birding_in_bhutan

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Day 1: Arrival in Bhutan
Depart Kolkata in the morning for Paro, Bhutan, on Druk Air, the national & the only
airline that flies into Bhutan. From here it is another hour to Paro. Upon arrival at Paro
Airport, we will be met by local guide who will drive us to our hotel. On this drive from
the airport to the hotel we may see our first very special species, the Ibisbill.
In the afternoon explore the beautiful valley of Paro, then continue northward toward the
ruins of the Drukgyel Dzong. The valley of Paro is mainly Blue Pine forests, which does
not have the diversity of bird life found in the habitats to the east, but the woodlands
around the Drukgyel Dzong area provide a hint of the great variety that is to come in the
next three weeks. Some of the common species that can be seen in this area include
Black-faced Laughingthrush, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Brown Parrotbill,
Chestnut-tailed Minla, Common Kestrel, Kalij Pheasant, White-collared Blackbird and
Grey-backed Shrike. The more difficult birds we hope to encounter are marshland
species, such as the Black-tailed Crake and the Solitary Snipe.
Paro: elevation - 7600 feet; vegetation - temperate with mainly Blue Pines. Overnight in
hotel in Paro
Day 2: Chele la Pass and evening drive to Thimphu
We'll start early our 90 minute trip to the Chele la Pass. The road winds upward through
the Blue Pine, which slowly changes to higher elevation conifers, such as spruce,
hemlock, fir, and juniper. At the summit the vegetation is mainly dwarf rhododendrons
and open alpine meadows. The pass located at close to 13,000 feet is the highest road in
Bhutan. If skies are clear, we'll get fantastic views of the sacred Mt. Jhomolhari and the
adjacent Mt. Jichu Drake, both are over 20,000 feet. The pass also offers a breathtaking
view of the Haa and Paro valleys. The birds to look out here will be will be the beautiful
Monal Pheasant and other specialties like Blood Pheasants, Spotted Laughingthrushes,
Himlayan Griffon, White-browed Rosefinch, White-throated Redstarts and Collared
Grosbeaks. This is the only place we'll be above treeline in alpine scrub and dwarf
rhododendrons (Rhododendron cinnabarinum, R. lanatum and others).
After breakfast at the pass, we will work our way back to lower elevations, where
resident birds include several species of tits, Red Crossbills, Kalij Pheasants, and Yellowbilled Blue Magpies. For dinner we will arrive in Bhutan's capital, Thimphu, and
overnight in a hotel in Thimphu.
Thimphu: elevation - 7700 feet (2300 meters); vegetation - today mainly Blue Pine and
alpine scrub.
Day 3: Tango and Cheri Valley to Thimphu
Like Paro, the Thimphu valley is relatively dry and is surrounded by Blue Pine forests.
But to the north of the city in the religious valley of Tango and Cheri, the vegetation is
mainly evergreen oak forest. Birds, such as the Crested Kingfisher, Rufous-bellied
Woodpecker, Spotted Nutcracker, Oriental Cuckoo, and Large Hawk Cuckoo are quite
common. We might also encounter the beautiful Fire-tailed Myzornis and the Satyr
Tragopan.
In the afternoon we will have some free time to wander around Thimphu. Later in the
evening we will visit the Thimphu Sewerage Treatment Plant, where the enigmatic
Ibisbill is quite common, along with other shorebirds, such as Green Sandpiper and
Common Sandpiper. White Wagtails and Brown Dipper also enjoy feeding near the
percolation ponds. We may even see the elusive Black-tailed Crake, as well as the
Common Snipe.
Tango and Cheri: elevation - 8500 feet; vegetation - evergreen forests of oak, bamboo
and pines. Overnight in hotel in Thimphu.
Day 4: Thimphu to Jigme Dorji National Park
Depart early for a full morning birding at the Dochula Pass. Here we shall be looking out
for high elevation, mixed evergreen and birds of broadleaf forests. The call of the Hill
Partridge can be heard everywhere. The temperate broadleaved forest of rhododendrons
and magnolias will soon give way to a semi-tropical zone, where banana and orange trees
are cultivated in abundance. Here we will look out for Eurasian Treecreeper, Golden
Bush-Robin, Eurasian Jay, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Plain-backed Thrush, Great Barbet
and perhaps even the rare Ward's Trogon. The sudden appearance of low elevation
species, such as Red-vented Bulbuls and Common Myna, is a reminder of the astonishing
diversity of Bhutan within such short distances. The vegetation changes mainly to Chir
Pine.
A few migrant waterfowl, such as Ruddy Shelduck, may be seen in wetlands found in
these areas. Today will be our first attempt to look out for the extremely rare Whitebellied Heron. Though very rare elsewhere, the heron has been regularly located along
the Po Chu River. Another rare bird we may encounter would be the Palla's Fish Eagle.
Tonight we will camp in the forest of the Jigme Dorji National Park, the largest park in
Bhutan. Overnight in tented camp, Jigme Dorji National Park. (A bucket shower will be
available when camping, plus toilet tents. Water for showers in camp will be warmed, but
not hot.)
Docula area: elevation - 10,000 feet; vegetation - mixed evergreen and broadleaved
forests (with rhododendrons and magnolias). Camp Area: elevation - 4500 feet;
vegetation - warm broadleaved forests.
Day 5: Trashithang to Damji
The pre-breakfast birding will be around our camp, where the vegetation is mainly warm
broadleaved forest. A pair of Tawny Fish Owls are at times sighted in a tree along the
roadside. Hence we MUST start early before any vehicles pass by. It is also around this
area that a pair of Red-headed Trogons show up occasionally. We shall also continue our
quest for the globally threatened White-bellied Heron. Here birds often move in huge
mixed flocks and identifying the assortments of warblers is always challenging. We may
encounter some mammals, such as the national mammal of Bhutan, which is the Takin,
as they graze in the open on mountainsides or in bamboo forest on buds and leaves. Also
Leopard and Wild Boars are found in the forests that we pass through today, but rarely
seen. The various elevations will produce a variety of habitats today. The newly
constructed road towards the village of Damji has not really been explored and we may
find a species that has not been reported in the region earlier. Later in the afternoon drive
to Punakha, where we would visit the majestic Punakha Dzong built at the confluence of
the Pho Chhu and Mo Chuu, meaning male and female rivers, in 1637.
Trashithang to Damji: elevation - 4500 to 9000 feet; vegetation - a variety of forest types.
Today we'll drive toward the Wangdue district, where we will be spending the night in a
hotel.
Day 6: Wangdue to Pele La Pass via Phobjikha
Today we shall drive to Phobjikha with the hope of seeing Black-necked Cranes.
Phobjikha, at 10,000 feet, is a glacial valley and is the biggest wetland in Bhutan. It is the
winter home of about 350 Black-necked Cranes that arrive in late October and start
migrating back to Tibet by early March. Because of the presence of the cranes, Phobjikha
is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the Country. If they are not in
residence, we will spend time looking for three species of parrotbills (Black-throated,
Brown and Great), Brown and Red-headed bullfinch, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker;
Black-eared Shrike-babbler, Fired-tailed Myzornis, and Kalij and Monal pheasants.
Pele La Pass: elevation - 11,200 feet; vegetation - sub-alpine conifers and bamboo.
Overnight in tented camp at Pele La Pass or at a hotel in Phobjikha.
Day 7: Phobjikha to Camp at Wangdigang en route to Zhemgang
If at a hotel, we will want to leave very early for the hour drive to the Pele La. Monal
Pheasants and Satyr Trogopan are a distinct possibility, but the bird that we will be after
this morning is the Great Parrotbill. After breakfast at the pass, it will mainly be a driving
day with occasional birding stops. From the Pele La we start down into central Bhutan.
Nearly an hour before we reach there on the winding road, we'll have our first glimpse of
the Trongsa Dzong across the breathtaking depths of the Mangde Chhu Gorge. Built atop
the crest of a narrow ridge, it is, without doubt, the most spectacularly placed dzong in all
of Bhutan. It is perched so far above the river that the clouds frequently float below it.
From Trongsa we continue southwards until we reach the bottom of the valley and then
again ascend to an elevation of about 6500 feet, where we shall camp at Wangdigang for
the night. Almost all the Bhutan birding tours offered do not camp at Wangdigang, which
is about 14 km before the town of Zhemgang. We always plans a night here before
continuing to the regular camp at Tingtibi, even though there isn't a proper camping area,
mainly for the incomparable Beautiful Nuthatch. Hishey has had 100% success so far in
the quest of this exquisite nuthatch.
Wangdigang: elevation - 6500 feet; vegetation - mainly oak forest and open habitats.
Overnight in camp at Wangdigang en route to Zhemgang.
Day 8 & 9 : The Zhemgang-Tingtibi Road
During these two days, we will be birding along the Zhemgang-Tingtibi Road. Here the
very rare and much sought after Beautiful Nuthatch is resident. Other specialties include
the Cutia, the Sultan Tit, Yellow-cheeked Tit, several species of fulvettas and
laughingthrushes, Rufous-breasted Bush-Robin, Orange-flanked Bush-Robin, Whitebrowed and Black-headed shrike babblers, Black-eared Shrike Babblers, Green Shrike
Babbler, Rusty-fronted Barwing, Grey Peacock Pheasant, Red-headed Trogon, several
species of cuckoos, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Pin-tailed Green Pigeon, White-browed
Piculet, and Scarlet Finch. Rufous-necked Hornbill is a possibility. Besides birds, the
endemic Golden Langur is also common here, so we will spend time with these special
primates. In fact, our campsite is in the middle of this rare primate's range.
Elevation at camp - 2000 feet, but we will be exploring mixed broadleaved evergreen
forests at elevations between 2000 to 8000 feet. Overnight in camp at Tingtibi
Day 10:Tingtibi to Trongsa
After some early morning birding, we will back-track to Trongsa for the night for a welldeserved hot shower and a night in a "proper" bed.
Trongsa: elevation - 7,000 feet; vegetation - broadleaved evergreen forest. Overnight in
a hotel in Trongsa.
Day 11: Trongsa to Ura
Above Trongsa the road climbs through many switchbacks, then passes through a misty
forest of Silver Fir and bamboo on the way to Yotong La (11,234 feet). The drive through
magnificent rhododendron and magnolia forest is simply breathtaking. White-browed
Fulvettas, Grey crested Tits, Coal Tits, and gangs of White-throated Laughing thrush are
fairly common. The elusive Fulvous Parrotbill is also a possibility and the Gold-naped
Finch has been spotted here. Once we cross the Yotong La Pass, the vegetation is mainly
spruce and Silver Fir forest with plenty of bamboo undergrowth. As we descend further,
it then changes to Blue Pine forest, where the birdlife is not especially diverse. But
Bumthang is the only district in Bhutan where you find the Black-billed Magpie. We
shall spend some time exploring the town of Bumthang, which resembles a cowboy town
of the Wild West. Later in the afternoon drive further east to the beautiful alpine valley of
Ura. Ura (elevation 10,000 feet) is a large, compact, and quite wealthy agricultural
village, since the advent of potato farming. It has an attractive temple and cobblestone
"streets". Beautiful Rosefinch, White-browed Rosefinch, Red-billed Chough, Spotted
Nutcracker, Russet Sparrows, Black-billed Magpie and Rufous-breasted Accentor are
some of the rather common birds that can be seen foraging in the open fields.
Ura: elevation - 10,000 feet; vegetation - sub-alpine and open habitats. Overnight in
Camp or farm house in Ura.
Day 12 : Ura to Sengor
We leave early in the morning with the hope of catching some of the most beautiful
pheasants of the Himalayas feeding along the road. Flocks of Blood Pheasants feed in the
open by the roadside at dawn. If lucky, we should also see Monal Pheasant, as well as the
Satyr Tragopan. Flocks of Snow Pigeons have also been frequently sighted flying across
the valley or foraging in the farmlands. Near Gyazamchu in a small wetland along the
crystal clear mountain stream, Wood Snipe were found during our previous trips and we
shall check out this site again. The beauty of the landscape against the backdrop of
brightly colored rhododendrons in full blossom is unmatched. Near the Thrumsing la pass
at 3,700 metres is a rhododendron garden, which has over twenty species of
rhododendrons, six of which are endemic to Bhutan. Here we shall check for the
gorgeous Fire-tailed Sunbird and other forest birds, such as Rufous-gorgeted and
Ultramarine flycatchers, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Red-headed Bullfinch, Collared
Grosbeak, Rusty-flanked and Eurasian treecreepers, and a variety of tit species.
From the pass it is another hour to the beautiful alpine village of Sengor. We shall camp a
little further down from the village, which is the prime Satyr Tragopan habitat. Besides
the Tragopan, other beautiful species reported in this area include the Bar-winged Wren
Babbler and the Spotted Laughingthrush. Sengor: elevation - 9,000 feet; vegetation mainly cool broadleaf and fir forest. Overnight in tented camp, Sengor
Day 13- 14: Yongkhola
The road along this stretch from the pass at 12,000 down to 2,000 feet is considered to
offer the best birding in Asia. During our three days here, explore the wonderfully rich,
subtropical, warm and cool broadleaved forests along the lower section of this road
(2,000 to 8,000 feet). The specialties here are Ward's and Red-headed trogon; several
species of scimitar babblers, parrotbills, Rufous-necked Hornbill, an assortment of
warblers, Fire-tailed Myzornis, Hill Partidge, Satyr Trogopan, Speckled Wood Pigeon,
Sultan and Yellow-cheeked tits, varieties of bulbuls, three species of tesias (Chestnutheaded, Slaty-bellied and Grey-bellied), flycatchers, laughingthrushes and others. The
first two nights we'll camp and for the third, we will drive 90 minutes to Mongar where
we will stay in a hotel.
Camp: elevation - 6,000 feet, vegetation - subtropical, warm and cool broadleaved
forests. Overnight two nights in a camp at Yongkhola, and one night in a hotel in
Mongar.
Day 15: Mongar to Trashigang to Rongthong
A few miles from the hotel in Mongar we'll be at Korilla pass (2,300 meters), where the
vegetation is mixed broadleaved evergreen forests. The expected birds are Siberian
Stonechat, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Ward's Trogon, Gold-naped Finch, and Maroonbacked Accentor. We'll then proceed toward the town of Trashigang, which used to be
the biggest town in Eastern Bhutan until recently overtaken by Mongar's increasing
population. Our drive will take us through the famous Yadi curves, which is a series of
switchbacks passing through the village of Yadi through Chirpine forest, cornfields and
banana groves. Once we have descended to the valley floor, the road follows the opposite
direction of the Dangme Chu River. At Chazam we turn right over the bridge and climb
upwards to the town of Trashigang. We shall spend some time at Trashigang and will
visit the superbly located Dzong, which was built in 1659. Later in the afternoon we shall
drive to Rongthong.
Camp: elevation - 7,000 feet; vegetation - open habitat. Overnight in camp, Rongthong
Day 16: Rongtong to Morong
Prior to breakfast, we shall scan the rice fields near our camp for the elusive Black-tailed
Crake. In addition, we may also see some cuckoos. Even then, we should see some
gorgeous birds, such as Scarlet Finches, Black-headed and White-browed shrike
babblers, Emerald Cuckoos, Crested Serpent Eagles and others. Today's drive will also
take us through some fantastic broadleaved forests and we will be passing our last high
point of our tour at about 9,000 feet from where we will get great views of ridge after
ridge of the Himalayan hills before they flatten out on the plains below. We camp tonight
beside good birding habitat in Morong.
Camp: elevation - 5,700 feet; vegetation - broadleaved forests. Overnight in camp,
Morong.
Day 17: Morong to Samdrup Jongkhar
Our quest for the day in this moist broadleaved forest will be one of the cochoas, which
both look beautiful and sing beautifully. A Green Cochoa might pop out on the edge of
the thickets. Other specialties include the Long-tailed Broadbill, Gray Peacock Pheasant.
As we drive further down into the lowlands, the vegetation is sub-tropical and
corresponding species like the Hill Myna, Wreathed Hornbill, and Long-tailed Sibia
should be expected. Later in the evening we will proceed to the town of Samdrup
Jongkhar for a night in the hotel.
Elevation - 2,000 to 5,000 feet; vegetation - moist broadleaved and sub-tropical forest.
Overnight in Hotel, Samdrup Jongkhar
Day 18: Samdrup Jongkhar
Samdrup Jongkhar is at the border of India, so we will drive back into Bhutan and
explore the sub-tropical forest above the town. We'll look for various cuckoos, Blacknaped Monarch, Crimson Sunbird, Asian Fairy-bluebird, Wreathed Hornbill and Great
Hornbill.
Samdrup Jongkhar: Elevation - 500 feet; vegetation - sub-tropical. Overnight in Hotel
Samdrup Jongkhar
Day 19: Samdrup Jongkhar to Guwahati
After some last minute early morning birding in Bhutan, we will bid reluctant goodbyes
and proceed to the Guwahati Airport for onward departure to Kolkata. Some of the birds
that we may encounter during this two to three hour drive are Greater and Lesser
adjutants, Eurasian Crane, Asian Openbill Stork, and Yellow-footed Green Pigeon.
Stay in transit at the Kolkata Airport to connect with the next flight UK.
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