) has
installed two large solar chargers (85 watts each, 170 watts total = 16 amps), stretched between the stern
pulpit and the last lifeline stanchion. There are brackets that tilt so he can adjust the angle of the plate to
the sun. This system provides a very substantial amount of power.
To secure the front ends to the stanchion, Gary got some stainless tubing that would fit over the
stanchion, and then cut slots in it so it could slide down over the lifelines. (see photos). The brackets are
at the edge of the panel so that the panel does not bump into the mizzen shrouds. His photos show the
first design (bracket in the middle) that did bump into the shrouds, and his revised design (brackets at top)
that solved the problem. He uses a sail batten to adjust the angle of the panel to the sun.
ROBUST has two solar panels mounted on top of the main hatch cover. Lennart reports,
The solar panel is made by Solarex, which is distributed by Atlantic Solar Products. You can
find them under www.atlanticsolar.com. The panel I bought was MSX20L. Two of those fitted
perfectly to the hatch cover after I had shaved off a little bit of the edge. They can be walked
upon with no problem.
My own solar charger is a minimal 11 watt (1 amp) flexible charger, that I tie to the cabin top. The wire
comes through the open head porthole. In winter, it ties to the winter cover (on the southern exposure). It
doesn't really charge the batteries, but it prevents them from discharging when the boat is not in use, both
in summer and winter.
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Dinghy and Davits
Originally we had a Cheoy Lee sailing dinghy, which fit on the cabin top and was great fun. One season,
however, it swamped twice, and my father decided it did not have enough carrying capacity and was too
dangerous. He replaced it with a 9' Avon RedCrest. This had somewhat more capacity. It was wet and
uncomfortable, but it never swamped and never felt fundamentally unsafe. It fit snugly on the cabin top,
minimally interfering with the main companionway. On balance, I have felt it has made an excellent
tender.
With our Avon 22 years old and showing serious signs of wear, we made a big move in 1998. We got an
Achilles 10 foot inflatable, with an inflatable floor. We very much appreciate its larger capacity and it
tows well. It won't stow on deck inflated, but it deflates and rolls up into a reasonable package easily.
FEMME carries the original Cheoy Lee dinghy on the foredeck. It is hoisted and lowered easily with a
sling on the spinnaker halyard and the anchor winch. (see photos)
Bill Heron on CAPELLA uses davits for his 9 1/2' inflatable dinghy with a 10 hp outboard. He has
stainless steel davits (maybe made by Ocean Marine Systems, 800-883-2848). They are bolted to the
deck just in front of the two stanchions of the stern pulpit. Several adjustments are needed:
To get the dinghy high enough so that it cleared waves and wake, the davits had to be extended about a
foot higher than the stock length.
His mizzen gooseneck has been raised to the level of the main boom, perhaps 8"-12" up. Presumably the
mizzen had to be cut to fit.
An extra bail has been added to the mizzen boom, so that the mizzen sheet is closer inboard and does not
interfere with the raised dinghy.
A final modification is that the stern running light has been moved to the mizzen mast, a few inches
below the mizzen boom.
When at sea, Bill ties the dinghy carefully to prevent both sideways and fore-aft movement. However,
when in harbor near docks, he likes to release the extra lines so that there is more flexibility if he nudges
into a dock or pile. He finds the arrangement works well.
SERENDIPITY also has dinghy davits, which can be seen in the photo section. Al Roosov reports that to
prevent the dinghy from swinging, the trick is to put 4 attachment points for the hoist on the dinghy floor.
Then he can pull it high, right up against the davits. He also ties it to the stern rail. For the mizzen sheet,
Al has a rope bridle attached to the davits, and has a snap shackle in the sheet block to shift it from one to
another location.
For offshore sailing, Al lifts uses the mizzen halyard to lift the dinghy above the davits. He then flips it
upside down and puts it on top of the davits. Al keeps an inflatable dinghy rolled up inside the hard
dinghy. This gets the dinghy high enough to be carried safely at sea. Al has a couple of bolt holes in the
transom of the dinghy where he attaches his stern light when the dinghy is in this elevated position.
Jack McCormick has just removed davits from OWL to enable installation of a self steering system, and
also because he found that off shore the dinghy was swinging around a lot and banging into the boat.
Both the dinghy and the stern of the boat were getting damaged.
Interior Decor
The interior decor of the sisterships started out with some differences and have continued to diverge with
the tastes of different owners. The photo section shows different approaches.
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ASTARTE and MOONGLOW stay quite close to the original appearance. ASTARTE retains the
original holed masonite headliner on the cabin top, but I took it off under the decks, and just sanded and
painted the fiberglass surface white. We have teak varnished locker doors on the shelves above the
bunks.
OWL is highly "orientalized" with special carvings and interesting woodwork. I guess much of this was
done specially when the boat was built. The galley includes a micro-wave oven.
HEART STRING has the cabin sides painted white on the inside, but has put in a varnished wood ceiling
and wood treatment at the back of the main cabin shelf. She also has locker doors on the shelves above
the bunks. The mast support pole is covered with wood.
Thatcher Lord fundamentally changed TRINKA's main cabin, and built an expanded and elaborated
locker/shelf system along the port side. (See photo.) It helped make the boat work better for the liveaboard owners. He also converted the foul weather gear locker into a pantry on the top (with a roll away
cover) and a tool locker on the bottom.
SHUIBUI's interior is the two cabin "E" layout, so it is different (See photo) with some similarities.
There are sliding doors on lockers over the forward bunks. There is lots of varnish, although the cabin
trunk sides are white.
Interior Lighting
In the last two years, I have put in new lights, with both red and white bulbs. I like the red bulbs for night
sailing.
For the overhead lights over the chart table, galley, head, and forward cabin, I have put in dual
incandescent lights.
For the main cabin aft reading light, I have installed two Guest dual tube fluorescent lights. One has red
and white bulbs, while the other has two white bulbs. This means that in white mode, I can have 1, 2, or
3 tubes. This provides a fine light for reading, at reduced current drain. When sailing at night, the single
red tube provides a wonderful low level illumination in the main cabin that lets crew come up, down, and
dress, without harming night vision or using a lot of current.
I have converted reading lights over an aft and forward bunk to halogen bulbs, using Ancor parts in the
West Catalog. This has noticeably improved the illumination for reading.
Doors Latches
On my boat the door knobs/latches are weak. Many internal parts are made of cast brass and they break.
I have made numerous repairs. I finally found a suitable replacement. I am replacing old door latches
with those made by Mobella (813-531-7779). They come from Scandinavia. These locks are used in the
Cherubini boats; Lee Cherubini considers them to be of high quality and durable. They are narrow
enough to fit in the original slot in the door with minimal modification. They are smaller than the
original mortise locks, so I shaped a piece of teak and epoxied it in to fill the voids and provide support
for the new latch. The plates cover almost all the holes in the door. A little carving is needed on the
edge of the door. (When doing this carving, note that the edge of the door is angled a bit, and the latch
must be set at an angle to the edge to be parallel to the door itself.) It is not a perfect, drop-in
replacement, but as these things go, it is a fine solution to this problem. I used the models with locks for
the head doors, and will use models without locks for the forward and aft cabin door.
Cherubini also has used door latches from Merit (215-343-2500).
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Galley:
Stove:
ASTARTE's stove burns LPG. Two 20 lb aluminum horizontal tanks are on the aft deck, enclosed by a
beautiful teak box my father built. (see deck photo) WINDRESS has a similar system, except its tanks
are covered by a canvas cover.
OWL has a safety bar in front of stove and a microwave stove on the bulkhead forward of the stove. (see
photo)
As mentioned above, DRAGON LADY has an electric stove, powered by her AC generator.
SEA CALL has a neat two-piece folding cover for the stove, to create extra counter space very easily.
Refrigerator:
In 1968, we installed an Adler Barbour system with a mechanical compressor on the engine and large
holding plates in the refrigerator. It is still working very well. We have had to replace some of the rubber
hoses, as they became porous. We have to run the engine about 45 minutes a day, which generally
provides enough refrigeration and electricity.
John Paradis designed a similar system for FEMME.
Gary Stephens on PEGASUS feels that 12 volt refrigerator systems are sensible. He installed an Adler
Barbour Super ColdMachine under the very front of the forward vee berths, with hoses coming back to
his refrigerator. He put in some modern high-tech polyurethane-carbon fiber insulation in his
refrigerator, then covered that with 1/2" plywood, fiberglass/epoxy resin, and finally paint. The
refrigerator is a bit smaller, but has much improved insulation. Gary feels that for long passages, one
doesn't really need a large refrigerator, as not much fresh food lasts that long anyway. The refrigerator is
uses primarily to chill beverages. Gary has also installed some large solar panels (totaling 170 watts)
attached to the last lifeline stanchion and the stern pulpit, and these are obviously related to his electric
refrigerator.
On Bryan Johnson’s WINDRESS, there is a large refrigerator installed in what was originally the foul
weather gear locker. The door opens outward, and to provide access, the companionway hinges inward .
(The companionway steps were built or rebuilt more straight, so that when it swings inward, the outboard
side does not hit the original icebox housing. The electric refrigerator is opened only occasionally, and
frozen food is transferred to the regular ice box (which also may be electrical, I’m not sure) for day use.
On OWL, similarly, the foul weather gear locker is used for a freezer.
ROBUST has 12 volt system utilizing the Peltier effect (bimetal) with no moving parts except a small
fan. It has worked very well for more than ten years, with no maintenance whatsoever, and Lennart is
very enthsiastic about it. Lennart had cut the original ice box and its door into two sections, one now a
dry goods locker, the other the small refrigerator. Lennart’s system is presumably the one described in
Practical Sailor, Jan. 15, 1999. This was developed right in Lennart’s Goteborg Sweden. It involves a
large copper thru-hull fitting and copper braided conductor to transfer heat from the refrigerator to the sea
water. It uses around 3-4 amps while cooling, and about 1-2 amps to maintain a cold temperature
(depending on voltage). These systems are distributed in the U.S. by Origo, 1121 Lewis Ave., Sarasota,
FL 34237 (tel: 941-365-3660).
According to an article in Cruising World, February 1999 (p. 90), marine refrigeration companies
including Glacier Bay tel 650-578-0871 and Technautics tel 800-568-8979) can supply custom made
high-vacuum panels 1” or 1 1/2” thick with R values of 20 to 40 or even 50, the equivalent of 4”-6” of
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traditional urethane foam. Improving the insulation of a refrigerator this much can sharply reduce the
energy requirements for the refrigerator by two-thirds.
Stowage:
Thatcher Lord has converted the foul weather gear locker into a pantry on the top and a tool locker on the
bottom.
On ASTARTE has a specially made teak spice rack and paper towel holder, of which I am especially
proud. The paper roll no longer falls into the sink. (see interior photo)
On MARY T, the space under the front dinette seat used to hold a water heater. It has been converted
into a filing cabinet, to hold the paper work inherent in live aboard cruising. There is a little left over
space, which seems destined to hold the lap top computer.
Head
On FOLKSONG, Dan Van Winkle found a full sized toilet bowl that could be bolted on to the standard
marine head. The JABSCO head can come with a house-sized bowl. Maybe Dan got the bowl only as a
spare part. If it did not fit on the head, I can see that it would be not too difficult to adapt the bolt pattern
on the head to receive this bowl.
Thatcher Lord (TRINKA) recommends Lavac heads.
We have used a Lavac head on Trinka and on the boat we owned before that; altogether twelve
years of living aboard and I believe there is no other head to compare with it. It is cleaner and
much less smelly than any other head I've encountered; it is a very simple design and easy to
work on or repair. The only thing you must do is put a vented loop on the intake line or the
vaccume in the bowl can create a siphon.
On FOLKSONG and ASTARTE, there are vertical grab rails in the head, on the door frame between the
doors, to make it easier to get off the seat when on starboard tack.
Forward and Aft Cabins
On many boats the forward head has been removed. I removed it because it was rarely used, wasted
valuable space with little benefit, required winterizing and maintenance, and created potential risks of
underwater plumbing failure. We now use this space to stow a porta-potti, which we use in no-discharge
zones. Other boats use the space for anchor chain, tools, ropes, vegetables, or clothing/bedding stowage.
Some boats (eg. ANTARES, ROBUST) have removed the forward sink, opting for more stowage space.
Patricia Zajac has removed her sink, but she can't decide to use the space for a vanity or a
workbench/vice!
FOLK SONG has in fact removed the sink and converted the space into a work shop. There is a board
instead of the sink, and another board on top that hinges out (and is supported by a hinged bracket on the
bulkhead), so she has a work bench over 1 x 2 feet. The top surfaces have formica to give a smooth,
strong surface. The fixed board has three holes drilled into it for bolting on a vice. In addition, tools are
hung on the forward side of the bulkhead, with a hinged cover that hinds and secures them. The drawers
above and below the sink as well as in the forward port berth, are all devoted to tools, parts, and
maintenance supplies.
ANTARES has restructured the forward bunks to convert into a large double berth. SHIBUI similarly
has a large double berth. (On ASTARTE, we ordered the boat originally with this capability, so I can
give sketches to show how Cheoy Lee made this capability.)
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In BALLERINA, the fore cabin has been modified so that there is a double bunk to port and a seat and
drawers to starboard.
Several boats, as suggested above (ANTARES, ASTARTE, HEART STRING, SHIBUI) have put locker
doors above the side shelves.
SEA CALL has a platform suspended near the ceiling above the feet of the vee berth, for life preserver
stowage.
In the aft cabin, WINDRESS has a full functioning companionway coming down through the aft
passagway. It is made in two parts, the first from the deck to the chart table. The second from the engine
bulkhead to the floor.
In the aft cabin, on SEA CALL, the deck scupper hoses are led through the aft shelves and then aft below
the shelves, so the hoses do not interfere with use of the shelves.
Water Heater
We put in a hot water heater the first year we had the boat. The boat originally came with the engine
fresh water cooling lines coming in and out towards a planned hot water heater under the aft starboard
bunk.
My father thought that space was too valuable to use for this purpose, so he ran hoses forward, through
the aft hanging locker, through the compartment under the companionway, into the bilge just forward of
the aft mast support column. He used a pretty large diameter hose (1" I think), and worried if the engine
water pump would be able to pump through the hoses without an extra assist. The answer is that the
engine pump has adequate capacity for this application.
He then got a stainless steel water melon shaped tank (maybe used for compressed air by auto service
people to pump up flat tires). He had the tank modified and was able to fit onto it both a heat exchanger
and an electrical heating element (which we never use). We also covered it with fiberglass insulation and
a layer of fiberglass cloth to protect the insulation.
The tank nestles nicely into the bilge and holds about 7 gallons of hot water. Running the engine 45
minutes warms the water enough to make a reasonable boat shower. If we run the motor for several
hours, the water becomes so hot that it must be carefully mixed with cold water to prevent scalding. If
we have motored into the afternoon on one day, the next morning the shower water is still warm enough
to make a shower feasible. In designing the plumbing, my father put in three valves so that if a leak
develops, the heater can be isolated and engine water circulation can be maintained.
Gary Stephens has a similar set-up on PEGASUS. He installed a 6 gallon Atlantic water heater, almost
square, mounted under the settee next to the forward bulkhead near the passageway. This water heater
has a stainless steel internal tank, which the manufacturer said would work with water makers. Other
types would corrode from the minute amounts of salt sill present in the fresh water made by the reverse
osmosis water makers. Also, it uses one continuous 180 degree bend tube for the engine heating outlets,
so there is less chance of antifreeze leaks. Gary's mechanic advisor said to use 1/4" pipe fittings to
maintain pressure and to restrict water flow volume to reach proper engine running temperature. (I don't
fully understand this, but this is what Gary wrote to me. It would seem to me that the engine thermostat
is already restricting water flow as needed.) Gary uses Sierra anti-freeze in his motor, so that if there is
any crossover of the engine cooling system with the drinking water system, the results will not be fatal.
On WINDIGO, Mark Treat has an Allcraft stainless steel water heater with a 6 gallon round tank, that fits
snugly under the aft port bunk. The drawer under the bunk has been sacrificed to make room for the water
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heater. On ASTARTE, the head inlet through hull/seacock is in this area and would interfere with putting
a water heater in this location. However, on WINDIGO, the head inlet was originally in or was re-located
to the head area, so there is no interference with the water heater. Since it is right next to the engine, the
water gets very hot and holds the heat overnight. Mark is very happy with the system.
John Paradis' FEMME has a hot water heater of unknown brand, located in the bilge in front of the
engine. FEMME is a two cabin boat, with the head and shower forward, so she doesn't have a shower
sump tank in that location. The tank had an electrical element, but John found his shower hot in two
ways! He presumes there was some electrical leak in the system and has disconnected the electrical
wires. It makes water hot enough for coffee.
Water Maker
Brian Johnson's WINDRESS has a water maker. Since he just bought the boat, it is premature for him to
evaluate its functioning, but eventually we can look forward to a report from him on this.
Swimming Ladder
I wonder if anyone has a swimming ladder that is good and convenient. SHENANDOAH has a ladder in
the gate way. This looks fine as a ladder, but also seems to be a major obstruction to the gate when
coming along a dock.
Has anyone installed a folding stainless steel ladder over the transom? Presumably the stern pulpit has to
be modified. What about mizzen rigging? Does it work?
FEMME has a folding ladder that is used for swimming and boarding the dinghy.
We have used an accordion like folding aluminium Sto-a-way ladder at the gate, and that is been
satisfactory. I think they are out of production, and ours is slowly deteriorating. What solutions do you
have?
Lightening Protection
According to BOAT/US insurance analysis, the chance for lightning damage for an auxiliary sail boat is
0.6 percent over a five year period. For our thirty-year old fleet, this would be 3.6 percent chance per
boat. Out of a fleet of 100 sisterships, this would imply that 3-4 would have suffered lightning damage.
So far, I have reports of two lightning strikes out of about 60 boats -- just about what one expect from the
odds.
Tom Lynch reports that WINDSPRINT III was hit by lightening in the summer of 1997. The boat had no
special lightening protection, has the original wooden mast, was at a dock, and was in a fresh water lake
(which provides less grounding ability than salt water). He was not on the boat when it happened (and is
very happy for that). The results:
Destroyed, damaged:
Masthead VHF antenna
Masthead wind sensing unit and cockpit dial
110 volt system:
AC meter
plate over main cabin AC outlet
battery charger
2 hand held VHFs, on charge on AC system
plug where AC power cord plugs into boat
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AC power cord
35 amp AC socket on dock
running lights
cd player (12 volt)
autopilot (autohelm) (12 volt)
Not damaged
hull
rigging
radar
heat pump (air conditioning, heater)
alternator
starter
windless
cockpit instruments (other than wind)
Affected
ground bus bar loosened
It seems that the lightening hit the masthead, came down on shroud(s) to the ship's ground, and found it
easier to get to ground through the AC ground on the dock than through the ship's ground to the (fresh)
water. The good news is that there was no structural or rigging damage. If the boat had been in salt
water, maybe the lightening would have gone through the keel bolts to ground with even less damage.
John Paradis' FEMME also has been hit by lightning. The lightening evidently came down the mast
wires, because the wiring inside the mast switch box in the starboard sail trap was damaged. The copper
itself was vaporized, and showed up as a copper plating on the inside of the wooden box! The masthead
light and antenna at the top of the mast disappeared.
I might add that I know of another boat that was hit by lighting. This is an “Old” New York 40, with an
enormous wooden mast, so its experience is highly relevant for our wooden masted boats. On this boat,
the bolt destroyed the masthead light, came down the electrical wiring, and caused extensive damage to
electrical wiring and electronics.
These three stories make me believe that lighting is not totally random and unpredictable. In all three
cases, lightning hit the highest piece of metal that was grounded, and went through the wires, trying to get
to ground. It looks like the “path of least resistance” or the “lazy” hypothesis works again!
Can the boat be protected better against lightening? Obviously, the grounding of one chainplate to the
keel (Cheoy Lee's original attempt for ASTARTE) is better than nothing, but is very minimal. In at least
one boat (DESTINY), the grounding strap has sharp bends and is dangerously close to the metal propane
stove.
John Paradis has a sharply pointed 1/8" rod about 12" long at the top of the mast, grounded through a
backstay to the water by a heavy trailing wire, that is left overboard AT ALL TIMES. He thinks this will
give electricity the shortest, safest, most direct path to ground. (Sketch in Annex 14.)
It is possible to have heavy jumper cables that can be snapped onto shrouds and dropped overboard. As
all the other ideas, there seems no way to guess the positive value of this, but it probably wouldn't hurt.
John disagrees with efforts to direct heavy bolts of electricity through the boat to the keel. I am
somewhat conservative on this point, and I am currently planning to ground all chain plates to the keel.
The theory that a static dissipator (eg. Forespar or Neverstrike, see also bottle brushes in industrial
catalogs) seems sensible, but actually is controversal. Some fear that if a dissipator is hit by lightning, it
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will create problems. Doug Wintermute is thinking of installing one on each mast. John's pointed
lightning uses this theory too.
I have gotten some help in this matter from the Thompson Lightning Protection company in St. Paul MN
(612-455-7661). They supply lightning rods, special wire conductors, and fittings to attach parts
together. They also sent me a copy of relevant standards. They seem very experienced with the practical
issues of lightning protection for boats (not to mention barns).
Based on their recommendations and components, my current plan is to try to lead a heavy copper
conductor through the mast and put a lightning rod on top. I will lead the conductor through the cabin
top, forward to the bulkhead, and down the front of the bulkhead. It will be grounded either to a keel bolt
or to a long lag bolt, long enough to go through the fiberglass and into the lead ballast. Offshore 40s with
internal ballast would need to put a copper plate on the side of the boat -- about 1-2 square feet. I will
also ground chainplates, bobstay fitting, and back stay chainplates. I probably will try to set up a similar
protection on the mizzen mast, with the down conductor ultimately led forward to the keel bolts.
I expect to put lightning arrestors on the electrical wires coming down the mast. They will be in close
proximity to the down conductor for about 45 feet, so induction will certainly create current flows in
them that could cause damage.
The engineer at Thompson recommends against use of the stainless steel brush type dissipator. He says
that if/when it is hit by lightning, it disintegrates into a shower of molten steel, that can cause damage to
sails and other parts of a boat.
It is likely that moving to the marlon seacocks reduces the vulnerability to seacocks being blown out by
lightning.
Odds and Ends
ASTARTE has several additional grab rails. The most useful is on the cabin top, to make it easier to
move from the companionway to the cockpit. (See deck photo.) Below decks, we put a vertical grab rail
at the moulding at the front of the head, to help people moving through the cabin towards the
companionway. We also put another one on the bulkhead above the settee (shown in one of the photos),
largely so that people don't lean on and tear the cushion as they reach for the locker in the corner. To
some extent I was moved in this direction by seeing a well placed hand hold on WINDIGO, for the right
hand as one comes up the companionway.
ASTARTE's helmsman's seat has been raised a few inches to improve visibility of the helmsman.
FEMME has a special concave seat that remains comfortable as the boat heels over.
ASTARTE has a drain plug at the bottom of the bilge (visible in the propeller picture). It helps a great
deal in cleaning and flushing the bilge.
ASTARTE's bow and lazaret ventilator cowls have been fitted with baffles to minimize the entry of rain
water into these areas.
HEART STRING has nice canvas work (which Frank Hamilton made), which shows up nicely on the
photos. The canvas hatch covers are secured by light line tied into for screw eyes in the deck. They fit so
well that they don't lift up.
MOONGLOW and OWL have cockpit tables.
OWL has a lot of customizing:
Safety bars around the mast.
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Fixed boom gallows near the aft hatch, which appears to support some sort of awning-bimini.
Engine controls on pedestal.
ROBUST has a stainless steel rail on the coaming opposite the main companionway, to help going up and
down the steps.
SHENANDOAH has:
Safety bars around the mast
Special wooden steering wheel made by Edson
White oak shroud rollers
STORM CONDITIONS
MARY T survived the Queen's Birthday Storm between New Zealand and Fiji June 4-7, 1994, with
winds in the 60-90+ knot range, and waves mostly at spreader height and occasionally near the masthead.
Several boats were capsized and sunk in the storm. MARY T survived. Sigmund and Carol Baardsen
shared their experiences in the Commodore's Bulletin of the Seven Seas Cruising Association, December
1996. Their experience was detailed in Tony Farrington, Rescue in the Pacific (Camden ME:
International Marine, 1996). Also, Lin and Larry Pardy’s book Storm Tactics Handbook draws a great
deal on the epxeriences of the Baardsens.
I will summarize what they learned:
- They were sailing to windward with storm jib and four reefs in the main. (They don’t have a
storm trisail because their mast doesn’t have an extra track) with winds up to 55 knots.
- Running off under bare poles, they made 9-10 knots, and felt manageable and under control!
- Alarming amounts of water entered the boat through the cockpit sail traps. Eventually, these
were sealed better with rags. Minor leaks were found in a back-siphoning bilge pump, which
was easily controlled once discovered.
- ear plugs were helpful for sleeping; ski goggles were helpful for eye protection from driving
spray.
- They spent most of the storm lying with drogues off the stern. The drogues were:
1. 300 feet 3/4" nylon
2. old mizzen, weighted with dinghy anchor, secured by its tack.
3. old mainsail, secured by its tack, on 300 ft 1" nylon and 40 ft. 3/8 chain. This started to
help quite a bit.
The boat was roughly beam to the wind, side slipping, leaving a slick to windward. Motion was
not too severe. MARY T and other boats in the storm found it very difficult to keep the boat
either head to waves or stern to waves.
- Some part of the steering gear broke. (Somewhere in history, the original gear had been
replaced with some undersized unit. It was not an original Cheoy Lee part that failed.) The
rudder hit the propeller blades and bent them, so the engine could not be used for propulsion.
(When the steering had been previously rebuilt, not enough attention had been put on the
quadrant stops. Again, this was not a Cheoy Lee original installation that failed.) The
emergency tiller was used at first, but after two days, the emergency tiller socket wore out and
couldn't hold the rudder. The skipper went overboard and tied a cow hitch through the propeller
aperture; lines were brought up to the winches to secure the rudder. Later, the quadrant was
secured under the cockpit.
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- Crew were thrown around below decks and suffered plenty of bruises but no other injuries.
More handholds were needed. A length of webbing or line stretched across the main cabin
would have helped. In retrospect, Carol feels that on balance, the cabin was reasonably safe.
There are numerous handholds, and the mast support post and table in the middle prevent falls
very far. She feels that a boat with a more open cabin would have been more dangerous in this
regard.
- On other boats more than MARY T, crew members were seriously injured (broken femur, ribs,
etc) during roll-overs or pitch-poling, and this drastically affected how they could cope with the
cope with the storm, particularly when they were short-handed to begin with.
Doug Wintermute experienced a very violent storm between Bermuda and New England in 1984. The
anemometer was pegged at 90 knots for over 12 hours and waves were spreader height. They ran with a
storm jib for a while, and eventually took it off and ran under bare poles. Surfing down the waves was
both exhilarating and terrifying. Steering was tricky, and fortunately they had three helmsmen. Water
entered the boat in many places, and pumping was needed. The storm abated just about the time the crew
was exhausted. Doug reports that a storm of this magnitude is a life-changing experience, forcing one to
rethink priorities. He chose more sailing for many years.
In retrospect, he thinks that for future ocean cruising, he will carry a sea anchor and a drogue, and
perhaps reinforce the rudder.
Pat Zajac has had some "exciting" sailing on her Offshore 40 RUSALKA off the California coast. Once,
while she was sailing about 100 miles west of Monterey, winds were around 35 knots, and seas from the
west were 8-10 feet. However, there were swells from the NW at 15+ feet and only 6-7 second intervals.
And then there were square waves. She took a few knockdowns in these conditions (starting at
midnight). Her Monitor self steerer could not control the boat, so she had to hand steer. She fell off the
wind, but still had swells abeam. She tacked and ran off on the other tack, and this was not so bad.
Experienced ocean sailors with whom she discussed this passage had no clear ideas about dealing with
this type of crossed sea. She has been pooped enough to keep her aft hatch and doors closed.
Lest we draw negative conclusions about our boats from these knockdowns, Pat points out that on the
same coast (with stronger winds and bigger waves) she has also taken knockdowns in a Swan 47 and was
rolled over and dismasted in an Alberg 35.
Lennart Konigson’s excitement came from a collision with a sperm whale in mid Atlantic in 1979. The
whale rose and creating a wave which boarded the boat and went in open hatches!
As I review these stories, I draw these tentative conclusions:
1. The dangers come more from the waves, and from steeply pitched waves, than from the wind. The
level of potential danger should be judged by the waves, not the wind.
2. If a boat rolls over or is pitch-poled, there is a very high likelihood of being dismasted and of crew
members suffering serious injury. This combination of problems is exceedingly serious, especially in a
short-handed boat. Every effort should be made to avoid roll overs or pitch-poling.
3. Running before a storm, without or with drogues, can be effective, but pitch-poling is possible. In the
Farrington book, PILOT pitch-poled while towing drogues and being steered manually. Fatigue is a
limiting factor, and this is linked to the number of good, strong helmsmen.
4. Make-shift drogues (of sails) do not hold position well enough to hold the bow of the boat safely into
the wind. Carol Baardsen is giving very serious thought to buying a proper parachute sea anchor for her
trans Atlantic passage.
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5. These observations point in the direction of a sea anchor off the bow, but in the Farrington book, there
is no report of this tactic being used.
6. In the Farrington reports, even when boats were abandoned under horrible conditions, they floated for
months. Staying on the boat is far safer than going to a life raft unless the boat is definitely sinking (from
plumbing failure, collision, explosion or fire, etc.).
One theory is to have the boat about 50 degrees off the wind, held that way either by heaving to or a sea
anchor, perhaps held by a bridle. The boat should drift downwind at a knot or so. The idea, apparently,
is that the keel will create a slick (turbulence) in the water as it is dragged downwind, and this will
prevent waves from breaking upwind of the boat See Storm Tactics by Larry Pardy.
HEAVING TO
This section is provided by Sigmund Baardsen:
Heaving to is an important skill for both safety and comfort. The technique is underused out of
ignorance. Some, mistakenly, assume that it is only a survival device, or that modern fin keel, spade
rudder boats do not need to, or will not heave to.
It is useful technique for picking up objects or persons in the water, to steady the boat for sextant shots, to
“stop the machine” when the position is unclear, or simply to have a bit of a rest. Traditional boats with
their long keels tend to heave to very well.
I use four methods, depending upon the conditions. The first is the easiest. I simply bring the boat up
onto the wind and trim for speed and balance. I put the helm over and put the bow through the eye of the
wind without shifting the sheets. The boat will come to rest. Experiment a little with the helm, to find
optimum stability and lash it. Whatever sail combination is appropriate for going to windward is also
appropriate for heaving to. When hove to, the boats will stop. The keel will stall. You will see a slick to
windward caused by the tip vortex from the stalled keel. You will be amazed to see big waves, about to
break, hit the slick, flatten out and pass harmlessly under the boat. Use toilet paper or similar to determine
that the slick is streaming directly to windward. If it does not, trim the boat so that it does. In fifty Knots
of wind the boat will side slip about 25 miles per day. Sometimes you can trim to climb slowly 3-5
Degrees Net to windward.
A second technique is a deep reefed main trimmed to drive- not centered and with the helm lashed to
bring the bow down.
A third method with the storm jib flat and the helm lashed to windward.
A Fourth and most unusual technique is to sheet the mizzen flat and lash the helm up (to drive the bow
down). The windage of the bow will balance the mizzen and hold the boat beam to the wind. This last
method I have used in situations where I needed sleep and had to be absolutely certain that the boat would
not sail as I was too close to land and traffic.
Heaving to is terrific for a man overboard situation. Heave to close above the person in the water and
drift slowly down upon them. Use the engine forward and reverse to maintain your position directly to
windward. When you have made contact, stop the engine to avoid propeller danger. The leeward rail will
be low to the water so it will be easier to get the person onboard. The boat will be steady under foot and
safe to move about. There will be no need for a person on the helm and no danger of gibing. You will not
be rolling dangerously as you would be under power alone.
Drogues can be very useful for fine adjusting the attitude of the boat Vis a Vis winds and waves. I have
used variously; old sails, a plastic milk crate, or coils of line. I shift the attachment point of the drogue for
and aft until the boat balances in the most comfortable position. In this case the drogue is not to restrain
the vessel but simply assist with the balance. The stalled keel is doing all the work. In exceptionally big
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waves, one must take care that the bow is not too high or the boat may be pitched backward by a wave
and damage the rudder or steering. All boats are different and you must experiment and practice. It is
great fun.
Storm Oil- As kids we tried vegetable oil to flatten out the afternoon wind chop on our favorite surfing
beaches. It was never much of a success. That is not to say that it does not work. Men far wiser then me
PREPARATIONS FOR OCEAN SAILING
Patricia Zajac is getting RUSALKA ready for a possible single-handed trans-pac in the year 2000. I am
at least fanaticizing Bermuda, if not beyond, so we are both thinking of what preparations are needed for
ocean sailing.
I chatted with Nick Litchfield about how he prepared TAKE FIVE for his circumnavigation. For his
cruise, his crew was his wife and his cat. These were his major modifications:
- strengthened the standing rigging by added intermediate upper shrouds, running backstays, and an inner
fore staysail stay. New chainplates were installed as needed for the extra rigging.
- added gallows frame.
- changed main halyard from wire to wire/rope, and installed slab reefing.
- made canvass covers for hatches.
- added bladder water tanks under aft berths.
- added two extra fuel tanks on inner settees of main cabin.
- added 10 gallon kerosene tank under companionway for stove fuel.
- bonded chainplates, tanks to keel for lightning protections. In addition, had battery cables with large
clamps to attach to shrouds and throw overboard in lightning storms.
- mechanical bilge/deck wash pump.
- refrigerator with mechanical compressor.
- disable pressure water system. (When we tried our trans-Atlantic trip, we changed the plumbing so that
the pressure water system used sea water, and fresh water had to be pumped by hand.)
- installed Aries self steerer and autopilot.
- removed forward sink, converted to work bench. Built narrow locker on bulkhead aft of and above the
former sink as a tool locker.
- downwind twin-jib on single roller furler rig, with two poles.
When we tried to take ASTARTE to Europe in 1969, we did some of these things. In addition, we made
an extra spreader (still living above the forward starboard berth) and had plywood covers in case a
window was broken. We had a crew of six, quite clearly too many, and our innovative self-designed self
steerer did not work.
As I think about the next offshore passage, these are the things on my mind:
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Water tight integrity
- cockpit sail lockers. Obviously, in knockdowns or roll-overs, water can enter the sail lockers in
anywhere between annoying and catastrophic quantities. MARY T's crews pumped and pumped, worried
and worried until they realized water was entering their boat this way.
On MARY T, Sig Baardsen’s key approach to fixing this problem has been to make the seats seal better.
He put tape under the edges, and sanded off the fiberglass lips around the hatches. Then he put a fiberlass
resin fill on the lips and closed the hatches. When it cured, he opened the hatches, cleaned up, and
shaped the fill. The result was that the seats fit very close to the lips.
Pat Zajac says that ordinary weather-stripping has not worked and is planning to use a "Gemline"
refrigerator gasket. The McMaster-Carr catalog offers many types and sizes of weather stripping,
including some an inch wide and a half inch thick. I also noticed thick weather stripping for car doors at
an auto supply store.
As for latches, Sig installed ropes tied to the bottom of the seats, led through holes in the bulkheads to the
aft cabin, to cleats on the aft bulkheads. The ropes are long enough so that when the seat is open, the
extra line can be thrown around a winch to keep the hatch open. Pat Zajac also has lines attached to the
underside of the seats, which can be secured to cleats inside the aft cabin (according to a requirement for
her singlehanded transpac race). On ROBUST, there are shafts that come under the decks, going through
the aft bulkhead into the sail lockers, extending through the panel above the chart table. These shafts
have “U” ends that grab fittings on the bottom sides of the cockpit hatches, locking them from below,
without any hardware in the cockpit. Lennart says that he has also seen locks that can be inserted in the
seats and turned with a winch handle to secure the seats.
Years ago we screwed some pieces of stainless steel onto the inner bottom edge of the seat and the
cockpit sides, so the seats could be locked down. While this discourages weak, lazy burglars, I doubt it is
strong enough to resist heavy pressures. The WEST catalog lists a variety of hold down clamps. If each
sail trap had two of these, and if weather-stripping were put on the sail trap, would this work?
The seat drain tubes should be checked and replaced with larger hoses. I found the marlon hose adapters
could be epoxied in to replace the copper tubes. When I did this, I discovered at least one of my drain
tubes had cracked, presumably because it had a low point that held water in the winter which froze and
expanded. The drain tube had been draining water right to the bilge. The new tube should be installed
with care to insure it has no low spots to collect water. Larger diameter tubes should take water away
from the seats faster. (Pat also replaced the seat drain tubes with larger hoses and less sharp angles on her
boat.)
- cockpit vents. On our Reliant, there are three original clamshell vents and a recently added blower
outlet in the cockpit sides. If the cockpit filled with water, much of it would drain through these vents
into the bilge. I have presumed that under these conditions, I would stuff rags (underwear) into the vents,
and that would seal them pretty well. On Offshore 40s, this vent system has been replaced with a large
ventilator on the aft deck. This would eliminate the risk I face, but I don't know whether this vent is also
vulnerable to flooding or what to do about it. Perhaps a piece of plywood can be placed in its opening, or
a canvas cover can be tied over it.
- windows. I have not heard of windows breaking. When we prepared for ocean sailing years ago, a trip
aborted after a mutiny, we had some plywood boards linked to a cross stick and some bolts with wingnuts
to provide instant replacement if a window broke.
- washboards. The off-center companionway needs to have its washboard in place in heavy weather. I
was amazed last year as we entered Atlantic City Inlet under very moderate conditions that one wave just
138
popped up, over the coaming, and into the companionway. I have not heard of our companionways being
too weak, although mine was partially broken by burglars this summer.
- dorade ventilators. The dorade ventilators can be unscrewed and caps put on. I am making a canvas
cover for the bow ventilator (which can not be easily unscrewed on our boat because of the staysail
boom).
- helmsman's seat locker. The top should have a latch to hold it down. This is not a water-in-the-boat
question, but there is no reason to have the gear in the locker thrown to the sea.
- hatches. When Lennart Konigson prepared ROBUST for trans-Atlantic sailing, he carried emergency
plywood covers for all hatches and windows, along with sharp nails and a conveniently located hammer.
Thankfully, they were not needed.
Holding Things Down.
- interior lockers. Our locker doors have latches which require a button to be pressed to release the latch.
Is this adequate, or does experience indicate the need for a double latch? (Lennart Konigson says the
latches work fine as they are and need no special supplment.)
- interior drawers. Something must be done to ensure drawers do not lift and slide out. I am wondering
about a small wooden cam screwed in above them that would keep the front of the drawer down, so that it
could not come out. (Again, Lennart says they are OK.)
- refrigerator door.
- panels under the seats and bunks. I have been planning to secure them with some combination of stops
on the bulkheads and twisting pieces of metal in the middle.
- floorboards. On ASTARTE, most of our floorboards are loose, and we have tools and boxes of screws,
bolts, etc. under them. If these things start flying around, would be dangerous and messy. I have to
figure out some way of securing the floorboards. At the moment, I am thinking of installing strips of
stainless steel across the floorboard joints. Probably I would rout out the floorboards, so the stainless
steel strips would be recessed. Maybe I can figure out some sort of quick release for these strips.
- batteries. When I built new battery boxes for the forward, auxiliary batteries, I screwed a strong piece
of oak to the battery boxes to keep them from moving. Then, inside the battery box, I have a strip of
wood sitting on the top of the batteries, screwed to the battery box. So the batteries will not be able to fall
out of the boxes. I want to set up by aft engine battery in a similar manner.
- cockpit grates. We drilled 1/4" countersunk holes through the center of the two forward cockpit grates.
Then we made two small straps of brass with a 1/4-20 threaded holes and screwed them onto the cockpit
floor, lined up with the hole in the grates. Each grate can be easily screwed down to ensure it can not
float away.
- mattresses. Is it necessary to have straps to hold mattresses in place?
Bilge Pumps
- we have the original piston action bilge pump on the bridge deck. I took it apart a few years ago and got
some new valves from Wilcox. It's nice that they still have parts for it. I think that the pickup pipe
originally had a filter with a check valve in it. We have removed the check-valve, but still have the
strainer. (I don't recall discussing this with my father; I think it used to clog).
One of the reasons I like the bilge drain is that I flush out the bilge every year and get solid junk out of
the boat, to reduce the risks of clogging strainers and disabling valves.
139
- we have a large ITT/Jabsco/PAR diaphragm pump (model 34600, with 1" ports), teed into the pickup
line for the piston hand pump. The pump is mounted under the aft port bunk, and has its own outlet near
the engine exhaust. This is a solid, reliable pump, with substantial capacity. I don't think it would keep
ahead of a broken through hull fitting or a large crack in the hull, but it would manage the kinds of water
entry that are likely in heavy weather. I put a large strainer on the input line for this pump, as small
pieces of debris can prevent its valves from working. Also, over years, the valves can deteriorate; one
must keep at least one set of replacement valves on board.
This pump is rather expensive compared to the more conventional submersible centrifugal pumps. If I
did not have this pump already and were starting at ground zero, I don't know what approach I would use.
However, it seems to me that putting a critical electrical part (such as an automatic bilge pump) at the
bottom of the bilge where you can barely see it, much less service it, is unlikely to result in a reliable
system. It would have to be attached to a some sort of bracket that could easily be lifted. Prior to having
this diaphragm pump, we had a heavy duty impeller type pump. That never worked well, for reasons I
don't know.
My pump has a manual and an automatic switch. I use a Jabsco air diaphragm switch (with important
adaptations to improve reliability) to drive a relay that manages the larger amperage of the pump. An air
diaphragm switch enables me to keep all electrical components under the aft port berth, far away from
bilge water. I think this will prove reliable.
- we also have a medium size hand diaphragm pump (Whale Gusher 10) mounted under the aft cabin
floorboards, on top of the shower sump tank. This pump has its own, independent pickup hose. I would
like to replace this with a larger capacity pump mounted elsewhere (so I could make a larger sump or
holding tank). The problem is I don't know where to mount a new pump. I am eyeing the locker under
the companionway stairs; but I keep tools there, and if I put a pump there, where would my large tools
go? On DESTINY, a high capacity Edson pump was installed under the very back of the port side of the
cockpit, with a handle coming into the cockpit. This is a nice installation, but I already have too much
stuff in that area (exhaust check valve, auto pilot), so I don't think I could copy that installation.
Sig Baardsen offers these comments on emergency bilge pumps:
I can understand the attractions of having a bilge pump on deck. 1/ one can hopefully pump on
watch or while steering. 2/ one can watch for oily discharge. 3/ It is an easier installation. 4/ it
consumes an otherwise unattractive space. 5/ rigging the hose directly over the side saves one
through-hull fitting.
We found in Mary T. that in bad conditions, opening the sailtrap to pump admitted more water
than we could pump out, for a net loss. In bad weather the sail traps should be secure in event of
a knockdown or rollover. When the weather becomes bad enough it is impossible to stay on
deck to pump. It is not that it is extremely uncomfortable, it is unsafe.
I would prefer to have my "Hail Mary Pump" inside where one can sit securely athwartships and
safely operate the pump for long periods of time with less fatigue. I have seen one of those big
Edson pumps mounted, upside down to underside of a floorboard. When needed the floorboard
is turned over and re-secured to the deck. That also allowed the pump to be taken out of the boat
and brought to the assistance of others.
Until we get one of those Edson pumps we will continue to keep onboard a piece of 2" by 10'
suction hose. We put one end into the bilge and jam the other end into the Lavac Head, and
pump away. It works just fine.
Special Safety Equipment
Clean out the fuel tank to reduce chance of fuel line blockage
140
Have a good timer that can wake you up and remind you to be a good lock-out every 10 minutes.
Life raft. What to get? Where to stow it? If on cabin top, what about the dinghy? (deflate, keep below)
Wire cutter
EPIRB (406)
Drogue or long, heavy ropes (ROBUST and 2 1/2” diameter rope for towing)
Sea Anchor
ssb radio
storm trisail, extra track or switch in track (Lennart things this is redundant; he has never used his.)
storm jib
put reefing points in mizzen
hand held VHF, GPS
light sticks (for illumination at night if batteries are dead).
orange colored canvas to put on deck and enhance visibility.
life preservers, flares.
jack lines
good harnesss with a short (no greater than 5-6 ft.) tether
strong anchors for harnesses, including some in the cockpit for the helmsman.
overboard bag One sailor commented:
It should contain the various items that "I wish I would/could have grabbed be for the boat went
down." He starts with the items in his personal overboard bag that he takes on deliveries: hand
held VHF with spare batteries; 5 military Meals Ready to Eat, about 5,000 calories each!); 2
quarts sealed bottled water; solar blanket; a few hand held flares; sun screen; a thick paper back
book in a large zip lock bag. There are a few other small things but nothing major. Most
modern life rafts are usually equipped with some life sustaining equipment and first aid as well.
PREPARATIONS FOR SINGLE HANDED SAILING
Apart from all the other preparations for ocean passaging, Pat will be single handing across the Pacific.
What special preparations are needed to make the Reliant/Offshore 40 convenient for single handing?
-Pat has installed oversized winches, Barient 32 Self Tailing winches as the primary winches, to make it
easier to sheet in sails in a blow.
-Rig halyards to come back to the cockpit.
SPECIAL PARTS
Cheoy Lee Shipyards recently set up a new office for representation in the United States. Their main task
is to sell, deliver, and service the new line of Cheoy Lee vessels, which are very elaborate motor sailors
(53-78 feet) and motor yachts (58-145 feet) in the $1-8 million range.
In addition, they can help us in the following ways:
- finding old parts or replacements
- brokerage, helping sell or buy Cheoy Lees
- trade-in. They will buy old Cheoy Lees as part of transactions involving purchase of new boats (not
necessarily Cheoy Lees).
Contact:
Joe Collins
Cheoy Lee Shipyards in America
Bahia Mar Yachting Center
Marina Tower, Second Floor
141
801 Seabreeze Blvd
Fort Lauderdale FL 33316
tel: 954-527-0999
Cheoy Lee Shipyard in Hong Kong is able to supply many parts. Andreas Sarris (KENARIS) recently
was able to get the cover plates for ventilators from them. He said they also have cleats with the curved
base for the mast.
My letter from Cheoy Lee Shipyards said:
We do still have some of the large chrome vents in stock although we did produce several types and sizes.
A sketch with rough dimensions would be required prior to any order for us to confirm we have the
correct type. If other parts are required please let me know as there is a chance that we will have them in
our stores.
Write to:
Jonathan Cannon
Cheoy Lee Shipyards
P.O. Box 80040 Cheung Sha Wan, Kowloon
Hong Kong
tel: (852) 2307 6333, fax: (852) 2307 5577
email: cheoylee@hkstar.com
Another potential source of replacement parts for our boats is Sailorman, 350 E. State Rd. 84, Ft.
Lauderdale FL 33316 tel: 954-522-6716 <http://www.sailorman.com>. Dave Zutler (says he is often
called Super-Dave) has a vast inventory of old parts and welcomes telephone calls to see if he has
whatever you are looking for. He has a full refund policy if something doesn't work out, as long as you
absorb shipping costs both ways.
Yet another possibility in some cases is to have the piece made for you. A small company, Bristol
Bronze, can use your existing fitting to make a mold and cast a new one out of bronze. The new one
shrinks a little, so it is a bit smaller than the original, and this may or may not be a problem. I wanted a
new spreader tip fitting, and to my dismay I could not find it in any catalog. In fact, no one had heard of
such a fitting. I sent Bristol Bronze one, and got a second one to supplement my original. I think the
price was something like $30 or $40, more than what you would expect for a mass produced item, but not
profoundly extravagant.
Roger Winiarski
Bristol Bronze
130 Bulgarmarsh Rd.
Tiverton RI 02878.
401-625-5224
Bob Sundman reports:
A source for replacement bulkhead (and other) material is the marine salvage yard in Quonset
Point Rhode Isalnd (near New London CT) has lots of structural parts, mechanical parts and
interior trim parts from sailboats (and power boats) that they are scrapping out. Included in their
inventory (on my visit in Nov. 98) were both removed and installed sailboat bulkheads in teak
and mahogany. Some have been cut out and were laying in a pile along with drawers, doors, and
floors. It is a great place - just like a automotive junkyard. They like to trade. I traded a bunch
of small bronze ports for a set of stainless opening ports, lavatory sink and some other small
parts from a Irwin 35 which will fit well into my Offshore 40. Their phone number is
401-294-9661, but they were not very responsive by phone - you almost have to go in person.
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I have discovered one secret of how professionals are able to get all kinds of hard-to-get hardware, eg.
stainless steel or otherwise obscure plumbing fittings, special types of hoses, etc. They use the
McMaster-Carr company, which provides an extraordinary catalog and mail order services. (732-3293200) Only corporations with accounts can actually order. Many boat yards and a wide range of
hardware or maintenance organizations also have such accounts. At my university, the physics machine
shop has an account. I got a year-old catalog from this shop and found it absolutely fascinating reading.
My wife complained for a week that I took the catalog to bed with me and found it too exciting.
Suddenly I realized I could easily get things that earlier I could imagine and spend hours on the telephone
before giving up. From time to time I ask my boat yard to order specific items for me. My most recent
purchase this way was a small thermometer with a 6" probe, that I used to penetrate a bulkhead and
battery box and to gauge whether I am overcharging and overheating my new batteries. Cost was only
$12.00.
More recently, I have received the MSC catalog, totalling 4,075 pages. (800-645-7270). I don't have
much experience with them yet, but they will sell to individuals. They have a minimum order of $25.00.
So far in my explorations, this is the first place I have seen monel bolts as a catalog item, but they sell in
units of 100.
MOORING CHAIN
This is not directly about a Reliant, but it is closely related. I have been surprized by the deterioration of
my mooring chain in New Rochelle. In five years, the 1/2" galvanized chain deteriorated so much that I
felt insecure. I previously had thought of chain as being virtually permanent. Now I see it, as everything
else, as a "wear item." The zinc galvanizing perhaps has electrolysis with bronze propellers and seacocks in the vicinity, and deteriorates. Then there is rust. Then, the constant movement of the boat
causes the links to wear against each other. The movement is greatest and the wear the greatest on the
first three feet of the chain, where the rope pennants shackle on. I have asked the person who services it
to put on 5/8" chain. If you are on a mooring, along with the million other things to check, include the
mooring chain. (The man who services moorings feels that New Rochelle harbor has more than normal
electrolysis because of sediment from an electrical transformer factory.)
TRUCKING OF BOATS
Brian Johnson made an interesting discovery when he bought WINDRESS and had her trucked from
Florida to Annapolis. The cost was only $1,700 because it was in the fall, when many boats were being
trucked south and trucks were returning north without loads. If you can choose your routes and times to
go against the main flow, the cost is quite reasonable.
Mickey Culver made these discoveries when he trucked MIST from California to Massachusetts.:
For the cross country 3,120 mile trip we ultimately made, we received quotes of $4,650, $7,200
and $9,500 from different trucking companies. We also got a quote which wiggled around
between $7,500 and $6,500 from a broker, who claimed to represent several trucking lines.
For our boats, height seemed to be the potentially most difficult issue. All the truckers I spoke
with needed a boat's overall height to be under 12 feet, in order for the rig to have a maximum
height under 13 feet 6 inches. Above that, the truck needed special permits and an accompanying
vehicle, which adds greatly to the expense. Mist cleared even with pulpit and pushpit installed.
Given a range of prices like that I wouldn't always pick the low bidder but I had a good feeling
after talking with the folks down at Deep Water transport, in Washington, N.C.,
http://www.deepwatertransport.net/. They were very courteous and helpful, stayed in touch all
the way across the country and delivered Mist to Newburyport MA in 6 days and in great shape.
The cab of their truck was quite high which I suspect helped keep a lot of dirt flowing over Mist,
rather than onto her. The yard in Santa Barbara had stuffed everything down below and there
143
was no evidence of anything moving, and no damage at all. She wasn't locked for the trip which
wasn't a problem, apparently because she's a sailboat, and hence hard to enter, when she's on a
truck. Power boats, with their low sterns, are apparently prone to picking up stowaways.
Ken Keltner found the same company, Deep Water, to be excellent and reasonable for shipping WHISKY
from Lake Michigan to Florida.
Glen Smith, a mechanic in Oklahoma, converted a combine trailer into a boat trailer. He bought
WINDFLOWER in Maine, sailed her to Baltimore, and loaded her on his new trailer and trailed her
home. In a few years, he'll trail her back to salt water.
PRICES OF RELIANTS AND OFFSHORE 40s
We all appreciate that the value of a used boat ultimately is whatever a buyer and seller agree upon. The
sales price is influenced by the condition of the hull, deck, sails, motor, other equipment, the urgency of
the seller in closing a deal (estate and divorce sales tend to go at low prices), the determination of a buyer
to have a particular boat, the local and national price trends, etc.
I have tried to collect price data for transactions and listings since 1990. The data I have show a wide
range in prices, from $10,000 to above $80,000. In very rough terms, it appears that:
- boats in distressed condition, probably not in sailing condition, recently sunk or abandoned, in need of
immediate, major restoration, sell near or below 20. An Offshore 40 was recently purchased at 10. She
had been abandoned for 10 years, out of the water, and probably will need a lot of work.
- boats in sailing condition, reasonably good shape, but without deck restoration, owners anxious to sell,
in a very crowded markets (Fort Lauderdale) or thin markets (Nova Scotia) are in the 30's.
- boat in good sailing condition and well equipped for ocean sailing, with deck restoration looming in the
future, are in the 45-50 range. Five boats have sold recently in this range.
- boats in good sailing condition, good overall shape, sometimes with deck restoration and some other
restoration work but with some restoration work (such as tanks) not yet done, with modest but not
elaborate electronics and other equipment, are in the 50-60 range.
- boats pretty much fully restored, including re-powering. Probably in the 60-70 range.
- a boat beautifully restored, with new teak decks and beautiful brightwork, new algriped hull, and
restored electrical and plumbing systems sold in the 80-90 range. (I am not sure how elaborate the
electronic and mechanical systems were on this boat.)
- The BUC book 1992 estimate of 37.7-41.8 was not far off for an average, but average does not mean
very much. Most boats are far worse or far better than average.
The "modal price" was $45,000, and 45 percent of the sales were between $42,000 and $57,000.
144
Prices
Rhodes Reliants and Offshore 40s
1990-2003
20
80
90
30
40
50
60
70
100
....:....|....:....|....:....|....:....|....:....|....:....|....:....|
....:....|....:....|
sales x x
x x
x
x
x
x
x
xx
x
x xx x xx
x
xx xxx xx
x
x
x
x
xx x
xx
xx x
x
x xx
xx xx
listings :
x
x
x x
x
x x
x
x
x
BUC 1992 :
xxxxx
ECONOMICS OF RESTORATION
How much does it cost to restore and upgrade our boats? To what extent can it be recovered if/when you
sell your boat?
Nigel Calder, in a recent article in Cruising World (November 1997), estimated that it cost upward of
$40,000 to restore and upgrade his own boat from a worn but not dilapidated condition to top-flight
condition. He did much of the labor himself. He lists some of the components of restoration and
estimated prices:
standing rigging/terminals
sails
New engine (Yanmar 4JH2HE)
Electrical Upgrade (elaborate)
Rigging, ground tackle
Refrigerator
New stove
Dinghy
Cushions
Refinish hull, decks
flares, safety gear,
$4,000
7,000 - 10,000
14,000
10,000
1,000
1,000 - 4,000
1,500
1,000 - 2,000
1,000 - 2,000
10,000
200 - 3,000
Total
51,200 - 62,500
Similarly, Dan Spurr (the PRACTICAL SAILOR, Dec. 1997), reports upgrades of about $30,000 (at doin-yourself labor rates) on a Tartan 44 he bought for $35,000. He feels that the boat could be sold to
recover his total investment at this point, but guesses that additional projects will not be recouped.
One owner of a sistership bought his boat in distressed condition at $22,000, and has added $39,000 for a
total of $61,000. He kept detailed records. Here is his budget:
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Ground tackle (2 anchors, chain, windless)
refrigerator
jib furler
new mizzen mast,boom
sails (2 new jibs, mizzen, re-stitch main)
standing rigging (dyform/norseman)
stove
leather settee, new berth cushions
new table
lexan ports, hatches, new lights
Electronics: stereo, speakers, vhf
ssb
radar with leveler
12 volt upgrade/alt/inverter/batteries
solar panels
heater
monitor wind vane (used)
auto pilot
dodger
rebuild pedestal, s/s guard, dorades
bilge pump
life sling
Misc blocks, rigid vang, hdwr
Total
$m
2.93
1.
1.65
3.
6.9
2.2
1.4
2.6
.5
.94
1.06
1.6
1.8
1.69
.9
1.9
1.6
2.45
1.1
.69
.2
.15
.8
39.06
The boat is ready to go to sea, but still has the original deck, tanks, and engine.
Another owner bought a Reliant in good condition at $65 and has put in around $30, much into
brightwork and engine re-build.
Obviously, none of our lists will be exactly the same, but in the area of rigging and sails there will be
some overlap. Nevertheless, the overall estimate of around $40,000 to restore an old boat may be a useful
benchmark. However, boat yard bill for extensive restorations of the teak deck, cabin sides, rails, and
bright work can raise the cost of professional restoration and upgrading to well over $100,000 (on top of
the purchase price of the boat).
When we compare these number with the market prices of the boats, it appears that the market value of a
boat roughly reflects the cost of new purchases to restore and upgrade the boat, but does not cover $50 an
hour boat yard labor to do all the installation work. If you do-it-yourself, your costs are roughly covered.
If you have boat yard bills for new teak decks and beautiful varnish, so far the evidence is that the market
place does not support the full recovery of these costs.
When we compare these numbers with the prices (and characteristics) of modern, new boats, we all know
we have wonderful boats for the money. We have seaworthy, comfortable, good handling, beautiful
boats that can take us anywhere at the cost of a fraction of a new boat.
Here is one approach to thinking about costs. If a new boat were available like ours (which it isn't), it
could easily cost $100-200,000 more than our boats. At 10 percent, that capital would produce income of
$10-20,000 a year. My long-term restoration costs are far less than that each year, and will not continue
forever. Of course there are annual maintenance costs, dockage, insurance, etc. also, but they would be
about the same for a new boat as for an old boat.
146
Needless to say, the dollar sums are high; but life is an expensive habit. Many people spend this kind of
money and more for new cars or additions to their homes, and some choose a night of gambling instead
of new teak decks. My preference is clear.
INSURANCE
How much does it cost to insure a Rhodes Reliant or Offshore 40? The rates vary a great deal, depending
on location. I guess it reflects the various risks. Here is some information from different owners of
sisterships in different regions:
Puget Sound:
From Nick Maddalena, Puget Sound Boat US insured me with no problem. My boat was thirty years old
at the time. Comprehensive coverage for only $350.00 per year.
California Coast:
From Paz Zajac, San Francisco Bay I have had McGee through a broker for about 20 years, coverage
comparable to the others mentioned with hull value at $57,500 and 1% deductible, $2500 personal
effects. Premium is about $600 per year. They had required (at my expense) a full out of water survey
every 3 yeazs until recently. I would love to get a "live aboard" policy to cover personal things off the
boat but when I checked it was horribly expensive...about $1500 per year with $1000 deductible.
Geographical limits include, I believe, Bodega Bay to Pt. Sur and out 100 miles. I have been gradually
extending this and have had no problems when I ask for greater limits. I do know, however, that I will
not be able to get insurance coverage if I decide to do the single handed Transpac to Hawaii, and this is,
quite frankly, a concern that I will factor into my decision.
From Wayne Sperduto, Monterey Bay CA I am insured with Boat/ U.S., after a recommendation from
other boat owner friends. Currently my premium is <$500 per year with a vessel value of $35,000 and
medical coverage of $10,000, with an initial haul out. (Other details not handy right now.) The area
covered is from Vancouver, B.C. to Point Banda, Mexico, and either 50 or 100 miles offshore. I intend to
raise the values insured, now that Holokai is seaworthy and worth more. How that will affect the rates
will be seen. Other more expensive policies may be providing a better overall coverage, but it pays to
shop around and compare.
As far as passage - making insurance, there is another school of thought to avoid this major cost - buy the
typical coastal insurance that covers either end of your trip, and put the other "premium" money into
buying excellent gear and backup gear - maybe a good life raft, or buoyancy system. Let's face it - a
catastrophe at sea is not going to be fixed on the spot by any insurance policy. If it is that bad, that
insurance paper isn't going to save you - but that high – end ($$) life raft or buoyancy system might!
Northeast
From Ben Stavis, Northeast Coast My insurance is costing $1,189 for a policy of $55,000, with a
deductible of $1,100, layup period of 7 months, for coastwise sailing from Virginia to Maine.
From Mark Treat, also Northeast My insurance is remarkably similar in cost and terms, but I have $70K
coverage plus $20K of personal effects. Went to AMICA insurance.
Chesapeake Bay:
From Kurt Karstan, Chesapeake Bay I have a Boat U/S policy (and have had since 1981) which right now
is $790 for an agreed upon hull value of $50,000, with a deductible of $500. Obviously this is a
Chesapeake Bay policy, but we get a rider for $100 or so for Atlantic coverage, with the provision that it
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winters in the bay. There is no winterization exclusion the last several years. Liability is $300,000, as is
uninsured boater's coverage. One nice feature of the Boat U/S policy is that they do a full survey every
ten years and provide an abbreviated copy of the report with various "action" items rated in terms of
priority.
From David Epstein, Chesapeake Bay I have a policy with Allstate, the big guys, and they got me on a
policy years ago that goes up a little bit, not much. I now pay $570 for a hull value of $75,000. They
have been terrific to deal with and actually paid out on two occasions over the years. Only when I got my
original policy did I get asked for a survey. I also can sail any place in the U.S. and 100 miles. I would
recommend them highly.
Southeast:
From Henry Young, in southern waters Siskiwit 1969 Hull Value insured at $75,000 Liability $300,000,
Med. $5,000 Unisured Boater $5,000, Personal Effects $3,000 Layup period 5 months Florida &
Bahamas, not to exceed 250 miles offshore. COST: $1,725 Insurer La Reunion Francaise, SA placed
by Blue Water Ins., Jupiter, Fl.
From Jack and Kathy McCormick in Southern waters: OWL is insured for $45K, 10 percent deductable.
Cost is $710. Additional personal effects to $4,500 for an extra $90, and $300k liability for $136. The
total premium is $936. Navigation limits are 100 miles offshore. For sailing in the Bahamas, Turks, and
Caicos, the deductibles are doubled. Insurance written by National Marine Underwriters, Annapolis 800262-8467.
Great Lakes:
From Henry Young, Great Lakes Insured by BOAT US in Great Lakes in late 80's same values for $500 a
year.
From Henry Young East Coast 1992 East Coast $800.
I have heard that Puget Sound is very attractive; right now it seems even more attractive. And it would be
nice to sail there by way of the Great Lakes! I did not realize that southern waters are considered so
dangerous. I guess hurricanes and lightning. The northeast has its hurricanes and congestion, so is pretty
high also.
ON GENERATIONS
I note as I write that I often use the first person plural: "we" or "our." This is not the "royal we." It is
simply that I still feel I am maintaining ASTARTE with my father. He bought the boat new in 1964, and,
until his death in 1992, boat maintenance was a joint father-son activity. So for anything done before
1992, "we" refers to my father and me. The truth is that when I work on the boat now, I still feel he is
looking over my shoulder, and I try to make him happy as I maintain his boat. I think he likes what I am
doing; at least he never complains or tells me I am doing something wrong. He maintained the boat to
make sure it would be in good shape for me, and I am doing the same for my children.
Several of our sisterships have stayed in families. Sheila Ross is the original owner of LA DOLCE
VITA. Park and Gloria Shorthose are the original owners of SHIBUI. Foxhall Parker is still obsessed
with OBSESSION.
Other second generation boats, beyond ASTARTE, are owned by Curt Karstan (MISTRESS) and Reed
Simmons (TIRANTE).
As for the third generation, grand children are being trained. Sheila Ross's three daughters have married
men who are not interested in maintaining this special sweet life, but her nine year old grand daughter is
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already an accomplished varnisher, and may show more sense and loyalty. Similarly, my son is too
fascinated by fast cars, but my eleven year old daughter is varnishing and polishing.
COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS
Are there any semi-commercial products we should encourage that would be particularly appealing to us
as owners of Rhodes Reliants or Offshore 40s? Doug Wintermute wonders if we could make note paper.
Does anyone have a really special picture that would be suitable on note paper? The picture of
ASTARTE under spinnaker is very nice, but is not in color, and I feel a color picture would be better.
Dave Cherubini (DESTINY) has a cousin who makes boat models. He wants to make a mold of the
Reliant so he can make a model for Dave. If he does this, he will be able to make half models of our boats
at a reasonable price.
Do we provide enough economies of scale for Reliant/Offshore 40 tee shirts, wind-breakers, hats, plates,
glasses, etc. Does anyone have other ideas? If any of you is interested in this, please take the initiative.
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Rhodes Reliant - Offshore 40
Handbook
of
Maintenance and Upgrades
December 21, 2003
Ben Stavis
114 Harvest Circle
Bala Cynwyd PA 19004
610-660-9966
bstavis@temple.edu
http://astro.temple.edu/~bstavis/reliant.htm
© 1999, 2000, 2001, 2003
The growth of this handbook reflects the collective experience of owners of Rhodes
Reliants and Offshore/Empire 40s. Please send me your additions, corrections, and
suggestions, and I will incorporate them in revised versions of this handbook.