The rains continue pelting down on Tanakeke, a small island off the southern coast of Sulawesi in the middle of the Indonesian archipelago, and the surrounding seas continue to rise. At the water’s high point, the lower floors of homes are inundated about thirty to forty centimeters deep. Houses, schools and mosques are flooded from about 6 to 10 p.m., approximately the same duration as the daily supply solar-powered electricity. With increasingregularity over the past few years, the sea rises a couple of times a month for three to four days in a row at high tide during the rainy season January to April. How do people on Tanakeke cope with the rising seas and other signs of climate change? For starters, the 119 families of the village of Lantang Peo move their belongings to the top floors of wooden-stilt houses. Pots and pans, bags of rice, kerosene stoves and tools all go upstairs by the end of December. Haeruddin Daeng Ngenjeng, aged 57, tells a typical story of how his family has weathered the recent changes in weather. For over two decades, he farmed shrimp and milkfish in aquaculture ponds, a growing export industry across this part of the world in the 1980s and 1990s as global markets gobbled up more and more seafood. Imported inputs like feed and fertilizer as well as the capital to build the necessary dike walls were expensive, but the ponds yielded strong revenues and paid handsomely for five to ten years. Around the year 2000, a virus arrived and wiped out the shrimp. Farmers who persisted despite the virus attacks have watched helplessly as sea levels rise over the dike walls that corral their shrimp ponds, washing their livelihoods out to sea. Haeruddin has switched his focus to seaweed farming. Seaweed farming requires considerably less start-up capital. Strong ropes can be purchased at Takalar City on the mainland and need only be replaced about every three years. The ropes are tied to discarded plastic drink bottles floating on the sea surface at regular intervals, and carageenan seaweed grows on the ropes soaking just below the sea’s surface in the tropical sun. Seaweed mariculture requires less labor and no land, which Tanakeke is sorely lacking. Most villages erect their wooden stilt homes, schools and mosques on foundations of dead coral and inorganic garbage molded together with cement. Rather than re-enforcing ever-higher dikes to compete with the sea, many villagers are abandoning their shrimp ponds and cultivating seaweed. More than two-thirds of the mangroves surrounding Tanakeke had been destroyed to build over 1,200 hectares of shrimp ponds, at least 800 hectares of which are now disused. As incomes rebound with seaweed cultivation, more people are also engaging in restoration of the mangroves. Appreciation of their value as both weather buffer and wildlife nursery habitat has grown since those benefits disappeared. Over the past five years, 400 hectares of mangroves have been rehabilitated. Local efforts at rehabilitation began in the early 2000s after shrimp aquaculture began to wane, and it has taken on stronger momentum since the arrival of Mangrove Action Project (MAP)—Indonesia. Local villagers have been cooperating with scientists from MAP—Indonesia to implement Ecological Mangrove Rehabilitation (EMR), a multi-stage process pioneered by Dr. Roy Robin Lewis in Florida. EMR efforts tend to succeed where other rehabilitation efforts have failed due to extensive pre-project assessments of local ecology, hydrology and community. Post-planting monitoring by the community and mid-course corrections based on their observations also help. “Quote from Ben Brown or Rio or Ratna or someone from MAP about why EMR succeeds where other efforts (e.g. repeated government efforts, e.g. too dense, one species, etc.) have failed because it really takes account of holistic context, rather than simply planting lots of mangroves.” Mangrove rehabilitation is actually pretty easy – as long as you follow a few basic guidelines. Unfortunately, most mangrove rehabilitation projects worldwide are little more than publicity stunts, jabbing mangrove “seedlings” of one iconic species into the mud – usually below Mean Sea Level (MSL), where mangroves never survive (they live between MSL and high tide). This happens usually because there are no land tenure issues in intertidal mudlfats. EMR, on the other hand, offers a process of understanding what species of mangroves should be living in which locations, and addressing issues which are preventing them from naturally regrowing. In practice that looks like breaking down dike walls in a shrimp farm and digging tidal creeks to allow an area to flood and drain naturally. If mother trees are around, mangroves will then grown on their own. If not, we simply throw in a boatfull of seeds and fruits and let them plant themselves. Ben Brown – Founder – MAP-Indonesia MAP—Indonesia adopted the model of field schools, which bring farmers together in training groups of about 25 to one their methods toward sustainable practice as well as higher yields. Field schools have been operating in Indonesia successfully since the 1990s, initially focusing on rice cultivation. Pak Abdul Gaffar of the local agricultural extension office, which works with farmers on implementation of agricultural technology, also applies the field school model to climate change adaptation. The greatest adaptive resource at hand is the critical thinking skills of the locals, Pak Gaffar said, and field schools develop habits of critical thinking. “Long ago, farmers could adapt [to changing conditions],” Ratna Fadilah, a local project director at MAP—Indonesia said. “The young generation is more interested in modern education than local wisdom. Perhaps a better balance between the two can be restored through the field schools.” With more healthy mangroves once again surrounding Tanankeke, MAP ecologists and villagers both expect healthier fish stocks, the nutritional foundation of local diets. As declining shrimp and fish aquaculture for export gives way to seaweed farming, villagers are also practicing more sustainable forestry management of their remaining and rehabilitated mangroves. Public notice boards encourage only selective cutting. “You can see that [mangrove] rehabilitation is working,” said Iona Soulsby, a field ecologist from New Zealand with MAP—Indonesia who spent several weeks living and working with locals on Tanakeke. She cited improved hydrology and increased biodiversity of both flora and fauna in areas that were previously bereft of life. “The community definitely understands the value of their mangroves. Community education is a big part of the rehabilitation efforts.” Diversification of livelihoods would also improve resilience of these communities. Teachers as wells as farmers have become community organizers and field school trainers on this island with no computers. Seaweed farming seems a viable niche where landscapes are seascapes. Haeruddin Daeng Ngenjeng said that 20 people from his village of Lantang Peo each year for the past decade can go on the Haj—an expensive sojourn to Mecca and a hallowed aspiration for Muslims. Even in his good years in over two decades as a shrimp farmer, there wasn’t enough money for that trip.