Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic
9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268
www.exoticvetclinic.com (317) 879-8633
Yearly Check Ups for Birds
Birds benefit greatly from regular veterinary check ups. Since birds
commonly mask signs of illness for as long as possible, a regular yearly
veterinary exam is important to help detect problems early and to establish a
normal “baseline” for your bird.
At the Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic we recommend the following as a part
of your bird’s yearly check up:
1. Complete physical examination by an experienced avian veterinarian.
2. Accurate measurement of your bird’s weight. A drop in weight can
be a very early indicator of illness, long before other signs of illness
appear.
3. Fecal and choanal cytology. This microscopic examination of a swab
from your bird’s mouth and from feces can detect unusual bacteria,
yeast or other fungal organisms, red or white blood cells, parasites
and other abnormalities
4. Hematocrit and total serum solids. A single drop of blood collected
from your bird allows us to estimate protein levels and detect
anemia, another early indicator of illness.
If any abnormalities are detected, additional testing can be done immediately to
pinpoint your bird’s medical problem so that treatment can begin as soon as
possible. The following actual examples from cases seen over the last few years
may help illustrate the benefits of yearly exams for birds:
1. A three year old female cockatiel is presented for her yearly check up.
Upon weighing her is discovered she has lost nearly 15 grams from
her previous weight, and has lost breast muscle mass. She is also
mildly anemic. Her drastic weight was not apparent to her owners
since feathers conceal thinness. Her behavior at home is completely
normal. Additional testing reveal a bacterial infection and antibiotics
are prescribed at once.
2. Three Amazon parrots present for their yearly check ups. All three
are found to have significant yeast infections although they appear
completely normal. The birds are started on yeast medication at
once.
3. An Amazon parrot presented for yearly check up has gained nearly 80
grams since last year and is quite obese. It is revealed that the
spouse of the bird’s owner feels sorry for the bird and has been giving
him large amounts of sunflower seeds. The owners are encouraged to
get the bird’s diet back on track, and obesity related disease is
hopefully prevented.
Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic
9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268
Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP - Avian
(317) 879-8633
IS MY BIRD SICK?
Birds, like all our pets, are susceptible to a variety of bacterial, viral and fungal infections. But,
unlike mammals that usually act sick when they are feeling bad, birds try very hard to hide their
illness. In the wild, birds are part of a flock and an ill or injured bird would attract the attention
of predators, thereby endangering the whole flock. They often maintain this “I’m okay” attitude
until they are critically ill. As a result, many bird owners need to be aware of small, subtle
changes that may signal illness.
So how will you know if your bird is ill? Start by observing and making a mental note of your
healthy bird’s normal behavior and habits. Once you know normal, it will be easier to spot
abnormal. Let’s look at some of the things on your “check list”:
Behavior: This will probably give you your first hint that something is not right. A normal bird
is active, vocal and interested in its surroundings. A sick bird may also act this way when you are
present, but not when it is alone. So, look around the corner to observe your bird before it sees
you. A sick bird would be fluffed up, sitting in one spot and appearing sleepy. It may even be
sitting on the cage bottom. A sick bird is usually quieter than normal, not talking or screaming.
A sick bird may want more petting than usual or a usual cuddly bird may not want to be touched.
It is the change in behavior and patterns that tell you something is wrong.
Droppings: A normal bird dropping has three components. The dark, solid portion is feces. The
white part is urates. The clear liquid portion is urine. The color of the solid portion may change,
depending on what it has eaten. However, the volume and firmness should remain the same. A
lack of solid consistency to the feces is true diarrhea, and is cause for concern. The white portion
should always be white. Changes in urate color may indicate disease or poisoning. The amount
of clear urine may increase with high fluid intake or as a result of disease. One or two abnormal
droppings are usually nothing to worry about, but consistently abnormal droppings over an entire
day or two would warrant a call to the vet. Blood in the droppings is always abnormal.
Appetite: Many birds will maintain their appetite until the day they die. However some ill birds
will eat only one food. Some will gorge on grit if it available (it shouldn’t be). Others will stop
eating altogether. Occasionally a bird will drink a lot but not eat.
Body condition: Pick up bird and run your finger down the center of the breast. You should be
able to feel the keel bone running from chest to abdomen. A healthy bird should have muscle on
either side of the bone. A bird that has lost weight will have a very “pointy” sharp chest. Do this
on your healthy bird so you will know how normal feels.
The bottom line is, if you suspect that something is wrong, call your vet and ask about what is
concerning you. Your bird is depending on you.
Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic
9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268
Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP - Avian
(317) 879-8633
Household Hazards for Birds
Some of the most potent dangers to birds lurk in unexpected places in items you use
everyday. You are responsible for your bird’s safety and knowing these household hazards will
allow your bird to live a long, healthy life.
Kitchen dangers:
The most common and dangerous hazards! A hot stove or a
sink full of water pose threats to your bird as do chemicals and kitchen appliances. Protect the
contents of the cabinets and ensure that drawers are not ajar. Be aware that open pots with water
may look like a nice place to take a bath or drink; your bird will not anticipate that they are
scalding hot.
Teflon, Fumes and Smoke:
Anything that you can smell is dangerous to your bird.
Smoke, aerosols, paint fumes, some markers, hobby glues, pesticides, insecticides,
herbicides, cleaning products, disinfectants, and bleach can easily kill your bird through
inhalation. Even fumes you cannot smell can harm your bird. Carbon monoxide is odorless and
colorless and is dangerous to humans and birds alike. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is a
chemical used to make nonstick pots and pans, irons, and curling irons. This is also known as
Teflon and once heated to over 530oF the chemical breaks down and creates acid fumes that can
kill your bird within minutes even if your bird is in another room.
Medicines and bathroom hazards:
Birds often see small objects as food and they
are often very curious animals. This makes them prone to eating pills or medications. Prevent
accidents by keeping all medications locked up. Toilet bowls are another bathroom hazard. Be
sure to leave lids closed because birds can accidentally drown if they inadvertently fall in. Other
hazards in the bathroom include hair spray, deodorants, drain cleaner, rubbing alcohol, nail polish
remover, perfumes, soaps and sun tan lotions.
Unhealthy treats:
Chocolate, coffee, tea, and soda should be kept away from your
bird. Alcohol can kill you bird even if it takes a small amount. Avocados can cause ---olve
problems. Also, do not leave tobacco or tobacco products where your birds can get to them.
Heavy metals: Lead, cadmium, mercury, copper, and zinc poisoning are very
common in birds. Curiosity coupled with the need to chew to keep their beaks strong can make
ingesting a toxic substance very easy. These metals can be found in drapery weights, mini-blinds,
batteries, toys weighted with lead, screens, wire mesh, costume jewelry, aluminum solder,
thermometers, some dishes and mugs, some disinfectants, and some antifungals. Be sure to read
labels carefully!
Open windows and doors:
Even if your doors and windows have screens,
remember that birds like to perch on top of open doors and windows, and can be injured when
those doors and windows are closed. Birds can be caught in closing doors or can fly into screens
or windows. Clipping your bird’s wings will decrease the chance of injury by flying into closed
windows or doors.
Furnishings: This includes finished wood, ceiling fans, drawer pulls, hinges, and
ornaments. The paint or finish can harm your bird and the pulls or hinges can contain heavy
metals as discussed above. Again clipping your bird’s wings can prevent ceiling fan injuries by
not allowing them to fly into the spinning blades.
Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic
9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268
Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP - Avian
(317) 879-8633
PET BIRD NUTRITION
Poor nutrition in pet birds is a major contributor to both disease and a shortened
lifespan. It is easy for a new bird owner to be confused by the huge array of bird food
and treats available. Unfortunately, many of the ‘complete bird foods’ on the market
consist mostly of or all seed plus vitamins. This alone is not a complete diet, and will
lead to malnutrition in most pet bird species.
The absolute nutritional requirements of many species of birds are not known, but
it is generally accepted that birds require the same types of nutrients that other animals
do. Studies of pet birds species in the wild show these birds eat a wide variety of foods
including leaves, buds, berries, and insects. Some larger species are even known to eat
smaller animals and birds! Seeds and grains are eaten by parrots in the wild, but these
natural seeds are completely different from those grown in North America. Parrots in
the wild perform high levels of aerobic exercise which requires a diet high in fat. Captive
parrots simply cannot perform at this level of exercise, therefore do not need high
quantities of fat.
The Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic recommends a diet of 80% formulated
pellets, with about 20% well chosen healthy table foods. We do not recommend seeds
and nuts as a regular part of a parrot’s diet.
Pelleted Bird Diets: A number of manufacturers are offering pelleted diets believed to
contain all of the nutrients pet birds need. Several companies offer a complete line of
pellets for birds from finches to large parrots. These pellets offer an advantage to bird
owners who are often too busy to prepare homemade diets for their birds. Pellets are less
messy and there are fewer problems with spoilage.
Converting a seed junkie bird to a pelleted diet can be a challenge. The most
successful method involves putting the pellets in the food dish that normally holds the
seed mix. In a smaller, separate dish, offer the customary diet on an every-other-day
basis (for larger birds) or every evening (for smaller birds). At first the ‘pellets only’
days, the bird will most likely refuse to try the unaccustomed food. Determination is
needed on the owner’s part at this point, as the bird is likely to beg for its usual fare. It
may take several weeks to months to get a stubborn bird to try pelleted diets. Once you
see that the bird has begun to sample the pellets, begin a slow phasing out of the seeds
until they are no longer a regular part of the bird’s diet. Seeds may still be given
occasionally as treats or as a reward for good behavior. Favorite table foods also make
good treats. Don’t give in to the temptation to return to seeds as a regular part of the diet,
as your pet’s future health and longevity are at stake.
The diet we recommend is a combination of pellets (80%) and nutritious table
foods (20%). Pellets are available at all times, or better yet hidden in toys for the bird to
forage, and well-balanced table foods are offered 1-2 times per day, ideally as part of
social eating with human members of the flock..
It should be noted that most breeders of companion birds are now weaning their babies
onto pellets and table foods, and the problem of converting birds that have been eating a
predominately seed diet will hopefully become a thing of the past.
Select supplemental table foods from the list:
A. Grains, Breads and Cereals: Whole grain breads, cooked brown rice, pasta,
nutritious cereals (no or low sugar), other whole grains. Seeds are also
included in this category, but should be limited as most seeds are particularly
high in fat.
B. Vegetables and Greens: Good choices include dark leafy green vegetables
such as broccoli, kale, endive, parsley, and dark yellow or orange vegetables
such as carrots, sweet potatoes, and squash. Birds also like corn, green beans,
and legumes (cooked).
C. Dairy, Meat and Fruit: Small amounts of yogurt, and hard cheeses. Lean
meats such as cooked chicken and fish. Cooked eggs are also a favorite.
Larger parrots enjoy chewing chicken bones. Fruit favorites are grapes,
apples and melon.
Diets for Special Nutritional Requirements: African Grey Parrots need additional
calcium in their diets, and current research suggest exposure to full spectrum UV lighting
is important as well. Some pelleted foods are made specifically for Greys with added
calcium. Other sources are cheese, broccoli and chicken bones. Lories and Lorikeets
need special diets, most commonly provided in a nectar type formula. Some pelleted
formulas are on the market, but at this time it is not clear exactly how nutritionally
complete these diets are. Mynah Birds and Toucans require a special low-iron diet.
The Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic recommends the following formulated diets for pet
parrots:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Harrison’s Bird Foods
Zupreem
Pretty Bird
Labeber’s Bird Food
www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com
www.zupreem.com
www.prettybird.com
www.lafeber.com
Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic
9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268
Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP - Avian
(317) 879-8633
From Twinkies to Table Foods
Methods for Changing Your Bird’s Diet
You’ve heard us say that seeds are the “twinkies and french fries” of the bird diet. You
know that your bird should be getting a variety of table foods and pellets. Unfortunately,
birds are creatures of habit, and the unusual appearance of new foods is enough to make
them not want to try it. So how do you get your bird to change his or her diet?
The first thing that you should know is to never attempt to change the diet of a sick or
stressed bird. Sick or stressed birds could very easily quit eating all together; therefore,
this is not a good time to introduce new foods. Wait for a few weeks after bringing a new
bird into your home or until a sick bird is well before introducing new foods.
Once you are ready to start the process of changing your bird’s diet, here are a few
methods that you may try to help coax your bird into trying new foods. When attempting
any of these methods, remember to make sure that your bird is eating something. A
change in diet will not be helpful if your bird becomes ill from not eating. Weigh your
bird frequently and palpate your bird’s keel often (our staff can show you how) to make
sure that your bird is not losing weight.
NEVER attempt to convert a bird “cold turkey”. Unless the bird accepts the new food
immediately, this technique carries a high risk of serious illness or death.
Eat with your bird. This is the easiest and most successful method. Birds are flock
eaters. Set your bird at or near your table during your meals. Let your bird see you eat
the foods that you are offering to him or her. Another successful tactic is to let the bird
eat straight off your plate.
Offer food in a variety of forms. Birds are picky eaters, as are many of us. Some birds
may like a food fixed one way, but not another. Give your bird choices. For example,
offer vegetables cooked and raw, as shavings and chopped.
Mix the new food with the seeds or another liked item. This may work with some
birds. Most birds will simply pick out and eat only seeds; this will not accomplish your
goal. Other birds will not eat the new foods or the seeds that they have been mixed with.
Watch your bird closely to make sure that it is eating something. If your bird happens to
like a soft food such as baby food, oatmeal, or cream of wheat, mix the unfamiliar food
with the soft food and gradually decrease the amount of the soft food.
Feed your bird somewhere new. Offer the new items to your bird from somewhere
other than his or her seed dish. Try to place the new food next to a favorite toy or on the
back of the couch where the bird likes to perch.
Restrict the amount of seeds that you are feeding. Offer your bird only about half of
the amount of seeds that he or she normally eats in a day in addition to the new foods.
Watch carefully to be sure the bird is eating and producing plenty of stools.
Sprout the seeds. Sprouting the seeds may help in the transition from seeds to
vegetables. To sprout seeds soak them in water overnight. Place the seeds in a jar
covered with netting. Rinse the seeds with water 2-3 times daily. Keep the jar in a warm
environment. This process will take 2-5 days. Rinse the spouts several times in cold
water and store in the refrigerator.
Remove all seeds. Seeds can be removed from your bird’s cage for periods of time
varying on your bird’s size and health. Smaller birds should have their seed removed
only every other day; larger birds may require the removal of seeds for up to 2 days at a
time. This method of conversion should be done only with adult healthy birds and under
the direct supervision of a veterinarian.
Hospitalization: Some owners have their birds hospitalized when they cannot get their
pet to convert to a better diet. This method allows our staff to carefully observe the bird,
weigh the bird daily, and to tube or assist feed if necessary.
The transition of your bird’s diet from a complete seed diet to a healthy diet of a variety
of table foods and pellets can be quite a challenging experience. It is essential, however,
to ensure the well-being of your pet. Patience is the key. Do not expect this change to
occur overnight. If you have any questions or need any advice, feel free to contact our
staff. We are here to help.
Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic
9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268
Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP - Avian
(317) 879-8633
Forming a Proper Bond with Pet Parrots
Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic of Indianapolis
In the wild, parrots form three kinds of bonds: social bonds with flock members, a
monogamous pair bond with a potential mate, and a mated pair that produce young.
Birds raised with humans can form the same bonds.
Characteristics of social bonds:
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Birds feed and shelter together in flocks.
Birds maintain minimal distance between each other.
Bird occasionally preen each other for brief amounts of time.
Characteristics of monogamous pairs:
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Begin to spend more time together.
Increased amounts of preening.
Begin to seek out and defend a nest site.
Begin courtship regurgitation.
Initiate mating behavior.
Characteristics of a mating pair:
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Spend time exclusively with each other.
Aggressively defend nest site.
Aggressively drive off other flock members.
Ideally owners maintain only social bonds with pet parrots.
Monogamous pair bonds and mated pair bonds often lead to undesirable behaviors.
These include:
Attempting to drive off or bite other human members of the household.
Aggressively defending perceived “nesting sites” such as cages, boxes, etc.
Increased regurgitation and mating behaviors.
Screaming and agitation when separated from human “mate”
Sexual frustration and feather plucking.
Ways to maintain a social pair bond and discourage other bonds:
Encourage all family member s to interact with the bird regularly and equally.
Schedule times for the bird to meet and interact with willing strangers,
Limit petting to brief, non-intense episodes, such as occasionally scratching the head.
Maintain proper “social distance” for most interactions with the bird.
Discourage all regurgitation or masturbating behavior.
Remove any perceived nest site or nesting materials.
Replace reproductive behaviors with trick training (see “Target Training” for Birds.)
Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic
9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268
Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP - Avian
(317) 879-8633
How Should I Play With My Bird?
In the wild, pet parrots are known to be extremely social, gregarious and perform
behaviors that to human observers appear to be play. As this is an important part of the
natural behavior of birds in the wild, owners should replicate this as well as possible to
help improve the captive bird’s mental welfare.
Unfortunately for some birds, a human’s idea of or attempts at play can be misunderstood
as courtship or reproductive behaviors, which in some birds can lead to a number of
undesirable and unhealthy consequences, including screaming, biting, preferring the
company of only one human, improper molt and in some cases feather plucking.
Misunderstanding occurs when humans try to interact with pet parrots as they would a pet
dog or cat, as the behaviors of these species among others of their kind are very different.
Desirable play activities attempt to reproduce and enforce behaviors seen in non-mating
flocks of social birds. Undesirable play activities tend to reinforce behaviors seen in
mated pairs, which for most owners are not desirable, as mated birds tend to be secretive,
drive off other flock members, and, mate. When a parrot perceives a human being as a
mate, the bird may bite other family members, defend the cage or other favorite spots
from intruders, scream when the preferred person leaves the room, and demonstrate
masturbating and other mating behaviors.
The following desirable play activities tend to replicate social parrot behavior. The
undesirable play activities in some cases replicate pair bond or mating behavior
Desirable Play Activities
Step up and step down onto various
perches on command for all family
members and confident strangers
Staying on perch or play gym when placed
there
Social vocalization-talking, singing
Social eating-sharing food items with other
human flock members
Trick training, clicker training with food
rewards
Limited social grooming-occasional scratch
on head or under wings
Exploring toys and other safe novel objects
Foraging behaviors-toys or objects that
replicate searching for food items
Meeting and socializing with unfamiliar
but friendly humans
Undesirable Play Activities
Perching on human shoulders or head
Leaving perch or play gym to explore the
house on own
Constant screaming
Taking foods directly from human mouth
(simulates courtship feeding)
Intense cuddling with owner, for example
under clothing
Long periods of grooming by owners,
especially near tail
Masturbating with humans or toys
Nesting in boxes, or other materials
Interacting exclusively or even mostly with
only one family member
Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic
9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268
Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP - Avian
(317) 879-8633
Target Training for Birds
Target training is a fun and easy technique used to encourage desired behaviors such as
entering a carrier or even trick training. In brief, the goal is to get the bird to willingly go
to a target in anticipation of a reward.
Before you can begin you need 3 things:
1. A target, which should be a readily available easily identified object that the bird
normally would not see outside of training. Suggestions are: a chopstick, an
unusually colored and/or shaped toy, a bell, etc.
2. A clicker, available at most larger pet stores
3. A reward that the bird really enjoys, never gets any other time, and can be
consumed very quickly. Suggestions are 1/2 shelled sunflower seed, tiny bit of
popcorn or dried fruit.
To begin, place the bird on a tabletop and place the target some distance away. Wait for
the bird to approach the target and touch it with his beak. Immediately click, praise and
offer the reward. Repeat until the bird learns touching the target means a reward.
In summary:
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Bird touches the target
Bird hears a click
Bird gets a verbal and treat reward at the same time he hears the click
Bird associates target and click with reward
Bird seeks out target to get a reward
Owner uses target to shape behaviors.
Now you can place the target in various places to shape a behavior, for example, going
into the carrier.
More ideas can be found by searching under “clicker training” here:
www.birdsjustwannahavefun.com/books
www.birdsupplies.com
Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic
9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268
Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP - Avian
(317) 879-8633
Environmental Enrichment for Birds
Research on bird behavior in the wild shows that birds spend large amount of time
performing specific behaviors such as foraging for food, socializing and grooming.
Research on birds in captivity suggest that replicating these behaviors can help improve a
pet bird’s mental well being, and possibly reduce boredom, and related abnormal
behaviors such as feather plucking.
Consider the lifestyle of a bird kept indoors in a cage as a single pet, with a single or a
few human companions, and an unchanging diet easily available every moment of the
day. Contrast this with the lifestyle of a bird in the wild, surrounded in most cases by a
large social flock, spending large amounts of time foraging for food
This does not means birds should not be kept as pets. Many owners have found ways to
keep these wonderful companions in captivity yet still provide them with the mental and
physical stimulation that in some ways replicates life in the wild. Remember that owners
are also able to protect their birds from the hazards of life in the wild including adverse
weather and predators.
Foraging: In the wild adult birds must spend large amounts of time hunting and foraging
for food. Placing food in a bowl for birds eliminates this natural behavior.
Allow the bird to forage for at least one meal every day. Ideas include:
Bury small pieces of food in a bowl filled with large pebbles or wooden beads to
encourage the bird to dig and search for food.
Crumple food into paper so the bird has to unfold it to find the food.
Cover the bowl with paper secured with string so the bird must rip open the paper to get
to the food.
Purchase toys that specifically encourage foraging. Sources include:
Socializing: Plan time specifically to replicate “flocking” with multiple family members
to discourage socialization with just a few, or worse, a single member of the household.
Interacting constantly with a single family member (human or bird) can encourage the
bird to form a pair or sex bond. This often results in behaviors owners find objectionable.
(See “Proper Bonding”) In households with only a single member, encourage other
willing friends to help socialize the bird. Other ideas include:
Play “Warm Potato:” While sitting in a circle, pass the bird from person to person. Each
participant should ask the bird to step up, and then reward the bird verbally or with a
treat. (See Sally Blanchard at)
Eat in a social group: Birds in the wild frequently eat together in large groups. Bring the
bird near the table at mealtimes on a play stand, and “serve” the bird along with other
family members.
Take the bird on social outings that include interacting with other willing people.
Remember that efforts to socialize a bird must continue throughout the bird’s lifetime.
Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic
9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268
Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP - Avian
(317) 879-8633
Basic Good Behavior for Birds
Parrots are wonderful companion pets. However, rescue facilities are full of pet parrots
that have been abandoned by their owners, many times for unpleasant behaviors that are
for the most part preventable.
All pet parrots should be willing to do the following:
1. Step up and step down onto and from the owner’s hand, all members of the
household and confident strangers.
2. Stay on a perch or play gym when put there
3. Willingly enter the cage or carrier
Step up is the first basic command to teach your bird. Confidently ask your bird to
step up while pressing gently on the parrot’s breast with your hand. Praise the bird. Ask
your bird to then step down onto perches, the cage or other surfaces by gently rolling him
off your hand. Praise, reward and repeat regularly.
All members of the family who are physically and mentally able to handle the bird
should regularly reinforce the step up and step down command. The bird should then
meet strangers in or outside the home and perform the same for them.
The worst thing you can do is to allow the bird to only step up and step down for a
few, or worse yet only one person. This can lead to a monogamous pair or sex pair
bonding that almost always leads to behaviors most owners find unacceptable. (See Pair
Bonding for Birds.)
Birds must learn to stay on a perch or play gym and not jump up to follow the owners
or explore the house. Place the bird on the perch. If he jumps off, give a firm “No” and
replace him. When he stays on the perch for a period of time, reward him with a favorite
treat. Repeat as necessary. Be sure a bird left on a perch is rewarded with food, toys, or
attention for staying put.
If the bird continues to jump off, place him gently into a large cardboard box for a 2-3
minute “time out.” Take him out, place him back on the perch and reward him when he
stays.
Birds should be willing to go back into the cage or carrier when asked. Practice
and continually reward good behavior. If your bird resists, see “Target Training for
Birds.”
Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic
9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268
Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP - Avian
(317) 879-8633
Stress and the Veterinary VisitTips on how to make the Veterinary exam a more pleasant and less stressful experience for you and your bird
In years past it was not uncommon for veterinarians unfamiliar with birds to attempt to
handle them using techniques that caused fear and anxiety for the birds. These included
the use of gloves, and simply grabbing birds quickly and forcefully to reduce the risk of
being bitten. This generally resulted in a stressful fear response that was almost
guaranteed to reoccur each time the bird visited the veterinary hospital.
We now know that it is possible to handle nearly all pet birds in such a way to reduce
stress and result in an experience that ranges from pleasant to only mildly annoying.
This does not happen without work on the part of the owner and the veterinary staff.
Training the bird to accept handling must be practiced regularly for the entire lifetime of
the pet. Gentle handling on the part of the veterinary staff is often doomed to failure
without regular effort on the part of the owner.
Using positive reinforcement and practice you should be able to train your bird to:
Willingly enter the carrier to come to the veterinarian
Willingly step onto the scale to be weighed
Willingly leave you to step onto the hand of veterinary staff
Accept towel restraint without fear
Entering the carrier
The transport carrier or box should not be used only when the bird has to go to the
veterinarian, or it will become associated with veterinary visits. Young birds should
regularly be placed into the carrier and rewarded, and occasionally be taken places in it
the bird finds enjoyable or rewarding. Let the bird occasionally find food treats or toys
inside the carrier.
Older birds that are fearful of or resist going into the carrier must be conditioned to
accept the carrier. Some tips include:
Reward the bird for standing on top of or near the carrier at first.
Train the bird to respond to a target that is placed closer and closer to the carrier, and
eventually in the carrier. (See “Target Training”)
Standing on the scale
Practice at home with a portable perch that is similar in size and shape to our perch. Or,
alternatively, bring your portable perch to the veterinary exam to set onto our scale.
If birds are fearful of portable perches, work at home to overcome this before the
veterinary exam. It is important that all birds be able to sit quietly on a perch when
placed there. (See: Basic Good Behavior for the New Bird)
Willingly accepting handling by the veterinary staff
Basic Good Behavior for the New Bird explains the importance of training a bird to step
up to unfamiliar people. Practice by regularly taking your bird to an unfamiliar area (of
your house or even someone else’s house) and asking people who are confident with
birds to ask your bird to step up.
Sally Blanchard recommends what she calls the “Warm Potato” game where all family
members plus less familiar willing participants sit in a circle and calmly pass the bird
from person to person. This is a critically important skill that must be reinforced for the
lifetime of the bird. Birds that are confident around new people will not usually be afraid
to interact with the veterinary staff. As birds are flock animals, it is natural for them to
willingly interact with large numbers of flock members. Birds that are comfortable only
with a few, or worse yet, one person will experience stress anytime unfamiliar people are
involved, and can result in far worse behavioral problems later in life.
Accept Towel Restraint
There is probably not much that can be done to train a bird to actually enjoy towel
restraint and examination, but most birds can learn the restraint is only mildly annoying
and willingly accept it. Success depends on constant positive reinforcement at home
before and in between veterinary visits.
This is easiest to accomplish in young birds. We recommend “Towel Peek-a-boo.”
Gently cover the bird with a towel, remove it and praise and reward the bird. Repeat
regularly for the life of the bird.
Older birds already fearful of towels take much more effort. Begin by target training, and
move the target closer and closer to a towel spread flat out on a table surface (see “Target
Training.”) Practice until the bird will step onto the towel to reach the target. Wiggle
one corner of the towel and reward the bird for sitting calmly. Gradually move more and
more towel towards the bird until you can cover the bird completely. More fearful birds
may require months of training to accomplish this.
Additional Tips: Bring a familiar towel and favorite treats to the Veterinary exam for
the staff to use.
More References:
Basic Good Behavior for New Birds
Target Training for Birds
The “Warm Potato” game, Sally Blanchard: www.companionparrot.com
Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic
9330 Waldemar Road Indianapolis, IN 46268
Dr. Angela Lennox D.V.M. Dipl. ABVP - Avian
(317) 879-8633
Emergency First Aid Primer for Birds
Remember that all sick or injured birds will benefit from warmth (90-95 degrees); dark and quiet until you
can get medical help. Birds that have no been eating can be given karo syrup or pancake syrup in water by
eyedropper or syringe, in very small frequent amounts. Below are additional first aid tips for specific
injuries or illnesses.
1.
TRAUMA often involves bleeding, fractures or concussion. The top priority is to stop bleeding.
The most effective method to stop bleeding is direct pressure. Once the bleeding has stopped or
slowed dramatically, styptic powder, super glue or flour may be used to help form a clot.
2. BURNS must always be inspected by a veterinarian, even if the skin looks good. Many require
shock therapy, pain control and antibiotics. In many cases, the full extent of burn damage is not
known for several days.
3. GASTROINTESTINAL DISEASE includes anorexia, diarrhea, passing whole seed, decreased
emptying of the crop and regurgitation. Note that birds in new or stressful situations may not eat
for a time. Introducing new foods may cause a change in feces, and food with high water content
may cause increased wet dropping from urine production. Conditions requiring veterinary care
include diarrhea, passing whole seed in stool, decreased fecal output, or yellow to green urates
(white portion of droppings).
4. TISSUE PROLAPSE from vent may be the uterus, rectum, and egg or other tissue. Call a
veterinarian immediately. If care is delayed, you may lightly rinse the tissue with warm, sterile
saline solution or contact lens solution, and moisten with sterile lubricant like KY jelly.
5. CENTRAL NERVOUS SYSTEM DISEASE includes seizures, paralysis and/or incoordination.
Weakness and/or seizure may be due to hypoglycemia. If the bird is alert you may give a small
amount of karo or pancake syrup in water and call the veterinarian.
6. HYPERTHERMIA or overheating from exposure to extreme heat can quickly be life threatening.
Signs of hyperthermia include panting and holding wings away from the body. Be aware panting
can also be caused by respiratory disease, and not overheating. Birds that are hyperthermic can be
cooled by gentle application of cool water.
7. RESPIRATORY DISEASE symptoms include difficulty breathing, sneezing, nasal discharge or
a voice change. If the bird has severe difficulty breathing, place the bird in a dark box or carrier,
minimize handling and stress and call the veterinarian immediately.
8. SWELLINGS may be abdominal fluid, an egg, a hernia, air from an over inflated air sac or a
tumor. If the bird exhibits difficulty breathing, or otherwise seems depressed call the veterinarian
immediately.
9. ANIMAL BITES always require antibiotics, even if you are not sure if the skin was broken.
Wash wounds and flush with water if veterinary care is delayed.
10. BEAK INJURIES may or may not be emergencies depending on the extent of injury of location.
Large fractures or injuries near when the beak is connected to the face should be seen as soon as
possible. Bleeding should be controlled with direct pressure.
A note on the ADR bird (Ain’t Doing Right):
Typical calls to our clinic involve birds that are “maybe a little lethargic, sometimes diarrhea, not eating as
well as normal, just a little puffed up and sleeping more”. Practically every disease a bird can have, mild or
severe can present with these exact symptoms. As birds are masters at hiding signs of illness, we
recommend an exam for any “ADR” bird, along with testing and laboratory work to help us distinguish
between the many possible diagnoses.
Calling the veterinarian after hours:
Call the regular clinic number: 317-879-8633. The recording will give instructions on how to reach the
doctor on call. Remember cell phones and pagers don’t always work the first time. Be sure to try again in
15-20 minutes if you get no response. Do not use a doctor’s pager or cell phone first before checking the
recording, as the doctor who is not on duty may not be monitoring the phone or pager.