Streams, Wetlands, and Water Quality Protection
Watersheds – Everyone Lives in a Watershed
Watersheds and their hydrological features provide key functions to natural ecosystems. Destroying or
altering these features in any way can have a huge impact upon the natural environment. A watershed
is defined as an area of land where all of the water that falls upon it, is under it, or drains off of it,
converges into specific lakes, rivers, streams, wetlands, or oceans. Watersheds are bounded by
topographical high points known as divides, such as ridges, hills, or mountaintops. Watersheds come in
different shapes and sizes, with the larger being divided into smaller sub-basins. Our actions on the land
directly affect the water quality and quantity for all communities living downstream.
Water Rights
Because water is less abundant in the western U.S., this part of the country has developed the
appropriation of water and water sources through water laws and the issue of “Water Rights” – the right
to make use of the water from a particular stream, lake, or irrigation canal. Water Rights are assigned to
the land. When the land changes ownership, the Water Rights stay with the land and transfer to the
new owner. Before doing anything with an accessible water source on your property, be sure you are
aware of who owns the water rights.
How Safe Is Your Drinking Water?
 Do you have a drainfield or livestock corral less than 100 feet from your drinking well or stream?
 Is your well downhill from contamination sources (such as septic system, pesticides, fertilizer,
animal manure, petroleum storage, or other pollutants)?
 Are your streambanks bare of vegetation, eroding, or falling into the stream?
 Has it been more than a year since you tested your drinking water supply?
 Do your well tests show fecal or nitrate contamination above the safe drinking water standards?
 Do you own a dug or driven well rather than a drilled well?
 Is your well more than 20 years old?
 Is your well casing (well pipe) less than 12 inches above ground and/or 19 feet below ground?
 Is there an earth depression around your well casing or does the casing have cracks or holes?
 Do you have any abandoned wells on your property?
 Is your drinking water well shallow (less than 50 feet deep)?
If you answered “yes” to any of these questions, you will want to take immediate action to correct the
problem. Get help!
1
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Agricultural Water Quality Concerns
Low Stream Flows
Low flows cause increased water temperature and changes in pH and dissolved oxygen. Increased
stream flows, especially during summer months, can help to reduce or eliminate these problems.
Conserve water by irrigating efficiently.
Soil Erosion
Excess soil in streams can silt in fish habitat and clog irrigation pumps. Soil most likely enters streams
through eroding streambanks, soil-laden irrigation runoff from fields, eroding rangelands, and poorly
designed and maintained roads and culverts. You must prevent soil from eroding into streams. You
may also need to prevent excess soil from entering irrigation ditches, depending on where the water is
going.
Nutrients
Nutrients are elements like nitrogen and phosphorus that are found in manure and fertilizer. They help
plants grow, but in excess they can cause algae blooms that remove the oxygen needed by fish and
water critters for survival. Excess nitrogen can also pollute drinking water from wells. You must prevent
your valuable manure or fertilizers from entering creeks and irrigation ditches.
Pesticides
Improper application of pesticides can harm people, livestock, fish, and wildlife. Pesticides must be
applied as indicated on the label.
Bacteria
The bacteria known as E. Coli can harm humans. You should prevent manure from entering
groundwater, creeks, and irrigation ditches to protect yourself and your neighbors. If you have a large
number of animals confined in a dirt lot or stable, you may need a Confined Animal Feeding Operation
(CAFO) permit.
Streamside Vegetation
Plants help stabilize streambanks, filter potential pollutants out of water flowing over the ground, and
shade the water. Agricultural activities must allow plants to provide these functions.
Non-Agricultural Water Quality Concerns
Leaking septic systems, improper pesticide applications on lawns and gardens, inappropriate off-road
vehicle use, and suburban runoff can contribute to water quality concerns.
Tips to Prevent Water Pollution
 Establish and maintain shrubs and grasses along streams and around animal confinement areas
to trap and absorb pollution-laden runoff before it reaches streams or groundwater.
 Locate corrals and other livestock confinement areas away from streams. Use water gaps or offstream stockwater tanks to minimize livestock trampling of streambanks.
 Avoid over-irrigation that can cause valuable topsoil, fertilizer, and pesticide runoff.
2
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org








Properly dispose of manure, feed, and bedding wastes by spreading on your cropland. Be sure
soil is not too wet or frozen to absorb wastes. This will reduce your need for expensive
commercial fertilizers.
Locate corrals, septic systems, and fuel storage tanks downslope of your drinking water well – at
least 100 feet away. (Check with your local permitting on exact requirements.) Factors such as
location of your well to surface drainage courses and direction of groundwater flow also are
important.
Use farming practices that reduce soil erosion and increase water infiltration, such as minimum
tillage, contour farming, filter strips, and grassed waterways.
Do not mix, apply, or dispose of weed control chemicals, used motor oil, or other toxic
substances near streams or where they can leak into groundwater. Contact your county health
department for the best method of disposal in your area.
Keep soil covered with vegetation to prevent erosion
Maintain septic systems
Practice Integrated Pest Management (IPM) (See information on Integrated Pest Management
in the section Predators and Pest Control.)
Avoid over-fertilizing
Improving Water Quality with Best Management Practices (BMP’s)
Terraces: When terraces are installed, erosion
is controlled by slowing water runoff on the
surface and moving it to a vegetated or pipe
outlet. Topsoil is maintained in the field and
gullies are prevented.
Grassed Waterway: This practice reduces
erosion in areas where water concentrates. It
should be vegetated with an adaptable grass or
grass-legume mixture. Proper construction of
waterways and maintenance of vegetation
provide an adequate erosion free outlet in
sloping fields.
3
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Conservation Tillage: This practice is part of a
cropping system that retains protective
amounts of crop residues on the soil surface
throughout most of the year. This system
combines reducing and delaying tillage with
winter cover such as crop residues or winter
annuals. Besides reducing soil loss 50% - 90%,
this practice lowers costs, reduces soil
compaction, improves soil tilth, conserves soil
moisture and retards the loss of nutrients and
pesticides.
Filter Strips: Filter strips are permanently
vegetated sections of land established
downslope of agricultural operations to control
erosion and slow, reduce, or eliminate
pollutants from entering an adjacent
waterbody.
Waste Utilization: Waste Utilization is the use
of animal wastes on land in an environmentally
acceptable manner while maintaining or
improving soil and plant resources. This
practice safely uses wastes to provide fertility
for crop, forage, or fiber production; to
improve or maintain soil structure; to prevent
erosion; and safeguard water resources.
Sediment Basin: Sediment basins are short
earth embankments constructed across the
slope and minor watercourses used to trap
sediment, reduce erosion and improve water
quality. They can be used on fields where
concentrated runoff is causing erosion that
cannot be controlled by vegetation or residue
alone.
4
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Slotted Board Riser: When installed in a
drainage system, these structures can be used
to hold water on fields long enough for
sediment to settle out. These structures also
can be used to control the discharge rate of
water leaving the field to create wildlife
habitat.
Cover Crop: Cover Crops are close growing
legumes, or small grains grown primarily to
control erosion during periods when the major
crops do not furnish adequate cover; add
organic material to the soil; and improve
infiltration, aeration and tilth.
Landscaping for Water Quality
You don’t need to own shoreline to have an effect on water quality. Rain water from every property
goes to a stream or a lake, or to groundwater. On the way it picks up contaminants from roofs,
driveways, and yards. Runoff affects fish, your drinking water, and contributes to flooding. There are
several ways to reduce stormwater runoff or improve water quality.
Ways to reduce and/or treat storm water:
Rain Barrels capture rain from your roof’s gutter system. The barrel has a spigot so the water can be
used later for watering plants. Each barrel acts as a filter to keep debris and mosquitoes out and built-in
overflow for large rains. A 50-gallon rain barrel will fill quickly – a one-inch rainfall on a 1,000 square
foot roof (small house or garage) yields 617 gallons of water.
Permeable Pavers are an alternative to concrete. They let water soak through and can be used for
sidewalks, patios, and driveways.
Buffers of native grasses and wildflowers around ponds, lakes, streams, and wetlands will help filter
runoff before it enters the waterbody. They have the added benefit of vastly improving the waterbody’s
value to wildlife. A recommended starting width for buffers is 50 feet to have both wildlife and water
quality benefits but any buffer is an asset. Your local conservation district can help you with buffer
designs and cost share grants for stream or lakeshore properties.
5
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Rain Gardens look great but they also have a hidden function. These gardens are planted in small
depressions and use specially structured soils that allow large amounts of storm water to soak in. Rain
water from house gutters and driveways are directed into the garden. It is planted with native plants
that can tolerate flooding, but thrive when it is dry too. These plants have deep root systems that help
the water soak in quickly. Pollutants are filtered out of the water by the roots and soils. Mosquitoes
can’t breed in a rain garden because it only holds water for a few hours. Assistance designing and
installing a rain garden is available from your local conservation district. Cost share grants are also
occasionally available.
Protecting Water Quality
Rural Water Systems:
These systems ensure a clean, reliable source for drinking water. Homes not connected to rural water
may submit requests to the rural water system for connection. If approved, connection costs, including
pipeline establishment and permitting may be the sole responsibility of the homeowner.
Wells:
Groundwater accumulates from precipitation and is stored beneath the surface of the earth. It fills
cracks, pores and crevices of underground materials. Many rural homes and businesses rely completely
on groundwater for their source of potable water.
As a water supply, groundwater is actually preferable to surface water from rivers, lakes or streams.
Groundwater requires minimum treatment and quality and temperature is usually uniform. When
properly managed, groundwater is a dependable source of supply that is accessed by drilling wells.
Yearly maintenance and upkeep of a well is good practice for prolonging its life and keeping drinking
water safe. Yearly water tests will provide the needed information for identifying possible health
concerns related to water quality. Homeowners with private wells are responsible for monitoring the
quality of their drinking water.
6
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
All ground water contains some gases and minerals; accept ability and desirability of these materials is a
matter of personal preference. Be aware that some problems invisible to the naked eye such as
hardness or high bacterial counts, do require treatment while other issues that are more obvious may
not be detrimental to one’s health and do not need to be treated.
There are three main types of wells. Each type has its advantages and disadvantages.
 Drilled wells can reach deeper aquifers and can be drilled through bedrock. These wells are also
less susceptible to contamination. Some deep, drilled wells do have a tendency to produce poor
water quality however, due to salt, sulfur and other minerals.
 Dug or Bored wells are usually shallow, typically in the 20 – 30 foot (6 – 9 meter) range. They
are easy and inexpensive to construct. On the other hand, water shortages are possible with
these shallow wells during dry periods and they are quite vulnerable to contamination from
debris or bacteria found in surface water (as opposed to groundwater) which may infiltrate
these wells. Dug wells often pose a safety hazard and a threat to groundwater quality.
 Sand point wells are generally simple and inexpensive to install but they are limited to
installation in permeable materials like sand, have limited yield, are susceptible to shortages in
dry periods and are quite vulnerable to contamination from surface water and materials.
A well should be properly located in order to minimize the risk of contamination. Wells must also have
watertight casings to a minimum depth. If not, wells must have increased separation distance to
potential sources of contamination. Potential sources of contamination include animal pens and barns,
homes, buildings and downspouts (which can flush large quantities of debris locked up in surface water
into a well which is not properly sealed) and septic fields.
Wells must also be properly maintained. This includes the following actions:
 Regular testing for bacteria and other contaminants
 Inspection for cracks and leaks which admit surface water
 Inspection for staining on the well interior which may indicate that, over time, surface water is
seeping into the well
 Removal of debris which may be floating in the well
 Ensuring ground directly around the well is mounded up to promote drainage away from the
well
 Maintenance of a buffer around the well
7
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
8
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Concerns and Actions for Well Protection
Concern
1. Natural or human-induced pollutants may
have already contaminated the well.
2. A dug or driven well (rather than a drilled well)
or a well more than 20 years old may lack
adequate protective measures to prevent
contamination
3. Improper well casing allows runoff-borne
contaminants into the aquifer.
Action
 Collect a sample from the drinking water tap
and have it analyzed by the county health
department every 1 to 2 years.
 Have a licensed well installer or professional
engineer inspect the well and develop a well
head protection plan.


4. A well downhill from a contaminant source is
vulnerable



5. Improperly abandoned wells create a high risk
for aquifer contamination

Make sure that wells are cased, that the casing
is properly grouted, and that the casing (pipe)
extends a minimum of 12 inches above and 19
feet below the ground surface.
Repair or replace any casing that has cracks or
holes.
Locate new wells uphill from contaminant
sources such as fuel or fertilizer storage areas,
animal pens, or septic systems.
Locate new wells 50 feet or more from a septic
tank or chemical storage sites and 100 feet or
more from a septic leach field
Grade your land to divert flow away from
existing wells in vulnerable sites and to
prevent ponding of runoff around the well.
Have a licensed well installer or professional
engineer inspect the abandoned well and
develop a well decommissioning plan.
Abandoned Wells:
A well is a direct channel from the surface to the aquifer below and can be a safety hazard. Properly
sealing abandoned wells prevents aquifer contamination and life threatening accidents. With an
approved design, the abandoned well can be sealed by the owner, however, for safety, it is strongly
recommended that a licensed well driller perform the work.
Non-point Source (NPS) Pollution:
Contaminants that are delivered to surface waters by way of runoff or leached downward into
groundwater are NPS pollution. It causes streams to be muddy, lakes to be choked with weeds, fewer
fish in your favorite fishing hole, and rivers to flood more frequently. Nutrients contribute to the over
enrichment of streams and lakes with cause an increase in undesirable weed and algae growth. This
excessive plant growth makes it difficult for fish and other aquatic life to live and discourages
recreational use. Some of these nutrients come from city streets, cropland, pastureland, lawns,
gardens, and improperly maintained septic systems. Recognizing potential pollution sources can help
avoid accidental contamination of drinking water.
9
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Non-Point Pollution Sources
 Erosion and runoff from roadsides and construction sites
 Contaminated runoff from both agricultural operations and development.
 Sediment from eroding agricultural and forestry lands.
You can help prevent nonpoint source pollution by using a wide variety of soil and water conservation
practices such as no-till or minimum till farming. Plant trees and shrubs along streams and other water
bodies to control erosion and to filter pollutants. Apply chemicals at the proper rate and not when
rainfall is imminent. Use proper logging and erosion control practices on your forest lands by ensuring
proper construction, maintenance and closure of logging roads. Retain trees and shrubs on the edges of
drainage channels, streams and rivers.
By contrast, Point Source is defined by the EPA as any recognizable transporting agent in which
pollutants are or may be discharged; pipe, ditch, channel, tunnel, conduit, well, etc. (section 502(14) of
the Clean Water Act)
Animal Manure Management (Pets and Livestock):
Man’s best friend may be water quality’s enemy if contaminants from pet feces and urine run off into
water bodies. Overuse of pastures and paddocks may result in erosion and stream-choking sediment
being carried offsite. Livestock manure can be transported by rain, runoff, or floodwaters. Pet runs and
livestock pens should be located as far away from riparian areas, streams, drainages, and wetlands as
possible and downslope from wells; maintain a vegetated buffer between them and the water course or
well. Keep livestock out of streams where their wastes can pollute the water and their movements can
cause erosion. You can do this by designating a special area along the stream as a buffer which will
improve and enhance any grazing system.
Develop a regular routine for collecting feces; store it where runoff won’t carry it away until it can be
disposed of. Recycle livestock manure and bedding for use as fertilizer on gardens or cropland, either
directly or after composting. Locate manure piles away from drainage areas, cover them, and divert
clean water away from them. Maintain vegetation in pasture areas through proper grazing techniques.
An animal feeding operation (AFO) is defined as a facility where livestock (cattle, hogs, sheep, poultry,
and horses) are confined more than 45 days per year in an area without permanent vegetation. Due to
large concentrations of manure and lack of ground vegetation, these operations can cause great harm to
the natural environment because of the risk of pollution during rain events. Implementing vegetation
buffers along with a manure management strategy can help reduce the risk of polluted run-off or
leachates.
Be sure to restrict livestock from riparian areas. This will allow trees and low growing vegetation to
thrive. (For more information on Manure Management/Composting, please read further in this section
Steams, Wetlands and Water Quality Protection.)
Clean Water Act
The federal Clean Water Act makes it unlawful to discharge any pollutant from a point source into
navigable waters without a permit. It also sets water quality standards for all contaminants in surface
water.
10
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Septic Systems
Most rural homeowners are responsible for the treatment of their own wastewater. An individual home
sewage treatment system, also known as a septic system, treats and disposes of household wastewater.
A properly designed, installed, and maintained septic system will provide long-term, effective treatment
of wastewater.
Septic systems are designed to discharge contaminants below ground. A poorly designed system or one
in need of maintenance makes your water supply susceptible to contamination. Locate your septic
system to provide the maximum possible separation between it and surface or ground water sources.
Septic system designs must satisfy county regulations and should be installed by an experienced
contractor.
A septic system has two main pieces, a septic tank and a drain field.
Primary Treatment: Septic Tank
Wastewater enters the septic tank through a pipe from the house. Septic tanks are buried, water-tight
containers where liquids and solids will separate. Three distinct layers separate out within the tank: a
layer of floating scum, a middle liquid zone, and a bottom layer of sludge. Given time, naturally
occurring bacteria will decompose most of the solids in the waste and what doesn’t decompose will
settle to the bottom as sludge or float on the surface as a scum layer. Baffles within the tank are
designed to allow water, but not solids out to the drain field for secondary treatment. Solids in the tank
must be periodically pumped out.
11
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Secondary Treatment: Drain Field
Wastewater that exits the septic tank will enter the drain field through a system of connected
perforated pipes or bottomless chambers. The drain field provides additional bacteria treatment as the
material passes through perforated pipes, into a gravel bed and then into the soil. A thick later of fine
solids, dead bacteria, and soil bacteria called the “biomat” forms where sewage meets the soil. Water is
treated by bacteria and plants as it percolates into the soil. As the water passes through the biomat,
bacteria destroy pathogens and consume nutrients and other wastes. The water then infiltrates into the
soil below.
The size of a drain field depends on the type of soil and number of bedrooms located within the home.
The lower the absorption rate of the soil, the bigger the drain field needs to be. If the drain field is
overloaded with water, the septic tank will fill up and sewage can back up into the house plumbing.
Overuse of the system, even for a short period of time, can cause water to be released into the drain
field without being properly separated into the septic tank. This can contaminate ground water and
damage the system by clogging the pipes.
All household wastewater must go to the septic tank. Wastewater cannot be discharged onto the
ground surface because it can be a source of dangerous water-borne diseases and offensive odors. It is
12
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
also important to limit the amount of solids disposed through this system. Items such as cat litter,
cigarette butts, and coffee grounds may clog your septic system. Other types of waste could kill the
beneficial bacteria in the tank and drain field. Do not dispose of oil based paints, solvents, and toxic
cleaners through the septic system.
Proper maintenance will extend the life of a septic system. It should be inspected every couple of years
by a professional. The sludge that settles out in the tank will need to be pumped out every two to three
years as a general rule. The frequency of pumping will depend on the number of people living in the
house, the quantity of water used, the amount of solids put into the system, and the size of the septic
tank. In some sites, septic drain fields will plug after 20 – 30 years, and become less effective even with
proper maintenance. A new drain field may be needed.
State and local laws set standards for septic systems, including requiring inspection of your system
during home sale or property transfer.
In some areas (such as portions of the Lake Superior Basin), drain fields are not practical, so holding
tanks are authorized under state codes.
Maintaining a Septic System
Importance of Maintenance:
 Cost – Septic systems are expensive to repair or replace, but easy to maintain. Lack of
maintenance is a primary reason for early failure.
 Health and Safety – A failed septic system can release inadequately treated solid waste into
natural water sources (streams, lakes and groundwater) creating a risk to public health.
 Property Value – A failed system can lower property value. In addition, occupational permits
might not be approved because of a failed system.
Tips for maintaining a properly functioning septic system:
Monitoring the functionality of the septic system and conducting maintenance accordingly is your best
bet for maintaining a healthy septic system. Following these rules will help prolong the life of your
septic system.
 Schedule an annual inspection.
 Develop a septic tank pumping schedule for your tank. Your tank must be professionally
pumped periodically to remove solids, sludge, and scum. If this is not done, these materials
overflow into the drain field. Pumping frequency depends on the size of the tank, household
water use and the volume of solids. Most tanks are designed for three- or more-year pumping
cycle.
 Plant only grass over your septic system. Roots from trees or shrubs could clog or damage the
drain field pipes.
 Do not drive or build over the drain field. Compaction of the soil will reduce the effectiveness of
the percolation within the soil.
 Direct rain runoff from roofs and driveways, away from the drain field. Doing so will minimize
the chance of overloading the drain field with water.
 Conserve water to avoid overloading the septic system. Repair leaky faucets and toilets and
install low-flow fixtures. Space out tasks like laundry that use a lot of water. For example, do
laundry throughout the week rather than all on one day.
 Consider alternative options to garbage disposal systems such as composting.
13
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Causing Harm to the System:
Some actions can cause serious damage to the septic system and can reduce the life expectancy of the
system. Properly managing the site of the septic system will also help prolong the system’s life.
Following these simple guidelines will help keep your system safe.
 Flush only easily digested organics and water down the drain. Refrain from flushing items that
could be placed in the trash; napkins, cigarette butts, dental floss, feminine products,
pharmaceuticals or condoms.
 Minimize your use of household soaps and chemicals. They can destroy helpful bacteria that
assist in the breaking down of solid waste in the system. Small amounts of drain cleaner can kill
the needed bacteria and disrupt the system. Consider alternatives such as the use of boiling
water instead.
 Use liquid laundry detergent rather than powder.
 Water softener backwash into your septic tank may harm the system.
 Experts believe that septic tank additives are unnecessary and provide little to no benefit for a
properly managed system.
 Avoid allowing animals to graze on the drain field.
Maintain pumps and filters properly
 All pumps and motors should be routinely checked for proper operation
 Replace weak or faulty pumps and motors
 Install and clean lint filters on laundry equipment
 Clean or replace effluent filters regularly
 Attend to alarms on pumps and filters immediately
Tank Additives
Starters and feeders are either unnecessary or harmful.
The installation of a septic system may require a permit from your city or county. Professional installers
may be found in the phone book or from your local public health unit. If you suspect a problem with
your existing system, contact a local septic system professional or the public health department.
Additional Resources:
National Environmental Service Center: Septic Systems
EPA: Septic Systems
14
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Concerns and Actions for Preventing Septic System Problems
Concern
1. System location creates potential to
contaminate adjacent water sources.
2. Failure due to overload from excessive water
use.
3. Poor quality effluent due to inadequate
microbial treatment.
4. Failure due to accumulation of solids in the
septic tank.
5. Failure of the soil absorption field (leach field).
Actions
Locate system properly:
 50 feet from septic tank to well.
 100 feet between leach field or lagoon and
well.
 100 feet away from a surface water body
 Avoid areas with shallow (<10 feet)
groundwater tables.
 Practice water conservation to lessen the work
the septic system must perform.
 Dispose of hazardous household chemicals at
an approved hazardous waste collection
center.
 Use bleach, disinfectants, drain and toilet bowl
cleaners, and other “poisons” sparingly and in
accordance with product labels.
 DON’T use commercial septic tank additives –
these products rarely help, and some may
even hurt your system.
 DON’T use your toilet as a trash can by
dumping non-degradable items down your
toilet or drains. Keep grease, diapers, plastics,
etc., out of your septic system.
 Have your tank pumped out and your system
inspected every 3 – 5 years (1 – 2 years if a
garbage disposal is used) and keep records.
 Construct two fields so one may rest while the
other is in use. Alternate use every year.
 Divert surface water from gutters, driveways
and hillsides away from the septic system.
 DO NOT drive or park over any part of the
system. The area over the drain field should
be left undisturbed with only a mowed grass
cover.
 Don’t plant trees or wood shrubs near the
system; roots may clog and damage drain
lines.
Solid Waste Disposal & Recycling Options
Rural residents should consider their impact on natural resources surrounding their private property.
Proper disposal of solid waste, hazardous materials, and recyclables will help maintain the quality of
surface and groundwater, including lakes, streams, rivers, and aquifers.
15
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Reduce and Reuse
Source reduction prevents waste from being created. It reduces the amount of toxicity, of waste at the
source. Because source reduction actually prevents the generation of waste in the first place, it is the
most preferable method of waste management. Source reduction includes purchasing durable, longlasting goods and making them last longer by repairing them when necessary, reusing products and
packaging, and reducing the amount of packaging that is discarded. It is also seeking products and
packaging that are as free of toxics as possible.
Reusing items by repairing them, donating them to charity and community groups or selling them also
reduces waste. Reusing when possible is preferable to recycling because the item does not need to be
reprocessed before it can be used again.
Solid Waste
Rural areas may not have a commercial solid waste service. You are responsible for properly disposing
of solid waste. In some cases, your only option may be to haul trash to the landfill yourself. Check with
your county office to see what options are available to you.
Recycling
Items such as corrugated cardboard, newspapers, magazines, aluminum cans, used motor oil and steel
cans can be recycled. Many landfills will compost lawn clippings and other organic material. Recycling
reduces consumption of natural resources and extends the lifespan of landfill sites. However, buying
products that are recyclable and actually recycling them is only part of the recycling process. Consider
also buying products made from recycled materials.
Recycling may be more difficult for rural homeowners. Pick-up of recycled materials may not be
available and few rural areas have recycling centers. Check with your county to see what services are
available.
Hazardous Materials and Contaminants
Household hazardous waste includes items labeled danger, toxic, poisonous, corrosive, or flammable.
Chemicals used in and around our homes can be a risk to water quality when used or disposed of
improperly. If spilled or disposed of on the ground, it can wash into streams or leach through soils into
wells. If your driveway or sidewalk de-icers are necessary, use organic-based products that pose
minimal risk if washed into an adjacent creek or wetland. Minimize fertilizers and pesticides, don’t
exceed the recommended application rates or frequency on the product label, and leave an untreated
area as a buffer between the treated areas and riparian zones. Store trash in areas where wind or
floods can’t carry it away and recycle or dispose of chemical containers in accordance with the
manufacturer’s recommendations and applicable laws and regulations.
Examples of hazardous materials/contaminants include:
 Pesticide containers
 Paints
 Thinners
 Stains
 Varnishes
 Drain and oven cleaners
 Poisons
16
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org



Automotive fluids
Weed and insect killers
Fluorescent light bulbs and ballasts
Household hazardous waste needs to be properly reused, recycled, or disposed of. Once a year your
community may have a hazardous waste collection week. If you want to drop off your waste, contact
hazardous waste sites.
Backyard Burning
Backyard burning of garbage is unnecessary, dangerous and often illegal in many places. Even rural
households have alternatives to burning trash. In addition, burning garbage may be a liability since open
burning can start fires (for example, 36% of Wisconsin wildfires are from careless debris burning).
Backyard burning is also a source of toxic chemicals because trash burning creates toxic pollution. Trash
burned in a burn barrel creates two thousand times more dioxin (a highly toxic known carcinogen) than
if that same trash was burned at a modern municipal incinerator. For some people, pollutants created
by garbage burning can cause respiratory and other health problems and it’s an un-neighborly practice
since the unpleasant odor wafts into other properties.
Manure Management /Composting
Manure contains both valuable nutrients and potential pollutants, and if not properly managed, can
leach into ground and surface water causing pollution. Animals produce a lot of manure and without
regular management it can become overwhelming quickly. Ideally manure should be collected every
one to three days to reduce polluted run-off, fly breeding sites, and muddy areas. Using certain types of
footing material can make cleaning sacrifice areas easier with minimal material loss. Manure should be
kept away from streams and ditches, regardless of the type of livestock.
An “all-weather paddock” is a key part of most well-managed horse properties and is useful for other
livestock. You keep your horses here to allow pasture grass to re-grow, protect saturated ground, and
manage the amount of grass they are eating. Think of it as the horse’s “living room,” with the pasture as
the “dining room.”
To reduce mud and dust, use wood chips, sand or some other surface to provide adequate drainage.
Regularly clean the paddock. Horses shouldn’t stand in their own waste! A well-managed paddock will
have little or no contaminated runoff or nutrient leaching to shallow groundwater, ditches, or canals.
Direct runoff to a vegetative buffer or filter strip. Divert rainwater and snowmelt around the paddock
with gutters and downspouts on the buildings.
17
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Animal
Dairy Cow
Heifer
Beef Cow
Horse
Ewe w/Lamb
Goats
Llama
Manure
Lbs per Day
120-150
50
75
50-55
12
10
12-20
Composting is the process of turning plant remains and other once-living material into fertilizer and
organic matter that is ideal as a natural soil amendment. There are multiple containers and methods for
composting, all of which share primarily the same process. The main difference is in the amount of time
it takes for the material to fully compost. Composting helps reduce household trash production while
providing a valuable resource that can help increase crop yields. If you want to start composting at
home, there is no better time to start. There are many online and local resources available to
landowners.
Composting Facilities utilize animal manure or other waste products (not including animal carcasses) in a
sanitary method that results in a product that can be used on farms to improve soil organic matter. A
well-managed compost pile will cause naturally occurring chemical compounds in the manure to
stabilize and reduce the potential for adverse environmental impact. Additionally, besides turning
livestock waste into garden gold, the volume of the material will be reduced to about one-third of its
original mass.
There are some things to take into consideration when choosing a composting site, including distance
from a water body, property lines, residence, wells, or other environmentally sensitive areas. A good
location is very helpful for a successful compost pile. Sun is important to help heat, yet it can also cause
excessive drying out. Additional requirements include: good availability of water to keep the pile moist,
protection from winds which can dry and cool the pile, and good drainage so standing water doesn’t
impeded the decomposition process. Compost piles should be situated away from buildings, wood, or
trees which can be affected by the decomposition process.
Heating of the pile is a vital part of the composting process. The right amount will kill pathogens and
weed seeds, too much will kill off the microbes.
The temperature is expected to increase in a compost pile due to the breakdown of organic material by
microorganisms. The pile will start out at the outside temperature when it is first mixed and can reach
150 degrees in less than 2 days. The maximum composting rate occurs when the temperature is
between 110 and 150 degrees F. It has been shown that a temperature of 131 degrees for 3 days will
kill all parasites, weed seeds, and disease-causing organisms. It is important to turn the piles frequently
to ensure that all parts of the pile are exposed to these temperatures.
Water Quality Benefits
Composting provides a soil amendment that:
 Physically protects soil from rain and wind and reduces sediment transport in runoff
 Increases plant growth and soil cover
18
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org


Improves soil structure, organic content, water infiltration and water holding capacity
Provides an alternative use for poultry litter and other animal by-products as part of a nutrient
management plan.
When to Use
Composting facilities provide an alternative use for manure and other waste products from agricultural
operations and can improve air quality and odors.
In order to maintain water quality benefits, composting facilities should not be located within 25 feet of
an intermittent or perennial stream, unless there are no other feasible locations.
These facilities can be designed to handle animal mortality.
How to Establish
Whatever method of manure storage being used, the pile should be covered during wet periods and set
on an impervious surface to limit leaching and runoff. If you plan on using a front loader to turn or
move the pile make sure the roof of the structure is tall enough.
When possible, composting facilities should be located outside of floodplains and above seasonal high
water tables. Permeable soil is ideal to reduce surface water contamination. Be sure to divert runoff
away from composting facilities.
Facilities need to be large enough to handle the type and amount of composting materials being used.
pH levels should be neutral or slightly lower to reduce nitrogen losses. Once established, moisture
content should remain between 40-60%. The minimum composting period for stability is 21-28 days; for
higher quality compost, piles may need up to 60 days.
Considerations and costs
Inspect composting facilities frequently to ensure proper function. This includes temperature, odor,
moisture and oxygen.
Initially, use a composting mix of 30:1 to reduce odors. Chemical agents and carbonaceous materials
may be needed to maintain proper function.
To obtain maximum solar warming, piles should be aligned north to south with moderate side slopes.
Composting facilities can be high in cost depending on materials, size and construction.
19
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Effectiveness
Composting by-products reduced erosion by 86% in studies. On slopes up to 15%, composted materials
reduced runoff by 70% in studies.
By using composting by-products sediment transport was reduced up to 99% compared to silt fences
and 38% compared to hydroseeding in studies.
Crop Nutrient or Animal Waste Management Problems
You must prevent your valuable manure or fertilizers from leaving your property. Small acreage
landowners are especially vulnerable to this rule. Stored waste from barn cleanings or feedings areas
can leave the property if water runs through it, either from rain or runoff or if stored in a flood plain.
Paying attention to where you site your manure pile, covering it, and diverting clean water away from it
are all easy ways to stay in compliance with this rule. The best way however is to use it right on your
property or share some with your neighbor. Just don’t send it to him by way of your stream!
Wetlands
A wetland is an area with saturated soils that will host water-loving vegetation. Because wetlands store
floodwater, trap nutrients and sediment, help recharge ground water, and provide habitat for wildlife,
they are vital to a healthy environment.
Wetlands and their adjacent ecological transition zones are important features of a watershed. The flow
of water, the cycling of nutrients and the energy of the sun meet to produce a unique ecosystem
characterized by its hydrology, soils, and vegetation. Wetlands can be classified into four general
categories: marshes, swamps, bogs and fens.
Wetlands have two primary characteristics: (1) hydric (water logged) soils and (2) water-tolerant plants.
Even when water isn’t visible these indicators will still be present.
Wetlands are home to thousands of species and provide important breeding areas. Wetlands’ natural
systems are critical to maintaining the ecological balance of a region. They help reduce flooding by
storing water, and help reduce water pollution through their filtering and cleansing abilities.
Wetlands aren’t always wet. In fact, depressions that are only wet for a little while each year are an
especially valuable type of wetland for many kinds of wildlife, such as frogs and salamanders. In short,
just because it’s dry doesn’t mean it’s not an important wetland.
The areas around wetlands are important too. Ducks, for example must have dry natural areas around a
wetland for nesting. Frogs lay eggs in the water but spend much of the year foraging in woods and
grasslands around their wetland.
Whether an area is a wetland or not is determined by specific soil, vegetation and hydrologic conditions.
Wetlands are protected under federal law from land management activities that would destroy them or
20
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
change their function. Become familiar with regulations before you consider draining, filling or
otherwise altering a wetland. In some cases, a drainage permit may also be required by the county.
Voluntary programs are available to help landowners protect, restore, and preserve wetlands by
providing financial incentives. A good first step is to contact your local NRCS or conservation district
office for assistance. Other State, Federal and local agencies can also provide information regarding
these programs and the regulations that help preserve these valuable resources.
Contact the Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) to determine whether your area is a
wetland.
Wetland Creation, Enhancement and Restoration
Water Quality Benefits:
 Reduces nutrient loadings
 Provides and protects native species habitats
 Can improve water quality associated with degraded wetlands
 Can reduce chemical contaminants
When to Use:
Creating a wetland is ideal in areas where wetland conditions can be established and maintained by
modifying drainage.
Enhancing existing wetlands can improve overall habitat and water quality, and may improve the many
functions of a wetland. Restoring a wetland can provide habitats for wildlife.
Large wetland restoration projects can generate income when used to mitigate wetland losses
elsewhere.
Prior to any wetlands project, contact the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers for additional requirements.
How to Establish:
All federal, state and local regulations should be followed. Landowners must obtain all required permits
before beginning a restorative process.
Except where seasonal, wetlands require a permanent water source. Examine natural wetlands in the
area as a guide for restoring a wetland. Vegetation established in wetlands should be adapted to the
area as well as to wet conditions.
Permits are the responsibility of the owner to obtain.
Considerations and Costs:
Consider any impacts of changes in the volume and rate of runoff, infiltration, evaporation, and
transpiration on the water budget that may result from these practices. Producers should also consider
any impacts on downstream flows and wildlife habitats prior to creating or modifying a wetland.
21
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Costs associated with wetland creation include planning and design, site preparation, seed/plant
materials, and other costs that result from altering water flows and establishing vegetative buffers.
Costs associated with enhancing and restoring wetlands may include drainage modification, additional
plant materials, soil improvement costs, expansion costs, etc.
Contact your local conservation agent prior to beginning a wetlands project in order to fully understand
maintenance requirements.
Wetland creation is moderately high to high in cost. Wetland enhancement is low in cost. Wetland
restoration is moderate in cost.
Effectiveness:
Restored wetland buffers with an up slope grass strip and down slope planted pines and hardwoods
retained or removed 59% of nitrogen and 66% of phosphorus entering from adjacent manure
application sites in studies.
Wetland Invasive Plants
Invasive plants can be a problem in wetlands, and managing them requires special techniques. Methods
like mowing or burning are difficult in wet areas. The herbicides we rely upon in forests and grasslands
are toxic to fish and other aquatic life in even tiny amounts, so special aquatic formulations must be
used. For example, glyphosate herbicides should not be used around water. Instead look for aquatic
formulations.
Wetlands and Surface Pollutants
Wetlands often have very close connections with the groundwater system. Some wetlands, in higher
ground, may serve as important groundwater recharge areas. Others, especially those in low-lying
areas, may be the receptors for significant amounts of groundwater discharge. Therefore, if the
underlying groundwater is contaminated, detrimental consequences will be felt by the wildlife and all
other resources users dependent on that wetland.
Regulations and Working in Waters and Wetlands
The Food Security Act of 1985 protects all wetlands from being harmed or removed without a permit,
and Section 404 of the Federal Clean Water Act regulates filling, draining and excavations in wetlands,
and is administered by the U.S. Army Corp of Engineers. When working in or adjacent to a stream or
wetland, there is a good chance that you may first need to acquire a permit. Placement of fill,
excavation, alteration of stream banks or stream course, ditching, stump removal, and plowing or
discing wetlands not previously farmed, are all activities that require a permit and are regulated by the
Department of State Lands and Army Corps of Engineers. All work done at or below the high water mark
is subject to these regulations. A rule of thumb for identifying a high water mark is by a change in the
type of vegetation present on the bank. You should always contact your local authorities before doing
work in or near a waterway.
22
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
If you are considering a project that might impact a wetland, contact your local conservation district. Do
not ignore the laws – penalties often include restoring the wetland to its original condition, which can be
very expensive.
Riparian Areas
Riparian areas are defined by the Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) as ecosystems that
occur along waterways and water bodies such as streams, lakes and wetlands. Riparian areas act as the
transition between the wet (aquatic) lands and the dry (terrestrial) land. A healthy riparian area will be
highly vegetated with ideal riparian vegetation, good shade, and an abundance of woody and organic
debris. Plant roots provide the bank with increased stability while minimizing sediment runoff. Riparian
buffers should be between 25 – 100 feet wide depending on surrounding land uses. They are comprised
of water-loving plants such as alder, willow, cottonwood, and sedges.
These areas make up less than 5 percent of the landscape, they represent critical habitat for a diverse
range of living creatures, containing 75 percent of our plant and animal diversity: turtles, beaver,
muskrat, wood duck, songbirds, frogs, insects, aquatic organisms, orchids, lilies, and more. Just about
everything you like about these areas depends on leaving them in their natural state.
Properly managed riparian areas provide property owners and the environment with numerous
benefits. Riparian areas are vital to the natural ecosystem, thus property owners are highly discouraged
from altering or removing riparian vegetation.
Ecological Benefits:
 Reduces water pollution
 Reduces flooding
 Reduces erosion
 Protects fish habitat
 Provides nutrients
 Provides wildlife habitat
Many riparian areas have lost their natural diverse vegetation, allowing invasive plants or other weeds
to take over the area. Without proper management, invasive plants can totally overtake otherwise
healthy riparian areas.
Continuous season-long grazing often removes important riparian vegetation and may cause
streambank erosion and water quality degradation.
A Healthy Riparian Area
A Healthy Riparian Area is the key to a healthy stream system through its lush and diverse vegetation
along the water’s edge. Vegetation reduces water pollution by filtering out sediments, chemicals and
extra nutrients from runoff. Water is retained in the soil for longer periods of time and is slowly
released. This process enhances longer stream flows and groundwater recharge. Water running
through the area is slow in order to reduce erosion and property loss. Although these areas may
23
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
comprise only a small portion of the landscape, they will provide food and cover for a diverse range of
living creatures, including deer, beaver, muskrat, wood ducks, songbirds, frogs, insects, and a variety of
aquatic organisms. Lush riparian and wetland vegetation along the water’s edge will:
Slow flood flows and reduce erosion and property loss
Secure food and cover for fish, birds and other wildlife
Keep water cooler in the summer and prevent ice damage in winter
Reduce water pollution by filtering out sediment, chemicals, and nutrient runoff
Provide important breeding habitat for birds
Shelter animals during calving, lambing, or fawning
Hold more water in the soil, slowly releasing it for longer season stream flows and groundwater
recharge
Stabilize the riverbank with riparian vegetation such as trees and deep-rooted sedges.
Provide excellent area for recreation and education activities.
Practices to Enhance Riparian Areas and Preserve Good Water Quality
 Increase buffer (vegetation) width around open water. Studies show that widths of 50 feet trap
sediment, 100 feet filter pollutants, and 200 – 300 feet provide wildlife corridors.
 Fence livestock away from riparian areas or develop riparian pastures that exclude livestock
from entering wetlands and streams, providing watering sites away from the wetlands. Animals
break down stream banks causing erosion and stream widening as well as adding pollutants to
the waterway.
 Remove noxious weeds with mechanical means rather than chemical means. Replace them with
native plants.
24
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org








Avoid mowing except as needed to maintain a healthy vegetated area.
Delay mowing riparian areas until late July after birds are done nesting.
Keep new buildings as far away from creeks as possible. This will help reduce erosion and
flooding problems.
Do not install rock, rip-rap, or gabions along your stream bank. While these features may give
your streamside a more landscaped appearance, these features can reduce the water quality in
your stream and damage your downstream neighbor’s property. If you have erosion issues, try
planting native riparian plants. Their roots will hold the soil in place much better than any rock
structure.
Preserve the natural features of the creek. Fallen logs and meanders in the stream are essential
physical structures that maintain food and habitat for fish and wildlife. There is no need to
clean up this natural debris unless it is threatening you or your property. If so, be sure to
consult the county before going to work.
Do not divert a spring or creek to build a pond (even for irrigation use) without a permit. Ponds
raise water temperatures and promote algal growth. Impounding water without a permit is
illegal.
Avoid filling ravines or slopes above creeks with dirt, grass clippings or other debris. Storms will
carry this debris down slopes and into the waterways.
Remember, water flows downstream. How you treat the section of stream on your property
affects water quality on your neighbor’s property downstream, just as the actions of your
neighbors upstream affect you and your property.
Riparian Forest Buffers
Use trees or shrubs to reduce sediment, organic matter, nutrients and pesticides in surface runoff
alongside watercourses.
Water Quality Benefits:
 Reduces soil erosion
 Reduces sediment transport into water sources
 Reduces nutrient loadings in water sources
 Provides shade and lowers aquatic temperature
When to Use:
Use forest buffers on areas adjacent to permanent or intermittent streams, lakes, ponds, wetlands and
in areas with groundwater recharge capable of supporting woody vegetation.
These areas can be used for very limited livestock grazing and hay harvesting.
How to Establish:
Prepare site to support the type of forest buffer zone that will be established. Use native trees and
shrubs that are non-invasive. Plants and trees need time to establish and should be planted when
growth will be promoted. Fertilizer may be needed. In addition, livestock and equipment should be
kept out of forest buffers until plants and trees are established.
25
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Considerations and Costs:
(See the following Illustration for location of Zones)
Use Zone 2 buffers on sites that receive nutrient, sediment and animal waste applications where
additional protection is needed to reduce soil erosion and water contamination.
Use Zone 3 buffers on sites adjacent to cropland and highly erodible areas to filter sediment, address
concentrated flow erosion, and maintain sheet flow. For Zone 3 buffers, follow standards and
specifications for filter strips.
Maintenance and labor costs may include sediment build-up removal and periodic inspections to ensure
proper function.
Forest buffers are moderate in cost depending on the type of vegetation established.
Effectiveness:
Riparian forest buffers removed 25 – 85% of nitrogen, 50 – 75% of phosphorus and 50 – 75% of
sediment in runoff in addition to the acreage converted to forests in studies.
Restored Zone 3 buffers removed 60% of nitrogen and 65% of phosphorus entering from manure
application sites to an adjacent water source in one Georgia research study. Grass buffers alone
removed 45% of the nitrogen and 20% of the phosphorus from the same sites.
Zone 1 is the area closest to the water body course. Zone 2 is adjacent to and up-gradient from Zone 1
(a minimum of 15 feet). Zone 2 plantings intercept sediment, nutrients, pesticides, and other
pollutants in surface and subsurface water flows (a minimum of 20 feet). Zone 3 is established if
periodic and excessive water flows, erosion, and sediment from upslope fields or tracts are
anticipated. Zone 3 is generally of herbaceous plants or grass and a diversion or terrace if needed.
Source: NRCS Conservation Practice Job Sheet 391
26
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Riparian Herbaceous Cover
Uses grasses, grass-like plants and forbs to protect water quality, provide wildlife habitats and to
stabilize streambanks and channels.
Water Quality Benefits:
 Reduces soil erosion
 Reduces sediment transport into water sources
 Reduces nutrient loadings in water sources
When to Use:
Riparian herbaceous cover is ideal where runoff can be a problem from pastures and cropland. Riparian
cover is used between areas of agricultural land and water bodies.
Riparian Herbaceous Cover areas are not filter strips.
How to Establish:
The size of riparian areas varies according to use. Use native plant species whenever possible. Avoid
harvesting or grazing these areas until plants are established. Then harvest or graze on a carefully
monitored rotational schedule. Normal maintenance is required to ensure the function of the riparian
herbaceous cover area. Herbaceous cover works best to provide soil stability when used in conjunction
with planting shrubs and trees.
Considerations and Costs:
Costs associated with riparian herbaceous cover areas include site preparation, seed and plant materials
and maintenance.
Herbaceous cover is low to moderate in cost depending on the type of vegetation established.
Effectiveness:
Riparian Herbaceous cover can potentially reduce nitrogen by 17 – 58%, phosphorus by 50 – 75%, and
sediment by 50 – 75%. Riparian herbaceous cover effectiveness depends on maintaining sheet flow
across the buffer and increasing infiltration and subsurface flow.
Riparian Enhancement Programs
Check with local agencies for local, state, and federal riparian enhancement programs that may help you
with your particular project.
Streambank and Shoreline Protection
In order to reduce erosion and water quality degradation, streams are stabilized and protected by
constructed channels and shorelines.
27
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Water Quality Benefits:
 Reduces erosion and loss of land
 Protects and maintains water flow and storage capacity
 Can be used to protect and improve stream corridors for wildlife and aquatic species
 Lowers total sediment and nutrient loads entering water bodies
 Provides shade and lowers aquatic temperature
When to Use:
This practice can be applied to the streambanks of natural or constructed channels or shorelines that are
susceptible to erosion. This type of practice is NOT applicable to ocean fronts or associated areas.
Prior to initiating work in any waterbody, including wetlands, contact the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers
for additional requirements.
How to Establish:
All federal, state and local regulations should be followed in the installation process.
Permits are the responsibility of the owner to obtain.
Prior to installation, an assessment of the project area should be performed to identify unstable and
erosive areas.
Install protective measures to protect streams from up-gradient runoff. The channel grade should be
stable and based on prior field assessment when permanent measures are installed.
Limit the removal of obstructions whenever possible as they provide ideal aquatic habitats. It may be
necessary to clear channels when obstructions and/or debris (stumps, fallen trees, etc.) cause erosion or
interrupt channel flow and function.
Use materials that cause minimal visual impacts, and maintain or complement the existing landscape.
Protective measures should have a minimal impact on the existing wildlife and habitat.
Disturbed areas should be re-vegetated as soon as possible with plant species that are native or adapted
to the local ecosystem. Livestock should be excluded until plants are established and then use
appropriate grazing practices.
Considerations and Costs:
Additional protection may be necessary to protect surrounding habitats. Consider implementing other
conservation practices to further protect water quality and reduce erosion.
Costs associated with this practice may include site preparation, materials, installation, maintenance,
and the re-vegetation of surrounding areas.
Contact your local conservation district prior to beginning a streambank or shoreline protection project
in order to fully understand maintenance requirements.
28
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Streambank and shoreline protection is moderate to high in cost depending on the size and length of
the protection area.
Effectiveness:
Streambank and shoreline protection can significantly reduce erosion and sediment entering water.
Floodplains
Flooding is a natural stream process. A floodplain is the land that is inundated with water during floods.
Healthy floodplains reduce downstream flood impacts by spreading out and slowing flood waters. The
process encourages aquifer recharge as water seeps into the soil. A flood plain is defined as that area
which has a one-percent chance of flooding in any particular year (100-year flood plain). These areas
are nutrient rich from accumulated sediment deposits.
Restrictions limit construction and activities within a floodplain to reduce potential damage during flood
events. There may be restrictions in flood-prone areas regarding the type or amount of fill material (so
floodwaters are not directed onto other property) or on the types of septic systems (to prevent
potential water contamination). Your lending institution or insurance company may also require that
you purchase Federal flood insurance if you live in a floodplain.
Ponds
Ponds come in many sizes and types – from the vernal pool that dries up in the summer to the beaver
pond that backs up a stream to that “golden pond” of our memories. Ponds provide critical habitat for
numerous species of plants and animals, as well as recreational, agricultural and aesthetic benefits to
landowners.
But what a beaver builds instinctively is not so easy to replicate by man.
For starters, you must have a permit to construct a reservoir or pond of any size to store water. This can
include a Water Rights permit among others.
Wild ponds provide important habitat for turtles, frogs and other animals, they can impair water quality
and aquatic life downstream. Unless the pond is disconnected from a waterway (and few are in nature),
the water in the pond will warm and grow algae before flowing downstream.
A poorly-designed or constructed pond can be breached during a storm event. Ponds can also be
attractive nuisances to children, pets and other animals. As such, ponds are a liability to the landowner.
Check your insurance coverage to assess if the benefits outweigh the risks.
If you want to enjoy the aesthetics of a pond without the hassles of permits and liability, you might want
to build a water feature. A water feature differs from a pond in size and source of water. It might be a
fountain, a man-made babbling brook or a birdbath, but a water feature would be filled with domestic
water, not irrigation water or water from a stream.
29
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
References and Further Resources
All material in this guide is a compilation of and originated from the following publications.
Project Manager, Beth Mason, National Association of Conservation Districts
Small Pasture Management Guide (AG 508), Utah State University Cooperative Extension (2008), Utah
Hood River County Rural Living Handbook, Hood River Soil and Water Conservation District (2/2008),
Oregon
Wasco County Rural Living Handbook, Wasco County Soil and Water Conservation District (9/2009),
Oregon
Deschutes County Rural Living Handbook, Deschutes Soil and Water Conservation District, Oregon
Jefferson County Rural Living Handbook, Jefferson County Soil and Water Conservation District
(1/2009), Oregon
Managing Grazing for Sustainable Pastures, USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service and
Colorado State University Extension, Colorado
Planning for a Sustainable Homestead, USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service and Colorado
State University Extension, Colorado
Living on a Few Acres in Wyoming (MP-86), University of Wyoming Cooperative Extension Service,
Wyoming
Landowning Colorado Style, USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service, Colorado
Lake Superior Watershed Rural Property Guide, Superior Watershed Partnership and the University of
Wisconsin Extension (2008), Wisconsin
Tips on Land and Water Management for Small Farms and Ranches in Montana, Montana Department
of Natural Resources and Conservation (1997), Montana
Outdoors in Anoka County, Anoka Conservation District and the University of Minnesota Extension
Service, Minnesota
Rural Lifestyles, Clackamas County Soil and Water Conservation District (11/2009), Oregon
Pocket Guide, Clackamas County Soil and Water Conservation District (11/2009), Oregon
Jackson County Rural Living Handbook, Jackson Soil and Water Conservation District (10/2006), Oregon
Marion County Rural Living Handbook, Marion Soil and Water Conservation District (4/2011), Oregon
Best Management Practices for Georgia Agriculture, the Georgia Soil and Water Conservation
Commission (3/2007), Georgia
30
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org
Land and Water Management Guide for Non-Urban Areas in Mississippi, Mississippi Soil and Water
Conservation Commission, Mississippi
Rural Living, South Dakota Association of Conservation Districts, South Dakota Association of RC&D
Councils, South Dakota University/Cooperative Extension Service, and USDA Natural Resources
Conservation Service (11/15/2004), South Dakota
North Dakota Rural Living Handbook, Grand Forks and Cass County Soil and Water Conservation
Districts (2009), North Dakota
31
National Association of Conservation Districts 4.2014 – www.nacdnet.org