LIVING WITH A PARROT,
AND WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW
With their beauty, intelligence and character, it’s not surprising that parrots are becoming
increasingly popular as pets.
This booklet is intended to be of assistance to you and your bird. It should explain how to
handle their diets, living quarters, behaviors (good and bad), miscellaneous facts, and
dangers that they may encounter over their lifetime. It also contains a list of Avian
Veterinarians that practice within Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia and West Virginia.
We know that this booklet may not cover everything, so we are available to help you
whenever you might need our assistance with questions or concerns. Please email us at
cbradley@thefeatheredcoop.com or call us at 301-695-6155 and we will make every
attempt to help you.
Thank you for your recent purchase and we sincerely hope that you have a lifetime of
enjoyment and pleasure, as we have been so fortunate enough to experience with our pets.
SOME SAY THEY DON'T BELIEVE
THAT ANGELS CAN BE SEEN OR HEARD.
WHAT A SHAME SUCH BLINDNESS
WHAT A PITY SUCH DEAFNESS
WHEN THE SONG OF SONGS ABOUNDS...
AND HEAVEN'S FLYERS ARE ALL AROUND...
ONLY THINLY DISGUISED... AS BIRDS.
R.R. Holster / PetStation
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Purchasing and Caring For Pet Birds ........................................................................................................ 4
Pre-Purchase Information ................................................................................................................. 4
Nutrition ............................................................................................................................................ 4
Diet ................................................................................................................................................... 4
Vitamins ............................................................................................................................................ 6
Minerals ............................................................................................................................................ 7
Liquids .............................................................................................................................................. 7
Grid ................................................................................................................................................... 7
Handling Finicky Eaters .................................................................................................................... 7
How To Broaden a Birds Diet ........................................................................................................... 8
Cage ................................................................................................................................................. 8
Location of Cage .............................................................................................................................. 9
Environment ..................................................................................................................................... 9
Temperature ................................................................................................................................... 10
Humidity.......................................................................................................................................... 10
Drafts .............................................................................................................................................. 10
Photoperiod .................................................................................................................................... 10
Droppings ....................................................................................................................................... 10
Parasites......................................................................................................................................... 10
Mentality & Emotions ...................................................................................................................... 11
Longevity ........................................................................................................................................ 11
Care ................................................................................................................................................ 11
Weight ............................................................................................................................................ 12
Feather Facts ................................................................................................................................. 12
Behavioral Problems ...................................................................................................................... 12
Determination of Sex ...................................................................................................................... 13
Handling ......................................................................................................................................... 13
Alertness is The Key To Bird Health ............................................................................................... 14
Stress In Caged Birds ..................................................................................................................... 14
Respiratory Problems With Birds .................................................................................................... 15
Taming Birds .................................................................................................................................. 15
Bird Diseases-Which are Emergencies? ........................................................................................ 16
Emergency Treatment .................................................................................................................... 16
Dangers .......................................................................................................................................... 17
Understanding Parrots .............................................................................................................................. 22
Which Bird Is For Me? ............................................................................................................................... 24
An Only Bird Is A Lonely Bird................................................................................................................... 31
A Parrots Work Is Never Done .................................................................................................................. 34
Selecting An Avian Vet.............................................................................................................................. 36
The New Bird Exam ................................................................................................................................... 38
The Annual Well Bird Exam ...................................................................................................................... 40
ABVP Certified Avian Veterinarian ........................................................................................................... 42
The Association of Avian Veterinarians (AAV) ....................................................................................... 43
Miscellaneous ............................................................................................................................................ 44
Clipping Wings, Nails & Beaks ................................................................................................................. 45
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PURCHASING AND CARING FOR PET BIRDS
By Robert L. Linville, D.V.M.
All Creatures Veterinary Hospital, CA
PRE-PURCHASE INFORMATION
Owning a bird as a pet has been popular since the Victorian era, when the parlor was not considered completely
decorated unless it had a canary in a very small brass cage residing on a table in a corner. It has been only recently,
however, that the health and management of pet birds has become a real concern of the pet bird breeder, owner and
Veterinarian. Pet birds are no longer maintained in overly small, ornate cages that do not allow for social contact.
Large bright airy cages, along with improved dietary management, have increased the life span and reproductive
efficiency of most of the pet bird species.
Why do you want to own a bird? There is no correct answer to this question, but it is one you should fully examine
before you purchase a bird. Often a pet bird is the answer for apartment dwellers, people desiring animal
companionship with minimal time or money investment, or individuals wanting an affectionate, intelligent pet.
However, a bird should never be purchased on impulse. You should approach the task of purchasing a bird already
aware of the characteristics of the species of bird you are interested in, the average price of that type of bird in your
region and with some knowledge of how to evaluate the health and breed characteristics of the bird you are
considering. This will require a bit of research and asking around before you are ready to buy, but the investment of
your time will save you much grief at a later date. The beautiful macaws and cockatoos are not for the neophyte!
Most first-time bird owners are happier with finches, canaries, budgerigars ("parakeets") or cockatiels.
Birds can be purchased from a variety of sources, such as pet shops, breeders, private dealers, or individuals. If you
are buying a bird for the first time it is almost essential that you purchase your bird from someone who is in the bird
breeding and/or selling business. These individuals usually have a reputation to protect; ask around and find out who
in your area is known to deal honestly and fairly with buyers. Many stores today, especially those specializing in
birds, have been operated by bird fanciers who have turned their hobby into a business; they usually know and care
about their birds. They will have in stock items required for basic care and maintenance of birds, such as play toys,
cages, bird feed and general health supplies. Sales personnel will generally offer you more information than you ever
thought necessary to get you started, so leave yourself plenty of time to shop!
Health should be a primary consideration when you are choosing a bird. Pay close attention to the health of all birds
you examine-- a free bird, if it is sick, is not worth the long-term monetary and emotional costs. To keep it simple, a
sick bird will look sick and a healthy bird will look healthy; bright, alert, active and in good feather. There are clues to
a bird's health beyond general impressions. A sick bird may sit with its feathers puffed up; its eyes may be dull or
even closed; the nostrils may be clogged or occluded to some degree. An additional clue, here, is to check the
feathers above the nostrils; if they appear wet or matted, then the bird has a nasal discharge. The feathers around
the bird's vent or hindquarter area may be soiled or matted, indicating diarrhea; the bird may be listless or inactive;
the seed cup may appear not to have been touched, indicating that the bird is off-feed. Also be on the lookout for
bald spots where feathers should be, swellings or sores on the feet or toes, a protruding breastbone, white crusts on
the beak or a bird that appears to be having difficulty breathing.
You must also consider the temperament of your bird when you are selecting. An intelligent bird with a good
disposition is essential for everyone's benefit, but most birds in the temporary condition of "being for sale" are quite
stressed and not at all themselves. Do not expect too much at first, but do become aware of how different birds
approach you as you make your choice. Intuition and experience are the most reliable guides you can have in this
area.
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When you finally choose your bird, consider the following before money changes hands: Will you be able to locate
the seller next week should there be a problem? Is there a health guarantee allowing for returns or exchanges within
a reasonable period of time? Can the seller verify the bird's age and birthplace? (While this may not always be
possible, most reputable sellers have this information available; if not, learn how to judge the age of the bird species
you would like to buy.) Will you receive a written bill-of-sale? The purchase of a bird should always be contingent
upon the bird being examined by a Veterinarian within a few days of purchase; you should be allowed to return the
animal for a full refund should it be found not in good health within a few days of purchase. The bill-of-sale should
include the purchase price, the guarantee and return policy, the bird's band number (if known) and a full description
of the bird (i.e. color, sex (if known), genus and species).
NUTRITION
Improper feeding is a major cause of disease and death in pet birds.
This section describes general feeding recommendations for your pet bird. Ideally you should research the species
you have chosen and learn about their specific needs. Each species has its own unique dietary and environmental
needs. By knowing their habits in the wild, where they live and what they eat in their native habitat, you can better
understand how to be more successful in keeping them healthy and happy in your home. You can obtain information
by talking with successful reputable breeders and owners, and by reading books dealing with your type of bird.
DIET
Balanced diets are only achieved by offering a variety of foods. Remember that a bird's diet in the wild is whatever is
available. Earthworms in the spring, berries in summer, buds of flowering trees in fall.
1. SEEDS- Historically the basic diet for many pet birds has been a variety of seeds. Some mixtures have been
accepted as the more essential seeds and are sold commercially as finch, canary, parakeet, and parrot seed.
This does not mean it is a natural food supply--only that if all of the different seeds in the mixture are eaten, it will
sustain life.
BASIC- Mixtures of seeds packaged commercially. Bulk birdseed from a pet shop is likely to be much fresher
and more nutritious than boxed seed sold in the supermarket. Be careful that your bird is not selecting only one
or two types of seed out of a mixture of six to ten varieties. This will produce an unbalanced diet and nutritional
deficiencies.
SUPPLEMENTAL- Other seed mixtures sold under names such as: Health Food, Treat, Conditioners, Molting
Foods, or Song Foods.
Be aware the current trend is away from using seed mixtures as the major component in most species diets.
This is based on the observation that many pet birds do not eat the entire mixture, but instead pick out only a few
varieties in the seed mix. Often the seeds they selectively eat are ones with high oil content which can be
unhealthy for the bird in the long term. Amazon parrots tend toward obesity, which is magnified by eating nuts or
oil containing seeds such as sunflower or safflower. Macaws actually require a little fat in their diet so a limited
amount of nuts or oil containing seeds is an acceptable part of their diet.
2. PELLETTED FOODS- There is a variety of pelletted foods now available for pet birds. As our knowledge of
proper pet bird nutrition improves these diets become more nutritionally sound. Some companies have diets
designed for the various species of pet birds. Use the one that is designed for the species you have. Often they
are marketed as complete diets, however as with seed mixes, they should be considered only part of a complete
diet. Dog food, cat food, monkey chow, and other pet foods ARE NOT the same as pelletted pet bird food and
are not an appropriate part of your pet bird's diet.
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3. GREENS- Greens are a valuable and rewarding addition to your bird's diet. The common table greens may be
used, or in the summer, backyard greens are available. Greens have the reputation of causing diarrhea, which is
not true, but they will affect the character of the stool. Greens are bulky foods that pass through the digestive
tract rapidly, causing a soft green stool. Greens are high in water, adding fluid to the body. More urine is
produced which adds to the fluidity of the droppings. Birds at first may overeat greens, but if fed consistently, will
only eat a small amount. Sprouted birdseed is a special treat. When feeding any type of fresh food, make sure to
thoroughly wash the food before giving it to the bird. This removes any soil bacteria or contaminants, which
could be harmful to your bird.
TABLE GREENS / BACKYARD GREENS
(Must not have been treated with insecticides, pesticides, or fertilizer)
Leaf lettuce Dandelion
Endive Chickweed
Celery (chopped or the tops) Fresh branches, etc. (Edible varieties only)
Carrot tops
Spinach (cooked)
Kale
Mustard greens
It is important that all varieties of bird receive from 15-25 percent of their diets in the form of vegetables, fruits,
and "treats." The smaller seedeaters (finches, canaries, etc.) should be given the lesser amount. The Conures,
Amazons, and Cockatoos, somewhere in between, and the fruit-eaters (Lories, Toucans, and many Macaws) the
greater amount.
Vegetables are a great source of protein and carbohydrate, which tend to offset the higher fat content of some of
the "favorite" seeds of many birds, such as sunflower and safflower seeds. Try a wide variety of vegetables like
green and other beans, fresh or cooked corn, peas, broccoli, peppers, squash, cauliflower, potato, carrots,
cooked spinach, beets, yams, sweet potatoes, etc. Avoid iceberg lettuce, particularly in young birds. It has little
or no nutritive value. Also some vegetables such as tomatoes tend to be acidic and should be avoided.
Fruits are an excellent source of carbohydrate and a moderate source of protein. They supply the bird with a
readily digestible energy source, and are a valuable source of many vitamins and minerals. Fruits such as
berries, grapes, papaya, and sometimes citrus fruits and apples tend to give birds what we call "functional"
diarrhea. These fruits and berries are said to have a "cleansing" effect on their digestive tracts, but anything can
be overdone. Offer these items once or twice weekly. Some fruits such as pineapple and most citrus fruits tend
to be acidic, and also should only be fed in limited quantities.
Peaches, pears, and bananas have better nutritive value for birds and are less apt to cause diarrhea.
Yogurt, the all-natural type with no additives, is an excellent source of protein and calcium.
Treats can be an excellent source of nutrition for birds. In addition, the pleasure of both bird and owner can be
greatly enhanced. Do not hesitate to offer a variety of snacks, including cooked egg, toast or bread with peanut
butter, graham crackers, rolls, low salt cheese, noodles, cookies, etc.
Four general types of food to avoid are the following:
1. Foods that contain large amounts of salt; such as saltines, potato chips, popcorn, etc.
2. Foods that contain large amounts of sugar; such as candies, syrup, etc.
3. Foods that contain large amounts of fat or oil; such as meat trimmings, avocado, etc.
4. Any food containing a stimulant or depressant; like caffeinated sodas, alcohol, etc.
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Furthermore, you should exercise common sense in choosing your pet's food. As a general practice do not feed
parts of food items that are not commonly eaten by people. For example do not feed the pits of fruit such as
peaches, plums, or cherries as these contain cyanide and therefore are toxic. Another example is the tops of
carrots; these contain very large amounts of nitrates, which also is toxic if enough of them are consumed. Also,
when feeding fresh foods do not leave them in the cage so long that they spoil or grow large numbers of
bacteria. If you think about whether the food would be safe for you to eat after being left out for a period of time
and apply that same reasoning to your pet bird's food, you usually will be safe. Do not put a food that will spoil in
the cage and leave it there all day long, your bird will get sick just like you would if you left dinner on the table all
night and ate the food off the plate for lunch the next day.
4. SOFT FOOD DIET-Some bird fanciers prefer to feed an all-soft food diet, rather than use seed as part of the
diet. Many diets have been developed which work well. One that will supply adequate nutrition is the following:
Mix equal portions of the following four groups:
1. Cooked whole grain rice
2. Cooked legumes (beans, peas, sprouts, etc.)
3. Cooked mixed vegetables
4. Dry dog or cat food
You can mix the ingredients together and cook them like a stew, and then save small daily portions in plastic
bags in the freezer. These bags can be thawed as needed either in a microwave or by placing in hot water
(make sure it is not too hot.) The mixture can be fed to the bird twice daily. No soft food should be left in the food
dishes or cage for over 12 hours.
You can add sprouted seeds to this, and may add small amounts of low salt cheese once a week.
5. FOOD SELECTION-These facts must be considered when feeding. Food is selected by:
A. HABIT- Instilled when the mother is feeding the young in the nest box.
B. APPEARANCE- more than taste and smell. A bird is apt to be suspicious of strange foods or other objects
for a period of time or may never accept anything new placed in his cage.
VITAMINS
1. Your bird requires adequate sources of the fat-soluble vitamins A and D3.
2. Vitamin B Complex-- It is becoming more obvious that vitamin B complex should be supplemented in the diet.
3. Birds being treated with antibiotics also require a source of lactobacillus to replace the normal intestinal bacteria.
This can be supplied by yogurt.
4. If your bird is receiving a properly balanced pelletted diet, you do not need to add extra vitamins to its food or
water. Over supplementation with vitamins can be as dangerous, or worse than no supplementation at all.
5. If you do need to supplement with vitamins, use a type that goes on the food, not the water. Many vitamin
supplements cause very high levels of bacteria to grow when the supplement is placed in the water. Good on the
food supplements are Nekton and Nekton-S.
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MINERALS
Minerals are an essential part of the daily diet. The best sources are: Cuttlebone, Mineral Blocks, Milk, Oyster Shells,
Egg Shells, or a supplement specific for birds. African Grey parrots have a higher requirement for Calcium in their
diet, which must be present in either the pelleted food, high calcium vegetables, or supplements.
Budgerigars ("parakeets") require Iodine supplementation to their diet to prevent thyroid dysplasia. One drop of
Iodine solution weekly in the drinking water will satisfy this requirement.
LIQUIDS
Besides fresh water, other liquids may be offered. Some birds have a real fondness for nectars. Many birds like
orange juice, which may be offered in limited amounts. Milk is a very excellent food and can be added to drinking
water. Remember, it must be changed the same day. We recommend using bottled water rather than tap water as
the household plumbing can harbor bacteria that are of little concern to people, but quite dangerous to pet birds.
GRIT
Birds that hull their seeds do not require grit. Although they seem to enjoy picking at it, overeating grit can irritate and
even obstruct the gastrointestinal tract. If grit is used, it should be provided in very small amounts. A few grains of grit
a week are more than enough. Do not use sand paper or gravel paper on the bottom of your bird's cage, or on the
perches. We recommend a firm no-grit policy (exception is passerine birds such as finches and canaries).
HANDLING FINICKY EATERS
Birds are inherently finicky. If they get "hooked" on sunflower seeds, and will not touch anything else, it can in time
result in a number of vitamin and mineral deficiencies as well as fatty degeneration of the liver, thyroid problems, fatty
tumors and other complications.
We believe in offering birds fresh food twice daily, in an amount that they will consume in about six hours. Feeding in
this manner makes sure that the bird will be hungry when fed, and may be willing to try something new when offered.
Always have the favorite food available at feeding time, however. One can sprinkle the favorite seed over a variety of
vegetables (succotash) or fruit such (unsweetened fruit cocktail) as a good way to start. Alternate this type of mixture
with the regular feed choice daily. Determine the bird's preferences of vegetables or fruits, and use your own good
judgment. Don't be afraid to try leftovers or table scraps-- including even bits of lean meat-- but do not leave it in the
feed dish long enough to spoil.
Do not give up too soon!! It often takes weeks or sometimes even months for the bird to try something new.
In addition, be sure to provide a balanced vitamin-mineral, and amino acid supplement over the vegetable, fruit or
seed. You can use commercial preparations such as Nekton, Chirp, Petamine, or Superpreen.
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HOW TO BROADEN A BIRDS DIET
Many birds have developed poor eating habits, and as a result have or are bordering on malnutrition. It may be
difficult to overcome these bad habits, but persistence usually pays off. Do not try to starve your bird into eating new
food. A small bird will die in 48 hours if it does not eat.
1. Begin with sweetening the water, and then after he has developed a "sweet tooth" add other nutrients such as
juices, milk, and honey.
2. Introduce only small amounts of new food.
3. Try feeding hot foods. Try hot nuts, hot cereals, hot cheese and hot soup.
4. Mix new foods with the regular basic seed.
5. Place new foods below a mirror or adjacent to a favorite toy.
6. Try feeding outside the cage.
7. Change bird from ad-lib feeding to three 15-minute feeding periods.
8. Hand or spoon-feed.
Be aware that variety in food in addition to being more nutritionally sound, also helps as it is a major source of mental
stimulation for pet birds.
CAGE
A. Cages should be as long as or longer than they are tall. Birds tend to fly lengthwise, not up and down, and we
can make them feel more comfortable with a long cage. Tall cages are fine for canaries, but certainly do not
meet the needs of budgerigars ("parakeets"), cockatiels, or other hook bill birds.
B. Perches in cages are best made of natural material. The ideal perch would be a branch from a citrus or fruit tree,
oak, manzanita, or eucalyptus tree with the bark still intact. One need not worry about mites if the perch is first
sprayed with any common mite spray available at your local pet shop. They are easily replaced, and are
excellent nutrition and excellent exercise. Never use sandpaper covered perches, as this will irritate the feet. Try
to have perches of several different diameters to avoid pressure sores from continual pressure in one part of the
foot.
C. The bottom of the cage should be covered with wax paper or newspaper or an appropriate litter material
designed for birds. This makes an excellent bottom cover, as it does not spread moisture all over the cage from
a single accident or dropping. Furthermore, the paper can be lifted out daily, allowing one to estimate the
number of droppings per day and thus monitor the bird's appetite. Do not use sandpaper on the cage floor.
D. No gravel or mineral grit should be used in any cage used by a pet hook billed bird. Canaries, doves, and finches
may have grit if desired mixed in food at the rate of one teaspoon per pound.
E. Cuttlebone should be placed in all cages with the soft side in. This means the flaky side out where the bird can
get to it and the hard shell near the outside of the cage. The cuttlebone should be placed at head height, within
easy reach for the bird.
F. Aluminum cages are more suited to today's bird care than painted cages, and will give much longer service, well
compensating for their cost. Be careful to avoid old painted cages or imported cages that may contain lead
based paint since this is toxic to your bird. Galvanized cages may also contain lead, as do many soldered cages.
G. SEED AND WATER CUPS-- One large cup is needed for water. Usually one large cup and at least 3-4 other
small (treat) cups are needed for food. Wash the water and fresh food containers frequently.
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H. TOYS-- These depend on the type of bird. For some birds they are very important and may help prevent feather
picking. Do not use small weighted toys for large birds. Avoid toys that are potentially hazardous. Toes or beaks
may become caught in small holes such as those present on jingle bells.
I.
CAGE COVERS-- Covers have two purposes.
1. They darken the cage in order for the bird to rest.
2. They help to keep the cage warm if the temperature drops at night.
J. BIRD BATH--Some birds enjoy bathing in a dish or birdbath. Others will need to be spray-misted 2-3 times a
week. Moisture is an absolute requirement for feather care.
K. AVOID CLUTTER-Cages that are too large or have too many toys and other objects in them may be every bit as
stressful as a small barren cage. Try to attain a balance that the bird enjoys.
L. CLEANLINESS-Maintaining a clean environment in the cage is essential. When you set up the cage make sure
to keep this in mind, and make sure the cage is acceptable to you. After all you are the one who will be cleaning
it every day.
LOCATION OF CAGE
Except for the first week, when introducing your bird to a new environment, birds generally are the happiest and do
their best in areas of activity. Place the cage on the porch or in the family or living room. Direct sunlight is stimulating
and enjoyable to birds; care being taken not to overheat them on a summer day.
ENVIRONMENT
Consideration must be given to the cage, the surroundings and all activities in that area. Many birds in this area do
well if kept outdoors as on a screened porch. The change to this type of environment must be made slowly.
Remember to cover the cage if the temperature drops below 50 degrees.
A. SOCIALIZATION
1. PEOPLE - Birds learn to relate to people, and actually, when living in a cage situation, need people for
socialization. Talk to your bird, whistle to him, or sing to him. They cannot live well without you.
2. PLAYING - Playing is having fun and enjoying life. There is no rule to follow for each type of bird, but
consider the following:
Bones Paper Spoons Rope (not string)
Toys Bathing Bells (large) Cardboard strips
Mirrors Swings Cork Hanging Cob Corn
Dumbbells Balls Branches Wood
Make sure all objects are clean and do not have toxic materials on them. If obtained outside, branches
should not have any pesticide residue on them, and should be scrubbed and soaked in a solution of 1 cup of
Clorox in one gallon of water for at least 15 minutes, followed by thorough rinsing and drying before being
used for the first time. Do not use treated wood used in the building trades.
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TEMPERATURE
A healthy bird can tolerate a change of temperature of 10 to 15 degrees. Sick birds chill readily and need a room
temperature of 80 - 90 degrees.
HUMIDITY
An ideal humidity for a bird seems to be 30 - 50 %. Air conditioning does not come close to this ideal. A screened
porch is perfect in warmer climates.
DRAFTS
A healthy bird seems to tolerate drafts with no ill effects. Major temperature changes and continual drafts are not
appreciated by your bird and should be avoided if possible. Sick birds are adversely affected by drafts or frequent
changes in temperature.
PHOTOPERIOD
Birds require the same amount of light and dark as that occurring in a natural day. Being exposed to many hours of
daylight and then electric light daily for long periods of time may stress a bird to the point of causing problems with
molting. Ideally the day should shorten each week when moving from mid-summer to winter, and lengthen each week
when moving from mid-winter to summer. Cage covers assist in controlling the photoperiods.
DROPPINGS
Droppings are one of the best indicators of your bird's health and reflect the digestive and urinary systems. Observe
and count the number of droppings daily. The droppings are an instant guide to the amount eaten by the bird. If your
bird begins to eat less, the number of droppings will decrease indicating a medical problem and he should be seen by
a Veterinarian.
PARASITES
A. INTERNAL PARASITES
1. Include worms and protozoans.
2. A fecal specimen no more than 2 hrs. old for examination for large parasite eggs, and an immediately
passed fresh stool to examine for protozoans are required to do a thorough parasite examination.
3. Uncommon in caged birds.
B. EXTERNAL PARASITES
1. Cnemidocoptic mange (scaly face / scaly leg) is common on the face and legs of budgerigars ("parakeets")
and on the feet of canaries. It is confirmed by microscopic examination of a skin scraping.
2. Lice, red mites, and other forms of mites are found less frequently.
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MENTALITY AND EMOTIONS
Birds have a personality, definite likes and dislikes, feelings and a surprising amount of sensitivity and emotions.
Birds are very social in the wild. We need to create a lot of stimulation for them in our homes. A variety of toys, which
are placed in the cage a few at a time and rotated weekly should be present. A variety of food should be made
available. (However make sure there is a part of their diet that is consistent -ideally the pellet. Daily interaction
between you and your pet bird should be the norm. You can use the cleaning and feeding time to your advantage.
You will be there doing it anyhow, so you should make it a fun experience. Let the bird out while you are preparing
the food. Give it some paper to shred, talk to it, or do whatever it enjoys. Certainly the more time you spend with
them the better they feel, and the more enjoyable pet they become for you. Some species, such as finches and
canaries prefer to be kept in groups in larger cages where they may fly around and interact with other birds. These
species do not require as much stimulation or other interaction with their human caretaker as the larger species.
LONGEVITY
It is difficult to locate any statistics on the life span of pet birds. This is due in large part to the recent advances in diet,
husbandry, and Veterinary care available.
Finches 8 - 10 years
Canaries 10 - 15 years
Budgerigars ("parakeets") 10 - 15 years
Larger Psittacines 25 - 50 years or more
CARE
A. CARE OF BEAK-- Beaks grow continuously and are worn off by their normal eating habits and the interaction of
the beaks. A budgerigar ("parakeet") beak grows 3 inches per year. At times, beaks must be trimmed.
B. CARE OF NAILS-- It is important to keep the nails trimmed short. Sandpaper perches are useless for this
purpose and can cause disease of the feet.
C. CARE OF FEATHERS-- When feathers molt annually, no special care is needed. Feathers that become dirty or
oily have to be bathed. This happens from smoke, dust and greasy cooking. Ragged-looking birds are sick and
are affected with some deeper problem. Within two weeks of the loss of any feather, a few feathers should be
replacing it. If baldness begins to occur, seek Veterinary assistance. Never use any ointment or other oily or
greasy medication on your bird's feathers. This will cause it to be unable to regulate temperature properly.
D. CARE OF FEET--Foot infections occur in spite of many precautions. Be certain to keep perches clean, have at
least one soft perch, vary the size of the perches, and if you notice any weight shifting, sores, or lameness immediately seek Veterinary assistance.
E. CARE OF LEGS-- A leg band's purpose is for identification. They should be removed to prevent problems. Large
birds can now be permanently identified using microchips without risking damage to the legs. Scales on a bird's
legs and feet may thicken and form a hard - tight crust. These can be removed by applying a skin moisturizer
and then working the scales off with the fingers or lifting them off with a forceps. String or lint can wrap around
the leg or toe of a bird and cut off circulation. If you see discoloration of the leg or toes or a depression around
the bird's leg - seek Veterinary assistance.
F. CARE OF SKIN--Since the skin is protected by feathers, no special care is needed. Most important though, is
not to apply oil or grease to the skin. Any oil can cause heat retention and heat prostration.
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G. CARE OF EYES, EARS AND NOSE-- A discharge from any of these areas indicates trouble. Slight crusting or
wetness of the hairlike feathers above the nasal opening is not normal. Until the bird can be seen by a
Veterinarian, the area should be kept clean. Wipe the area with a mild antiseptic solution. Do not apply anything
oily, nor give proprietary medication before a diagnosis is made.
H. CARE OF THE UROPYGIAL, EAR AND ANAL GLANDS -- These should be checked annually by your
Veterinarian. If the bird is pecking excessively at the top of the tail near the body, the uropygial gland may have
to be carefully examined.
WEIGHT
Once a bird has become an adult, the weight should never vary. Checking the weight occasionally, especially at the
annual examination will give valuable information about your bird's health. Birds who eat excessive amounts of oil
containing seed may become obese. Sick birds may lose weight. Learn to check your bird’s pectoral muscles
frequently and be aware of any noticeable change in their size.
FEATHER FACTS
A. Feathers serve to insulate a bird. The density and strength of the feathers protect the bird both mechanically and
thermally.
B. The structural network of the feathers serve as a water repellent; not oils on the feathers.
C. The preen (uropygial) gland secretes an oil that decreases wear by lubrication of the feathers. Hence, it is
important that a bird preen itself continually at some interval during the course of the day. NOTE: Stress will alter
a bird's preening habits.
D. Annual molt is a time to replace old feathers with stronger, healthier new ones. This is a period of stress for the
bird and should be followed closely.
E. Feather maintenance is accomplished through periodic baths - either by showers, splashing or walking through
wet greens.
F. Complete feather care can only be achieved when a bird is in good mental and physical health. This includes
companionship, pleasant environment, security from stress, proper sanitation, and, of course, a well - balanced
nutritious diet.
BEHAVIORAL PROBLEMS
A. FEATHER PICKING
1. Feather picking is a disease found primarily in stressed birds. The insecurity of captivity frightens many a
bird. These animals are nervous and apprehensive. If left unrecognized, many begin to alter their preening
habits. Feather picking results when they substitute chewing for preening.
2. In order to minimize this vice, design a place for the bird's concealment such as a nesting box or coffee can.
Provide a companion, and use common sense in bird husbandry.
12
In short, reduce stress and have a healthier bird.
Do not overlook the possibility of psittacine beak and feather disease. This problem is common in Cockatoos and
African Grey parrots and your bird should be examined, and possibly specifically tested for this problem if it has
chronic feather problems.
B. SCREAMING
Birds are vocal animals. The bigger the bird, the louder the scream. The owner should realize that some
screaming by your pet is just part of owning a pet bird. Excessive screaming can be due to many things. Often it
is a call for attention. Do not go running when the bird screams. That merely reinforces the behavior since that is
what the bird wants you to do. Eventually this will result in a persistent screamer. A more extreme situation is
separation anxiety. This is a form of anxiety attack. These birds may not only scream, but also engage in
destructive behavior to either themselves or their environment. They need a comprehensive program of
behavioral conditioning, and sometimes anti-anxiety medication. If your bird is traumatizing itself, feather picking,
or destroying its environment as well as screaming, you should discuss the problem with your Veterinarian.
Other causes of screaming include stress, fright, anger, playfulness, and excitement. Understanding the
underlying cause of the screaming helps in identifying what if anything needs to change in order to reduce the
screaming. You should also be aware of the species variation in vocalization. Some birds such as Nanday
Conures or Moluccan Cockatoos are much more vocal than others.
C. BITING
One of the main forms of expression for a pet bird is using its beak. This does not mean that biting should be
allowed. On the other hand, neither does it mean that every time a bird puts its beak on you they are going to
bite. As you become more familiar with your bird and its habits, you will be able to understand its moods. Biting
is something you should deal with. If your bird is aggressively biting, talk to your Veterinarian, breeder, or
members of a bird club to learn how to deal with it.
DETERMINATION OF SEX
This can be very difficult. In most instances, there is no need to know the sex of your bird. Some species have
observable differences. Budgerigars have different color ceres. Males have a blue cere and females a brown or pink
cere. Cockatiels have characteristic spots on the underside of the primary wing feathers of females and solid color on
males. This can be difficult to determine on some color patterns, pearly for instance. Eclectus parrots have greatly
different color patterns with females being red and males green. Most other species of psittacine birds are more
difficult or impossible to determine sex by external appearance. In these species, sex can be determined either by
surgical examination of the internal reproductive organs, of by chromosome analysis of newly forming feathers.
HANDLING
At some time or other, you may have to catch and hold your bird. Properly done, this will do no harm for the
inexperienced or beginner, the first step may be to lower the perches. With the obstructions removed, small birds
may be caught with your hands, but larger birds should be covered with a towel and then picked up. Birds breathe by
expanding their chest. This is why a bird cannot be held by its body, and must be restrained primarily by holding the
head and neck tightly.
13
ALERTNESS IS THE KEY TO BIRD HEALTH
Birds hide their problems very effectively, and when they begin to obviously manifest their illness, they are already
seriously ill. The bird that dies "suddenly" has probably been sick for some time and was not recognized as being
abnormal. Birds are actually very hardy and tolerate problems as well as any other animal. If given a chance, birds
live a long time. Because of this difficulty in detecting illness early, the following is recommended:
A. Observe closely for any signs of illness.
B. Take your bird to the Veterinarian annually for a check up. This will include a physical examination, a 24-hour
dropping analysis and a blood test (total protein, packed cell volume, and white blood cell count estimate).
C. Watch for any of these signs of sickness:
1. Change in the character of the droppings or a decrease in the number or volume.
2. Change in food or water consumption.
3. Change in attitude - generally observed as a decreased activity (inactivity), talking less (or more poorly),
singing less, or no response to stimuli.
4. Change in bird's appearance or posture. A sick bird generally ruffles his feathers, begins closing his eyes in
a sleepy fashion, and will be sitting low on the perch (droopy).
5. Any noticeable breathing while resting, heavy breathing after exertion, change in character of voice, and any
respiratory sounds (sneeze, wheeze, or click).
6. Any enlargement -- even fat is abnormal in a bird.
STRESS IN CAGED BIRDS
Birds experience stress from the day they are born. Their dependence on the parents to provide them with proper
diet, environment, and protection against enemies and weather is absolute. Any accident to the parents during this
"weaning stage" would mean the certain death of the chicks. Graduating from this stage means that it must be taught
by its parents to fly, find its own food including the killing of prey in some species.
The young bird is clumsy, usually hungry, and always afraid of its environment. It is also the time when many of these
adolescent birds are captured and confinement begins. Confinement is always a stress to any young bird deprived of
its parents, its nest, and freedom all at the same time. This confinement lasts until the next pickup from the native
area, which may be days or weeks, at which time they are transported over rough terrain under crowded conditions
and with poor food and water supply to a holding area not much better in hygiene.
Then this impressionable bird is flown to an area where it is stuck in quarantine for a period of thirty to sixty days. It is
subjected to great physical and emotional stress. The birds are released from quarantine and sold either to large pet
shop owners, bird wholesalers, or to jobbers, who in turn sell them to smaller pet shops, who in turn sell them to you.
Then the ultimate comes, when a bird is sold to an individual and, here again, is another change of environment,
hopefully to a desirable one. This is the bird's first exposure to affection, good nutrition, some degree of solitude, and
a clean environment.
Is it any wonder at this point that their feathers are broken and dull? They are fearful, defensive, and confused. They
are lucky to be alive.
Just one more thing is required, and that is a trip to the Veterinarian for a complete physical examination, detection of
disease, trimming of nails, wings, and beak properly, removal of any leg bands, and gaining information and literature
regarding proper diet, caging, perching, vitamin and mineral supplements, and parasite control.
Have patience with this very stressed, new member of your family; he doesn't know that this is his lucky day!
14
The above information depicts the situation for imported birds. Many of the undesirable steps now can be avoided by
purchasing a domestically raised bird. The cost may be higher, but your problems are likely to be much fewer.
Remember, however, that even domestically raised birds undergo many stressors before they reach their final
destination. They should also be thoroughly examined by a Veterinarian soon after purchase.
RESPIRATORY PROBLEMS OF BIRDS
After nutrition related diseases, respiratory disease is the most common disease of birds. Birds have a unique
respiratory system. There is no diaphragm and so the majority of air movement results from movement of the chest
and abdominal walls. Remember this when holding your bird to give medication of any type. Excessive pressure on
the chest and abdomen may produce respiratory arrest in the bird!!
Signs of respiratory diseases may range from ruffled feathers, failure to talk, loss of appetite, to tail bobbing.
Discharges from the cere or mouth, and sneezing, tail bobbing, or flicking the tail down indicates severe respiratory
impairment. Inexperienced handlers should not pick up this bird under any conditions. Most respiratory diseases in a
bird are far advanced by the time that the owner recognizes it.
Examination includes observation of breathing habits, palpation of the sterna musculature to give an idea of the
duration of the disease, and listening with a stethoscope. Any discharge present in the opening to the cere should be
cultured to define antibiotic therapy, and the mouth thoroughly examined for swelling or discharges. It is not
uncommon to place the bird in an incubator for an hour or two prior to handling to ease the stress and to improve the
lot of the bird. Observation of the bird after replacement in his cage is one of the Veterinarian's greatest tools in
determining its reaction to this stress, and the prognosis for treatment. Once the bird is stabilized, it is extremely
important to evaluate chest radiographs. Many times the radiographs reveal abdominal masses pressing on the
respiratory system. A blood sample is vital to indicate the length of time the bird has had the disease, its severity, and
other organ system diseases present, and therefore aid in determining the diagnosis and prognosis.
TAMING BIRDS
Make certain that you have given the bird two weeks of quarantine during which time it has an opportunity to adjust to
its new surroundings. The bird must be eating well, and its droppings and overall appearance must be satisfactory.
The bird should have been checked for worms, and the fecal sample cultured for disease -- causing bacteria.
The first lessons should be started after it is dark outside and may simply consist of opening the cage door, allowing
the bird to climb to the top of its cage. Some birds jump from the cage, and others refuse to leave it. If you have a
bird that refuses to leave, do not force the issue. Simply leave the door open ten to fifteen minutes and close it.
Whatever you do, be consistent and do it each time. When the bird comes out of the cage, offer it peanuts, corn, or
banana from your hand. For the bird that will not leave the cage, offer food while it is sitting on the perch. If it looks at
you, sits on the perch, and takes food from your hand, you are doing well.
The early lessons may be spent just standing in front of a cage, hand-feeding the bird. Once the bird comes from the
cage, it should be taught immediately to step onto a perch and remain there. Never force a bird, and use a training
stick to direct the bird in the direction that you wish it to go. If it flies off the cage, use a stick either to pick it up or
direct it to climb back to the table where the cage is present and let it climb back up to the cage. Block all attempts of
the bird to leave the area. If the bird refuses to return to its cage, just put out the light and it will be much more
manageable.
The early lessons are used to build trust. Teach the bird to step onto a training stick as soon as possible. Work on
teaching the bird to come from the cage in an orderly manner, proceeding calmly to the top of the cage. It should sit
there and step on and off the training stick.
15
If the bird will step onto your hand, avoid the stick for now. The more trust the bird has with you, the better it will be
for the bird. Once the bird is used to your environment, then train it to a stick. This can be useful in stressful situations
or when a stranger is taking care of your bird.
Under no circumstances should a glove be worn as it only creates distrust of human handlers in a bird's mind.
Remember that the entire goal is to create and reinforce trust in people. Once the bird is hand tamed, try touching its
feet, back, and the top of its head.
Be consistent. Approach the cage slowly from the same direction each time. Say the same things each time. Open
the cage and present the training stick at the same angle each time. Once the bird is comfortable and consistent with
one way, and has been for a period of time, approach it in a new way. Still keeping up the other way as well. Not
being predictable can be good mental stimulation.
Remember, there is no standard time to achieve results. Keep the lessons short, and above all, be patient. Your
reward will be the finest, most affectionate pet that has ever shared your life.
BIRD DISEASES -- WHICH ARE EMERGENCIES?
Most emergencies in companion birds involve gastro-intestinal or respiratory diseases, trauma, or bleeding. Cage
birds tend to hide signs of disease, thus making apparent sudden onset of illness common. Small birds such as
budgerigars ("parakeets") and finches should pass 40 or more droppings daily if they are eating enough for
maintenance. Decreased dropping counts indicate inadequate food intake. Normal droppings consist about equally of
urates and fecal material; abnormally high urate levels may indicate kidney disease.
Bile causes greenish discoloration of droppings. Bits of tissue or blood indicate severe intestinal inflammation, and
undigested seeds are a sign of gut hypermotility. Nasal or ocular discharge or conjunctivitis may indicate localized
upper respiratory inflammation or deep - seated respiratory disease. The bird's reaction to light and heat as well as
the character of respiration should be determined. Examination of birds, which can perch and are eating, can usually
be postponed until the next day.
Trauma following collision with an object is seldom immediately fatal; usually the bird's condition deteriorates as
inflammation develops for 6 - 8 hours. Trauma should therefore be suspected when the bird has been in good health,
has no visible signs of respiratory or enteric disease, and is in good flesh. For trauma involving the brain,
prednisolone or dexamethasone is given to reduce shock and control inflammation. A bird maimed by an animal is
also given antibiotics and fluids since, wound contamination and fluid loss are almost certain.
Fractured legs and wings are usually held abnormally, and should be examined and treated as soon as possible.
Antibiotics should be given in compound fracture cases, with steroids as needed to alleviate shock. If bleeding
occurs, apply simple compression or, if this is impractical, ice, Kwik Stop, or flour. Keep the bird warm, calm, and
immobile. If much blood has been lost, the bird should be given steroids, antibiotics, and fluids. If bleeding from a
broken feather or feather follicle cannot be controlled by compression for 10 -- 15 minutes, the bird should be brought
to the hospital while compression is maintained.
EMERGENCY TREATMENT
Temporary care until a Veterinarian can see the bird
If ever the bird sits with its feathers ruffled, eyes partially closed, droopy appearance, or if there are signs of diarrhea
or respiratory problems, the bird should be treated immediately. Also any bird that has been injured, sustained a
broken leg or wing, been bitten by a cat, dog or other animal, or been burned or chilled should likewise be started on
emergency care.
16
Every part of the following is important:
A. INCUBATOR -- A temporary incubator can be made by placing a heating pad along side the cage and then the
entire cage is wrapped with plastic and a cage cover. The temperature should be maintained at 80 - 85 degrees.
Should the cage temperature become too hot, the bird will start breathing rapidly, hold his wings out from the
sides of his body, and the feathers will be held so close or tight to the body that he will appear skinny.
B. FOOD -- A bird that stops eating dies. Therefore, every effort must be made to encourage the bird to eat. Cups
of food are placed adjacent to where the bird is perched, food is scattered on the bottom of the cage if the bird is
off his perch. The Veterinarian will immediately force feed a bird by passing a stomach tube.
C. REST -- Sick birds need rest, and thus, should be in a darkened room or covered to insure 12 - 16 hours of
sleep. A two-hour nap in the morning or afternoon is advisable.
D. DROPPINGS -- Start counting droppings. The number or volume of droppings will be of great concern to the
Veterinarian. Better yet, save the droppings for the Veterinarian to view.
E. DON'T
1.
2.
3.
4.
Don't give alcohol-containing drinks.
Don't use laxatives.
Don't use oil.
Don't stop food.
F. DO TELEPHONE YOUR VETERINARIAN
DANGERS TO BIRDS
All of these should be seriously considered.
Glass Mirrors
Open pans of water
Overeating grit
Paddle fans
Leg bands
Smoke
Cats & other pets
Alcohol
Open windows
Unwashed fruits and vegetables
Tropical plants
Long toenails and beak
Spoiled foods--moldy grain
Thread
Paint fumes
Burnt Teflon
Carbon monoxide
Loud noises
Overheating--sunstroke
Leaded glass windows
Cigarette butts
Small amounts of insecticides or poison--especially aerosols
Any volatile material including cleaning agents, spray wax, hair spray, paint fumes, insecticides etc.
17
THE FOLLOWING FELLOW LIVING CREATURES CAN BE DANGEROUS TO PET BIRDS:
Humans who are not used to being around birds
Cats
Humans who are not careful
Dogs
Humans who are children (literally and figuratively)
Other pet birds
Humans who are distracted or in a hurry
Birds of prey
Humans who sleep with their birds
Snakes
Humans who are drunk or on drugs
Ferrets, weasels and such
Humans who do not watch out for their pet bird at all times
Raccoons, opossums and such
Humans who are angry at their pet bird
Poisonous insects
Humans who do not properly care for their pet bird
(In other words, humans are by far the most dangerous creatures that a pet bird will ever likely encounter)
THE FOLLOWING HOUSEHOLD ITEMS CAN BE DEADLY TO PET BIRDS:
(This is only a partial list. Be "bird alert" to other potential disasters waiting to happen)
Alcohol, Chlorine, Fertilizers, Salt, Tobacco, Selenium
shampoo
Alcoholic beverages
Antiques
Baits and poisons
Batteries, solder, bullets, air rifle pellets
Boat supplies requiring weights
Caustic agents such as liquid drain cleaners
Ceiling fans
Chocolate
Cleaning agents - Cleansers, soaps and detergents
Dolomite and bone meal products (some)
Electrical cords
Excessive dust, smoke, or other particulates.
Foil from wine or champagne bottles
Gas leaking from heater, stove or other appliance
Gasoline, kerosene and other fuel-oils
Insecticides, rodent poisons and similar chemicals
Lead frames of stained glass
Leaded gasoline fumes
Lids and doors to microwaves, toasters, bread boxes,
etc.
Medications (with dosage not calculated for weight of
bird)
Mirror backing, linoleum, zippers, jewelry, light bulb
bases
Molds present in the cage or other areas of the
environment
Moldy seed or food
Old paint, sheetrock, galvanized wire, screens
Open toilets
Ovens and stove top burners
Paint, thinners and similar products
Parasiticides, Pesticides or rodenticides
Prescription and non-prescription drugs
Scalding water in pots or from faucet
Sinks and tubs of water
Spray can propellants and other aerosol fumes or
volatile products
Teflon or other non-stick products when heated dry
Tiffany lamps
Weighted items (ash trays, books, toy penguins made
for small birds)
Weights for windows, diving, fishing
18
THE FOLLOWING PLANTS CAN BE POISONOUS TO PET BIRDS:
(This is only a partial list. Be "bird alert" with any plant or food you are not completely certain about)
Acocanthera (fruit and flowers)
Amaryllis (bulbs)
Amsinckia -- Tarweed (foliage, seeds)
Anemone -- wildflower (all parts)
Angel Trumpet Tree (flowers and leaves)
Apple (seeds)
Apricot (all parts, especially pits, inner seed)
Atropa Belladona (all parts, especially black berries)
Autumn Crocus (bulbs)
Avocado (foliage)
Azalea (all parts)
Balsam pear (seeds, outer rind of fruit)
Baneberry (berries, roots, foliage)
Beach Pea (all parts)
Betel Nut Palm (all parts)
Belladonna (all parts)
Bird of paradise (seeds)
Bittersweet (berries)
Black locust (bark, sprouts, foliage)
Bleeding Heart (foliage, roots)
Bluebonnet (all parts)
Bluegreen Algae (some forms are toxic)
Bloodroot (all parts)
Bottlebrush (flowers)
Boxwood (all parts)
Buckeye Horse Chestnut (sprouts, nuts)
Buckthorn (fruit, bark)
Buttercup (sap, bulbs)
Calla lily (all parts)
Caladium (all parts)
Cardinal Flower (all parts)
Carolina Jessamine (foliage, flowers, sap)
Cassava (roots)
Castor bean (oil, beans, leaves)
Chalice vine -- Trumpet vine (all parts)
Cherry tree (bark, twigs, leaves, pits)
Cherry Laurel (foliage, flowers)
Chinaberry tree (berries)
Christmas Berry (berries)
Christmast Cactus (sap)
Christmas candle (all parts)
Christmas Rose (foliage, flowers)
Columbine (foliage, flowers, seeds)
Common Privet (foliage, berries)
Coral plant (all parts)
Crocus (bulbs)
Croton (foliage, shoots)
Cyclamen (foliage, stems, flowers)
Daffodil (bulbs, foliage, flowers, pods)
Daphne (berries)
Datura -- Jimsonweed (berries, leaves, seeds)
Deadly amanita (all parts)
Deadly nightshade (all parts)
Death camas (all parts)
Death cap mushroom (all parts)
Delphinium (all parts)
Dieffenbachia -- Dumb cane (leaves)
Destroying Angel -- Death cap (all parts)
Dogwood -- (fruit)
Dutchman's Breeches (foliage, roots)
Eggplant (all parts but fruit)
Elderberry (foliage)
Elephant's ear -- Taro (leaves, stem)
English ivy (berries, leaves)
Equisetum (all parts)
Euphorbia -- Spurges (foliage, flowers, sap)
False Hellebore (all parts)
False henbane (all parts)
Fiddleneck -- Senecio (all parts)
Fly Agaric -- Amanita (all parts)
Four O’clock (all parts)
Foxglove (leaves, seeds)
Gelsemium (all parts)
Ghostweed (all parts)
Golden chain -- Laburnum (all parts, especially
seeds)
Hemlock (all parts, especially roots and seeds)
Henbane (seeds)
Holly -- English and American (berries)
Horse Chestnut (nuts, twigs)
Horsetail Reed -- Equisetum (all parts)
Hyacinth (bulbs)
Hydrangea (flower buds)
Indian turnip -- Jack-in-the-pulpit (all parts)
Impatiens -- Touch-me-not (all parts)
Iris (bulbs)
Ivy -- all forms (foliage, fruit)
Jasmine (foliage, flowers, sap)
Jasmine star (foliage, flowers)
Jatropha (seeds, sap)
Java bean (uncooked bean)
Jerusalem cherry (berries)
Jessamine (berries)
Jimsonweed (foliage, flowers, seed pods)
Johnson grass (all parts)
Juniper (needles, stems, berries)
Laburnum (all parts)
Lambkill -- Sheep laurel (all parts)
Lantana (foliage, flowers, immature berries)
Larkspur (all parts)
Laurel (all parts)
19
Lily of the valley (All parts, including water they have
been kept in)
Lima bean -- Java bean (uncooked bean)
Lobelia (all parts)
Locoweed (all parts)
Lords and ladies -- Cuckoopint (all parts)
Lupine (foliage, pods, seeds)
Machineel (all parts)
Marijuana (leaves)
Mayapple (all parts, except fruit)
Mescal bean (all parts)
Milkweed (foliage)
Mistletoe (berries)
Moccasin flower (foliage, flowers)
Mock orange (fruit)
Monkshood (leaves, flowers, roots)
Morning glory (all parts)
Mountain laurel (leaves, shoots)
Mushrooms -- most wild forms (caps, stems)
Narcissus (bulbs)
Natal cherry (berries, foliage)
Nectarine (all parts, especially pits, inner seed)
Nicotine bush (foliage, flowers)
Nightshades (berries, leaves)
Oak (acorns, leaves)
Oleander (all parts)
Peach (all parts, especially pits, inner seed)
Pear (seeds)
Pennyroyal (foliage, flowers)
Peony (foliage, flowers)
Periwinkle (all parts)
Philodendron (leaves, stems)
Pikeweed (leaves, roots, immature berries)
Plum (foliage, inner seed)
Poinsettia (leaves, flowers)
Poison hemlock (foliage, seeds)
Poison ivy (sap)
Poison oak (foliage, fruit, sap)
Poison sumac (foliage, fruit, sap)
Pokewood -- Poke cherry (roots, fruit)
Poppy (all parts)
Potato plant (new shoots, eyes)
Privet (all parts)
Redwood (resinoids, leached wet wood)
Rhododendron (all parts)
Rhubarb (leaves, uncooked stems)
Rosary peas (seeds, flowers, pods)
Rosemary (foliage in some species)
Russian thistle (foliage, flowers)
Sage (foliage in some species)
Salmonberry (foliage, fruit)
Scarlet pimpernel (foliage, flowers, fruit)
Scotch broom (seeds)
Senecio -- Fiddleneck (all parts)
Skunk cabbage (all parts)
Snapdragon (foliage, flowers)
Snowdrop (all parts, especially buds)
Snow on the mountain -- Ghostweed (all parts)
Spanish bayonet (foliage, flowers)
Sudan grass (all parts)
Star of Bethlehem (foliage, flowers)
Sundew (foliage)
Sweet pea (seeds and fruit)
Tansy (foliage, flowers)
Taro -- Elephant's ear (foliage)
Tarweed (foliage, seeds)
Thornapple (flowers, foliage, pods)
Tiger Lilly (foliage, flowers, seed pods)
Toad flax (foliage)
Tobacco (leaves)
Tomato plant (foliage, vines)
Touch-me-not (all parts)
Toyon berry (berries)
Trillium (foliage)
Trumpet vine (all parts)
Venus flytrap (all parts)
Verbena (foliage, flowers)
Virginia creeper (sap)
Water hemlock (roots, foliage)
Wildflower (leaves, flowers)
Wild parsnip (roots, foliage)
Wisteria (all parts)
Yam bean (roots, immature pods)
Yellow star thistle (foliage, flowers)
Yew (American, English, Japanese) (needles, seeds)
20
THE FOLLOWING ARE SAFE PLANTS FOR PET BIRDS TO MUNCH ON AND PLAY WITH:
(In Moderation)
American bittersweet
Apple (except seeds)
Arbutus
Ash
Aspen
Autumn olive
Bamboo
Barberry
Beech (American and European)
Birch
Bladdernut
Blueberry
Comfrey
Coralberry
Cotoneaster firethorn
Cottonwood
Crabapple
Dogwood
Elderberry
Elm
Eucalyptus
Ferns
Fig plants
Fir
Grape ivy
Grape vine
Hawthorn
Herbs (most)
Huckleberry
Larch
Manzanita
Marigold
Nasturtium
Pine (all)
Poplar
Pothos
Pyracantha
Raspberry
Rose
Snowberry
Spruce
Spider plant
Spruce (all)
Swedish ivy
Viburnum
Wax plant
White poplar
Wil
21
UNDERSTANDING PARROTS
If humans are so smart, how come in order to communicate,
it is always the parrot that must learn a new language?
For many different reasons, parrots are the ultimate pet. Many species are the most beautiful of any commonly kept
pet, shimmering in iridescent, kaleidoscopic, feathered splendor. They are by far the most amusing of pets, big
league natural entertainers who leave dogs, cats and such as rank amateurs. And they are the one and only animal,
outside us, that is capable of human speech.
That last fact is very interesting, when you think about it, and turns out to be the key to understanding parrots. Talking
ability should be a low priority when looking for a parrot because many individual parrots -- even those of a
supposedly talkative species -- will never utter a word. But whether or not a particular individual parrot ever talks, the
very fact that its kin are capable of this stunning achievement dramatically indicates how intelligent these birds are.
Parrot owners have known for a long time what animal-intelligence researchers are only now discovering: Parrots
may not be simply repeating what they have been conditioned to say; many of these birds actually understand what
they are saying. Some scholars are now suggesting that parrots are perhaps the most intelligent of all birds, and
probably rank very high upon the scale of animal intelligence, perhaps ahead of such animals as dogs. Animal lovers
who keep both parrots and dogs have no trouble believing this to be true.
It is their incredible intelligence that makes caretaking a parrot such a marvelous experience... and/or sometimes a
nightmare.
When you bring a parrot into your home, it is not at all like bringing in a puppy or kitten. Cats, of course, are solitary
creatures that quickly develop their own self-sufficient independence, if not actual aloofness. Dogs typically happily
accept their role as a loved, but decidedly subordinate, member of the family pack. The parrot, however, seeks
neither independence or subordination... but rather full-fledged membership in the family flock, as an equal.
In the wild, parrots usually live in large, egalitarian communities. They are extremely social animals. They typically
bond very tightly with other individuals... and as a pet they will willingly and happily accept a human as their "partner".
This, of course, is far different than a cat accepting a human as its provider, or a dog accepting a human as its
master. And thus, the parrot requires a totally different approach and a fine-tuned understanding. The parrot that
does not receive this approach and understanding can rapidly turn into the "parrot from Hell."
It should be obvious by now that parrot ownership should be entered into very judiciously, and not at all by many
would-be keepers. The individual who does not have the time, energy, patience, facilities and personality to deal with
parrots should not have one. Plus, one should have a complete fascination with and love for parrots for the
relationship to truly soar.
There are hundreds of different kinds of parrots -- from the tiny parrotlets to the magnificent macaws (the largest bird
anyone should own). Yet every parrot is a clever, resourceful and sensitive creature that will crave stimulation and
attention. Parrots are not finches or canaries that can be left alone in a cage all day. They are not a pet to be fed and
forgotten. They require far more attention than even dogs. Indeed, a parrot should really be considered more of a
roommate than a pet.
Unfortunately, parrots are messier than even the messiest roommates. They also are louder; in fact there are
jackhammers quieter than a few parrot species. Some bite with the force of pliers... sharp pliers. And they are
capable of destruction that a demolition crew would admire. Add to these attributes the precociousness of, say, a
two-year-old child, and one can imagine the complexity and potential chaos of having a parrot around.
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Another thing to carefully consider is the longevity of parrots. A pet hamster lasts a couple of years; a dog maybe 15
or so. With some species of parrot, it is likelier that it will attend your funeral than you will mourn it.
One final aspect of parrot keeping may be the most horrific of all. Yes, we are talking about "aviholism." This dreaded
disease affects many, if not most, people who acquire a parrot. A 13-step program has been established to help treat
the thousands upon thousands of unfortunate souls who have gotten themselves tangled in the powerful hold of this
malady. What is "aviholism"? Simply, the compulsion to acquire more and more parrots. An aviholic figures, "one is
good, eight would be much better." Soon their entire life is awash in feathers, seeds and parrot poop... and they think
this is just GREAT! Whatever you do, don't let this happen to you.
So parrot keeping should be entered into very soberly and as a lifelong commitment... or perhaps not at all. Are we
trying to scare you off? Sure. Better that you never acquire a parrot, than get one only to get rid of it a short time
later. And make no mistake about it -- parrots are probably passed along from owner to owner more than any other
type of pet. Then there is that "aviholism" situation. We certainly do not want to encourage innocent people to walk
into the jaws of such a potential trap.
So, with all of the drawbacks to parrots, exactly what is the big attraction? Ah, that you will just have to find out for
yourself with a bit of study and the sincere desire to know the secrets of the world's best pet. You will find that the
dedicated parrot person cannot envision life without their beloved birds. Parrots' childlike quality, their intelligence,
their quirky, hilarious mannerisms, their endearing jabber, their unsurpassed beauty, their complete devotion to their
human friends render parrots the most magical of all creatures willing to share their lives with the right person. The
question isn't whether parrots are right for you; it is whether you are right for parrots.
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WHICH BIRD FOR ME?
By R.R. Holster/PetStation
Introduction: For millions of people around the world, bird ownership is truly one of the great joys of their lives. Birds
have been kept as pets by royalty for thousands of years, but only fairly recently have such an astounding array of
birds been available to the general public. Today birds are more popular than ever, and likely to only continue to
increase as the pet of choice for more and more people. Some birds should not be kept as pets. These include
species that are so rare that every available individual should be in a breeding program. Raptors, including eagles,
hawks and owls, do not make good pets and should not be kept encaged. An exception to this rule is falcons, which
should only be kept by experienced bird handlers. Most types of native American birds such as robins, sparrows,
mockingbirds, woodpeckers and most aquatic and shore birds fare very poorly in captivity.
No one should want to keep a bird unsuitable for captive living when there are so many types that readily adapt to
human companionship. There are literally hundreds of species of birds, ranging from some of the tiniest to some of
the biggest, that thrive as pets and contribute greatly to a mutually beneficial relationship... if matched with the right
owner.
WHY A BIRD?: Some people are just not animal people, period. Yet even many dog and cat lovers entirely fail to
see why anyone in their right mind would bring a noisy, messy bird into their home. What these people do not
understand is the entirely different type of magic that pet birds bring to a relationship with humans. Researchers have
recently confirmed what bird-owners have long known: that certain birds, parrots especially, are among the smartest
creatures on Earth... some perhaps far more intelligent than dogs or cats. Yet no bird is truly domesticated. Aside
from some color mutations and the occasional hybrid, most have not been tampered with by human genetic folly. Pet
birds are among the rarest of wild animals in that they can potentially become loving members of a human family.
And what animals they are! Stunningly beautiful. Amazingly clever and amusing. Singers of the highest order. And a
certain group are even the only animals capable of human speech. Many birds put to shame other pets in terms of
entertainment potential, loyalty and absolute devotion to their human flockmates. It is no wonder that keepers around
the world are enchanted by these little bundles of wonder.
WHAT TO CONSIDER: With hundreds of birds to choose from, how is the first-time bird owner ever to make a
decision? There are six main considerations that may greatly narrow the field.
The first and most important consideration is your Expectation. What do you expect out of a bird? What is your
motivation for buying a bird? How is it going to improve your life, and how committed are you to taking good care of
the bird? If you possess the time, energy and love to give to a fascinating companion and are truly interested in the
magic that birds can bring to your life, then you are probably a good candidate for bird ownership.
Otherwise, beware! Many birds require far more attention and care than some prospective owners at first realize.
Please don’t buy a bird (or any animal) on a whim or as some sort of ego-extension. They are not decoration pieces.
The thrill wears off and you are stuck with the pet — and worse, the pet is stuck with you! Moreover, many bird
species are extremely long-lived. In acquiring certain parrot species, you are entering into not a 10-20 year
commitment, but possibly a 50-year plus commitment!
The second thing to consider is your Living Conditions. If you live in an apartment, with other people, with children or
with other pets (including other birds), you will need to carefully consider how a bird is going to affect your total
situation. Are you home enough to care for a pet that needs such attention? Are you prepared to deal with the mess
that many birds make? Do you travel often? Some birds may not be compatible with your style of living.
The third consideration is your own Personality. Some birds are quiet, unobtrusive and hardly noticeable as
household entities. But others are loud, boisterous, rowdy and rule a home as if they are lords of the manor. Most
birds require lots of love and patience in order to gently win their confidence and teach them be good family
members. Some birds will end up dominating a very unhappy owner. Get a bird that is not going to clash with your
essential nature.
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Your fourth consideration is the Source of your bird. From where and whom are you buying your pet? Try to buy
directly from a breeder, or at least from a pet shop that specializes in birds. Look carefully at how the birds are
housed and handled, and be wary of dirty places and handlers who don’t show their birds respect and love. Inspect
the bird physically, and look for one that has clear eyes and nostrils, nice shiny feathers, an alert expression, no
noticeable defects and one that is not overly aggressive or seems desperate to flee. Always insist on a guarantee
that you can take the bird to your veterinarian for a complete health checkup and return it for a full refund if it is
diseased or otherwise seriously flawed.
Try to buy a very young hand-fed bird, preferably a just-weaned youngster. Do not take on the responsibility of handfeeding yourself unless you are very experienced. An inexperienced hand-feeder can easily kill the bird. Be wary of
taking on an older bird, and don’t buy a bird you suspect was wild-caught or imported; these do not make the best
pets.
You must also carefully consider the Financial Investment you are making in this pet. Not just the initial purchase,
which, of course, can be very significant, but also the on-going cost of proper pet care — cage, toys, food, inevitable
vet bills, pet sitting, etc. All of this can adds up to a considerable continuing expense. It’s only worth it, of course, if
you are in love with this pet.
One word of caution: DO NOT look for “a bargain” when buying your bird. Comparison shops, yes, but beware of the
“too-good-to-be-true” price. That “bargain” will likely cost you dearly in the long run.
Finally, it is important to note the growing concern amongst the bird-keeping community for the welfare of “only
birds”. Almost all pet-quality birds are species that are “flock birds,” living in large social groups in the wild. It can be
cruel to keep them as solitary avian members of a family, which can spend only a few hours per day truly interacting
with them, while leaving them alone for hours upon hours, day after day. So if you want to be a bird-keeper, please
make plans to have more than one.
Probably more than any other type of pet, birds — especially many parrots — get passed from owner to owner. This
is a great shame, can psychologically damage the bird, and could be easily avoided if each prospective owner simply
used a little common sense before taking on such a responsibility.
That said, however, if you find yourself with a bird that you cannot care for, cannot handle, or plain just don’t like... it
then becomes your grave responsibility to atone for your mistake by finding the bird a more suitable owner. In an
unhappy living environment, a bird can literally “go crazy” of boredom, loneliness or abuse. These birds are prime
candidates for such neuroses as feather plucking and/or constant screaming.
Unfortunately, birds are like most pets... they cannot choose their human companions. Humans choose them. The
least we can do is choose very carefully. Whatever you do, read as much as you can about the type of bird that you
are thinking of acquiring. Talk to people who own — or better yet breed and raise — your kind of bird. Then prepare
to be enchanted by your brand new family member. There is nothing like a pet bird!
COMMON PET BIRDS: The following short descriptions are meant solely as introductory, general information. Keep
in mind that individual birds of the same species can greatly differ in personality. Also, this is only a partial list of
some common species that can make excellent pets; other species may also warrant consideration. Thoroughly
research a variety of compatible species before making any decisions.
Code Keys: A = generally OK in an apartment; C = generally OK with children; E = best left to experienced handlers;
F = good first bird; $ = less than $100; $$ = $100-300; $$$ = $300-800; $$$$ = $800 and up.
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AMAZON PARROTS - Medium large parrots from Mexico, Central and South America. Most are mainly green with
various coloring on the head and underwings. There are many different types, with a variety of personalities. Very
popular among more experienced bird keepers. Some are great talkers. Sometimes loud. Require extensive
attention. Can be very affectionate. Many species are among smartest of all birds, but some can be temperamental
and aggressive. Lilac-crowned, Orange-winged among types regarded as more gentle. Commonly available: Bluefronted, Green-cheeked, Orange-winged, Red-headed, Red-lored, Spectacled (White-fronted), Yellow-headed,
Yellow-nape. E, $$$-$$$$.
BROTOGERIS PARAKEETS - This lively group of small parrots from South America is comprised of a handful of
birds sometimes referred to as “dwarf” parrots. Mainly green with variously colored and placed adornments, these
little guys can make great pets and some can even talk a bit. For a long while the Bee Bee (also known as the Tovi
and Orange-chinned) Parakeet was the most popular of this genus in the pet market. These days the Grey-cheeked
(or Orange-winged) has won wider acceptance as far as American breeders are concerned. Also sometimes
available are the Tui, Golden-winged, Canary-winged, Cobalt-winged and White-winged. A, C, F, $$-$$.
BUDGERIGARS - “Budgies”, mistakenly called “parakeets” (any smallish parrot with a long tail is technically a
“parakeet”) in the U.S., are little gems native to Australia. Perhaps the most popular pet bird of all, budgies are
members of the parrot family and come in a dazzling array of humanly-manipulated colors (in the wild they are
usually green). If acquired young and handled carefully they can become very affectionate. They are an ideal first
bird and can live comfortably in an apartment. They can learn to talk well; one famous budgie had a vocabulary of
over 500 words. Soft, sweet voices. Once you have your first budgie tamed and trained, consider getting another one
as a playmate. A, C, F, $.
CAIQUES - Pronounced “ca-yeeks” or sometimes just “kikes”, these medium-small parrots hail from South America.
There are two common species, which have slightly different coloration but are generally identical in personality.
Lively, charming and playful, but some can be stubborn, nippy, even aggressive, while others become very tame and
friendly. Almost all require disciplined handling. Loud. Voracious chewers. Not common in pet stores, but can be
easily ordered from breeders: Black-headed, White-breasted (White-bellied). E, $$-$$$.
CANARIES - An established champion of the pet bird world, the beloved canary from the Canary Islands and West
Africa has been enjoyed for its color and song for hundreds of years. Canaries don’t typically bond with humans or
become affectionate, although there are some exceptions. The joy of canary ownership stems from their lively and
beautiful presence as a visual and auditory enhancement to your quality of life. Many different colorations available.
A perfect first bird, bird for children and species for beginner breeders as well. Yes, it’s true that only solitary males
will sing... they are singing a song of desperate loneliness. Get two! A, C, F, $.
COCKATIELS - Another all-time favorite, this Australian native of the parrot family is sometimes regarded as a “step
up” from the smaller finches, canaries and budgies. Though its colors are more muted that many other pet species,
its popularity stems from its lively personality. A member of the cockatoo family, the much smaller cockatiel
resembles its larger cousins in affection potential but displays few of the less desirable personality quirks of many
cockatoos. With diligent handling, a young bird should become exceptionally tame and friendly. Sweet, relatively
quiet voices. A range of different color varieties are generally available, with some of the more rare types
comparatively expensive. Perfect for apartments and households with kids. A, C, F, $.
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COCKATOOS - Surely among the most exotic of pet birds, the cockatoo is also one of the most intelligent and
personable. These medium to large, crested birds from Australia and South Pacific islands have charmed many
generations of pet owners with their nutty antics. Yet this complex bird requires diligent handling and care, and fully
expects to be treated as a member of the family. Cockatoos are one of the few types of parrot that can develop into a
too affectionate bird, wanting to be cuddled all the time. There are numerous species generally available. Most are
predominantly white, though the Rose-breasted Cockatoo is mainly grey and pink, while some of the larger, even
more exotic and rare cockatoos, such as the Palm, are black. Cockatoos are sometimes strong-willed, can be
downright quirky and may grow even more head-strong as they get older. Those completely inexperienced with birds
should opt for a cockatiel. Very loud. Big-time chewers. Not always good with other birds or pets. Some are decent
talkers. Commonly available species: Umbrella, Goffin’s, Moluccan, Citron, Lesser Sulpher-crested, Greater Sulphercrested, Triton, Rose-breasted, Blue-eyed, Bare-eyed. E, $$$-$$$$.
CONURES - Sometimes referred to as the “champions of charm” this huge group of Mexican, Central and South
American parrots, most of them medium-small in size, has exploded into popularity over the past two decades. A few
offer dazzling color schemes, yet even the most blandly adorned are playful little clowns that can make ideal,
affectionate pets. These birds are small enough and gentle enough (when acquired young and hand-fed) that they
could be considered as a first bird by the more serious keeper. Most of the larger conures, however, have fairly loud
screeches that might render them unsuitable as apartment dwellers (although this oft-cited “drawback” is sometimes
grossly overstated — many pet conures rarely turn it up to volume 10, and aren’t even in the same league with
cockatoos and macaws in loudness). Most conures get along well with birds of other species. Among the highly
recommended and generally available pet species are: Sun, Jenday, Gold-capped, Peach-fronted, Red-fronted,
Green, Red-Masked, Mitred, White-eyed, Nanday, Blue-crowned, Halfmoon, Dusky, Cactus, Lesser Patagonian. F,
C, $-$$$. Smaller, generally quieter species: Maroon-bellied, Green-cheeked. A, F, C, $-$$.
DOVES- Various types of doves from America, Mexico and even Europe are available for sale as pets. Like their
more domesticated cousin, the pigeon, doves are not known for their astounding personality or affection, yet in an
aviary setting they can add beauty and elegance to a backyard setting. These birds should be kept in colonies in a
large aviary, certainly not as an individual prisoner in a small cage. Good bird for kids and beginning breeders. Many
species to select from. F, C, $.
ECLECTUS PARROTS - This very striking, medium large bird from Australia, Indonesia and various South Pacific
islands is like few other parrots. The males and females of many parrots are impossible to distinguish; yet the two
genders of Eclectus were once thought to be entirely different species! The male is an emerald green with patches of
blazing reds and yellows; the female is a deep red, shading to maroon along the back and tending to mauve in
places, usually with a blue bib. The male has a horn-colored upper beak, while the female’s is black. Both sexes
have unique, fine feathers. If hand-raised and handled regularly “Eckers” can make excellent pets, and despite their
size can often be trusted around children though this bird is probably best with more experienced bird-owners. Good
talkers. Fairly quiet. Four main species, all very similar, are generally available. E, C, $$$$.
FINCHES - The beautiful, tiny finch from Australia, Africa and other exotic locales has been a beloved pet bird for
hundreds of years. Though they are usually not particularly affectionate toward humans, they can thrive in a home
setting either in pairs or as a multicolored aviary colony. They should never be kept, as single individuals... and
please don’t set them up in those tiny little cages. Many serious fanciers set them up in spacious aviaries and revel in
their constant flittering and soft chattering, often being rewarded with babies. A seemingly unending array of species
and color schemes are available, ranging from a few dollars to a cost-per-ounce price rivaling the most expensive
parrots. Perfect for first-timers, children and would-be breeders. A, C, F, $.
GRASS PARAKEETS - Stunningly beautiful, these relatively small parrots from Australia are not particularly
common as pets in the US, but perhaps they should be. They are quiet, with sweet voices, and generally have a nonaggressive temperament, though they can be a bit flighty. Most, but not all, can be kept with other birds. If hand-fed
and handled very regularly they can make good pets. Many different species and colorations are available from
breeders. The most common species: Bourke’s, Turquoisine, Scarlet-chested, Orange-bellied, Blue-winged, Redrumped, Bluebonnet, and similar birds: Princess of Wales, Barraband’s, Rock Pebblar. A, C, $$-$$$.
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GREY PARROTS - The acknowledged champion of talking parrots, this native of Africa is known the world over for
its intelligence and personality. It is a medium large bird, with primarily grey-streaked plumage and a red tail. Popular
among experienced keepers, the Grey can become a “one-person” bird, temperamental or aggressive. Some have a
tendency to feather-pick. Its complex personality requires a lot of attention. Not usually very loud. Two species
commonly available, the Congo and Timneh, similar in general appearance but differing in size and price. E, $$$$$$$.
LORIES/LORIKEETS - This group includes some of the most beautiful birds in the world, and perhaps the most
playful. Yet they were not popular as pets in the past because they primarily feed on nectar, which when it comes out
the other end is messy liquid waste. Now, however, dry lory food is commercially available, making these wonderful
birds a potential pet choice for many more people. They are certain to grow rapidly in popularity. They are mediumsmall parrots, mostly from Australia and South Pacific islands. Most are very intelligent, curious and fairly high-strung,
so they will need discipline from a confident owner. However, their acrobatic antics are a sight to see, and handreared individuals can become very tame and affectionate. Typically not good with other birds of a different species.
Commonly available: Red (Moluccan), Red & Blue, Black-capped, Black, Chattering, “Rainbow” (several species),
Dusky, Goldie’s, Blue-streaked, Yellow-streaked, Duyvenbode’s, Violet-necked. E, $$-$$$.
LOVEBIRDS - These adorable, colorful little parrots from Africa are extremely affectionate and playful — with each
other. Naturally pugnacious, they are somewhat harder to tame down unless a single bird is acquired very young and
handled regularly. However, once tame they can make wonderful little companions, with even more engaging
personalities than cockatiels. Even untame, they can make a great addition to the household as a pair to simply
watch and admire as they go about the business of being lovebirds. Great species for beginning breeders. Sweet
voices with a surprising range of sounds. Four or five species and a variety of different color schemes are commonly
available: Peach-face, Black-mask, Blue-mask, Fischer’s. A, C, F, $.
MACAWS - The largest of the parrots, some with a wingspan of four feet, macaws can make the pet of a lifetime...
figuratively and literally. With a life expectancy in captivity of 60 years or more, this bird (and many other types of
parrots) may well outlive you. Its size and dazzling color certainly impress (and this is the bird that is most often
acquired as an “ego-extension”), but this is not a pet to acquire without great consideration. Befitting their size,
macaws require a great deal of care and handling. Hand-fed babies make very affectionate pets, are very intelligent,
active and demand your attention almost as much as two-year old child. Like Amazons and Cockatoos, their
personality sometimes turns more cantankerous as they age. Although many individuals are gentle as lambs, the
sheer power in those beaks makes them generally ill-suited for households with children. They can usually hold their
own in homes with dogs, but probably should not be kept with significantly smaller birds. Very loud. Major-league
chewers. All need a very large cage, and should not be left in their cage all day. Several varieties of mini-macaws are
available and would probably make better pets for the less experienced owner. Large: Blue and Gold (Blue and
Yellow), Scarlet, Green-winged, Military, Hyacinth. E, $$$$. Mini: Red-fronted, Severe, Illiger’s, Hahn’s, Yellowcollared, Noble. $$$-$$$$.
MYNAHS - Natives of Southeast Asia and Indonsia, Mynahs were once more popular than they are today, having
been largely pre-empted in the pet bird market by the huge influx of imported parrots in the 1960s and ‘70s. Mynahs
can be sensational talkers, capable of mimicking voices and sounds exactly. Some individuals can become quite
tame and friendly. Yet they are not typically as “cuddly” or as personable as many parrot-types, nor as colorful, thus
their diminished popularity. Several species available, some quite pricey. A, C, F $$-$$$.
PARAKEETS (see Budgerigar)
PARROTLETS - Also known as “pocket” parrots, these little bundles of joy from Mexico, Central and South America
are among the smallest members of the parrot family. Sometimes referred to as America’s answer to the African
lovebird, they are not quite as colorful as lovebirds, instead sporting a comparatively unpretentious but pretty green
and blue color scheme. When acquired young they tame down very nicely and have engaging personalities much
larger than their size would suggest. These are great for the beginning breeder as well. Several different species are
available: Mexican, Pacific (Celestial) being the most common. A, C, F, $-$$.
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PIGEONS - Pigeons, common denizen of parks and building facades, are kept as entertaining and faithfully
dependable “pets” by legions of admirers across the country. Pigeons don’t possess the engaging companion quality
of the parrot-type birds, and are usually kept in colonies in outside aviaries. A single pigeon kept encaged indoors
would most certainly be a pathetic sight. Raising and caring for pigeons can be a very valuable project for
youngsters, as well as for the serious hobbyist. F, C, $.
PIONUS PARROTS - The unassuming Pionus parrots of South America are quickly gaining popularity as pets in the
U.S. Medium-sized, with gentle dispositions, these are not the most impressive parrots visually at first, but they
deserve a closer look as both physical specimens and potential pets. In the sun their colors shimmer, revealing
dimensions hidden in the shadows. Similarly, these outstanding birds could just be your discovered treasure. Five
species are commonly available. The Blue-headed is perhaps the most common, followed by the Maximilian’s,
White-capped, Dusky and Bronze-winged. This is one of the few types of medium-sized parrot that, with proper care
and attention, could make a good first bird. Probably OK with a supervised or well-disciplined child. Relatively quiet;
not as demanding as Amazons, Macaws or even Conures. A, C, F, $$$.
POICEPHALUS PARROTS - This group of medium-small parrots from Africa has enjoyed surging popularity in the
past decade. They sport distinctive color patterns, comparatively quiet voices and generally docile personalities when
hand-fed and regularly handled. The Senegal Parrot is the most common of this genus, followed by the Meyer’s,
Jardine’s and Red-Bellied. A few other species are also sometimes available. This group of engaging parrots gained
great acceptance in Europe before the American market began to catch on. Now these birds are commonly seen in
pet bird shops across the country. Like the Pionus parrots, any of this group could be a good bet for apartment
dwellers and families with children, perhaps even an appropriate first bird choice for the dedicated owner. A, C, F, $$$$$.
PSITTICULA PARAKEETS - Perhaps the most elegantly-configured of all parrots, this group of very artfully colored,
medium-small parrots from India, Southeast Asia and Africa is fast gaining popularity among breeders and beginning
to make a more regular appearance in pet stores. Although these birds typically require a disciplining owner and
constant handling, they can become very trusting companions. The group is headed by the Indian Ring-necked
(Rose-ringed-necked), which in its normal color scheme is a beautiful emerald green. Some are excellent talkers.
Pastel blue and lutino (yellow) versions are also available, though more expensive. Second in popularity, and the
largest in size, from this group is the Alexandrine, whose pet potential comes highly recommended by those who
breed them. Also available: Plum-headed, Derbyan, Moustached. A, $$-$$$.
QUAKER PARAKEETS - Also called the Monk Parakeet, this is one of the most highly persecuted parrots in the
world, considered a pest by farmers and wantonly killed in its native range in South America. Even in the U.S.,
agricultural officials are so fearful of this bird that it is banned in several states, including California, Massachusetts,
Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Maryland and Georgia (check state agricultural laws for latest information). Yet owners
and breeders of these little charmers absolutely swear by them, sometimes claiming the Quaker as their favorite bird
of all. Hand-reared youngsters are adorably sweet and can become surprisingly good talkers. Usually green with a
grey face and chest, they also can be found in more expensive blue and yellow mutations. Sometimes loud. Great
chewers. Sometimes not especially good with other types of birds or pets, but they make an excellent first choice for
novice breeders. C, F, $$.
ROSELLAS - Considered by many the most beautiful parrot-type bird, Rosellas are natives of Australia and not
commonly available in pet stores in the US.... however, they can be easily acquired from breeders. On the nervous
side, they require constant handling to become and remain tame as pets, and more often are found in larger aviary
settings where they are enjoyed simply for their striking beauty and natural behavior. Despite the tempting allure of
this beautiful bird, less experienced keepers should probably opt for a more easily tamed and trained species. E, $$$$$.
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TOUCANS/TOUCANETS - Occasionally found for sale, toucans and their smaller cousins toucanets, all from Central
or South America, make for an exotic pet indeed. But buyers beware. Unless one is willing and able to work long and
diligently with these rainforest gems perhaps another species would make a more readily adaptable pet. Generally
speaking, toucans make better pets than the more nervous toucanets. Acquiring them very young is a must. They
require a soft-food diet and can be extremely messy. Several species available, some very expensive. E, $$-$$$.
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AN ONLY BIRD IS A LONELY BIRD
By R.R. Holster/PetStation
Slowly but surely we humans are coming out of the dark ages when it comes to bird-keeping. Not so very long ago it
was considered standard care to keep a parrot in a small cage or chained to a perch, feeding it nothing but seeds or
crackers. Thankfully, most parrot-keepers have evolved far beyond that unenlightened age.
Nowadays, many of our parrots live in $400-plus cages, equipped with a variety of expensive toys... are allowed out
of their cages to freely roam the house for extended periods, and are nourished with scientifically-designed diets,
including fresh fruits and veggies. We've come a long way, folks. And that is something to be proud of. It shows that
we, ourselves, are opening up to an awareness beyond our own self-consciousness and into a state of mind that
takes into account the true welfare and feelings of other beings that share our world.
Yet there is one area in which too many are still stubbornly stuck in the bird-keeping dark ages. That is the common
practice of keeping just one pet bird. As a result, there are far too many "only birds" suffering a life of prolonged and
unnatural loneliness.
Yes, there are exceptions to the rule that an only bird is a lonely bird. But not many. For the most part, the birds that
we commonly keep as pets are social birds. That's what makes them good pets in the first place. In their natural
place in the wild, they would be a part of an extended social group, the flock. Within this flock they would have
parents and siblings and buddies and, usually, a truly bonded partner.
The flock structure offers an individual bird its community, in which it learns everything it needs to learn, and receives
everything it needs for a happy, well-adjusted life. The sheer size of the flock also offers great security and real
protection for all of the members. Moreover, the flock creates an "aliveness" that keeps the members attentive and
interested all of the time.
In the wild, birds are not bored or neurotic. They don't pluck their feathers. They don't scream all day. Unfortunately,
caged birds do these very things all too often. In most of these cases, the pet bird is trying to express through these
various abnormal behaviors it is: "I'm lonely!" or "I'm scared!"
To your pet bird, you and perhaps the other members of the family are its flock. That would be OK if you were around
all the time. But you cannot be. So what happens when you leave... for hours at a time... perhaps day after day? You
place your only bird in a very unnatural and scary situation. In the wild flock birds are rarely or never alone. They
know instinctively that to be alone is to be in danger. So they stick within calling range of each other almost always.
Imagine then what your bird goes through when everyone has left the house and it is trapped alone! It calls and calls
for you -- the flock -- but no answer comes.
At PetStation, we are firm believers that pet birds (and many other types of pets that naturally derive from social
groups, including dogs) should not be kept alone, except under very unusual, positive, circumstances. It is the very
rare human partner who can allow the time and attention to a pet bird that is necessary to completely neutralize the
loneliness and boredom that is ever-present in an only bird's life.
Do you spend enough time with your only bird to keep loneliness and boredom at bay? Many otherwise well-meaning
and dutiful keepers of only birds believe that they do. But do they really? An hour a day with your bird is laughable.
Four hours a day is not enough. Eight hours might be enough... perhaps not.
See what we mean about rare exception? Who can spend even close to eight hours with their pet? Basically no one.
And, sorry, dogs, cats, aquarium fish, etc. do not qualify as competent bird-sitters. That's why another bird in the
family is called for.
The most common objection to acquiring more than one bird is that "the birds will bond to each other, and not to me."
Another objection involves the multiplication of noise factor. "My bird screams all the time... another bird screaming
would be intolerable."
31
Both of these assumptions are basically false. If the birds are acquired at different times, with each bird having the
opportunity to bond with the keeper, the birds may or may not ever bond to each other. They never have to become
best buddies to keep each other company and create a more interesting living environment.
As for noise... yes when they do engage in racous calling (birds will be birds), it will be louder. However, much of the
screaming of an only bird relates to its loneliness and boredom. With another bird around, the root problem of this
screaming is relieved, which usually results in dramatically reduced overall screaming.
At PetStation we have eight parrots... six different species... each acquired at a different time. Four out of the eight
are rescue projects. All are bonded to us. Only two are really bonded to each other... our Eclectus pair and our two
male blue-crowned conures. The others tolerate each other, more or less. They squabble a bit, but never violently,
and occasionally they will even preen each other.
Six of the eight live in the same large room, each with its own cage. We try to spend a little quality time with each bird
daily... but sometimes our schedule doesn't allow it. So the birds keep each other company. It is a nice little flock. Not
perfect, but infinitely superior to any of the birds living alone.
We have to keep our military macaw away from the other birds because he is so much larger and could do serious
damage. He is in a different room from the smaller birds, but has the company of the latest arrival to our flock, an
African Grey. The Grey was a plucker, who almost instantaneously stopped pulling out his feathers when removed
from a situation of boredom and loneliness and brought into this communal environment.
One of our blue-crowned conures was also a plucker... and a self-mutilator... as an only bird. Even though its keeper
loved it dearly, fed it well and showered it with attention when she was home... she simply wasn't home enough to
prevent the bird from slipping into a self-destructive funk. Immediately upon coming to live with us, this bird bonded
with our blue-crowned, stopped self-mutilating (though it still does a bit of feather-picking) and became a much more
happy fellow. It is one of our daily joys to watch these two play and clown with each other.
Our situation is far from unique. Many avian households around the world count more than one bird as family
members. "Parrot fever" prompts many folks to acquire three, four or more birds, often of different species. The vast
majority of these veteran bird keepers would concur that bringing in a new bird did not adversely affect their bond
with the bird kids they already had. Sometimes it can actually enhance your bond, as the birds vie with each other for
your affection.
If you are considering another bird as a companion for your only bird, please put a lot of thought into what type of bird
would be best. Yes, it's probably true that any bird is better than no bird. I'm certain our macaw would appreciate the
opportunity to watch and listen to an aviary full of finches all day rather than twiddle his toenails in abject boredom all
day by himself. Yet it is possible to use a bit of creativity to provide a more compelling and compatible partner for
your bird so that they might be able to relate in more than an across-the-room manner.
Same or ultra-close species matchups will be the most likely to produce close bonding. These pairings often produce
the most interesting and rewarding interactions between the two buddies. If you are considering a companion for your
bird, attempt to stay within the same general size and temperament realm if you want to allow your birds physical
contact with each other. For instance, our sun conure, blue-crowned conures and bronze-winged pionus get along
pretty well. Be careful of combining really disparate species where one could harm the other. Budgies and cockatiels
just don't have the weaponry to spar with larger parrots, for instance.
Introducing a new bird into your family can be tricky. Your original bird might at first resent another bird coming into
its tidy, though thin, social structure. It will likely perceive the other bird as a rival for your affection. Squabbles may
be inevitable. They probably should not physically interact for an extended period of time after they are placed in the
same room. Separate cages are a must... perhaps permanently, unless they are the same or very-close species.
32
Slowly, over a period of a few months, the birds will work out their distrust of each other, and settle into a toleration of
each other... and perhaps a friendship of some sort. This friendship can range from preening and playing with each
other, to pretty much ignoring each other when you are around to divert their attention.
Even if they do not seem to enjoy each other that much, don't assume that your two birds (or more) are not keeping
each other company when you are gone. And the more you are gone, the more important the birds are to each other.
A wonderful side effect of having more than one bird is that aspects of their personality come out that you would
never have seen if they had remained only birds. As a member of a flock, your bird may become less insecure and
more outgoing. You'll witness it interacting with the other bird in ways it could never interact with you. In short, your
bird has a chance to become more natural.
The bottom line is that pet birds are flock birds. One bird does not make a flock. Two does. With even a pseudo-flock
for security, interest and companionship, your bird will live a healthier and happier life. Isn't that a worthy goal for all
bird keepers?
33
A PARROT'S WORK IS NEVER DONE
By R.R. Holster/PetStation
Every parrot has six jobs.
Six jobs that it takes very seriously.
Six jobs that must be attended to every day.
These six jobs are to -YAP...
FLAP...
NAP...
SNAP...
CRAP...
&
CHEW!!!
The enlightened keeper likewise takes these parrot responsibilities seriously, and provides ample opportunities for
each particular duty to be fulfilled throughout the day. The keeper who has not the time, energy or patience to provide
for the parrot to fulfill its responsibilities will be severely rebuked by the bird in due course. The unenlightened keeper
will then blame the bird for the consequences.
Consider the sad tale of Mr. Q, a quiet, unassuming sort, who upon bringing his baby macaw home regaled the entire
neighborhood with a celebratory bash. Everyone attending could tell Mr. Q was quite proud of his new bird, almost as
proud, but perhaps not quite, as he was of the burled maplewood armoire that his ancestors brought with them upon
the Mayflower.
The weeks passed and the bird grew into a very large macaw. Mr. Q was very conscientious about providing his
macaw with plenty of food and water, and even the occasional bell-toy. Mr. Q's fatal error was in failing also to
provide plenty of "destroyables" for his young macaw to chew upon. One day Mr. Q opened the door to his abode
only to find the macaw sitting proudly atop a pile of sawdust and splinters that once had been the beautiful, ancient
armoire. Oh well, it was old anyway. Unfortunately, Mr. Q didn't quite perceive it that way, plunging into a deep
despair. His macaw now visits him regularly in the Mid-Counties Sanitorium, where the friendly staff always provides
plenty of wooden toys for it to chew to pieces.
Next, ponder the horror of Mrs. V, whose treasured cockatoo always let her know when it was poop time by doing a
little bend-at-the-knee thing. Mrs. V would then dutifully take the cockatoo back to the cage area to do its business.
Except for the time one evening when the ladies card club was engrossed in a particularly interesting hand. The
cockatoo, perched upon Mrs. V's shoulder, attempted to hail her attention, wiggling and waggling, but to no avail.
Mrs. V's mind was in canasta-land. It quickly returned to real-time when the cockatoo spewed forth a green and white
mess that in no way matched the front of Mrs. V's mauve blouse. Suffice to say, though memorable, the evening was
not a success.
Finally, reflect upon the dour fate of Miss F, whose motto was, "Love me, love my lovebird." It was back in 1945 that
Miss F and her lovebird, in her own words, "missed the last bus leaving." That would be the weekend her pen pal
sweetheart came a-calling. He was a G.I. coming home from the Big One, a fellow she never had actually met. But
when she opened the door to see him standing there on the porch in that big green uniform, her heart soared. He
was an ugly sort... just right for her. She invited him in and they got to know each other over glasses of lemonade. It
was love in the making. Then entered the lovebird.
34
Ever doting on her precious bird, she brought the tender thing out for her long lost sweetie to see and hold. "It's a
funny little thing," the army man said, poking fat fingers at the bird's beak. "Look at them skinny legs," the man piped,
thumping the scaly grey limbs. "Kinda pretty, but me, I prefer cats," he guffawed. At that the lovebird had had
enough, crunching the man's fleshy thumb in its beak, drawing blood and a titanic scream from the poor fellow. He
jumped up, wildly flinging his hand, but the lovebird -- parrotdom's version of the Tasmanian devil -- held on
tenaciously. The little bird only let go as the man went running out the door, hollering all the way as he passed from
view up the street and over the hill.
And that was the last time any man came courting Miss F. Already 39 when that incident occurred, she knew the bus
had left without her. Last we heard she was still going strong... but still an old maid. Good thing she has her lovebird.
So you see, parrot keepers, you'd better learn a lesson from these unfortunates who didn't keep those six jobs in
mind. You know the old saying, "A bird in the hand is worth keeping an eye on."
35
SELECTING AN AVIAN VET
By Carol Highfill
One of the most important things a bird owner does is select a veterinarian. After all, this will be the person to whom
you turn when your bird is ill or hurt or needs any number of special things to be done. You must have confidence in
your veterinarian's knowledge and techniques. And you want a vet who is available in emergencies.
Training and Qualifications - Birds are very different from other animals, such as dogs and cats. DO NOT take your
bird to a veterinarian who doesn't usually treat birds. It could mean your bird's life!
Try to find a Board-Certified Avian Veterinarian. The American Board of Veterinary Practitioners has certified these
veterinarians as Avian Practice Specialists. "Certification includes documentation of six years of significant avian
practice experience or a formal residency plus scientific papers, plus a rigorous series of examinations". Avian
veterinary medicine is relatively new and the certification requirements very time consuming. Unfortunately, as of
June 1997 there are only 59 certified avian veterinarians in the world. Most are located in the US near major cities. If
you are fortunate enough to be located near one, then give him or her strong consideration.
Many veterinarians who have expertise in and practice avian medicine are members of the Association of Avian
Veterinarians. The AAV's mission is "Advancing and Promoting Avian Medicine and Stewardship". It provides
education to members via conventions, seminars, programs, a journal, a newsletter and presentation of papers, etc.
Membership in the AAV is no guarantee of avian knowledge, but it is a positive sign.
A veterinarian may have broad knowledge of avian medicine without being a member of the AAV. It may have been
acquired through years of experience in treating birds, in reading journals and technical papers and/or by attending
conventions and seminars. Ask the veterinarian how many years s/he has treated birds, how many birds are seen in
a week and what percentage of the practice is avian.
We know of a local veterinarian who claimed knowledge of birds, but had never heard of an umbrella cockatoo. So if
you have any doubts, use some avian terms to see if they are understood.
You should also ask the veterinarian what methods are used to keep abreast of new developments in avian
medicine. This field is changing quickly, with new information replacing old myths and outdated procedures.
In the event that you cannot find an avian veterinarian within a convenient distance, select a more distant avian
veterinarian whom you can visit less frequently. Supplement this with a local veterinarian for more minor procedures
and for dire emergencies. Some non-avian veterinarians will agree to consult with your regular avian vet by phone in
an emergency and will also be happy to work with you and learn some basic avian medicine. You may have to get
creative to ensure your pet's well being.
Emergencies - Find out the veterinarian's or clinic's normal hours. In an emergency how quickly will your bird be
seen? If the vet is not available, what arrangements have been made for an alternate? If an emergency occurs after
hours or on weekends, will the veterinarian be reachable? If not, has provision for another reliable emergency service
been set up? If so, you may want to visit there as well.
Tour the Hospital or Clinic's Facilities - Are things clean? Is there a place where the veterinarian can wash and
disinfect between seeing patients? Is there equipment such as scales, incubators, brooders, heat lamps, cages, hand
feeding equipment and supplies? Is there equipment to handle surgery, such as a table, anesthesia, and other
operating equipment and recovery facilities? Is there space and cages for housing patients? Does the vet do some of
the cultures on the premises? This can give quicker results in an emergency and also keep costs down. You want to
be confident that the veterinarian is equipped to handle emergencies and that s/he is knowledgeable about treating
birds. Be aware that some veterinarians won't allow outsiders into their hospital area to protect against transmission
of disease.
36
Approach - Does the veterinarian agree with many of your beliefs about caring for birds? Does the vet believe in an
annual well bird exam, a new bird exam? Ask what is included in these exams and why. Compare the answers to
what others recommend. Articles on the New Bird Exam and the Annual Well Bird Exam by Lisa Paul DVM can be
used as samples. Is s/he open to new ideas? Does s/he believe in some of the new vaccinations? This is a
controversial subject. You want to find out if both you and the veterinarian have the same basic beliefs. If there are
differences, ask about the basis for them. You may find that you agree with the reasons for those beliefs.
Manner - Does the veterinarian seem to genuinely like birds or do you get the feeling that they are viewed as
objects? Does the vet seem open to questions? Will s/he explain the reasons for recommendations or expect you to
accept whatever s/he does? Is the vet open to the idea of a second opinion? Do you believe the vet will tell you when
s/he doesn't know something? Do you feel comfortable with, and even more important confident in, this person?
House calls - Many veterinarians will make visits to breeders. This is very convenient when there are lots of birds to
see. It minimizes the risk of transmitting disease and the problems of transporting many birds to the office or clinic.
Some vets are now making house calls for pet birds as well. If this is important to you, then ask your vet if he will do
this. Also ask what methods of decontamination s/he uses between calls to ensure that diseases are not carried from
one house call to another. Be prepared to offer your vet a place to wash and disinfect, if needed.
Fees - Ask about the fees. What is included in a well bird exam and what is the cost? Find out the fees for one or two
standard procedures in your local area and ask the vet what his fees are for these procedures. However, remember
that cheaper is not always better. A well-trained vet who provides quality care, good facilities and an adequate staff
has to cover his expenses. You just want to make sure that the fees are not outrageous.
Finding a Veterinarian - There are many ways to locate a vet. Try some of the following sources:
A list of the 59 ABVP Certified Avian Vets in the world can be found in the article "Diplomats of the American Board
of Veterinary Practitioners, Certified in Avian Practice" at http://www.birdsnways.com/articles/abvpvets.htm.
Ask for referrals from your local birds clubs, local breeders and other bird owners.
Veterinarians belonging to the AAV can be found at the Association of Avian Veterinarians website page "Search for
an AAV Vet".
A number of other sources of avian veterinarians can be found on the Internet. Lafeber provides a large list of avian
vets. The Parrot Preservation Society has a list of veterinarians recommended by other pet owners and breeders. Pet
Net Vet and Vetquest have lists of animal clinics and hospitals. The American Animal Hospital Association will give
referrals. The website addresses of all these sources can be found at the Birds n Ways Veterinary Page
http://www.birdsnways.com/birds/vets.htm.
Ask others on one of the many Internet bird mailing lists, forums or chats for recommendations.
Contact your state's Veterinary Medical Association. The Birds n Ways Veterinarians Page contains a link to a
webpage with a list of SVMA names and contact information.
You can even try the yellow pages of your phone book.
There are a lot of questions listed in this article, probably too many to ask at one time. Pick out the ones which are
most important to you and which you feel comfortable in asking. And good luck in your search!
Winged Wisdom Note: Carol Highfill and husband Ken are the owners of two conures, four umbrella cockatoos and are the creators of the
Birds n Ways, Winged Wisdom and Cockatoo Heaven web sites. Copyright © 1998 Carol Highfill and Winged Wisdom All rights reserved.
37
THE NEW BIRD EXAM
By Lisa Paul DVM
The most important part of bringing home the new avian family member is the New Bird Exam. This exam is essential
to assure the health of the new family member. If health problems are found, this will allow the options of returning
the bird to the breeder, getting the seller to cover part of the medical costs or treating the bird at the buyer's own
expense. It will also protect any current flock members from diseases being carried by the new avian addition. Never
just assume that a bird that appears healthy is healthy.
The new bird exam should consist of a complete physical exam (including weighing), a CBC, Grahm's stain, fecal
and cloacal cultures, and blood chemistries. It is a good idea to test for Psittacine Beak and Feather disease,
Polyoma, and Chlamydia (Psittacosis). Blood can be drawn for DNA sex determination as well, if desired.
The physical exam is the first step. The weight is taken to establish an initial reading. Once the weight has been
obtained, it is important to do a physical exam. During the physical exam, the veterinarian will look at the mouth,
beak, and cere to assure that the tissue there is healthy. Plaques, discharges or the presence of accumulated food
particles will be noted as indications of disease. The eyes and ears are examined to assure that they appear healthy.
The skin and feathers are examined and abnormalities will be noted on the record as well. Finally, the body is
examined, the respiratory rate is noted and the vent is examined for indications of feather matting or possible
papilloma. A complete physical exam will take only a few minutes.
During the physical exam, samples from the choanal slit (in the throat), and the cloaca can be taken for Grahm's
stain and culture. These tests will give information on the type and presence of abnormal bacteria in the digestive
tract. These can be treated for, if present, to prevent illness from occurring. Moving to a new home is a stressful time
for the new bird, and this can allow sub clinical infections to go out of control causing illness.
A CBC should be preformed as a minimum part of all exams. The CBC will look at the numbers and condition of all
cells within the blood. The CBC consists of the hematocrit (PCV); Hemoglobin (HB); Total Red blood cell count (RBC
count); and the White blood cell count (WBC count). The hematocrit is a method of measuring the mass and
indirectly the number of RBC's. A low hematocrit is an indication of anemia. The lower the number of the hematocrit,
the more severe the anemia.
The WBC count will look at the numbers and conditions of the different types of WBC's in the blood. An elevated
WBC count is an indication of infection. The different types of WBC's are looked at to help determine possible types
of infection, as well as the possible severity of the infection. Keep in mind that it is important to interpret what is going
on with the white count along with the results of the physical exam and blood chemistry tests before a true diagnosis
can be made.
The next test that needs to be done is a blood chemistry profile. The blood chemistry profile will include a number of
different tests. The exact tests run will be determined by the individual preference of your veterinarian. These tests
will often include a total protein, glucose, uric acid, AST (SGOT), and Calcium (especially for African Greys). Your
veterinarian may recommend additional tests if any of these come back outside of normal levels.
The total protein is a measure of the total amount of proteins in the serum. A decreased total protein can indicate a
chronic disease state (especially kidney or liver disease), starvation, the presence of parasites, and stress. An
increased total protein level is often seen with dehydration, infection and shock.
The glucose level is the amount of blood sugar found in the serum. Glucose levels can be decreased with liver
disease, starvation and/or malnutrition, and septicemic infections. If the glucose level drops too far, seizures and
death may occur. Increased glucose levels may be seen with diabetes, and diets too high in sugars. Some birds will
show an increased blood glucose level during the breeding season. A one-time sample of blood glucose may not be
adequate, as glucose levels can change rapidly. If an abnormal glucose level is found on tests, re-testing should be
done to confirm the abnormal result.
38
Uric Acid is a test of kidney function. Uric acid is excreted by the kidneys as a way of ridding the body of the waste
products from proteins. Increased values of uric acid indicate that the kidneys are not filtering this waste product from
the blood. The uric acid levels will also be increased in a bird that is dehydrated, and in patients with gout. Lab
sampling error can also cause a false increase in these levels as well.
AST (SGOT) is a test for liver function. Increased ALT levels may be an indication of liver disease. As liver cells die,
this enzyme is released from within them. A high level of ALT in the serum may indicate liver disease. However, this
enzyme is not specific for liver disease. It is also found in muscle tissue, with small amounts found in the brain and
kidney. Large increases in AST are usually tied to liver disease. Other enzymes that may be tested for clues on the
health of the liver include ALT (SGPT), LDH, and ALP.
Calcium is important to test for in African Greys. These birds are often deficient in calcium. If the Calcium level is too
low, bones may break as the body will remove calcium from the bones to supply its needs. Low calcium levels will
indicate the need for supplementation. You should never randomly supplement your bird with Calcium as over
supplementation may lead to serious disease.
Chylamidiosis (Psittacosis) testing is important to prevent the spread of disease to present flock or family members.
This disease is communicable to humans in the family as well as other birds. Many birds can be asymptomatic
carriers of this disease, especially if they have come from less than clean surroundings. The stress of the move to the
new home can cause shedding of the organism in the fecal material. We now have screening tests, which can detect
the presence of this disease. If present, the bird will need to be treated with a 45-day course of doxycycline.
Psittacine Beak and Feather disease (PBFD) and Polyoma are important tests to run, especially if there are any other
birds in the new home. It is extremely important to run these tests in a multi-bird situation to protect against the
spread of these diseases and the resulting heartbreak of loss of long time friends. These two diseases are very
contagious, and the new bird must be quarantined away from the rest of the flock until these tests are back.
Fecal parasite exams should also be run at the time of the new bird exam. These tests will detect the presence of
tapeworms and round worms. The presence of these parasites can lead to weight loss and general unthriftiness.
Giardia can also be detected with a fecal exam. This parasite is sometimes implicated in cases of feather picking.
If your new bird passes all of these tests, he or she is on the way to becoming a healthy and happy member of your
flock. If a disease condition is found, it can be caught and treated. If an untreatable disease is present, the current
flock members are protected from exposure. Whatever the outcome, the new bird exam gives you the information
you need to make the best possible decisions for you and your flock.
Winged Wisdom Note: Lisa lives and practices veterinary medicine in the Denver Colorado area. She graduated from
Kansas State University in 1990 and has been in Denver since. Presently, Lisa shares her life with two Congo African
Greys, a Galah (rose breasted cockatoo), a cockatiel, a dog and a cat.
Winged Wisdom Note: Lisa lives and practices veterinary medicine in the Denver Colorado area. She graduated from Kansas State University
in 1990 and has been in Denver since. Presently, Lisa shares her life with two Congo African Greys, a Galah (rose breasted cockatoo), a
cockatiel, a dog and a cat. Copyright © 1997 Lisa Paul DVM and Winged Wisdom. All rights reserved. / Email: DRLISA@aol.com
39
THE ANNUAL WELL BIRD EXAM
By Lisa Paul DVM
An annual Well Bird Exam is a very important part of monitoring the health of your flock. Birds will often show few
signs of illness in the initial stages of disease. Early signs will often be very subtle and may be easily missed. By the
time that obvious signs of illness are present (a fluffed up appearance; obvious lack of appetite; sitting on the floor of
the cage), the bird is very ill, and treatment may be difficult or be too late.
It is impossible to know the state of a bird's health unless certain tests are done. At the annual health exam,
recommended tests include a Complete Blood Count (CBC), Gram's Stain, mini-serum chemistry, weighing and a
complete physical exam. It is appropriate to test for PBFD at this time if the test has not been run previously. It is also
appropriate to vaccinate for (or booster the vaccine for) Polyoma. Now is also the time for those wing and nail trims.
The costs of these tests will vary from area to area, but the average cost seems to be between $150 and $250 (Costs
may be higher in your area).
Omitting some tests can minimize the cost of the exam. However, without at least a physical exam, Gram's stain,
CBC and mini-blood chemistry it is impossible to be sure of the exact state of health (some veterinarians may
recommend a chemistry on an every other year basis). Leaving out tests is to be carefully discussed with your
veterinarian, as important holes are left in the knowledge obtained about your bird's health.
The veterinarian will begin the annual exam with observation of the bird and the environment. The veterinarian will
assess the droppings of the bird and the behavior during this time. A healthy bird will be alert and attentive to the
activity going on within the environment. Any abnormal behaviors such as tail bobbing, fluffing, head tucking or
dropping off to sleep may indicate illness.
The next stage of the exam will include the weighing of the bird. Charting the weight gain or loss helps to evaluate
the general health of the bird as well as the nutritional status. Birds often hide illness and weight change is one of the
few methods of recognizing a problem.
Once the weight has been obtained, it is important to do a physical exam. During the physical exam, the veterinarian
will look at the mouth, beak, and cere to assure that the tissue there is healthy. Plaques, discharges or the presence
of accumulated food particles will be noted as indications of disease. The eyes and ears are examined to assure that
they appear healthy. The skin and feathers are examined and abnormalities will be noted on the record as well.
Finally, the body is examined, the areas to the right and left of the keel bone are checked to see that the bird is at a
good weight, the respiratory rate is noted and the vent is examined for indications of feather matting or possible
papilloma. A complete physical exam will take only a few minutes.
A physical exam alone will not give the veterinarian the ability to call a bird healthy or ill. The information gained in
the exam will only provide clues as to the condition of the bird. It is impossible to know what is going on internally
without doing further tests.
A CBC should be preformed as a minimum part of all exams. The CBC will look at the numbers and condition of all
cells within the blood. The CBC consists of the hematocrit (PCV), Hemoglobin (HB), Total Red blood cell count (RBC
count), and the White blood cell count (WBC count). The hematocrit is a method of measuring the mass and
indirectly the number of RBC's. A low hematocrit is an indication of anemia. The lower the number of the hematocrit,
the more severe the anemia.
The WBC count will look at the numbers and conditions of the different types of WBC's in the blood. An elevated
WBC count is an indication of infection. The different types of WBC's are looked at to help determine possible types
of infection as well as the possible severity of the infection. Keep in mind that it is important to interpret what is going
on with the white count along with the results of the physical exam and blood chemistry tests before a true diagnosis
can be made.
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The next test that needs to be done is a blood chemistry profile. The blood chemistry profile will include a number of
different tests. The exact tests run will be determined by the individual preference of your veterinarian. These tests
will often include a total protein, glucose, uric acid, AST (SGOT), and Calcium (especially for African Greys). Your
veterinarian may recommend additional tests if any of these come back outside of normal levels. The total protein is
a measure of the total amount of proteins in the serum. A decreased total protein can indicate a chronic disease state
(especially kidney or liver disease), starvation, the presence of parasites and stress. An increased total protein level
is often seen with dehydration, infection and shock.
The glucose level is the amount of blood sugar found in the serum. Glucose levels can be decreased with liver
disease, starvation and/or malnutrition and septicemic infections. If the glucose level drops too far, seizures and
death may occur. Increased glucose levels may be seen with diabetes and diets too high in sugars. Some birds will
show an increased blood glucose level during the breeding season. A one-time sample of blood glucose may not be
adequate, as glucose levels can change rapidly. If an abnormal glucose level is found on tests, re-testing should be
done to confirm the abnormal result.
Uric Acid is a test of kidney function. Uric acid is excreted by the kidneys as a way of ridding the body of the waste
products from proteins. Increased values of uric acid indicate that the kidneys are not filtering this waste product from
the blood. The uric acid levels will also be increased in a bird that is dehydrated, and in patients with gout. Lab
sampling error can also cause a false increase in these levels as well.
AST (SGOT) is a test for liver function. Increased ALT levels may be an indication of liver disease. As liver cells die,
this enzyme is released into the serum from the dying cells. A high level of ALT in the serum may indicate liver
disease. However, this enzyme is not specific for liver disease. It is also found in muscle tissue with small amounts
found in the brain and kidney. Large increases in AST are usually tied to liver disease. Other enzymes that may be
tested for clues on the health of the liver include ALT (SGPT), LDH, and ALP.
Calcium is important to test for in African Greys. These birds are often deficient in calcium. If the Calcium level is too
low, bones may break as the body will remove calcium from the bones to supply its needs. Low calcium levels will
indicate the need for supplementation. You should never randomly supplement your bird with Calcium as over
supplementation may lead to serious disease.
The Gram's Stain is the final test that should be run each year. For this test, your veterinarian will take cloacal and
choanal swabs and stain these with a special stain. These slides will then be examined under the microscope to
determine the types and numbers of bacteria present. Gram-negative rod bacteria may be agents of disease. The
presence of Gram-negative Rods may indicate the need for a bacterial culture and sensitivity so that the bacteria can
be accurately typed and the proper antibiotics determined (if needed).
The tests that we have discussed will allow you and your veterinarian to better understand and monitor your bird's
health. Baseline normals will allow you to more quickly pick up on abnormal tests. Early detection of disease through
wellness testing will allow early treatment to occur. With proper medical testing, your birds can live a longer healthier
life.
Winged Wisdom Note: Lisa lives and practices veterinary medicine in the Denver Colorado area. She graduated from Kansas State University
in 1990 and has been in Denver since. Presently, Lisa shares her life with two Congo African Greys, a Galah (rose breasted cockatoo), a
cockatiel, a dog and a cat. Copyright © 1997 Lisa Paul DVM and Winged Wisdom. All rights reserved. / Email: DRLISA@aol.com
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ABVP CERTIFIED AVIAN VETERINARIANS
An "avian veterinarian" is someone who is willing to treat birds; any veterinarian can call him/herself an avian
veterinarian. A "certified avian veterinarian" is one who has obtained certification from the American Board of
Veterinary Practitioners (ABVP) as described below.
The following list, effective July 2004, represents all of the Board-Certified Avian Practice Specialists (American
Board of Veterinary Practitioners). As of this date there are 102 certified avian veterinarians worldwide. Certification
is given by the ABVP and includes documentation of six years of significant avian practice experience or a formal
residency plus scientific papers, plus a rigorous series of examinations.
MARYLAND
Baltimore, MD ................... William A. Boyd (Pulaski Vet Clinic) ................................................................410-686-6310
Fallston, MD ...................... Donald William Zantop (Fallston Vet Clinic Inc) ..............................................410-877-1727
Westminster, MD............... Thomas P. Ryan (Feathers Scales & Tails VH) ..............................................410-876-0244
PENNSYLVANIA
Aston, PA .......................... Gloria J. Goodman (Avian & Exotic Animal Med) ............................................610-494-2811
Philadelphia, PA ................ Evelyn Ivey ......................................................................................................215-573-4368
Philadelphia, PA ................ Karen Rosenthal (U of Penn) .........................................................................215-573-8565
VIRGINIA
Fairfax, VA ........................ Rose Ann Fiskett (Potomac Valley Vet Hosp) .................................................703-425-7387
Fisherville, VA ................... William Olkowski (Cedarcrest Animal Clinic) ...................................................540-943-7577
Vienna, VA ....................... Scott Jeffrey Stahl (Stahl Exotic Animal Veterinary Services) .........................703-281-3750
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THE ASSOCIATION OF AVIAN VETERINARIANS (AAV)
There are certainly quite a number of competent/excellent avian veterinarians in North America and elsewhere who
are not yet certified. Many of these veterinarians belong to the Association of Avian Veterinarians. The Association of
Avian Veterinarians is approaching a membership of 3000 worldwide. While a veterinarian who is interested in birds
may be a member of the AAV, AAV membership only infers that an individual paid annual dues.
MARYLAND
Brookeville, MD .............................. Carol Gamble (Brookeville Animal Hospital) .....................................301-774-9698
Brookeville, MD .............................. Marcie Engel (Brookeville Animal Hospital) ......................................301-774-9698
Clarksville, MD ............................... Jennifer Ramelmeier (Avian House Calls) ........................................410-531-9213
Damascus, MD ............................... David Goodman ................................................................................ 301 253-6144
Fallston, MD ................................... Donald Zantop (Fallston Veterinary Clinic, Inc.)................................410-877-1727
Frederick, MD ................................ Adrienne Cardella (Kingsbrook Animal Hospital) ..............................301-631-6900
Gaithersburg, MD ........................... Deborah Alls-Temples (Gaithersburg Animal Hospital) ....................301-948-2828
Lutherville, MD ............................... Kenneth Volk, Jr (Lutherville Animal Hospital) ..................................410-296-7387
PENNSYLVANIA
Chester Springs, PA ....................... Peter Levin (Ludwigs Corner Veterinary Hospital) ............................610-458-8567
Gilbertsville, PA .............................. John Coniglario (Gilbertsville Veterinary Hospital) ............................610-367-4744
Glenside, PA .................................. Sheldon Gerstenfeld (Chestnut Hill Veterinary Hospital) ..................215-836-2950
Morgantown, PA ............................ Nancy Nelson (Country Companion Animal Hospital) ......................610-286-9065
Palmyra, PA .................................... Calvin Clements ................................................................................717-838-5451
Philadelphia, PA ............................. Adam Denish (Rhawnhurst Animal Hosp).........................................215-333-8888
Philadelphia, PA .............................. Brian Anmuth (Simmons Animal Hospital) ........................................215-468-2814
Pittsburg, PA ................................... David Dorn ........................................................................................412-341-3383
Pittsburg, PA ................................... Edward Bennett (All Pet Animal Hospital) .........................................724-444-6600
Trappe, PA ...................................... Cynthia Hartz (Animal Medical Center) .............................................610-489-8982
Trevose, PA ................................... Esteban Baeza (Street Road Animal Hospital) .................................215-396-4747
Wayne, PA ..................................... Len Donato (Radnor Veterinary Hospital) .........................................610-687-1550
West Chester, PA ........................... Toby Erlichman (Animal Hospital of Chester County, LLC) .............610-692-7560
VIRGINIA
Chesapeake, VA ............................. Ruth MacQueen (Midway Veterinary Hospital) .................................757-366-4050
Charlottesville, VA ........................... Chris Middleton (Village Animal Hospital) .........................................434-973-4341
Fairfax, VA ...................................... Roseann Fiskett (Potomac Valley Veterinary Hospital) ...................703-425-7387
Fairfax, VA ..................................... Sayed Masood (All Pets Vet Hospital & Avian Med Ctr) ...................703-327-6666
Fairfax, VA ..................................... Connie Kirk (Eastern Exotic Veterinary Center) ...............................703-654-3100
Purcellville, VA ................................ Valerie Campbell...............................................................................540-338-7387
Stephens City, VA ........................... Max Mandel (Stephens City Animal Hospital) ................................. 540-869-2100
Virginia Beach, VA .......................... David Morris (Virginia Beach Veterinary Hospital) ............................757-460-3308
WEST VIRGINIA
Charleston, WV .............................. Sarah Stephenson (Good Shepherd Veterinary Hospital) ................304-925-7387
24 HOUR EMERGENCY VETERINARY CLINIC
Fairfax, VA .................................... The Emergency Veterinary Clinic of Fair Oaks ............................703-591-3304
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MISCELLANEOUS
ASPCA / National Animal Poison Control Center .................................................................................888-426-4435
Please note that there is a $50 consultation fee associated with this organization.
Be A Bird Buddy:
If you are aware of individuals, pet stores or other businesses (such as hotels) that are keeping birds in unsanitary
conditions, cages that are too small or otherwise mistreating them, complain to the owner/management... and
consider reporting them to your local humane society or law enforcement officials.
Recommended Places To Purchase (Outside of the typical pet stores):
Food - We recommend to use of a pellet diet, such as Roudybush
Beaver Creek Aviary .........................................................................................................................301-797-5166
Hagerstown, MD
www.foryourbird.com
That Pet Place/That Fish Place ........................................................................................................800-786-3829
Lancaster, PA
www.thatpetplace.com
Doctors Foster & Smith ....................................................................................................................800-381-7179
www.drsfostersmith.com
Cages
The Country Roost............................................................................................................................209-536-0205
Sonora, CA
www.thecountryroost.com
Bird Cages 4 Less, Inc..................................................................................................................877-BIRDCAGE
Phoenix, AZ
www.birdcages4less.com
Bird Play Gyms
Squawk-A-Doodle .............................................................................................................................281-343-8556
Richmond, TX
www.squawkadoodle.com
Toys
www.birdtoysetc.com .......................................................................................................................800-810-9044
That Pet Place/That Fish Place ........................................................................................................800-786-3829
Lancaster, PA
www.thatpetplace.com
Doctors Foster & Smith ....................................................................................................................800-381-7179
www.drsfostersmith.com
Avian Publications (Bird Keeping, Care, Training & Breeding) .......................................... www.avianpublications.com
Bird Talk (Monthly Magazine / Extremely Informative)..............................................................................800-365-4421
Boulder, CO
fancy@neodata.com (include “BIRD TALK” in the subject line)
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CLIPPING WINGS, NAILS & BEAKS
Clipping Wings
Nothing is more beautiful than watching your bird fly. Nothing is more heartbreaking than watching it
fly outside.
Most bird owners clip wings, but some do not. It doesn't hurt the bird, nor is it cruel. It would crueler for a
predator to end up with a “snack”.
The Feathered Coop does clip the wings of our birds however, we prefer to let the babies (of all species)
learn to fly and land safely. Once they have mastered that, their wings are clipped.
We prefer to clip evenly on both sides; that way the bird can control its descent. Try clipping the first 5 flight
feathers. You don't want the bird to drop - just glide gently to the floor. Continue one feather at a time, until
the bird cannot gain altitude.
Your bird will need to be clipped again after the next molt. Be careful, sometimes those feathers can sneak
up on you. All it takes is 1 feather on each wing for a bird to be able to fly.
When clipping these flight feathers, be careful not to clip any growing feathers. You will recognize these
feathers, aka blood feathers, from the others since you can see the dark blood area in the shaft.
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Clipping Nails
Nails need to be clipped when they are uncomfortable on your skin. You can use a human nail clipper or
baby nail scissors, and take off just the tips.
All nails have a blood supply. If you nick into this blood supply or quick, have some Quik-Stop or Stay on
hand. If you do not have these commercial products on hand, flour or cornstarch will work. Apply this with
gentle pressure until the bleeding stops. Occasionally the nail gets cut too short and these products don't
work. We like to use silver nitrate sticks to stop any bleeding. They are available from your avian
veterinarian.
The proper size perch can help keep nails at the correct length. The tips of the nails should touch the
perch. You can also use a new concrete perch. Using many different size perches also helps the bird stay
comfortable since they are on their feet 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.
Keeping Beaks Trimmed
Beaks usually do not need to be trimmed, however, some do need the occasional trimming.
Keeping a mineral block or bird lava stone in the cage will assist in keeping the beak at the proper size and
shape. Toys and safe objects to chew on also help with this and prevent boredom.
If you are not quiet sure you can be your bird's barber, you can contact The Feathered Coop, an Avian Veterinarian or your local
pet store. Most will do this grooming for you for a nominal charge, and will give you hands-on experience.
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