Friday,19th October. Eaton Hall
I awoke at 6 and got up at ½ past 6. At ½ past 7 we breakfasted. At 5 minutes past ½ past 8 we
went away, Lord Westminster himself being at the door and his horses were put to our carriage;
some of the Yeomanry going with us. At 5 minutes to 9 we arrived at Chester, the street where
the inn was, was lined on one side with infantry and on the other side by yeomanry with Lord
Grosvenor and Lord Robert at their head. Lord Grosvenor went on in front with his troop; and
Lord Robert remained riding on my side and a Mr. Brook on the other. Lord Robert rode a
lovely mare. They went on a good way with us and when they left us which they did some
miles from Chester, Sir Philip Egerton's troop escorted us.
1 minute to ½ past 11. We have just passed through Northwich, where we were most civilly
received. The little charity girls strewed the way with flowers, and flags hung from the
windows. At 12 we arrived at Knutsford where we were most civilly received, the streets being
sanded in shapes which is peculiar to this town. We lunched there with Lord Grey, son of Lord
Stamford, Mr. Wilbraham and Mr. Egerton. We left it at 6 minutes past 1; the yeomanry still
accompanying us.
5 minutes to 2. We just passed by a little village where my name was written, not in ink but
with flowers and pink bows.
20 minutes to 3. We have just changed horses at Macclesfield, a large manufacturing town. We
were escorted by a new corps of the same yeomanry.
¼ to 4. The yeomanry have just left us.
6 minutes past 4. We have just passed under a bridge over which the railways go. The country
since Macclesfield has been very hilly, sterile and dreary. There are some limekilns burning
here. The trees have come back again a little and it is prettier.
½ past 4. We have just changed horses at Buxton, which is a pretty place. The houses are well
built and form a crescent. The country about here is very pretty, high rocks covered with trees.
There are all about here little rivulets and fountains, rippling over stones. At ½ past 6 we
arrived at Chatsworth, which is a beautiful house. It was quite dark. It is built in the shape of a
square joined by an arch under which one must drive. We were met at the door by the Duke of
Devonshire who conducted us up the staircase, which is made of wood, to our apartments
which are indeed beautiful. In the corridor there are some beautiful statues. I dined by myself in
my own room with Lehzen. I stayed up till ½ past 8. I was soon in bed and asleep.
Saturday, 20th October.
I awoke at ½ past 7 and got up at 8. At a little past 9 we breakfasted, us 5 by ourselves in a
lovely room giving on the park and garden where one could see a cascade which ran all the way
down. The room is small; the ceiling is painted and represents some mythology with books
round the room and a splendid carpet. At about 11 we went over the house with the company
which consisted of Lord and Lady Cavendish, Lord and Lady Newburgh, Mr. and Lady
Caroline Lascelles, Count Karoly, Mrs.Arkwright, Lady Clifford, Lord and Lady Wharnecliffe,
Mrs.Talbot, Lord Morpeth, Mr.Cooper, Mr.Henry Greville, and Miss Fanny Cavendish. It
would take me days, were I to describe minutely the whole. We went all over the house, and
the carving of the frame-work of some looking-glasses were quite beautiful; they are
carved in the shape of birds, the plumage being so exquisite that if it was not of the colour
of wood one might take them for feathers. It not only surrounds the mirrors but the
ceilings of some of the rooms. We saw Lady Cavendish's little boy who is 10 months old, a
beautiful child. We likewise saw the kitchen which is superb for its size and cleanliness;
and the confectionary which is as pretty and neat. The Duke's own apartments contain
some superb statues of Canova and others; likewise a beautiful collection of minerals. We
saw the library and dinind-room which are all beautiful. The library's ceiling is painted in
figures; and the carpet is beautiful. The conservatory which leads from the dining-room is
very pretty. We then walked out in the garden, I went into another conservatory which
contains a rockery with water falling from it. There are some curious plants there,
amongst others two which are worthy of remark; the one is called the pitcher plant
because at the end of each leaf hangs a little bag or pitcher which fills with the dew and
supplies the plant when it wants water; the other is called the fly-catcher plant, because
whenever a fly touches it, it closes. From the conservatory we went and looked at a
monkey which is in the garden, chained. We then went to the cascade and saw some other
fountains very curious and pretty. When we had come on the terrace the Duke wished us
to plant two trees down under the terrace. So we did, I planted an oak and Mamma a
Spanish chesnut. After that we went upon the terrace again and went up a platform which
had been arranged with carpets, to view the cricket-match below; the Buxton band
playing “God save the King” and the people hurraying and others under tents looked very
pretty. From there we went to the stables where we saw some pretty ponies and a Russian
coachman in his full dress, and the only Russian horse which remained reared at
command; there were 3 other horses, English ones, but trained like the other. At about ½
past 1 we came home and lunched with the whole party. At ½ past 2 we went in a carriage and
6 with the Duke and Mrs.Cavendish, to Haddon Hall, a very old and singular place. The old
tapestry still remaining and iron hooks to keep it back. We them went to the Rookery, a small
cottage belonging to the Duke on the banks of the river Wye, very pretty and cool. From there
we walked to the Marble Mills and saw how they sawed and polished the marble. There was a
little cottage where they sold Derbyshire spar in different little shapes and forms and some
pieces of marble too. We then drove home after having bought a good many things. We came in
at 5. At 7 we dined and after dinner at about ½ past 9 we looked at the cascade illuminated,
which looked very pretty, and the fountain, blue lights, red lights, rockets etc. At about 10 the
charade began in 3 syllables and 4 scenes. The first act was a scene out of Bluebeard; Lady
Caroline Lascelles and Miss. F.Cavendish acting the ladies, and Count Karoly as Blue Beard,
with Lord Newburgh and Mr.Lascelles as their friends. The next act was a scene of carrying
offerings to Father Nile; Mrs. Talbot, Lady Cavendish, Lady Clifford, Miss Cavendish, and the
two Miss Smiths as the vestals; and Lord Morpeth, Lord Newburgh, Count Karoly,
Mr.Greville, Sir A. Clifford, Mr.Cooper, and Mr. Lascelles as the men. Mr.Beaumont as Father
Nile. The third act was a scene of Tom Thumb; Lord Morpeth as Tom Thumb, and Lord
Newburgh as the nurse. The 4th act was a scene out of Kenilworth (which was the word);
Mrs.Talbot as Queen Elizabeth, Lady Cavendish as Amy, Lady Caroline and Miss Cavendish
(who danced the menuet with Count Karoly) as her attendants, little Georgina Lascelles as page
to bear the Queen's train, Lord Morpeth as Lord Leicester, Lord Newburgh as an attendant,
Count Karoly as Lord Shrewsbury, Mr.Cooper as Sir Walter Rawly, and Lord Waterpark and
Mr.Greville as two more men of the Queen's, not to omit Lady Clifford as the Queen's lady, and
Sir Augustus as a gentleman of the Queen. They were all in regular costumes. When it was
over, which it was at ¼ to 12, I went to bed. I was soon in bed and asleep.
Sunday, 21st October.
I awoke at about ½ past 7 and got up at 8. I was ready dressed by a little to 9. At half past 9 we
breakfasted. At 11 we went to chapel. It is a fine chapel with two marble statues very well done.
At a ¼ to 2 we lunched, Lady Caroline bringing her two beautiful little girls, Georgina and
Henrietta, downstairs. After luncheon Lady Cavendish brought her pretty little boy downstairs
that we might see him. At about a ¼ to 3 we went out walking and walked to a little grotto
which is very pretty. Then we came back to the house and Mamma and me drove in front in the
pony phaeton and the Duke and Lady Cavendish behind; Lady Catherine and Lehzen going in
another little phaeton; while Lord Morpeth and Mr.Cooper went in the Russian drotchky. This
curious carriage is drawn by one horse (which was the piebald one) in the shafts with a houp
over its head, and the harness is golden without any winkers, and the horse in the shafts always
trots, while the other, a pretty ches- nut one, always gallops and puts its head on one side; the
coachman, called Peter, sitting in his full dress on the box and driving the horses without any
whip. We drove up to an old tower from where we walked along the rocks, a very wild
romantic and pretty walk, and it was likewise a very long walk. We met Mrs.Talbot, Miss
Fanny Cavendish and Count Karoly in the beginning of the walk, who had walked to meet us;
they walked home but we met the carriages. We came in at 5. At 7 we dined, and the band
playing as it did yesterday. I forgot to mention yesterday the beautiful and magnificent plateau,
made entirely of frosted silver, in figures quite beautiful. After dinner Mrs. Arkwright sung
“Rise up, rise up Xarissa”, and “Roland the brave”, quite beautifully, so sweet, so articulate and
with so much expression. I stayed up till a ¼ past 9. I was soon in bed and asleep.
Monday, 22nd October.
I awoke at a little to 8 and got up at 8. At a ¼ to 9 we breakfasted and at 10 we set off for
Hardwicke Hall. We went in a carriage and 6, the Duke and Lady Caroline being with us.
Besides our ladies and Sir John, there went, Lord and Lady Newburgh, Lord and Lady
Cavendish, Mr.Lascelles Lady Wharncliffe, Mrs.Talbot, Count Karoly, Mrs.and Miss
Cavendish, and Mr.Cooper. When we passed through Chesterfield, where we were very civilly
received, the Mayor and Corporation besides the bands and other people preceded us. We
arrived at Hardwicke at about 1, and went over the house which is very curious and old but yet
so liveable that it looks as if it was not so old as it is. The room where Mary Queen of Scots is
supposed to have been confined is very curious, the window through which she was watched is
very singular in the wall. A correct descriptin of Hardwicke may be found in Guides. At about 2
we lunched, and afterwards went on the leads of the house where we saw a lovely and very
extensive view. We then walked a little way in the park and then returned home with Lady
Newburgh in the carriage. At 5 we arrived at home. At 7 we dined, the band playing as before.
After dinner Mrs. Arkwright sung a song which she had composed on purpose for me, and
presented it to me; the poetry being likewise composed by her and the whole written in her own
handwriting. She then sung that once more, and afterwards “Beth Gelert” which she sung
admirably. I then sung a little song and then we went into the small library to see firewords.
They were rockets, wheels, windmills, red and blue lights, etc. etc.; but towards the end
Mamma was taken unwell and was obliged to leave the room, when the prettiest part began. I
stayed on and saw a temple and my name in stars and a crown. I stayed up till 10, Mamma
being better but not able to come back. I was soon in bed and asleep.
Tuesday, 23rd October.
I awoke at a little past 7 and got up at ½ past 7. At a ¼ to 9 we breakfasted, and at a little after
10 we set out for Belper, where the cotton manufactory is, with the company which consisted of
Lord and Lady Newburgh, Lord Cavendish, Mr.and Lady Caroline Lascelles, Count Karoly,
Lord and Lady Wharncliffe, Mrs.Talbot, Mr. Cooper, Sir A.Clifford, and Lord Morpeth and
Miss Cavendish etc. etc. Lady Cavendish and the Duke went in our carriage and 6. We were
very well received at Matlock as we passed by. We arrived at Mr.Strut's cotton mill at Belper
where we were likewise very well received. We drove to Mr.Strut's house, after having seen the
manufactory which is very curious and interesting. We took luncheon there, and left it at ½ past
2 with Lady Wharncliffe in our carriage. The Duke having brought one of his albums to look at.
When we arrived at Matlock we went to both Museums and bought a good many things there
and looked at the petrifying well. We arrived at home at ½ past 5. Lady Caroline brought her
two little girls and I gave them a little remembrance. At 7 we dined. I have forgot to mention
who sat next to me at dinner in the evenings, the first day Lord Vernon, the second Lord
Morpeth, the third Lord Wharncliffe, and the fourth Count Karoly. After dinner Mrs. Arkwright
sung and we sung. I stayed up till ½ past 10 after having taken leave of all the ladies. I was
soon in bed and asleep.
Wednesday, 24th October.
I awoke at ½ past 6 and got up very soon after. At about a little after 8 we breakfasted.
¼ past 9. We have just left Chatsworth, but not without great regret; we had been so happy
there. Lady Cavendish, Mrs. Arkwright, Mrs.Talbot, Count Karoly, and a good many others
waving their handkerchiefs on the terrace. The Yeomanry going with us.
6 minutes to 12. We have just changed horses at Ashbourne: 1 minute past 12. The yeomanry
have just left us.
At 1 we arrived at Alton Towers, the seat of Lord Shrewsbury. This is an extraordinary house.
On arriving one goes into a sort of gallery filled with armour, guns, swords, pistols, models,
flage, etc.etc; then into a gallery filled with beautiful pictures and then by a conservatory with
birds. We lunched there and the luncheon was served on splendid gold plate. We then walked in
the gardens. At ½ past 2 we left it.
7 minutes to 4. We have just changed horses at Uttoxeter where we were very friendly received;
and Lord Lichfield's own horses were put to our carriage. We lassed through Lord Bagot's part
on our way. At about ½ past 5 we arrived at Shugborough, the place of Lord Lichfield. I and
Lehzen dined alone in Mamma's sitting-room. I stayed up till ½ past 8. I was soon in bed and
asleep.