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Exmoor
EXMOOR TOURISM BEFORE 1939
People have been drawn to Exmoor’s wild beauty for two hundred years or more and not only
for sport. Artists like John William North who painted Exford and Robert Polhill Bevan who
painted and hunted at Hawkridge, and writers like R. D. Blackmore and Richard Jeffries who
wrote Red Deer (1884) after a visit to Exford were not only influenced by Exmoor but drew
others to want to see it for themselves. The railway enabled people from all over the country
to visit Exmoor easily. After the First World War tourists gradually ceased to come
exclusively from the leisured class. Although hunting and fishing tourism continued to be
important, the cheap railway excursion ticket and arrival of the motor car, charabanc, and
motor coach meant day trippers especially to places like Tarr Steps. Holidaymakers on the
coast were able to penetrate the moors on organised outings from their hotel or resort.
Simonsbath
In 1910 the tenants of farms and cottages in Exmoor parish took in hunters and other visitors
to make ends meet. Although sporting rights had little value there was good fishing at
Cornham. A farmhouse and the vicarage were let as hunting boxes in the autumn which added
considerably to annual income. Simonsbath was used mainly by the owners in the hunting
season and had a large stable. The Exmoor Forest Hotel offered had 12 bedrooms and 2
bathrooms, electric light, ample stabling, and a cycle house. It was well frequented for fishing
and hunting. Simonsbath cottage provided teas for summer visitors.1 After the First World
War the Exmoor Forest Hotel kept a car to fetch visitors from Dulverton station and opened a
licensed bar. The hotel was open all year as people came for hunting bringing their own
horses. Accommodation was provided for grooms and chauffeurs. After a large breakfast
1
TNA, IR 58/82400
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most guests would take a packed lunch and leave the hotel free for coach parties and others
wanting lunches and cream teas. Coaches came from Minehead and Lynmouth and there were
chauffeur driven cars. Some regular visitors would come for a month or more. The hotel
provided employment for local girls. The work was poorly paid and staff relied on tips. By the
1920s it was said that in summer visitors occupied all the available accommodation.2
Elsewhere
Hotels and public houses in neighbouring parishes were always full in the hunting season as
many brought their servants with them. Grooms and chauffeurs would be lodged in village
houses. Many farmers stabled the visitor’s horses and some enterprising people bought ponies
to hire to visitors. Pony races were held at Hawkridge and Withypool but it was said that the
loss of visitors during the Second World War led to ponies being sold and the races ceased.3
By 1923 in addition to its hotels Dulverton offered apartments and Exford had a temperance
hotel. The White Horse at Exford had a livery stable and accommodation for cars by 1910
when it was a modern building with 13 bedrooms and two bathrooms. Tarr Steps farm in
Dulverton had a tearoom by 1931 when planned improvements including a better kitchen and
toilets. It later offered accommodation.4
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2
3
4
Orwin, C. S. Reclamation of Exmoor Forest (1929), 109; SRO, Exmoor Oral archive.
SRO, Exmoor Oral Archive.
TNA IR 58/82357; SRO, D/P/dul 24/1/130.
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