GLOSSARY A-a aho: weft thread in weaving aho poka: in weaving a short weft used to shape a garment. A group of short wefts also known as a poka aho taahuhu: the weft thread strung across the weaving pegs aho tapu: sacred first line, the casting on thread of the sampler made during initiation aho whatu: end of line of weaving aonui: täniko pattern based on the triangle motif (also called aronui) arä: line of weaving or weft aramoana: täniko pattern based on continuous chevrons without serratious arapaki: ornamental lattice work between upright slabs of walls in a meeting house arawa: a variety of flax from the Rotoiti area, grows up to 2.5m high and readily yields good, clean muka. It is also excellent for piupiu. atiraukawa: a variety of harakeke fibre of high quality; the young leaf is bright olive-green which turns a bronze color when mature awhirito/matua: two leaves on either side of rito awahou: a short bladed flax variety from the eastern Bay of Plenty, has a distinctive tip. Its leaves make a strong kete and very dry and white after being boiled aute: paper mulberry tree H-h haaro: to remove the flax fibre from the leaves by cutting across the under side, then drawing over a makoi (mussel shell) haehae: tool used to mark parallel lines of weaving strips hapine: to remove moisture from and to soften weaving material harakeke: New Zealand flax haro: to scrape the para or green layer off the harakeke to expose the fibre here: cord hieke: a cloak or cape with tags of double strips of flax leaf hihima: a korowai cloak with undyed tags hinaki: eel trap made from kareao houhere/ houhi/houi/ hoihere: hoheria lace bark used to make potae huaki: a) korowai which has double taniko boarders along the sides and bottom and which has horizontal wefts in the woven foundation b) a kaitaka cloak with horizontal wefts and double taniko borders on three sides hukahuka: a) tassel from two strands, added to the woven foundation, rolled tags b) the tag attachments on a cloak, either rolled cord or strips of flax leaf c) thrums, tassels on a garment huruhika: superior variety of harakeke huuhi: variety of harakeke with dark edges to the leaves I-I io: plaiting strip K-k kaikaha: left over scraps of harakeke kaka: hank kahu/kakahu: general name for Mäori cloaks kahu huruhuru: general name for cloaks decorated with feathers kahu kura: cloak decorated with red feathers of the parrot kaitaka: class of cloaks, which are decorated with taniko (also known as parawai) kaitiaki: guardian kakahu/korowai: cloak kahu tupapaku: any cloak used to drape over a corpse kanono: tree, used for dying kaokao: class of taniko pattern in which the upturned chevron is used also used in tukutuku karure: a) to twist two minimum threads to form a double thread; two ply thread b) tassel from three threads c) curled tassels katau: first part of the rolling process in which the threads are rolled forward from the body, down and to the right of the leg kati pipipi: harakeke bird cage kaupapa: theme, or the foundation or main surface of a cloak kawe: burden carriers kawe huri: baby cradle made from untreated kiekie kawhiu: diving kete, used to hold paua or fish kete nikau: kete made from nikau leaves kete pai kaka: harakeke kete for carrying clothes kete whakairo: a kete with coloured decorative geometric patterns kohua: boil kohunga: superior variety of harakeke with tall but rather droopy-leafed cultivar that flowers freely, narrow leaf, olive green in color with edge and keel fading on the upper side (term is used in the WaikatoManiapoto area); it gives very silky muka and is good for kete komiri: to rub with the fingers komuru: rubbing kono/rourou: food basket korowai: class of cloaks, in which the body ornamentation consists of pompom tassels, tags and thrums korowai ngore: korowai with hukahuka and pompoms kopare: headband korari: flower stalk of the harakeke kowhai: yellow kurupatu: neck fringe on a cloak. fringe In some areas also the hem M-m makawerao: a variety of flax makomako: a small tree, the bark of which is used as a dye mordant mangu: black maramara: mud used in obtaining a black dye (known also as uku or paru); is rusty coloured on top and is usually found in swamps maro: an apron like garment matawai: a variety of flax miro: a) fine thread used as weft material in weaving b) a rolled cord also the rolling process Miro is produced in the order of forward and right forward action followed by backward and leftward action. In Mäori terminology katau (right) plus maui (left). To produce karure threads the order of rolling is reversed to maui followed by katau motu-o-nui: a variety of flax with straight green leaves unevenly tipped with white. muka: a) flax fibre, called whitau in some districts b) mumu: prepare the fibre of harakeke a tukutuku pattern which has a checkerboard appearance N-n ngaro: a variety of flax from the Moutoa Swamp, Foxton, is a very tall (3m) straight variety with a distinct bronze tinge and surprisingly silky muka given the size and stiffness of the leaves. This variety is also good for piupiu and kete O-o oue: superior variety of harakeke such as kohunga P-p paapaka: pattern based on the basket weave which has a perpendicular line through each diamond paatea: cloak in which the body wefts are horizontal, and the sides and bottom borders have single taniko bands paepae hangi: oven surrounds paepaeroa: cloak with vertical wefts in the main body and with single taniko borders along the sides and bottom paepearoa-huaki: cloak with vertical wefts in the body and which has double taniko borders along the side and both borders pa harakeke: harakeke plantation paka wha: outside dried leaves of the harakeke plant pango: a variety of flax paoa: a variety of flax from Gisborne, with broad yellow green leaves that are slightly droopy. Unlike many varieties, paoa flowers very freely. When it dries the leaf strips are distinctly yellow, which makes this a valuable variety for kete and whariki. para: film or skin parawai: Wanganui class name for cloaks decorated with taniko pare: head band (also tipare) Parekoretawa: a naturally variegated flax variety from the East Coast, with orange leaf margins and keel. The muka it produces is shiny but rather brittle pari: bodice used during ceremonials paru: mud patikitiki: term coined for patterns based on single diamonds papakirango: East Coast term for patterns based on the basket weave patu: beating, a term used in the production of muka patu muka: stone pounder used for beating harakeke fibre patu whitau: another name for a stone beater pauku pukupuku: war cloak made entirely of the close singlepair twine and worn to protect against spear thrusts. pia: the first order of learners being initiated into esoteric lore piupiu: a) kilt worn by male and female performers during ceremonial occasions and concerts b) a waist garment consisting of a free swinging fringe, formed by the dried flax whenu c) a skirt like garment made up of numerous strands of prepared harakeke poha: mutton bird container, harakeke kete which holds a kelp bag into which the mutton bird are placed and covered by a piece of totara bark poka: a dart in clothing used for shaping pokinikini: decorative cylindrical tags made from flax strips naturally rolled into tubes on drying pora: rain cloak or cape potae taua: a head covering worn by widows in mourning pukupuku: a closely woven flax cloak. pair twining technique Also the close single- pungarehu: ashes putake: root, or the base of the harakeke puuahi: type of dogskin cloak in which the foundation was covered with strips of white hairless dogskin. The breed of dog was called puahi puwai or tourimu: fish kete made from titi leaves. R-r raapaki: garment, usually a cloak worn around the waist, also known as a waist mat raranga: the activity of weaving raukura: a clump of white feathers rau kumara: taniko and tukutuku pattern composed mainly of horizontal and vertical lines raureka: a yellow dye used on flax fibre is produced from the bark and or roots. Known as kanono and manono in other areas rito: young shoot rongo tainui: superior type of harakeke rui: sorting rukutia: superior type of harakeke dextrals: in plaitwork there are two sets of strips, one set pointing to the right away from the plaiter (the dextrals) and another set pointing away from the plaiter and to the left (sinistrals) thrum: a fringe or tassel of short unwoven threads uku: rusty-coloured mud used to obtain a black dye T-t tae: dye, juice of plants, colour takatu: prepare or get ready. take: the stump end of the harakeke leaf takitahi: to weave over one, then under one takikau: variety of harakeke from which high grade fibre can be drawn without the use of a shell takari: jerking technique used to strip away the harakeke leaves takitahi: the basic over-one under-one stroke used in both plaitwork and raranga takatu kiekie: preparing kiekie take: the base of the kiekie leaf taniwha: a variety of flax which comes from the garden of Sir Apirana Ngata tanekaha: Phyllocladus trichomanoides, a tree, the bark of which is used to produce a red brown dye used on harakeke fibre taniko: a) a pre-European twining weaving technique b) finger weaving technique utilised to create garments tapeka: patterned bandolier worn by males as a ceremonial costume tapiki: turn in – a technique to finish the tops of kete or casting off of mats tatara: a type of rain cape tauira horomata: taupokipoki: a pupil under the instruction of an expert pattern of single alternating triangles taupora: hangi whariki tatua whiri: braided belts taniko: colored geometric finger-woven pattern taniko dyes: hinau bark and paru, tanekaha and raureka bark tanekaha: celery pine the bark of which is used to produce a tan colour tawatawa: pattern based on vertical and horizontal lines te tatua: a variety of flax from Gisborne, which has short narrow leaves and is good for kete te tikanga: the method of preparing kiekie for boiling tihoi: extra wefts inserted in the body of the garments to allow for body fit; also a superior variety of harakeke tihore: to peel, strip or remove the skin, also a superior variety of harakeke tipare: a headband tohutohutanga: guidance or instruction toiki/waikawa: large rough baskets or mats toiiki: harakeke kete used to store seed potato and to weather before planting toe toe: split or divide the leaf, stripping torua: twilled plaiting; the strips pass over two, under two torehe: fish trap made from kareao or harakeke torua whakatakoto: twilled twos plaiting in horizontal bands torua whakatu: twilled twos, plaiting in vertical bands tuitui: to lace, sew tukemata: class of patterns based on serrated chevrons tukohu: a basket used for cooking food in boiling pools tukutuku: lattice work depicting facets of tikanga and kawa in superior houses decorative wall panels where horizontal slats of wood are attached in front of vertical kakaho stalks with cross and single stitches arranged with specific patterns tumatakahuki: woven brace or stake of arapaki/tukutuku turuturu: an upright peg used by weavers to hold their work in place. tutu: tukutuku: shrub, the bark of which was used as a dye mordant. ornamental fibre bases lattice-work between the poupou in the wharenui torehe: fish trap, made from harakeke and kareao turuke: crayfish pot, made from kareao hoops with manuka lattice work tupuna: ancestors tuturu: frame tukohu: cooking basket made from toetoe which lasts longer in mineral water, Rotorua area W-w whakakitaratara: picket top of kete whakamaroke: to dry whakamata: first line whanake: Most commonly used for Mäori craft are the leaves of the known as ti kauka or ti kouka among other names ti ngahere is used for rope making and other purposes. The fibre is very strong and long lasting in water than harakeke (feathers and fibre) whakapa: preparing for separation of muka whakapapa: the sequence in which the coloured strips are laid out at the commencement of a kete or whariki whakairo. Also known whakapoti: to make a corner whakarite: to prepare whararua: class of patterns based on two or more diamonds placed one above the other (literally, two mouths) whatu: a pre-European weaving technique, to weave whatu aho paati: single pair twining. A weaving technique using a single pair of cords, for each weft. whatu aho rua: double pair twining. A weaving technique in which four cords (two pairs) are used for each weft whenu: weaving strip, warp thread whenu tapiri: long whenu dyed black whinau: tree, Elaeocarpus dentatus, the bark of which was used as dye, (also known as hinau) whiri: plaiting whiri whenu: warp twist whitau: high grade prepared harakeke fibre waitumu: mordant used in dying harakeke