How to plan and build a
better Fireplace
2
How to plan and build a
Better
Fireplace
o in U.S.A-
Copyright 1958 The Majestic Co., Inc.
3
CONTENTS
your guide to ideas... suggestions... details
Foreword
Appearance + Heat
7
Modern or Traditional ................................................. 9
Design + Parts
13
Fireplaces Q And A
16
Fireplace Construction
Majestic Circulator
20
Chimney design
22
Fire Building
25
Circulator Helps
29
"Radiant Blades"
31
Circulator Installation
33
More Circulators
35
Majestic Thulman......................................................
Modern Touch
58
Smoke dome
Heights + Flue Sizes...................................................
Conventional Fireplace
68
Barbecue Fireplaces
Char-Grill Accessories
75
Char-Grill Vent-Hoods
Basic Principles .........................................................
Good Foundation ........................................................
Outdoor Fireplace
93
Fireplace Units
Building instructions .................................................. 98
Dampers + Equipment
Home Conveniences
5
18
47
62
65
73
82
85
91
94
113
119
Cover photos:
Front lower left: Weldwood Walnut Paneling, product of United
States Plywood Corp
Front lower right: Pabco California Originals LinoleumFibreboard Paper Products Corp.
Back: Room by the makers of Armstrong Textille Linoleum
4
To all who delight in the cozy cheer of an open hearth fire. The
Majestic Company sincerely dedicates this book.
Like an old family friend, the fireplace is always good
company and shares many of life's most treasured memories. Alive
with merrily crackling logs, brightly blazing coals, or softly
simmering embers, it can match any human mood
An open fire kindles and sustains an air of sparkling gaiety or of
calm serenity, with equal ease. It can be the leavening for laughter
and conversation in social gatherings. It also can be the touchstone
for quiet reminiscence in relaxing solitude. Because of these subtle,
satisfying influences, the fireplace continues to hold and expand its
centuries-old popularity as the heart of the home.
Although we cling to the fireplace as a symbol of homey, oldfashioned hospitality, it no longer need be old-fashioned in its
heating ability. Until recent years, fireplaces had to depend on
radiation alone to produce heat. The results were meager, since rm»st
of the heat escaped up the chimney. Introduction of the prebuilt. allmetal fireplace unit brought about major development-; in
construction for more efficient heat output. Instead of wasting
valuable heat up the flue as conventional fireplaces do. these
modern, advanced types of fireplaces circulate most of this heat into
the home.
This is the function of the Majestic Circulator Fireplace Unit, a
metal heating chamber ready to be enclosed in the masonry. Its
operation is very similar to a gravity furnace. It circulates heat by
means of cool-air intakes and warm-air outlets. The unit is basically
simple in design, yet includes all essential operating elements.
Scientifically proportioned, it serves as an exact form for the
fireplace interior masonry. Any type of mantel exterior can be used
with the Circulator. While providing the extra dividend of more.
usable, smokefree heat, it retains the charm and attraction of an
open fire.
5
As a highly desirable home feature for family enjoyment, your
fireplace deserves special care in planning and construction This
book has been prepared with the earnest desire to be helpful to all
who select, supervise, and build fireplaces. It is YOUR
FIREPLACE Manual a practical guide to indoor fireplaces that
look attractive, work properly, and heat homes with outstanding
efficiency.
6
Now, about YOUR
FIREPLACE plans...
Proper design, not cost, is the key to a successful fireplace. It is
not the intent of this book to lay out exact plans for you to follow,
for each fireplace is an individual thing that must be designed to
fit the house. Rather, it is meant to suggest and instruct . . . to
provide you with the basic information that will help you decide
which type of fireplace will best suit your purpose and taste.
Pho'og'opH
plan for appearance
A fireplace becomes the natural center of interest in a room,
and sets the mood for decorating and furnishing. Its position in
the room is an important point to consider. Locating your fireplace
at the side of the room offers more leeway with respect to
grouping for chairs and other fireside comforts. An end position in
the room offers seclusion, and is a frequent choice. Corner
locations, especially a projecting corner, are becoming more and
more popular. Size is another important consideration. As a
general rule, a fireplace of modest size looks and works best. The
fireplace should be in proportion to the size of the room for
example, a fireplace opening 30 to 36 inches wide is usually
sufficient in a room with about 300 square feet of floor space.
7
plan for heat
Your fireplace can be more than an ornament and a social
center of attraction. It can also be an economical producer of
abundant heat to save the expense of furnace operation in chilly
fall and spring weather, or to supplement furnace heat in cold
winter months. To get the most from your fireplace as a
heating unit, a built-in Majestic Circulator will send warm air to
every corner of the room. In sizing the fireplace to the room,
remember that a small blaze in a large fireplace lacks heating
efficiency. Whatever the width, the height of the opening should be
about two-thirds to three-fourths of that dimension. Too high an
opening will cause smoking and weak draft; too small an opening
restricts the ability of the fireplace to produce heat effectively.
8
Let's get together on style
Since the mantel and
facing of your fireplace
is to be a decorative
attraction, you can use
imagination
and
ingenuity
freely
in
styling it. The only
limitation is that it retain
eye-pleasing
harmony
with the architecture and
furnishings
of
your
home. You'll be happier with the results if it does, for a beautiful
fireplace in one setting can be a monstrosity in another.
modern or traditional?
Fireplace
designs
range from the ornate
traditional to the severely
modern. However, the "inbetween" styles of simplicity and originality
have the widest popular
appeal. Two present-day
trends in fireplace design
are. first, toward more
friendly charm and less
rigid formality, and second, toward extreme simplicity, or an almost
barren modernity.
9
your fireplace decision
In making your
decision, the first step
is to compare some
existing fireplaces with
your ideas on the
subject.
Many
examples of different
designs
are
illustrated in this
book . . . perhaps one
will appeal to you or
suggest the basis for
an individual style to
match the other design features of your home.
10
11
your fireplace can radiate both charm and cheer
12
A fireplace contains these
parts.
Proper basic design is
the key to fireplace
efficiency
Successful fireplaces
must be planned right, with
each
element
correctly
proportioned in relation to
the others. When you stick to
proven structural principles,
your fireplace will give more
pleasure and more heat.
In
the
simplified
drawing, you can see the
different elements of a
fireplace. These are: ( 1 ) the
hearth with built-in ash
dump, (2) the firebox of
proper shape for reflecting
maximum heat, (3) the throat
fitted with a damper as
wide as the fireplace opening,
(4) the smoke chamber with
smoke shelf in back of the
damper, and (5) the flue that
connects to the smoke
chamber and is encased in a
masonry
chimney
of
necessary height. More than
one flue can be built into the
chimney, but each fireplace or other home facility served by the
chimney should have its own.
13
and here are the reasons
why
FLUE
The flue is a vent that carries the products of combustion out of the
house. Its size governs the volume of smoke it can handle; its height
determines the production of draft.
SMOKE CHAMBER
This is the space extending from the top of the throat, or damper,
up to the bottom of the flue, and between the side walls. Generally
triangular in shape, it serves to funnel the smoke into the smaller area
of the flue opening.
SMOKE SHELF
A horizontal shelf as wide as the throat and extending back from
the top of the throat to the line of the flue wall. It diverts downdrafts
and causes them to eddy into the rising air currents.
DAMPER
A metal frame that shapes the throat and is provided with a hinged
lid, or valve, to regulate the draft and to close the throat when the
fireplace is not in use.
FIREBOX
The chamber which actually contains the fire, constructed of
firebrick or metal, with the sides splayed and the back sloped to reflect
maximum heat into the room.
HEARTH
This is the bottom of the firebox, or the area on which the fire is
built. It should be of firebrick or other fireproof material. Its extension
into the room is also called the hearth, and should be a fireproof area
not less than the width of the fireplace opening plus 16 inches,
projecting at least 16 inches from the chimney breast.
ASH DUMP
A metal frame with a pivoted plate, located flush with the hearth
surface and usually centered towards the rear. It is a convenient means
by which ashes can be dropped into a pit below.
14
ASHPIT
An ashpit can be built into the fireplace base below the hearth to
serve as a storage place for ashes.
CLEANOUT DOOR
A necessary opening into the ashpit wall to provide a means of
cleaning out the accumulation of ashes. The door should be of metal
and should close tightly.
15
Some questions
often asked about
fireplaces...and
answers
1 - How high should a fireplace chimney be with respect
to the height of the house, and what features of design affect its
efficient operation?
ANSWER: A chimney should extend at least three feet
above flat roofs and at least two feet above the ridge of a peak or hip
roof. Solid masonry is the most commonly used material. Satisfactory
performance of a chimney flue is determined by its size, direction, shape,
height, tightness and smoothness.
2. Is there a particular kind of mortar that should be
used in fireplace construction? How is it mixed and where is it
used?
ANSWER: The brick around a fireplace and flue should be
laid with cement mortar, since it is more resistant than lime mortar to
the action of heat and flue gases. The best to use, except on firebrick,
consists of one part portland cement, one part hydrated lime, and six
parts clean sand. Firebrick is best laid in fire clay.
3. What is the purpose of a damper, and how is if constructed?
ANSWER: A damper affords a means of regulating the
draft and prevents excessive loss of heat from the room when
the fire is out. It consists of a cast-iron or steel frame with a lid hinged so
the width of the throat opening may be varied from a closed to a wideopen position.
4. What is the proper procedure for connecting the chimney to the roof so as to guard against fire, and to allow for
expansion due to temperature changes, settlement, or slight
movement of the chimney during heavy winds?
16
ANSWER: Where the chimney passes through the roof, provide
for a two-inch clearance between the wood framing and the masonry.
The chimney must be flashed and counterflashed to make its junction
with the roof watertight. Corrosion-resistant metal, such as copper,
galvanized metal, zinc, aluminum, or lead is best for the
counterfiashing. When tin is used, paint it well on both sides.
5. Is it necessary that a flue be lined, and if so, what are
the advantages in lining it?
ANSWER: Chimneys can be built without linings, but
those with linings are more efficient. When the flue is not
lined, the mortar and bricks directly exposed to the action of fuel gases
disintegrate. This disintegration and that occuring from changes in
temperature often cause cracks in the masonry, which reduces the
draft.
6. What is the proper way to build the smoke shelf?
ANSWER: The smoke shelf should be made by setting the
brickwork back at the top of the throat to the line of the flue wall for
the full width of the throat. The depth can vary from six to twelve
inches or more, depending on the depth of the fireplace.
7. Does the kind of fuel to be burned have anything to
do with the selection of a fireplace design, and does the size
of the opening affect the operation?
ANSWER When a fireplace design is being selected, the kind of
fuel to be burned should be considered; also, the design should
harmonize with the room in proportion and detail. Years ago. when
cordwood was plentiful, fireplaces seven feet wide and five feet high
were common, but they required large amounts of fuel and were often
smoky. Where cordwood is cut in half, a 30-inch width is desirable for
a fireplace, but where coal is burned, the opening can be narrower.
Thirty inches is a practical height for the fireplace where the width is
less than six feet. The higher the opening, the greater the chance of a
smoky fireplace. In general, the wider the opening the greater should
be the depth.
17
TIPS on the construction of
fireplaces that operate
efficiently
Provide adequate draft
Chimney height and flue area both have an effect on draft.
Normally adequate flue area becomes inadequate if the chimney is
too low. The flue area should be equal to 10 percent or greater of
the fireplace opening area. Increasing flue area or decreasing
opening area both tend to overcome too-low-chimney
complications.
Using a scientific ready-built inner unit
In addition to heating, the outstanding advantages of the Majestic Circulator are that it provides a masonry form for low-cost
construction as well as a fireplace whose interior parts are correctly
proportioned by fireplace experts. Yet, even the best fireplace will
not work correctly if the chimney is not properly constructed.
Relationship of parts
The size of each of the essential parts of the ordinary fireplace
depends upon the size of another component in other words, each
fireplace is an individual problem in dimensions, and should be designed by an expert. In the case of Majestic Circulators, these
dimensional problems are all solved for you in advance.
Chimneys
The fireplace flue should extend at least three feet above a flat
roof or two feet above the ridge of a hip roof. Where two flues are
built in the same chimney, the tile of one should extend 6" or 8"
above the other. A chimney cap should be used where heavy
snows or rains are normal.
Flue precautions
The flue lining must withstand rapid changes in temperature.
It should resist the acid action of flue deposits and moisture. Flue
liners of vitrified fire clay, not less than ⅝" thick, in either round or
rectangular shape, afford the best answer.
18
Moisture
It is advisable to project the flue lining about four inches above
the cap on the top course of brick, then surround it with at least
two inches of cement mortar, finished with a straight or concave
slope. This drains water from the top of the chimney, and directs
air currents upward.
19
Factory-built metal forms
assure correct proportions
Majestic CIRCULATOR FIREPLACE
Many times, problems of construction can be
completely avoided by the use of a factory-made
metal fireplace, such as this Majestic Circulator,
which incorporates properly engineered relationships of damper, smoke chamber, downdraft shelf.
and firebox. In addition, you gain the benefits of
its greater heating ability Two grille openings at
floor level draw in the room air which is heated
as it circulates inside the unit, then expelled through grilles
conveniently located according to required designs. In developing
the Circulator. Majestic has produced the finest in fireplace
equipment for the home owner who wants the very Ix-st on the
market.
Majestic SMOKE DOME
Virtually a necessity in the building of
modern multi-opening fireplaces, this
Majestic Smoke Dome affords both a
building form for the critical throat area
and an adjustable built-in damper. Its high
sloping sides and all-around lintel simplify
the erection of masonry and reduce the cost
of construction. The smooth steel sides and large throat area help to
produce the strong draft necessary to avoid smoking in fireplaces
with more than one opening.
20
21
PROPER DESIGN of
the CHIMNEY is essential for
best results from YOUR
FIREPLACE
A chimney is a necessity with any fuel-burning equipment. It
must be capable of producing and maintaining a draft to bring a
supply of fresh air to the fire. Also, it mast carry away particles
and harmful gases emitted from the burning fuel. The chimney, and
the flue within the chimney through which these gases travel, must
be carefully built to be free of fire hazards. A defective or overheated
chimney is the greatest single known cause of residential fires
MATERIALS
The common brick is suitable for chimney construction, but
firebrick should be used for the inside course, if a flue lining is not
used. Firebrick resists heat and temperature changes more readily
than ordinary brick. Stone can also be used, but the necessary
thickness of the wall often is not desirable. Concrete block can also
be used, and solid block units can be used to erect chimneys of any
size and shape. These units are sized so they combine easily with
rectangular and circular linings.
FOUNDATION
A solid concrete foundation, 36" deep and extending 6" wider
and longer than the chimney plan, is usually sufficient. Since
regional requirements differ, consult your local building code. To
determine the weight of the chimney, figure brick at 130 pounds
per cubic foot and concrete at 150 pounds per cubic foot. Figure
entire cross section cubage.
22
FLUE
The flue lining must be capable
of withstanding rapid changes in
temperature. The liner used should
be made of fire clay not less than
five-eighths of an inch thick.
Cracks or other imperfections in
any part of the section make the
whole length unfit for use.
Brickwork and mortar joints have a
tendency to disintegrate when
exposed to flue gases. This,
combined with natural weathering,
will cause cracks in the masonry,
reducing the draft and causing fire
hazards. So whenever a flue
lining is omitted, an eight-inch
thickness of masonry wall should
be used.
OPENINGS INTO CHIMNEY
Any openings in chimneys
should consist of a metal thimble
around which the brickwork is
carefully laid and cemented. Boiler
clay or putty should be used to
make
any
loose
smokepipe
connections air-tight.
23
WALL STRUCTURE
The walls of both exterior and interior chimneys without
linings, and exposed walls of exterior chimneys, must be at least
eight inches thick The walls of the interior chimney with flue
linings must be at legist four inches thick. Interior chimneys
should have eight-inch walls from below the roof to the top. Flue
linings should be separated by brick divisions or withes at least
four inches in width- The walls of stone chimneys should be at
least 12 inches thick.
CHIMNEY AND ROOF
Careful consideration should be given to the proper
connection between chimney and roof. This is one of the principal
points at which a fire can start. Therefore, at least a two-inch
clearance should be provided for between the wood framing and
the masonry. This will also allow for expansion or movement of the
chimney due to temperature changes or strong winds.
CAPPING
A chimney cap should always be provided so ;is to reduce
chimney maintenance. The top surface of the cap should slope
upwards to the flue to provide water drainage, and to deflect air
currents upward as they pass the chimney top. When a hood is
used, the area of the hood opening should be at least equal to to the
area of the flue. Concrete and brick caps are usually made four
inches thick, and it is advisable to project them an inch or two to
form a drip ledge.
24
Most fireplace owners prefer to burn logs as fuel. The use of
coal or charcoal requires the building of a wood fire to ignite it, so
most of the points given here will be of value regardless of which fuel
you prefer.
WHAT TO BURN
Dry and seasoned hardwood makes the best fuel. Logs may be split or
whole and should be from 16" to 22" in length. Soft woods burn away
too quickly, and wet green wood will give a smoldering, unsatisfactory
fire.
Don't burn scrap lumber or refuse. This sort of material is generally
so dry that it produces a great many sparks which will escape up the flue
and he a worry if not a real hazard to your neighbors and to you, if
your home has a combustible roof.
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
You should use either andirons, a bar grate, or a basket grate to hold
the logs in the proper position. Andirons are usually chosen for
decorative appearance, and some owners prefer a basket grate with
andirons set in front of it for decoration.
Whether you burn wood, charcoal, or coal, you will need a pair of
tongs, a small shovel, and a poker, since half the fun of owning a
fireplace is in "tending" the fire A hearth broom is handy for brushing up
stray ashes that spill out on the hearth extension. A wide variety of other
gadgets are available, but are more ornamental than useful.
25
SETTING THE FIRE
Place your andirons about 12" to 16" apart, equidistant from the
centerline of the hearth. Lay a
fairly generous amount of
crumpled or twisted newspaper on
the hearth between the andirons,
leaving a few convenient loose
ends for igniting. Arrange a crisscross of kindling sticks, such as
pine, on top of the paper
Now set the longest and thickest of the
logs (4" or 5" diameter) across the andirons
toward the back of the fire chamber —not
tight against the back . . leave about a halfinch space. Place a second piece, preferably a
split log. a few inches in front, then another
split log on top so as to form a sort of crude
pyramid.
The friendly home
hearth
One of the questions
most often asked b nearly
everyone who plans to
build home is: "Should I
have a fireplace1? Well,
there's no cut-and-dried
answer Different people
place different value on
fireplace utility and appeal. However one intangible quality that weighs
heavily in its favor is the friendliness of fireplace.
STARTING THE BLAZE
Before lighting the kindling, lay about a
half-sheet of newspaper on top of the logs
and set fire to it. This warms up the flue and
establishes a draft. While this piece is still
burning, light the loose ends of the kindling
paper. Close the screen and your fire is
started.
26
TO BED FOR THE NIGHT
If your fire hasn't burned itself out
by bedtime, use the tongs to stand any
un burned logs up on end in the
corners of the fireplace. In this
position they will soon burn out and
you will have some good kindling
ready for the next fire Be sure the
screen is closed to keep random sparks
and embers off the floor or rugs
A FIRE NEEDS AIR
Burning fuel in a fireplace requires a
good deal of air. Tight weatherstripping with
storm sash may not permit enough air to
enter the house to sustain the fire properly,
open a window a little way . . sometimes
leaving the door to the basement open will do the job.
Watch out for the effect of ventilating fans. Even a small kitchen
fan exhausts a good deal of air from the house. If there is no way to
replace this air. except down the chimney, your fireplace will smoke
and. in extreme cases, ashes may be drawn out (into the hearth
extension even through the closed screen.
SOME DOS AND DONTS
Don't be disappointed or impatient if the fire seems to die out in its
early stages. A first-of-the-season fire may need more kindling or
perhaps another half-sheet of newspaper burned in the flue.
Most important — let a bed of ashes accumulate under the fuel. Not
too thick — about an inch or so deep — hut spread around evenly over
the whole hearth area The ashes insulate the cold hearth and your later
fires will start much more readily
Don't try to build too big a fire. Three logs are ideal and four
should he all you will ever need for a comfortable, cozy evening. As the
top and front logs burn up. turn them around a bit with the tongs and
place a fresh log on top.
Keep your fireplace screen closed, espe- cially when leaving the
nx»m or whenever sparks might pop out unobserved to smol- der on
floor or rug.
27
warm hearth
You instantly enjoy a heart-warming glow when, on a crisp, frosty
evening, you cross the threshold of a home where the fireplace is in use.
The bright, spirited blaze on the hearth is in itself a welcome greeting.
Like the cordial words and warm smile of your host, it makes you feel
you are in a naturally friendly household.
28
Completely assembled and
ready to install
The Majestic Circulator comes to you in
one unit, entirely assembled and ready to install.
There's nothing to add; nothing to adjust. Built
right into your room, it can be decorated with
any type or style of mantel you desire. It's so
designed that it circulates warm air to all parts
of the room. Cold air is drawn in at the bottom
of the fireplace and the warm air comes out
through grilles at the top of the mantel.
There's always the chance of faulty proportioning in building a
fireplace. But with a Majestic Circulator forming the core of your
fireplace, guesswork is eliminated in the proportioning of the various
fireplace parts. Savings in time and materials quite often pay for the
cost of the Circulator itself. Except for the hearth, no firebrick is
needed. This alone results in a savings of both materials and labor.
29
This all-metal unit sends smokefree heat into one or more rooms
The Majestic Circulator Fireplace
is an all-steel prefabricated unit, built
to correct proportions, and embodying a damper and other features
necessary for perfect fireplace
operation. With simple duct work
tapped to it, the Majestic Circulator
can perform "double-duty" service by
supplying heat to adjoining.
30
Extra heating surfaces with
exclusive
Although most of us enjoy the cheery crackle of a fire on the
open hearth, few of us realize that about 90% of fireplace heat is
lost up the flue, leaving only a slight 10% to seep into the room.
This is true of ordinary fireplaces, but, in thousands of homes
today, up-the-flue heat is being converted into usable smoke-free
room heat by the use of Majestic Circulators with "Radiant
Blades."
Majestic — a leader in the field of home heating systems for
half a century has put all its "know-how" into the design and
construction of this Circulator Fireplace unit with "Radiant
Blades." These blades are metal fins welded to the back and
sides of the Circulator's firebox. Their primary function is to
provide greater heating or radiating surface — more area of metal
thus increasing the volume of warm air discharged. In addition,
the blades act as ducts or flues, directing the cool air over the back
of the firebox — the hottest part of the unit. They also stiffen
and strengthen the metal walls.
31
By actual measurement, a Circulator with Radiant Blades
makes available far more usable heat. No adjustments are ever
required, because the firebox and blades are an integral part of the
completely welded unit. There is nothing to become loose; nothing
to impair the efficiency of the unit.
32
INNER UNIT CIRCULATES FIREPLACE HEAT
34
Advantages of using
Majestic CIRCULATORS
...to make fireplaces heatproducers
Radiant heat from the fire and firebox is the only source of
warmth from an ordinary fireplace. Almost no heat is produced by air
currents. Air passes through the fire and up the chimney, carrying the
heat absorbed from the fire with it. At the same time, outside air at a
lower temperature is drawn into the room. This cold air is especially
noticeable to anyone sitting away from the fire, because heat radiation,
like light. travels in straight tines. A Majestic Circulator corrects this
problem in two important ways: 1st, it captures a part of this up-theflue heat and makes it available for use, and 2nd, it draws in the colder
air moving toward the fireplace, heats it, and gently circulates it into
the room to warm those sections not directly bathed in the radiant rays.
Tests have shown that the heated air delivered from the discharge
grilles represents a heating effect equal to that from nearly 40 square
feet of cast-iron radiation of an ordinary hot-water heating system.
Where more heat is wanted, electric fans inside the cold air grilles
change the Circulator from gravity to forced-air operation.
Heating chamber encloses unique
M
a
j
e
s
t
i
c
'
s
e
x
c
lusive Radiant Blades are welded solidly to the firebox at the sides and
back. Warmed by conduction through the metal walls, they have the
effect of greatly increasing the heating surface exposed to the air stream.
35
They also help create turbulence in the air stream that causes each
particle of air to "wipe" against the metal for more efficient heat
transfer, meanwhile guiding the air over the hottest parts of the unit.
They also strengthen the metal sides, preventing buckling and
distortion of the firebox walls.
Easy-acting built-in damper
Another Majestic Circulator feature is
the built-in damper with its ingenious
poker-operated control. It is one of the
most satisfactory improvements in
damper controls offered by any
manufacturer in many years. A simple
friction device holds the valve at any
desired position in the opening arc. The
amount of friction can be adjusted easily
at any time- The control holds the valve tightly shut, and the formed
edge of the valve, prevents warping, keeping the blade always in
alignment with the frame.
Heat can be piped to other rooms
To distribute heat to other rooms, on either the same floor or the floor
above, piping or runs can be utilized in the same manner as is done with a
warm-air furnace. For upstairs rooms, rectangular wall stacks are used,
and the registers are placed in the side walls of the room. To increase the
amount of heat delivered to these rooms, special Circulator fans may be
placed inside the cold air grilles- These fans change the operation of the
Circulator from a gravity to a forced-air type of heating unit, increasing
the distribution of heat.
Outlets handily located at sides
The Circulator is designed so that grille
openings can be arranged for any type of mantel.
The warm air outlets are in the upper front
portion of either side, and the cold air openings
are directly beneath them at the bottom of the
casing. This arrangement allows many variations
in the placement of the grilles at the front, at
the sides, or combinations of side and fronteconomically and without loss of efficiency.
36
Exclusive Angle Seals are adjustable
Majestic Circulator "Angle Seals" are a feature which assures a
neatly finished installation. For best operation and to avoid the
possibility of cracking the masonry through expansion of the steel, a
half-inch of glass fiber insulation is placed around the entire unit. At the
sides of the fireplace
opening,
where
this
insulation might protrude,
the Angle Seals adjust to
cover the gap, leaving a
neat metal trim between the
masonry face and the
Circulator.
37
A complete fireplace
installation with Majestic
Circulator
FACE OF A FIRE PLACE
38
HOW TO INSTALL a
Majestic Circulator
When installing a Majestic Circulator
Fireplace, the mason should carefully read
all the directions to be sure he understands
how the work should be done. Complete
instructions are included with each individual Circulator.
FIG.1 Plan of hearth at floor level.
First, he should inspect the Circulator to make sure the insulation
and all accessories are readily at hand. Then
he should check the dimensions of the
footing, being sure that the firebrick hearth
is perfectly level, with the ash dump
approximately in the center of the firebox
after the unit is set. The hearth should
extend beyond the sides and back of the
unit, and at least flush with the front.
FIG.2 Circulator in position on hearth.
After the Circulator has been set, and
before any brick work is started, the insulation
should be unpacked and applied around the
bottom of the Circulator. Use double
insulation at the corners and be sure the
entire unit is covered. A thin mortar applied
to the Circulator will hold the insulation in
place.
FIG.3 Adjustable angles.
Plumb the brick work against the adjustable angles at either
side of the opening so the angles will always cover the space
between the brick work and the unit.
39
By setting a few bricks, the mason can gauge the size of the
mortar joint and see that the corner breaks at the end of the brick.
If a fan is used, the conduit for a power line should be built into the
masonry. Bring the outlet boxes as near to the grille boxes as
possible for easy connection by the electrician. Always use two fans,
one in each cold air box.
If the fireplace is on an outside wall and the
provision for an outside air inlet is desired, it
will be necessary to cut an opening
approximately 16 inches wide and eight
inches high in the back of the casing; then
connect with the adjustable ventilator grate.
FIG. 4 Start of brickwork.
40
...more about Circulator
installation
N ext, the lower, or cold air grilles,
should be set in place. The masonry may
then proceed upward in the regular way.
always keeping a ½ insulation between the
Circulator and the masonry. The masonry
must support all weight of the chimney. The
Circulator is not to be used as a support for
the masonry.
FIG.. 5 Setting the lintel.
When the brick work reaches the top of
the fireplace opening, sot the angle iron lintel
to support the brick work above the
opening. The lintel should be at least 3½" by
3½" by ¼. being sure that it clears the
Circulator by ½". Pad the lintel at the ends
and back with plenty of insulation.
FIG. 6. Cover the entire
Circulator with insulation malarial.
Set the upper 1 warm air) grilles in the same manner as was
done with the cold air grilles. Finish the inside of the duct
connecting the Circulator casing with the grille frame smoothly,
but do not run the finishing coat of mortar against the Circulator
casing itself.
The height of the brickwork
comprising the face of the mantel must
be at least one inch above the top of the
housed portion of the Circulator.
When this point is reached, cover the
entire top of the Circulator with
insulation. Then set 5" by 5" by ⅜"
angle iron across the brick work to
support the masonry above, and proceed to make a tight connection to the
flue.
FIG. 7. Air inlets and outlets may be
located cither at lid* or front.
41
In building a low-type mantel, when the face of the Circulator
has been built up to the desired mantel height, drop back to where
the dome angles away from the face of the fireplace and cover the
dome with insulation material. Then apply masonry in the space
between the fireplace face and
insulation until it is flush with the
top of the face. Be sure to make a
tight joint with the flue.
Do not build a hot fire in the
fireplace until the mortar dries
thoroughly, which will probably
take two or three weeks.
FIG.8 Warm air outlets FIG.9 Schematic
may be placed above assembly of ashpit,
hearth and the
circulator
42
Double fireplace
enjoyment by this
arrangement on two floors
The arrangement of two
fireplaces on different
levels, including the use of
a cleanout door adjoining
the basement fireplace, has
become quite popular with
the trend toward basement
recreation rooms.
Often, the chimney
used for the living room
fireplace is also used for the
one in the basement, but here,
many mistakes are made as to
ventilation of both fireplaces
through the same flue, or the
unnecessary elimination of
an ashpit for the living
room fireplace.
Each fireplace should
have a separate flue. If it
becomes necessary to slope
the flue, it should not exceed
the rate of seven inches of
slope per foot of rise and
should take off from the
center of the smoke
chamber, with the entire
slope taking place above
the chamber.
43
The ashpit for the "upstairs" fireplace can be located right next to the
basement fireplace, which if properly constructed, will give the
basement fireplace the appearance of having an adjacent oven. And if
proper care is taken when removing the ashes, having the ashpit in the
basement recreation room presents no problem.
44
Choice of six Circulator
sizes
In any location where a fireplace can be
used, you can be sure there is a Majestic
Circulator Fireplace to fit your needs. An
attractive exterior can be built around any of
the different sized units to harmonize with
any architecture. Inlet cold air and outlet
warm air grilles are available, or they can be
made of wrought iron or other material,
adding ornamental value as well as utility to
this exceptionally fine unit.
When selecting the proper size Circulator,
careful consideration must be given to the
size of the room in which the fireplace is to
be located, the amount of space to be heated, the heating efficiency of
the fireplace, and the size of the flue. To insure good draft, the size of
the fireplace opening should not be more than 10 times the net inside
area of the flue.
45
Circulator Grilles
Grilles for warm and cold air
openings are available
in the pressed steel style,
finished in
antique
bronze lacquer.
NOTE: The flue should extend at least
3' above a flat roof or 2' above ridge of a
hip roof. Where two flues are built in the
same chimney, the tile of one should extend
6" or 8" above the other as they emerge from
the top of the chimney. It is also recommended
that a chimney cap be used where heavy
snows or rains are normal. Spark arrestors are
required in some areas. Check the latter with
your local building inspector.
46
Circulator Specifications
Circulator Fans
Quiet-operating, long-life electric fans that
convert the Circulator from gravity to forced-air for
greater efficiency. Two fans used, sized according to
grille size. Operate on 110 volt A.C. Shipping wt.
each, 6 lbs.
47
A completely packaged
factory-fabricated FIREPLACE
and CHIMNEY
THE
MAJESTIC
THULMAN
Fireplace and Chimney is a factoryfabricated, fully assembled, woodburning
fireplace unit that comes furnished with its
own complete chimney, including an
attractive metal simulated-brick chimneytop housing. Having all clearances built-in,
it was the first fireplace ever approved by
Underwriters’ Laboratories, Inc. as suitable
for building into construction of any
materials with zero clearance. This permits
its
installation without requiring any
masonry and simplifies installation to make
it ideally suited for either old or new
homes.
The Majestic Thulman Fireplace
consists of an aluminized steel combustion
chamber, lined along the floor with high
temperature ceramic and around the sides
and back with cast iron, and surrounded by
two air-spaced additional casings of steel.
The combustion chamber connects to the
8"- flue of a Type "L" Thulman Chimney,
and is equipped with a built-in damper.
Designed on the unique "Thermo-Siphon"
principle the casings connect to the inner
and outer ducts of the Thulman Chimney,
so that a flow of cooling air is directed
down between the inner and outer casings
and up between the inner casing and the
combustion chamber. A factory-installed
sliding screen is attached to the fireplace
front.
48
Also included with the fireplace are starter sections of stainless
steel flue, inner duct, and tapered outer duct.
MODEL L-30: This is the original Thulman Fireplace, designed
for the simplest possible installation. The fireplace opening is 30" wide
and 22" high, and the fire chamber is 18" deep. Overall casing
dimensions are 40" wide. 24" deep and 54" high. Flue is 8" in
diameter.
MODEL L-36: A larger version of this unique unit, with a
fireplace opening 36" wide and 24" high. The fire chamber is 18"
deep, and the overall casing size is 46" wide, 24" deep, and 56" high.
Easy-to-follow installation instructions are included with each unit.
Can be installed with any choice
of exterior trim.
49
Complete from trim to
chimney top
Attractive Simulated Brick Chimney Top—Choice of Colors
The installation of a Majestic Thulman
all-metal simulated-brick chimney top
housing adds greatly to the appearance of
any home. As described on Page 51. it is
available in various sizes and is for use on
the fireplace chimney alone or as a single
top fur separate chimneys for both fireplace
and furnace It is furnished in a choice of
colors: red. off-white and sun tan. It is eyeappealing and realistic in proportion and
appearance.
Black Glass or Marble Surround
To provide an attractive exterior
surround or trim highly polished black
glass or Laurelstone ⅞" thick marble
surround for either floor or raised
hearth installations is furnished in three sections. It is furnished
complete with bonding material and installation instructions This
standard assembly combined wit h a variety of adjoining wall
treatments and moldings permits many artistic, individualized
fireplaces. Of course, other surrounds, of purchaser's preference.
can be used Order glass as S-30-G for the L-30 fire place, or as S36-G for the L-36; or marble as S-30-M for the L-30 fireplace,
or S-36-M for the L-36.
Built-in Fire-Screen
Both sizes of the Thulman Fireplace come equipped with a factoryinstalled, attractive, flexible, sliding fire screen. Unit is complete, ready
for safe use.
Bar Grate Available
See Page 111 for an attractive steel bar grate to use in your
Thulman Fire place. Model BO 2-1 for the L-30 and BO-30 for the
1.36
50
For Raised Hearth
For those desiring a raised hearth, a Majestic fireproof metal hearth
accessory can be furnished for installation directly on a combustible
floor in front of the fireplace and held in place by wood moulding The
hearth is 46½ x 16¾ for the L-30 (Model H-30), and 55½” x 16¾ for
the L-36 (Model H-36) Either hearth can be covered with 4" x 4" X ½
ceramic tiles. For a raised hearth (about 16" above the floor), a metal
base with extensions to support the hearth is available as RB-30 for the
L-30 fireplace or RB36 for the L-36
51
Majestic THULMAN
Fireplace specifications
The chimney top housings
described here make possible
many different arrangements of
fireplace and chimney flues terminating in the same "double"
housing or in separate housings
(See diagram of arrangements
on
opposite
page).
Each
housing
is
available
in
simulated brick finish of offwhite, red or sun-tan color,
baked on in modern ovens for
permanence. Add the letter
"W". "R", or "T" respectively
to model numbers below for
color desired. All housings are
54" high.
STANDARD T-l HOUSING
The standard square housing
is 18" x 18" and is used for
separate fireplace and furnace
flue installations, or where it is
not feasible to locate both
chimneys together.
DELUXE T-2 HOUSING
This 18" x 36" deluxe
rectangular housing is used where
the furnace chimney is located
directly in back of the fireplace
chimney. It can also be used for
double
Thulman
Fireplace
installations—one below the other
or back-to-back—or to house a
single fireplace chimney and create
a more massive appearance.
Centerline of two chimneys should
be located 18" apart.
52
DELUXE T-4 HOUSING
A really massive chimney. 18" x 54", usable in place of any of the
other top housings but offering greater leeway in that the distance
between chimney center-lines is 36".
DELUXE T-101 HOUSING
For a more massive appearance, this 18" x 27"
rectangular housing for a single chimney is used in place of
the standard T-l housing.
DELUXE T-3 HOUSING
This is an 18" x 45" deluxe rectangular housing and can be used
in any installation where the T-l. T-101. or T-2 might apply, for a
massive appearance with only one chimney or with two chimneys
27" apart on their centerlines. It can be used where a furnace chimney
must pass up on either side of the fireplace casing.
DELUXE TOP HOUSINGS
May be installed so the long dimension is parallel with, or at right
angles to. the roof ridge. Stated distances between flue centerlines
must be maintained, if used for both furnace and fireplace chimneys.
The diagrams on opposite page show possible arrangements.
53
How to install
the Thulman
Note: These instructions are
for a raised hearth, using the raised
hearth accessory.
Step 1. Frame the opening,
preparatory
to
installing
a
Majestic Thulman Fireplace the
U/L approved unit that has built in
clearance permitting it to be butted
against combustible surround.
Step 2. Set into framed opening
the 12" high base of a Majestic
Thulman Fireplace. Note that it is
provided with brackets to support a
raised hearth.
Step 3. This shows the front
view of the opening with the
Majestic Thulman Fireplace base
set into position ready for receiving
the primary unit.
Step 4. Now place the Majestic
Thulman Fireplace on the base,
which was previously set in
position, extending behind
the
wall.
Step 5. Rear view, showing the
unit in place. Note that no other
housing or covering needs to be
placed around it — and with builtin clearances other objects or
construction can be butted against
it.
54
Step 6. You're now ready to set into place the semi-fabricated
marble or black glass facing panels, or surrounds, on a Majestic
Thulman Fireplace. Other non-combustible materials of user's
preference can be used for facing.
Step 7. Raised hearth pan is placed in position. The Majestic
Thulman Fireplace is now ready for final finish of room wall.
Note: Installation of
the complete chimney
and chimney top is
equally
simple,
especially with the
easy-to-follow
instructions that are
furnished with each
Thulman
Fireplace
package.
55
HOW TO ORDER THE
THULMAN FIREPLACE
Determine the size of the fireplace and the top housing color. For
example, a ;36" fireplace with an 18” x 30” red-finish top housing
would be ordered as anL-362R. Sections to make up the desired
chimney height areordered Nos. 82 or 83 (2' and 3' lengths) according
to Table 1. Measure the height from the bottom of the fireplace to the
roof ridge—dimension "F" in the diagram—and the proper number of
intermediate sections will be found (for any "F" dimension falling
between the minimum and maximum heights listed in the table. For
limitations of the distance of the chimney centerline from the roof
ridge, refer to the paragraph headed
"Dimension 'B'". The attractive all-metal
chimney tops described on Page 50, available
in the realistic appearing simulated-brick
finish, are available in a choice of red, suntan or off-white. The design of this top. with
its choice of sizes. permits wide flexibility in
architectural treatment and eye-appeal of the
house design.
Ordering chimney in combination with
DIMENSION "B"
Dimension “B” of all Thulman top
housings
is 54”, and
limits the
distance
“R” from the centerline of the ridge
to the centerline of the flue with a
standard height of 24” of the
chimney
top
above the ridge.
The
maximum
“R” dimension for
standard
roof
pitches is shown
in Table 2. For
rectangular top housing installations with long side of the housing at
right angles to the ridge line, the “R” dimension is measured to the
centerline of the flue farthest from the ridge. Housings higher than
standard can be furnished on special order.
56
Ordering chimney in combination with fireplace
In locating the furnace and fireplace chimneys together, the choice
of which double top housing is being used depends upon the relative
position of the furnace chimney and the fireplace chimney. See Page
50 for details. In ordering, give the position of the long dimension of
the housing in relation to the ridge line to enable the factory to ship the
proper flashing. The fireplace chimney unit does not include a 7”
chimney base or 7” telescoping pipe-a “B-1” base (which includes the
telescoping pipe) must be ordered separately for combination
installations. To order the proper number of 2’ and 3’ sections (Nos.
72 and 73) for the furnace chimney, measure the height from the
ceiling surface to
roof ridge-dimension
“A” in the diagramand refer to Table 3.
57
In searching for more striking and individual types of
fireplaces for the modern home, designers have reached back to the
most primitive eras for new ideas. From the old fire pit dug in the
middle of a native hut has come the modern room-center fireplace,
a circular or rectangular hearth which is hooded over but open to
view on all sides. Other old European peoples, such as the
Scandinavian, have contributed to the new designs in many
different forms. Instead of having one open face, in what we might
call the familiar, conventional fireplace, these modern units now
have two, three, or four sides open in an amazing number of
variations.
But with these new designs have come new problems in
construction. The fact that two or more sides are open allows
cross drafts to pass through the fireplace, a problem which can
only be overcome by creating a stronger draft up the flue. Also,
the increased area of the multi-open-ings requires an increase in
the size of the throat and in the flue area.
To answer these and other problems of construction. Majestic
has developed the universal Smoke Dome a combination building
form, throat, and damper that assures construction free from
operating complications. Where narrow or double dampers have
proved unsatisfactory, these wide and deep units provide the proper
throat area and a smooth, unobstructed dome that funnels the smoke
to the flue under most adverse conditions.
58
The high sides of the dome, sloped to exactly engineered
proportions, allow rapid laying of masonry in this important area
and save hours of the mason's time. The pivoted damper valve,
operated by pull chains with "O" and "C" pendants, gives ample
opening for full draft, holds at any degree of opening by means of a
foolproof tension bar. and closes tightly against the flanged top
when the fireplace is not in use.
In using a Majestic Smoke Dome, flue liner tiles are never
placed directly above the damper opening but are offset in any of
eight positions, as described in the installation instructions. This
provides for a smoke shelf of masonry that stops chimney
downdrafts and shunts them into the updraft area.
59
Some attractive examples of
the modern trend..
60
61
Majestic SMOKE DOME
The Only Practical Answer to Multi-Opening Fireplace
PROBLEMS
OPEN ALL AROUND
OPEN IN TWO ROOMS
Sturdy metal support posts
should be used under any
projecting
and
otherwise
unsupported corner of a
Majestic Smoke Dome. Majestic
Support Posts are of steel, with
cast-iron bearing plates top
and bottom. Model SDR-30 is
round, 23/8" in diameter.
Model SDS-30 is 2" square.
Both are 30" long and may be
cut on the job to any smaller
dimension. Longer posts, or
posts of different architectural
style or design, are in most
cases easy to obtain.
OPEN ON THREE SIDES
62
How a Majestic SMOKE
DOME is installed
Flue Size
Flue size for the ordinary
fireplace, enclosed on three
sides, can be estimated by ruleof-thumb methods as an area
proportionate to the size of the
fireplace opening.
However,
cross drafts
Pad corners with
½ glass wool
and other problems
“O” pull hangs lower than “ C”
pull when valve plate is open
ncountered in
Flue
is
offset
to
one
side
multi-opening
fireplaces
of damper opening
must be overcome by a stronger
draft, and therefore larger flues are
required. Since the fireplace opening
size can vary not only vertically and
horizontally, as in a single opening,
Smoke shelf
but also by the number of sides open
located directly
(two, three, four, or a complete circle),
below flue tile.
the flue must vary in proportion.
Suggested flue sizes for different styles
of fireplaces are listed elsewhere in
these instructions.
General
Inspect the damper, making sure the valve plate is undamaged
and free to operate, Check to see that the pull chains are securely
fastened to the valve, with the "C" pull hanging from the side that
opens above the damper body and the "O" from the valve side that
opens down into the dome. Test the tension adjusting bolt I see
diagram I and readjust if necessary for proper operation. Tighten
the nut against the tension arm to hold the tension bolt in the set
position.
63
Installation
Lay up the fireplace according to your plans until the desired
opening height is reached i see specifications). The damper is now
set in place, taking advantage of any built-up masonry sides as
supporting ledges for the damper flanges. Any projecting corner
should be supported by a suitable post of adequate strength. With
the damper perfectly level, accurately measure and cut the post to
the length needed and set in place. Now pad the corners of the
damper body with the ½” glass wool provided, and continue
laying up the masonry. Keep bricks and mortar at least ½” away
from the damper to allow for expansion and contraction of the
metal.
Smoke Shelf
The flue tile should never be set directly above the damper
opening, but should be offset to one side. A smoke shelf, horizontal
with the top of the damper, should be provided to impede and
deflect downdrafts. It should be located directly beneath the flue
tile, on any of the four sides of the damper. Actually, eight positions
for the shelf and the chimney above i t ) are available, since the
damper can be reversed. The smoke chamber above the damper and
the shelf should be generous in size, high enough not to impede the
movement of the damper valve, and should be corbelled steeply to
meet the bottom of the flue lining. For a smooth surface and better
draft, the walls should be given a coat of cement mortar. From
this point on, the mason should follow the best recommended
practices for good chimney construction.
64
Tables of opening heights
and flue sizes
Type l-Open One Side
For most fireplaces of this type, Majestic's cast or steel throat
dampers will serve efficiently. However, in cases of unusually high
or deep fireboxes, or to avoid slanting a flue, the Majestic Universal
Smoke Dome Damper provides the best answer. The tables on these
pages are based on a chimney height of 20', measured from hearth
to top of flue. Reduce opening heights 1" for each 2' drop in
chimney height.
Type 2-0pen One Side And One End
By far the most common and most popular of the modern,
specialized fireplaces, the corner fireplace is one for which the
Majestic Smoke Dome Damper is ideally suited. Requires one post
support on the projecting corner.
65
Type 3-Open 2 Sides-Ends Closed
Often used to provide a living room fireplace and a kitchen
barbecue grille in combination, this type of fireplace is rapidly
increasing in popularity in the modern, ranch-style homes.
Type 4-0pen One Side And Both Ends
Generally constructed centered on one wall or diagonally across
a corner, the opening height or the frontal width for this type of fireplace may be increased by recessing the sides into the wall.
Type 5-Open Both Sides And One End
This type of fireplace is often used as a divider between two
rooms, such as a living room and dining area. As in Type 4, a
proportionate increase in the opening height may be made by
extending one or both side walls, giving the effect of recessing the
fireplace.
66
Type 6-0pen Both Sides And Both Ends
Although the most primitive type of fireplace, this is also the
most "modem" and striking in appearance, and is now easy to
construct using the Majestic Universal Smoke Dome Damper.
Models D-26-S and D-33-S afford two sizes for round or square
hearths, and there are five additional sizes for rectangular hearths.
67
In building a successful fireplace, there are at least six things that
must receive attention. They are the flue or chimney, smoke chamber,
throat, firebox, hearth, and mantel. Of the six, the least important, from
the standpoint of construction, are the outer
hearth and mantel. To be sure, they are the parts
that give the fireplace a decorative effect; but
they are not essential to the operating efficiency
of the installation.
After the selection of the design for the
mantel, the next important step is to determine the size. Too small an opening
restricts the amount of heat thrown into the
room. The average fireplace is from 30 to 40
inches in width between the jambs. The height
of the fireplace and the depth of the fireplace
from front to back do not vary to the same
extent as the width of the fireplace. The table
on page 71 will show you the proper
proportions.
The shape of the firebox is important. Its
sides should be splayed, that is, drawn in
toward the back at an angle of about 15
degrees with the front, or about three inches
for every foot. The back of the fireplace should
be vertical for a distance of approximately ten
inches; then drawn forward to a point where
the damper rests upon the masonry. This
arrangement provides for throwing more heat
into the room.
The ash dump should be placed directly
below the fire or the inner hearth so the ashes
may be worked through it to the ashpit below.
A door to the ashpit at the level of the
basement floor will make it easy to remove
the ashes.
68
The throat of the fireplace is that
portion between the top of the
firebox and the smoke chamber. It
should always be as wide as the
fireplace is wide and from four to five
inches in depth. By the use of a
Majestic Fireplace Damper and
Throat combined, this detail of
construction is automatically and
satisfactorily taken care of, for
each damper is properly and
scientifically designed to meet the
required conditions.
The back edge of the damper
should always rest on the forward
edge of the smoke shelf. The joint
between the damper and the bottom
of the smoke shelf should be tightly
sealed with mortar so that it is
impossible for flames to get to the
flue, except through the damper
throat.
The smoke chamber is that
portion of the fireplace immediately
above the throat or damper. A great
deal of care should be used to see
that
pro[x*r
dimensions
are
maintained, that the front of the
wall is not drawn in so abruptly as
to interfere with the rising smoke,
and that all surfaces are smooth and
free from large projections.
The bottom of the smoke
chamber is called the smoke shelf
that is, the portion of the smoke
chamber between the damper or
throat and the back wall of the smoke
chamber. It is absolutely essential to provide a smoke shelf, because
in every flue there is what is known as a back draft. Back draft is
caused because the front wall of the flue is warmer than the back
wall when the fire is burning, and the gases Missing upward along
the front wall create a suction down the back wall, resulting in a
down draft of outside air. When this down draft meets the smoke
shelf, it is deflected by the damper valve plate and carried up again
with the rising gases from the fire.
The smoke shelf should be the f u l l width of the throat, never
less than eight inches deep, and it may vary from this dimension to
12 inches or more, depending upon the depth of the fireplace itself.
See illustration.
. . . see additional details on page 71
Note: For details on Majestic dampen and other equipment required for building a conventional fireplace, see Pages 111 and 112.
70
How to build a
conventional fireplace(cont.)
The flue is, of course, a very important factor. Its cross section
should be at least one-tenth of the area of the front opening of the
fireplace. A flue having an area greater than one-tenth of the area of
the finished opening is not objectionable, but one having less dooms
the fireplace to unsuccessful operation.
The flue should be lined with
a fireclay flue lining properly
bonded together and to the
masonry of the chimney. The
area of the flue should be
maintained for the entire height
of the chimney and not
contracted at the top. All turns
and bends should be as gradual
as possible, with no angle more
than 30 degrees from the vertical. And every fireplace should have
its own flue. Never connect any other heating apparatus to a
fireplace flue.
The chimney should project at least three feet above any flat
roof and two feet above the ridge of a hiproof.
71
In the table below are shown all the essential dimensions
needed in the construction of a successful fireplace. The
dimensions are worked out on a basis of the width of the fireplace
opening. Slight variations in this dimension will alter the other
dimensions somewhat, but the proportions may be easily worked
out.
72
Your fireplace plans may include a barbecue grill so that you
can enjoy those delicious charcoal-grilled meals in every season of
the year, rather than just on "picnic" days in the summer. Perhaps
you are just turning the idea over in your mind, or perhaps you are
actively planning an installation. In any case, it is a project that
will bring worlds of fun for both you and your family.
The following pages give ideas and tips on planning and
building a barbecue fireplace, either indoors or outdoors, and show
how Majestic metal units can help you by simplifying the job and
assure best results by providing a fireplace of the proper dimensions
and proportions. Included are complete plans for outdoor fireplaces
especially set up for the '"do-it-yourself" handyman.
73
74
Majestic CHAR-GRILL - the
best grill for INDOOR
INSTALLATION
Imperial Char-Grill: A new charcoal grill specially designed for
kitchen counter-top installation in wood or metal cabinets, or with
masonry surround. The simplicity of its straight-line construction
makes it easy to install, and the black-and-gold front, with stainless
steel top and sides, enhances the appearance of any decorative
scheme. The drawings on this page show only a few of the
innumerable possibilities for installation.
Special low-priced model (CHAR-GRIU "MCG"), of simplified
construction, is available for permanent masonry installation. Has the
same convenience and performance features as the Imperial and
Deluxe models.
75
Majestic’s Char-Grill is an extremely sturdy and attractive
barbecue unit, expressly designed for "built-in" use in a kitchen,
enclosed patio, or recreation room.
In us*', the heavy-gauge steel fire pan can be moved up or down
with ease by means of a crank on the front of the unit.
The stainless steel top. with chrome rod grill surface, is designed to
project ⅜" above the level and over the surround material.
76
Interior asbestos millboard insulation, coated with reflective aluminum, does away with the need for special firebrick in masonry applications. A special "Wood Installation Kit" (see below) for additional
insulation is used when the unit is installed in wood cabinets
Deluxe Model
The Deluxe Char drill has all the
features of the Imperial unit except
that the steel sides and back are finished in a velvet-black enamel. As
with the Imperial, ample grilling
surface is afforded by the 25" x 16"
two-piece chromed steel grill. The heavy-gauge steel fire pan can
easily be slipped out for cleaning through the big front access door . . .
charcoal can be lighted outdoors. if desired, then carried in and set
under the grill when it is time to barbecue
Portable, Too!
Model CGHL: Steel-and-wood
carrying handles, in attractive design,
are available for either the Deluxe or
Imperial Char grill. Easy to attach,
using the four bolts provided, the
handles add to its attractive appearance
and facilitate its use as a portable unit. Attached with the handles are
the four short (2") legs , as shown in the illustration. They are
especially convenient when the Char-Grill is used on a patio or picnic
table top. Shipping weight is 5 lbs
77
Motorized Spit
Model 100: Converts your
Char drill into an automatic
rotisserie! Spit-cooks roasts, fowl,
and other foods, up to 20 pounds
in weight. Three - position
brackets clamp with wing nuts to
ends of grill rack . . . electric
motor and spit slip easily into
place. Also fits Majestic outdoor
grills! Shipping weight 4 lbs
Wood Installation Kit
Model CGIK: Insulation
and air space are provided for
wood or other com-bustible
cabinet installations by this
handy kit. Stainless steel top
and front surrounds set off the
unit's beauty, while the steel shell, with foil-faced glass fiber
insulation, provides safety and durability. Kit fits a 36" wide cabinet
unit and weighs about 20 lbs
When CHAR-GRILL is to be used in a permanent masonry
installation, specify Model MCG.
78
CHAR-GRILL INSTALLATION
79
IN WOOD CABINETS
Installation details for a typical cabinet installation are given here,
since it would be impossible to give instructions covering all possible
variations. The simplicity of the Char-Grill installation is such that,
with a minimum of study and planning, the details given on these
pages can easily be modified to fit any individual problems or
variations.
Majestic Char-Grills are interiorly insulated on all sides with heavy
density asbestos millboard, with a reflective aluminum coating.
However, for utmost safety, a WOOD CABINET INSTALLATION KIT
should be used when the unit is installed in wood or composition
cabinets.
The unit should not hang from the counter-top surface by means of
the projecting stainless steel lips, but should rest on the insulating shim
which can be adjusted in depth so that the top fits snugly to the
surrounding surface. It should not be fastened in place, since it has
sufficient weight to maintain position, and is designed for easy
removal for cleaning.
CAUTION: A properly filtered hood to vent smoke and fumes must
be provided for indoor installations. The unit should never be operated
in a tightly closed room, since burning charcoal rapidly uses up
available oxygen. If the room is to be closed off from the rest of the
house, an exterior window or door should be opened to provide
ventilation.
80
Easy to install in masonry, if desired
Should kitchen plans or your preference call for a masonry
surround, the Char-Grill furnishes the perfect answer. No firebrick
or fireclay liner is needed, since the unit is interiorly insulated on
all sides with heavy density asbestos millboard, with a reflective
aluminum coating. The projecting stainless steel top neatly covers
the joint between masonry and unit. Any type of masonry, from
common brick to the fanciest stone, may be used.
81
CHAR-GRILL VENT-HOODS
for fast effective kitchen
ventilation
STANDARD SIZE:
The Majestic CharGrill vent-hood is made in
the standard 36" width for
easy
installation
with
regulation kitchen cabinets
and
other
equipment.
Soffits or cabinet fronts
can be built around the
top portion of the hood if
desired.
A MUST FOR
INDOOR BARBECUES
Using a charcoal grill
indoors
requires
the
installation of a specially
designed vent-hood. The
Majestic Char-Grill venthood is ideal for venting a
charcoal fire as well as for
other types of kitchen
ventilation. This highly
efficient vent-hood removes
excess fumes and heat from
cooking and adds much to
the pleasure of an indoor
barbecue.
82
COMPLETELY EQUIPPED
The hood is 32" high, 36" wide and 24" deep and is equipped with
a powerful 400 CFM (cu. ft. per min.) centrifugal twin blower, two
incandescent light sockets and separate electric switches. A featured
convenience is a 14"x21" removable, washable, aluminum filter.
Three vent-hood finishes are available: stainless steel—Black Wrinkle
enamel and Antique Copper enamel. All are of heavy gauge steel,
complete with flutter valve to prevent back draft and desi gned to
take a st andard 4x 12 to 8" round transition.
A VERSATILE VENTILATOR
Although the Majestic Char-Grill vent hood is designed primarily to
be used with Majestic Char-Grill barbecue units, its size and capacity
make it suitable for installation and use with other cooking equipment.
83
SPECIFICATIONS — Char-Grill Vent-Hoods:
STANDARD EQUIPMENT — all models:
1 —400 CFM Centrifugal twin blower, 115V, AC.
2 — incandescent light sockets.
Separate switches for blower and lights.
1 — I 4 " x 2 1 " size aluminum filter.
(All electric components are UL-listed.)
84
Some basic principles
of outdoor fireplace
construction
Until recent years, a major handicap in building an Outdoor
Fireplace was the difficulty of locating essential metal parts, such as
grilles, doors, grates, and the like. Now, metal fireplace units and
a wide variety of parts are manufactured by The Majestic
Company, Inc., of Huntington, Indiana. Your Lumber, Building
Material, or Masonry Supply Dealer will be happy to assist you in
your needs for Majestic Barbecue Equipment. Don't take
substitutes.
With these metal units, anyone can create an attractive
fireplace by using a complete unit as a building form and setting up
masonry around it. in any desired design.
First essential for a good fireplace is a strong, solid
foundation. In warm climates, where frost is not a factor, your
fireplace can be set on a firm bed of tamped ground, cinders, or
gravel. In cold climates, where deep frost occurs, your Outdoor
Fireplace should be built on either a floating slab of reinforced
concrete, or on a solid foundation of concrete or of brick or stones
set in mortar and extending 4" or 5" or more below the frost line.
You can learn the details on building a floating slab on page 90 of
this booklet. For a below-frost-line foundation, see a local
authority such as your building supply dealer.
Be sure to provide proper allowances for the metal parts of your
fireplace to expand and contract as the result of heating and
cooling. When using a Majestic Fireplace unit, this can be done by
placing sheets of corrugated paper between the sides of the unit
and the masonry. When the first fire is built, this corrugated paper
will burn away, leaving space for expansion.
85
A chimney is not always necessary. If you plan to burn only
charcoal in the fireplace, the three masonry walls around the
metal unit are all that is required. However, if either wood or coal
is the fuel to be used, the fireplace should have a chimney. It is also
wise to provide the chimney with a cap to keep out water and
possibly a screen to check flying sparks from wood fires.
It is wise to provide a means of adjusting the depth of the
firegrate beneath the grill, since a charcoal fire should be placed
much closer to the grill than a wood fire. In the Majestic metal
units, this adjustment for charcoal or wood is provided.
86
Location is IMPORTANT...
Pick a spot as near your
house as possible. Sometimes it is better to take a lesser but
closer location, rather than make long walks back and forth from
house to Cook-Nook. As a general rule, the nearer to the house, the
more often your fireplace will be used.
If a grassy lawn, flower garden, or other open site is your
choice, the Cook-Nook can be partially secluded with s k i l l f u l
garden planting. The fireplace should face the prevailing wind, and
only a low chimney t o r no chimney at a l l ) is needed.
Trees and heavy shrubbery that afford privacy, wind protection
and shade are welcome features
of an outdoor Cook-Nook.
Here, a t a l l chimney that
blends with the background of
lofty trees and carries the smoke
high overhead is desirable.
87
The wall of your house or
garage, or a garden fence, may
furnish real privacy and good
wind protection. As a rule, such
locations call for a wellconstructed chimney extending
higher
than
the
adjoining
structure in order to avoid
downdrafts.
88
Some suggestions for attractive fireplace
design:
89
— and still more suggestions
THE ARISTOCRAT
THE STREAM-LINER
Many Other Designs Available
The above designs arc typical of a wide selection of many types of
Outdoor Fireplace designs, for which complete, detailed plans may be
obtained at nominal cost from Hager Design Studio, Box 33. 3712
Halsted Road, Rockford. III. Write the studio direct, not the Majestic
Co., Inc., for details and prices.
90
How to make a good foundation
l. THE HOLE. Get the foundation
right and half your job is done. Mark
off the desired area with stakes and
string, allowing at least 1" extension
beyond desired foundation size. Dig
out this area to a depth of 10" to
12".
2. THE FORM. Build a form of l "
x 6" or wider boards. Set it in the
hole and nail to stakes at each corner.
Be sure tops of alt boards are level
and corners are square, and that the
form rises 2" to 4" above the ground
The slab may be slightly sloped for
water drainage.
3. THE BASE. Using a mixture of
sand and gravel, fill the form to about
6" from the top. Tamp until firm and
level. This will provide good drainage
beneath the slab and help prevent frost
damage.
4. THE CEMENT. Use a ready-mixed
cement or mix your own from one part
cement, three parts clean sand, and four
parts gravel. Mix the dry ingredients first
and add just enough water to make the
mixture workable.
5. THE REINFORCING. After
laying a few inches of concrete,
place a strip of heavy wire fencing
or other reinforcing material on this
layer, then fill with concrete to the
top of the form. Tie down reinforcing form with tie wires driven
into the ground to prevent floating of reinforcement.
91
6. THE FINISHING. Level the
concrete with a board long enough to
rest on the sides of the form, sawing it
back and forth. Do not remove the
wooden form for at least a week, but
your work can go on after a couple of
days.
Take time on this phase of your building and you will save
time on the rest. A sturdy, level foundation makes the whole job
progress better, look better, and last years longer by withstanding
frost damage. A foundation of this type, if not connected to any
adjoining structure, will be free to ride up and down with the
rising and falling of the earth. If your slab is exposed to the hot
sun. it should be covered with wet burlap to prevent drying out
the top too quickly. If a completely smooth concrete slab is
desired, sprinkle raw cement on the slab as it begins to "set-up."
Trowel off smoothly.
92
Make your Outdoor Fireplace easier and more
comfortable to use by building it high enough to
afford a convenient working level.
The material you choose for building sets the
style of your Outdoor Fireplace, whether dignified
and formal or rustic and informal.
Areas in contact with heat and flames
should be of fire resistant block or firebrick to
avoid damage from sudden temperature changes.
Cop the tops of fireplace walls to provide
work ing surface and to prevent water from seeping
down through the masonry.
Pave the ground area around your fireplace
with a durable material that will withstand weather
and foot traffic.
Allow for expansion and contraction of
metal parts under the effects of heat to avoid
cracking or distorting the masonry walls.
A spark arrester should be placed on the chimney a wire screen will do and a cap to keep
water out of the flue.
Waterproof the entire exterior masonry of
your fireplace, to improve its appearance and
protect it from damaging dampness. See that ash pit
area and entire slab has slight slope to front for
drainage of moisture, or back with back drain in
ashpit area.
When winter comes, warm the metal grill
with a small fire, then rub with suet for a protective
coating of grease. Clean the ashpit thoroughly, and
cover the chimney and cooking area to keep out
snow and dirt.
Keep "pointing up" breaks in mortar joints
to keep out moisture for longer life of unit.
Expansion space gap (opening between metal
unit and masonry) can be closed for neater appearance by angle irons, cut to fit by your dealer.
This covers the gap but still allows space for expansion and contraction.
93
Majestic All-metal outdoor
fireplace units
MODELS OF-38 and OF-48 These
big fireplace units have the removable
top grate in two all-bar sections, in
the tapered-and-notched design [hat
lets more direct radiation reach the
food Also available with half of the
top solid cast iron with stove lid. OK38 is 21⅛” high, 26" long. 15⅛”
wide OF-48 is 24⅝" high. 29" long.
18⅝” wide Either charcoal or wood fuel can be used Doors. door
frames, and grates are all cast iron, with heavy steel angle
frames
MODEL OF -28 U n i t Choose any
type of exterior design and material
you want to build your fireplace
around t h i s popularly priced and
sized unit. OF-28 overall size U 21⅛"
high, 26" long. I3⅛" wide. Doors, door
frames and grates are cast iron, frame is
heavy steel angles Half of cast iron top
is solid, half is made of grill bars.
Either charcoal or wood fuel can be used.
MODELS OF-3S-Sand OF-48-5
Here are the ideal units for patio or
ranch-type kitchen—inside or out side
barbecuing Suited to any preference of
design OF-38-S overall size is 21⅛
high. 26¼" wide. 16" deep. OF-48-S is
24¾" high. 29" wide, and 19" deep.
Doors and door frames are cast iron,
with heavy steel angle frames. Crates
are cast iron, with the top grate in two
sections, all bar. in Majestic's famous
tapered-and-notched design. For either
charcoal or wood fuel.
94
MODEL HD-6 Unit
Ideal for public parks or any site where
the fireplace is in steady use. Built to
provide lasting service, the unit is 27⅞"
high, 29" long, and 22¼," wide. Solid and
grill cast iron grates and heavy-duty doors
are permanently secured to guard against
theft.
FIREPLACE SPIT and SMOKE
HOOD
Handy accessories which go together,
or can be used separately. The Spit.
Model OF-234. fits Units OF-28, -W. 388. 48. and 48 S The Smoke Hood. Model
OF-49. is used on Units OF-48. 48-S only
It keeps smoke hugging food closely for
distinctive southern barbecuing
ELECTRIC MOTORIZED S P I T
Model 100. clamps to grill bars of Models OF-38, 38-S. 48.
and 48-S See page 76 (char Grill accessories) for more details.
95
. .and a wide selection of parts
T here are many ways you can vary the equipment and
design o f your Outdoor Cook-Nook by using standard metal
parts Size and complexity of the fireplace you plan will
determine the kind of top, door, grate, etc. you need to build it.
All of these parts may be bought separately. They may be used
along with the ready made units when an extra ut i l i t y feature,
such as an oven or incinerator, is desired
APPROXIMATE OVERALL DIMENSIONS
96
MODEL OF-1006-The Char-B-Q
On the Char-B-Q Girate, intense infra red rays penetrate the
meats held vertically in wire grilles beside the burning charcoal.
Gases and fumes from the fuel escape upward and cannot impair
the taste. Melting fat drips down and seals in the naturally
flavorful juices. No grease drops in the fire to cause flames and
smoke The top area can be used in brewing coffee and in ordinary
cooking and frying. It holds about 2½ pounds of commercial
charcoal or briquette—enough fuel to cook
for 10 or 12 people. Wire grilles provided
are 10½" long and 8¾ wide. The Char BQ
Grate is approximately 13" high. 11"
long. 6 ¼ wide
Completely portable, the Char B-Q has
convenient, detachable carrying handles.
Also the hand-grips on the cooking
grilles retract so that the entire unit can be
stored in a minimum of space.
97
complete
design using
MODEL OF-48
M
O
D
E
L
Here is a truly economical block fireplace for the "do-it-yourself
O
fan one that you can put together
in a few spare hours. Everything
F
you need can be purchased easily,
usually from one source such as a
local building supply dealer. 4Some dealers even feature a "kit," in
8
which all necessary materials, including the Majestic unit, are
delivered to your yard at oneM low price. For details on the Model
O
OF-48 unit, see page93. Caution:
Block sizes vary in some
D
localities be sure the blocksEyou get are the same as those listed
L
here.
O
F the blocks loose for the first course.
Before construction, lay out
Assemble the metal unit and set
4 it in place to determine the correct
width of mortar joints to use to8 provide proper space for the unit.
98
Note.
LIST OF MATERIALS
1
Model OF-48 Majestic Metal Unit
30 Full Corner Blocks 8x8x16"
14 Bull Nose Blocks 8x8x16" 7 Chimney Blocks 17x21"
2
Blocks 4x8x16"
Blocks should be fire resistant blocks.
(Plus necessary sand, gravel, and concrete for foundation, mortar,
and two 1" x 25" x 32½" cement caps. "Ready-mixed” packages are
ideal and usually sized for your requirements. Ask your material
supply dealer”
Select a suitable spot for the fireplace, giving thought to the
notes on "Location" given on page 86. Mark off the desired size
with stakes and string. The base should be at least 70" x 33", with a
projection 17" deep and 21" wide centered at the rear, for the
chimney. Follow the directions for a floating slab foundation as
listed on page 90.
Lay up chimney consisting of seven 17" x 21" chimney blocks,
including base joint Be certain chimney is plumb by using a level or
plumb bob. Using a hammer and cold-chisel, cut a smoke inlet
opening about 5 inches square, into the flue, close under top edge
of the metal fireplace unit, as illustrated, to insure best draft
conditions.
Lay out the first course of blocks as shown in Fig. 2. being
certain this course is perfectly level. The six blocks in the center
are laved on their sides to form a smooth surface for the ashpit.
Cementing this area with a rich mixture will give a smoother
cleaning area. Be sure to slope slightly to front of unit for
drainage.
99
Lay one course of blocks on each
side to begin the sides of the fireplace.
These should also be level and straight at
the outside edges. A maximum width
of nineteen inches should be maintained
in the center section. To do this, it will be
necessary to keep the mortar joints on
each side of the four inch blocks as thin
as possible
Lay two more courses of block on
each side, remembering to alternate the
vertical joints.
Now you are ready to instill the
metal fireplace unit and set the cement
caps in place. The caps may be purchased
or you can make them yourself by setting
up two 1" x 25" x 32½" wooden forms
these forms are set on tar paper on a
smooth solid surface, filled with
concrete and toweled smooth. Wire
reinforcing, such as chicken wire,
should be used in making the caps. After
hardening, they should be set in place on a
good bed of mortar.
Your fireplace is complete now, but
do not fire it until the mortar and concrete have had sufficient time to set and
harden at least two days after completion.
Use only small fires at first to cure
fireplace mortar. If desired, the masonry
may be finished in an attractive color,
using any good paint recommended for
block surfaces.
100
A complete design
Using MODEL OF-48-S
P icture this big, spacious fireplace in your favorite lawn or
garden spot with perhaps lawn chairs and picnic table nearby Jt
would provide a lot of entertainment as well as good barbecue
foods. It's a very popular design that can be built at surprisingly
little cost. And if you'd build it yourself, cost is still less. All
needed materials are available from your local building supply
dealer. See Page 93 for details on the OF-48-S Majestic Metal
Unit. Caution: Block sizes vary in some localities be sure the
blocks you get are the same as those listed here.
101
LIST OF MATERIALS
1
Model OF-48-S Majestic Unit
39
Blocks 8" x 8" x 16" (Header or Double Corner type)
14
Blocks 6" x 8" x 16"
2
Blocks 4" x 8 x 16"
13 Blocks 2" x 8 " x 16" (Note: It will be necessary for 3 of
these to be split to 2" x 6" x 16")
4 Chimney Blocks 8" x 12" (16" x 21 " overall size)
102
Blocks should be fire-resistant
blocks. (Plus necessary sad,
gravel and concrete for
foundation and mortar. “ReadyMixed” packages and ideal and
usually
sized
for
your
requirements.
Ask
your
material supply dealer.)
Select a suitable spot for
the fireplace, giving thought
to the notes on "Location"
given on page 86. Mark off
the desired size with stakes
and string. The base should
be at least 62" x 38", and
should be larger if extension
beyond the block walls is
desired. Follow the directions
for a floating slab foundation
as listed on page 90.
Lay out the first course of
blocks as shown in Fig. 1.
Then start mortaring these
blocks in place. It is probably
best to start with the center
blocks, which provide a solid
floor for the metal
unit and the ashpit area.
Be sure
that this is wide enough to
accommodate the assembled
metal unit. Cementing this
area with a rich mixture will
give a smoother cleaning area,
Be sure to slope s l i g h t l y to
front of unit for drainage.
Fig 6
H= 8x12 chimney blocks (4)
I= 8x8x16 (2)
K
2 x8 x 1 6 (2)
103
Now proceed with the construction, laying out each cours: 1 of
blocks as indicated by the drawings.
Be sure to provide proper allowance for metal parts to expand
as the result of heating. This can be accomplished by placing
sheets of corrugated paper between the metal unit and the blocks.
When the first fire is built, this corrugated paper will bum
away, leaving space for expansion. Lay the 8" x 12" (overall size
1 6 " x 2 1 " ) chimney blocks last, putting them in place with the front
sides exactly flush, vertically, with the wall that encloses the back
of the metal unit.
Now, with the Majestic metal unit installed, your fireplace is
completed. But do not fire the unit for at least two days, giving the
mortar and concrete ample time to set and harden. Use only small
fires at first to cure fireplace mortar. If desired, the masonry may
be finished in an attractive color, using any good paint or compound
recommended for block surfaces.
104
A complete design
Using MODEL OF-38
Think of the pleasant hours of fun. relaxation and good eating
an outdoor barbecue like this will bring you, your family, and your
friends. Not to speak of the extra fun. if you build it yourself! And
it costs you so little! Your local supply dealer can supply you all
the necessary materials. For details on the OF-38 Majestic unit, see
page 93. Caution: Block sizes vary in some localities be sure the
blocks you get are the same sizes as those listed here.
Not e :
Before construction, lay out the blocks loose for the first course.
Assemble the metal unit and set it in place to determine the
correct width of mortar joints to use to provide proper space for the
unit.
105
LIST OF MATERIALS
1
Model OF-38 Majestic Metal Unit
SO Blocks 8" x 8" x 16"
4
Half Blocks 8" x 8" x 8"
10
Blocks 6" x8" x 16"
3
Chimney Blocks 17"x21"
2
Wire-Reinforced Caps
Blocks should be fire-resistant block.
Select a suitable spot for the fireplace, giving thought to the
notes on "Location" given on
page 86. Mark off the
desired size with stakes and
string. The base should be
at least 66" x 33", with a
projection 17" deep and 33"
wide centered at the rear, for
the chimney. Follow the
directions for a floating slab
foundation as listed on page
90.
Plus necessary sand, gravel and concrete for foundation and
mortar. “Ready-Mixed” packages are ideal and usually sized for
your requirements. Ask your material supply dealer.)
106
Lay out the first course
of blocks as shown in Fig. 2.
Then start mortaring these
blocks in place. It is
probably best to start with
the center blocks, which
provide a solid floor for the
metal unit and the ashpit
area. Maximum width of
this area should be held as
close to 16 inches as
possible, by keeping mortar
joints thin. Be sure the first
course of blocks is perfectly
level.
Lay the second course of
6-inch
center
blocks,
alternating the vertical joints
as shown. Now finish the
second course of 8-inch
blocks on the chimney and
sides of the fireplace, again
being sure that all edges
are plumb and level.
Lay the third course of
blocks. Note that the one 6inch block used in the third
course is sot back into the
chimney area about 2'/2
inches. This is done to make
sure that its front surface is
at least 26 inches back
from the front edge of the
fireplace,
to
provide
sufficient depth for the
metal unit.
Fig.5
107
Before laying the fourth course of blocks on the chimney and
side walls, lay the last 6-inch block squarely on top of the thirdcourse 6-inch block. This will bring the wall for the back of the
metal unit even in height with the third-course of 8-inch blocks,
and will provide a proper smoke inlet to the chimney when the
chimney blocks are set on top of the fourth course of 8-inch
blocks.
Lay the 17 x 21 inch chimney blocks in place with the front
sides exactly flush, vertically, with the fronts of the two 6-inch
blocks against which the metal unit is set.
Now you are ready to install the metal fireplace unit, and set
the cement caps in place. Be sure the caps are set in a good bed
of mortar. Your fireplace is now completed, but do not fire the unit
for at least two days after completion, giving the mortar and
concrete sufficient time to set and harden.
If desired, the masonry may be finished in an attractive color, using any good paint or compound recommended for concrete or
cinderblock surfaces.
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A complete design
using MODEL OF-38-S
Growing in popularity each year, this Majestic OF-38-S Outdoor
Fireplace Unit lends itself to an extremely easy-to-construct block plan.
Wider than it is deep, it allows two people to cooperate in handling the
cooking chores. For details, see page 93. Caution: Block sizes vary in
some localities be sure the blocks you get are the same as those listed
here.
Note.
Before construction, lay out the blocks loose for the first course.
Assemble the metal unit and set it in place to determine the correct width
of mortar joints to use to provide proper space for the unit.
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LIST OF MATERIALS
1 Model OF-38-S Majestic Metal Unit 18 Blocks 8 x 8 x 1 6 "
3 Blocks 6 x 8 x 1 6 "
7 Blocks 4 x 8 x 1 6 "
4 Blocks 8 x 8 x 8
1 Block 4 x 8 x 8 "
3 Chimney Blocks 8 x 8" (16" square)
Blocks should be fire-resistant blocks.
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(Plus necessary sad, gravel and
concrete for foundation and mortar.
“Ready-mixed” packages are ideal
and usually sized for your
requirements. Ask your material
supply dealer.)
Select a suitable spot for the
fireplace, giving thought to the notes
on "Location" given on page 86.
Mark off the desired size with
stakes and string. The base should be
at least 44" x 34", and should be
larger if extension beyond the block
walls is desired. Follow the directions
for a floating slab foundation as listed
on page 90
Lay out the first course of
blocks as shown in Fig. 1. Then
start mortaring these blocks in
place. It is probably best to start
with the center blocks, which
provide a solid floor for the metal
unit and the ashpit area. Be sure
that this is wide enough to
accommodate the assembled metal
unit. Cementing this area with a
rich mixture w i l l give a smoother
cleaning area. Be sure to slope
slightly to front of unit for drainage. Also check to be sure that
the first course of blocks is perfectly level the 6-inch center
blocks will, of course, be lower
than the other blocks, as shown in
Fig. 1.
Fig. 5 F=8X8
CHIMNEY BLOCK
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Now proceed with the construction, laying out each course of blocks
as indicated by the drawings.
Be sure to provide proper allowance for metal parts to expand as
the result of heating. This can be accomplished by placing sheets of
corrugated paper between the metal unit and the blocks. When the
first fire is built, this corrugated paper will burn away, leaving space
for expansion.
Lay the 1 7 " x 2 1 " chimney blocks last, putting them in place
with the front sides exactly flush, vertically, with the wall that encloses the back of the metal unit.
Now. with the Majestic metal unit installed, your fireplace is
completed. But do not fire the unit for at least two days, giving
the mortar and concrete ample time to set and harden. Use only
small fires at first to cure fireplace mortar. If desired, the masonry
may be finished in an attractive color, using any good paint or
compound recommended for concrete or cinder block surfaces.
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Majestic Fireplace Dampers
FORMED STEEL DAMPERS
Designed to more than handle the fireplace needs, these Majestic
Steel Dampers are engineered for utmost strength and durability, and at
the same time provide exceptional features of construction and operation.
The patented Majestic poker control will withstand many years of heat
and rust without ever becoming
difficult to operate. The unbreakable
steel valve plate fits snugly to the
damper opening, closing the throat
tightly when the fireplace is not in
use.
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CAST IRON DAMPERS
Majestic Cast Dampers offer all
the outstanding features found in the
steel damper, and are recommended
where exceptional durability rather
than cost is the major factor. The
valve on this damper is made of
unbreakable steel, carefully fitted to
the cast body for tight closure.
Majestic's
easy-operating
poker
control is standard equipment on
these dampers, but a rotary face
control, not available on the steel
damper, can also be provided.
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...and Fireplace Equipment
CLEANOUT DOORS
Formed Steel — Nos
80 R and 128 have tight fitting
doors strengthened by formed
shape. Mortar locks for
anchorage Green enamel finish
Cast Iron — Nos. 88 and 812 are cast with an attractive
wrinkle pattern Furnished w i t h anchor arms.
Finished with as phaltum paint
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COAL-n-WOOD BASKET GRATES
Majesties Basket Grates
are designed especially for
the Circulator Fireplace, but
can he used with good results
in any fireplace. The sturdy
Cast-iron Grate has end
sections securely held in slots
for coal or easily removed for
wood burning The attractive
Steel (irate is for wood only,
and is made of curved, ⅝ "
square steel bars, solidly
welded into a single, strong
unit and finished in velvet
black. Hither grate will give
years of service.
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Majestic
THE KEY TO THE HOME
DISPOSAL PROBLEM
"Supreme" Series Incinerators
Gets rid of burnable trash and
garbage right in the home, in utility
room, basement, kitchen or garage. The
Majestic Supreme smokeless, odorless
gas incinerator complies with codes of
the various localities. Automatic controls
and toe-tip lid lifter. Beautifully styled
with white baked enamel finish, genuine
porcelain enamel top. chrome trim and
back panel Thoroughly safety-tested and
approved for home use by the American
Gas Association and the Underwriters
Laboratories.
"Imperial" Series Incinerators
Gas, electric and fuelless models,
beautifully designed and scientifically
engineered for complete disposal of
home refuse. Though less expensive and
of simpler design than the Supreme, the
highly efficient Imperial has the same
convenience features. Distinctive styling,
gleaming white enamel finish with gold
and chrome trim.
Majestic "Custom" Series
Incinerators
Gas, electric and fuelless models
with the same modern features as the
Imperial series. Citron yellow enamel
finish with ice blue and chrome trim.
Manually operated loading door and
controls.
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Majestic "Deluxe" Series Incinerators
Three economy models—gas, electric and fuelless. Smart, smokegrey enamel finish with chrome trim. Employs Majestic's exclusive
principles of stepped-up combustion. Loading door and controls are
manually operated.
Majestic Refuse Burners
Two units — the two-bushel Model 2 and the three-bushel Model
30 — that utilize the waste itself as fuel! Designed primarily for
basement installation, where local codes permit fuelless units, these
big capacity units are the perfect answer to the trash and garbage
disposal problem. Also Model 2000, an outdoor trash burner of
aluminized steel with cast iron top. that burns all yard and household
trash easily and completely.
Majestic Underground Receiver
The hidden container that does away with garbage can or trash pile
clutter and mess. Only the neat lid shows above ground. Big inner
receiver holds rubbish safety from marauding animals and insects;
keeps your yard neat and sanitary. Can he installed right by the kitchen
door, saving steps and backyard trips.
118
Other Majestic Products
F orced Air Heating Equipment
Majestic has been known for 50
years for quality heating equipment.
The Majestic present day line of gas
or oil fired winter air-conditioners
is designed to allow virtually
unlimited choice of placement and
system arrangement for small or
large homes There are models from
Tfi.000 to 400.000 BTU out put in
up. down or horizontal
flow
design.
Summer Air Conditioning
In summer air conditioning.
Majestic has the ideal, economical
answer for every home need — 2. 3 or 5 ton self-contained water
cooled units or remote air-cooled models, in matching twin units or for
add-on installations. These units are built to Majestic high quality,
designed for simplified installation and dependable operation. Through
constant research the Majestic line is always to the "last-word" in
engineering design
119
Majestic THULMAN
Chimney
Majestic also manufactures the Thulman
Chimney. which is built on the same ThermoSiphon principle of design as the Thulman
Fireplace described on pages 47 to 57. It is an allmetal factory-fabricated chimney complete with
simulated brick chimney top in various sizes
Approved by underwriters' laboratories. Inc. for
zero clearance installations for using all fuels.
N
OTE: Place all orders for Majestic Products through your nearest
Majestic dealer. If you do not know his name, write The Majestic
Co., Inc., Huntington, Indiana.
120
Since 1907—
Majestic
Quality
Products have been made
in Huntineton. Indiana.
where these two plants are
located.