Thomas Hardy’s Dorset Drives
Tour One: Shorter Inner Tour
This inner Tour is the shorter of our two suggested circular tours of Thomas
Hardy’s Dorset. The names in parentheses are the fictional names given to
these places in Hardy’s novels. The Inner Tour should make for a nice day’s
drive – or an afternoon if you really hurry. The Outer Tour deserves more of
your time – perhaps two or three days. Of course, these tours can easily be
combined to suit your preferences and interests.
Dorchester (Casterbridge)
At the edge of Dorchester is Max Gate, designed by Hardy in 1885, and his
home for the rest of his life. Max Gate is now in the care of the National Trust.
The Dorset County Museum has a fine collection of Hardy memorabilia, and
numerous buildings in the town feature in Hardy novels.
Stinsford (Mellstock)
Thomas Hardy was christened at the church here, and his first wife Emma is
buried in the churchyard. Hardy himself wanted to be buried with her, but only
his heart is interred in Emma’s grave.
Higher Bockhampton (Upper Mellstock)
The lovely thatched Hardy’s Cottage is the author’s birthplace – now run by the
National Trust. The food at the nearby Yalbury Cottage is delicious!
West Stafford
The church in West Stafford is the likely marital place of Tess and Angel Clare
in Tess of the d’Uberville’s.
Woodsford
Hardy’s father was engaged to repair the thatched Woodsford Castle in 1856.
Hardy helped prepare the plans for the remodelling, and on the basis of this
work he was offered an apprenticeship to the architect John Hicks, owner of
Woodsford Castle.
Moreton
In the cemetery here is the grave of Hardy’s friend TE Lawrence; Lawrence of
Arabia.
Bere Regis (Kingsbere)
The town features in Tess and Far from the Madding Crowd. Tess set up her
family’s bed under the Tuberville window in the south wall of the church, and
inside the church are the tombs of the Tubervilles.
Athelhampton (athelhull)
Hardy’s father worked on the restoration of the superb medieval hall at
Athelhampton, and Hardy himself painted a watercolour of the house.
Puddletown (Wweatherbury)
Hardy’s grandfather and great-grandfather were Puddletown natives, and the
church gallery was celebrated by Hardy in Under the Greenwood Tree. In Far
From the Madding Crowd, Troy spent the night in the church porch.
Cerne Abbas (Abbot’s Cernel)
The village, more famous for the ancient figure of a giant carved into the hillside,
featured in The Woodlanders and Tess of the d’Ubervilles. The tithe barn in
Cerne Abbas may also be the model for the great barn in Far From the Madding
Crowd.
Tour Two: Longer Outer Tour
Weymouth (Budmouth Regis)
Hardy worked as an architect here in 1869-70, and the town features in Under
the Greenwood Tree. Should you want to have lunch here, see further on for
the list of recommended restaurants in Weymouth and Portland.
Wool
Woolbridge Manor was Hardy’s Wellbridge Manor, where Angel Clare and Tess
spent their honeymoon.
East Lulworth
Hardy worked on the restoration of St. Andrew’s church in 1863, and the church
now hosts a permanent exhibition on Hardy’s life.
Swanage (Knollsea)
Hardy lived in Swanage in 1875-6 and it was here that he wrote of Ethelberta.
Bournemouth (Sandborne)
Tess lived here with Alec d’Uberville, and the town also features in The WellBeloved and Jude the Obscure.
Poole (Havenpool)
In the Mayor of Casterbridge, Newson landd here on his return from
Newfoundland. The town features in two poems, The Chapel Organist and The
Mongrel.
Wimborne Minster (Warborne)
Hardy lived here from 1881-83 with his first wife Emma.
Salisbury (Melchester)
In Jude the Obscure, Jude worked at Salisbury Cathedral, and Sue and
Phillotson were married in St. Thomas’ Church. Sure attended the Teacher
Training College as did Hardy’s Two sisters in real life. It was at nearby
Stonehenge that Tess was arrested in Tess of the d’Ubervilles.
Shaftesbury (Shaston)
In Jude the Obscure, Philotson was schoolmaster here. Gold Hill in Shaftesbury
offers superb views over the Blackmoor Vale.
Marnhull (Marlott)
Just outside the village is Tess Cottage, thought to be the model for
Durbetfield’s home in Tess of the d’Ubervilles.
Sturminster Newton (Stourcastle)
Hardy and his first wife, Emma lived here at Riverside Villa in 1876-78. Hardy
called his stay here “our happiest time”.
Sherborne (Sherton Abbas)
Giles Winterborne sold his apple trees in the Market Place here in The
Woodlanders, and Sherborne Abbey also features in the novel.
Melbury Osmond (Great Hintock)
Hardy’s parents were married in the church here. And his mother grew up in a
thatched house nearby. The Woodlanders final scene also takes place in the
churchyard.
Beaminster (Emminster)
In Tess of the d’Ubervilles, Angel Clare’s father was vicar here.
Bridport (Port Bredy)
Bridport is the setting for the story Fellow-Townsmen, and the nearby secluded
harbour of West Bay is mentioned in the Woodlanders.
Portland (Isle of slingers)
The Isle of Portland, joined to the mainland by the narrow strand of Chesil
Beach, is the setting for The Well-Beloved.