Landscape Rehabilitation A Twelve-Step Program to a Sustainable Landscape Recommendations in seminar Apply to trees and shrubs (the backbone of permanent landscape) Are based on current plant and soil science for urban gardens Roadmap Understanding urban landscapes Analyzing and preparing landscape site Choosing appropriate and healthy plants Installing shrubs and trees correctly Maintaining landscapes sustainably Step 1: Accept that problems exist Urban soils are not natural soils Ornamental landscapes are not agricultural fields Improper landscape management = poor plant health Step 2: Analyze landscape conditions first Temperature, light, moisture gradients Seasonal changes What kinds of plants do well? Soil analysis Soil tests required – http://www.umass.edu/soiltest/ Texture? Moisture dynamics? Compaction? Organic matter? Minerals? Soil hydration Poor drainage flooding Poor retention drought Compaction Feet, vehicles, machinery and rainfall all compact soil Compaction water and air movement root movement Urban soil fertility OM issues – how much is present? pH issues – acid or alkaline? Nutrient issues – what’s missing? Step 3: Choose appropriate plants Consider both native and non-native, non-invasive species Consider mature sizes of trees and shrubs Myth: Native plants are always the best choice for environmentally sustainable landscaping Fact: Many native plants cannot tolerate urban conditions What is mature size? Depends on genetics Depends on local climate Depends on microclimate Step 4: Select healthy plants Are plants properly maintained (water, fertilizer, appropriately sized containers)? Can you see the root flare? (good) Are there surface roots? (bad) Have the crowns been topped? (bad) Step 5: Prepare soil Don’t dig a hole Don’t amend with organic matter (unless your soil is less than 5% OM by volume) Myth: Adding high levels of organic amendment improves soil Fact: Soil amendment temporarily increases drainage and reduces compaction, but over time heavily amended soils are more vulnerable to subsidence and compaction, and can lead to nutrient overload Evidence of organic overload Step 6: Remove all materials around roots Remove all foreign materials Remove container media or clay from B&B Keep roots moist at all times Bare-rooting improves root establishment by removing barriers Myth: Root balls must be left intact during transplanting Fact: Removing potting mix or clay from root ball: …eliminates barriers …allows for root correction …ensures planting at grade …enhances root growth Step 7: Prepare and correct roots Prune excessively long roots Correct root defects Keep roots moist at all times Step 8: Dig a hole to fit the roots Dig a shallow hole as deep as the root system and twice as wide In the center, form a soil mound to support the root crown Remove weeds and large stones Step 9: Install plants properly Arrange the roots radially over the mound Be sure root crown is at or above grade Backfill with the same soil that came out of the hole. DO NOT AMEND Water in, adding more soil as holes develop – don’t press or step on soil Step 10: Use coarse organic mulch Mulch will protect soil and reduces competition from turf and weeds Use at least 4” of mulch up to, but not touching, the trunk Do not use sheet mulches (including fabrics, plastic, cardboard) Myth: Landscape fabric provides permanent weed control Fact: Landscape fabric reduces water and air transport, interferes with plant root health, and does not stop weeds Benefits of organic mulches Slow release of nutrients Improve soil structure Enhance plant establishment Enhance beneficial soil microbes Enhance diversity of soil animals Step 11: Maintain sustainably Add a nitrogen fertilizer (no phosphorus) as a top dressing Water your tree well during the first year of establishment, especially if you’ve removed roots or are planting during hotter seasons Do not crown prune during root establishment. You will know your roots have established when leaf flush occurs Don’t waste money on transplant amendments Myth: Phosphate fertilizer stimulates root growth Fact: Excess phosphate destroys symbiotic fungi, interferes with nutrient uptake, contaminates soil and aquatic systems Myth: Transplanted plants should have their crowns pruned to compensate for reduced root mass Fact: Crown pruning redirects plant resources away from roots and towards new shoot development Step 12: Don’t be an enabler Stake low and loose Remove staking after one year Dig up and replant anything that cannot support itself Myth: Newly planted trees must be firmly staked Fact: Overstaked trees don’t develop taper and are more likely to snap after release Final thoughts Know your site, and your soils, before you add anything Anticipate how your landscape plants and soils will change over many years – not months Realize that improper management practices cause more plant mortality than any other environmental stress Understand that plant and soil management practices need to be sustainable Don’t look for gardening miracles in a bag, bottle or box For more information: Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott, WSU Associate Professor and Extension Urban Horticulturist Email: lindacs@wsu.edu Webpage: http://www.theinformedgardener.com; Blog: http://www.gardenprofessors.com Books: http://www.sustainablelandscapesandgardens.com