Sail away: Touring Turkey in a
traditional wooden gulet
OUR writer explored remote villages, hidden bays, fresh local food and paddled in
turquoise seas on a beautiful luxury boat
By: Mary Barber
Published: Daily Express online - Thu, September 18, 2014
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Traditional Turkish sailboats, called gulets, in Hamam Bay [MARY BARBER]
I was lounging on the deck of the traditional wooden gulet when two words in huge letters
appeared above me: “CARPE DIEM”. They were emblazoned on the side of a 550-square metre
sail, which the crew had just hoisted to the top of the mast.
The powerful Latin phrase was the name of the boat but its meaning got me thinking. “Seize the
day”, or “seas the day": as someone joked, was a reminder to live life to the full – not difficult
when on a cruise around Turkey’s stunning Turquoise Coast on a beautiful sailboat.
I had clearly taken the message on board as the next day I got up at 5am to watch the sun rise
over Ekincik Bay, near Dalyan.
As it broke cover over the mountains, the light created a kaleidoscope of colours across the sky
and the still waters below: from inky blue to green to pinks, orange and gold. It also changed the
landscape as shadows formed on the rocky terrain and pine trees, which were hidden in the
night, re-appeared.
The only sound was the gentle splash of the water as it hit the sides of the 36-metre boat.
Sunrise is one of the greatest shows on earth and what an amazing place to see it. Even the
goats seemed impressed. A few had worked their way down the side of the mountain and were
standing on the little beach by the cove.
Several of the other passengers joined me and a member of the crew arrived with a tray of apple
tea, which was lovely on this chilly morning. The temperature would soon climb to a very
pleasant 28C (82F).
The view from a Turkish gulet along the Turquoise Coast [MARY BARBER]
One of the best ways to explore the hidden gems in this part of the Aegean is on a wooden gulet.
Originally fishing boats, they have evolved in recent years into chartered holiday cruise vessels.
And there are few finer than Carpe Diem I, which I had boarded a couple of days earlier in
Sarsala Bay.
The bay, with its lovely beach, is a short drive from Dalaman airport, about a three-hour flight
from the UK. We got to the jetty where two young men in immaculate white uniforms and
designer sunglasses sped towards us in a speedboat – they were to take us out to the gulet,
which was anchored offshore.
Captain Hakan and the rest of his crew welcomed us on board with drinks and a tour. We found
four roomy cabins, each with a beautiful mahogany and teak interior. There were two twins, a
double and a full-beam master bedroom with a double and single bed. All were en-suite with
power showers, excellent toiletries and lots of storage space. And just like a high-end hotel, each
cabin had air-conditioning, a flat screen TV and wi-fi.
The gulet, built in 2003, can accommodate up to nine passengers, which is ideal for friends and
family to share. There were five of us on this trip and we soon settled in to a routine of relaxing
on the comfy loungers on deck, swimming in the clear turquoise sea, snorkelling, exploring – and
eating.
Our chef, Serdar, laid on a banquet for us at every mealtime and in each dish he used the
freshest ingredients. We feasted on delicious local salads, olives, cheese, fruit and home-made
breads for starters. A typical main meal included fish or grilled meat with a selection of desserts
to follow. There were also mid-morning snacks and afternoon tea.
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I went for a swim - before meals - several times a day and often in a different location. Unlike a
typical cruise, Captain Hakan created an itinerary, which he adapted dependent on what we
wanted to see and do.
This included a look around Hamam Bay near Fethiye to explore the remains of a Roman baths
built, allegedly, for Cleopatra. We walked along a footpath next to a pine forest to get a closer
look before we snorkelled back to the gulet, which was anchored in the bay. The snorkels were
among various water sports equipment on board. Kayaking was great fun.
We later set sail for Ekincik Bay. It was the first time we had moved without engine power, and
with it switched off, and the sails hoisted, it was very tranquil. The peace and quiet continued the
next morning at sunrise and later during a leisurely stroll around the ancient ruins at Kaunos.
We took a tour boat along the Dalyan River to the former sea-port, which dates back to the 9th
century BC. There our guide showed us many relics of the past, like the 5,000-seater Roman
amphitheatre and baths.
Thousands of people once lived here, including the Greeks and Persians, but it was abandoned
in the Middle Ages due to malaria. The harbour gradually silted up and it became marshland, full
of reeds and mosquitoes. It is now home to mainly goats and donkeys. The city’s nobility were
buried in impressive Hellenistic style tombs cut into the side of a nearby cliff.
Food on board the cruise [Mary Barber]
As we made our way to the sites, we passed trees laden with lemons, oranges, pomegranates,
apricots and olives. The area is very fertile. Hazelnuts and pistachios are grown here, too, and
the river teams with fish and crabs. It also attracts wildlife and birds such as herons, storks and
flamingos.
We moored at a pier in the small town of Dalyan where we had lunch and bought a few souvenirs
before heading over to the nearby mud baths. Various celebrities have been here, apparently,
including Hollywood actor Dustin Hoffman. It is claimed the mud can cure all manner of ailments,
from aches and pains to skin conditions. We slapped it on and let it dry into a solid crust – we
tried not to crack up every time we moved. A quick plunge under a freezing cold shower to get it
off was followed by a natural thermal spring bath.
Back on the tour boat, the guide took us past a couple of Sea Turtles being fed from the side of a
fishing vessel. The large reptiles breed on nearby Iztuzu Beach, or Turtle Beach. To protect their
eggs, which are buried beneath the sand, visitors are not allowed on the site between 8pm and
8am.
We returned to Carpe Deim I for our final evening of fine dining, relaxing on deck and viewing a
sky full of stars unencumbered by the glare of artificial lights. This feeling of being
“unencumbered” and enjoying life in the moment summed up our four-day gulet cruise.
There had been no rigid itinerary to follow, no roads to navigate, no hotels to book, just the
freedom to explore a beautiful area that, so far, has remained largely untouched by mass
tourism. Carpe deim, indeed.
The gulet visited the mud baths in Dalyan, Turkey [MARY BARBER]
FACT BOX
Carpe Diem I offers luxury private charters, sailing out of Marmaris, Bodrum and Gocek along the
Turkish coast or Rhodes, Kos and other Greek islands. Inclusive rates from £8,000 for seven
nights in low season for up to nine guests and covers all meals and soft drinks, as well as airport
transfers, speedboat and water sports equipment plus chef and crew services.
It does not include flights, speedboat fuel and alcohol. A wine list is offered or stocked with
guests own preference. Tailor-made cruises are usually for seven nights but a shorter cruise is
possible. Late deals are available for end of September and October. Visitdreamcharters.co.uk or
call John on 07966 550 757
Monarch Airlines operates flights to Dalaman from Birmingham, London Gatwick, London Luton,
Leeds Bradford and Manchester. Fares, including taxes, start from £95.99 one way or £171.76
return (monarch.co.uk).
The Turkish Tourist Office provide details about day trips and excursions (gototurkey.co.uk).
Travelodge at Gatwick Airport is a handy place to stay if you have an early flight the next
morning. Rooms from £29 a night (travelodge.co.uk).