DYEING
Dyeing one’s own feathers, etc., is a most interesting adjunct to the art of fly-tying.
Most tyers are under the impression that it is a messy and unprofitable business, but it
need not be so.
The old fashioned methods, although quite effective were very complicated, but the
aniline dyes now procurable have greatly simplified matters.
These dyes can be bought from any fishing tackle shop that stocks fly-tying materials,
or from the firms specialising in the sale of these items. The range of colours, some
two score in number, covers all needs and as these dyes have not been adulterated like
most textile dyes, they are very economical to use.
The only utensils necessary for small quantities are a small aluminium milk saucepan
and another slightly larger. The small saucepan is first perforated with small holes
over the sides and bottom with an awl until it becomes like a collander, or if you wish
a wire potato chip basket is ideal. This is for holding the material to be dyed and will
stand inside the larger utensil. This collander will take quite a quantity of small
feathers and any fur to be dyed. Larger feathers may be cut to fit the receptacle.
The object of the perforated saucepan (or collander) is for the easy control of the
dyeing process and inspection of the material while dyeing. Also it is a very clean
method as the hands need not come in contact with the dye solution.
Furs and feathers must be treated before dyeing. The usual process is quite simple.
Using the larger saucepan, prepare a solution of soap powder or any good detergent.
Place the feathers to be dyed in the smaller perforated saucepan (collander) and soak
for a few minutes (Waterfowl feathers must be soaked considerably longer to allow
penetration of the natural oil coating).
The feathers must now be well rinsed. This is quite simple with the collander. Just
lift it out of the larger saucepan and place in a bowl of clean warm water, repeating
this until all trace of soap is removed. Held under a hot tap the process is even more
simpler.
If the material is only being cleaned, then it should be thoroughly rinsed in warm
water before being spread out to dry.
Also to-day we have the added advantage of modern detergents and de-greasers
which are thoroughly recommended. They are quick to use and very effective. See
directions as follows for the use of VENPOL and DE-GREASER, which are the best in
this field.
Draw enough hot water into a bowl to immerse the material. Add VENPOL and
swish water into lather before adding the material to be cleaned or dyed. Half fluid
oz VENPOL is sufficient in 4 pints of water (1 part in 160). Allow soaking time
according to the material. Hackles require only a few minutes but waterfowl feathers,
quills and hair considerably longer.
VENPOL is so pure that unless the material is very dirty, rinsing is not necessary
prior to dyeing.
VENPOL is not a de-greasing agent but a very effective liquid detergent. Remember
to us it sparingly.
The use of a de-greaser is advised for removing the obstinate oil and grease from
Hair and Feathers before dyeing and is particularly recommended for Buck Tails,
Squirrel Tails, Goat Hair, Seals Fur and all Raw Materials on the Skin, etc.
1.
Soak the material in this solution and work the suds through thoroughly.
Leave to soak for not more than half an hour then rinse thoroughly again
in warm water.
Dye in the usual way and when the desired shade is obtained, add fixative
and rinse well in cold running water.
2.
To dye the more obstinate types of material, i.e., extremely greasy Buck
Tails, etc., a little more de-greaser may be added to the solution. Extreme
caution must be used as this agent is extremely powerful.
Used to excess, feather fibres become distressed and hairs tend to soften,
with a consequent lack of luster after dyeing.
3.
Very greasy hackles on the Skin (Capes) should be processed by soaking in
a solution of ½% VENIARD DE-GREASER in water only. Rinse in warm
water to remove the surface film before dyeing.
Now for the actual dyeing, which is simplicity itself.
Fill the larger saucepan with water a little more than half full and stand over a gentle
heat. Add one quarter of a teaspoonful of dye powder to one quart of water for
feathers from land birds, double the quantity for material from water fowl and allow
the solution to come to boiling point. Stir thoroughly until completely dissolved then
add one tablespoon full of vinegar (to fix colour).
BLACK & DARK SHADES SHOULD HAVE A MUCH STRONGER DYE
BATH AND PRO RATA MORE VINEGAR.
Put in feathers to be dyed and return to the boil and simmer gently, keeping the
feathers moving all the time.
All dyes are a mixture of 3 colours so it is essential to allow all the colours to
penetrate to obtain the desired shade. They do not fix at the same speed so
withdrawing the feathers too soon could result in the totally wrong shade (bear in
mind feathers appear much darker when wet).
Care must now be taken in order to get the right shade. The collander makes this
quite simple. To inspect the material being dyed you lift the collander out of the large
saucepan containing the dye solution. The water runs out through the holes, leaving
the material at the bottom for inspection. It must be remembered that the material will
be a lighter shade when dry and it may be necessary to add more dye to get the deeper
shades. This is again quite simple with the collander, as it can be lifted and more dye
added to the solution without coming in contact with the material being dyed. You
can get a very good idea of what the shade of feathers will be by watching the quill or
holding up a single feather before the light.
Shades of Red, Yellow, Blue, etc., are quite straightforward but a little experience is
required to obtain the delicate shades of Olives and Duns, etc. The tendency is to use
too much dye. It is much better to start with a little and add as necessary.
At this stage, Black requires a special mention.
It is necessary to use at least one half of a teaspoonful of powder to one quart of water
and the material should be heated for as long as possible. A good tip is to leave the
dye-bath standing over-night to cool. By morning a rich glossy black should be
obtained.
Having obtained the desired shade, remove the collander from the dye solution and
put under a cold water tape until all surplus dye is removed. Press the material
between cloth or paper to absorb most of the moisture.
To bring hackles, etc., back to their natural brilliance, they should be partially dried
and then placed in a cardboard lid. Hold the lid over a gas ring and shake gently until
quite dry. It does not matter how fierce the heat from the ring is, providing the
feathers are kept moving continually.
These directions also apply to furs, wools, etc.
It is remarkable how quickly loose feathers and quills regain their natural sheen when
this simple operation is conducted.
Likewise, material on the skin, i.e., hackle necks, Buck Tails etc., should be lightly
beaten against the palm of one hand, held well above a gas ring or burner.
The range of shades of any particular colour is infinite and doing one’s own dyeing
enables one to test ideas with results that would not otherwise be obtainable.
Rhode Island Red Hackles with dye Claret, Purple or Black and to obtain Honey Dun
or Rusty Dun shades us a White Hackle with a Honey or Red edge to the fibres.
These hackles are freaks but are sometimes obtainable.
Points to remember: (a) Remove all trace of soap from feathers before putting them in
the dye bath. (b) Always keep feathers on the move when at boiling point or just
under. (c) Always remove the material before adding more dye, as otherwise there is
a danger of “spotting”. (d) Do not use a stronger dye bath than necessary. (e) Rinse
well after dyeing. (f) Never dry before a fierce heat as it will take all the life out of
the material. If you follow these simple rules all your efforts should be successful.
For the best results always use Veniard’s dyes and preparations.
FLUORESCENT DYES
These are quite easy to use except that less dye is required and the following
directions must be carefully noted in addition. Pastel shades are best.
Hackles dye up well and fluoresce excellently. However, do not attempt deep shades,
for although you can dye the material dark colours your fluorescence will be masked
by the depth of shade.
These directions also apply to Furs, Wools, etc... Mohair is the best medium as it is
very brilliant. Natural hairs such as Seals Fur, Buck Tail, Goat Hair etc., do not
fluoresce brightly so the shades should be kept as light as possible.
It will be noted that the colours are limited to 8 pastel shades and these can be mixed
as an artist would his paints. For example, Pink and Orange will give salmon pink.
Lime and Blue will give the green for “Teal and Green”, Pink and Blue will give the
magenta for “Silver Wilkinson” etc., etc.
White Fluorescent Dye will fluoresce blue, although the white material will not
change colour. Grey Fluorescent Dye will also fluoresce a shade of blue and here the
colour should be kept as pale as possible, to help get the best fluorescent result. All
the other colours will fluoresce a colour close to the dyed shade and in the case of the
Fluorescent Pink, Fluorescent Lime and Fluorescent Blue, should be kept as light as
possible. A really rich Orange, Scarlet and Yellow can be obtained without fear of
masking the fluorescence.
For the best results use only the whitest and brightest of materials for dyeing.
VENIARD
SPECIAL DYES
FOR FLY-TYERS
GREEN OLIVE
MEDIUM OLIVE
BROWN OLIVE
GOLDEN OLIVE
DARK OLIVE
OLIVE DUN
GREY
BLUE DUN (SLATE
IRON BLUE
GINGER
SUMMER DUCK
FIERY BROWN
CINNAMON
DARK BROWN
BLACK
BRIGHT YELLOW
YELLOW (GOLDEN)
HOT ORANGE
SCARLET/RED
CRIMSON
LT. CLARET
CLARET
MAGENTA
PURPLE
KINGFISHER
LT. BLUE (CAMBRIDGE)
BLUE (TEAL AND BLUE0
DARK. BLUE
BRIGHT GREEN
DARK GREEN
INSECT GREEN
GREEN HIGHLANDER
FLUORESCENT ORANGE
FLUORESCENT YELLOW
FLUORESCENT SCARLET
FLUORESCENT LIME