Mammoth Caves (Kentucky, USA): Cave System 1. Zoom from Iguazu Falls to Mammoth Caves 2. Next Geologic Wonder is right in the middle of the US: Mammoth caves. The odd nature of a cave is that you can be right over one, and even live there your whole life, and have no idea it is there. You can’t miss a waterfall, but a cave can be very hard to find. 3. A cave is missing rock. But it can be more than that too. Next two lectures will look at two aspects of caves a. This lecture: remarkable missing rock; giant networks of cave passages; giant caverns, enormous holes than extend deep into the ground b. The next one will focus on some of the remarkable formation that we find in caves, forming after the caves themselves were made. 4. Mammoth Caves are big. It is hard to imagine how big they are: currently at 392 miles (630 km). The next largest cave network – South Dakota’s Jewel Cave: 150 miles. Not even close. [Show some pictures of Jewel Cave]. And hundreds of miles of other passages are nearby How does something like this happen? a. Most caves are in limestone – very abundant rock (we met it in the Grand Canyon) b. Though limestone is only about 10-15% of all sedimentary rocks, there are large portions of the continents that have vastly wide sheets of limestone somewhere at or under the ground. True for most of Eastern US c. Dissolution of CaCO3 by acidic water (carbonic acid; tannic acids) d. Location of water table (saturated underneath; but fluctuates over time) e. Caves form when water table is above them – passages of water develop, but it is a runaway effect – more water, more erosion f. Water table is high at certain times, such as runoff from melting ice sheets at end of Ice Ages – caves form g. Water table drops, and you can see caves. Iterative process. Impossible to tell how old some of the caves like Mammoth are – up to hundreds of millions of years, but could be much younger h. Missouri – more than 7000 mapped caves. Might be interconnected – very hard to tell. i. In Kentucky, the limestone is capped by a stiff sandstone layer that has kept the cave stable and prevented the ground from eroding down too quickly, protecting the cave network. 5. Show the network map – very hard to map – 3D structure, but no lights, and can’t use GPS! a. Tell some of Bob Osburn’s stories (He is in my department; regularly leads weekend cave exploration visits mapping out new cave segments b. Describe some of the features. Where the overlying sandstone cap is intact, no water leaks in from above, so the passageways have no stalactites or other formation. But where it is broken and water gets in, there are the classic formations, as at Frozen Niagara. c. Some of the passageways are vast. Some, that connect huge portions of the caves, are barely wide enough for a skinny person to squeeze through. d. It takes a certain personality to explore caves, crawling miles through tiny dark passages, sometimes with the rock above pushing down on top of you. 6. Caves often have interesting histories, because people may develop the land above, and then when the cave passages are discovered, there may be conflicts over who actually owns the cave. Sometimes hard to figure out! Mammoth cave, partly because of its great size, has had a particularly interesting history. a. Mummified remains of early native Americans – (Patty Jo Watson, of WashU, in the 1950s) – so well preserved, they could even find out what they ate (hunter-gatherers) (Native Americans had long uses the caves far a variety of purposes – like in Cooper’s Last of the Mohicans) b. Land purchased in late 1700s by Valentine Simons, who immediately started mining it for its saltpeter (potassium nitrate), which is a key ingredient of gunpowder. i. Very important source of saltpeter during War of 1812, when the British blockaded American ports, cutting off imports. c. But after the war, prices of saltpeter and other minerals fell, and mining in the cave ceased. d. This was the start of the cave, and many nearby, being used for tourism – especially with the discovery of a native American mummy. Cave changed hands many times, but it a slave who gave the tours, Stephen Bishop, who made the first maps of the cave and started naming features of the cave. e. At one point they even tried to use the cave as a hospital for tuberculosis victims, hoping the “vapours” would cure them (unsuccessfully, of course) – and Stephen Bishop and others would end up catching and dying of tuberculosis. f. In the late 1800s, with travel opened up by the railroads, Mammoth Caves became an international Geologic Wonder, and many famous people came to visit. i. Famous actor Edwin Booth (brother of John Wilkes) – a cave named “Booth’s Amphitheater” ii. Famous violinist Ole Bull gave a concert there – now a room called “Ole Bull’s Concert Hall” g. A severe competition between different caves for tourists, including planting misleading signs, telling tourists that another cave had been closed, etc. h. Mammoth Cave National Park was commissioned in 1926, but legal challenges surrounding personal properties overhead continued until 1941, when it became official. i. Since then, continued exploration has not only found new and unknown passages, but also found the links between many of the other competing caves, creating the massive network that exists today. 7. Today, the Park runs a set of tours to many parts of the cave (describe) 8. The cave is also a natural wonder – it has a unique ecosystem, that is very delicate and changes very slowly. a. Bats, blind and albino salamanders, etc. 9. Top 5: a. Hang Son Doong Cave (Vietnam) – made famous by the National Geographic feature – 200 m high, 150 m wide for 5 km – largest cave in the world; just discovered in 1991; fast flowing river inside b. Deer Cave (Borneo) – 170m wide and 120m tall for a kilometer! (2nd largest) c. Cave of Swallows (Mexico) – largest vertical shaft (370 m, from the high side of the cave mouth); the Chrysler Building in NYC would fit easily inside (just the top of the tower of the Empire State Building would stick out the top); widens to the bottom; have sent a hot air balloon down; people rappel down – takes about 20 min; It takes 10 s to freefall, so people skydive down it with a parachute. d. Skocjan Caves (slovenia) – vast underground canyon (3.5 km long, 140 m high, 10 to 60 m wide, with a huge river running through it) e. Special Mention: Voronya cave (Abkhazia, Georgia) – world’s deepest cave; 2080 m (1.3 miles!!) Questions: 1) Many cave systems often have channels that follow straight lines? How do you think these might have initially formed? 2) Why is limestone the most common host rock for caves?