ABERLADY BAY: - East Lothian Heritage

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ABERLADY BAY:
HERITAGE, PILGRIMAGE AND ARCHAEOLOGY
A Historical and Archaeological Research and Interpretation Project
by
Aberlady Conservation Society
Project Description
November, 2007
ABERLADY BAY: HERITAGE, PILGRIMAGE AND ARCHAEOLOGY
A Historical and Archaeological Research and Interpretation Project
by Aberlady Conservation Society
1. INTRODUCTION
1.1
The project is a community-led initiative to further explore and promote, for the benefit of the
local community and wider interests, the rich heritage of Aberlady. The project enjoys and
acknowledges the advisory support of East Lothian Council Archaeology Services, the British
Library, the National Museums of Scotland and the teaching staff of Aberlady Primary School (see
letters of support – Annex A)
1.2.
Aberlady is recognised as being rich in archaeological evidence of occupation since
prehistoric times. The concentration of stray Anglo-Saxon metallic finds found here is unrivalled
anywhere else in Scotland. During the medieval period Aberlady was an exceptionally important
location not only for its own region but for Scotland also. Nevertheless, the various activities which
took place here over time are not well understood. There are significant pointers to a strong
ecclesiastic phase of occupation from at least the 8th Century when Aberlady had strong links with the
monasteries at both Iona within Dal Riata and Lindisfarne in Northumbria, and it appears that
Aberlady may have been an important centre on the pilgrimage route between them. But for centuries
afterwards, the village, through its port, continued to prosper as a centre of international economic
activity serving Haddington and its vast hinterland. Kilspindie, Luffness and Saltcoats castles each
provide testimony to the strategic importance of the anchorage. The architecturally pleasing built
environment of the historic core of the village which we enjoy today - including our Mercat Cross and
ubiquitous ‘Loupin’ on Stane’ - which saw Aberlady emerge as a popular tourist destination during
Edwardian times, reflects that prosperity. Some of the trading taking place in the 17 th and 18th
Centuries was not carried out legally.
2. PROJECT AIMS AND OUTCOMES
2.1
The aim of the project is to build on recent desk-top historical research and reconnaissance
research undertaken by Aberlady Conservation Society by surveying three sites related by their
maritime heritage on the south side of Aberlady Bay; to carry out further historical research; to
interpret the findings for the future benefit of the local community and those farther afield; to increase
heritage tourism in the area; to improve our national understanding of the importance of Aberlady
since earliest times for the benefit of the historical record; and to make available the final project
report.
2.2
This project description outlines an integrated programme of geophysical survey and small
scale excavation at three sites to the north of the village, each related to the maritime origins and
development of the village. The historical research carried out by Aberlady Conservation Society will
be augmented by further research, to be undertaken under the direction of Professor Richard Oram,
Department of History, University of Stirling in co-operation with the local Society. This will include
specific cartographic research to place the known archaeological sites in their landscape context and
to appraise how the landscape has developed and changed over the centuries.
2.3
The project outcomes include the development of various heritage interpretation media,
including teaching packs for the local school. The project will encourage community volunteers (all
age groups) to participate and/or view the proposed archaeological surveys where health and safety
issues dictate the latter. It will also include opportunities for the community to learn about the expert
craft of fine stone carving, professional artwork, and the nature of archaeology.
3. SURVEY AND EXCAVATION
General Approach to Excavations
3.1
The excavations will be directed by CFA Archaeology staff, and conducted by volunteers
from Aberlady Conservation Society and the local community.
3.2
All excavations and deturfing will be undertaken by hand. All excavation and on-site
recording will be carried out according to standard CFA procedures, principally by drawing, by
photography and by completing standard CFA record forms. The locations of all trenches will be
recorded using industry standard EDM surveying equipment. Trenches will be fenced-off during
excavation and will be backfilled on completion of excavation. Backfilling will be monitored by an
archaeologist. All artefacts will be retained for analysis, and reference samples will be taken of all
significant stratified deposits to allow consideration of whether they have potential for conducting
palaeobotanical or other soils analyses. The stratification of all excavated areas will be recorded,
whether or not significant archaeological deposits have been identified.
If deposits of
palaeoenvironmental significance are discovered during the evaluation, CFA's palaeoenvironmental
scientist will make a site visit to assess their potential and to advise upon sampling strategies.
3.3
If encountered, human remains will be briefly recorded and East Lothian Council contacted,
so that an appropriate mitigation strategy can be developed. The local police will also be notified of
the intention to conduct work at this site, and of the discovery of human remains.
3.4
Health and safety considerations, for CFA staff, volunteers and the visiting public, will be
paramount during the project.
Survey Sites
3.5
The three sites to be investigated are (a) the Glebe and neighbouring Butcher’s Fields, (b) the
medieval harbour quay located opposite the former Customs House, and (c) the Smugglers’ Cave, as
identified on the attached location plan.
(a) The Glebe and Butcher’s Fields
Context
3.6
A range of archaeological and historical research has been conducted at Aberlady in recent
years. Historical research and reconnaissance surveys undertaken by Aberlady Conservation Society;
geophysical surveys of the Glebe field undertaken by CFA Archaeology in 1995 and 1998; and metal
detecting surveys undertaken by Roger McWee have demonstrated the importance of Aberlady (and
particularly Kilspindie on the south side of the Bay), as a place of settlement from at least the Bronze
Age to the recent past. The geophysical surveys detected anomalies suggestive of Anglo-Saxon
timber halls, ring-groove houses, various enclosures, pits and an east-west running avenue. On the
basis of this evidence and the metallic finds recovered from the site, the Glebe Field was scheduled as
an ancient monument. However, according to as yet unpublished work by Alice Blackwell, PhD
candidate at Glasgow University, what the metallic finds tell us, beyond confirming an exciting site, is
quite limited:
“As they are all stray finds, they could have come from a variety of contexts, and as such any
archaeological survey at the site will be very valuable. The metallic finds represent the
largest single concentration of Anglo-Saxon stray finds found in Scotland. They indicate
activity in the vicinity of Glebe Field probably during the 8th and 9th centuries, and
seemingly beyond, but they are not a great deal of help identifying what that activity was.
Clearly, there is an ecclesiastical element in Aberlady given the sculptured 8thC Christian
cross fragment and other Christian finds, but whether these metallic finds relate to that, or
whether there is other activity too, is not clear at the present time.
Our understanding of the relations between Anglo-Saxon England and the Early Historic
kingdoms of Scotland during this period is quite limited because of the dearth of historical
sources and identified archaeological remains, and as such Aberlady is an exciting site. The
disc-headed pin with its Mercian-style beast is of a very high quality, and openwork of this
quality is difficult to parallel among Anglo-Saxon metalwork. The amount of 8th century
metalwork from across England is really quite limited and so this is an important addition and
an outlier in terms of distribution. The east coast seems to have been a vital means of
communication during the Early Historic period in terms of travel, trade and the transmission
of ideas. As such it is likely that, in addition to being on a pilgrimage route to Iona, it was
also part of an east coast network potentially extending up into Pictland. Mercian influence
has long been identified in Pictish sculpture, and the recovery of a piece of Mercian style
metalwork from Aberlady provides further context to the artistic connections between the two
areas.”
3.7
The name given to the coastal strip between the village and the bay – Kilspindie - offers a
significant pointer to a strong ecclesiastic phase of occupation from at least the 8th Century (the Gaelic
term ‘Cille’ means, cell, church or chapel). The fine carving on the 8th Century cross fragment
discovered when the old manse building was being demolished in 1863 (Annex E) bears strong Celtic
and Northumbrian influences. The carving is described by the British Library as the closest sculptural
representation that exists of the intricate artwork within the celebrated Lindisfarne Gospels. Aberlady
is also referred to as a daughter-house of Lindisfarne. But place names on the overland route between
Aberlady and Lindisfarne also provide evidence of association with bishops from Iona. That
Aberlady was an important early ecclesiastical centre on the route between Iona and Lindisfarne is
given added weight by the metallic Christian finds from the immediate locality (Annex F). Until the
Reformation, it was also a detached parish of Dunkeld, where a new monastic community was
established by the early Celtic church, and to where the relics of St Columba were moved, in the face
of continued Viking raids on Iona.
3.8
A chapel dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary lay within NW corner of the old kirkyard.
There are no surface remains of it but its foundations have been encountered from time to time during
grave digging. The site of the chapel has not been surveyed and, as such, its date is unknown.
However, its location places it centrally on the high ground above the Glebe. Professor Michelle
Brown, long-serving curator of the Lindisfarne Gospels opined, that the resemblance of the site to the
sacred earthworks at Lindisfarne must be more than co-incidental.
Proposed Surveys
3.9
It is proposed to undertake a geophysical resurvey the Glebe Field and a first survey of the
Butcher’s Field to its immediate east. We will undertake also survey a 20 metre strip of the accessible
eastern part of the of the former Kirk Field, now part of the Craigielaw Golf Club, to the immediate
west of the Glebe Field. This will have the following benefits:

Paragraph 4.4 of the 1998 report by CFA for Historic Scotland suggests a survey of the
eastern strip of the Kirk Field, opposite the major anomalies on the west of the Glebe Field,
may prove valuable.

The earlier geophysical surveys of the Glebe Field detected anomalies suggestive of Anglian
period timber halls, ring-groove houses, various enclosures, pits and an avenue running into
the Butcher’s Field. The further geophysical survey work will allow us to determine whether
early remains extend beyond the scheduled and surveyed area, and to explore their nature.

New equipment and more detailed sampling strategies will be employed in the surveys.
These will ensure a comparable and improved dataset across the entire extended area (Glebe
and Butcher’s Fields). The proposed surveys will employ a multiplexer frame and a
Bartington gradiometer.

If further anomalies are detected on the unscheduled Butchers’ Field, the geophysical surveys
will be followed by the excavation by hand of selected small trenches with a view to greatly
increasing our understanding of the activities that took place on the site.

The proposed surveys and small scale excavations in the Butcher’s Field will enable us to
form a better understanding of the national importance of the entire site.
Resistivity survey
3.10
The standard archaeological technique for resistance surveys uses a twin probe configuration.
One current and one potential electrode (the remote or static probes) are fixed firmly in the ground a
set distance away from the area being surveyed. The other current and potential electrodes (the
mobile probes) are mounted on a frame and are moved from one survey point to the next. Each time
the mobile probes make a good contact with the ground an electrical circuit is formed between the
current electrodes and the potential gradient between the mobile and remote probes is measured and
stored in the memory of the instrument. A Geoscan RM15 resistance meter will be used with the
instrument logging each reading automatically at lm intervals on traverses lm apart. A multiplexer
allows survey at two mobile probe spacings (0.5 and 1m) simultaneously and gives two depths of
outputs and thus an improved result.
Gradiometer survey
3.11
The Bartington gradiometer offers an efficient means of undertaking a high-resolution
sampling strategy. It will be used to take readings at 0.25m intervals on zig-zag traverses lm apart
within 20m by 20m grids, such that 1600 readings will be taken in each grid. These readings are
stored in the memory of the instrument and are later downloaded to computer for processing and
interpretation. Geoplot 3 software will be used to process and present both the resistivity and
gradiometer data. The data will be interpreted and presented at suitable scales and located on base
maps. Large-scale (X-Y trace and greyscale and/or dot density) plots and interpretations will also be
presented.
Excavation
3.12
Depending on the nature of any anomalies detected, four to six trenches up to c.5m by 2m
will be excavated. It is not proposed to carry out any trench excavation work on the scheduled Glebe
Field.
3.13
The surveys will be carried out by Aberlady Conservation Society and other local community
volunteers under the supervision of CFA Archaeology.
(b) The Harbour Quay
Context
3.14
Aberlady was designated a port by royal charters dating back as far as 1149 and subsequently
reaffirmed at various times over the next half millennium until it was confirmed as the 'Port of
Haddington' by Act of Parliament in 1633. The trade from the port – and related activities e.g.
weaving – brought prosperity to the town. Almost 100 years earlier in 1535, the burgesses of
Haddington ordered the building of a harbour at the port. Funds were later made available in 1630 for
repair work. Adair’s map of 1682 shows clear evidence of a quay and a ship at anchor in its lee.
However, in 1691 the Burgh Records of Haddington disclose a reducing income from customs and
that an “extra-ordinary expense” would be required to keep the harbour functioning to the required
capacity. In the 1790s, Sir John Sinclair’s Statistical Account for Aberlady recorded that ‘at spring
tides vessels of 60 or 70 tons may come up the Peffer to within a few hundred yards of Aberlady.’
Copies of the posted Anchorage Dues payable in 1769 and 1831, including those for ships of 300 tons
and more.
3.15
In the Statistical Account of 1837, the then minister repeated what his predecessor had
written, adding that “ships were then not able to get out to sea easily, when the wind was westerly and
that trade then was ‘trifling.’ By the 1840s, with the coming of the railways, the trade had become
trifling.” The last recorded shipment into the port appears to have been 1875, shortly after it had been
purchased from Haddington by the Hopes of Luffness and the then Earl of Wemyss. The heyday of
the port appears to have been around 1670.
3.16
Existing research also tells us that the harbour at Aberlady was a centre of international
economic activity from at least the fourteenth century onwards as goods and raw materials flowed out
in and out of the Royal Burgh of Haddington and its hinterland. Wool, sheepskins and hides were
shipped from the port in vast quantities. As such, Aberlady Bay and the harbour facilities were
crucial to the continued economic viability and success of Haddington and surrounding countryside
throughout the medieval period and beyond.
3.17
The very recently discovered timber and stone structure in the salt-marsh is possibly that built
(or possibly repaired) in 1535. The site is directly opposite the site of the former Customs House,
known as the Town of Haddington’s House (see location plan) built one year later. The
archaeological record of the surface remains of the quay visible in May 2006 is attached at Annex H.
3.18
Virtually no archaeological work has been undertaken on this type of quay site in Scotland.
In addition to understanding the cycle of construction on this particular site, the water depths then
available, and how the harbour contributed to Aberlady’s development and that of Haddington, the
discovery of this quay presents a real opportunity to learn more about how, and when, built harbour
facilities were first constructed, and what form the earliest structure here took.
Proposed Survey
3.19
The methodology to attempt to derive the quay’s morphology and date will include
excavation by hand of several small trenches of c.2m x 1m along the line of the probable quay to
explore its depth and extent, the construction methodology of the timber uprights and horizontals and
the stone work. Timber samples will be taken to date the wooden used in the structure. A metal
detecting survey of the site will also be carried out and all finds and other dating evidence carefully
recorded.
(c) The Smugglers' Cave.
Context
3.20
The “Smugglers’ Cave” is known as such by some of the older population of Aberlady
through legends of smuggling taking place in the locality. However, the exact location of the cave
was not known beyond its general situation along the Kilspindie coast. These smuggling days are
depicted in a historical novel, based in the village, by James Pringle Reid– The Skipper’s Daughters –
and his historical guide to the village includes lines of verse relating to local smugglers and their
activities. It is believed that evidence of the contraband seized by the authorities at Aberlady lies
within the national archives.
3.21
In 2006, Aberlady Conservation Society were presented with a map of the internal layout of
the cave as it was in 1890. Shortly afterwards, the Society was presented with a copy of a letter dated
December 1940 from the cartographer, Thomas Murray, to the then Early of Wemyss describing the
internal condition of the cave. The details contained in these documents and the identification of the
location of a cave in the 1854 OS Map, enabled the site of the entrance to be located, as shown in the
location plan. A stone and sand mortar wall emerging from the cliff face matches the description of
the structure as described in the historical novel and the layout map and letter by Thomas Young. A
copy of the layout map and the letter of December 1940 from Thomas Young are attached at Annex I.
3.22
The back-filled and overgrown entrance to the cave lies beneath land scheduled by Historic
Scotland as an ancient monument because of the concentric crop-mark rings identified in aerial
photography as possible earthworks of an early fort. Physical evidence of these earthworks is
represented in the 1746–1755 Roy map. Whatever the original purpose of the cave, its original, or
modified, purpose must have been such as to make the substantial investment in its construction
worthwhile. It appears from the evidence currently available to have been built with stone walls (the
visible wall is sand-mortared but that be an enhancement), with hidden recesses at various intervals
and with a stone ceiling and sand floor. The available description suggests it is around 50 metres
long, but it may be more extensive. The aim of the proposed survey is to help, through dating and
other evidence, determine its date of construction, its original purpose and its subsequent uses. That
the cave is co-located with the site of an ancient fort raises the possibility that the original use was a
souterrain.
Proposed Survey
3.23
A ground penetrating radar (GPR) survey will be carried out on the ground above the
structure to confirm its course, extent and depth. The GPR survey will be carried out with the
Groundvue system, produced by Utsi Electronics Ltd. The survey will be designed to provide crosssections across the probable route of the tunnel at sufficiently close intervals to suggest its course.
The precise course of the cave will be traced on the ground above the passage using a low frequency
radio-location method.
3.24
The entrance will be investigated by small scale excavation, the aim of which will be to
confirm its location and dimensions; the internal structure of the cave or tunnel walls; and provide a
first indication of the safety of its surviving structure. The accessible parts of the cave will be
surveyed to British Cave Research Association (BCRA) Grade 5d*. This uses a compass,
inclinometer and tape technique which can cope with small passage dimensions if the cave is partly
filled in. The surveying team will look for and note archaeological finds as they progress. These will
not be disturbed until properly recorded. GSG members with experience of archaeological digs will
complete the recording and collecting - possibly in conjunction with CFA staff.
3.25
The report on the survey will be a short report detailing the work done, with illustrative output
in two- and three-dimensional format and including plans of the cave and its grid references. Total
radar output will not be included in the report but will be made available in digital format. A detailed
photographic record will be made of the passage during exploration and surveying. In the event that
the course of the cave is not established, the reasons for this will be given.
*British Cave Research Association Grade 5a - highest grade of compass/clino survey with angles accurate to 1
degree and positions and distances controlled to +/-10cm.
Health and Safety
3.26
All CFA staff have been inducted into CFA's Health and Safety Policy. CFA's Health and
Safety advisors, Dr Mike Cressey and George Mudie, are accredited by a nationally recognised Health
and Safety in Archaeology Programme. Volunteer groups will be covered under CSA indemnity, will
be inducted into CFA’s Health and Safety Policy prior to commencement of fieldwork and equipped
with all necessary personal protective equipment.
3.27
A risk assessment will be drawn up for each aspect of the work and will take into account all
the procedures necessary to minimise the risk of injury to staff and volunteers. Each trench or test pit
will have to be assessed whether it poses any risks to not only the professional staff but also the
community workers. If any noxious materials are exposed during the excavation then all work will
cease until any potential hazards have been assessed.
3.28
In relation to surveying the Smugglers’ Cave, all members of the GSG are members of the
British Caving Association and hence are in its public liability insurance scheme. This covers caving
for members during their caving and related activities. The main problem with what is undoubtedly a
man-made construction is instability in the walls and roof. GSG members have had many years of
experience in underground exploration and excavation and we will not progress past dangerous areas
until they are adequately shored. A plan for obtaining and transporting the necessary material to the
cave will be implemented if shoring up proves necessary. Of course there may be enough material on
site if opening up the entrance has already required shoring.
3.29
There is mention of 'foul air' on the 1890s plan. The strata at Kilspindie are the lower
limestones and calciferous sandstones of Carboniferous age. These lie geologically well under the
main coal measures. In some areas these strata are reported to contain small coal or oil shale deposits
so it is vaguely possible there might be some inflammable gas (fire damp) or heightened carbon
dioxide level (black damp) in the cave when it is opened. A more detailed review of the local geology
before the project starts will give a much better idea of whether that is possible. If so, adequate time
for ventilation to dissipate any gas should be given after the entrance is opened and before anybody
enters. This should be done in any case as decaying organic remains can also lead to depressed
oxygen and heightened carbon dioxide levels. Other than the above, normal caving practice will be
followed. There will certainly not be any risk of falls, one of the main causes of caving accidents.
Permissions
3.30
For each of the survey sites, permission to the work proceeding has been obtained from the
owners, East Lothian Council, responsible for the management of the Aberlady Bay Nature Reserve,
and Scottish Natural Heritage in relation to its interests in the Nature Reserve. However, the owners
of the Butcher’s Field are reluctant to give carte blanche permission for any excavations following the
completion of the non-intrusive geophysical surveys. Rather they would prefer that specific owner
permission for the excavation of small scale trenches in the Butchers’ Field is sought at the
appropriate time. We do not anticipate any difficulty in gaining these permissions.
3.31
Historic Scotland has confirmed that Scheduled Monument Consent will be required for the
proposed excavation of the tunnel entrance and that S42 consent will be required for the geophysical
survey work on the land above and the proposed geophysical work at the Glebe Field adjoining the
Butchers’ Field. Historic Scotland has not given any reason to believe that these permissions will not
be given.
4. HISTORICAL RESEARCH
4.1
The research already carried out by Aberlady Conservation Society will be augmented by
further historical research to be undertaken under the direction of Professor Richard Oram,
Department of History, University of Stirling. In addition, cartographic research will be carried out to
place the known archaeological sites in their historical landscape context and the aerial photographs
of the scheduled cropmark site above the entrance to the tunnel will be rectified.
4.2
The documentary record relating to Aberlady extends back to at least the twelfth century, by
which time it was already closely linked to the royal burgh of Haddington. The post-medieval records
relating to Aberlady are substantial and survive in a number of manuscript collections. The richest
repositories include:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
Barony of Aberlady.
Papers of the Viscounts & Baron of Elibank.
Papers of the Hope family of Luffness.
Papers of East Lothian Field Naturalist & Antiquarian Society.
Papers of Messrs Tod, Murray & Jamieson.
Papers of the Earls of Morton.
Papers of the Earls of Stair.
Papers of the Gilmour family of Craigmillar & Liberton.
Maxwell of Munches Papers.
Records of Dunbar burgh.
Records of Haddington burgh.
Wallace James Notebooks.
Douglas Collection
Customs books
4.3
In addition, there are numerous papers relating to Aberlady in a variety of smaller archive
collections, and there are also several ‘stray’ papers to be found in the Register House series. There
are also a number of surviving estate plans and maps relating to the lands in question.
4.4
An exhaustive collation, examination and analysis of this dispersed archive is a project that
would involve several months work, even when building upon the body of work already undertaken.
For example, the Haddington court books alone run to over fifty volumes and would all need to be
searched for references to Aberlady. Such a detailed research programme, however, is unfeasible at
this stage and a targeted sampling strategy offers the best means of providing an assessment of the
quality, quantity and content of the surviving documentary record. The main thrust of the sampling
would pursue four principal lines:

Sample the main pre-1560 sources to provide an overview of medieval activity on the site.

Sample the principal post-Reformation family, barony, burgh, and customs papers to identify
records relating to Aberlady, the harbour, Kilspindie, and shipping activities (both legal and
illegal).

Evaluate the map and plan collections.
4.5
The evaluation of the unpublished documentary record would be undertaken in conjunction
with completing the general survey of the published primary sources and the principal secondary
works relating to the area.
Output
4.6
The primary output of this sampling strategy will be a document that will:

identify the strengths and weaknesses of the record.

assist in the formulation of the excavation/survey strategies through identification of key
elements of the past human landscape.

provide a coherent narrative for the site’s history.

present a programme for future work.

propose projects within the overall research strategy appropriate for community involvement
(e.g. oral history, census search etc).
Timescale
4.7
The sampling exercise will take 15 days to complete, comprising 12 days of archival and
library research and 3 days for the writing up of the report. This work should be undertaken in
advance of any archaeological fieldwork.
5. PRODUCTS
5.1
The products of the project will include:

A press release will be prepared.

At least one full academic article on the findings of the surveys.

A summary article for submission to the East Lothian Life magazine.

A public lecture will be given for the East Lothian One Day Archaeological Conference and if
possible the Archaeological Research in Progress conference.

If possible, a Public Open Day with guided tour will be held in September 2008 as part of
Scottish Archaeological Week and East Lothian Archaeology Week.

A report detailing the methods and results of the work, including the. historical research and
also a mitigation strategy for any significant remains discovered during the excavation. This
report will contain an account of the site archive, fulfilling all the requirements of an Historic
Scotland Data Structure Report.

A report in layman's terms for use by the local community of what the surveys reveal about
the historical importance of the local area, with sketches where appropriate.

A summary report for Discovery and Excavation in Scotland.

A digital copy of both reports with plans and DES entry on CD in a PDF format.
5.2
The project archive, comprising all CFA record sheets, plans and reports, will be deposited
with the National Monuments Record of Scotland within six months of completion of fieldwork and
any relevant post-excavation analyses. Finds will be subject to the Scots law of Treasure Trove and
Bona Vacantia, and will be reported to the Crown Agent for disposal.
6. INTERPRETATION & LEARNING
6.1
Our interpretation will encourage people within the community and beyond to think about and
learn from the past and to value the rich heritage of Aberlady and its place in the development
of its hinterland and Scotland as a whole. It is aimed at the following main groups:

The Community
Increasing awareness and a sense of ownership and pride within the community, young and
old, of the village’s rich heritage.

Local School
Encouraging the local school teaching staff to use our local heritage as a teaching and
learning resource and the school-children to view history as something living rather than an
abstract concept.

Heritage Tourists
Encouraging heritage tourism from within the immediate area, East Lothian, and farther afield
also. East Lothian Council has stated its aspirations to develop awareness of the county’s
early Christian heritage and the pilgrimage centres and routes running through it. The
interpretation of this project supports that objective and will play a significant part in meeting
it (see Annex A).
6.2
A number of media are to be employed in the proposed interpretation elements of the project.

Heritage Leaflets
It is proposed to design and have published 5000 full colour, folded A3 leaflets. These will
be distributed at all local outlets and are aimed at a general audience. In addition, an artwork
heritage map, identifying the key locations of historic interest will be commissioned.

Guided Heritage Tours and Talks
A number of guided tours have already been undertaken by Aberlady Conservation Society,
with excellent feedback from the general public and heritage participants. These have been
preceded by a presentation of about 40 minutes. The entire talk and tour takes up to 3 hours.
The tours will be promoted via local hotel websites, Aberlady Conservation Society website
(under construction) and within the Heritage promotional leaflets. Specific tours will also be
undertaken for younger groups. For older people unable to take in the tours, the talks will be
extended.
Invited guest speakers will also be invited to give talks on the themes presented by the
findings when these opportunities present themselves. Dr Michelle Brown, University of
London and former Curator of the Lindisfarne Gospels has already accepted such an
invitation.

Teaching Packs
Teaching packs based on the findings of the survey work and associated research will be
prepared in conjunction with the local school staff and will developed in keeping with the
school curricula. In this way, we can be sure that the local children can lean about their own
local heritage in their mainstream school studies, rather an add-on extra-curricular activity.

Interpretative Panels
Six panels (A0 size) featuring artwork commissioned by heritage artist David Simon will be
commissioned. These will interpret the project findings and the origins of the village as we
know them by depicting five scenes from the past frozen in time. See example interpretative
artwork at Annex J. The final panel will be more text based, basically introducing the panels
to the viewers. Our plan is that these panels, rather than being interspersed at the various sites
where we believe they would look out of keeping in these environments, they should be
grouped together in an inner courtyard wall immediately off the High Street. Here they will
be accessible by the general public, school groups and heritage tourists.

Harbour Cairn
Although we believe the panels would be out of place at the sites being interpreted, we
believe we need to lay a marker by way of a cairn on the point opposite the quay and between
it and the former Customs House building. The cairn would be therefore built on the grassed
overflow carpark for Kilspindie Club House, immediately overlooking the anchorage. Given
the environment of the bay, the cairn would be reasonably low level so as not to be intrusive.
We believe a cairn built from the same sandstone slabs as appear to have been used in the
construction of the quay, topped by an inscribed bronze plaque would be an appropriate
interpretation of the activity that took place here. Its dimensions would be [enter]

Aberlady Cross
A central aim is to mark the importance of Aberlady during the early years of the Christian
church, and its likely origins, by erecting a replica of the 8thC Aberlady cross. The cross
demonstrates clear and strong links with the monastic centres of Iona and Lindisfarne. The
cross would present a very visual interpretative focus of the village’s rich background as an
important centre of the early Christian church in Scotland. It would also feature significantly
in East Lothian Council’s aspirations for early Christian heritage trails within the county.
Research has confirmed marked similarities between the carving of the Aberlady cross
fragment and those of the Abercorn cross. Both Aberlady and Abercorn were detached
parishes of Dunkeld where Columba’s relics were moved to avoid further Viking raids and
both are described as daughter-houses of Lindisfarne. One expert source suggests that the
two crosses may have been carved by the same hand. From existing research on the Abercorn
cross we know what its dimensions would have been (Annex K), and assuming both crosses
were of similar height, where the Aberlady fragment would have been situated on its own
cross. We have taken the advice of a stone carving expert experienced in ecclesiastical stone
sculpture and are confident that a reconstruction of the Aberlady Cross can be achieved using
the evidence from the remaining fragment and those from the Abercorn Cross. We are in
discussion with East Lothian Council about appropriate accessible sites for the cross in the
historic core of the village.

Archaeology Workshops
In addition to the above means of interpretation, the opportunity will also be taken to provide
a number of workshops for local school pupils on the science of archaeology and its practical
implementation. This will include the purpose of geophysical surveys and how the equipment
works; the principles of excavation, recording and dating; and how the evidence presented
allows us to improve our understanding of the past, our ancestors and their activities. The
workshop will include metal detecting surveys.

Stone Carving Workshop
Two workshops will also be provided on art of high quality stone carving, including that to be
employed during the sculpture and erection of the Aberlady Cross (see above).
Permissions
6.2
East Lothian Council has confirmed that planning consent will be required for the erection of
the reconstructed Aberlady Cross. No difficulties are anticipated. Discussions with East
Lothian Council about the most appropriate site for the reconstructed cross are ongoing.
Enquiries
This Project Description was prepared by Aberlady Conservation Society
Enquiries should be directed to:
Ian Malcolm
Secretary
Aberlady Conservation Society
Luffness Court
ABERLADY EH32 0SE
T. 01875 870075
E. ian@aberladybay.com
ANNEXES
Annex A:
Letters of Support
Annex B:
Location Plan
Annex C:
CFA Survey Reports of the Glebe Field, 1995 and 1998
Annex D:
Examples of Anglo-Saxon metallic finds (courtesy of National Museums of Scotland)
Annex E:
Aberlady cross fragment
Annex F:
Early Christian metallic finds (courtesy of National Museums of Scotland)
Annex G:
Anchorage Dues 1769 and 1831
Annex H:
Archaeological record of the harbour quay, May 2006.
Annex I:
Internal map of the “Smugglers’ Cave” and the letter of December 1940 from
Thomas Murray describing its condition as it was in 1890.
Annex J:
Example of interpretative artwork by David Simon
Annex K:
Abercorn cross fragments
Annex L:
Representation of reconstructed cross
Annex M:
Grampian Speleological Group
Annex N:
CFA Archaeology
Annex O:
Bibliography
Annex M
GRAMPIAN SPELEOLOGICAL GROUP
The Grampian Speleological Group has over 140 members and is Scotland's oldest and largest caving
club (founded 1961). Its members have many years of experience finding, exploring and surveying
caves in all parts of Scotland. Many members have been involved in similar activities world-wide,
particularly in Meghalaya, India in recent years. The Group is interested in all things subterranean and
has a long history of exploring abandoned mines and other underground man-made constructions. We
do see that as part of our raison d'être and welcome the opportunity to assist ACS in this project.
The Group publishes a bi-annual Bulletin and a series of cave guides for the main Scottish caving
areas. Membership skills are not restricted to caving, but include archaeology, geology, botany, and
surveying. Members of the Group have, under contract, produced several reports for Scottish Natural
Heritage on caves in Assynt and Durness. The majority of the more experienced members of the GSG
are also members of the Scottish Cave Rescue Organisation. This is a member team of the Mountain
Rescue Committee of Scotland and provides a rescue service for cavers over all of Scotland.
GSG Cave Guides
Caves of Skye
Caves of Assynt
Caves of Schichallion
The Southern Highlands
Appin Cave Guide
Appin Cave Guide Supplement
Reports for Scottish Natural Heritage
Survey of caves around the Bone Caves SAM, Assynt, 1997
Caves of the Creag nan Uamh Area RSM No 184, 2002
The geomorphological evolution of Smoo Cave and the immediate surrounding area
Commissioned Report No 086 (ROAME No. F02AC105), 2005
A baseline survey of the significant cave features in the Ben More Assynt SSSI
ANNEX N
CFA ARCHAEOLOGY
CFA Archaeology Ltd (CFA) is a professional cultural heritage consulting and contracting
organisation based in Musselburgh, East Lothian. CFA provides services on a range of projects
principally including desk-based assessments; field monument and historic building survey and
recording; EIA cultural heritage studies; field evaluations; excavations; post-excavation analyses,
publication, design and illustration. Clients range from leading multinational corporations and
government agencies to local government bodies and single partner consultancies.
CFA’s area of business focuses on Scotland and Northern England, but extends to include other parts
of Great Britain, Europe and the Middle East. We can respond quickly to clients’ needs and have
ample capacity to conduct simultaneous assessments - at present we are conducting several similar
scale and larger projects concurrently for separate clients.
CFA is an Institute of Field Archaeologists (IFA) Registered Archaeological Organisation (RAO).
This status is a form of quality assurance conferred by the IFA and is a sign of our commitment to
provide the highest standard of professional service
ANNEX O
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Baptie, D 2006 The Harbour at Aberlady. A report commissioned by Aberlady Conservation Society.
Brown, M 2003 Painted Labyrinth: The World of the Lindisfarne Gospels, British Library.
Calder, c 1938 Fragments of Sculptured Cross, West Lothian.
Canmore Database Aberlady, St Mary’s Chapel, RCAHMS
David, A 1995 Geophysical survey in archaeological field evaluation, English Heritage Research &
Professional Services Guideline No 1.
Taylor, S 1999 Seventh-century Iona Abbots in Scottish Place-names in Spes Scotorum, Hope of
Scots: Saint Columba, Iona, and Scotland. Edited by Dauvit Brown and Thomas Owen Clancy.
Edinburgh: T & T Clark.
Ziegler, M Oswald and the Irish in The Heroic Age, Issue 4, Winter 2001
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