Welcome Herding enthusiasts!
I am going to give you a little advance “homework” to help prepare you for herding class at camp this
summer. If you have never done herding, you will have some work to do. If you have never even SEEN
herding, I suggest you look at some YouTube videos. I typed in “Duck Herding,” and got a mixture of
demonstrations with loud announcers barking a version of English that I would need an interpreter to
understand (Brittish or Australian), and not a lot of good footage of what the dog has to do.
I found a very good video of a German Shepherd herding ducks. If your dog can display this level of
interest in the stock, and move them about the course, you can get the herding badge. Please watch
this video on You Tube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbBE4St0Hrk
If it says “video unavailable” you might need the most recent version of Adobe Flash player:
http://get.adobe.com/flashplayer/download/?installer=Flash_Player_11_for_Internet_Explorer&os=Vist
a&browser_type=MSIE&browser_dist=OEM
German Shepherd duck herding lesson: Drummer 02/27/11
I like the calm nature of the handler, and the way she uses the same instructions to her dog as my first
herding instructor. If you watch very many videos with more intense dogs, like Border Collies, you will
hear a lot of screaming “LIE DOWWWN!” This is because the Border Collies are quite intense and quite
fast, so the minute the handler issues a command to his dog, like “Walk Up,” or “Come Bye,” the dog
starts forward at his usual speed of 100mph, and the handler is screaming DOWN, so that the dog
doesn’t move too far too fast and scatter the flock.
If you notice most duck herding videos, the dogs are working WAY off the stock. A lot of dogs have too
much “power” to herd ducks. Unless you have very good control of your dog, things can go awry. One
video I watched had the dog placing himself so far away from the ducks that he was barely peeping out
at them from behind a fence on the other side of the course. Yet, that’s all it took for those ducks to
move away from the dog. Any closer, and the ducks would have panicked.
So that’s what you’ve got to do… control your dog to control the panicking ducks! The DSA herding
badge was loosely based on the herding instinct test. I found the following article helpful with regard to
the herding instinct test: http://www.glenrosefarms.com/instinct_test.htm If the link doesn’t work,
please find the article at the end of this prep sheet.
So your dog will have to learn the meanings of several important cues, or commands:
“Walk up” = move in the direction of the livestock (get a little closer)
“Get Back” or Get OUT = move farther out away from the livestock
“Go Bye” or Come Bye = do an outrun in a clockwise direction (BY the clock)
“Away to Me” or Away = do an outrun in an anti-clockwise direction (AWAY from clockwise direction)
“There!” = Stop right there! Don’t take another step!
“Lie Down” = Stop right there! Don’t take another step!
“That’ll do!” = We’re done. Please take your focus off the stock and come away with me.
Stopping your dog from eating or scattering the stock is instrumental in passing the test for the badge.
So, I would start working on a good, solid LIE DOWN at a distance with distractions before you ever set
foot in camp. Border Collies look like such amazing stock dogs, because when the handler says “Lie
down,” the Borders do what is called a “Clap” down. They instantly hit the ground as though their legs
were shot out from under them. An instant down is important.
Today, I took Caper out to the stock pen (ducks in the pen and chickens and cats all over the yard). I
started having her down with these distractions, and I’d toss a treat between her paws when she did a
nice down. I started asking for a down from farther and farther away, then off leash, and far away. I
also started getting her used to the shepherd’s crook. If you don’t have one, you should get something
that you can use. A long cane, a stick of ¾” PVC, a walking stick or just a regular branch of wood. You
don’t want the dog to be afraid of the crook, so please get your dog used to seeing this piece of
equipment beforehand. I also used my crook as like a giant target stick. When I first asked her to lie
down 8 feet from me, I touched the stick to the ground in front of her. She got the idea really fast that
she should stay out there for her down, and not creep in towards me. You could also use platforms to
teach the dog to do a down far away from you.
The stick is not to hit the dog, or to threaten the dog. On the videos, you may have seen how the
shepherd will use the stick as an extension of his or her arm, to help get the stock into the pen at the
end of the trial. It is also used to show the dog the direction you do not want him to go. If the dog is at
12 o’clock, and you’re at 6 o’clock, and the ducks are in the center of the dial, but they start moving
towards 9 o’clock, you need the dog to cut them off by doing a “Way to me” (sending him counterclockwise), by placing your stick out toward your right.
We will be teaching our dogs to move in the direction away from the stick, so you could start that ahead
of time. When I had Caper down, opposite me, I’d say, “Okay, lets go BYE!” I’d move my stick to my left
hand and hold it out, as I moved to the right, and got her up and moving to the right also, with my body
movement. This is, of course, with no stock at all, just Caper and me, moving around.
So, please report to herding class at camp with a dog who does an instant down at a distance, has a
good leave-it command, and has some idea of what a stick is for. Also, practice backing up (YOU, not the
dog), so that when I say, “Back UP! Back UP… For the love of God, BACK UP!” you won’t stand there like
a stone…
If you have an opportunity to actually get in with some livestock (YOU, not the dog) before camp, that is
even better. Stock that is used for herding consists of animals who tend to “flock” or stick together in a
bunch. Their instinct is to stay in a pack for protection (safety in numbers). You can get an idea of how
the stock moves, if you practice moving them around the yard yourself, or with a friend. You get to be
very good at this, and develop a sense for what the dog is having to figure out. While I was trying to
decide whether I wanted to get a Border Collie, an English Shepherd, or an Aussie, 25 years ago, I
decided to just get some livestock (ducks). Over time, I became pretty good at herding them myself! I
almost didn’t need to get a stock dog!
Introduction to Herding Instinct Tests and
Guidelines For Herding Instinct Tests Conducted
at Glenrose Farms
Purpose and Introduction
The purpose of a herding instinct test may seem obvious, but a few key points should be addressed.
goal of an instinct test is to create a positive setting in which the dog is allowed to succeed at attemp
to herd livestock.
Dogs need to be provided with a constructive situation where the goal is obvious to the dog and ea
attainable so that they can find and develop their herding abilities. Some dogs need to dig deep to
these abilities and instincts and this often requires near optimal circumstances for them to do this.
Sheep are the most typically used type of livestock for beginning herding instinct testing and subsequ
training. Only livestock that are tame, healthy, tractable, willing to stay grouped with tester,
accustomed to being herded by breeds of dog similar to your own should be used for an instinct test.
Instinct tests should only be provided by experienced herding trainers who, preferably, have experie
in working with your dog's breed. Some instinct tests are done as public or group activities and others
done as private one-on-one appointments with a trainer, often interspersed with their regular lesso
The text below applies to both sorts of instinct tests.
Most instinct tests, especially public sessions held at dog shows or other events, typically consist of
one work session on livestock, sometimes called an "exposure" to the stock, by the dog. Here at Glen
Farms, our instinct tests usually consist of two works, which is the same structure as our lessons. We
that dogs usually think quite a lot of about their first attempt while resting and generally come into t
second session with a MUCH better idea of what to do and how to do it. As such, we usually see a ma
improvement in the second session.
Whether one session on stock or two, most instinct test sessions and early herding lesson sessions d
usually last very long, assuming the dog is actively trying to herd. It is important to keep sessions t
optimum length to ensure that it is ended on a positive note. Sessions that are too long often result in
dog regressing or ceasing herding altogether.
Dogs fatigue quickly when first learning to herd livestock, no matter how fit and athletic they may
Tapping into their herding ability seems to be very mentally taxing for most dogs. Add this on top of
physical demands of the activity of herding and the result is usually a session far shorter than their u
ability to concentrate in other activities. Think of it as walking, chewing gum, patting your head, rub
your tummy, and talking on the phone while deciding on redecorating your home all at one time.
Dogs that are allowed to work too long may lose interest, start to nip at the stock, or other
attempt/exhibit poor herding traits as they fatigue. Thus, I feel that it is very important to monitor
length of time that the dog is allowed to work in all cases but in particular for herding instinct tests.
this by monitoring both the time the dog is working and, most importantly, the quality of the dog's wo
I have found that most dogs only last for about 6-8 minutes of optimal herding time (or less if the do
being very vigorous), especially if the dog immediately starts trying to herd as soon as it is released
fact, 4-6 minutes is often the optimal time I usually see for dogs that show a great deal of enthusi
when first released on stock. Dogs that are timid or show low interest may be in the ring for 10
minutes while the trainer and owner try to spark some instinct and drive, but, if the dog does go to w
the actual work portion is usually only about 6 minutes before they start to fatigue.
While this may seem to be a very short period of time but the dog is calling the shots here, so to sp
As stated above, it is very counterproductive to push the burgeoning herding prospect into lon
sessions. 'Quality over quantity' is always an important thing to keep in mind throughout the d
herding career, and that begins from the very beginning of the dog's career. Also, most dogs qu
increase the time that they are able to keep herding well.
What To Do and Not Do:
Do’s
• Do keep your dog on leash until
instructed to release your dog.
• Do keep your dog quiet for the neighbors’
and other participants’ sake. Barking and
whining dogs can be distracting for the dog
that is currently in the ring.
• Do praise your dog for looking eagerly at
the sheep.
• Do keep your dog 6-10' away from the
test arena fence and from any sheep being
held nearby for future tests or resting from
Don’ts
• Don’t discipline your dog for barking or
lunging at the sheep ringside. Rather,
simply remove him from sight of the shee
• Don’t practice obedience training, play
fetch, or practice “attention”-type training
that focuses the dog's attention and ener
away from sheep while waiting for your
turn.
• Don’t allow your dog to harass sheep
through the fence.
previous tests.
• Do keep your dog away from other
excited dogs to avoid potential injury from
clashes with other excited dogs.
• Do keep your dog from getting too
excited and tired ringside before his turn if
he is being very exuberant while watching
other dogs.
• Do use a collar that will allow you
sufficient control over your dog while
waiting your turn but that isn't going to
restrict their interest in other activities.
• Do bring a flat buckle collar and 6' leash
that you don't mind getting dirty for the
actual test.
• Don’t allow sheep to harass your dog
through the fence.
• Don’t allow your dog to get away from
you or be too near the fence and distract
another dog being tested.
• Don't expect your dog to obey you with
his/her usual good manners, obedience,
and attention but you must still maintain
basic control and respect from your dog.
FAQs:
1. How can I find out if my dog has any herding instinct? By taking your dog to a qualified her
instructor who is experienced in working with novice dogs for an instinct test. It is best if the instruct
familiar
with
your
dog’s
br
2. How old should my dog be before it's first exposure to livestock? I feel very strongly that yo
dogs should not be tested before 6 months of age. Some trainers do not share this opinion, but many
Puppies under 6 months old are often very emotionally vulnerable as well as physically immature and
such, are quite clumsy and ready for the rigors of herding.
Any mistake, such as a sheep threatening the puppy, or the puppy accidentally getting squeezed betw
the sheep and the fence, no matter how careful the trainer tries to be, can scar a puppy for life and
may never know how good that dog would have been because the trauma is often not fully reversi
Even ducks can try to attack a young puppy!!!
3. Can my young dog be allowed around livestock before it is instinct tested? The general ru
thumb is that a puppy can be allowed to be around stock under supervision such as at chore/feeding
(but not IN with stock) until the puppy begins to get interested in the stock, especially in the movem
of the stock. At that point, most trainers recommend that the puppy no longer be allowed to be lo
around stock again until after the pup's training has been started.
This is because it is very important that a herding prospect must NOT allowed to work on their own (e
if only through the fence). A pup that is interested in the moving animals and is allowed to be aro
them (such as at chore time) may start working on it's own (even herding through the fence can sa
the herding drive in their mind), or slip into the pen when the owner isn't looking. Disaster may en
including the stock attempting to injure the small pup or the pup learning very bad habits that can ta
lifetime to fix.
Many dogs who learn that they can work on their own, where they satisfy their herding drive
themselves, will be very difficult to train because they know that they don't have to work with t
handlers to satisfy that herding drive. This is a VERY difficult hurdle to overcome and is almost alw
completely avoidable.
It is also very important that a pup is NOT scolded for harrassing the stock through the fence du
chore time. This is because the pup won't understand the difference between herding through the fe
and herding in the arena when it comes time for the pup's first instinct test and will only know that
been scolded for herding. Thus it is best to completely remove the pup from stock once the pup start
show
interest
in
th
4. I just got my dog as an young adult or adult - how long should I wait till I take it to
herding instinct tested? I recommend that new dogs should be in their new home for at least 6 we
before they are taken for their first herding instinct test. That is not to say that they can't go and w
herding before that, however. The socialization maybe very beneficial if a safe venue is availa
However, if after 6 weeks, the dog isn't yet listening to you or if new behavioural issues have come
you may decide to wait longer before testing your dog.
5. Does it make any
mistreatment should not
any issues the dog has,
activity like a herding or
dogs present.
difference if my dog is a rescue? Rescue dogs that have a histor
be rushed into any activity quickly. I feel that it is very important to work
or to at least make good progress on them, prior to participating in a pu
agility class, which can be very stressful due to the new location and the o
6. What breeds of dog can be herding instinct tested? I feel that this is more limited by
individual dog, and the trainers and livestock available in your area than the actual breed of dog. I
willing to test most breeds and many mixed breed dogs. I have worked Dobermans, Afghans, Poodles
several other individuals of "odd" breeds, or dogs you don't associate with herding, with good succes
many cases. Conversely, I have tested other individuals in breeds in the AKC Herding Groupthat sho
no interest in livestock at all.
7. What does my dog need to know before going to instinct test? At a minimum, he should k
his name and hopefully to come when called. Everything else can be taught through herding. Howe
young
dogs
may
be
instinct
tested
without
knowing
this
m
8. Why shouldn’t I correct my dog for being excited while watching other dogs herd? Until
dog has been allowed to herd and has herded successfully a few times, he won’t understand that h
being corrected for being excited OUTSIDE of the ring. He will only know that he is being corrected
being excited about livestock. Period. Later encouragement to herd INSIDE of the ring is usually
enough to overcome the earlier correction for enthusiasm outside of the ring.
Once you show your disapproval outside the arena toward his interest in herding and livestock, he
decide that you never, ever, want him to herd, under any circumstances. Once he has actually herd
few times and has decided that herding is permitted and a lot of fun, then you can provide reason
correction
to
him
outside
the
ring
for
unruly
behav
9. What do I do if my dog is unruly or noisy while waiting for his turn? Take him out of sigh
the “action” and let him calm down. The goal is to get the dog interested in stock before his turn an
your dog is that enthusiastic, your work is done and you should take your dog away to rest and awai
turn. If you are experiencing difficulties with removing your dog from the test area, please see one of
test helpers for assistance, if available. Other spectators and or participants, if they feel qualified,
also
help
10. What do I do if my dog is wearing himself out “spectating”? Take him out of sight of
“action” and let him calm down. If you are experiencing difficulties with this, please see one of the
helpers
for
assistan
11. Why does the instructor usually have a dog dragging its lead while being tested? This h
us catch the dog more easily at the end of the session in order to end on a good note. It also allows
tester to catch the dog midsession to set up again, if needed. Even the most obedient dog can be diff
to catch during or after a fun session of herding and we don’t want to end a fun session on a bad not
having to scold it for not coming when called. Thus the owner is told to “catch your dog”, NOT “call y
dog.”
12. Can my dog be tested off leash? If the dog is reticent to work with a dragging lead, the lead
be removed. It may also be removed for other reasons at the instructor’s discretion. Otherwise, lea
the leash on is a protective measure to ensure that the session is concluded on a positive note whe
comes time to collect the dog at the end of the session.
13. What kind of livestock are best for instinct testing? I recommend calm, tame sheep that w
try to scare a small dog, nor that will try take off running in terror, which may risk triggering aggres
in large dogs. Whitefaced breeds of sheep are usually the most suitable, though some hair sheep bre
are also very good for novice dogs. Blackface sheep are often too aggressive for working with no
dogs. Cattle, most types of goats, and most rams (male sheep) are usually too aggressive to use
novice dogs, as well. If the only livestock available in your area are aggressive types of livestock,
you might consider that testing your timid, first time dog on them might not be the best idea.
14. Why does the instinct tester want the dog on a buckle collar and with a 6' leash that can
dragged? This is primarily because almost any other collar besides a buckle collar (or a snap-lock co
though I don't recommend these because they can come undone at inopportune times) may give
unintended correction to the dog when stepped on when the leash is being dragged during the ins
test.
The purpose for the 6' leash is to allow for a smooth transition onto the stock and to allow recap
and/or further guidance of the dog as needed during the session and at the end of the session. A han
should never try to recall their dog (use a "Come" or "Here" command) at the end of a herding ses
because the dog will probably not obey out of excitement. Failure to obey such an important comm
should then be disciplined, which then means that an otherwise positive herding session ends on a
bad note. This is obviously not what we want.
It is much simpler to just step on the lead that is trailing behind the dog while it is still eagerly follow
it's sheep! However, if a dog is troubled by the dragging lead, it can usually be removed. Collecting
dog at the end of the session may be a little more difficult but can usually be managed in a pos
manner without too much difficulty.
The Usual Procedure for Instinct Testing:
1. When it is your turn, enter with the dog on leash and tell the tester the name of your dog, its age,
anything unusual about its history. This history information could include if your dog is a rescue,
prior livestock experience (intended or otherwise, including any accidental herding, discipline for herd
etc.), anything the dog might be afraid of (especially sticks, whips, strangers, and dragging leashes),
2. Do
not
drop
or
remove
the
leash
until
clearly
told
to
do
so
by
the
instruc
3. The instructor will then probably tell you to move toward the sheep along the fenceline to help
them
out
in
the
open
to
make
a
good
start
for
the
sess
4. In most cases, when the sheep are in a good position, the instructor will tell you to “Drop the lead
come with me” or "Drop the lead and go to the fence". Excited or exuberant dogs may cause
instructor to ask the owner to remain by the fence until the dog has calmed down a bit as it is easie
work such an enthusiastic dog without having to worry about where the novice owner might
5. When dropping the lead, try to drape it over the dog’s back to reduce chances of the dog stepping
the
le
6. While the dog is being tested and if the owner is walking with the instructor, the owner is ONLY to
positive things to the dog. Allow the instructor to make the necessary corrections that the dog
require.
Corrections by the owner at this formative time can be devastating to a developing herding dog, wh
similar correction from a comparative stranger often does not create such an impact. Also, the instru
knows better what to correct and how best to deliver the correction, thus will do so more accura
7. While the dog is being tested and the owner is walking with the instructor, the owner needs to tr
stay with the instructor at all times. The dog wants to bring the sheep to its owner, not some strange
the ring, but the owner is usually a novice and doesn't know what to do with the flock their dog has
delivered to them. As such, the instructor and owner will be at crossed purposes if they are on oppo
sides
of
the
flock
of
sheep
during
the
dog’s
t
8. Do not pet the dog excessively, if at all, if it comes back to the owner for reassurance. Her
requires the dog to be with the sheep, usually across the flock from the owner, and we don’t wan
foster a dependence of staying with the owner from the start.
However, some dogs do require reassurance in order to stay out with the stock. In these situations,
tester may tell the owner to go out and give the dog well-timed, brief, but enthusiastic, praise and
immediately send them back to work. I often refer to this as "fluffing the dog up", meaning that
handler gives the dog a good but quick fluffing/rubbing tactile reward along with verbal praise, follo
immediately by release and encouragement to go back to the sheep.
Wait for your instructor to determine which method is most appropriate for your dog and to provide
with
instructions
before
ac
9. At the conclusion of the test, the instructor will usually tell the owner to “catch/collect your dog”. N
the use of the words "CATCH" or "COLLECT", not "CALL" or "RECALL", when collecting the dog at the
of the test. This may include stepping on the dragging leash, getting the dog's attention, and makin
quick grab of the collar, etc. The owner should move in between the stock and the dog when attemp
to distract and collect the dog while the instructor will continue to protect the sheep with as
movement of the flock as possible while the owner attempts to catch his or her
10. The owner should get between the dog and the sheep and use the dog’s name and encouraging r
sounds (such as "Puppy, puppy!" or other informal command) but should NOT use obedience-s
commands such as “COME!” that are not likely to be obeyed in the heat of the moment.
In very difficult cases, the flock may be moved to the fenceline to reduce the area that the dog is ab
run around, or the sheep may be put into a pen and the gate closed before the dog can slip in after th
In all cases, the collection of the dog should be positive and as quick as possible to end the session
good note and not risk anything bad happening in those last moments while the dog is starting to
11. Once the dog is caught, secure the leash on the dog, praise the dog profusely, and promptly head
the exit gate with a firm hold on your dog. At this point, or soon thereafter, the instructor should
you an evaluation of your dog's performance on sheep.
Laura working a novice German Shepherd during an instinct test. The long flexible cane she is holding
used to give guidance and indicate direction to an untrained dog. She will tap the ground with the can
an area behind the dog to move it forward or in front of the dog to reverse it's direction. On rare
occasions, the cane may also be used to help Laura defend her sheep against an unruly dog or get t
attention of an out of control dog.
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