SCHOOL OF HAIRDRESSING & APPLIED THERAPIES NVQ Level 2 Beauty Therapy B6 – Carry out Waxing Services Course Notes Student Name: ____________________________ Introduction Waxing is the temporary removal of body hair by pulling it out of the skin by the root, using some form of bond. A hot, warm or cold wax product is spread over the hairy area, and a cotton or paper strip is then removed in a quick, single movement. It should leave the area clean and hair-free. Hygiene, client care and lots of practice are necessary, which may mean this unit takes some practice to learn, but it is very rewarding for you and the client. Waxing treatments always form a large part of any salon’s business, as many women in western society dislike body hair. However, some cultures, such as eastern Europeans, do not dislike it. Waxing tends to be a steady source of income, with peaks at certain times of the year. With the first rays of sunshine, clients wish to show off hair-free legs, so spring is always busy. Christmas is another busy time, when more revealing party outfits are worn and bodies need tender loving care and that extra bit of maintenance. Before you can give the client a full consultation, then plan and prepare for the treatment, you need to understand: hair facts wax facts other methods of hair removal This knowledge will allow you to make the best treatment decision for your client, based upon a sound understanding of the choices available to suit their needs. Benefits for the client Quick and effective method Immediate results Minimal pain 1 Lasts 4-6 weeks Good hygiene practices All good hygiene practices should be continuously carried out to ensure that no cross-infection takes place – starting with preparation of the working area, throughout the treatment itself, through to leaving the work area and equipment clean and tidy ready for the next treatment. The client will then have total confidence in the salon and it ensures you are following all the required health and safety regulations. Client consultation Salon hygiene Protection against possible risks Client hygiene Good Habits for Hygiene Immunisation 2 Personal hygiene Good hygiene knowledge Code of practice for waxing As the popularity of waxing increases, the code of practice has been developed to protect clients and therapists and to ensure that high levels of service are maintained. Any therapist working within the industry should follow the codes of practice as a minimum standard – this is what is required to meet acceptable health and safety guidelines. With an increase in waxing treatments and with intimate waxing becoming more popular, it is now more important than ever for therapists to protect themselves against legal action from unhappy clients. The Habia Code of Practice for Waxing can be divided into three main areas: 1. Client prep and consultation ● ● ● ● ● ● ● It is good practice to perform a patch test on all new clients, prior to the consultation or treatment, to ensure there is no sensitivity to the products you are using. Every client should receive a full consultation before any waxing treatment commences. Information recorded during the consultation may be stored electronically or filled manually. Information must be kept confidential and must be kept for up to three years. During the consultation the client’s health and lifestyle will be discussed as well as current methods used to remove the hair. Contra-indications and contra-actions will be discussed as well as aftercare for the client. It is very important that the client signs the consultation form, to say they agree with the information that has been recorded and that they understand the aftercare advice given and will follow this advice. 2. Hygiene ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● The spread of organisms which may cause diseases must be controlled during waxing treatments. All metal equipment must be sterilised using the appropriate techniques (e.g. autoclave). Each client needs new, disposable equipment such as spatulas. Therapists should ensure that their personal presentation is to the highest standard possible. Therapists may wear aprons to protect their clothing. They should put on disposable gloves directly before the waxing commences and change the gloves between every client. The therapist also needs to ensure that the client’s clothing is suitably protected to prevent damage from products. Every beauty therapy business should check with their local authority for the methods of waste disposal required in their area. This is because 3 some waste will be contaminated, (e.g. by client’s blood from blood spotting). 3. Techniques during treatment ● ● ● ● ● One of the main injuries to occur during waxing is burns from the wax being heated too high. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for guidelines on heating. Therapists should test the wax on the inner part of their own wrist first and then apply a small amount of wax to the client, to make sure the temperature is tolerable for the client. Therapists must ensure that clients are in the best position possible for the area being treated to reduce the risk of bruising. For first-time clients it is advisable to apply and remove a small amount of wax first, so the client can experience the sensation before a large amount of wax is applied. For more information on the codes of practice, visit the Habia website: www.habia.org. Hygiene and Sterilisation The importance of attention to detail with regard to hygiene and sterilisation practices in the salon cannot be over-stressed. It is therefore important to realise not only the skin being treated, but also everything that is likely to come into contact with the client. The two main conditions against which the therapist must guard are AIDS and hepatitis, both of which are transmitted through blood. The aim is to avoid cross infection from one client to another and from the client to the therapist or vice versa. This can be achieved easily by: 1) 2) 3) 4) Carrying out thorough sanitation of treatment rooms. Correct sterilisation of tools. Correct disposal of clinical waste. Personal hygiene and safety. Hygiene within the salon is easily achieved and the procedure should be a routine matter. All equipment, hard surfaces and washable floors should be cleaned daily with an antibacterial cleanser. ‘Sterilisation should not only be done, it should be seen to be done’ 4 In other words, not only should the salon be as completely sterile as possible, but also some of the processes should be carried out in front of the client for confidence to be assured. Warmth, moisture, darkness, and food are needed for germs to multiply. Disease is spread by: a) Direct contact – with infected person. b) Infection by droplets in the air – sneezing. c) Indirect contact – touching an infected towel, unsterilized tools. Three micro-organisms that cause infection are: a) Bacteria. b) Viruses c) Fungi Methods of Sterilisation The main methods of sterilisation are heat, chemical and radiation. Sterilisation – destruction of micro-organisms. Disinfection – some destruction of micro-organisms. Method Boiling Autoclave Suitability For towels and headbands that are suitable for machine washing at high temperatures. How it Works Use at 60° to 100° as the majority of germs are destroyed at this temperature. Similar to a pressure cooker. Distilled water only is Ideal for metal instruments e.g. used and is heated under pressure to a cuticle knife, nippers, scissors. temperature of 121°C. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions for use. 5 Liquid sterilisation Ideal for immersion of small tools to maintain sterilisation e.g. tweezers. Ideal to place the tools in once they have been sterilised in the autoclave. ‘Barbicide’ is a trade name used in the salon. Follow manufacturers instructions for correct dilution. Ultra Violet cabinet Not suitable for items with body fluids on them. Wash tools first. UV waves travel in straight lines and tools must be turned over to ensure both sides are completely sterilised. Grease is a barrier to sterilisation therefore the UV cabinet must be kept very clean. Activated Glutaraldehyde Solutions The UV cabinet is fitted with a mercury vapour lamp that emits uv radiation, visible as uv light at a wavelength of 254 nanometers. When the necessary does is delivered for a specific length of time then bacteria become inactive. Lamps must be changed after 2000 hours use. Not very powerful. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions for use. Effective in destroying bacteria, spores and fungi. Glutaraldehyde has an expected lifespan of 14 – 28 days. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions for use. 6 Assessment techniques and questioning the client This is a vital part of the therapist’s role, all treatments and services are based upon what you discover within the initial consultation. The only way to make correct diagnosis of the client’s needs is through questioning and then tailoring your plan to the information you receive. The consultation also provides the initial bonding process between client and therapist. You can get to know your client better as well as gaining a clear picture of them for the treatment, including, contra-indications and what they hope to gain from the treatment or service. Managing the client’s expectation is often a hard part of the consultation – an eyebrow wax shape can only enhance the eye area and remove hairs following the natural shape, but it will not change the natural shape and turn them in to the client’s favourite celebrity! A good therapist will use all the skills mentioned and follow the client’s body language to help maintain the information required for a good effective treatment plan. It must be gained mutually that the time and money involved and the results suit both the client and the therapist. If the plan is unrealistic, the client will not stay with the salon; they will go elsewhere. Observation skills Technical knowledge Clarification techniques Professional Consultation Treatment and product knowledge Questioning techniques Contra-indication awareness Effective communication 7 Questioning techniques Asking questions is a skilled task. If you really want to find out what the client thinks and needs from you, you need to ask them. How you ask, what you ask and the type of question will dictate the reply you get. So, it is important that you give some care to your questioning technique. If you ask the right question and listen carefully to the answer, the treatment almost plans itself! All information should be included on the record card, which you will be filling out as you discuss details during the consultation. Use the record card as your guide. Closed questions Closed questions usually need only one-word answers. They do not allow conversation to flow, but they are good for confirming information so they have their place, e.g. ‘Have you ever had high blood pressure?’ will enable you to confirm or eliminate information when the client responds with ‘Yes, I have’ or ‘No, I have not’. Sometimes you have to use a closed question if you just require facts, but try to keep them to a minimum. Open questions Open questions provide a hook for the other person to respond to in more detail than simple ‘yes’ or ‘no’ answer, e.g. ‘How did you get to the salon today?’ requires the client to give a more detailed answer, so such questions are good to break the ice. They help build a rapport with the client and out them at ease. A professional therapist will use open or leading questions to help put their new client at ease and draw them out ahead of the consultation, e.g. the following open questions could be asked as she greets the client at the door. What’s the weather doing out there now? How far have you come? Where did you manage to park the car? How did you hear about us? It is better to use open questions than closed questions, such as: Is it still raining? Have you been here before? Did you get the bus? Is this your lunch hour? 8 Preparing the working environment Preparing for waxing is essential. Most wax needs preheating so that the client is not kept waiting. All equipment and materials should be in place to avoid leaving the client alone. Your Position and posture Wear suitable PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) Check list! Disposing of hazardous waste Minimising wastage and ensuring the treatment is cost effective Ensure client’s records are up-todate and accurate Consulting the client You should use appropriate consultation techniques, including visual, questioning and manual checks, to establish the treatment plan for the client. Remember that you should record all details on the client record card and that the clients must give their signed consent before the waxing treatment is carried out. Remember that your consultation should be carried out with sensitivity and tact to give the client confidence. You should conduct the consultation in a polite and friendly manner to find out what the client’s particular needs are. Once you have conducted the consultation, you should be able to decide on the best treatment plan to meet the needs of the client. You should also agree your approach with the client before you begin. 9 Contra-indications and contra-actions Before carrying out each waxing service, you will need to carry out a full and detailed consultation with the client. Checking for contra-indications is a necessary part of the therapist’s role – being able to identify contraindications will mean that you can treat clients successfully without making conditions worse and putting your clients at risk. Contra-indications Contra-indications can be classified into those that restrict and those that prevent treatment: ● ● Restrict means you can adapt your treatment around the contraindication. Prevent means you cannot treat the client until the condition has cleared up or until they obtain a medical referral letter. Contra-indication Effect on treatment Infectious skin disorders/diseases PREVENT – Risk of cross-contamination between therapist and client Open skin RESTRICT – Wax cannot be applied over the affected area but it can be worked around Bruising RESTRICT – Care must be taken when working around the bruise in case it is still tender for the client. Thin, crêpey skin RESTRICT/PREVENT – Clients with diabetes will often have thin skin that can be slow to heal. If in doubt refer the client to their GP. Sunburn PREVENT – Due to skin being hypersensitive, you cannot wax on sunburned skin. Moles RESTRICT – Can be worked around. Petroleum jelly may be applied to the mole to prevent wax from accidently adhering. Recent scar tissue PREVENT – New scars cannot be worked on because of the delicate nature of the skin. Excessive ingrown hairs PREVENT/RESTRICT – Depending on the severity of the problem, ingrown hairs may be worked around. But if there is a large number of infected follicles, the area should be avoided completely until the infection has been treated. Skin tags RESTRICT – Similar to moles – these can be worked around with petroleum jelly being applied if therapist requires; commonly found on underarms. Reactions from previous treatments PREVENT – Until the source of the reaction has been discovered, more patch tests may be required to identify if a product is responsible. 10 Contra-actions These may occur during the treatment or after it has taken place. It is important to give your client full and detailed aftercare advice to help prevent these reactions. Contra-action Action required Erythema Common after waxing, this should go down within 24 hours. The client should avoid perfumed products or hot baths until redness has faded. Blood spotting Common on areas of strong hair growth such as underarms and bikini. The area should be cleaned with cold, damp cotton wool and waste placed in the contaminated waste bin. Bruising Common on bikini line area. The client should be informed and cold compress applied. Bruising should start to fade after 24 hours. Some clients are more prone to bruising – in this case, ensure that you and the client stretch the skin thoroughly. Note the occurrence on the client’s record card. Allergic reaction Clients may react to products at any time. If you suspect a client is reacting to a product, remove all traces of the product immediately and apply a cold compress. The client should be encouraged to do this again at home. If the reaction has not reduced after 24 hours they should seek medical advice. Diminished hair growth This is a positive effect of waxing. Over time the client’s hair may become weaker and some areas may have patches with no hair at all. No action is required. Broken hairs Strong terminal hair can sometimes break during waxing, meaning there will be a quick regrowth. This can occur due to poor technique or inappropriate wax products being used. Hot wax may be more suitable for the client. Swelling in the are Recognised as the area being tender and the skin having a puffy appearance, swelling is caused by the wax having too high a temperature or by the strips being lifted off in an upward motion rather than back on themselves. 11 Ensure client signs consultation form, to say they agree with information and will follow aftercare advice given Wear disposable gloves and change between clients Dispose of single use items – for example, spatulas, cotton wool – after every client Check temperature of wax before applying to client Aprons may be worn Industry codes of practice Keep client records for three years Complete full consultation on every client Ensure client is positioned correctly to reduce risk of injury to therapist or client Sterilise equipment using appropriate techniques; for example, autoclave Perform patch test on new clients Medication Ethnic background Hormones Factors affecting hair growth Hair strength and texture Number of hair follicles Illness Emotion 12 Ensuring the client is satisfied with the finished result The client will appreciate it if you discuss the finished result with her. You can make sure the client is satisfied, and that the agreed treatment plan ahs been met. Carefully check the area over. If necessary, tweeze the odd hair away using sterilised tweezers. Check the results before applying the aftercare lotion, as this makes the skin quite slippery so the odd hair is more difficult to pick up with the tweezers. A mini-massage while applying the aftercare lotion is always very soothing to the nerve endings, and finishes the treatment with a pleasant feeling for the client. Once you have completed the treatment, take time to complete the client record card. Where there any reactions during the treatment that will affect the future treatment plan? Remember, it may not be you doing the treatment next time. Did the client express any preferences or dislikes for waxing mediums? Would you leave anything out next time? Did the client feel much pain? An over-the counter-painkiller could be taken prior to the next treatment. Were products purchased? How was the skin reaction? Were there contra-actions? 13 Products used in waxing The table below identifies the different products used within a waxing treatment. It also highlights the different types of wax available and which type of client each wax is best suited to. Products used Function and description Pre-wax lotion ● A cleansing lotion applied to the skin before wax. ● Removes any dirt and grease that may prevent wax from adhering. Warm wax ● The most common type of wax. ● Melts at 40–43 degrees Celsius. ● The quickest and most convenient wax to use. Cream wax ● Melts at a lower temperature than warm wax, 35–43 degrees Celsius. ● More suitable for sensitive skins. Hot wax ● ● ● ● Sugar paste ● Difficult to master as no strips are used. ● Works at body temperature so is more suitable for fine, unpigmented hair. Strip sugar ● Similar to warm wax but not as effective. ● More suitable for fine, unpigmented hair. After-wax lotion ● Soothing lotion applied after waxing to calm the skin and reduce redness. ● May also prevent open follicles becoming infected. Pre-coated wax strips ● Available in paper or fabric – each therapist often has their own preference. ● Can be cut smaller for different areas of the body. ● Used cold so not as effective as warm or hot wax. More suitable for strong terminal hair. Commonly used for intimate waxing. Melts at 48–68 degrees Celsius. Unsuitable for some skin types because of the high heat involved. 14 Provide aftercare advice It is important that you discuss aftercare and homecare with your client during the consultation, so that skin reactions and contra-actions can be explained and understood. A leaflet to take away is ideal for your client to refer to, as they may not take in all the information, especially if they find the treatment painful. Immediate aftercare Your client should realise that the waxed area will be red abd there may be some blood spots, especially where the hairs are strong, i.e. on the bikini or underarm. The after-wax cleanser should be applied to remove any sticky remains on the skin followed by after-wax soothing lotion to help cool the skin and keep it moisturised. Home care You may like to devise a home care card like the one below Aftercare – for a period of 24 hours No sunbathing or sunbeds Avoid tight clothing Avoid bathing in sea or swimming pool Do not use perfumed products on the area Do not take a hot bath or shower No make-up or self-tanning preparations Do not use deodorant/anti perspirant Do not keep touching or picking at the area Long-term home care advice Encourage your client to look after the skin on her body as they would the skin on their face. Lots of moisturiser will stop the skin becoming too dry, especially in the winter months when legs are kept under trousers and tights. Sloughing the skin with a loofah in the shower will help keep the blood circulation stimulated, bringing lots of oxygen and nutrients to the skin to keep it in good condition. Massage will help remove the build up of toxins in the skin and keep the area both nourished and smooth. Instruct your client to always work towards the lymph nodes to help the body’s natural lymphatic drainage. Exfoliating the skin will help to stop the hairs becoming ingrown. Before leaving the salon, the client should be encouraged to make a repeat appointment, usually in 4-6 weeks. However, this will depend upon the colour and density of the hair and the area. It is important to stress to the client that for effective waxing the hairs should be at the correct length. 15