Off loom weaving
Margherita jan 2014
Below are instructions from various sites. I joined them together for ease of my use, links
for all included. Images from http://www.pinterest.com/marg123reminder/
(((my notes in brackets)))
(((I started one – I lay strips of thread from centre to hoop for correct placement
and length + extra for finishing off. Glued a material disc to top and bottom of
loose ends in the middle – placing ends so disc was as flat as possible.
When it was dry I sewed a spiral to hold it all together before placing the threads
back on the wooden hoop for weaving – it had slits in the wood to hold everything
tight. I made sure the material disc was in correct centre point as I pulled threads
tight)))
Dream Catchers
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Dreamcatcher
http://au.lifestyle.yahoo.com/better-homes-gardens/craft/articles/a/-/5824304/make-your-owndreamcatcher/
http://januarymama.com/2013/06/29/dream-catcher/
Original links above but I joined all the bits together below for comprehensive notes
Step 1 Decide what material to use for the hoop.
If you're using a readymade hoop - skip to step 3.
Step 2 Shape the hoop.
Decide on size of hoop and how you will make it.
1) If making with several loops, length is 2 and a bit X hoop size.
2) If wrapping the length around the hoop, length is 3 and a bit X hoop
Place the willow, cane or grapevine into a bowl of warm water. Allow it to soak
for about half an hour, until it is supple and can bend without breaking.
1) Shape the vine into a circle, making several loops so that your hoop will be
strong. Use a twist tie to fasten the hoop in three places so that it keeps
its shape, and let it completely dry.
2) Make a circle and then wrap the length around the circle, in and out.
Press the hoop under heavy books to ensure that it dries completely flat.
Step 3 Wrapping the hoop,
If not wrapping, skip to step 4.
Use suede, material, ribbon or string.
Length should be at least
8 x the diameter of the hoop you will make.
1) Secure material about 1” in from end of wrap eg leave about an inch
hanging off the end (use clothes pin, tacky glue).
If using glue, once it is dry, start wrapping the hoop.
Tightly wrap with edges touching, but the loops should not overlap.
See figure 1.
2) When you get to just about the end, lay the extra inch you left out onto the
hoop and cover with wrap to secure it. See figure 2.
3) When finished wrapping all the hoop - See figure 4 - 5. Make a loop, insert it
under the second to last wrapping loop, to secure the thong in place. Don’t pull it
all the way thru, but leave a loop the size you want for hanging. Glue down.
Optional Cover
Cut a 2 strips of different fabric, 4cm-wide and 4 x hoop length. Starting at the
top bind 1 fabric clockwise to the halfway point and back up again to
form a double layer. Knot both ends together and leave them loose.
Repeat the process with the other fabric on the other half of hoop.
Step 4 Weaving the first row
Choose a weaving material - string or yarn etc.
Cut a length approx 10 x the circumference of the hoop.
Divide the circle into quarters (((or more if using a large hoop or you want the web
to be very fine and full))) and mark how many loops you want, evenly spaced.
If using beads etc, add to yarn now – either in a pattern or
random. You may need to tie a cotton and needle to the
yarn to pull it thru beads
Wind yarn into a (((flat skein - so that it’s thin enough to go thru the loops))) and
secure with a rubber band.
TIP: If you run out of weaving material in the middle of the web, tie a knot at
the end of your last hitch and hide it with a bead.
Tie one end of your web materiel onto the hoop, next to your hanging loop, on
the opposite side to the direction you will be pulling the web (((the knot will
be held secure at the base of the loop and wont slide))).
(((Use a surgeons knot eg a normal under over knot but go over twice – this holds
the knot and makes it easier to place it where you want and tighten it))).
Working clockwise, move the yarn to the next mark and loop it over the hoop,
threading through the loop to the front again, See Figure 7 – this is a ½ hitch knot.
Your first row around the hoop must be loosely woven eg don’t pull too tight
or too loose
(((I found it easier to lay the loop on the edge of the table and have the part I
was working on hanging off the edge, so I could easily loop the yarn thru the
loops. I held the hoop in my left hand, holding the previous loop secure)))
Continue making loops until you reach the beginning. (((make the last loop on
the other side of the first loop knot so that it doesn’t slip backwards)))
The yarn is slightly loose but will be pulled tighter as you continue weaving.
Step 5 Second and continuing rounds
Your second row will start with weaving into the loop created between the first
and second looped peaks as shown in figure 8. Use the same ½ hitch knot Fig 7.
Continue weaving rounds in this manner till finished.
The tension should be kept tight throughout.
Each knot should fall at the exact midpoint of the string between the knots.
The circle you weave will become smaller and smaller. As it becomes smaller,
pull the yarn tighter and tighter.
If needed thread the yarn onto a needle/wire to finish off the last rows.
You are finished, when the centre hole is the diameter you want.
Step 6 Tie off the end.
When you are finished, tie the end of the yarn over the place where you
would have made the final ½ hitch. Make a double knot to ensure it won't
come undone. Pull it tightly and snip off the end.
Step 7 Decorate
Hang threads, feathers etc. Just get creative.
a few rounds – many rounds
Use doilies
Woven Stars!
http://www.thecraftycrow.net/2010/12/ornament-advent-day-7woven-cookie-stars.html
Make shallow cuts (~¼") around the edge of the shape.
1) Start with two cuts opposite each other
2) then make the next two cuts half-way between the first two cuts, continue
until you have 16 (or more) cuts.
You can cut the thread or work straight from the ball.
Start the thread in a slot (slot 1) a knot isn't necessary, the end of the thread will be
buried securely under the wrapping.
Hold the shape in one hand and wrap the thread with the other hand.
WRAPPING PATTERN
1) start at a top slot and down to a bottom slot eg 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock –
Option - use different slots for different slot patterns eg 12 to 4 etc
The less gap between 12 and the next No the larger the centre shape.
2) move clockwise around the shape, bring thread up and to the RIGHT of
the top slot and down and to the LEFT of the bottom slot
Options - you can either go into 1 slit around the tab and out the next
slit in the above pattern
Eg slit 12 down front to 6 around tab, out 7, up front to1, around
tab, out 2, down front to 8 around tab, out 9, up front to 3 etc
OR wind it round the shape
Eg slit 12 down front to 6 up the back to 1 down the front to 7 up
the back to 2 down the front to 8 etc
Repeat your pattern till round 1 finished (which is when the thread is due to
go back into slot you first started with)
3) For round 2, start thread in the same slot (eg 12 o’clock) but wrap it down
to 1 slot closer to the starting slot on the RIGHT eg if used 6 o’clock go to
5 o’clock).
Repeat your pattern till round 2 finished
4) For round 3, start thread in the same slot (eg 12 o’clock) but wrap it down
to 1 slot closer to the starting slot on the LEFT eg if used 6 o’clock go to
7 o’clock).
Repeat your pattern till round 3 finished.
Te off.
(((I glued 2 pieces of card together and
covered with material cut slits in and wove wool in a 12 – 4 pattern.
For more complex patterns look at, http://www.stringartfun.com/
Create lots of free, beautiful patterns with nails and string.
Weaving Warp and Weft at same time
http://kero1au.tripod.com/id15.html
Frames
You can use a frame and use ½ hitch loops (like dream catcher) to anchor
You can choose where to place the “peg” points – either close together or spread
out for either tight or loose weaving
You will get a square of weaving for art display.
You can leave the weaving on the frame for display
Or you can cut loops to get it off the frame – weave ends in or leave loose.
Or nails in a frame and wrap yarn around.
Or a knitting frame
A frame with nails/pegs allows you to also carry on with knit stitches.
(((The images show weaving across – I found it easier to hold it and go top to bottom.
Find which is comfortable for you.
Instructions below are for her peg loom.
Here are extra points if using ½ hitch knots.
1) The thread that is going across empty space to the hoop
Eg the thread travelling from 3 to 4 and what happens at 4 etc
Look at Fig 7 imagine thread coming in on the left of the image, has just
come from 3. The loop is 4. The arrow part will weave to 5.
2) The thread that has just woven from one “peg” point ready to tie the next.
Eg the thread travelling from 4 to 5 and what happens at 5 etc
Look at Fig 7 imagine thread coming in on the left of the image, has just
come thru the weaving. Leave a bigger loop before going over the frame
than image shows – for ease of pulling thread thru without disturbing the
weaving. The arrow thread part goes across /down to the next “peg” point
ready to do the step 1) ½ hitch)))
Steps
1) Anchor your yarn on a side peg. Now you will be winding the yarn from peg to peg,
basically in a rectangle and the weaving will happen at the same time.
2) Starting at peg 1, take the yarn across to peg 2, around it and then to peg 3,
around that, then across to peg 4.
3) Take the yarn from peg 4 then to peg 5 going under the thread at peg 1
ALL WEAVING –over then under each of the other threads alternately
4) Now take the yarn from peg 5 across to peg 6, weave to peg 7, using the ALL
WEAVING pattern. Keep it loose enough to not pull in the sides but tight enough to
make a solid weaving across the threads.
5) Carry on pattern of across to 8, weave to 9, across to10 etc. As the weaving gets
bigger, remember to go from the weaving to the peg before going across the
empty area to the next peg. So you will have long threads going down beside the
previously woven area as it travels to where it needs to weave.
6) Repeat the winding and weaving till weaving is the shape you want.
7) When finished, you can embellish the weaving with beads hand stitching etc. If
there are big gaps in your weaving, weave extra yarn through, matching the
original weaving, until the mesh is thicker.
If you are using a frame with nails/pegs and want to carry on and knit:
Once your square is finished, do not take the yarn off the loom.
Go to the above link for “how to” steps
More Options
http://www.pinterest.com/pin/318418636126051906/
Different season trees
https://www.facebook.com/Threadnoodle