Beach Profile: From Seas to Sediments
Oceanography Activity
Adapted by Steve Oden, MathScience Innovation Center, and Chris Lundberg,
MathScience Innovation Center, from the oceanography curriculum guides “Man and the
Sea” (1970) R. Wesley Batten, Ed., and Exploring Inner Space” (1975) Marvin E.
Hedgepeth, Ed., originally developed by the staff of the Mathematics & Science Center.
Developed with funding from the MathScience Innovation Center.
Objective
A Beach Profile is a standard method for describing and understanding
the characteristics and origin of a coastal area. In this activity, you will
develop a beach profile by conducting an analysis of the features of a
coastline area, including sediments and sand particles, the interaction of
weather and wave motion, grasses and other vegetation, and the analysis
of water samples. Conducting a beach profile at different times during the
year is useful to document seasonal changes.
Background
Developing a beach profile includes the study of weather and water as
well as the composition of the beach itself. Not surprisingly, most
persons think of sand when the term “beach” is mentioned. Sand is, of
course, a very common substance found in beaches and a major
component of sediment deposits. By identifying the components of sand,
one can determine what sand is made of as well as the origin of the sand.
Sands can be classified into two types, abiogenic and biogenic sand.
Abiogenic sands are the inorganic minerals from eroded pieces of rocks.
They are formed from weathering and erosion of rocks in the continental
crust or the oceanic crust of the earth. These include granite which is
broken down into quartz and feldspar. Also, magnetic mineral grains
such as magnetite, other minerals such as mica, and various man-made
materials can be found in abiogenic sands. The sands of most beaches
along he coasts of the continental United States are called quartz sands
because quartz is their most abundant resistant component. The second
type of sand, biogenic sand, is made of the skeletal remains of plants and
animals. These are sometimes called calcium sands because of the
calcium carbonate material that makes up the bones and shells of marine
organisms. Most of these sands are composed of fragments of corals,
microscopic algae, and mollusks.
Understanding the sands and sediments that form a beach are critical to
developing a beach profile and understanding beach characteristics and
Beach Profile: From Seas to Sediments
Oceanography Activity
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©MathScience Innovation Center 2007
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the local marine environment.
Safety
Remember to follow your regular classroom rules for lab safety.
Materials
Soil Sieves
Wave Height Rod
Compass
Soil Sieve Set
Small Shovels
Paper & pencils
Plastic bags
Anemometer
Collecting jars/dishes
Barometer
Collecting Equipment
Balance
50 meter tape
Microscopes
Metric rulers, Meter Sticks
Beach Profile Answer Sheets
Petri dishes
Sand Analysis Guide
Beach Profiler & 5 stakes
Note: You will need to construct a Beach Profiler prior to conducting
this activity. See Make a Beach Profiler for directions.
Procedure
Part I. Beach Profile
1. Using the 5 alignment stakes, mark the beach length to be profiled.
Make sure that the profile is perpendicular to the shoreline and lies
in a straight line.
2. Conduct an overview of your profile by making and recording the
following observations on your profile map:
a. location of sampling sites you will use
b. intertidal zone
c. line of vegetation
d. location of large depositions such as driftwood, shells,
drift algae, trash, etc.
3. Now, take the profiler to the alignment stake farthest from the
shoreline. Align the profiler with the alignment stakes. Hold the
rods of the profiler vertically.
From Seas to Sediments
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Beach Profile:
Oceanography Activity
4. Stand behind the rear rod and sight toward the horizon.
Adjust your eve level so that the top edge of the front rod is aligned
with the horizon. Note where your line of vision intersects the metric
scale on the rear rod. Record this measurement. It represents the
vertical component drop present in 150 cm of beach slope.
Using the Beach Profiler to Determine Slope
5. Now, move the profiler forward 150 cm on the beach, placing the
rear rod in the hole formed previously by the front rod.
6. Repeat steps 3 & 4 to continue profiling to the waters edge and on
into the shallow water if conditions permit.
7. Draw a diagram of the profile of the beach and label the various
parts of the beach. Make sure to map the intertidal zone.
Part II. Sand Sample Analysis
1. Select a site along the shore to obtain your sample. Record this
along the beach profile diagram.
2. Use a large coffee can to collect a sample of sand from your site in
a large pan and spread out evenly. Allow the sample to dry.
Weigh out a 200 gram sample.
3. Sift your sample by assembling the sieves in order of their mesh
size (large grid opening on top to smallest grid mesh on bottom
pan).
4. Transfer your sample to the top sieve and agitate/shake the entire
assembly sideways for three minutes.
5. Transfer the contents onto a piece of weighing paper and weigh
the contents for each sample. Calculate the percent of each size by
dividing the mass of each sieve sample by the mass of the entire
sample. Record your data.
6. Save the samples for later analysis in a marked plastic bag, or
continue to step 7.
7. Place a sample from each sieve size into a small Petri dish. Use
Beach Profile: From Seas to Sediments
Oceanography Activity
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©MathScience Innovation Center 2007
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the stereo dissection microscope to perform the following:
a. Count and classify 100 particles from each sieve sample to
identify the different particle shapes. Record your data.
b. Record your observations for any fossils or animal casts found in
the sample.
Part III. Wave and Weather Analysis
1. Use your anemometer, wind vane, compass, and barometer to
measure and record the wind speed (or use Beaufort Scale), wind
direction, barometric pressure.
2. Determine the wave height using the wave height rod. Hold the
rod vertically and record the height when a crest passes and when
a trough passes.
3. Repeat step 4 three times to determine an average wave height and
record your data (wave height is the distance between the crest and
trough).
4. Determine the wave frequency by counting the number of waves
that pass your wave height rod over a 30 second period, or count
the number of crests that break on the shore. Record your data in
the number of waves per minute.
5. Determine the wave length as follows:
a. Beginning at the shore, count outward the number of
waves you recorded for waves/minute (eg. Count five
crests outward from shore).
b. Place your hand above your eyes until the last wave is at
the bottom edge of your hand. Now, rotate your head to
the right and sight a spot on the beach at the bottom edge
of your hand.
c. Pace and measure the distance to that spot. This is an
estimate of the distance of a wave traveled in one minute.
d. Divide this distance by your number for wave frequency.
This will give you an estimate of the wave length. Record
your data for the wavelength.
6. Determine the wave direction as follows:
e. Using your compass, draw a line on the beach which
corresponds with magnetic north.
f. Observe the waves on the beach and draw a line on the
beach parallel to the wave front which intersects the north
line.
g. Now, draw a perpendicular line from the wave front line
directly toward the incoming waves.
h. Measure the angle of the perpendicular line to the magnetic
north line. Record this measurement. This is your wave
direction.
Beach Profile: From Seas to Sediments
Oceanography Activity
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©MathScience Innovation Center 2007
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Determining Wave Direction
Part IV. Water Sample Analysis
1. Obtain a sample of water from your site. Use your bottom sample
to obtain your sample.
2. Use a refractometer or a hydrometer to test and record the salinity.
3. Use scientific probeware or equipment from a water-testing kit to
determine the level dissolved oxygen of your sample.
4. Use probeware or a thermometer to test and record the water
temperature.
5. Use probeware or equipment from a water test kit to test and
record the pH.
6. Use a secchi disk to determine and record the turbidity of the
water.
7. Note the appearance of the water along the shore and record your
observations.
Data Analysis
Record your results in the attached data tables.
Conclusion /
Questions
Answer the questions below in the space provided.
1. How are waves and the features of beaches related?
2. Which would create higher waves: high or low winds?
3. Which type of alongshore current would you expect to
carry more sand: a fast current or a slow current?
4. Does the general appearance of a beach change with the
seasons? Explain why or why not.
5. What information from conducting a beach profile would
be most useful for a person owning beach front property?
Explain your answer.
Beach Profile: From Seas to Sediments
Oceanography Activity
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©MathScience Innovation Center 2007
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Extensions
Explore Ocean Drilling. Research how the petroleum industry conducts
drilling experiments to analyze sediments for evidence of fossil fuels.
Check out the following sites to begin your search:
Ocean Drilling Program -- http://www-odp.tamu.edu/
Living Oceans Society -- http://www.livingoceans.org/
Design a Beach Project. Is there a relationship between particle size and
a beach’s profile? Collect sand samples from different beaches or
different areas of one beach and use a dissection microscope to conduct
your investigation.
Beach Cam! If you are unable to take a trip to the beach, make your
observations via a beach web cam. Check out current beach conditions in
the Chesapeake Bay and in Florida by logging on to these web sites!
Chesapeake Bay Web Cam
http://thechesapeakebay.com/hhs_webcam.shtml
Florida Beach Cam
http://virtualvolusia.com/Canaveral.html
Old Coast Guard Station – Tower Cam at Virginia Beach
http://www.oldcoastguardstation.com/towercam.aspx
Go further with your beach analysis by performing the following:
Magnetic Sediments Test. Test your sediments for traces of
magnetite by using a magnet.
Calcium Sediments Test. Test your sediment for shell material by
adding a drop to dilute HCl to your sample. The presence of calcium
carbonate will cause your sample to bubble and fizz.
Calculate Shore Current Speeds. Calculate the speed of a long
shore current by following these steps:
1. Using your measuring line, measure of 20 meters along
the beach parallel to the shore.
2. Direct 5 group members take a bobber and enter the water
“upstream” in a line perpendicular to the shore, spacing
themselves 3-5 meters apart.
3. Have them release the bobbers and then record the time it
takes for each bobber to travel the 20 meter distance.
Record your data. This is your long shore current speed.
Beach Profile: From Seas to Sediments
Oceanography Activity
http://mathinscience.info
©MathScience Innovation Center 2007
6
References
“Beaches: A Geological Study,” in Coastal/Oceanic Awareness Studies
(COAST) by the Marine Environment Curriculum Study, Marine
Advisory Service, University of Delaware (Fall, 1974)
Exploring Inner Space: A Guide to Teaching Marine Science.
Hedgepeth, Marvin E., editor. Curriculum resource developed by the
Mathematics & Science Center, Richmond, Virginia. 1975.
Man and the Sea: A Curriculum Guide to Oceanography. Batten, R.
Wesley (1970). The Mathematics & Science Center, Richmond, Virginia.
“Secrets of Sand,” by E. Barbara Klemm and Dorothy Wendt, in THE
FLUID EARTH (3rd Edition, 1990) Hawaii Marine Science Studies
Program (HMSS), College of Education, University of Hawaii at Manoa.
The Source Book of Marine Sciences. Dobkin, S., Hammond, B., Hon,
W., and Kapp, F. editors. 1980. The Florida Oceanographic Society, Inc.
Beach Profile: From Seas to Sediments
Oceanography Activity
http://mathinscience.info
©MathScience Innovation Center 2007
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