Church of St Petroc, Bodmin Introduction The Church of St Petroc is the largest parish church in Cornwall and arguably the most important. Bodmin also had an Augustinian friary church belonging to an extensive friary complex from which only a few fragments of dressed masonry remain, but extensive foundations must survive underground. Except for a Norman north tower, the whole church was rebuilt to a single design and one phase of construction between 1469 and 1472. It may not be the earliest example of Perpendicular architecture but it is the earliest example of the creation of a church design with high parallel aisles to the full length of the building, thus creating a plan form that became the aspiration for so many parish churches, many of which had only completed part of their ambition by the time of the Reformation. Until the 19 th century there was a Norman doorway central to the west wall but this had presumably been re-used from the older church. Building Description Date The church was rebuilt to its present form between 1469 and 1472, except for its Norman tower. The upper stage of the tower was rebuilt after the spire was destroyed in 1699. There have been several restorations to the church including: 1814, 1867, 1888 and 1930. Materials The church is built from finely dressed and coursed freestone, much of which has eroded badly resulting in extensive 19th century re-facing. Granite has been used sparingly as it was a very expensive material when the church was built despite the proximity of the building to granite upland of Bodmin Moor. The plinth copings and string courses are granite as are some of the outer frames of the windows. Most of the windows have needed extensive repair and replacement of freestone components where they had become too eroded to retain. The east windows are 19th century. The roofs are dry-laid with Delabole slate from the last phase of restoration. Plan development The tower is located on higher ground at the north side of the church and may originally have been a detached tower. It is Norman but retains no obvious Norman architectural features, the small slit windows having been embellished later. Otherwise the nave and its flanking aisles were all built as one extended building phase. The chancel projects slightly at the east end. These are all of similar width and height, and chancel and its flanking aisles all under lower roofs. The south porch is, uniquely in Cornwall, three storeys and is the focal point of the south wall. There have been no later extensions. Exterior Despite much re-facing of stonework and window repairs the church makes a dramatic statement of quality and status partly due to its unusual height but also its large windows and imposing porch. All the walls are surmounted by battlements but there are no buttresses except for slender clasping buttresses to the upper stage of the tower. The windows exhibit two main types of Perpendicular tracery, the type with panelled tracery, and the more obviously Perpendicular type with vertical tracery, both types widely copied elsewhere in Cornwall at the end of the 15th century and the most Perpendicular type (north wall of north chancel aisle) until the Reformation. The porch has a moulded pointed-arch doorway with two orders of nook shafts, but with no hood-mould but there is a string course above. A 2-light window above the doorway has a square hood-mould and sunk spandrels, anticipating the Tudor style. There are similar singlelight window to the two upper floors of the return elevations, all with cinquefoil-headed lights and under round relieving arches. Located flanking the south window and centrally above is a stepped composition of statue niches. In the angle right of the porch is an octagonal stair turret. The 4-light south windows of the south aisle and south chancel aisle are identical in design with 4-centred arched heads and hood-moulds under relieving arches. The panelled tracery incorporates lozenges. There is one window left of the porch, three windows equally-spaced right of the porch and another window at far right. Central between this window and the window to its left is a priest’s doorway with 4-centred arched head and square hood-mould. The west font makes a powerful three-gable statement but was the subject of much restoration in the 19th century including the replacement of a central Norman window with a granite Tudor style doorway. Above the doorway is large 5-light window with large lozenges to its tracery. On either side of the west doorway are identical octagonal stair turrets for access to a west gallery and also perhaps to the valleys between the parallel roofs. The west window of the north aisle is a 5-light window with lozenges in the tracery at either side. The west window of the south aisle is a very large 6-light window. This is a scaled up version of the south windows and also has lozenges to its tracery. The five north windows west of the tower are similar to the windows of the south aisle. The second window from the west has its sill at a higher level due to the moulded 4-centred arched north doorway being sited under its left-hand side. The three 3-light windows east of the tower are stylistically pure Perpendicular in style. Perhaps this was the last phase of the building to be constructed. However, it is sometimes misleading to link complexity of design with date. These windows with less complex tracery are more likely to denote lower status to this part of the building. The east windows have been the subject of major restoration or reconstruction. The gables have been rebuilt. The chancel projects forward from the aisles, and has a large 5-light window within a moulded granite 4-centred arched frame. The east window of the south chancel aisle is an equally large 6-light window with granite jamb-stones. The east window of the north chancel aisle is a smaller 4-light window. Interior St Petroc’s Church has a very lofty and light interior. The building is the longest parish church in Cornwall with nine arcade bays of white granite: six to the nave and three to the chancel with no break between them except that there are chancel and chancel aisle arches springing from the piers that divide the east and west ends. The arcades are both tall and wide with standard A (Pevsner) section piers with lightly carved capitals and moulded 4-centred (or depressed 2-centred) arches. There are oak wagon roofs throughout, all with moulded ribs and purlins and carved wall-plates and bosses. The roof in the south chancel aisle is original with the date 1471 painted on. The other roofs are the result of 19th century restoration and replication Walls are plastered throughout. There is a wide doorway to the narthex under the west gallery and access to the west stair turrets. West of the south doorway is a moulded granite 4-centred arched doorway providing access to the rooms within the 3-storey porch. There is a pointed-arched doorway to the tower in the north wall. There is a piscina in the chancel and an octagonal cresset set into the south wall east of the south doorway. The porch has a stone fan-vaulted ceiling, unique in Cornwall. There is some good memorial glass including: 1859 Watkins window to north wall of north chancel aisle; the east window of the chancel, 1884 Gilbert (nee Williams); window to east end of south chancel aisle; three windows in south wall of south chancel aisle dated 1880, 1898 and 1868 in the south wall of the south chancel aisle; a window to south wall at west end of south aisle, two windows in the west end and several windows to the Duke of Cornwall’s Light Infantry. Fittings Fittings include the best Norman font in Cornwall. This has a large round bowl on a shirt shaft and busts of angels on capitals over corner shafts. The rood screen, fronting the east chancel aisles, is 19th century but contains early 16th century rood screen panels and bench ends. Some more bench ends of similar date are re-used in the choir stalls, reredos and desk. The octagonal pulpit is mentioned in 1491 but has been re-worked in the 19th century and incorporates panels from the old choir stalls in its square base. There are two c1500 painted double-sided panels from a former triptych hanging from the arcade piers west of the south doorway. These depict the ‘entry into Jerusalem’, ‘Ecce homo’, ‘Christ in limbo’ and the ‘raising of Lazarus’. Set into the south wall is a casket that is said to have once contained the bones of Saint Petroc. Monuments There is a free-standing Catecleuse stone and grey marble effigy on chest, decorated with figures of the Evangelists, plus cherubs and shields, between the chancel and north chancel aisle to Thomas Vyvyan, who died in 1533, and was the last but one prior of Bodmin (also Bishop of Megara, in Greece). This is one of the finest pre-Reformation monuments in Cornwall. There are three slate slabs: one to Richard Durant who died in 1632, another to Peter Bolt who died in 1633.depicting his two wives and thirteen children, and one to Bernard Flamank who died in 1658. There are also many wall monuments, most of them 18 th century or later including a group to the Gilbert family. Perhaps the most poignant is a large marble panelled memorial in the north wall to soldiers of the Duke of Cornwall’s Light Infantry Context The situation of the Church of St Petroc is at the north-east corner of the old town of Bodmin. East of the church is the 14th century ruin of the Chapel of St Thomas Becket, a rare 14th century building to survive in Cornwall. Adjoining the churchyard wall south of the west entrance gate, with its long flight of granite steps, is the Holy Well of St Petroc dated 1545 and altered since but on the site of a well mentioned in the 12th century ‘Life of St Petroc’. The well consists of two main parts: to the west an open sump with walls surmounted by battlements on two sides in the form of a public watering place but with iron railings on the two open sides, and with re-used grotesque gargoyle heads as spouts. A return wall on the right incorporates an opening with two turned shafts re-used as jambs. Within the churchyard is St Guron’s Well, a small dressed granite well-house possibly of 15th century origin but appears to have been totally rebuilt, and possibly re-designed, in the 19th century, but incorporating old stone fragments including a 4-centred arched doorway and with a carved panel above. It is quite common for holy wells to be constructed from a miscellany of architectural fragments left over from church repairs or demolition. Near the ‘replica’ well is an octagonal arcade pier, presumed to have come from the 14th century friary church. To the south of the church is the site of the former friary buildings, part of which is now occupied by the 18th century 3-storey Priory House. The Vicarage has a late 19th century or early 20th century character at the front but has an 18th century core. The church is built against ground sloping up to the north, adjoining sloping land that continues to rise to the edge of Bodmin Moor. The town was once the county town of Cornwall and has many important public buildings, including: the 17th century former guildhall (now a shop); 1832 former Assize Court (Shire Hall); c1840 Shire House (former judges lodgings); Bodmin Gaol (present buildings 1840s-1855); The militia buildings of the Duke of Cornwall’s Light Infantry including the Keep of 1859, and the former St Lawrence Hospital buildings from 1818. The 144 feet high obelisk, Gilbert’s Monument (to Sir Walter Raleigh Gilbert), of 1856 on a hilltop south of the town advertises Bodmin from a great distance. The Gilberts have long been a prominent family in Bodmin. Their principal residence is the fine 17th and 18th century house called Lancarffe just outside the town and they have several monuments in the church. Discussion The Church of St Petroc is considered to be an exemplar church in Cornwall, a building that inspired architectural fashion and plan form throughout the county. Because its plan form and late Gothic features were so widely copied after its construction the church at Bodmin now seems more typical. However, it was probably the first to be designed with tall aisles the full length of the church. Most parishes copied this design, usually adapting their older buildings in a piecemeal way as they could afford it, often adding only one aisle first, not always demolishing their transepts and not always adding chancel aisles. Many churches were never completed and so retain Norman north or south walls, rarely they retain both, as at Tintagel. The earlier churches were progressively made over into more modern, lighter, taller buildings, and by extension, were able to accommodate larger congregations. At the time of their reconstruction at the end of the 15th century and until work generally stopped at the time of the Reformation, the changes must have seemed awesome. There seems to have been little nostalgia or affection for the older parts of the buildings that were replaced. These were probably considered to be too poorly lit and too small. As a result of all these changes the county now has parish churches with a predominantly late 15th century or early 16th century character. The oldest surviving roofs survive from this period, all wagon roofs, and there are many other fixtures fittings that enable some visualisation of our pre-Reformation churches. In Cornwall, the church at Bodmin was probably the model from which all this frenzy of building followed.