Rabbit Care Sheet
Female rabbit – Doe
Male rabbit – Buck
Baby rabbit – Kit
Husbandry
 Hutch Size – These a few guide lines to follow when picking a hutch for
your new rabbit:
Your rabbit must be able to stand up in the hutch without their ears
touching the roof.
Your rabbit must be able to lie down stretched out in all directions.
A hutch should be long enough for your rabbit to be able to do 3 hops in.
Each rabbit should have their own sleeping space to prevent stress and
aggression.
 Runs,
A run should be big enough to allow your rabbit to run not just hop.
Any open runs should have fences big enough to prevent your rabbit
jumping out and predators jumping in, also take into account rabbits are
very good diggers, it is advised to dig down any fences.
 Adequate ventilation in a hutch is required to deter flies
 Hutches should be thoroughly cleaned weekly and their toilet areas
cleaned out every second day.
 Rabbits like to play and be mental stimulated, hiding places, digging pits
and suitable chew toys should be provided.
 Rabbits are cold weather tolerant, but protections such as thermal covers
or moving them indoors should be considered when the weather drops
below freezing.
 In the summer rabbits should be monitored during the heat, and shade,
water and possible a fan should be provided.
 Rabbits will chew anything, especially wires. If you plan to have a house
rabbit it is advised you rabbit prove your home first.
 If you are having a house rabbit, they can be litter trained just like a cat.
 Rabbits will learn to use a cat flap.
Company
Rabbits are sociable animals, being on their own can cause stress and
obesity (due to low activity levels). It is best to keep a neutered buck with a
neutered doe.
Unneutered rabbits will fight despite sex, and should not be kept together.
It is not advised to keep guinea pigs with rabbits, as rabbits are prone to
bullying.
Handling
When picking up a rabbit, approach from the front, place one hand round
the rabbit’s ears or shoulder and the other hand should support its hind
quarters, gently lift the rabbit taking the weight on the hand supporting the
rear and hold the rabbit into your body.
Rabbits are prone to kicking out with their hind quarters, be aware of this it
can cause you to drop them, or they can even injury there backs.
Nutrition
 The main part of any rabbit’s diet should be good quality fibre. A lack of
fibre in a rabbits diet can cause the gut to slow down and even stop, it
can also contribute to dental issues.
 Avoid muesli style foods as a rabbit will pick out their favourite bits
causing nutritional imbalance and obesity.
 The diet for an average sized rabbit should be made up of the following;
A pile of hay the size of the rabbit – hay should make up 80% of a rabbits
diet, it should be good quality feeding hay (not bedding hay) and have a
fibre content of 18-24%
Egg cup of pellets
Tea cup of greens
 Good greens include kale, spinach and cabbage. You can give a few
starchy vegetable but only as treats theses include carrots, turnips and
parsnips.
 Guinea pig food should not be fed to rabbits, as the vitamin D and
vitamin C requirements are very different.
Behaviour
 Aggressive behaviour might be caused by stress or emotional suffering –
look at the husbandry and social environment first.
 Rabbits need hiding places or they can feel under constant threat causing
distress, anxiety or aggression.
 Allow suitable areas for digging such as sand or earth pits to allow the
expression of natural behaviour, this will help reduce stress.
 Subtle changes to the environment, for example changes to hiding places
and toys will help prevent boredom.
 Rabbits can be trained for example to jump fences; this can increase
mental stimulation and prevent obesity.
 Bucks will mark their territory this is normal, neutering may help.
 Entire bucks will mount random objects this again is normal behaviour.
 Thumping is a warning sign or a threat.
 Growling/grunting is a sign of aggression.
 Chin rubbing is a normal scenting behaviour.
 Hair pulling may be caused by parasite, a nutritional problem or stress.