July 12, 1804
William Clark
The Commanding officers, Capts. M. Lewis & W. Clark constituted themselves a Court Martial for the trial
of such persons as are Guilty of Capital Crimes, and under the rules and articles of War punishable by
DEATH. Alexander Willard was brought forward Charged with "Lying down and Sleeping on his post" even
as a guard...To this Charge the prisoner pleads Guilty of Lying Down, and Not Guilty, of Going to Sleep
The court after Duly Considering the evidence adduced, are of opinion that the Prisoner Alexdr. Willard is
guilty of every part of the Charge exhibited against him. it being a breach of the rules and articles of War
do Sentence him to receive One hundred lashes, on his bear back, at four different times in equal
proportion. and Order that the punishment Commence this evening at Sunset, and Continue to be inflicted
every evening until Completed.
Wm Clark
M. Lewis
July 20, 1804
For a month past the party have been troubled with boils, and occasionally with the dysentery. These boils
were large tumors which broke out under the arms, on the legs, and, generally, in the parts most exposed
to action, which sometimes became too painful to permit the men to work.
This disorder....has not affected the general health of the party, which is quite as good, if not better, than
that of the same number of men in any other situation.
August 20, 1804
...we had the misfortune to lose one of our sergeants, Charles Floyd. He was yesterday seized with a
bilious colic, and all our care and attention were ineffectual to relieve him: a little before his death, he said
to Captain Clark, " I am going to leave you" his strength failed him as he added, "I want you to write me a
letter;" but he died with a composure which justified the high opinion had formed of his firmness and good
conduct. He was buried on the top of the bluff with the honors due to a brave soldier
August 22, 1804
In order to supply the place of sergeant Floyd, we permitted the men to name three persons, and Patrick
Gass having the greatest number of votes was made sergeant.
August 25, 1804
William Clark
Capt. Lewis & Myself concluded to go and See the Mound which was Viewed with Such terror by all the
different Nations in this quarter, ... our Dog was so Heated and fatigued we was obliged [to] Send him
back to the Creek, ... Capt. Lewis much fatigued...
One evidence which the natives give for believing this place to be the residence of some unusual Spirits is
that they frequently discover a large assemblage of Birds about this Mound [this] is in my opinion a
Sufficient proof to produce in the Savage Mind a Confident belief of all the properties which they ascribe
[to] it.
Numerous herds of buffalo...
August 30, 1804
William Clark
... a Council under an Oak Tree near where we had a flag flying on a high flagstaff ... The Sioux is a Stout
bold looking people, & well made, the greater part of make use of Bows & arrows, Some flew fusses I
observe among them, not withstanding they live by the Bow and arrow, they do not Shoot So Well as the
Northern Indians the Warriors are Very much decorated with Paint Porcupine quills & feathers, large
lagans and moccasins, all with buffalo robs of Different Colors. The Squalls wore Petticoats & a White
Buffalo robe with the black hair turned back over their necks and Shoulders.
This Nation is Divided into 20 Tribes, ...
September 7, 1804
As we descended from this dome, we arrived at a spot, on the gradual descent of the hill, nearly four acres
in extent, and covered with small holes: these are the residence of a little animal [prairie dog], called by
the French petit chien (little dog), who sit erect near the mouth, and make a whistling noise, but when
alarmed take refuge in their holes. In order to bring them out, we poured into one of the holes five barrels
of water without filling it, but we dislodged and caught the owner. After digging down another of the holes
for six feet, we found, on running a pole into it, that we
had not yet dug half way to the bottom: we discovered, however, two frogs
in the hole, and near it we killed a dark rattlesnake, which had swallowed a small prairie dog: we were also
informed, though we never witnessed the fact, that a sort of lizard, and a snake, live habitually with these
animals. The petit chien are justly named, as they resemble a small dog in some particulars, though they
have also some points of similarity to the squirrel. The head resembles the squirrel in every respect, except
that the ear is shorter, the tail like that of the ground-squirrel, the toe-nails are long, the fur is fine, and
the long hair is gray.
September 17, 1804
William Clark
Colter Killed a Goat like the one I killed and a curious kind of Deer (Mule Deer) of a Dark gray color more
so than common, ... this Species of Deer jumps like a goat or Sheep
September 17, 1804
Meriwether Lewis
Having for many days past confined myself to the boat, I determined to devote this day to amuse myself
on shore with my gun and view the interior of the country lying between the river and the Corvus Creek.
... The shortness and abundance of grass gave the plain the appearance throughout its whole extent of
beautiful bowling-green in fine order. ... this scenery already rich pleasing and beautiful was still farther
heightened by immense herds of Buffalo, deer Elk and Antelopes which we saw in every direction feeding
on the hills and plains. I do not think I exaggerate when I estimate the number of Buffalo which could be
comprehended at one view to amount to 3000. My object was if possible to kill a female Antelope ... it
appeared rather the rapid flight of birds than the motion of quadrupeds. I think I can safely venture the
assertion that the speed of this animal is equal if not superior to that of the finest blooded courser.
September 28, 1804
William Clark
... the Soldiers took possession of the Cable ... after much Difficulty -- which had nearly reduced us to
necessity to hostilities I threw a Carrot of Tobacco to the 1st Chief ... Spoke so as to touch his pride ... I
am very unwell for want of Sleep Determined to Sleep tonight if possible, the Men Cooked & we rested
well.
October 9, 1804
William Clark
... much astonished at my black Servant, who did not lose the opportunity of [displaying -- Ed.] his powers
Strength &c. &c. this nation never Saw a black man before.
October 10, 1804
William Clark
... after the Council was over we Shot the air guns which astonished them much, the[y] then Departed and
we rested Secure all night, Those Indians were much astonished at my Servant, they never Saw a black
man before, all flocked around him & examined him from top to toe, he Carried on the joke and made
himself more terrible than we wished him to do. Those Indians are not fond of Liquor of any kind.
October 10, 1804
Wednesday. The weather was this day fine, and as we were desirous of assembling the whole nation at
once, we dispatched Mr. Gravelines, who with Mr. Tabeau another French trader had breakfasted with us,
to invite the chiefs of the two upper villages to a conference. They all assembled at one o'clock, and after
the usual ceremonies we addressed them in the same way in which we had already spoken to the Ottoes
and Sioux: we then made or acknowledged three chiefs, one for each of the three villages; giving to each
a flag, a medal, a red coat, a cocked hat and feather, also some goods, paint and tobacco, which they
divided among themselves: after this the air gun was exhibited, very much to their astonishment, nor were
they less surprised at the color and manner of York. On our side we were equally gratified at discovering
that these Ricaras made use of no spirituous liquors of any kind, the example of the traders who bring it to
them so far from tempting having in fact disgusted them. Supposing that it was as agreeable to them as to
the other Indians, we had at first offered them whiskey; but they refused it with this sensible remark, that
they were surprised that their father should present to them a liquor which would make them fools. On
another occasion they observed to Mr. Tabeau, that no man could be their friend who tried to lead them
into such follies.
November 20, 1804
We this day moved into our huts which are now completed. This place which we call Fort Mandan, is
situated in a point of low ground, on the north side of the Missouri, covered with tall and heavy cotton
wood. The works consist of two rows of huts or sheds, forming an angle where they joined each other;
each row containing four rooms, of fourteen feet square and seven feet high, with plank ceiling, and the
roof slanting so as to form a loft above the rooms, the highest part of which is eighteen feet from the
December 7, 1804
The wind still continued from the northwest and the day is very cold: Shahaka [Big White] the chief of the
lower village came to apprise us that the buffalo were near, and that his people were waiting for us to join
them in the chase: captain Clark with fifteen men went out and found the Indians engaged in killing the
buffalo, the hunters mounted on horseback and armed with bows and arrows encircle the herd, and
gradually drive them into a plain or an open place fit for the movement of horse; they then ride in among
them, and singling out a buffalo, a female being preferred, go as close as possible and wound her with
arrows till they think they have given the mortal stroke; when they pursue another till the quiver is
exhausted. If, which rarely happens, the wounded buffalo attacks the hunter, he evades his blow by the
agility of his horse which is trained for the combat with great dexterity. When they have killed the requisite
number they collect their game, and the squaws and attendants come up from the rear and skin and dress
the animals. Captain Clark killed ten buffalo, of which five only were brought to the fort, the rest which
could not be conveyed home being seized by the Indians, among whom the custom is that whenever a
buffalo is found dead without an arrow or any particular mark, he is the property of the finder; so that
often a hunter secures scarcely any of the game he kills if the arrow happens to fall off; whatever is left
out at night falls to the share of the wolves, who are the constant and numerous attendants of the buffalo.
The river closed opposite the fort last night, [with ice] an inch and a half in thickness. In the morning the
thermometer stood at one degree below 0. Three men were badly frostbitten in consequence of their
exposure.
December 17, 1804
The weather to-day was colder than any we had yet experienced, the thermometer at sunrise being 45
degrees below 0, and about eight o'clock it fell to 74 degrees below the freezing point. From Mr. Haney,
who is a very sensible intelligent man, we obtained much geographical information with regard to the
country between the Missouri and Mississippi, and the various tribes of Sioux who inhabit it.
January 10, 1805
William Clark
about 10 o’clock the boy about 13 years of age Came to the fort with his feet frosted and had laid out last
night without fire with only a Buffalo Robe to Cover him, ... we had his feet put in cold water and they are
Coming too. Capt. Lewis took off the Toes of one foot of the Boy who got frost bit... Customs & the habits
of those people have trained [them] to bare more Cold than I thought it possible for man to endure.
Capt. Lewis took off the Toes of one foot of the Boy who got frost bit
April 25, 1805
Meriwether Lewis
The buffalo Elk and Antelope are so gentle that we pass near them while feeding, without appearing to
excite any alarm among them; and when we attract their attention, they frequently approach us more
nearly to discover what we are, and in some instances pursue us a considerable distance apparently with
that view.
April 29, 1805
Meriwether Lewis
(Meeting with two bear)
... the other after my firing on him pursued me seventy or eighty yards, but fortunately had been so
badly wounded that he was unable to pursue so closely as to prevent my charging my gun; we again
repeated our fir[e] and killed him. ... it is a much more furious and formidable animal, and will
frequently pursue the hunter when wounded. It is astonishing to see the wounds they will bear before
they can be put to death. The Indians may well fear this animal equipped as they generally are with
their bows and arrows or indifferent fuses, but in the hands of skillful riflemen they are by no means
as formidable or dangerous as they have been represented. ...
May 2, 1805
Meriwether Lewis
... snow ... being about one inch deep, ... the flesh of the beaver is esteemed a delicacy among us; I
think the tale a most delicious morsel, when boiled it resembles in flavor the fresh tongues and
sounds of the codfish, and is usually sufficiently large to afford a plentiful meal for two men.
May 5, 1805
Meriwether Lewis
(we scarcely see a gang of buffalo without observing a parcel of those faithful shepherds on their
skirts in readiness to take care of the maimed wounded. ...
Capt. Clark and Drewyer killed the largest brown bear this evening which we have yet seen. it was a
most tremendous looking animal, and extremely hard to kill notwithstanding he had five balls through
his lungs and five others in various parts he swam more than half the distance across the river to a
sandbar, & it was at least twenty minutes before he died; he did not attempt to attack, but fled and
made the most tremendous roaring from the moment he was shot. We had no means of weighing this
monster; ... this bear differs from the common black bear in several respects; it's talons are much
longer and more flaunt, it's tale shorter, it's hair which is of a reddish or brown, is longer thicker and
finer than that of the black bear; his liver lungs and heart are much larger even in proportion with his
size; the heart particularly was as large as that of a large Ox. his maw was also ten times the size of
black bear, and was filled with flesh and fish.
The party killed two Elk and a Buffalo today, and my dog caught a goat, ...
November 7, 1805
William Clark
Great joy in camp we are in view of the Ocean, this great Pacific Ocean which we been so long anxious to
See. and the roaring or noise made by the waves breaking on the rocky Shores (as I suppose) may be
heard distinctly
November 11, 1805
William Clark
... the wind very high from the S. W. with most tremendous waves breaking with great violence against
the Shores, rain falling in torrents, we are all wet as usual -- and our Situation is truly a disagreeable one;
the great quantities of rain which has loosened the Stones on the hill Sides; and the Small stones fall down
upon us, our canoes at one place at the mercy of the waves, our baggage in another; and ourselves and
party Scattered on floating logs and Such dry Spots as can be found on the hill sides, and crevices of the
rocks.
...made Signs that he got those clothes from the white people who lived below the point &c. those people
left us and crossed the river (which is about 5 miles wide at this place) through the highest waves I ever
Saw a Small vestals ride. Those Indians are certainly the best Canoe navigators I ever saw.
November 22, 1805
William Clark
O! how horrible is the day.
This Storm did not calm at day but blew with nearly equal violence throughout the whole day accompanied
with rain. O! how horrible is the day waves breaking with great violence against the Shore throwing the
Water into our Camp &c. all wet and confined to our Shelters,
... those roots are equal to the Irish potato, and is a tolerable substitute for bread.
November 23, 1805
William Clark
Capt. Lewis Branded a tree with his name Date &c. I marked my name the Day & year on a alder tree, the
party all Cut the first letters of their names on different trees in the bottom.
... Seven Indians of the Clot sop Nation came over in a Canoe, they brought with them 2 Sea otter Skins
for which they asked blue beads &c. and Such high prices that we were unable to purchase them without
reducing our Small Stock of Merchandise, on which we depended for Subsistence on our return up this
river. merely to try the Indian who had one of those Skins, I offered him my Watch, handkerchief a bunch
of red beads and a dollar of the American coin, all of which he refused and demanded "ti-a-co-mo-shack"
which is Chief beads and the most common blue beads, but few of which we have at this time
they Speak the Same language of the Chinnooks and resemble them in every respect except that of
Stealing, which we have not caught them at as yet.