POLAND TRAVELLING GUIDE
1
INDEX
INTRODUCTION .......................................................................................................................... 2
Tourist Information..................................................................................................................... 4
Practical Information ................................................................................................................ 11
How to fly to Poland ................................................................................................................. 14
Main Cities .................................................................................................................................. 18
POLAND FOR YOUNG PEOPLE ................................................................................................ 20
Wonders of architecture .......................................................................................................... 25
SLASKIE ...................................................................................................................................... 27
FOOD .......................................................................................................................................... 30
Silesian cuisine .......................................................................................................................... 35
INTRODUCTION
One of Europe's most underrated countries, Poland offers a huge
amount for travellers of all stripes - from the wild scenery of its
mountainous south, with its great skiing and hiking, to the stunning
Old Towns of Cracow, Zamość and Gdańsk and the wilderness of
the Białowieża National Park and the Great Masurian Lakes in the
country's north.
Modernizing and changing fast, the Polish capital, Warsaw, was
almost totally destroyed during WWII, when it was home to
Europe's most notorious ghetto. Today the city is a combination of
Soviet and contemporary, with a painstakingly recreated Old Town
and an upbeat, progressive population. Yet most tourists head
straight for the country's biggest draw, Cracow, the country's royal
capital and a stunningly preserved architectural marvel that has
somehow managed to survive the many wars that have seen Poland
used as a battleground. Its scores of notable churches, monasteries
and abbeys make it a jewelry box of Gothic and Renaissance, and a
walk through Cracow’s Old Town, included on UNESCO's World
Heritage List since 1978, is like a walk back in time.
Poland is a nation with a proud cultural heritage, in all spheres. The
former textile city of Łódź has its famous film school, alma mater to
directors Roman Polański and Krzysztof Kieślowski. Toruń boasts of
being the hometown of astronomer Nicholas Copernicus, and
Warsaw claims Marie Curie and Frederick Chopin as natives. The
country's biggest port and northern boomtown, Gdańsk, is best
2
known as the birthplace of Lech Wałęsa's Solidarity movement,
which was founded in 1980 and eventually lead the country out of
communism and into democracy in 1989.
Poland's scenic beauty is as varied as it is extraordinary. The Baltic
coast has some excellent sandy beaches, as well as the Słowiński
National Park with its ethereal forests, bogs and sand dunes. In the
country's northeast are the Great Masurian Lakes, a playground for
boat enthusiasts of all kinds with its hundreds of pristine lakes
broken up by dense forest. The Cracow-Wielun Upland with its
limestone areas, caves and medieval castles is another highlight,
while perhaps most beautiful area of all is around the Carpathian
Mountains in the far south. They make up the highest and largest
mountain range in central Europe and form Poland's most scenic
and rugged region. Their forests and snowy mountains are a
magnet for hikers, skiers and cyclists. And because of its
remoteness and relative inaccessibility over the centuries, this
`forgotten corner' has been able to preserve its strong regional
culture – as well as a growing population of 120 or so brown bears.
Polish cuisine may not compete on the world stage with the likes of,
say, French or Chinese, but it does have its moments. Polish food is
hearty and filling, rich in meat and game. Thick soups and sauces
proliferate,
and
potatoes
and
dumplings
are
abundant
accompaniments; favorite seasonings include marjoram, dill and
caraway seeds. As for drink, Poland produces no wine but many
decent beers. It truly comes to the fore, however, in the
ubiquitous wódka (vodka).
3
Tourist Information
Where to Find Information?
Tourist information centers are usually located close to railway
stations, at airports or in town centers. They are marked with
internationally recognized "I" symbol or sometimes "IT - Informacja
Turystyczna".
Their opening times vary depending upon seasonal traffic. The
normal opening hours are between 8am and 4pm. During the
holiday peak season (June to August) or on weekends they may
stay open as late as 9pm. Information can be obtained in person, by
telephone, e-mail or by fax.
How Can They Help?
Tourist information centers can help you plan your sightseeing route
around town or city or find available overnight accommodation.
They will also tell you about applicable public transport fares,
organized events or local tourist attractions. Information centers
also supply promotional leaflets about the town and the region by
supplying relevant street maps, information booklets and guides.
Advice is also given, for example, about local Accident & Emergency
facilities, specialist shops and current discount price offers for
tourists. Visitors can also ask them to call for a taxi, reserve a table
at
a
restaurant
or
help
with
hiring
a
car.
4
Local Guides
Visitors may require the use of a guide while visiting city centers,
national parks or other tourist attractions. Licensed guides will help
you get the most from your sightseeing tour and may have
information
or
anecdotes
not
found
in
any
guidebooks.
5
Where to Find a Guide?
To hire a guide it is best to enquire at a local tourist information
center, hotel reception or at a travel agency. If they cannot help
with finding a guide they will put you in touch with a local agency
that can. The most popular languages tend to be English, German
and Russian but at major tourist attractions and larger cities, guides
speaking other languages are also available, including Japanese and
Chinese.
Many historic sites, art galleries and museums also offer personal or
audio guided tours in at least one foreign language. Some cities
have audio guided tours of their historic centers or as part of their
river cruises but usually in English.
Prices
The typical cost of hiring a guide for several hours starts from about
PLN 150.00 per hour with a minimum charge, usually of 2 hours.
The cost could also depend on the number of people in the party.
Maps and Guidebooks
With the great variety of maps and guidebooks available about
Poland, finding one that has information about the city or region of
your interest should not be too difficult.
Guidebooks
6
Comprehensive travel guidebooks about the whole of Poland can be
found by prospective tourists in large newsagents, bookshops or
tourist information centers. There is usually a wide selection of
books printed by the world's major publishers in either Polish or
other foreign languages. They contain reliable and often very
detailed information and many of these guides are certainly worth
spending
a
little
extra.
Guidebooks about a particular region or city are best purchased or
obtained
once
you
get
to
your
destination.
Local
tourist
organizations offer reliable information packs in Polish and other
foreign languages. These can be obtained from tourist information
desks,
hotels,
hostels
and
kiosks.
The most common language in guidebooks is English but they are
also available in other major European languages including German,
French, Russian and Italian.
Maps
A wide variety of tourist maps, road maps and city maps can be
bought in the same outlets that sell guidebooks. Large newsagents
and bookshops usually carry a good selection of maps from world's
leading publishers. Catering for a wide variety of uses, some of the
available maps are designed towards a specific activity, such as
country walks, cycling, mountain trekking, canoeing or sailing.
These usually include legends and descriptions in several languages.
Available Discounts
7
A holiday in Poland does not have to be a major drain on your
resources. Visitors can find out what discounts are available to them
and
get
the
best
value
for
their
Polish
money.
ISIC
You can use your ISIC student card and can take advantage of a
wide range of discounts and special services designed exclusively for
cardholders which include museums, airlines, restaurants, cinemas
and many others. By visiting the "TravelMax" website cardholders
can find out which outlets in Poland accept the ISIC card
Euro<26
The "Euro<26" card can be used in Poland to obtain discounts on
airline tickets, sports and tourist equipment, clothes, nightclub and
disco entrance costs, cinema and theatre tickets, language courses
and many other services. Go to the "Euro<26.org" website to find
out which outlets in Poland accept the "Euro<26" card.
"Karta Miejska" / City Card
This scheme operates in several Polish cities including Warsaw and
Krakow. The cards are designed as a discounted season ticket for
public transport within that particular city and also offer discounts
on car parking, museum entry and some sport and cultural event
tickets.
Signs and Symbols
Although the majority of popular signs, symbols, logos and
pictograms that visitors may come across in Poland are used
internationally, there are those which are not self-evident and may
require
some
explaining.
There are two signposts often seen in cities or along roads, "IT" or
simply "I". Both of these refer to a "Tourist Information" facilities.
The former is now being replaced by the internationally recognised
"I "
symbol.
Another frequently seen sign is "PKP". This acronym stands for
Poland's state rail operator, "Polskie Koleje Państwowe". It is often
found on signposts and on public transport timetables and is used to
direct passengers to railway stations or mark rail stations on maps.
Another commonly seen sign is "PKS". This is the acronym for the
nationwide coach operator. Although some routes are now operated
by more than one coach company, "PKS", being the oldest and
largest player in the market, has become a generic name for public
coach transport in general. The "PKS" logo is also used to mark
coach
stops
and
stations
on
maps.
A yellow postal horn with the words "Poczta Polska" is the symbol of
the
Polish
Post
Office
service.
"NFZ", a dark blue logo, with a two-coloured heart represents
8
Poland's National Health Fund and is used to mark public health
facilities.
On The Trail
When touring Poland on foot, visitors will come across different
trails markers. These are painted in different colors only to
differentiate between trails running close to each other as there is
no grading attached to any particular color. The start of a trail is
usually marked with a circle of a particular color within a white ring.
Further along the trail, the characteristic trail marker is made up of
three stripes; the top and bottom are white and the middle stripe is
the color of the particular trail.
Travelling with Your Pet
If visitors would like to bring their pets with them on their holiday in
Poland,
there
are
some
useful
tips
they
should
follow.
EU Visitors - Pet Passports
For travel within the EU, a dog or cat must be micro-chipped and
issued with the standard EU Pet Passport. Please enquire at your
local
veterinary
Non-EU Visitors
inspector
(LVI)
for
further
information.
9
The pet may be brought into Poland but will be subject to the
following conditions:

The pet must be micro-chipped or tattooed

An International Health Certificate should be obtained which has
been issued no more than 10 days prior to arrival on an EU
compliant form

An anti-rabies vaccination record should be issued at least 30 days
prior to arrival but it should not be more than 9 months old
Tourists should seek information from the Polish Consulate in their
country
of
residence
about
any
latest
updates
on
these
requirements.
Pets on Holiday
Many hotels now accept pets in their rooms but it is worth finding
about the house rules at the time of booking. The hotel may charge
extra for a pet but this is usually no more than about PLN 50.00.
Every pet requires a ticket on public transport. Whilst using public
transport pet owners are required to ensure the safety of other
passengers by keeping their dog muzzled and on a leash at all
times.
10
Practical Information
11
Republic of Poland
Area: 312,000 sq. km.
Location: Central Europe.
Poland borders with Germany, the Czech Republic, Slovakia,
Ukraine, Belarus, Lithuania, and Russia. Its northern border – 500
km long – runs along the Baltic Sea coast.
Population: 38,000,000.
Flag: white and red.
Official language: Polish.
Capital city: Warsaw.
Other major cities: Łódź, Cracow, Wrocław, Poznań, Gdańsk,
Szczecin, Katowice, Lublin.
Climate: Temperate, the average temperature in July is 19°C
(67°F), but it can rise to 30°C (86°F). The best time of the year for
winter sports is between January and March.
Useful telephone numbers
Nationwide free 24 hour emergency phone numbers are:

Ambulance 999,

Fire Brigade 998,

Police 997. For access to these services from a mobile phone dial
112,
Tourists can use the following emergency numbers during the
summer season:

800 200 300, +48-608 599 999.
Traffic regulations
These are compatible with the regulations in EU countries. Speed
limits on Polish roads are:

50 km/h for all vehicles in built-up areas;

90 km/h on one lane roads;

100 km/h on two lane roads;

120 km/h on expressways;

140 km/h on motorways;
Headlights must be switched on at all times while driving.
12
Customs regulations
Customs rules and procedures are similar to those in force in the
majority of EU countries. Detailed information is available from the
Ministry of Finance, tel. +(48-22) 694 31 94.
How to pay?
The Polish currency is the złoty (PLN). You can also pay using other
currencies e.g. euro, if you come to an agreement with the vendor,
but this is not always the case. Most transactions take place in złoty.
Money can be changed at banks or exchange counters (kantor).
Credit cards are accepted in most shops and when paying for
services in the whole of Poland. ATMs of different banks are
available 24/7 in cities and towns.
The official money is the złoty divided into 100 groszy. Polish money
is in circulation as coins and banknotes.
Coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 groszy and 1, 2, 5 złoty.
Banknotes: 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 złotys.
Train
Poland has a well-developed rail network. Major Polish cities are
interconnected
by
Intercity
express
trains
running
between
European cities. The national railway network is administered and
serviced by the Polish State Railways (PKP). All necessary
information can be found on the PKP websites:

www.pkp.pl;

www.rozklad-pkp.pl.
and at the phone number +48 42 194 36.
13
Air
There are airports in Poland in the following cities: Warsaw, Cracow,
Gdańsk, Katowice, Łódź, Poznań, Rzeszów, Szczecin, Wrocław and
Bydgoszcz. LOT Polish Airlines is Poland’s national carrier. In order
to find the necessary information, all travellers planning to come to
Poland and move around the country by air should visit the LOT
website.
In addition, there are other carriers, including budget airlines, such
as:

Easy Jet;

WizzAir;

Ryanair;

Aer Lingus.
Ferries to Poland
Here you can find information about booking a ferry to Poland
http://www.aferry.co.uk/ferry-to-poland-uk.htm
How to fly to Poland
Flying to Poland has become a lot easier recently due to a large
number of airports across the country and airlines running busy
flight schedules.
Seven airlines now regularly operate to 11 Polish cities from
17 airports in the United Kingdom and ROI.
Airports are situated in the vicinity of most of the largest cities in
Poland and all are serviced by public transport, shuttle buses or
14
taxis. Both international and domestic flights are available from
airlines, amongst them LOT Polish Airlines.
Flight Connections
Most of the Polish airports are also used for domestic flights.
Around fifty cities in more than thirty countries maintain direct flight
connections with Warsaw, the capital of Poland. Okecie Airport in
Warsaw is a stop for around 25 airlines, amongst them British
Airways, SAS, Air France and Lufthansa. Poland also has direct
intercontinental flight connections with the USA, Canada, Israel and
Thailand.
Airports in Gdańsk, Katowice, Szczecin, Poznań, Wrocław, Krakow
and Rzeszow also service international connections. There are also
many airports in Poland which operate only domestic flights.
15
FLIGHTS BETWEEN THE UK AND POLAND
FROM
TO
B
GD
KT
KR
LC
LU
PO RZ
SZ
WA
WR
Z
N
W
K
J
Z
Z
Z
W
O
E
G
BELFAST
BIRMING
E
R
16
R
R
R
R
BRISTOL
R
R
E
CORK
W
W
W
DONCAST
W
W
W
R
R
HAM
R
R
R
R
R
R
W
W
W
ER/
SHEFFIEL
D
DUBLIN
R
EAST
R
R
R
E/
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
A/R R
R
R
R/
R
MIDDLAN
DS
EDINBUR
R
R
GH
R
GATWICK
E
GLASGOW R
/
R
R
W
W
HEATHRO
L/B
W
A
LEEDS/
R
R
BRADFOR
D
17
LIVERPOO
W
W
L
E/
R
R
R
R
R
LUTON
W
W
MANCHES
R
R
W/
R
R
W
W
R
W
R
W
R
W
R
TER
NEWCAST
J
LE
STANSTE
R
R
R
D
A
Aer Lingus
BA British Airways
E
Easy Jet
J
Jet2
L
LOT
R
Ryanair
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
W
Wizzair
Main Cities
18
Bydgoszcz
Białystok
Gdańsk
Gdynia
Łódź
Kraków
Poznań
Sopot
Toruń
Warszawa
Wrocław
Szczecin
Rzeszów
Zakopane
Olsztyn
Gorzów Wielkopolski
Lublin
Opole
Katowice
Zielona Gora
Gigantic metropolises, historic town
19
POLAND FOR YOUNG PEOPLE
20
The motto of the founding act of the Academy of Zamosc states
that, "the state of the Republic depends on the upbringing of its
young people." The Polish Republic of the 21st century takes the
words of the Zamoyski Chancellor into consideration and has
diversified offers for its young people.
In the first line of fire of interests allowed for the under 18's is the
Laserhause in Katowice. This Laser Entertainment Centre, among
its many services, primarily offers a laser shooting gallery and laser
paintballing. The participants, in a scene straight from a computer
game, in a maze of tires, chains and metal cosmic structures, are
armed with laser weapons and special vests and compete against
each other. The UV lamps, strobes, flashing lights and fluorescent
graffiti along with the music and sound effects transport the
participants into the world of adventure. The atmosphere thick with
smoke also stirs the emotions. The Laser Maze is another game
offered by the Laserhause in Katowice. The labyrinth consists of a
set of lasers set up like the security measure at the bank in the film,
Mission Impossible.
It is not easy to overcome the obstacles
without cutting a laser beam and each error is signalled by an
alarm. The Laserhause is a place that has never been seen before.
www.laserhouse.pl
Staying in the paramilitary theme of entertainment, it is worth have
a look at the Bastion in Kolobrzeg. The fortress, hidden among the
greenery, welcomes visitors to view and take a ride on some of its
armoured equipment on the army training grounds or have a go at
shooting an airgun on the shooting range. At the Bastion there is a
T55 tank, armoured cars, armoured personnel carriers and a selfpropelled floating transporter. Driving around the training ground is
a serious dose of adrenaline. The Bastion allows a safe contact with
military
equipment,
even
those
who
missed
out
on
conscription. After playing at soldiers and enriched in knowledge
about the army, the amateur soldiers are glad for a hearty bowl of
thick pea soup served from a military field kitchen. A souvenir shop
with military memorabilia is the last port of call of the day.
www.bastion-panzer.com.pl
It is a truism to say that young people like music. It is also true
that young people cannot remember the big-beat sound but at a
concert given by Anna Rusowicz, the singing daughter of the
famous
mother
Ada,
the
youth
enjoyed
themselves
considerably. The 1960's totally took over the Firlej Club in Wroclaw
including the styling of the musicians and the lead singer Anna, the
scenery and, of course, the music. The music of today's youth is, of
course, the rhythm of hip-hop. Parties and rap music performances
are held in various Polish cities whilst the original dance and style of
21
dress serves in the recognition and development of the hip-hop
culture. Performers such as Peja, O.S.T.R., Fokus or 52 Debiec are
known by any self-respecting young person. There is also an
internet TV hip-hop station.
22
For present youth, the origins of the Jarocin Festival go back to
ancient times. In 1970 a musical review was organised under the
name the "Greater Poland Rhythms of Youth". Every year the
Jarocin Festival is breaking attendance records. It is indeed an
honour for every performer to play on the same stage where such
celebrities like Kora z Mannam, Renata Przemyk, Kasia Nosowska,
Kazik Staszewski or Brett Anderson, Peter Murphy from the group
Bauhaus once performed.
www.jarocinfestiwal.pl
Jurek Owsiak, the organizer and good spirit of the festival in
Kostrzyn on the Odra, explains that the name "Przystanek
Woodstock" arose from the legend of the Festival in Woodstock and
the atmosphere of the era of the flower children.
The word
"Przystanek", was taken by the originator of the festival from the
name of the television series "Przystanek Alaska" (Northern
Exposure). "Przystanek Woodstock" was originally organised as a
thank you for the work by the volunteers of the Great Orchestra of
Christmas Charity. Best performance at the Festival is presented
with the Golden Spinning-Top award.
participants and very popular.
The event is free for
In 2001, more than 700,000
registered for tickets and were entertained by celebrities like The
Prodigy, Dog Eat Dog, Halloween, Airborne, H-Blockx, Donots and
Noah's ark.
It is widely known that movement is good for health, so the youth in
Poland moves. Most teenagers are still at school or study, so
remain attached to their parents, which is why the Polish Youth
Hostel Association are propagating the notion of roaming camps
based on a network of youth hostels.
www.ptsm.org.pl In Poland there are 80 such routes which include
walking and cycling trails prepared for the roaming camps by the
Regional Branches of Polish Youth Hostel Association. The routes
are typically organized along the most attractive tourist routes and
calculated to take 7, 10 or 14 days. A similar role is performed by
the students' cabins or types of tourist hostels, run by the student
23
organizations
or
persons
associated
with
educational
establishments. The cabins usually include in their profile, the
activities and habits of the visiting students and those running the
cabin. Such sites offer only basic living conditions and are subject
to rules governing self-cleaning, changing footwear or the bringing
and drinking of alcohol.
In a healthy body there is a healthy spirit. To entice young people
from their homes, cities are building Skate-parks which are obstacle
courses designed for extreme sports such as skateboarding, BMX
bikes and inline skaters. Elements of equipment in a professional
Skate-park include half-pipes, ramps, banks, fun-boxes, pyramids,
rails, grind-boxes, London gaps, kickers, spines and picnic tables. A
variation on a Skate-park is a Skate-plaza, which is a place for street
skating. In a Skate-plaza the obstacles are natural components
found in most streets such as walls, stairs, ramps, etc. In Poland,
there are 8 Skate-plazas, in Gdansk, Rzgow, Stargard Szczecinski,
Bialystok, Krakow and two-level Skate plaza in Siedlce. The Skateplaza in Szczytna is the only Skate-plaza in Europe that is coupled
with the track for racing in wheelchairs, which is professional
rehabilitation facility.
The Catholic Church also directs offers towards the youth which
include pastoral centres, retreats and also excursions for young
people seeking their place in life.
The phenomenon of our age is the internet. Young people have
moved to a virtual reality, social networking sites, gaming and realtime communication with the most distant corners of the world.
24
Wonders of architecture
A tour along a trail of palaces, medieval cities or Cistercian abbeys
can be the best lesson in the history of art. Below is a mini-alphabet
of the jewels of Polish architecture, from Antonin to Zamosc.
A is for Antonin. The hunting palace of the Radziwill family
designed by Karl Schinkel, the leading German architect of the 19th
century, can be found here. The structure, laid out in the shape of a
Greek cross, is noted for its central hall with its ceiling supported by
one huge decorative pillar.
C is for Cistercian Abbeys. Founded in France the order was
brought to Poland in the 12th century. The Cistercian monks,
excellent farmers and artisans, created thriving cultural and
economic centres of Baroque architecture. These can be found
along
the
entire
trail
in
the
towns
of Henrykow, Krzeszow, Trzebnica, Kamieniec Zabkowicki, and with
stunning panache, in Lubiaz.
F is for the Fortresses in Klodzko and Srebrna Gora. These are
monuments of military architecture from the 17th and 18th
centuries.
surrounded
The
with
fragments
numerous
of
the
Prussian
legends
that
fortifications
have
fuelled
are
the
imaginations of many treasure-seekers.
G is for Gdansk. With its unique old town architecture and it's Long
Market with its galaxy wealthy merchant's Renaissance houses.
H is for Centennial Hall, the symbol of Wroclaw. This is the best
example of Wroclaw's modernism and the revolutionary technical
25
solution at the beginning of the 20th century by Max Berg. Since the
subject of modernism has been raised, we should also mention the
group of buildings constructed in Wroclaw in 1929 on the occasion
of the "Living and the Work-Place" Exhibition, also known as
"WUWA". These structures are today studied by architectural
students throughout the world.
J is for Churches of Peace in Jawor and Swidnica. These are 17th
century Protestant churches with neither towers nor bells but built
from wood, clay and straw. They still amaze with their engineering
skills and delight with their rich Baroque interiors.
P is for Paczkow. This town has been called the Silesian
"Carcassonne" with its great preserved medieval walls and several
defensive towers.
W is for Wang. This is a Lutheran church that was transported
from Norway in its entirety and has become the hallmark of the
town of Karpacz. The 12th century wooden church was built entirely
without nails.
Z is for Zamosc. The city is has consistency with its magnificent
buildings. The Market Square, the Town Hall and its houses with
ornate arcades mimic the Italian Renaissance style in the best
possible way.
26
SLASKIE
27
..." I was looking for exciting holidays, so I chose Poland to explore
the Trail of the Eagles' Nests. I discovered amazing old castles and
picturesque ruins surrounded by beautiful landscapes that appear to
be dipped in luscious green forests. There's no way you will get
bored here! Whether cycling, walking or horseback riding, it was
pure pleasure to discover the raw beauty of nature and Poland’s
local legends. As a climber, I was particularly impressed by the
regions massive limestone rocks. Poland is a perfect place for
climbing enthusiasts like me."
The outlines of foundries can bee seen on the horizon. Factories and
mining towers dominate the landscape of Silesia, one of the
smallest Voivodships in Poland. There are not many rural settings
here, but many urban ones. There are as many as 71 towns and
cities, each so close to the other so that they effectively blend
together, dense like an industrial anthill. Should visitors stay away?
28
Why, no! Stay as long as possible.
Ironically, the largest industrial area in Poland is also one of the
most interesting one, especially from a visitor's point of view.
Located in the south of the country, the upper part of historical
Silesia is as a treasure trove full of riches, industrial and natural.
The
old
mines,
from
the
19th
century,
in Zabrze, Rybnik and Tarnowskie Gory have been turned into
fascinating underground trails and the mine shafts into art galleries.
In the Tarnowskie Gory you can take a boat ride through flooded
mine tunnels or catch a train on the world's oldest narrow gauge
railway that is still in use!
The vast fortunes made in the 19th century from the coal and ore
that was mined here have resulted in the diversity of marvellous
residencies across the landscape. Today some have been turned
into luxurious hotels. The Palace in Pszczyna and the hunting lodge
in Promnice, once belonging to the Hochberg family, are two of
the most magnificent and best kept historical structures in this part
of Europe.
The beautiful forests and perfectly prepared skiing slopes in the
undulating southern part of the Voivodship are a breath of fresh air
and tranquillity after all the urban turmoil. The only natural desert in
Europe can also be found in Silesia and even some mirages have
been seen here!
Silesia is one of the oldest Polish historical regions. The Trail of
Eagles Nests, dating back to the 14th century, is a route linking a
string of several medieval fortresses which, in the summer season,
are turned into backdrops for festivals, exhibitions, and concerts.
The southern areas of the Voivodship are the domain of the
Highland peoples who produce some excellent beers. From
"Zywiec", now recognized all over the world, to the very special and
valued for its unique non-pasteurised flavour, "Brackie" beer from a
small brewery in Cieszyn. Elaborate lacework can also be bought
here, including embroidered underwear, traditionally made by
Highland women from the town of Koniakow.
29
30
FOOD
Cream of porcini mushroom soup, prawns in cream or a bowl of
pierogi – the menus of the two oldest Polish restaurants, Piwnica
Swidnicka in Wroclaw (serving continually since 1273) and
Wierzynek in Krakow, are made up primarily of Polish traditional
showpiece dishes.
In recent months the latest culinary craze has been for .... Polish
cuisine! After the frenzies for pasta, fusion cuisine and sushi the
fashion has returned for the classics like Steak Tatare, herring
served with a shot of iced vodka, beetroot soup, bigos and minced
pork rissoles. Dishes that have been known for years are now
prepared in a new way and are served in a refined way by
impeccably
dressed
and
trained
waiters
in
a
sophisticated
atmosphere as well as in homely surroundings.
Guests can now dine in exquisitely luxurious restaurants like Ale
Gloria (the jewel in the crown of the Magda Gessler restaurant
empire) and Dom Polski in Warsaw, Jadka in Wroclaw and Nostalgia
in Krakow. For the traditional Polish dish of pierogi it is best to
choose a restaurant that specialises in their making like the
Pierogarnia in Warsaw, U Fryziera in Kazimierz Dolny or Dom
Pierogow in Nowy Sacz.
Regional flavours are best tasted in their home environment.
Therefore, in Poznan you should order "Pyry z Gzikiem" (potatoes
with curd cheese), in Opole "Kluski Slaskie z Modra Kapusta"
(Silesian dumplings with sweet red cabbage), in Szczawnica
"Kwasnica" (Pickled Cabbage Soup) and in Krynica "Rydze prosto z
blachy" (Wild mushrooms from a griddle).
Along the coast, in the Budzisz Tavern near Puck you can sample a
dried flounder or freshly smoked whitefish, and eels in the "Pod
Sieja" Inn by Lake Wigry. In metropolitan Warsaw you should try
"Zimne noszki z chrzanem" (Pig's trotters in aspic with horseradish),
in Krakow the speciality in the C.K. Dezerter restaurant is its apple
strudel and the Sodas Restaurant in Punsk is known for its
repertoire of frontier dishes like "Czenaki" (meat, cabbage and
potato bake), "Kibiny" (dumplings with meat) or "Cepeliny" (potato
dumplings with meat).
Poles love "Chlopskie Jadlo" (Peasant Food), therefore a chain of
restaurants under the same name has become very popular. Dishes
like home-made lard with marjoram spread on fresh bread, grilled
31
smoked ewe's cheese (Oscypek), pickled cabbage soup or grilled
shoulder of pork can be enjoyed in dozens of outlets, with their
traditional thatched roofs, that are scattered all around the country.
The Tastes of Poland
Travelling in search of the traditional tastes of Poland is like
discovering the different times when other nations lived on Polish
territories like the Jews, Lithuanians, Ukrainians and the Tartars and
bringing their own culture which has become instilled in the
different culinary traditions. This diversity can be seen today on the
Polish table.
In Poland the old recipes are still in common use. Simply travel to
the Podkarpackie Region to try the typical Lithuanian dishes of
"Kibiny" (dumplings), "Kartacze" (potato dumplings) stuffed with
minced lamb or "Kindziuk", a type of dried meat.
In the region around Sejny visitors will come across the traditional
"Sekacz" that is common in the Prussian kitchen. This is a form of
delicately flavoured layered cake that was originally baked on a spit
over a hearth. Around Lublin we can sample "Bilgoraj Pierogi" from
an old Polish recipe which are baked dumplings stuffed with curd
cheese and buckwheat.
Visitors should not leave the Podhale region without trying the
famous of polish cheeses, the smoked "Oscypek" made for centuries
from ewe's milk by the shepherds from Wolow. Other tempting
delicacies from the "highland dairy family" are the mild "Bundz", the
32
piquant "Bryndza" or the "Zetyca", an extremely healthy sheep's
milk whey.
The Malopolska region is famous for its "Lisiecka" sausage which
has been produced in Liszki near Krakow since the 1930's. Polish
cuisine cannot be imagined without famous soups like "Barszcz"
(beetroot), "Rosol" (chicken) or "Grzybowa" (wild mushroom) soup.
Of the more popular soups there is "Zur" which is made from
sourdough and originating in Silesia and "Kwasnica" from the
mountainous regions which is based on a broth made from a goose
with thin strands of sauerkraut.
For desert we recommend the gingerbread from Torun. It is a
sweet business card of Poland with traditions that date back to
medieval times. Cakes of various shapes and sizes, fragrant with
honey and other spices, have been handed out on occasions to
important visitors like emperors, nobility and presidents. Other cities
have also become known for their baking traditions. Krakow is
known for its pretzels that are sprinkled with poppy seeds, rock salt
or sesame seeds and are called "Bajgle" and are of Jewish
origin. Kazimierz Dolny has become known for its "Cebularz"
(onion
loaf)
and
it's
"Koguty"
(yeasty-dough
cockerels)
while Poznan has its St Martin's Croissants which are traditionally
baked on 11th November on the Feast of St Martin, the patron saint
of the city.
Recipes
The first recorded Polish cookbook, "Compendium Ferculorum",
translated roughly as the gathering of food, was printed in 1682. It
contained about 300 dishes of prepared meat, fish and dairy
33
products. Its signature dish was the "Capon in a Bottle" or a rooster
cooked in a glass container with whisked eggs.
The polish table is like a giant cauldron where recipes and
ingredients from the whole of Europe are mixed and blended. The
recipe for soured "Barszcz" (beetroot soup) and "Bigos" (hunters
stew) was borrowed from the Lithuanians, "Golonka" (pork knuckle)
from the Germans, "Mizeria" (cucumber salad) from the French and
"Pierogi", pickled mushrooms and preserves from the Russians. The
recipes for "Faworki" (sweet cookies) and doughnuts came from
Vienna after the successful offensive by Jan III Sobieski against the
Turks.
Once the stable diet of the average Pole was bread, cereals, beans,
cabbage and the affordable herring, pickled, salted or smoked. A
large contribution to the development of Polish cuisine was made by
Bon Sforza, who not only bought Italian cooks with her but also a
range of vegetables which have now become the basic ingredients
of many Polish soups, parsley, celery and leeks. The Queen's
vegetable garden still exists in the district of Lobzow in Krakow.
Polish culinary hits are "Zur", a soup made from pickled bread and
pickled cucumbers, which today are still pickled in the traditional
way, immersed in barrels in the River Narew. There are also dishes
which give foreigners shudders like the blood and dried fruit
"Czernina" (soup made from duck's blood), "Flaczki" (tripe soup)
and "Ozorki" (ox tongue in aspic).
We can thank the Jews for carp and potato pancakes, which are
served with sour cream and sugar, appearing on Polish tables and
the lowly potato, also known as "Kartofle" "Bulwy" and "Pyry", has
34
become an irreplaceable part of Polish cuisine. They are also the
basis of dishes in the Suwalki (cepeliny), the Podlaskie (bapki and
kiszki ziemnaczane), the Kaszubian (pulki) and the Silesian (kluski
Slaskie) regions. It is hard to imagine that when the humble potato
appeared for the first time for sale in the colonial shop in Krakow, it
cost more than chocolate.
Polish cuisine has always benefited greatly from the wealth of herbs
and spices like pepper, caraway seeds, mustard, nutmeg and
juniper, which is an integral flavour in the cooking of venison and
the wrongly forgotten black cumin.
Silesian cuisine
The dining tables in Katowice are laden with żur, kwaśnica, krupniok
śląski, wodzionka, hekele, babraczka, żulik – typical of local, Silesian
cuisine. (To appreciate these dishes it is best to taste each one. The
written word is insufficient to describe them. All that can be said is
that they are delicious). The origins of these preparations can be
traced back to local farming traditions where dairy and vegetable
products used to be the staple food. As a result of 20th century
rural to city migration this way of cooking, which contained very
little meat, was gradually modified. These culinary traditions,
together with the local dialect are important sources of Silesian
regional identity and character. The restaurants and taverns in
Katowice offer typical Silesian and Polish dishes, however,
Mediterranean
and
European
cuisine,
is
also
served.
The region is also the heart of beer making in Poland. A brewery
producing some of the most popular brands of beer in Poland is
35
located in Katowice. Enthusiasts of the `amber nectar` can sample
this frothy delight when visiting those celebrated and award winning
breweries in Zywiec and Tychy.
36
ROULADEN
POPPY SEED CAKE
SILESIAN DUMPLINGS
SZALOT
MAKOWKI
KASZANKA
37
38
PIEROGI
BIGOS
FAWORKI