CRAFT-FUR SHRIMP
Shallow-Water Version
By Luc Desjarlais
I developed this fly a few years ago to show the big
trout and reds of the grassy flats of Mosquito Lagoon
a realistic shrimp pattern. Snook and tarpon in the
creeks have hit it as well. The criteria were lightness
for a soft landing and a swim above the grass in
inches of water. Smaller versions have also been
successful on reds schooling or tailing and refusing
larger flies. This fly has no flash and no weight, since
it is for low and clear water. A weed guard is
optional. On the first cast, the dry Craft-Fur Shrimp
will suspend until moved. Once water logged, it will
sink at a slow rate. One main attraction is the slight
wiggling of the tail even in the slowest of
movements. You can let it sink slowly and,
maintaining the line taut, it will catch fish on the way
down. A few quick strips followed by pauses are
irresistible to most predators. This is often my default
fly in the winter.
Materials
Hook:
B10S by Gamakatsu, size 4 (very light, wide gape). Any saltwater hook standard or 1X long will
do, in bigger or smaller sizes. A heavier hook will increase the sink rate and stability.
Thread:
Danville’s Flat Wax Nylon, brown. Any strong thread (for flaring and spinning) will do.
Tail, Body:
Craft fur, tan and rust brown (or any two contrasting colors). Polar fiber, pseudo hair are good
substitutes for the tail and light colored segments of the body; rug yarn or any other material that
flares can be substituted for the dark segments of the body.
Legs and Head: Deer hair dyed brown or olive (or any other dark shade).
1. Put the hook in the vise upright and horizontal. Start the thread
approximately ¼” from the hook eye (leave space to spin deer hair
later) and cover the hook shank to the bend. Cut one clump of tan
craft fur. Holding the clump by the tips of the hairs, remove the fluff
(underfur, short hair) from the long (guard) hairs. Set the fluff aside.
Cut another clump and repeat until you have an adequate amount of
the long hair: this is the tail. Tie the clump of long-hair craft fur on
top of the hook with just two very tight wraps, on top of each other.
2. Fold back the stump end of the clump of craft fur over the hook
bend. Secure with two more tight thread wraps on top of this clump
and work the thread back in front of it. Add a drop of Instant Krazy
Glue at this stage to solidify the fly.
3. Take one of the clumps of fluff previously set aside and work them
into some kind of a uniform skein. Roll it with your fingers. Tie it
lengthwise on top of the hook, right behind the tail, with only one (or
a second, but right on top of the first) tight wraps of thread. Fold
back the front end; make two wraps of thread in front. It will keep
leaning forward a little; the next clump will push it back.
4. Cut out a clump of rust brown craft fur (or other contrasting color),
separate the fluff, work it into a uniform skein and tie it right behind
the previous clump same as above. Fold back the front end; take two
wraps of thread in front. Repeat this operation several times,
alternating colors, until you get close to the bare hook point. Do not
worry about the look of it at this time. To make the fly more durable,
turn the hook upside down in the vise and dab Hard as Nails or clear
lacquer generously all along the shank.
5. Cut a small bunch of deer hair from the patch, clean them and
align them. Measure them on the fly so that the tips of deer hair are
touching the barb of the hook. Spin the bunch of deer hair on the
hook, making sure a fair amount of tips ends up under the fly (these
are the legs and they are the only tips that we need; the others will be
trimmed as part of the head). Push the spun hairs back and work the
thread in front.
6. Cut another bunch of deer hair, this time a little bigger. Clean them
and cut the tips. Spin the bunch in front of the previous bunch. Push
the spun hairs back a little if you can and work the thread in front.
Stroking the hairs back gently with your fingers to expose the hook
eye, do several half-hitches or whip finish and tie off. Put a drop of
glue on the thread.
7. Start trimming with scissors, slowly, deer hair head first. Trim the
body by squeezing the flared craft fur between thumb and forefinger.
The idea is to end up with a fluid design and to leave a few, just a
few, deer hair tips under the fly as legs. If you leave too much deer
hair for legs, the drag in the water will cause the fly to turn on its side
when you strip it. You can stripe the tail with a permanent marker.
This is optional. Here I used a brown Sharpie.
8. If you want a weed guard, you can put a “V” weed guard before
spinning the head (step 5). Ande 40-pound mono is heavy and will
act as a keel in balancing the fly. Fold a 2.5-inch piece of mono and
crimp the tip of the “V” with pliers to score it. This will help catch it
at the hook eye with the thread. Cover over ¼” with tight thread
wraps. Bend the two pieces of mono back. A few turns of thread in
front will prop them up. Add glue. With the “V” weed guard, the first
bunch of deer hair will be prevented from spinning. Stack it instead,
fitting the hair tips (legs) between the two strands of mono and
flaring it with a few very tight turns of thread while holding it in
place. The rest of the head will spin the same, but not as well. You
may have to help it a little. After trimming the deer hair head and the
craft fur body (step 7), fold back the two stands of mono 1/8” past the
hook point by squeezing them together very hard with pliers. Cut the two strands 1/8” past the fold. This fold makes
mini skis at the tip of the weed guards. In the finished fly, this type of weed guard will disappear in the legs.
9. Another type of weed guard is the “post”. This weed guard must
be done before tying the fly. Use heavy mono, 50 pound minimum
and attach it under the hook shank. Bend the post gently, but do not
crimp it. A few tight wraps in front will keep it straight and rigid.
Trim the post a little longer than the hook gape. Then proceed to tie
the fly from step one above. This type of weed guard will also
interfere with the spinning of the first deer hair bunch (the legs) and
the same procedure as above should be followed. However, the
second deer hair bunch (the head) will spin unobstructed. The post
weed guard works better when the fly is attached to the tippet with a
loop knot.