Environmentally Friendly Gardening Is Dharmic Gardening “Love all God’s Creation, the whole and every grain of sand in it. Love every leaf, every ray of God’s Light. Love the animals, love the plants. Love everything. If you love everything, you will perceive the divine mystery in things. Once you perceive it, you will begin to comprehend it better everyday, and you will come at least to love the whole world with an all embracing love.” – Sathya Sai Baba, Discourse 1-4-1995 (in In His Image by Madeleine Guillemin, p. 159) The Problem The chemical revolution has convinced many people that proper gardens have to look perfect. To those who followed this revolution, this meant that their gardens had to be immaculate, without a weed or bug in sight. The concept of a "perfect garden" encourages people to see the natural world as something to be overcome. Domination of nature through poisons like pesticides and herbicides is cruelly easy. Heaven forbid that a bug or weed should mar the perfection of our acres of lawn or billowing borders!AL Conventional lawn and garden care contributes to pollution of our air and water and uses up non-renewable resources such as fuel and water. Many typical landscapes receive high inputs of chemicals, fertilizers, water and time, and require a lot of energy (human as well as gas-powered) to maintain. The effects of lawn and landscaping on the environment can be reduced if properties are properly managed by using organic alternatives applied correctly, decreasing the area requiring gas-powered tools, using native species that can be sustained with little watering and care, and using a different approach to maintenance practices.2 Americans manage approximately 30 million acres of lawn. We spend $750 million per year on grass seed. In managing our yards and gardens, we tend to over-apply products, using 100 million tons of fertilizer and more than 80 million pounds of pesticides annually. The average homeowner spends 40 hours per year behind a power mower, using a quart of gas per hour. Grass clippings consume 25 to 40% of landfill space during a growing season. Per hour of operation, small gas-powered engines used for yard care emit more hydrocarbons than a typical auto (mowers 10 times as much, string trimmers 21 times, blowers 34 times). A yard with 10,000 square feet of turf requires 10,000 gallons of water per summer to stay green; 30% of water consumed on the East Coast goes to watering lawns.2 Invasive non-native plants are destroying the native plants and ecosystems around them. The Solution “In controlling the forces of Nature, the balance should not be upset. In dealing with Nature, there are three requirements. The first is knowledge of the laws of Nature. The second is the skill to utilize the powers of Nature for human needs. The third is to maintain the balance among natural forces. It is the disturbance of the balance that has led to such consequences as soil erosion, pollution of the atmosphere, etc.” Sathya Sai Baba (in In His Image by Madeleine Guillemin, p. 58-9) Environmentally friendly gardening, also called “low impact gardening” and “conservation landscaping:” Significantly reduces pollution of lakes, wetlands, groundwater, and entire watersheds such as the Chesapeake Bay Eliminates poisonous pesticides from fruits and vegetables grown in your garden Keeps your children, pets, and our animal friends free from the harm done by dangerous and poisonous pesticides Saves money and reduces the amount of time you have to spend taking care of your lawn and garden. Results in better tasting and more nutritious fruits and vegetables from your garden Looks really good Improves the local environment and provides habitat for local and migratory birds and other animals Native plants have a greater survivability than non-native plants. Native Plants “In controlling the forces of Nature, the balance should not be upset. In dealing with Nature, there are three requirements. The first is knowledge of the laws of Nature. The second is the skill to utilize the powers of Nature for human needs. The third is to maintain the balance among natural forces. It is the disturbance of the balance that has led to such consequences as soil erosion, pollution of the atmosphere, etc.” Sathya Sai Baba (in In His Image by Madeleine Guillemin, p. 58-9) Note: The excellent publication Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat and Conservation Landscaping, Chesapeake Bay Watershed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service2 includes beautiful pictures as well as user-friendly information on native species appropriate for planting in the region from New York State to Virginia. A free PDF download is available at: http://www.nps.gov/plants/pubs/chesapeake/pdf/chesapeakenatives.pdf What are native plants? Native plants are those that grew in a defined region prior to European settlement. They have evolved over thousands of years to be adapted to each area and to the other living creatures around them. Non-native plants are those that were from foreign sources or other areas of the United States and brought to the area by human activity; accidentally or purposefully. Invasive non-native plants are those that have escaped into the wild and are destroying the native plants and ecosystems around them. Japanese honeysuckle and garlic mustard are examples of invasive non-native plants in our region. Why use native plants? Native plants naturally occur in the region in which they have evolved. Native plants have many advantages over non-native plants. Native plants are: Beautiful, functional and environmentally smart additions to any type of garden. Naturally adapted to local soils and climate conditions, with built-in resilience to temperature and rainfall fluctuations. Usually require less watering and fertilizing than non-natives. Native plants have a greater survivability than non-native ornamentals. 4 Often more resistant to insects and disease and so are less likely to need pesticides. Wildlife evolved with the native plants. They use native plant communities for food, habitat, and rearing young. They attract birds and butterflies. 4 Reduces the time and expense of mowing, watering, fertilizing and treating lawn and garden areas which: Improves water quality Provide a greater visual interest than lawn and helps preserve the balance and beauty of natural ecosystems. Can be used to address areas with problems such as erosion, poor soils, steep slopes, or poor drainage.2 The savings realized by using little or no chemicals, and less water and gas, can more than make up for initial costs of installing the landscaping. BH How do I use native plants? One of the simplest ways to begin is by replacing lawn areas with locally native trees, shrubs and perennial plants. Begin by choosing the right native plants for your area, buying healthy ones and planting them properly (Use Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat and Conservation Landscaping, Chesapeake Bay Watershed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service2). New plants need watering and monitoring during the first season until they become established. Garden maintenance is reduced to only minimal seasonal cleanup and occasional weeding. Companion Planting Plants That Repel Weeds and Pests But Attract Beneficial Organisms A tree gives shade to others and takes nothing for itself. It gives fruits to others but does not itself partake of them. A plant sprouts beautiful flowers and gives joy to others but does not enjoy the beauty by itself. The sun is constantly at work, giving life, light and energy to the world. Does it ask for anything in return? No it performs Kishkama Karma, that is, action without the desire for reward. These are some of the examples of the selflessness of man. If only man watches and studies Nature carefully, he can imbibe a lot of philosophy from it which will help to make him a better person. Sathya Sai's Amrita Varshini p 24 What is companion planting? Companion planting is the gardening practice of planting one plant in proximity to another, due to the benefits it bestows on this "companion plant." Organic gardeners, for instance, often juxtapose plants because the one will have insectrepelling qualities that benefit the other, obviating the need to use chemical pesticides. One plant can even serve as a "mulch" for another. Sometimes, the benefits are shared in companion planting, making for a symbiotic relationship. DB The Native Americans practiced companion planting. They planted corn, beans, and squash together. The corn provided support for the bean plants to grow up. The beans (nitrogen fixing legumes) provided soil nitrogen to the corn and the squash. The squash provided protection to the corn and beans from raccoons, deer, and other animals that don’t like to walk through the thick, tangled, thorny squash vines. Why would I want to use companion planting? Makes your garden naturally pest resistant Reduces reliance on pesticides Saves time, money, and aggravation Some plants can create natural fertilizer for themselves and the plants around them Some plants can serve as living mulches What plants do I need and how do I use them? The choice of what companion plants to use depends on where you live, what type of pests need to be repelled (or beneficial birds and insects attracted), the type of plants that need protection, etc. For more information see the websites listed in the links section of this guide. Some examples For control of: Japanese beetles - Rue, Tansy, Four o’clocks, White geraniums, Delphiniums Moles - Castor bean plants, “Mole” plants, Marigolds Whitefly - French marigolds Nematodes - Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, Nasturtiums To attract: Bees - Clover, Bergamot (bee balm), Lavender Butterflies - Ageratum, Aster, Bee-balm (Monarda), Black-eyed susan, Coneflower, Coreopsis, Daisy, Daylily, Hollyhock, Milkweed, Phlox, Sage, Yarrow, and many other annuals, shrubs, and trees. BFS See “Links”. Birds - Many types of plants, shrubs, and trees attract birds. Its best to plant a variety of plants so fruit is available year round. The following is a partial list:BBC o Conifers such as pines, spruces, firs, arborvitae, junipers, cedars, and yews. These plants are important as escape cover, winter shelter, and summer nesting sites. Some also provide sap, buds, and seeds. o Grasses and legumes o The same plants that attract butterflies also attract hummingbirds o Summer fruiting plants such as cherry, chokecherry, honeysuckle, raspberry, serviceberry, blackberry, blueberry, grape, mulberry, plum, and elderberry. o Fall fruiting plants such as dogwoods, mountain ash, winter-berries, cottoneasters, and buffalo-berries. o Winter fruiting plants such as black chokecherry, crabapple, snowberry, bittersweet, sumacs, American highbush cranberry, wahoo, Virginia creeper, and Chinaberry. o Nut and acorn plants such as oaks, hickories, buckeyes, chestnuts, butternuts, walnuts, and hazels. The meats of broken nuts and acorns are eaten by a variety of birds. These plants also provide good nesting habitat. Soil Preparation The key to a successful garden is proper soil preparation. The ideal soil for a vegetable garden is deep, friable, and well-drained with a high organic matter content. Proper soil preparation provides the basis for good seed germination and the subsequent growth of garden crops. Careful use of various soil amendments can improve garden soil and provide the best possible starting ground for your garden and landscape. VCE Soil preparation Check soil pH and fertility by having your soil analyzed at least once every three years. Your local Extension agent will have directions for properly collecting a soil sample. A soil test report will include the relative level of phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients in the soil. The report also will give you recommendations for the amount of lime and fertilizer to add so that your soil pH and nutrient levels are suitable for lawn, landscape plants, and garden vegetables. VCE To make a new flower or vegetable garden bed by digging: FGE 1. Remove grass or other existing vegetation with a flat spade. 2. Spread two or three inches of organic matter, well-rotted manure, leaf mold (composted leaves) or compost, over the bed. 3. With a garden spade, fork or roto-tiller, turn soil over to a depth of eight inches, breaking up heavy clods. Rake level. Create an easy no-dig flower bed: FGE Try this method if you are not in a rush to plant, and you don't mind waiting for a season. (This isn't really a problem if the season in question is winter.) You can start this project in early spring or in the fall - in either case, you'll be ready to plant by the following spring. 1. Cut existing grass at your mower's lowest setting. 2. To smother roots, spread a layer of newspaper about 12 sheets thick. 3. Over this, spread eight to 12 inches of organic matter (well-rotted manure, compost or a mix of compost and shredded leaves). Or use triple mix — a mixture of loam, manure and peat — available at garden centers. Rake level. 4. If doing this job in fall, let mound settle until spring; if doing this in spring, give it a season. Worms and soil micro-organisms will do the mixing and enriching — then plant right into the area without doing any digging. The settling action will give you a bed that's just slightly raised. FGE Just prior to planting, break up large clods of soil and rake the bed level. Small-seeded vegetables germinate best in smooth, fine-surfaced soil. Do not pulverize the seedbed soil. This destroys the structure and promotes crusting and erosion problems. VCE Soil Amendments Amendments to change pH and nutrient levels Lime and sulfur are common amendments to change soil pH. The correct soil pH is essential for optimum plant growth. Your garden may need other amendments added specifically to improve its soil nutrient levels. Greensand and granite meal are sources of potassium. Other nutritional amendments you can purchase for garden use include cottonseed meal, kelp meal, and worm castings, as well as an array of synthetic (inorganic) fertilizers. The organic amendments are particularly useful. The need for any of the previously mentioned amendments will be determined by your soil-test results. Amendments to improve soil qualities Organic matter is a great improver for both clay and sandy soils. Compost, manures, leaf mold, and organic amendments improve soil structure and thereby increase its waterholding capacity, aeration, and water infiltration. These materials are decomposed in the soil by soil organisms and their byproducts release plant nutrients and provide sites for nutrient retention. A gardener usually makes compost from plant and/or animal wastes. Composting can result in a valuable nutrient and humus source for any garden. The basis of the process is based on the microbial decomposition of mixed, raw, organic materials to a dark, fluffy product resembling rich soil, which is then spread and worked into the garden soil. Animal manures are commonly used as a garden soil amendment. The value of manure in terms of the nutrients it contains varies. They are best applied in the fall and tilled under. Manure usually has fewer total nutrients than synthetic fertilizers in terms of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), but it is a valuable soil builder. The regular addition of manure, compost, cover crops, and other organic materials can raise the soil nutrient levels and improve physical characteristics to a point at which the need for adding synthetic (inorganic) fertilizers is greatly reduced. This comes about not only through the intrinsic fertilizing value of the amendment, but also through the increased action of microorganisms on the soil and humus. Soil is the base for plant growth, and you should pay much attention to getting and keeping it in the best condition.VCE Mulch “Do not waste the elements, nor misuse them.” Baba What is mulch? Mulch is a protective covering, usually of organic matter, placed around plants to prevent the evaporation of moisture, the freezing of roots, and the growth of weeds Why should I use mulch? Mulching can be one of the most beneficial things you can do for your soil and your plants. NRCS The use of mulches in gardening should be standard practice. Researchers from many agricultural experiment stations, private industry, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture have shown striking benefits from mulch applications. Some of these benefits are listed below. UIUC Mulches conserve moisture by reducing the amount of soil water lost through evaporation. Mulches help maintain a uniform soil temperature. They act as insulators, keeping the soil warmer during cool weather and cooler during the warm months of the year. Mulches minimize soil erosion and compaction from heavy rains and aid in water penetration. Mulches help with weed problems. If the mulch material is weed-free to begin with, and if it is applied correctly, weed seeds in the soil won't germinate. Or if the mulch layer is deep, seedlings that do germinate can't push up through it. Mulches often give a neater and more finished appearance to a flower bed, evergreen or shrub plantings, or the vegetable garden. UIUC Labor saving - reduces the need for cultivation or the use of herbicides Keep plants clean by reducing the splash of soil onto leaves during rainstorms Organic mulches such as wood chips, grass clippings, or other locally available materials help improve the soil by adding organic matter as they decompose. They also may encourage the growth of worms and other beneficial soil organisms that can help improve soil structure and the availability of nutrients for plants. NRCS What types of mulch should I use and how do I use them? What is your primary objective in using mulch? If you are most interested in weed control in a vegetable garden, a layer of newspaper covered with grass clippings or just grass clippings will work well. However, if you are finishing off a beautiful perennial garden in the front of your house, you probably will want to use something more attractive such as bark mulch. How long do you want the mulch to stay in place? If you are mulching around shrubs that will remain in place for years, you may want to use inorganic mulches such as brick chips, marble chips, or stone. While these will not provide organic matter to the soil, they will be permanent. Note that they are difficult to remove if you change your mind or want to add bulbs or perennials. How much money do you want to spend? Mulching does not need to be expensive. Some communities offer chipped wood or compost to residents. Leaves, newspaper, and grass clippings are inexpensive mulches. How much will you need? To be effective, most organic mulches need to be between 2 and 4 inches thick. Therefore, a 10 feet by 10 feet garden mulched 3 inches (0.25 feet) deep will require 25 cubic feet of mulch. NRCS Types of Mulch: Bark (Hardwood) - Shredded hardwood bark is a popular mulch used in landscape plantings. It is a byproduct of the paper and lumber industries Bark (Softwood) - Chunk pine, fir, and redwood barks are the most popular types. Softwood barks are more resistant to decay than hardwood bark. Compost - An excellent mulch and soil conditioner that you can make at home by composting various types of yard wastes such as grass clippings, leaves, and plant tops from vegetables and flowers. This partially decomposed material rates as one of the best organic mulches. Lawn clippings - Grass clippings are best used when dry. If applied fresh, it should be spread loosely; otherwise, it mats down, produces heat during decomposition, and gives off an offensive odor. Do not use grass clippings from the first mowing after the lawn has been treated with pesticides. Leafmold - This mulch can be obtained by home composting of leaves or from a municipal composting facility. Leaves composted in the fall of the year will be ready for use by spring. This is a good mulch that provides some nutritional value to landscape plantings. Manure (strawy) - Makes an excellent mulch for use in gardens if partially decomposed. Aerate this mulch before using to reduce the heat of decomposition. Wood chips - This material is available from garden centers, arborists, power companies, and municipal yard waste facilities. It is very durable and makes an excellent material for covering paths and walkways. If used on landscape beds, nitrogen deficiencies will develop if fertilizer is not periodically applied. An excellent web site for information and use of many types of mulch is: Cooperative Extension Service, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign ORGANIC MULCH, David J. Williams, Department of Natural Resources and Environmental Sciences, NRES-19-97 http://www.ag.uiuc.edu/~vista/html_pubs/mulch/MULCH.html Compost & Organic Fertilizers “Unfortunately today, as a consequence of scientific and technological progress, humanness has declined and man considers the world as only intended for his enjoyment. As a result, the powers of Nature are being used in a manner which poses a great threat to the world. The world has not been created for mere enjoyment. Abusing the resources of Nature and forgetting his own basic human nature, man is going against the purpose of Creation. Many natural catastrophes are entirely due to man’s behavior.” Sathya Sai Baba, Benedictory Discourse to the XI Convocation, Vidhyagiri Stadium, November 22, 1992 What’s the problem? Toxic chemicals are contaminating groundwater on every inhabited continent, endangering the world's most valuable supplies of freshwater Several water utilities in Germany now pay farmers to switch to organic operations because this conversion costs less than removing farm chemicals from water supplies.WI Populations of honeybees, essential for pollinating crops, have shrunk precipitously Many frogs with extra legs and missing eyes have been found Pesticides are a leading suspect behind these aberrations. We're eating foods that are laden with chemicals but lack nutritional value. Synthetic fertilizers replace the nitrogen and phosphorous and potassium which are the three primary mineral requirements of the plants, but they don't replace the boron, the molybdenum, the great plethora of micro nutrients and trace minerals. It looks good, it's big, but it's not nutritionally balanced. JR What can I do about it? Compared to synthetic fertilizer formulations, organic fertilizers contain relatively low concentrations of actual nutrients, but they perform important functions which the synthetic formulations do not. They increase the organic content and consequently the water-holding capacity of the soil. They improve the physical structure of the soil which allows more air to get to plant roots. Organically derived plant nutrients are slow to leach from the soil making them less likely to contribute to water pollution than synthetic fertilizers. VGH What is compost? Composting is the biological decomposition of organic material into a humus-like substance called compost. Compost is an excellent mulch and soil conditioner that you can make at home by composting various types of yard wastes such as grass clippings, leaves, and plant tops from vegetables and flowers. This partially decomposed material rates as one of the best organic mulches. George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, James Madison, and George Washington Carver all used and promoted the use of compost. For excellent instructions on how to make compost, refer to A Homeowners Guide to Composting at http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/homecompost/ Compost is easy to make and highly beneficial to your plants and garden. Compost: Adds organic matter and humus to the soil Enhances a soil’s capacity to hold the proper balance of water, air, and nutrients that are required for plants. Its spongy consistency promotes deeper root growth, which leads to more vigorous top growth and greater drought resistance. Can be used as an excellent mulch There are many excellent websites devoted to making and using compost. Please see the links section at the end of this guide. What are organic fertilizers? Natural organic plant foods generally refer to any material derived from plant, animal or mineral origin that offers nutritional value to plants. Esp Why should I use them? The nutrients found in compost and organic plant foods are in a complex form that must be digested by microbes found in the soil in order to be released in a form for plants to absorb through their roots. This process offers several benefits to both plants and soil: • Improves Soil Structure. When microbes digest the nutrients found in organic plant foods, a by-product known as humus is created. Humus enhances a soil’s capacity to hold the proper balance of water, air, and nutrients that are required for plants. Its spongy consistency promotes deeper root growth, which leads to more vigorous top growth and greater drought resistance. • Long-Lasting, Slow Release. The process by which natural organics nutrients are released can last up to several months. As soil temperature rises, so does the plant’s need for nutrition. Microbial activity also rises with soil temperature and therefore plants receive the proper amount of nutrition as they require it. • Safe to Use. Natural organic plant foods are not considered hazardous or toxic and therefore do not pose the dangers to children, pets and the environment that are associated with pesticides and other products. • Contain Secondary & Trace Nutrients. Unlike synthetic plant foods which only offer the three major nutrients, natural organics are rich in many of the secondary and trace nutrients that are critical for optimum growth and vitality. • Won’t Burn. Organic plant foods have an extremely low salt index which greatly lowers the risk of burning the plants during a drought or if fertilizer is accidentally over applied. (Burning can be identified by plants wilting, turning brown and eventually dying.) • Won’t Leach Out of Soil. Natural organic fertilizers do not leach out of the soil. Therefore, the nutrients are consistently available when plants need them.Esp How do I use them? Simply follow the easy directions that are provided on the back of the bag. Usually you should apply the recommended amount in early spring, in late spring/early summer, and again in early fall. Sprinkle on top of the soil then rake or mix into the upper inch or so of soil. Beneficial Insects, Birds, and Animals “Birds, beasts and trees display the spirit of sacrifice.” (20-2-1992) “All creatures, like birds, fish, sheep and others are serving man in different ways” (Sathya Sai Speaks, vol. 21) In nature (Swami’s created world) all insects and creatures are important parts of a natural balanced ecosystem. However, mankind perceives those insects and creatures that aid in gardening and farming as beneficial and those that harm crops or hinder his efforts as pests. Beneficial insects perform the valuable functions of plant pollination and pest control. Insects such as ladybugs and praying mantises consume many of the insects we consider to be pests and as such are welcome in our gardens. Birds consume great quantities of insects. There is much we can do to encourage beneficial insects and wildlife to populate our gardens. What’s the problem? The use of chemical pesticides kills off beneficial insects as well as the harmful ones. The harmful insects rapidly repopulate areas that are now devoid of the beneficial insects that had been keeping the pests in check. The resulting high populations of harmful insects decimate gardens. More and higher potency pesticides are applied more frequently to counter the damage to yard and garden. Thus, a vicious cycle is created requiring the more frequent use of more potent pesticides in greater quantities as time goes on. What’s the solution? The solution is to put away those chemical pesticides and: Plant native plants that are naturally resistant to pests Utilize companion plants that are natural repellents to pests Ensure that plants are healthy by using compost, mulch, and organic fertilizers Encourage beneficial insects, birds, and other animals live in your garden and area As a last resort, use natural organic repellents and pesticides that quickly degrade to non-toxic forms. What benefit do some insects, birds, and other animals provide to my yard and garden? Beneficial insects consume harmful insects and pollinate plants, helping them grow and propagate. Birds consume a great quantity of insects and other small pests. Bees are responsible for pollinating many of our crops. What can I do to attract and keep them in my garden? Provide suitable living conditions for them Plant nectar producing flowers to provide the nectar that many beneficial insects need to survive such as angelica, bee balm, buckwheat, calendula, candytuft, ceanothus, chervil, cilantro, clover, daisy, dill, erigeron, evening primrose, fennel, goldenrod, gypsophila, lovage, parsley, Queen Anne's lace, rue, snowberry, sunflower, sweet alyssum, sweet cicely, thyme, valerian, yarrow, etc. Plan your garden to feed beneficial insects by choosing a variety of plants that will bloom as many months of the year as possible Don’t use pesticides Put up birdfeeders and bird houses Plant trees and shrubs with berries to encourage birds to visit your yard. Cover bare dirt in your garden with a light mulch thick enough to shade the soil surface. This provides shelter for small spiders, which are the number one predator of insects. GB What are some of the beneficial insects? UNH Ladybird Beetles or Ladybugs Lacewings Ground beetles Wasps Praying mantids Dragonflies Syrphid flies or flower flies Ant lions Lightning bugs Natural Pesticides and Repellents “I am the indweller of all the insects, all the birds, and animals. I am present in all the living beings.” “Non-violence means not causing harm to any living creature by thought, word and deed.” Pesticides of any kind, chemical or organic, should be avoided and used only as a last resort. Use repellents if possible since they do not kill their targets. Plant native plants that are naturally resistant to pests Utilize companion plants that are natural repellents to pests Ensure that plants are healthy by using compost, mulch, and organic fertilizers Encourage beneficial insects, birds, and other animals to live in your garden and area Use mulch to deter weeds Use repellents such as those that contain garlic, hot pepper extract, and essential oils of herbs and spices, like clove Consider the use of biopesticides (not dharmic) If you have tried the items listed above and nothing seems to work, you can turn your garden over to nature or read on. Organic pesticides are usually considered as those pesticides that come from natural sources. These natural sources are usually plants, as is the case with pyrethrum (pyrethins), rotenone or ryania (botanical insecticides), or minerals, such as boric acid, cryolite, or diatomaceous earth. Organic pesticides are largely insecticides. CU Even if a product is considered to be organic, it is still a pesticide. It is important to be careful when using any pesticide, even organic or natural pesticides. Just because a product is thought to be organic, or natural, does not mean that it is not toxic. Some organic pesticides are as toxic, or even more toxic, than many synthetic chemical pesticides. Organic pesticides have specific modes of action, just as do synthetic pesticides. Be sure to check the label before use. CU Some natural pesticides use a citrus-fruit peel base, such as from lemons and oranges. Citrus oils kill many flying and crawling insects on contact by destroying the waxy coating of the insect's respiratory system. CAG While some organic pesticides may be nontoxic or are only slightly toxic to people, they may be very toxic to other animals. For instance, the organic pesticide ryania is very toxic to fish. Also, some organic pesticides may be toxic to beneficial insects, such as honeybees, if they are combined with other materials, such as combining pyrethrins with rotenone. CU All pesticides, according to law, can only be used EXACTLY according to label directions. Be sure to carefully read the label of ANY pesticide you use and follow the instructions exactly as they are written. Be sure you use all pesticide products only when and where the label says they can be used. CU Biopesticides CU Biopesticides are an important group of pesticides that can reduce pesticide risks. The two types of biopesticides are biochemical and microbial. Biochemical pesticides may have a similar structure to, and function like, naturally occurring chemicals, and have nontoxic modes of action. Insect pheromones, for example, are naturally-occurring chemicals that insects use to locate mates. Man-made pheromones are used to disrupt insect mating by creating confusion during the search for mates, or can be used to attract male insects to traps. Pheromones are often used to detect or monitor insect populations, or in some cases, to control them. Microbial insecticides are another kind of biopesticide. They come from naturallyoccurring or genetically altered bacteria, fungi, algae, viruses or protozoans. They suppress pests by: Producing a toxin specific to the pest; Causing a disease; Preventing establishment of other microorganisms through competition; or Other modes of action. An example of a microbial pesticide is Bacillus thuringiensis, or "Bt." Bacillus thuringiensis is a naturally occurring soil bacteria that is toxic to the larvae of several species of insects but not toxic to nontarget organisms. Bacillus thuringiensis can be applied to plant foliage or incorporated into the genetic material of crops. Bacillus thuringiensis, as discovered, is toxic to the caterpillars (larvae) of moths and butterflies. Several strains of Bt have been developed and now strains are available that control fly larvae. These can be used in controlling mosquitoes and blackflies. See the list of links at the end of this guide for more information. In my experience, organic gardening is easier than control-oriented power gardening. When you use planting patterns found in nature, you don't need to maintain combative "chainsaw" relationships with your plants. I design beds and borders so a plant's natural attribute (like a gentle weeping form) is an asset, not a detriment, to the surrounding plants. I don't try to alter the essential nature of a plant or my soil; instead, I simply take advantage of their strengths. I'm not an expert on pests and diseases because I rarely deal with either of them. By leaving plenty of native plants along my property edges, I provide habitat, cover, and fodder for wildlife. Those wild edges also support beneficial insects that are natural predators of pesky ones.AL What I like best about organic gardening is the result--an easygoing, healthy haven full of birds, blossoms, and beauty. My garden is a place overflowing with ease and comfort, not endless chores and problems. That feels great to me.AL References 1. Swami Quote 2. Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat and Conservation Landscaping, Chesapeake 3. 4. 5. Bay Watershed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service http://www.nps.gov/plants/pubs/chesapeake/pdf/chesapeakenatives.pdf Swami Quote Bowman's Hill Wildflower Preserve, P.O. Box 685, New Hope, PA, 18938-0685, Phone: 215-862-2924, e-mail: http://www.bhwp.org Sylva Native Nursery & Seed Company, 3815 Roser Road, Glen Rock, PA 17327, Phone: 717-227-0486, Fax: 717-227-0484, e-mail: sylvanat@aol.com Swami Quote The Virginia Gardener Handbook, Diane Relf, Editor 6. 7. 8. Worldwatch Institute (WI) 9. Espoma website: http://www.espoma.com 10. An Interview with John Robbins, educator, pioneer and best-selling author of Diet for a New America. By Dennis Hughes, Share Guide Publisher (JR) 11. Ann Lovejoy, author of Ann Lovejoy's Organic Garden Design School, by Rodale Press. For more information about Rodale Organic Gardening magazine and books, visit www.organicgardening.com (AL) 12. Clean Air Gardening www.cleanairgardening.com/organicbuyers.html (CAG) 13. Companion Planting from David Beaulieu, http://landscaping.about.com/cs/soilsfertilizers/a/companion_plant.htm (DB) 14. Cooperative Extension Service, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign ORGANIC MULCH, David J. Williams, Department of Natural Resources and Environmental Sciences, NRES-19-97 http://www.ag.uiuc.edu/~vista/html_pubs/mulch/MULCH.html (UIUC) 15. Benefits of Mulch United States Department of Agriculture Natural Resources Conservation Service, P.O. Box 2890 Washington, DC 20013 http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/FEATURE/backyard/benmulch.html (NRCS) 16. http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/homecompost/ 17. Make friends with your “good bugs” http://www.govlink.org/hazwaste/house/yard/problems/goodbugs.cfm (GB) 18. The Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service ORGANIC PESTICIDES http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC2756.htm (CU) 19. The Butterfly Site, http://www.thebutterflysite.com/gardening.shtml (BFS) 20. The Baltimore Bird Club, http://baltimorebirdclub.org/by/attract.html (BBC) 21. Virginia Cooperative Extension http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/envirohort/426313/426-313.html (VCE) 22. Flower Gardening Made Easy, http://www.flower-gardening-madeeasy.com/soil.html (FGE) Useful Website Links Native Plants for Central Maryland Landscapes Piedmont and Inner Coastal Plain http://www.mdflora.org/publications/natplantsframe.html Maryland Native Plant Society http://www.mdflora.org/index.html Delaware Native Plant Society www.delawarenativeplants.org Pennsylvania Native Plant Society www.pawildflower.org Native Plant Information http://www.nativeplantinfo.org New England Wild Flower Society Links Page www.newfs.org/nps.htm NatureServe www.natureserve.org Extremely Green website (Organic fertilizer and gardening supplies) http://www.extremelygreen.com/fertilizerguide.cfm The National Organic Program http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/Consumers/Consumerhome.html Sources of Organic Fertilizers and Amendments http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/orgfert.php National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service for details on companion planting http://www.attra.org/attra-pub/complant.html. Benefits of Mulching http://www.gardenstew.com/blog/e3-15-mulching-benefits--organic-and-inorganic-mulchtypes.html Earth Kind Gardening, http://organiclifestyles.tamu.edu/vegetables/soilpreparation.html Maryland Cooperative Extension, http://extension.umd.edu/gardening/index.cfm