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PIONEERING WOMEN OF JEWELRY DESIGN AND INSPIRATION PROFILED IN
MAKER & MUSE: WOMEN AND EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY ART JEWELRY
Maker & Muse: Women and Early Twentieth Century Art Jewelry celebrates the role of women, both as inspiration and
as designers/makers, in the creation of exquisite pieces of handcrafted art jewelry at the turn of the 20th century.
Accompanying a groundbreaking exhibition at The Richard H. Driehaus Museum in Chicago, Maker & Muse showcases
nearly 200 stunning pieces from the Driehaus Collection and prominent national collections, many of which have never
been seen by the public. The book is the most extensive survey to date of the sheer diversity and beauty of art jewelry
during this period, and offers a new perspective on women’s role within that world.
With essays by noted scholars and exquisite color photography, Maker &
Muse provides an overview of the international approach to art jewelry
during a time of radical change for women. It features a preface by collector
Richard H. Driehaus.
The text reveals new research about those who created or inspired art
jewelry, illustrating that women were not only the intended wearers of art
jewelry during the early 20th century, but also an essential part of its
creation. The work presented — boldly artistic, exquisitely detailed, hand
wrought, and inspired by nature— is now widely sought by collectors and
museums. From the world’s first independent female jewelry makers to the
woman as artistic motif, this jewelry reflected rapid changes in definitions of
femininity and social norms.
Maker & Muse explores five different areas of jewelry design and
fabrication: the Arts and Crafts movement in Britain, Art Nouveau in France,
Jugendstil in Germany and Austria, Louis Comfort Tiffany in New York, and
American Arts and Crafts in Chicago. The text details the important female
figures and social milieu associated with these movements, illustrated by
historic photographs and decorative arts of the period, as well as the
extraordinary works themselves. Pieces included in the book have distinct
characteristics depending on their origin, but all share a common bond of
superb craftsmanship executed in metals, richly colored enamels, and
stones, both precious and semi-precious.
Maker & Muse: Women and Early
Twentieth Century Art Jewelry
Richard H. Driehaus, Elyse Zorn Karlin,
Emily Banis Stoehrer, Sharon Darling,
Jeannine Falino, Yvonne Markowitz,
Janis Staggs
Principal photographer: John A. Faier
The Monacelli Press
February 3, 2015  $50.00
256 Pages  8.75 inches x 9.25 inches
ISBN 978-1-58093-404-6
Left to Right: Frederick James Partridge (English, 1877-1942) for Liberty & Co. (English, established 1875),
Tiara with Corn Design, c. 1900. Collection of Richard H. Driehaus; René Lalique (French, 1860-1945),
Winged Sylph Brooch, c. 1900. Collection of Richard H. Driehaus. © 2014 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New
York / ADAGP, Paris; Mrs. Philip (Charlotte) Newman (English, 1840-1927), Aquamarine Necklace in original
box, c. 1890. Collection of Tereza M. M. Driehaus. Photographs by John A. Faier, 2014, ©The Richard H.
Driehaus Museum. (High res images available here.)
About the Authors
Richard H. Driehaus, a Chicago businessman, philanthropist, and founder of the Driehaus Museum, is a prominent
collector of late 19th- and early 20th-century fine and decorative art.
Elyse Zorn Karlin, curator of Maker & Muse, is a jewelry historian and co-director of the Association for the Study of
Jewelry & Related Arts. She is an independent curator and author of several books on historical jewelry.
Emily Banis Stoehrer is the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator of Jewelry at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.
She was the co-curator of Hollywood Glamour: Fashion and Jewelry for the Silver Screen (2014) at the MFA.
Sharon Darling is a retired curator and museum director with a special interest in Chicago decorative arts. She curated
the seminal exhibition Chicago Silver and authored the accompanying book, which presented new research on the
Chicago Arts and Crafts movement.
Jeannine Falino is an independent curator, museum consultant and adjunct curator at the Museum of Arts and Design in
New York. She was co-curator of the recent exhibition Gilded New York: Design, Fashion & Society (2013) at the Museum
of the City of New York.
Yvonne Markowitz is the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator Emerita at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Among
her publications are American Luxury: Jewels from the House of Tiffany and Imperishable Beauty: Art Nouveau Jewelry.
Janis Staggs is associate curator at the Neue Galerie New York. In 2008 she curated Wiener Werkstätte Jewelry, the first
exhibition on the topic held in the United States, and authored the companion book.
About The Richard H. Driehaus Museum
Steps away from Chicago’s Magnificent Mile, the Driehaus Museum offers visitors a fascinating view of one of the few
remaining examples of the palatial homes erected by the wealthy of America’s Gilded Age. The galleries, elegantly
furnished with period pieces selected from the Driehaus Collection, are presented in harmony with the interiors and
surviving furnishings, immersing visitors in the original splendor of this late 19th-century house.
About The Monacelli Press
The Monacelli Press is a leading publisher of books on architecture, the fine arts, interior design, landscape architecture,
photography, and graphic design. Publisher Gianfranco Monacelli conceived the venture as a distinct and stimulating
voice in the visual arts to reinterpret and challenge the conventional boundaries of the field, to bring forth the best,
most provocative, and the most substantive of what the finest creative minds have to offer. The Monacelli Press has
published more than 250 books since it was established in 1994, books that are distinctive for both content and visual
presentation.
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