COSTUME TECHNOLOGY
I
Fall 2009 THEA 2373
MONDAY AND WEDNESDAY 8:00 TO 10:30 am.
IN WORTHAM ROOM 140
INSTRUCTOR: CLAREMARIE VERHEYEN #29625
OFFICE: ROOM "D" IN WT. 133
PHONE NUMBER 743-2918
“E” cverheyen@uh.edu
COSTUME STUDIO SUPERVISOR: George Curry
OFFICE WT. 140 STUDIO PHONE NUMBER: 743-2108
OBJECTIVES:
1.
encourage your ability to analyze, examine and solve costume
complications that arise in performance situations.
2.
familiarize you with the vocabulary, equipment, materials and skills
useful in the organization of a theatre costume facility.
3.
introduce you to the basic materials, supplies and crafts utilized in
basic theatrical clothing construction.
4.
expand your understanding and appreciation of the art of design as well as the
craft and technology of costume construction, alterations and fittings.
5.
achieve an elementary skill level in clothing technology.
6.
sharpen your ability to recognize and appreciate the contribution of the
craft of costume in the performing arts.
7.
nurture your capacity to execute survival costume technology.
TEXT: THE COSTUME TECHNICIAN'S HANDBOOK, 3rd Edition
BY ROSEMARY INGHAM AND LIZ COVEY.
MATERIALS NEEDED FOR CLASSROOM PROJECTS ALL CLEARLY LABELED
WITH YOUR NAME AND AVAILABLE AT THE SECOND CLASS MEETING.
THE KIT:
1.
A CONTAINER, CIGAR BOX, BREAD TIN OR PLASTIC BOX TO SERVE
AS YOUR SEWING CONTAINER. .....identified
2.
A PAIR OF FABRIC SHEARS WITH 7" TO 8" BLADE.......identified
3.
A CLOTH MEASURING TAPE.........identified
4.
A SEAM RIPPER. …..identified
5.
A PIECE OF WHITE MARKING CHALK, EITHER WAX OR STONE.
6.
A 6 SIX INCH "C" THRU RULER OR STRAIGHT EDGE.....identified
7.
A BOX OF STRAIGHT PINS WITH OPTIONAL PIN CUSHION....identified
8.
A NOTCHED TRACING WHEEL............identified
9.
HAND SEWING NEEDLES, (Mixed "Sharps" or Mixed "In-Betweens".)
10.
A COLOR CODED PLATOON APRON WITH IDENTIFICATION INSIGNIA
GRADES:
THERE WILL BE POINT VALUES ASSIGNED TO EACH PROJECT OR
SUBMISSION.
YOUR GRADE WILL BE BASED ON THE PERCENTAGE OF THE
POSSIBLE POINTS AVAILABLE THAT YOU EARN DURING THIS SESSION.
Spring 2009 THEA 2373
ASSIGNMENTS ARE GIVEN AS INDICATED IN THE SYLLABUS AND,
UNLESS OTHERWISE INDICATED, ARE DUE AND CREDITED TO YOUR
ACCOUNT AT THE CLASS MEETING ASSIGNED.
N.B. An important aspect of WORKING for the theatre is meeting deadlines. There will be no
exceptions. Work will be graded as submitted on the due date. Failure to submit a project on time is
heavily penalized.
A PROJECT TURNED IN LATE MAY RECEIVE ONLY A MAXIMUM
OF 50% OF ITS POTENTIAL VALUE.
Your grade will be based on the number of pts. you EARN
during the semester: 90-100% = A; 80-89%= B; 70-79%
= C; 60-69% = D; 59% or less = F.
ATTENDANCE: You are required to attend each class meeting and the departmental
guidelines will be followed relative to a three unit class. AFTER accumulating three
absences in this course your grade will be dropped for each additional absence. .
TWO TARDIES WILL EQUAL ONE ABSENCE. LEAVING CLASS EARLY WILL COUNT AS A
TARDY.
YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO SEE ALL DEPARTMENTAL PRODUCTIONS AND TYPE A
REVIEW FOR EACH OF THE MAIN STAGE PLAYS.
Classes will begin promptly as scheduled. Attendance will be taken in the first 10
minutes of the class meeting. You will be assessed a tardy if you arrive after attendance
is taken. You will be counted absent if you are over a half hour late.
Storage:
Each of you will be assigned a space on a designated shelf in the classroom. Please
keep all of your materials, equipment and "project in progress" in your space when they
are not in use. If a project must be left out and not disturbed, you need to do two thing:
first, clear it with a studio officer and then announce to the class that you are delayed in
completion: second, tag the project with your name and projected completion so that
others are aware of your predicament. No project qualifies for this status after the studio
closes in the afternoon at 6PM
Clean up.
Each of you is responsible for helping to maintain order. This means turning off any
equipment you have turned on, (including lights), clearing work stations and returning
supplies that you have utilized. This is essential not only for efficiency; but, both
neatness and order is an aspect of your craftsmanship and will be taken into account in
your grade. We all share this studio. Respect for others work is a reflection of your
artistic integrity
SHOP REGULATIONS
WILL BE REVIEWED AND EXPLAINED IN THE FIRST WEEK OF THE CLASS AND WILL BE
STRICTLY OBSERVED. PLEASE NOTE. DURING THE SCHEDULED WORKSHOP MEETING
THERE WILL BE NO EATING, DRINKING OR CELL PHONES IN THE STUDIO SPACE. VISITORS
WILL NOT BE ALLOWED. USE OF THE TELEPHONE IS PROHIBITED DURING SCHEDULED
WORK.
Books of special interest to costume technology and introduced in the pattern session are
as follows:
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Spring 2009 THEA 2373
HILL AND BUCKNELL. THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION.
MOTLEY. DESIGNING AND MAKING STAGE COSTUMES.
WAUGH, NORAH. CORSETS AND CRINOLINES.
WAUGH, NORAH. THE CUT OF MEN'S CLOTHE
WAUGH NORAH. THE CUT OF WOMEN'S CLOTHES.
DREHRER, DENISE. FROM THE NECK UP.
ARNOLD, JANET. PATTERNS OF FASHION VOLS, 1 ,2, AND 3.
HOLLEN. PATTERN MAKING BY THE FLAT PATTERN METHOD.
SHAW, WILLIAM. BASIC PATTERN DRAFTING FOR THE THEATRICAL
COSTUME DESIGNER.
KOHLER, CARL. HISTORY OF COSTUME.
Wk.
1.
Day
W.
Events
INTRODUCTION: the process; the purpose; the challenge;
Syllabus introduction, supplies and text discussion.
Assign aprons and platoons,
Assignment: Read pp. 1-58, Chapters #1 & #2 in your HANDBOOK
Acquire supplies by next class. 10 points if labeled
N.B. PROJECT pts. AT CHECK IN.
Explanation of tools and variations Q and A.
Tour costume. facilities,
Assignment of platoon sergeants, corporals and privates.
Scavenger Hunt
Buy Pull or Find 2 ½ yards of 100 % cotton for your apron project
2.
M.
CHAPTER I Costume shop organization and equipment.
Handouts on health and safety. Discussion and demonstrations.
Check in supplies already properly labeled for 10 pts.
Check in fabric for apron needed in two weeks for project launch
Hand out of machine stitching exercises.
Demonstration of threading, bobbin and basic operations
Each student will thread a machine and thread a bobbin
W/ Hand out of hand sewing sampler fabric
Demonstration hand sewing tools and equipment, basic basting, half back
full back and whip stitch.
Assi. Review for quiz on M 50 point on H. & S.
Discussion of Chapters 1 and 2
Discuss the machine and hand sewing check sheet
Rehearse machine threading, bobbin winding and basic operations
Continue on paper and clothe samplers.
Review hand sewing lock stitch and cross or catch stitch.
Samplers will be due in class on Monday of week four
and are to be completed outside of class time as needed.
.
W.
3.
M.
QUIZ 50 POINTS on health and safety chapter.
Apron introduction
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Spring 2009 THEA 2373
W/
4. M
W.
5.
M.
W.
.
6.
M.
W.
7.
M
Pattern terminology and demonstration.
Pattern layout
Demonstration of apron layout with pattern schematics
Handout pattern schematic and apron instructions
Assi. read apron instructions
Layout marking and cutting
hand sewing samplers due next M.. (50 pts.)
machine sewing samplers due next M.. (50 pts.)
Students will complete apron check sheet #1
Assi: Finish cutting out pattern by next Monday’s class meeting.(20pts)
Samplers due, total 100 points. 50 pts. @.machine & hand.
Preliminary construction demonstration of apron parts.
Demonstrate serging , apron ties and pin cushion
Demonstrate bib construction: work on these steps.
Pleats and top stitching
Demonstration of edge stitch foot
check in all marked pattern pieces (20 pts.)
Discuss pleat preparation
Completion of check sheet #2
OVERVIEW OF COMMERCIAL PATTERN
TECHNOLOGY, JARGON AND INFORMATION;
Distribute first of commercial pattern projects and discuss.
Dart terminology and technique
Review of Closures
Discussion and demonstration, snaps, hooks eyes and bars.
Apron work session
begin work check sheet #3
Assi; complete closures 20 pts by next Monday.
Attend a performance of DEPARTMENTAL MAIN STAGE
PRODUCTION and type the critique with formal evaluation of MSP.
Review due at the class meeting following production’s closure.
Read chapter on Fabric in Handbook.
Overview and discussion of Fabric.
Show and Tell Fabric session in Swatch Barrel.
discussion of bias binding
Lecture on" FABRICS"
Demonstration of buttons and buttonholes
Apron work session
Check sheet #4 completed by Monday 25 points.
Assi: prepare for midterm examination. Focus will be on fabric.(100 pts).
Fabric burn test and demonstration
Review health and safety, sewing terminology and fabric facts for
midterm examination (100 pts.)
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Spring 2009 THEA 2373
W.
Apron work session, apron complete for 100 pts. Worn at final
examination
Review due (25 pts).
Midterm exam will be written and apx. one hour in the classroom prior to
the apron work session in the studio.
8.
M.
Commercial Pattern section. A 2nd garment pattern will be
distributed and discussed.
The garment will have a details outlined in pattern packet TBA.
Fabric will be approved, washed and pressed
Seam Sampler demonstration and discussion
A discussion of the instruction sheet will follow.
The garments will be laid out during the studio session and labeled
They will be cut by next class meeting
W/
9.
M.
Garments cut out and checked at the beginning of the class. 50 points.
Markings checked and verified and Patterns removed from the cloth and returned
to the platoon leader. Begin first steps of garment pattern construction.
Garment will be complete and submitted as part of Final Examination and will be
worth 100 points.
W.
10.
Discussion of pattern project #1 . Measurement demonstration
Spring break.
11.
M.
W.
Work on commercial pattern projects as needed
Work on commercial pattern projects as needed
12.
M.
W.
Work on commercial pattern project.
Work on commercial pattern projects as needed
13.
M.
Fitting demonstration check the partners fit and switch to partner
W.
14.
15.
16.
M.
Work on commercial pattern projects as needed
W.
Work on commercial pattern projects as needed
M.
Work on personal garment
W.
Work on personal garment
M.
Review Health and Safety materials, fabric and machine information
in preparation and review for the final examination
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Spring 2009 THEA 2373
W.
Q and A on final examination and project work.
Final Exam as published in University Schedule May 13 11 am to 2 am Final
presentation and Exam
Wearing personal apron project,
N.B.
Only the instructor may change dates and project assignments
Always wear your labeled team apron to class.
Always bring your textbook and sewing kit to classroom and studio sessions
unless otherwise instructed.
Remember these skills are cumulative and they are built on each other.
Missing a session can jeopardize your progress and your grade.
Quizzes can and will be given at any time.
COSTUME STUDIO RULES/REGULATIONS
1.
ATTENDANCE AT ALL CLASSES IS EXPECTED.
2.
CLASSES BEGIN PROMPTLY AS SCHEDULED EXCEPT WHEN
ADJUSTMENTS ARE ESTABLISHED BY THE INSTRUCTOR.
3.
SMOKING, EATING AND DRINKING IN THE STUDIO OR
CLASSROOM DURING ANY ACTIVITY OR WORK SESSION IS PROHIBITED.
4.
VISITORS ARE NOT ALLOWED DURING EITHER THE
WORKSHOP OR LECTURES.
5.
EMERGENCIES EXCEPTED, THE USE OF THE TELEPHONE WILL
NOT BE ALLOWED. THIS INCLUDES PERSONAL CELL PHONES & TEXT
MESSAGING.
6.
PERSONAL PARAPHERNALIA MUST BE STORED IN ASSIGNED
SPACE OR IT WILL BE CONFISCATED.
7.
THE LECTURE PORTION OF THE CLASS IS INSTRUCTION FOR
THE STUDIO SESSION. YOU WILL BE GIVEN INSTRUCTION SHEETS THAT
YOU WILL BE EXPECTED TO APPLY TO EACH OF THE ASSIGNMENTS.
8.
A WORKROOM IN THE MEN'S DRESSING ROOM, ROOM WT118,
WILL BE AVAILABLE IF NECESSARY TO KEEP CURRENT WITH
EACH ASSIGNEMENT. THE KEY MUST BE CHECKED OUT FROM
THE SHOP SUPERVISOR AND RETURNED IMMEDIATELY. A $25
FEE WILL BE CHARGED FOR IT’S LOSS.
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