Textiles
There are sixteen artefacts under the category of Burmese textiles in the
collection. The textiles have been re-accessioned and information about the
donor and provenance are not available. This is due to the fact that records
pertaining to the original accession of the objects have been misled. The
textiles are representative of tribal wear, and appear to be area specific,
notably sharing similarity with textiles from the Kachin State. Burma is
characterised by a diversity of upland and lowland tribal groups, each with its
own set of traditions, history and social structure. Often textiles and dress are
considered to be one of the most noticeable visual components of cultural
differences, and therefore people are often ‘squeezed into ethnic pigeonholes’
(Dell 2003:11). Significantly, in Southeast Asia where borders are only
recognised by those who originally imposed them, i.e. the colonialists, the
tribal groups are more fluid and transient in their movements, thoughts and
cultural exchange. Therefore, it should be noted that textiles can be subject
to ‘cultural and political manipulation’ and although some traditions are fixed
this should and has been taken into account whilst researching the textiles
(Dell 2003:11).
The Burmese Textiles
The sixteen textiles have been further broken down into specific categories
according to form or function. They are as follows:
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Lhaovo (Maru) Jackets, Accession Numbers - 106.2000.9 and 106.2000.8
Lisu Wedding Outfit, Accession Numbers – 106.2000.7/ 106.2000.4.1/
106.2005.a/ 106.2000.2 / 106.2000.6
Other outfits, Accession Numbers – 106.2000.10 / 106.2000.1.2. /
106.2000.11 /
Bags, Accession Numbers – 106.2000.16 / 1938.38 / Box 4, Burma Box 57
Miscellaneous, Accession Numbers – Hat 106.2000.18 / Indigo Jacket
106.2000.3 / Belt 149.2000.1
Kachin Lhaovo (Maru) Jackets
106.2000.8 - Jacket
The upper body and sleeves of this thickly woven jacket are grey with a
pinstripe produced using true indigo. The lower part of the jacket is red
thread, which could be dyed dog’s hair or goat’s hair. The jacket is made
using supplementary weft technique. As the donor information is unavailable
for this jacket, details of its exact provenance are unknown. However,
research conducted by Hkanhpa Tu Sadan on a similar jacket in the James
Green Collection at the Royal Pavilions, Brighton Museum (WA507425)
suggests that it is similar to the traditional Lhaovo style jacket as can be seen
in Greens photo A0096, of a Lhaovo (Maru) elder with a spear. He also
noted that the jacket, which was purchased during fieldwork in Myitkyina in
1996, at the time was estimated to be more than 150 years old. The Kachin
Lhaovo (Maru) tribe are found in the Nmai region, of the North-eastern Kachin
State. This information is documented in the ‘Kachin Textiles at Brighton
Museum Report’ currently held at the museum, and can also be viewed in the
book ‘Textiles from Burma’ (Dell 2003:22). Another example similar to jacket
106.2000.8 can also be found in the Burmese textile collection at the Victoria
and Albert Museum in London.
An image of this jacket (106.2000.8) was also viewed by Dr Sandra Dudley at
the University of Leicester. Dr. Dudley suggests that ‘it is a woman’s jacket, is
relatively rare, and constitutes a lot of fine work….they would have probably
belonged to someone of relatively high status amongst the Maru. As to
ceremonial or other roles played by the jackets, they would have been worn
on an everyday basis – but also at ceremonial times – by their owners’ (Pers.
Comm. 2005).
106.2000.9 - Jacket
The upper body and sleeves of this jacket is dyed true indigo cotton. The
lower part jacket is dyed red dog’s hair or goat’s hair. Below the cross seam
the jacket is edged with vertical blue and yellow zigzags, whilst the edge of
the actual jacket is piped with white tape. As the donor information is
unavailable for this jacket, details of its exact provenance are unknown.
However, an almost identical jacket (1934.81.95) is documented in the Pitt
Rivers Museum Collection as being Kachin Lhaovo (Maru), Ngawchang
Valley, Lower Nmai River, Kachin State. Dr Dudley notes that the Pitt River
jacket was documented by James Henry Green as ‘very scarce at the time of
collection in the 1920’s’. An example of this jacket is documented in ‘Textiles
from Burma’ (Dell 2003:21). Photographic evidence of a similar jacket is also
documented in the James Henry Green Collection – A0096.
Information that has been collated about the Kachin Lhaovo (Maru) jackets
highlights the significance of these textiles. They have been described as
rare and scarce, and Dr Dudley described them as ‘special jackets and it is
exciting for me to know that the RAMM has them’ (Pers. Comm. 2005). Their
contribution to the Burmese collection at Exeter, and the understanding of
Burmese textiles as a whole cannot be understated.
Lisu Wedding Outfit
106.2000.7 - Jacket
The front of this indigo coloured jacket is waist length and the back is full
length. The jacket has alternating yellow and red panelling down the front,
and along the back hem. The sleeves and collar are edged with red lengths
of cloth. As the donor information is unavailable for this jacket, details of its
exact provenance are unknown. However, research indicates that this type of
jacket is part of an outfit worn by the Lisu women, (Kachin state) for special
occasions and weddings. It is worn in association with
106.2000.5/106.2000.6/106.2000.4.1/106.2000.2. A modern version of this
traditional outfit was commissioned in 2001 on behalf of the James Green
Charitable Trust, Brighton, and made by Hkaw Ma Sar and Hkaw Ma Le, in
Myitkyina, Kachin State. It incorporates the indigo jacket with yellow and red
panelling (www.virtualmuseum.info/collections - WA508729). Whilst
researching material at the V & A Museum, London, a reproduction postcard
was found documenting the front and side view of two Yawyin or Lissyu (Lisu)
women wearing gala attire. Although the postcard is in black and white, the
different textile components of the Lisu outfit can be clearly seen. Further
photographic material documenting ethnographic evidence of these textiles is
observed by Diran in his publication, ‘The Vanishing Tribes of Burma’ where
photographs of the outfits were taken during New Year Celebrations, ‘when
village girls wear their finest costumes and jewellery to catch the eye of
potential husbands’ (1997:64). The jacket when worn together with the head
cloth, apron, belt and leggings, form an original outfit that is significant in
terms of Burmese textile collections.
106.2000.4.1 – Leggings
These are a pair of leggings composed of yellow, red and white panels
trimmed with a blue edge. They are worn by women as part of a Lisu outfit
worn on special occasions or for weddings. They are worn in association with
106.2000.5/106.2000.6/106.2000.2/106.2000.7. As the donor information is
unavailable for these leggings, details of its exact provenance are unknown.
The Reverend C. Gilhodes notes that the leggings are called ‘shitups’ and that
the space below the knee is adorned ‘ with an amount of small circles made of
cane and painted black, then, add leggings’ (1922:149). Again the leggings
can clearly be observed in the reproduction postcard from the V & A collection
‘Lissyu women in gala attire’. A modern example was also commissioned in
2001 on behalf of the James Green Charitable Trust, Brighton (WA508730).
106.2005.5 – Head Cloth
The head cloth is composed of an indigo coloured central panel bordered by
yellow, red and white vertical strip of cloth. Both ends of the cloth are finished
with cord and thick red tassels. The textile acts as a headdress and forms
part of a Lisu women’s outfit worn for special occasions or weddings. It is
worn in association with 106.2000.6/106.2000.2/106.2000.41/106.2000/7. As
the donor information is unavailable for this head cloth, details of its exact
provenance are unknown. The head cloth can clearly be observed in the
reproduction postcard from the V & A collection ‘Lissyu women in gala attire’.
A modern example was also commissioned in 2001 on behalf of the James
Green Charitable Trust, Brighton (WA508733). A very clear photographic
example is also documented in ‘The Vanishing Tribes of Burma’ (Diran 1997:
65).
106.2000.2 – Double Apron
This textile is a double apron composed of indigo cloth, edged with cream
fabric (possibly hemp), with traces of pink dye. A panel of light blue cloth
borders the bottom of the panel, above which are situated a row of cowrie
shells. The apron is made out of a combination of patches of cloth and wool
threads of different colours. As the donor information is unavailable for this
apron, details of its exact provenance are unknown. However, a row of small
white ceramic buttons are also used to decorate the apron, which is a feature
commonly used amongst Lisu women from the Putao area, Kachin State.
Usually, the apron would be worn in association with 106.2000.5, 106.2000.6,
106.2000.4.1 and 106.2000.7, either at a wedding or for a special occasion.
A modern example of the skirt in longer fashion can be seen at the James
Green Centre, Brighton Museum: www.virtualmuseum.info/collections 340294.
However, photographic evidence from the James Green Collection also
reveals an example of the skirt being worn by a member of a Lisu family on as
everyday wear: see image 0521.
106.2000.6 – Belt
This cream coloured belt is made of a woven strip of textile and decorated
with wool thread. There are pink and blue cords to fasten the belt, which end
in a bundle of coloured wool threads. As the donor information is unavailable
for this jacket, details of its exact provenance are unknown, however the belt
forms part of a Lisu women’s outfit worn for special occasions or weddings
with the other following components: 106.2000.5, 106.2000.2, 106.2000.4.1
and 106.2000.7. A modern version of this belt can be found at the James
Green Centre, Brighton: WA508732.
The combination of the jacket, leggings, head cloth, double apron and belt,
make this Lisu outfit an important asset to the Burmese textile collection.
Although a modern example of the same outfit was commissioned by
Brighton, RAMM has a unique original example of what the Lisu women would
have worn, which for research purposes can be utilised in comparison with
the modern outfits that the Lisu wear today.
Other Outfits
106.2000.10 – Jacket
The front of this true indigo jacket is waist length, with no decoration. The
back of the jacket is full length. The sleeves are pink, and white coloured with
a thin strip of indigo cloth decorated with a flower print (almost in batik style).
On the back of the jacket the lower part of the textile is decorated with
alternating panels of brown, pink, and cream cloth interspersed with strips of
indigo cloth decorated with the flower print. As the donor information is
unavailable for this jacket, details of its exact provenance are unknown,
however, it was collected by the same person who donated the Lisu woman’s
jacket worn for special occasions or weddings (106.2000.7). Although the
decoration and colour of panelled strips are different to 106.2000.7, the
design of the jacket is exactly the same. Initially, the batik style flower print is
distracting as it does not appear to be typically tribal however research into
photographic evidence at the James Green Centre, Brighton, has revealed a
photo of a young girl wearing a skirt with the very same pattern – photo 0302.
Therefore, it is proposed that this jacket is a variation of a theme of a Lisu
woman’s outfit. Further research would, however, clarify this matter.
106.2000.1.2 – Leggings
A pair of leggings made out of four panels of varying cloth and colour: true
indigo, red, cream, and a flowery motif in the batik style. This type of legging
is worn by a woman, and forms part of an outfit as seen in the Lisu woman’s
outfit. As the donor information is unavailable for this jacket, details of its
exact provenance are unknown. However, bearing the flowery motif in the
batik style, it may be concluded that these leggings would have been worn in
association with jacket 106.2000.10, and that they resemble the same design
elements of the Lisu woman’s outfit, even though the decoration is different.
106.2000.11 – Jacket
The front of this true indigo dyed jacket is waist length, and the back is full
length. The collar is trimmed with a pink edge, and the chest area has two
opposing panels of cream, brown and pink cloth. The sleeves are of true
indigo, with a light blue panel and floral batik decoration. On the back, the
lower part of the jacket is decorated with alternating cream, brown, and
greyish vertical cloth panels. The panelling is divided by a horizontal row of
cowrie shells, and the hem is trimmed with an edge of jobs’ tears.
This is a jacket that would have been worn by a woman as part of an outfit.
As the donor information is unavailable for this jacket, details of its exact
provenance are unknown. However, the design is the same as that of the
Lisu wedding outfit, and therefore it is proposed that the jacket may have
originated from that area, certainly of the Kachin state. The decoration on the
outfit is different to that of tradition Lisu, which may be a determining factor in
provenance if further research is carried out on these textiles.
Bags
106.2000.16 – Shoulder Bag
This shoulder bag is formed of four rectangular panels of green brocade.
There are two vertical parallel rows of jobs’ tears running down either side of
the bag. At the edges of the bag, on each side are four stars of jobs’ tears
and a double row of them edge the two bottom tassels. The top carrying-sling
is woven in the same colours as the tassels.
The bag is worn by a man. Although donor information is unavailable for this
jacket, and therefore details of exact provenance are unknown, its style is
representative of the people of Taungthu (Pa-O). The James Green Centre,
Brighton, has an almost identical example currently on display in their
collection – G000192, which has also been documented in ‘Textiles from
Burma’ (Dell 2000:93). Original photographic evidence also from the James
Green Centre, Brighton, shows a Taungthu (Pa-O) man wearing an almost
identical bag to 106.2000.16 (photo – P0026). The Victoria and Albert
Museum also have similar examples, see reference IM.328-1924.
In this case the photographic evidence for the James Green Centre, Brighton,
is vital in preventing possible misinterpretation of the origin of the shoulder
bag. As noted by Scott in 1932 ‘that while the Taungtho (Pa-O) men tended
to dress exactly like the Shans, the women tended to carefully preserve their
traditional patterns’ (Dell 2003:80). Similar examples of these bags are also
used by the Jingpho (Kachin), and also in the Shan States (East Burma).
1938.38 – Shoulder Bag
This shoulder bag is formed of four rectangular panels of brocade. There are
two vertical parallel rows of jobs’ tears running down either side of the bag. At
the edges of the bag, on each side were originally four stars of jobs’ tears and
a double row of them edged the two bottom tassels. The top carrying sling is
woven in the same colours as the tassels.
The bag is worn by a man. Although donor information is unavailable for this
jacket, and therefore details of exact provenance are unknown, its style is
representative of the people of Taungthu (Pa-O). The James Green Centre,
Brighton, has an almost identical example currently on display in their
collection – G000192, which has also been documented in ‘Textiles from
Burma’ (Dell 2000:93). Original photographic evidence also from the James
Green Centre, Brighton, shows a Taungthu (Pa-O) man wearing an almost
identical bag to 106.2000.16 (photo – P0026). The Victoria and Albert
Museum also have similar examples, see reference IM.328-1924.
Box 4, Burma Box 57 – Shoulder Bag – ‘n’hpye’
This cream coloured bag is intricately decorated with a variety of traditional
Kachin geometric motifs woven predominantly in red, pink and green threads.
The bag is also decorated with a horizontal row of silver half-sphere studs and
finished with a thick red fringe. The geometric motifs decorating the bag
composed of ‘kanipu’ (poppy in bloom), further variations of ‘kanipu’, and ‘nra
pu’ (desmodium grans in bloom) (Fraser-Lu 1998:100).
Although, this type of bag is common in the Kachin State, the colour of the
bag is usually red, rather than cream coloured decorated with red thread. In
this sense the bag is relatively uncommon. In Kachin society textiles are
important in gift exchange prior to marriage, and traditionally this bag is a gift
from a woman to a man.
Miscellaneous
106.2000.18 – Hat
A black cylindrical shaped hat with a red circular shaped cap placed on the
top. The cap is trimmed with a row of jobs’ tears. White ceramic buttons form
a cross in the centre of the cap. The object was re-acquisitioned and
therefore donor information is unavailable, however the use of white ceramic
buttons is a tradition of the Lisu people of the Putao area, Kachin State.
There is little evidence for this type of hat in Burma. Most headgear is usually
a turban or headdress. However, one similar type of hat was photographed
by James Henry Green and is in the collection at Brighton. The photograph
(A1052) pictures a Lisu family with a woman wearing a hat of a similar shape
and style. This is the only documentary evidence that has been found so far
of this type of hat. Further research may provide more of an insight into its
origin and use.
106.2000.3 – Jacket
This is a plain true indigo jacket. The sleeves are full length and the jacket
reaches the hips. The collar has a Chinese style cross-over opening. Two
similar indigo jackets have been documented in the James Green Collection
and both have been catalogued as men’s jackets, belonging to the Kachin
Lhaovo (Maru), Kachin State.
149.2000.1 – Belt
This intricately decorated indigo coloured belt is made of a woven strip of
textile and decorated with wool thread. At each end of the belt are a bundle of
coloured wool threads in indigo and burgundy. This belt is of the same design
as 106.2000.6 however there are no cords to fasten the belt. As the belt was
donated as part of the group of textiles that also contained jackets
106.2000.10 & 106.2000.11, it is proposed that this belt might accompany one
of these jackets to make an outfit. However, at present this conclusion is not
yet ascertainable. It appears that the belt has the same purpose as belt
106.2000.6, and it is suggested that the belt was not totally finished as it is
missing the fastening cords. The fact that the design is the same as
106.2000.6 suggests that the belt is of Lisu (Kachin State) origin. However,
only further research will be able to clarify this supposition.