Montgomery County
400 Bridge Street, Suite 2
Red Oak, IA 51566-1402
712-623-2592
FAX 712-623-2594
E-mail: drey@iastate.edu
HORTICULTURE
NEWSLETTER
DATE: February 2012
Bill Drey
Bill Drey
Montgomery County Extension Program Coordinator
USING NATIVE PLANTS IN FLOWER BEDS AND FOR
LANDSCAPING MEETING
Sponsored by the Montgomery County Master Gardeners
February 20, 2012
7:00 p.m.
Montgomery County Extension Office
Open to anyone interested
Yard and Garden
BY RICHARD JAURON
Vegetable Seeds
Selecting seeds is one of the first steps in planting a home garden – along with preparing the
seedbed and deciding when to plant. Iowa State University Extension and Outreach horticulturists share
information that will guide gardeners as they select vegetable seeds. To have additional plant and
garden questions answered, contact the ISU Hortline at 515-294-3108 or hortline@iastate.edu.
I have some leftover vegetable seeds from last year. Will they germinate and grow this spring?
Most vegetable seeds will remain viable for several years when stored in a cool, dry location. If
properly stored, cabbage, broccoli, cucumber, squash, watermelon, eggplant and radish seeds will
remain viable for five years. Snap bean, carrot, pea, pepper, tomato, cauliflower and pumpkin seeds can
be stored for three to four years. Seeds of sweet corn and onion remain viable for only one to two
years.
What are some good sources of flower and vegetable seeds?
Flower and vegetable seeds can be purchased at local garden centers. They’re also available
from mail-order companies. Mail-order sources include Stokes Seeds, Box 548, Buffalo, NY 14240
(www.stokeseeds.com); Park Seed Company, One Parkton Avenue, Greenwood, SC 29647
(www.parkseed.com); W. Atlee Burpee, 300 Park Avenue, Warminster, PA 18974 (www.burpee.com);
Johnny’s Selected Seeds, 955 Benton Avenue, Winslow, ME 04901 (www.johnnyseeds.com); Harris
Seeds, Box 24966, Rochester, NY 14624 (www.harrisseeds.com); Seed Savers Exchange, 3094 North
Winn Road, Decorah, IA 52101 (www.seedsavers.org); and many others.
What are the differences between open-pollinated and hybrid vegetable seeds?
A hybrid variety is generally the result of a controlled pollination. Hybrids are produced by crossing
two different parent varieties of the same species. Plants grown from hybrid seeds are genetically
identical and possess desirable traits, such as high yields, disease resistance or wider adaptability.
However, hybrids do not remain true in later generations. As a result, saving seeds from hybrids grown in
the vegetable garden are not worthwhile. Hybrids are oftentimes referred to as F1 or F1 hybrids (the first
filial generation of seeds resulting from the crossing of different parental types).
Open-pollinated varieties are those varieties that have become stabilized in their growth
characteristics from one generation to the next. Open pollinated seeds are produced by allowing wind or
insects to transfer pollen between different plants of the same variety. Vegetables that are capable of
cross-pollination, such as corn and vine crops, must be isolated from different varieties so they produce
seed that is “true to type.” If no cross-pollination occurs, home gardeners can save the seeds from openpollinated vegetables year after year.
Some vegetable seeds are pink or green in color. Why?
Many seed companies treat their seeds with a fungicide to prevent the seeds from rotting in cold,
wet soils. Seeds that have been treated with a fungicide are labeled as such and are often pink or green
in color. Be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling treated seeds.
Some seed companies provide their customers with seed treatment options. Gardeners can
purchase treated seeds or untreated seeds (whichever they prefer).
CHERRY TREES
AMES, Iowa -- Cherry trees can be grown in Iowa, though some are not reliably hardy in all parts
of the state. The trees produce beautiful white flowers in early spring and are a popular choice for edible
landscapes. Iowa State University Extension and Outreach horticulturists tell how to select and plant
cherry trees in Iowa. To have additional plant and garden questions answered, contact the ISU Hortline
at 515-294-3108 or hortline@iastate.edu.
Are sweet cherries hardy in Iowa?
‘Gold,’ BlackGold™ and WhiteGold™ are sweet cherry varieties (cultivars) that can be
successfully grown in the southern half of Iowa. ‘Gold’ has golden yellow skin. It is self-unfruitful. Another
late blooming sweet cherry variety must be planted for pollination and fruit set. BlackGold™ and
WhiteGold™ are self-fruitful, mid to late blooming cultivars from Cornell University in New York.
BlackGold™ has dark red skin, while WhiteGold™ is light yellow with a reddish blush. Other possibilities
for southeastern Iowa include ‘Hedelfingen’ (self-unfruitful, red fruit), ‘Kristin’ (self-unfruitful, purplish
black fruit), ‘Sam’ (self-unfruitful, dark red fruit) and ‘Van’ (self-unfruitful, reddish black fruit).
Which sour (tart) cherry varieties perform well in Iowa?
‘Northstar’ and ‘Meteor’ are two of the best performing sour cherry varieties in Iowa. Both varieties
were introduced by the University of Minnesota and possess excellent cold hardiness. ‘Northstar’ is a
dwarf tree that commonly grows 8 to 10 feet tall. Its fruit have a mahogany red skin, red flesh and are 3/4
inch in diameter. ‘Meteor’ is a semi-dwarf tree. Trees may eventually reach a height of 10 to 14 feet. The
fruit of ‘Meteor’ are slightly larger than ‘Northstar’ and have bright red skin and yellow flesh. Another
possibility is ‘Mesabi.’ ‘Mesabi’ is a cross between a sweet and tart cherry. Its red-fleshed fruit are
sweeter than ‘Northstar’ and ‘Meteor.’
What is a good planting site for cherry trees?
Cherries perform best in moist, well-drained, fertile soils. Avoid wet, poorly drained sites. Cherries
are susceptible to root rots in wet, poorly drained soils. Trees also should receive full sun. Sites must
receive at least six hours of direct sun each day. Sweet cherries bloom earlier than sour cherries. As a
result, the flowers on sweet cherries are more susceptible to damage from late spring frosts. When
selecting a planting site for sweet cherries, avoid planting in low spots where cold air settles on calm
nights. Also, avoid southern and western exposures that encourage early bloom.
Do I need to plant more than one cherry tree for pollination and fruit set?
Sour or tart cherries are self-fruitful. Self-pollination occurs when pollen is transferred from the
anther to the stigma on the same flower, from another flower on the same plant or from a flower on
another plant of the same variety. Only one sour cherry tree needs to be planted for pollination and fruit
set. Many sweet cherry varieties cannot produce fruit from their own pollen and are considered selfunfruitful. These plants require cross-pollination for fruit set. Cross-pollination is the transfer of pollen
from one plant to the flower of a different variety. When planting self-unfruitful cultivars, at least two
different sweet cherry varieties must be planted for fruit production. While most sweet cherry varieties are
self-unfruitful, BlackGold™ and WhiteGold™ are self-fruitful.
How long can I expect a cherry tree to survive?
Cherries are short-lived trees in Iowa, especially in poor sites. Sweet cherries seldom live beyond
10 to 15 years. Sour or tart cherries may survive for 20 to 25 years. When selecting a planting site, be
sure to choose a well-drained location.
Gooseberries, Currants and Jostaberries
Home gardeners who like a tart tasting berry or just want to grow a not-so-ordinary berry might
consider planting gooseberries, currants or jostaberries. ISU Extension horticulturists tell how to select
and plant these berries. To have additional plant and garden questions answered, contact the ISU
Hortline at 515-294-3108 or hortline@iastate.edu.
Is it safe to plant currants and gooseberries in home gardens in Iowa?
Early in the 1900s, white pine blister rust (Cronartium ribicola) became a serious disease problem
in the United States. White pine blister rust requires both a currant or gooseberry (Ribes species) and
white pine to complete its life cycle. The disease causes little harm to currants and gooseberries, but is
often deadly to white pines. (Black currants are very susceptible to white pine blister rust. Gooseberries
and red and white currants are somewhat resistant.) In an attempt to prevent the spread of white pine
blister rust, the federal government banned the planting and cultivation of currants and gooseberries
early in the 20th century. The federal government lifted the ban in 1966. In recent years, several white
pine blister rust resistant black currant varieties have been introduced. Rust resistant black currant
varieties include ‘Ben Sarek,’ ‘Consort,’ and ‘Crusader.’
A site near a large number of white pines would not be a good location for gooseberries and
currants. However, there shouldn’t be serious problems planting currants and gooseberries in most home
gardens in Iowa. If planting black currants, be sure to select white pine blister rust resistant varieties.
What would be a good planting site for gooseberries and currants?
Gooseberries and currants prefer cool, moist, well-drained sites. Avoid poorly drained, wet soils
and hot, dry sites. To discourage fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew, select sites with good air
movement. Gooseberries and currants tolerate partial shade. However, maximum fruit yields are
produced in areas that receive at least six hours of direct sun per day.
Is it necessary to plant more than one gooseberry variety to obtain fruit?
Most gooseberry and currant varieties are self-fruitful. It is not necessary to plant two or more
varieties for cross-pollination and fruit set.
However, a few currant varieties (such as ‘Crusader’) are self-unfruitful. When planting a selfunfruitful variety, another variety must be planted for pollination and fruit set.
What is the proper spacing when planting gooseberries and currants?
Gooseberries and currants are small to medium-size shrubs that may reach a height of 3 to 6
feet. Gooseberries and currants should be planted 4 to 5 feet apart. Rows should be spaced 6 to 8 feet
apart.
Which gooseberry and currant varieties perform well in Iowa?
Suggested gooseberry varieties for Iowa include ‘Hinnonmaki Red’ (medium-size, red fruit),
‘Invicta’ (large, pale green fruit), ‘Pixwell’ (small, red fruit), ‘Poorman’ (large, red fruit), and ‘Welcome’
(medium-size, red fruit).
Red, white and black currants can be successfully grown in Iowa. Suggested red currant varieties
include ‘Red Lake’ (large, red fruit), ‘Wilder’ (medium to large, red fruit), and ‘Perfection’ (large, red fruit).
‘White Imperial’ (medium to large, white fruit) and ‘Primus’ (medium to large, white fruit) are good
performing white varieties. Suggested black currants include ‘Ben Sarek’ (large fruit), ‘Consort’ (mediumsize fruit) and ‘Crusader’ (large fruit, self-unfruitful).
What are jostaberries?
Jostaberries are a cross between black currants and gooseberries. Plants are vigorous and may
grow to a height of 6 to 8 feet. Jostaberry fruit are similar in size to gooseberries and black in color.
Plants possess excellent cold hardiness and can be successfully grown throughout the state.
Grow Plants from Fruit
Mothers often remind children not to play with their food, but kids and houseplant enthusiasts may
find it interesting and fun to start plants from the seeds and leaves of fruit. ISU Extension horticulturists
tell how to start plants from pineapple tops and seeds from grapefruits and avocados. To have additional
plant and garden questions answered, contact the ISU Hortline at 515-294-3108 or hortline@iastate.edu.
How do you root the top of a pineapple?
Cut off the top of the pineapple about 1 inch below the cluster of leaves. Trim away the outer
portion of the pineapple top, leaving the tough, stringy core attached to the leaves. Also, remove a few of
the lowest leaves. The pineapple top then should be allowed to dry for several days. The drying period
allows the moist core tissue to dry and discourages rotting. After drying, insert the pineapple top into
perlite, vermiculite or coarse sand up to the base of its leaves. Water the rooting medium. Keep the
rooting medium moist, but not wet, during the rooting period. Finally, place the pineapple top in bright,
indirect light. Rooting should occur in six to eight weeks.
When the pineapple has developed a good root system, carefully remove it from the rooting
medium. Plant the rooted pineapple in a light, well-drained potting mix. Water well. Then place the plant
in bright, indirect light for three to four weeks.
After three to four weeks, the plant can be placed in a sunny window. Keep the potting soil moist
with regular watering. Using a soluble houseplant fertilizer, fertilize the pineapple once or twice a month
in spring and summer. Fertilization usually isn’t necessary in fall and winter. The plant can go outdoors in
late May, but must come back indoors before the first fall frost.
How do you sprout an avocado seed?
To sprout the seed, remove it from the center of the fruit and wash in water. For propagation
purposes, the broad end of the seed is regarded as the bottom. The pointed end is the top. Insert three
or four toothpicks into the sides of the seed. They should be placed about halfway up the seed. Then
suspend the seed over a glass of water. The bottom one-fourth of the seed should rest in water. The
seed should sprout within a few weeks. During this time, periodically add water to maintain the initial
water level. If the seed doesn’t sprout within two months, discard it and begin another. The roots are
usually the first to emerge from the seed. The stem appears later. Pot the seedling when the root system
has become well developed; the roots are approximately 2 to 3 inches long.
Remove the toothpicks and plant into a 6- to 8-inch-diameter pot using a commercial potting mix.
Position the seed in the center of the pot. The top of the seed should be level with the soil surface. After
potting, water thoroughly, then place the plant in a brightly lit location. A site near an east or west window
is ideal. Water the plant on a regular basis. Keep the potting soil moist, but not wet. To encourage
branching, pinch out the growing point when the avocado seedling is approximately 12 inches tall.
Fertilize once or twice a month in spring and summer with a soluble houseplant fertilizer.
Can I germinate the seeds from a grapefruit?
Seeds of grapefruit, oranges and lemons can be germinated indoors. After removing the seeds
from the fruits, plant the seeds in a pot containing potting soil. Plant the seeds about 1 inch deep. After
planting, moisten the potting soil. Keep the potting soil moist until the seeds germinate. Germination may
occur within two to three weeks or take as long as six to eight weeks. After the seedlings emerge, place
the plants in a sunny window. Grapefruit, orange and lemon trees can be grown as houseplants for a few
years. Eventually, however, they get too big for indoors and will need to be discarded. Plants grown from
seeds seldom produce fruit indoors.
Plant and Insect Diagnostic Clinic Update - January 11, 2012
By Laura Jesse, Erika Saalau and Rashelle Matthiesen, Plant & Insect Diagnostic Clinic
The following are highlights and updates about samples and questions recently received in the
Plant & Insect Diagnostic Clinic:
Insects
With the unseasonably warm weather in the past month we have seen a bit more insect activity
than normal. We have received samples of wood cockroaches and ants that probably came in from
outdoors.
We also received a sample of snowfleas. One of the handful of insects that can be active outdoors
in the winter and are even seen on snow. Snowfleas are not fleas at all, they are springtails. Tiny
insects that feed on organic matter and can jump a bit like fleas.
Diseases
We are still receiving a few conifer samples, one with cytospora canker.
In the winter we always get a few houseplant samples. Often with watering problems, it is difficult
to regulate how much water a plant needs with such varying amounts of sunlight during the day. For
more information on winter care of houseplants please see this Yard and Garden Column.
How to force spring blossoms indoors
How do you force branches of spring-flowering trees and shrubs indoors?
Forcing can be done as soon as the buds start to swell. Forsythia and pussywillow can be forced as early
as February. It's best to wait until March for more difficult-to-force ornamentals, such as crabapples, magnolias
and redbuds.
Select branches containing round, plump buds (narrow, pointed buds are usually leaf buds; flower buds are
generally larger and have a more rounded shape). Make clean, slanting cuts 1 to 2 feet from the tips of branches
with a sharp hand shears. Selectively remove branches that won't destroy the natural shape of the plant. If pruning
fruit trees in late winter, gather some of the pruned material for forcing indoors. If possible, collect the branches
when temperatures are above 32 degrees Fahrenheit. If the plant material is frozen when collected, submerge the
branches in a tub or pail of water for a few hours.
Later, set the branches in a tall container of water and place in a dimly lighted, cool (60 to 65 F) location.
Spray or mist the branches two or three times a day to prevent the buds from drying out. Also change the water in
the container daily during the forcing period. Daily changes of water should inhibit the growth of bacteria and fungi
which could interfere with the absorption of water by the branches. When the flower buds begin to open, move the
branches into a bright room. Keep the flowering branches out of direct sunlight and in a cool location to prolong the
bloom period.
The time period required to force branches into bloom depends upon the plant species and collection date.
Forsythia and pussywillow generally take only one to three weeks to force. Magnolia branches may take three to
five weeks. The closer it is to the plant’s normal outdoor flowering period, the less time it will take to force the cut
branches indoors.
Flowering Houseplants for Winter
Flowering houseplants are a welcome sight during the long, gray days of winter. Cinerarias, cyclamens,
primroses, and azaleas are flowering plants often sold at floral shops and other retailers in mid-winter to early
spring. To maximize the duration of bloom in the home, select plants with just a few open flowers and provide
good care.
Cineraria
The cineraria (Pericallis x hybrida) produces clusters of 1- to 3-inch-diameter, daisy-like flowers. They are
available in a wide range of colors, including pink, red, lavender, purple, and blue. Many flowers have white
"eyes".
Cinerarias should be placed in bright, indirect light with a temperature near 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep
the potting soil evenly moist, but not saturated. If the potting soil becomes dry, the plant will wilt rapidly and may
die if not promptly watered.
Cinerarias should remain attractive for 2 to 4 weeks if given good care. After the flowers dry and shrivel,
discard the plants.
Cyclamen
The cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) has dark green, heart-shaped leaves with silver markings. The
flowers, produced on long stems held above the foliage, point downward and somewhat resemble badminton
shuttlecocks or "birdies." Flowers are available in shades of white, pink, and red.
Place the cyclamen in a brightly lit location. Temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit are
ideal. Keep the soil moist, but avoid getting water in the crown of the plant as it may promote rotting. Fertilize the
plant with a dilute fertilizer solution every 2 weeks while in bloom. If given good care, plants will bloom for several
weeks. The cyclamen is normally discarded after flowering.
Primrose
Primroses (Primula species) produce attractive, 1- to 1½-inch-diameter flowers above a rosette of
leaves. Flowers may be white, yellow, orange, pink, red, purple, or blue. Many flowers have contrasting centers or
"eyes."
In the home, place plants in a cool (55 to 60 degree Fahrenheit), brightly lit location. Keep the potting soil
evenly moist. Primroses decline rapidly if the potting soil dries out completely or remains constantly wet. With a
proper environment, primroses often bloom for several weeks. Discard the plants when they are done blooming.
Azalea
Place azaleas (Rhododendron species) in brightly lit, cool locations in the home. An ideal site is one near
a window that receives bright light (but no direct sunlight) and temperatures of 60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Proper watering is an important aspect of caring for an azalea. Water needs can be determined with the
finger test. Check the potting soil daily with your finger. When the soil surface becomes dry to the touch, water the
plant until water begins to flow out the bottom of the pot. Discard the excess water. When placed in a favorable
location and given good care, azaleas may bloom for three to four weeks.
Azaleas sold by florists are not winter hardy outdoors in Iowa and are normally discarded after
flowering. However, the azalea can be kept as a houseplant. After the plant has flowered, place the azalea in a
sunny east or west window. Continue proper watering practices. When the azalea begins to grow, fertilize monthly
with an acid-type fertilizer.
The azalea should be moved outdoors in late May. Select a site in partial sun. A site that receives morning
sun and afternoon shade is generally a good site. Don’t remove the plant from the pot, simply dig a hole and set
the pot in the ground up to its rim. Be sure to water the plant during dry weather. Fertilization should be
discontinued in mid-summer.
Cool temperatures are required for flower initiation. Keep the azalea outdoors until early fall. Bring the
plant indoors right before the first hard frost. Indoors, place the azalea in a well-lit, cool location. Keep the soil
evenly moist. If the plant receives the proper care, the azalea should bloom sometime in winter.
African Violets
By RICHARD JAURON
While African violets are relatively easy to grow, they do require consistent care and attention to
light, temperature, watering and fertilization. Find out more from ISU Extension horticulturists. To have
additional plant and garden questions answered, contact the ISU Hortline at 515-294-3108 or
hortline@iastate.edu.
What would be a good location for African violets in the home?
Place African violets in a location that receives bright, indirect light. A site near an east or north
window is often a good location (do not place African violets in direct sun). If a suitable window isn’t
available, place African violets under a fluorescent light fixture containing two 40-watt fluorescent tubes.
Suspend the fixture eight to 12 inches above the plants and leave the lights on for 12 to 16 hours per
day. The ideal temperature range for African violets is 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. In winter, keep
African violets away from cold drafts and heat sources.
How much light does an African violet need?
African violets need the proper amount of light to grow and bloom well. Plants that receive
insufficient levels of light have thin, blue-green leaves with long petioles. They also don’t bloom well.
Plants that receive too much light are stunted and produce small, crinkled, yellow leaves borne on short
petioles. Generally, sites near north or east windows are best for African violets. However, if these sites
are not available, African violets can be successfully grown under fluorescent lights. A fluorescent light
fixture suspended eight to 12 inches above the plants and left on for 12 to 16 hours per day should
provide sufficient light for African violets.
My African violets aren’t blooming well. Why?
The African violets may not be receiving adequate light. The proper amount of light is essential for
good bloom - whether that is natural light or under flourescent lights as described above.
Excessive fertilization could also be responsible for the poor bloom. African violets need to be
fertilized to promote bloom. However, excessive fertilization leads to vigorous vegetative growth and poor
flowering. Using a complete, water soluble fertilizer, apply a dilute fertilizer solution once every two
weeks in spring, summer and fall. Fertilization usually isn’t necessary during the winter months.
The lower leaves on my African violet have turned yellow and become droopy. What could be
wrong?
The symptoms suggest the African violet may have root rot. Root rot symptoms initially develop on
the lower leaves. The lower leaves turn yellow and droop. As the root rot progresses, affected leaves
turn brown and become mushy. Over time, the symptoms spread upward. Plants may eventually die if
growing conditions are poor and no corrective actions are taken.
Root rots are usually caused by overwatering. African violets prefer an evenly moist soil. They
don’t like wet or dry potting soils. In wet situations, root rot fungi gradually destroy the African violet’s
roots, causing the plant to decline. Prevention is the best defense against root rot. Allow the soil surface
to dry to the touch before watering African violets. Also, select a light, well-drained potting mix when
potting or repotting African violets.
New Plant Hardiness Zone Map Has Iowa in Zone 5
AMES, Iowa — Gardeners and researchers have a new, updated plant hardiness zone map to
consider as they make plant selection decisions this year. The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA)
released the new version of the map this week — the first update since 1990 — with much of Iowa now
considered Zone 5.
Plant hardiness zone designations represent the average annual minimum temperatures at a
given location. The new version has 13 zones, two more than the previous map, which were determined
by data measured at weather stations during the 30-year period 1976-2005. Each zone is a 10-degree
Fahrenheit band, further divided into A and B 5-degree Fahrenheit zones. Zone 5 has a -10 to -20
degree annual minimum average. Compared to the 1990 version, zone boundaries in the new edition of
the map have shifted in many areas.
“The zones have shifted northward pretty much across the map,” said Jennifer Bousselot, Iowa
State University (ISU) Extension horticulturist and Iowa Master Gardener coordinator. “Locations on the
new map are generally five degrees Fahrenheit warmer than the previous map. This half-zone difference
doesn’t change much for Iowa gardeners.”
According the USDA, some of the changes in the zones are a result of new, more sophisticated
methods for mapping zones between weather stations. These include algorithms that considered for the
first time such factors as changes in elevation, nearness to large bodies of water, and position on the
terrain, such as valley bottoms and ridge tops. Richard Jauron, ISU Extension horticulturist for Hortline,
encourages gardeners to consider the zone map as a guide and remember to factor in location details
when making plant selections.
“It isn’t as simple as concluding that the same plants can be grown in Mason City and Ames just
because both cities are located in Zone 5a,” Jauron said. “Mason City is often several degrees colder
than Ames in winter. For example, Mason City has had below zero temperatures several times this
winter, including -17 degrees Fahrenheit on Jan. 2; while the minimum temperature in Ames this winter
has been -4 degrees.” Jauron said growers also need to consider the differences between rural and
urban areas, low-lying areas near streams and hilltops, and other local factors that affect temperatures
when making their plant selections.
Jauron said he would not encourage gardeners living north of Highway 20 to immediately plant
large numbers of Zone 5 plants. “Over the next few years, gardeners in the northern one-third of the
state may experiment with a few plants labeled as hardy in Zone 5a, but the most reliable choices for that
part of the state are still Zone 4 plants,” he said.
The USDA map is addressing some of the issues pointed out by Jauron, by providing a
Geographic Information System (GIS)-based interactive format of the map. Specifically designed to be
Internet-friendly, the map website incorporates a "find your zone by ZIP code" function. The intent is to
increase accuracy and detail. The new map — jointly developed by USDA's Agricultural Research
Service (ARS) and Oregon State University's (OSU) PRISM Climate Group — is available online at
www.planthardiness.ars.usda.gov. ARS is the chief intramural scientific research agency of USDA.
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