Free edge
Nail Wall
Luna (half moon)
Nail Plate
Cuticle
Nail Wall
The skin at the sides and base of a fingernail or toenail.
Free Edge
The end of the nail that extends beyond the finger tip
Nail Plate
The main part of the nail, attached to the skin at the tip of the
finger
Cuticle
Situated between the skin of the finger and the nail plate, and acts
as a watertight seal that prevents bacteria from entering.
Luna
Situated at the base of the nail, often referred to as the half moon.
It is the visible part of the matrix. It is light coloured, soft and
easily damaged.
Matrix
Not seen on visual inspection. The matrix controls the rate of
growth of the nail, and determines the thickness and width of the
nail. Damages to the matrix can be seen on the nail plate, and
may cause permanent deformities in nail growth i.e. heavy filing,
shutting finger in a door.
Factors that can affect the growth and health of the natural nail
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Illness
Aging
Nail biting
Excessive use of detergents
Calcium deficiency
Poor diet
Injury
Hygiene
Contact with solvents
Harsh weather conditions
Sarah O’Donoghue © 2007
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Manicures…
 are a vital aspect of hand & nail care (ideally you
should have one every 2 weeks)
 help to maintain nails and prevent problems such as
breaking, splitting, flaking, peeling.
 prevent hands from becoming dry, & chapped
 prevent cuticle from grabbing the nail plate as your
nail grows thus slowing down nail growth.
 by pushing cuticles back the nails grow stronger and healthier.
 for clients with extremely dry hands, a paraffin wax treatment could be
recommended as part of their manicure.
Items required for manicure
Equipment
Implements
/tools
Materials
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Manicure Table/trolley
Chairs
Lamp
Nail scissors
Nail files & buffers
Cuticle nippers
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Sterilisation jar/ barbicide jar
Manicure Bowel
Towels
-Bin
Orange wood stick/ hoof stick
Nail brush
Spatula
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Steriliser/barbicide
Hand sanitiser
Cotton wool & nail wipes
Cotton buds
Nail polish remover
Cuticle remover cream
Cuticle oil
Coloured nail polishes
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Base coat
Top coat
Nail hardener
Hand cream
Latex gloves
Tisses/beauty roll/kitchen roll
Quick dry spray
Hand soak
Explanation of key items
Hand Sanitiser
 Kill bacteria and are absolutely essential to use.
 Available in a number of formats / types e.g.
1. Anti bacterial hand wash (used with water) available from supermarkets and
pharmacies e.g. Carex, Dettol etc.
2. Dry wash (no water required) e.g. Cuticura gel
3. Sanitising spray (usually used by professionals) ideal as it doesn’t require water
and it is quick and easy to use.
 It is important to sanitise your hands and a clients hands before any contact is
made with a client or treatment is carried out. Clients may be carrying bacteria e.g.
from going to the toilet and not washing their hands, picking their nose, colds etc.
Sarah O’Donoghue © 2007
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 Front and backs of hands should be sanitised.
 While sanitising, hands should be checked for contra indications e.g. warts,
allergies, fungal infections, psoriasis or eczema.
 Clients should also be asked about diabetes, heart or thyroid medication or any
other condition that may affect the manicure treatment.
Nail Varnish remover
 Types available:
1. Non acetone / acetone free polish remover
2. Oil based polish remover
3. Polish remover containing acetone
 Non acetone (acetone free) is ideal as it does not dry or dehydrate the nail causing
it to become brittle.
Nail wipes
Used for cleaning the nails and removing polish. They are lint free so they do not leave
any residue of fluff on the nails.
Nail files and buffers
 Files are available in different materials, grits, shapes and sizes.
 They should always be sanitised before and after use. But ideally files should be
disposed of or given to the client after use i.e. use a new file for each client.
 Emery boards are kinder than metal files. They are available in different grades and
coarseness. Unless the nails are extremely strong it is best to opt for fine grades of
emery.
 Buffers usually have three sides to smooth, buff and shine the nail. The buffer is
rubbed over the nail plate to remove ridging, flaking or peeling and to make the
nail smooth. The nail is then buffed to give a natural looking shine.
Manicure bowl
Any small bowl that the hand can fit into will suffice. However
there are specially shaped manicure bowls which are more
comfortable for the client and are quite inexpensive to buy.
Cuticle remover
This is applied to the cuticle and massaged in before soaking. It softens the cuticle and
helps to remove dead cuticle.
Hand soak
This is placed in the manicure bowl with warm water. It gives the water a nice
fragrance and assists with the softening of the cuticle area.
Sarah O’Donoghue © 2007
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Hoof stick
This a plastic stick with a rubber end which is used to push back the
cuticle area after soaking. It should always be sanitised before and
after use.
Orange wood stick
This is used in the same way as a hoof stick but must have the tip covered with cotton
wool. It must be disposed off immediately after use and should not be used on another
client. It is used to push back softened cuticles and clean behind the nails.
Cuticle Oil
This is used…
 To moisturise and condition the cuticle and the nail. It helps prevent: dry cracked
cuticles, hard sharp bits of skin around the nail area, hang nails, and dry nail plates
which can flake break, split, peel etc. and cause problems.
 for people who are nail pickers as they only tend to pick the cuticles when they are
dry.
Base coat
Always use a base coat to prevent polish staining the natural nail. Base coat provides a
surface on which coloured nail polish can be applied.
Different types of base coat are available: regular, anti staining, treatment base coats
that help with problem nails e.g. peeling, dry, dehydrated, ridged or weak nails.
Top coat
It is important to use top coat to seal colour in and prevent colour from chipping. It
gives polish colour a high gloss shine. Applying top coat every second day helps to
prolong the life of the coloured polish and prevents chipping.
Quick dry spray
This is a spray that is used to dry polish. The spray container is held two inches away
from polished nails and sprayed. This puts an oil coating over the polish to help stop
smudging. Within two minutes the nails should be touch dry.
Latex gloves
These should be worn when performing a treatment on a client with a condition such
as a wart. They can also can be worn to prevent your own polish from coming off when
using nail polish remover on a client.
Hand towel
Hand towels are folded and placed on the table to support the client’s hands. They
should be covered at all times with tissue / beauty roll. Towels should be washed at a
minimum 60 degrees
Sarah O’Donoghue © 2007
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Steriliser
Every table should have a glass barbicide jar for sterilising equipment.
Tools take three hours in the liquid to be sterilised.
Manicure table
 Height and width are important otherwise you will have to stretch, lean forward
or crouch which will be bad for posture and uncomfortable for the client (if the
tables that you have are not suitable use ironing boards).
 Near to electrical point – no trailing flexes to prevent accidents
 Uncluttered and neat - looks professional, enables thorough disinfection between
clients, promotes clean & tidy work habits.
 Disinfection – place tools in sterilising jar containing barbicide prior to treatment,
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and place on right hand side of table (if right handed). Sanitise work station - to
give the client confidence in your hygiene standards, sanitise the work surface in
the client’s presence
Arm Support for Client – an arm rest for the client makes them more
comfortable, and safer for you. If an arm rest in not available, a clean rolled up
towel should suffice.
Covered appropriately with clean/sanitised towel and beauty roll
Equipment – gather all necessary implements & materials, and position on the
right side of the table (if right handed). Polishes should be placed on the opposite
side.
Bin – preferably with swing lid to minimise strong odours. Should be underneath
table to dispose of waste.
Basic Manicure Routine
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Spray fronts & backs of client’s hands with hand
sanitizer spray, and spray your own hands in
front of the client.
If your client is wearing polish, remove it with Nail
Varnish Remover and Cotton Wool pad.
File natural nails on one hand to the desired
shape; round or square
Apply cuticle cream to the cuticles and massage
in. Soak this hand in a manicure bowl containing
manicure hand soak and warm water.
Repeat steps 2 -4 with the other hand
Dry first hand with tissues
Push back cuticles with plastic hoof stick/orange wood stick with cotton
wool wrapped around the end.
Buff nails with 3-way buffer & apply cuticle oil
Sarah O’Donoghue © 2007
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Dry off the second hand with tissues
Repeat steps 6 – 8 on the other hand
Apply hand cream and massage both hands below the wrist.
Wipe the nails with some non-acetone nail polish remover on cotton wool
pad to remove excess creams and oils
By now you should have advised your client on what
products she needs to keep her nails looking well i.e.
treatments, cuticle oil, hand cream, cuticle cream etc.
Take payment for the service and for the products
they wish to purchase. Do this before you polish the
nails because they will smudge when wet. If the client
needs to get her car keys out or put on a
jumper/jacket now is the time to do this!
Polish the client’s nails.
Spray polished nails with Quick Dry Spray.
Polish Finishes
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5.
Regular - colour e.g. pink, red etc.
French Manicure - White tip (tippex white) followed by natural pink over whole nails
American Manicure - Cream tip followed by clear polish over whole nail
London Manicure - Pearlised pink over whole nail followed by soft white on tip
Nail art – coloured polish with designs applied on top using other colours, gems,
glitter etc.
2,3, and 4 above tend to be applied more in the summer and on bridal parties.
Fashionable Nail polish colours
 Spring/summer colours tend to be vibrant pinks, neon orange, coral colours, whites
etc.
 Autumn winter colours tend to be burgundy, chocolate brown, black, navy blue etc.
 Christmas colours tend to be wines, deep reds, burgundy, gold and anything that
glitters or sparkles.
How
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a manicure for a male differs from a manicure for a female
Nails are filed to a shorter length
Nails are shaped square rather than oval
The coloured nail polish is omitted
Nails are buffed if a shine is required
Un-perfumed lotions are used for hand massage
A deeper movement is used during the arm and hand massage
Sarah O’Donoghue © 2007
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Nail extensions…
 For clients who want to extend the length of their nails.
 Tips are adhered to the natural nail and one of the following
systems is applied; acrylic, gel or fibreglass.
 Finished look can be natural, polished, or French (white tip)
Acrylic
 Acrylic is the hardest wearing of all three systems and is recommended for
clients who are heavy handed i.e. key board users, or nail bitters.
 Involves the use of liquid & powder, hardens when applied to the natural nail
and tip to form a nail enhancement which is then filed into shape.
 Removal: soak in acetone to dissolve the acrylic
Gel
 For people who have continuous contact with water i.e. nurses, swimmers,
doctors, stay-at-home mothers, cleaners or people working in the food industry.
 Layers of gel are brushed onto natural nail and tip which bond and harden under
UV light, and results in a glossy, shiny finish
 Removal: only by buffing (filing), as it is resilient to solvents i.e. acetone
Fibreglass
 The weakest of the three systems and is ideal for clients wishing to protect their
own nails whilst growing them, or for nails that have a split or crack.
 Fibreglass or silk strips are applied, and several coats of resin (type of glue) are
applied to form a smooth layer. Nails are buffed and filed to the correct shape
and length.
 Removal: soak in acetone.
Paraffin Wax…
 Is a treatment that can be incorporated into a manicure
for those with very dry skin or arthritis, it improves
circulation and restores skin colour.
 Clients’ hands are placed in warm wax, which sets on
removal
 hands are placed in plastic liners and special mittens for
15 minutes, to retain the warmth & intensify
moisturisation.
 Wax is removed and treatment ends with a light massage and application of a
suitable day cream.
Sarah O’Donoghue © 2007
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Nail Art
 Nail art adds glam for a special occasion.
 The simplest nail art involves the use of gems which come in a variety of
colours, glitter, transfers and coloured stripers etc.
 Not all clients want crazy nails, but nail art can be subtle and beautiful.
Exfoliation
 An exfoliation product can be applied as part of a manicure service to remove
dead skin and leave hands soft
Sarah O’Donoghue © 2007
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Grooming
Present yourself in a professional manner, be well groomed at all
times – the more professional you look, the more confidence
your client will have in you. Maintain good standards of personal
hygiene.
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Clean uniform
Hair clean & tied back
Clean, manicured nails – a must!
Make-up on
Limited jewellery – no dangling bracelets
Fresh breath – but no chewing gum
Shower/bath & antiperspirant every morning
Meet & Greet
 Greet the client on arrival, never ignore them, even if you’re busy, tell them you’ll
be with them in a moment – remember, first impressions last
 Smile & make good eye-contact
 Always have a cheerful and courteous manner towards clients & colleagues
 Portray good body language – don’t cross arms, nod in agreement.
 Try to run your appointments on time, however, if you are running late, always
apologise to your clients, and offer them a coffee/tea.
Client Consultation
 At the start of every treatment, the client should fill out a client record card with
their personal details, this is a legal requirement.
 Required information: Name, address, contact number, technician that looked after
them, date of treatment, name of treatment, products purchased, contra
indications (treatment may need to be stopped if they have a serious contra
indication)
During the treatment
 Ask relevant questions at the start of client’s treatment i.e.
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How long is it since your last manicure?
What problems do you have with your nails?
What products are you using to look after them at home?
 Advise the client on what products she needs to use to look after her nails at home.
 Be a good listener
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so you can reply naturally
so you can ask the client to clarify if you are unsure
So you can repeat what they have asked for i.e. so what you want is…?
Listening actively will allow and encourage client to talk openly
Your client will feel valued if you are attentive
They will enjoy their treatment and will be more likely to return
Sarah O’Donoghue © 2007
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Professionalism
 Be efficient and a good time keeper
 Follow all health & safety regulations
 Good product knowledge, be willing to learn –
keep learning throughout career & keep
constantly up to date, have regular training
 Confidentiality is vital - do not gossip about
other clients or members of staff
 Never bad mouth other nail technicians or
salons – highly unprofessional
 Be careful of becoming too familiar with clients
 Do not take your clientele for granted - Clients
always have a choice
 Remember the client is paying for your time, make them feel important, treat them
with respect and do not rush them.
 Never argue with clients
 Never use bad language while treating client, keep conversation professional at all
times
 Be loyal, never complain, especially in front of clients if you’re having a bad day
 Your conversation should be about them and not you
Complaints
 Always listen to the customer to establish the problem
 Apologise, sympathise, empathise with the situation, and if the client is unhappy
with, for example, a set of nails or manicure, offer a complimentary treatment, and
perhaps some products for the client to take home.
 Thank the client for bringing the matter to your attention
 Always remain calm, do not raise your voice or lose your temper, as this will
aggravate the situation
 Remember an unhappy client will tell 10 customers, so you need to ensure she is
happy leaving the salon, so she will return
 Customer care is the key to our business, so give 5 star service at all times, no
matter what the situation
Sarah O’Donoghue © 2007
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Guidelines for daily homecare routine
 Nails are jewels not tools – treat them with care
 Use rubber gloves when using chemicals
 Always rinse hands well with a mild, non-drying soap
and dry with soft towel
 Remove rings before washing to prevent build up of
soap - could cause a reaction
 Good nutrition improves condition of nails i.e. lots of
fruit & veg.
Products used to care for own hands and nails
Hand Cream
Cuticle oil/cream
Natural nail file
3-way buffer
Base
coat/treatment for
the nail
Non-acetone nail
polish remover
Manicure bowl
Hoof stick
Hand exfoliator /
Microdermabrasion
treatment
Sarah O’Donoghue © 2007
Always massage hand cream into skin to re-hydrate and
prevent dryness after washing hands
Massage cuticle oil into cuticles and nails twice daily to
moisturise and condition
File nails regularly to smoothen edges, rather than picking
or biting, as this will damage the nail layers.
Buffing nails increases circulation which stimulates nail
growth, and makes them stronger and healthier
Always use base coat if using nail polish
Use strengtheners or treatments to improve condition of
nail
Avoid overuse of harsh nail polish removers – use nonacetone remover
Soak hands and push back cuticles once a week to
promote nail growth & health
Exfoliate hands once a week to remove dry, dull, dead
skin, and to leave hands smooth and soft
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