Course: Fashion in History: A Global Look, 1300-2000
WEEK 5. Tuesday 28 October 2008
WORLDS WITH NO FASHION?
FASHION AND IDENTITY IN EUROPE AND ASIA
1. Did Fashion Exist outside Europe?
- Simmel and Flugel: costume and fashion
- Braudel: the absence of Extra-European Fashion
- Critique of Braudel
- Revisionism: Fashion outside Europe
- sinologists (Craig Clunas)
- conditions
- personal freedom
- urbanisation
- intermediaries
- luxury
2. European Fashion and the Extra-European World
- The Contribution of Asia
- Fashion as material, not form
- Explanations
- Openness of European society
- ‘Archipelago of Cities’ (Janet Abu-Lughod)
- the concept of ‘novelty’
3. How ‘Exotic’ was Extra-European Dress?
- Dress and Identities
- The importance of surfaces
- Creating a ‘Turk’
- the turban
- The role of sacred imagery
- Imagery and the denial of fashion
- Men’s and women’s clothes
4. The intensification of Contact
- The Intensification of Direct Contact
- Exotic Objects
- Sartorial Encounters
- The Portuguese in Japan
- The Jesuits in China
- Bellini and Mehmed II
5. Books of Costume
- Types
- unpublished
- Album Amicorum
- Published
- Subject Matter
- personal
- single places
- wider geographies
- What did they Represent?
- How were they Made?
- What was their Use?
Manuscripts
Matthaus Schwarz
(banker)
Jorg Praun (tailor)
Christopher Weiditz
Hans Niedermayer
(monk)
Giovanni Jacopo del
Conte (?) (tailor)
Anonymous Flemish
student
Publications
Enea Vico
François Desprez
Ferdinando Bertelli
Pietro Bertelli
Bartolomeo Grassi
Alexandro de Fabri
Giacomo Franco
Cesare Vecellio
Trachtenbuch
1550 c.
Meisterstuckbuch
1501
Trachtenbuch
From 1529
1544-68
Libro del Sarto
1580 c.
‘Codice Bottacin’
1616
Diversarum
Gentium Nostrae
Aetatis Habitus
Recueil de la
Diversité des
Habits
Omnium Fere
Gentium Nostrae
Aetatis Habitus
Varie Acconciature
di Teste
Dei Veri Ritratti
dell’Habiti
Diversarum
Nationum Ornatus
Habiti delle donne
Venetiane
Habiti d’Huomini et
Donne Venetiane
Habiti Antichi et
Moderni di tutto il
Mondo
Venice,
1556
137 garments that the author
wore during his life
30 liturgical vests, noble and
bourgeois garments worn in
Innsbruck. It includes indications
on materials and shapes.
154 plates, starting with Spain and
the Netherlands. It includes also 3
images of costumes in America
100 illustrations of the clothes of
the resident of Innsbruck.
Costume of famous people in
Northern Italy.
33 plates of Italian (especially the
Veneto) people
98 illustrations of people around
the world.
Paris, 1560
1563
Plagiarising Vico
1570
Only on hair
1585
Padua,
1593
Venice,c.
1595-1605
1590 and
1598