HAIR STAINING EFFICACY OF NATURAL COLOR
Worasuda Suwan1, Nisakorn Saewan1
1
School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai 57000, Thailand
E-mail addresses: nana7_77@hotmail.com, nsaewan@mfu.ac.th
Abstract:
The objective of this research is to study and compare the hair staining efficacy of 4
The hair tress was dried with natural derived color, Mignonette Tree, Catechu Tree rubber,
Beleric myrobalan and Ebony with a solvent mixture of ethanol and water in a ratio of 1 : 1.
Mignonette Tree extract has brown orange (2.8%). The Catechu Tree rubber extract was
obtained as brown and dark red solid (4.367%). The anchor Beleric myrobalan extract has
brown (16.2%) and the Ebony extract has brown to black (12.6%). The mixture of the extract
and Ammonium hydroxide in the ratio 1 : 1 liquid for 2, 6 and 24 hours. The hair tress that
dyed with Mignonette Tree extract has bright shining mahogany brown and blonde. The hair
tress that dyed with Catechu Tree rubber extract has red to brown. Beleric myrobalan has
small greenish brown caramel. Extract from Ebony has the brown light blonde. When watch
hair scale under a microscope, found that hair that dyed with synthetic dyes have more
damaged than hair that dyed with natural colors. Then evaluate the stability of the dye by
repeated shampoo several times and measured the color by using a colorimeter. It showed
that the dyed hair with these extracts has stability of color lower by order as fellows; the
synthesis < Beleric myrobalan extract < Ebony extract < Catechu extract < Mignonette Tree
extract.
Keywords: Permanent hair dyes, Acacia catechu, Diospyru smollis, Lawsonia inermis L,
Terminalia bellirica
1. Introduction
Hair dye product use for change white and gray hairs color into black or change
nature hair color into colorful for more attraction, Therefore this product are all through
popular in teenager and along with the elder person in currently to be used for cover up the
white hairs, beautify and increase more confidence. Permanent hair dye products are popular
and have high market share up to 80% of all hair dye product. The product consists of
permanent hair dyes and synthetic dyes must be in the process of oxidation in a long time
which may increase the risk of cancer (1). This type of Hair coloring products may have the
effect of the mutation. While the natural hair dye substances are harmless and more use of
herbs as colorants (2).
The use of herbal hair dye, herbal color is coated onto the outer layer of the hair. No
change in the structure of the hair. This Hair coloring products are classified as temporary
hair dyes. The use of hair dye from the plant as an alternative to avoid the dangers that may
have arisen from the use of synthetic hair dye products often (3).
This study aims to determine the color of hair dyed with 4 herbals consist of
Lawsonia inermis L. (Tian king), resin of Acacia catechu (Si seat nuea), fruit of Terminalia
bellirica (Sa Mor Pi Pek) and Diospyru smollis (Ma kuea) with many recipes for dyeing hair
from Tian king. This study had an interest and aim to compare the color of dyed hair from 4
kinds of Thai herbal products for hair dye as a substitute for the synthesis hair dye, which
may cause harm and promote to use Thai herbs, develop Thai herbs products for value-added
products and the consumer safety.
3. Methods
3.1 Finding an appropriate solvent for extraction: Extract 5 g. of plant in 50 ml of solvent
for 24 hours; use 3 types of solvents which are ethanol, water and mixture of ethanol and
water. After that, use this extract to be measured by UV absorption in the range 200-600 nm.
3.2 Extraction: Dried of Tian king, resin of Si seat nuea, fruit of Sa Mor Pi Pek and Ma kuea
were crushed in grinding then were extracted with a mixture of ethanol and water at room
temperature for 3 days. Already filter with whatman no.1 filter paper and the solvent was
removed under reduced pressure by rotary evaporator.
3.3 The stability of extract’s physical chemistry: Appearance and pH were evaluated by
visual observation and pH meter.
3.4 The bleached hair: Prepare a 0.5 g. of tress about 45 tresses, cleaned and dried. After
that, bleaches tresses for similar shade with 12% hydrogen peroxide for 45 minutes. After
shampooing, rinse thoroughly and dry with hair dryer.
3.5 Staining: Mix crude extracts 5 g. and ammonium hydroxide 5 ml. Use all of 45 bleached
tresses to soak in beakers for 9 tresses per each beaker, soaked by solvent from 3.3.4.1 for 2,
6 and 24 hours respectively. Rinse 2 times thoroughly. Dye 9 tresses with permanent hair dye
product then hair dryer and air dry.
3.6 The shade compare and evaluate: Observe the differences of 36 natural color dyed
tresses and 9 synthetic dyed tresses, compare with bleached tresses to compared left 45
tresses by using microscopic and colorimeter as following:
1. Tian king extract dyed hair.
2. Resin of Si seat nuea extract dyed hair.
3. Fruit of Sa Mor Pi Pek extract dyed hair.
4. Ma kuea extract dyed hair.
5. Synthetic dyed hair.
3.7 The staining efficacy compare and evaluate: The staining efficacy was evaluated by
colorimeter. Compare the shade of dyed hair tresses by L, a, b value before and after
shampoo and dried continue 20 times.
4. Results and Discussion
4.1 Finding a suitable solvent for extraction.
Determine the appropriate extraction solvent for the herbs by soaking 5 g. in ethanol
water and mixture of ethanol and water. The study showed that mixture of ethanol and water
is the most suitable solvent for extraction, considering by Physical Appearance of extract
mixture. The ethanol and water extract showed the darkest color then water extract and
ethanol extract respectively. (Table 4.1) The intensity of the extract color such a result is
consistent with the absorption spectrum as shown in Figure 4.1 The mixture of ethanol and
DI water was the suitable solvent for extraction.
Absorbance
EtOH:DI
3.00
EtOH
2.00
Absorbance
DI
4.00
4.00
DI
3.00
EtOH:DI
EtOH
2.00
1.00
1.00
0.00
200.0
0.00
200.0
400.0
Wavelenght (nm)
600.0
a
400.0
Wavelenght (nm)
600.0
b
Figure 4.1 UV spectrum of a) Tian king b) Sa Mor Pi Pek extracts
4.2 Extraction
The extracts were obtained as orange-brown solid (2.8%), dark reddish brown solid (4.37%),
brown viscous liquid (16.2%), and dark brown viscous liquid (12.6%) for Tian king, Si seat
nuea, Sa Mor Pi Pek and Ma kuea extracts, respectively. The appearance of extract was
shown in Table 4.2.
Table 4.1 The appearance of extracts in
different solvent
Plant/
Solvent
Tian
king
Si seat
nuea
Sa Mor
Pi Pek
Ma
kuea
Ethanol DI water
Mixture
of
EtOH
and DI
water
Table 4.2 The appearance of extracts
Yeild
(%)
2.8
5.11
Si seat
nuea
4.37
6.21
Sa Mor
Pi Pek
16.2
3.84
Ma kuea
12.6
4.13
Extract
Tian
king
Appearance
pH
4.4 Bleached hair and staining.
The bleached hair tresses were dyed with solution of the extracts and ammonium hydroxide
(1:1) and the mixture was dyed on the hair tress showed the extracts give intense reddish
brown hair colors for Tian king and orange-brown hair color for Si seat nuea extracts, while
Sa Mor Pi Pek and Ma kuea give pale greenish brown and blonde, respectively. The time of
staining increase of color’s intense. The appearance of hair was shown in Table 4.3.
4.5 Evaluation of hair color efficacy
When observe the cuticle by microscopic to compare synthesis hair dye and natural hair dye
showed the the cuticle of synthetic dyed hair was damaged than the natural color dyed hair
(Figure 4.2).
For long lasting efficacy study, the cuticle of synthetic dyed hair showed stronger damaged
than the natural color dyed hair. For the long lasting color hair dyed study was decreased in
order: synthesis dye < Sa Mor Pi Pek extract < Ma kuea extract < Si seat nuea extract < Tian
king extract (Table 4.4).
Table 4.3 The appearance of hair
Sample
Tian king
Si seat nuea
Sa Mor Pi Pek
Ma kuea
Synthetic hair dye
Commercial hair dye (Plug-Sa)
Commercial hair dye (Easy Quick Care)
Before
Staining
2 hrs
6 hrs
24 hrs
Color
index
a)
b)
c)
d)
e)
f)
g)
h)
Figure 4.2 The appearance of hair under microscope a) hair bleached, b) synthetic hair dye,
c) Ma kuea, d) Sa Mor Pi Pek, e) Tian king, f) Si seat nuea, g) Commercial hair dye (Plug-Sa)
and h) Commercial hair dye (Easy Quick Care)
Table 4.4 The appearance of hair after shampoo
Shampoo
0
5
10
20
Tian king
Si seat nuea
Sa Mor Pi
Pek
Ma kuea
Synthetic
hair dye
5. Conclusion
The natural hair dye including Tian king, Si seat nuea, Sa Mor Pi Pek, and Ma kuea
extracts is alternative to be used in hair color cosmetic due to its give the beautiful and long
lasting hair color (especially Tian king and Si seat nuea extracts) not caused hair damaged
(especially Sa Mor Pi Pek extract) and no harmful for hair and scalp.
6. Acknowledgements
This independent study succeeds with great assistance of Dr.Nisakon Saewan,
chairman advisor of School of Cosmetic Science Mae Fah Luang University and other
teachers from various institutions. Acknowledge to my father, my mother, my brother, my
friends, my seniors and junior for encouragement and support in many ways.
7. References
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2. สุมนทิพย์ คงตัน. การพัฒนาสี ยอ้ มผมถาวรจากพืชสมุนไพร. 2551.
3. อรัญญา มโนสร้อย. เทคโนโลยีและนวัตกรรมใหม่ของผลิตภัณฑ์เครื่ องสาอางสาหรับเส้นผม: เอกสารประกอบการเรี ยนการสอน
สานักวิชาวิทยาศาสตร์เครื่ องสาอาง. เชียงราย: มหาวิทยาลัยแม่ฟ้าหลวง; 2551.