Basic Horse Care Ebook
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BasicHorseCareEbook
Contents
Dressing for Work with Horses
Pg. 5
Behaviour around Horses
Pg. 6
Horse Behaviour
Pg. 7 – 9
Senses
Pg. 10 & 11
Catching and Releasing
Pg. 12
Leading
Pg. 12
Tying up a Horse
Pg. 13
Black
Pg. 14
Chestnut
Pg. 15
Brown
Pg. 16
Grey
Pg. 17
Bay
Pg. 18
Roan
Pg. 19
Palomino
Pg. 20
Buckskin/Yellow Dun
Pg. 21
Appaloosa
Pg. 22
Paint/Skewbald/Pinto/Piebald
Pg. 23
Leg Markings
Pg. 24
Head/Facial Markings
Pg. 25
Brands
Pg. 26
Points of the Horse
Pg. 27
Points of the Head and Neck
Pg. 28 & 29
Points of the Body
Pg. 30 - 33
Points of the Legs
Pg. 34 - 36
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Contents (cont.)
Hoof Parts
Points of the Hoof
Pg. 37 – 39
Horseshoes
Pg. 40
Picking out Hooves
Pg. 41
Rules of Feeding
Pg. 42
Types of Feed
Pg. 43 – 46
Preparing Feed
Pg. 47 & 48
The Paddock Kept Horse
Pg. 49
Paddocks/Pastures/Fields
Pg. 50
The Stabled Horse
Pg. 51 – 53
Providing Water
Pg. 54 & 55
Horse Travel
Pg. 56
Loading Procedure
Pg. 57
Unloading Procedure
Pg. 58
Feeding for the Season
Pg. 59 & 60
Rugs
Pg. 61 – 66
Rugging and Un-rugging
Pg. 67
Clipping
Pg. 68 – 70
Life Cycle of a Worm
Pg. 71
Common Internal Parasites
Pg. 72 – 74
Effective Parasite Control Measures
Pg. 75
De-Worming
Pg. 76 & 77
Using a Paste Wormer
Pg. 78
Types of Materials
Pg. 79
Types of Saddles
Pg. 80 & 81
Parts of a Saddle
Pg. 82
Taking Apart a Saddle
Pg. 83
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Contents (cont.)
Types of Bridles
Pg. 84
Parts of a Bridle
Pg. 85
Taking Apart a Bridle
Pg. 86 & 87
Care of Saddlery
Pg. 88 - 90
Bits
Pg. 90 – 92
Fitting a Bridle
Pg. 93
Saddlecloths
Pg. 94
Boots
Pg. 95 & 96
Other Equipment
Pg. 97 – 99
Horse Categories
Pg. 100
Horse Types
Pg. 101 & 102
Common Breeds
Pg. 103 – 108
Saddle Cloths
Pg. 109
Saddling a Horse
Pg. 110 & 111
Unsaddling a Horse
Pg. 112
Bridling a Horse
Pg. 113
Unbridling a Horse
Pg. 114
After Riding Care
Pg. 115 & 116
Senior Horses
Pg. 117
Natural Hoof Care
Pg. 118
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Dressing for Work with Horses
When working around horses you will
require practical clothing which will protect
you from the environment and from injury.
You can still dress for the weather
especially if it is hot but be sensible,
swimwear and thongs/flip-flops are not
going to give you much protection from the
sun or from being stood on. Casual wear
is suitable i.e. a shirt with sleeves, short
and enclosed footwear is suitable if you’re
not planning to ride. However remember
that work with horses can be grubby so
don’t wear your best casual outfits.
Head injuries are at the top of the list of
horse related accidents so wear a helmet.
It should be to the approved standard for
your country. Your helmet should fit snugly
onto your head without being so tight that
it produces a headache. If you nod your
head up and down the helmet shouldn’t
fall over your eyes, if it does its too big.
Helmets should be within 5 years old of
the date of manufacture. You should be
able to find this date on the helmet tag.
Helmets older than 5 years start to
deteriorate and may not protect your head.
Jewellery is also a hazard because it can
become caught in gear. If long hair is tied
back it will be out of your eyes and out of
the way (a hat or cap can also assist in
keeping long hair back).
Boots with a small heel are suitable for
riding. The heel will help to prevent your
foot sliding too far into the stirrup. There
should also be little to no tread on the sole
of the boot, riding boots will have a very
smooth sole this allows the rider to
remove the foot from the stirrup easily.
Boots with tread will grip to the stirrup
which is dangerous should an event arise
when you want to get your foot out in a
hurry. Boots with laces are also a hazard
as they can become tangled around the
stirrup.
When riding long pants will prevent your
legs from chaffing against the stirrup
leathers and saddle, they will also protect
your legs from vegetation if you’re out on a
trail ride. The long pants you wear should
be loose enough that you can bend your
knee and come down to your ankle. A shirt
with sleeves provides sun protection.
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Behaviour Around Horses
Horses are prey animals, this means that
if they interpret something as a threat they
will take to flight (running away). How you
behave around horses can influence how
they react to you. Even a horse which has
known you for a long period of time can
decide you pose a threat if your behaviour
or appearance changes. For example say
you normally enter the paddock carrying
two small white buckets but one occasion
you enter carrying a large black feed bin,
because you have ‘changed’ the normally
approachable horse may become a wild
fleeing horse.
It is better to maintain a quiet and calm
manner around horses than to be loud,
hurried and complacent. A complacent
person puts themselves at risk of injury.
However you should remain quietly alert
around horses to notice any changes in
behaviour. Even if you can’t see a horse
you will still be able to hear it.
Because horses cannot see directly
behind them they can get a fright and
even kick if you suddenly appear in their
field of vision (this is further explained in
the ‘Senses’ chapter of this workbook).
When you need to walk behind a horse you have two options.
1) Start at the horse’s shoulder, staying close with one hand on the horse walk around
the hindquarters all the time running your hand along and around the horse’s body.
By keeping your hand on the horse you let it know where you are.
2) Start the horse’s shoulder and walk in a wide arch around the hindquarters and move
back in towards the horse when you approach the shoulder. This method removes
you from the range of being kicked.
When moving around horses in a paddock situation it is best to give them a wide berth.
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Horse Behaviour
There are many different factors that will
affect or influence horse behaviour. The
younger a horse is the less experience
and knowledge they will have in certain
situations where an older, more
experienced/trained horse will be familiar
and confident. The older, more
experienced horses can be valuable to
help train or calm the young, nervous
horse especially during first outings at
shows and competitions where there will
be loud noises and unfamiliar sights and
surroundings.
Another influence is hormones. As mares
come into season during breeding times,
stallions (and some mares) will become
more difficult to handle.
Some external influences on behaviour
are the weather. In hotter weather a horse
will have less energy. During winter, a
horse which is clipped will often have
more energy. Other animals such as
unfamiliar dogs or even cattle or alpacas
will cause a change in behaviour.
Especially is the horse has never come
across that particular animal before. If the
animal is unfamiliar to the horse it may
regard it as a predator and this can be the
case for unfamiliar people.
The following are examples of common horse behaviour.
Kicking
When the horse lashes out with either one or both the hind
legs.
Striking
Horse lashes out with either one or both front legs.
Following up
When a horse follows a person or horse that is higher up in
the pecking order than itself. A natural behaviour
Biting
A sign of aggression where a horse will bare its teeth then
close them around another object
Shying/Spooking
Where a horse lacks confidence in their surrounding or a
particular object.
Easy to load
When a horse confidently walks onto a trailer for travelling.
Ears laid back
A fearful, aggressive or unhappy horse. The ears will be laid
back onto the neck
Grooming
Horses in a herd situation will often groom each other.
Rearing
Used to assert dominance or as an expression of
aggression, fear, nervousness, excitement or during play
Bucking
An expression of fear, nervousness, excitement or during
play.
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Horse Behaviour (cont.)
Within a herd situation there is a natural
order know as the ‘Pecking Order’ where
horses determine who is the most
dominant horse (the boss) to the least
dominant horse. To determine this order
horses may exhibit behaviours like biting,
kicking, striking and chasing other horses
around.
Once this order has been established
horses which are higher up in the pecking
order will access food or water before
horses in a lower position, often chasing
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the lower horses away from feed during
feeding times. It is important to ensure
when feeding horses in a group or herd
situation that feed is spaced out and there
are more feed rations than horses to
ensure everyone gets a chance to eat.
For this reason it is unwise to take feed to
help catch a horse in a group situation.
More than likely it will put you into an
unsafe situation where you are in the
middle of horses re-asserting their position
in the pecking order.
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Senses
Horses have the same 5 sensory systems as us, sight, touch, taste, hearing and smell but
with some important differences.
Sight
Horses have peripheral vision meaning the majority of their vision is
out to the side. Because of how their eyes are positioned on their head
horses can see along the side of their body but not directly in front or
behind them. This is why it’s important that when you approach a
horse you do so side on so you’re in their line of vision. This is the
primary detector of danger.
Touch
The most sensitive areas on a horse are the eyes, nose, lips, ears and
flank. For example of the sensitivity of this sense, a horse can detect a
fly anywhere on its body and chase it off with a flick of the tail. This is
the primary tool for communication between horse and handler/rider.
Taste
Like people horses will prefer the taste of some feed. Some fussy
horses will sift out the desired feed and leave that which it doesn’t like
in the bottom of the feed bin and often with incredible accuracy. This is
the case for medications mixed in feeds also. Sometimes molasses
can be useful in disguising medications.
Hearing
Horses can rotate their ears 180 degrees. This allows them to isolate
the direction the sound is coming from. Because of this ability the
handler/rider can easily see where the horses’ focus is. Their hearing
is sensitive, loud noises will usually put horses into a “flight” reaction
where they will run away.
Smell
Horses use smell not just only to identify food but also when greeting
new horses. A mare will use her sense of smell to identify her foal. A
stallion can detect when a mare is in season. Horses may also use
what is known as the “flehmen” response to smell. In this behaviour the
horse curls up the upper lip exposing the teeth. By doing this the horse
exposes the smell to a sensitive organ in the roof of the mouth to better
determine the smell.
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Catching & Releasing
Before handling a horse its best to find out
some basic information about it, for
example, age, basic description for
identifying, does it have any vices.
lead rope around its neck and remove the
halter/head collar. Pat the horse on the
shoulder then remove the lead rope from
the neck.
Once the appropriate information is sort,
using a halter and lead rope approach the
horse from the side, preferably the left or
near side, walking towards the neck and
shoulder region as this is the best place
the horse can see you and the most
appropriate place being that you’re going
to put a halter on.
When you are releasing numerous horses
into the same paddock on your own, make
sure the previous horse you’ve released
has moved away from the gate before
releasing the next horse.
Patting the horse on the shoulder slide
your hand up to its neck and slide the lead
rope around the neck.
Place the head collar/halter on the horses’
head and ensure it is fitted appropriately
with all the buckles (or knots if using a
rope halter/head collar) done up.
Lead the horse away and remember to
close the gate behind you especially if
there are other horses in the paddock,
don’t rely on the use of your body to block
the gateway.
When releasing a horse into its own
paddock (no other horses) lead it into the
paddock, closing the gate behind you.
Turn the horse to face the gate. Slide the
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If there are numerous people releasing
horses into the same paddock at the same
time. Once all are inside the paddock with
the gate closed, all handlers need to turn
their horses towards the gate and for
safety should be spaced out so there is
about 2-3 horse distances between them.
Then all the halters/head collars and lead
ropes are removed at the same time. The
reason behind this is safety. By releasing
them all simultaneously it reduces the risk
that a freed horse will come and cause an
unsafe situation with a horse that is yet to
be released.
Never use feed to catch a horse which is
kept with other horses. More often than
not you will attract all the horses which will
result in an unsafe situation as they will
fight and push each other out of the way to
get to the feed.
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Leading a horse
When leading or handling a horse is
important to do so in a safe manner, not
only for you safety but the horses’ as well.
When leading a horse you should be on
the near side (which is the left when your
facing the same direction as the horse).
Your right hand holds onto the lead rope
under the horses’ jaw and the left hand
hold the rest of the rope, in a tidy fashion,
up off the ground. Never wrap the lead
rope around your hand.
Avoid dragging the horse along behind
you on a long lead. You will have very little
control over the direction of the horse. If it
gets a fright or excited it may try to run
back in the direction it came from or it may
run past you with the possibility that it
kicks out or knocks you down as it goes
past. A shorter lead, with the horse by
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your side gives you greater control and
influence over where the horse is going.
When leading through gateways make
sure the gate is open wide enough for the
horse to pass through easily. Horses can
become entangled and do themselves
injury (even break bones) from getting
caught up in gates which weren’t open
wide enough. By leading the horse
through the middle of an open gateway
you will reduce this risk further.
When you need to turn your horse while
leading it is best to turn the horse away
from you. This means that you will turn the
horse to the right (because you will lead
from the near/left side) by doing this the
horse’s hooves step away from your feet,
reducing the risk of you being stood on.
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Tying up a Horse
You should always tie your horse with a quick release knot to a pole or post rather than a rail,
as rails break very easily. Tying horses to a piece of baling twine/string which is around the
post means is the horse pulls back it will break the string not the post, minimising injury as
well.
How to Tie a Quick Release Knot
a) Loop the end of the rope around the post/thru the twine. So that there is about 3040cm of rope from the post to the horse.
b) With the end of the rope, make a loop over the end which connects to the horse,
keeping it close to the post
c) Then make another loop in the end and past that thru the first & pull so that both
loops pull tight around the horse end of the rope.
d) To untie, simply pull on the end of the lead rope.
Using a quick release knot allows you to untie the horse quickly, by simply pulling the end of
the rope, should a situation arise where for safety it is better to release the horse from being
tied up.
It is important to never use the rein of the bridle to tie a horse up. This is because if a
situation arises where the horse tries to pull back to get away it will do serious damage and
injury to it’s mouth.
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Black
A solid colour with black body, legs, mane, tail, muzzle, flanks and ears.
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Chestnut
The chestnut colour of a horse can vary in intensity. This colour comprises of a shade of red
or reddish brown body and legs with a simular mane and tail which can be darker or lighter
in colour, but never black. They can have white markings which may have pink skin
underneath.
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Brown
A black to dark brown body with brown areas around the flanks, muzzle and eyes.
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Grey
Usually born black, white hair gradually increases in the coat as they get older starting with
the face dna legs. One of the parents of a grey horse is always a grey.
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Bay
Light brown to dark red/brown body with black mane, tail and legs. Bay horses are
characterized by a reddish brown body colour with a black mane and tail. The edges of the
ears and the lower legs are also black. These are referred to as black points. Bay horses
can have white markings, except for the breed known as a Cleveland Bay, which is only
allowed to have a small white marking on the head to be registered with the stud book.
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Roans
A solid base colour such as black, chestnut or bay mixed with white hairs. The head, legs,
mane and tail are the solid base colour.
Black/Blue Roan
Red Roan (also referred to as Strawberry Roan)
Bay Roan
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Palomino
Golden colour body with white mane and tail.
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Buckskin/ Dun
A gold or tan coloured coloured coat and black mane, tail and legs (black points). Dun
coloured horses have sandy yellow to reddish brown coats with a black stripe down the
middle of their back (known as a dorsal stripe) and the mane and tail darker than the coat
and the legs and head darker still.
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Appaloosa
This is also a breed. A spotted colour of white and another base colour such as black, bay or
chestnut. There are 5 different patterns recognised:- blanket, leopard, few spot leopard,
snow flake, roan and frost.
Leopard
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Blanket
Few Spot Leopard
Snowflake
Frost
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Paint/Skewbald/Pinto/Piebald
Irregular patches of any basic body colour mixed with white.
The difference between all these colours can be quite confusing. Wikipedia describes a paint
as a horse with that has the colour characteristics of a pinto but with quarter horse or
thoroughbred bloodlines. Whilst a pinto is described as a horse with large patches of white
with any other colour and of any breed.
Depending upon which country you are from you may refer to piebald and skewbald
differently from someone from another country. To the British a piebald is a horse with black
and white colouring and a skewbald is a horse made up of white and any colour except black.
Paint
Piebald
Skewbald- sometimes referred to as tri-coloured
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Leg Markings
ABCDEFG-
White heel.
White coronet.
White half pastern
White pastern.
White sock.
White partial/half stocking.
White stocking
Leg markings are described by how far up the leg the white goes. Horses may have a
combination of markings on different legs e.g. socks on the front legs and stockings on the
back legs.
Ermine Spots/Markings:These are often seen in leg markings and are black or dark coloured spots in a white
marking.
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Head/Facial Markings
A- Star.
B- Stripe.
C- Snip.
D- Blaze.
E- Baldy/white face
These are described by shape and location. Some horses may have a combination of facial
markings e.g. star and a snip or star and stripe.
Head and leg markings are natural markings which the horse is born with
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Brands
Branding is a man-made method of identifying horses (therefore horses are not born with
brands).
Brands include information regarding the stud the horse was bred at, the year of its birth and
the number foal it was for that year.
This is an example of the stud or
breeders brand, unique to that stud or
breeder.
Here is an example of the numbering
system. “33” is the number this foal
dropped in the breeding season. And ‘1”
is an indicator of the year it was born. For
example 1991, 2001. Other information
may need to be sort from teeth and
physical development to help gauge the
year of birth.
There are two types of branding.
Freeze brandingDone using a very cold branding iron. This method alters the
colour pigmentation of the hair. The hair will grow back white,
permanently.
Fire brandingThis type uses a very hot branding iron. The area branded
scabs, producing scar tissue and usually very little hair
will grow back. This type of brand can be much harder to
read.
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Points of the Horse
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Points of the Head and Neck
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Points of the Head and Neck (cont.)
Desirable qualities for a horse to have in this area are large eyes, broad forehead between
the eyes and a clean gullet. The ideal length of the neck should be relative to the length of
the legs or approximately 1/3 of the horse’s body length. The neck should ‘blend’ well to the
shoulders.
Head types:Dish face- a slight concave and bulging of
the forehead. Usually associated with
Arabian breeds.
Roman nose- a convex head, associated
with heavier breeds like draught horses.
Neck types:Short neck- Doesn’t affect flexibility and can
be seen in many breeds. Horse’s with a short
neck may be thicker through the gullet which
can may flexing at the poll more difficult.
Large crest- This can be seen in ponies and
draught horses and not just stallions. Usually
from obesity which results in fat deposits
along the top of the neck.
Ewe neck- Can occur in any breed. The
horse carries itself with a high head carriage
resulting in the musculature building on the
underside of the neck. Can be changed with
correct training.
Good neck- Can be seen in any breed, its is
proportional and smoothly connects to the
shoulder.
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Point of the Body
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Points of the Body (cont.)
The conformation of the shoulder will impact on how the horse moves and how comfortable
the horse is to ride.
Straight, upright shoulders:Are common in any breed but have less of an ability to be able to lengthen the stride and
have rough movement. But horse’s with this type of shoulder are capable accelerating
quickly and are usually suited to sports which require quick bursts of speed.
Sloping shoulders:These shoulders are common horse’s with this type of shoulder are able to greatly lengthen
the stride they all tend to have movement which is more comfortable. Sloping shoulders are
sometimes accompanied by high withers and a deep chest.
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Points of the Body (cont.)
The conformation of a horse’s back can determine the strength of the back muscles and the
horse’s ability to use its hindlegs.
Short back- Can have a lack of flexibility
and the stride may be stiff. But are good for
horse’s which are required to be agile.
Long back- Horse’s with a long back are
usually weak in the loins. Movement is
comfortable to ride however the back length
may affect the ability to be powerful with the
hindlegs. This back can lead to a sway back.
Sway back- A concavity between the withers and the croup. It is associated with a long back
and weak loins. It can usually be seen on horse’s with age but they can still be ridden and
are best suited as pleasure horses as the sway makes it difficult for the horse to balance and
obtain speed and may become sore and tired over the back from excessive weight.
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Points of the Body (cont.)
The loins and croup:-
Roach back- A raised section of the back
where the loins and croup meet, it can be
associated with a short back, due to reduced
motion in the vertebrae the horse may tend
to take shorter steps with the hindlegs.
Steep croup- The croup is the section of the
back between the top of the tail and the hip.
A steep croup can be linked to a shorter
stride.
Flat croup- Horse’s with this type of croup can have a long stride.
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Points of the Leg (Cont.)
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Points of the Legs
The conformation of a horse’s leg will affect how it moves and the ‘soundness’ (whether or
not the horse is likely to go lame (sore) or develop lameness problems). Defects will place
excess strain on ligaments, tendons and joints in the leg.
Front legs side view:-
From left to right. 1) normal, correct position. 2) front legs are camped under. 3) front legs
are camped out. 4) over at the knee. 5) back at the knee.
Front legs front view:-
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Points of the Legs (cont.)
Hindlegs side view:-
From left to right. A) Is the skeletal view. B) Correct conformation. C) Sickle hocked.
D) Post legged. E) Camped under.
Hindlegs rear view:-
From left to right. A) Correct. B) Cow hocked. C) Cow hocked & splay footed. D)
Pigeon toed. E) Base narrow. F) Base wide.
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Hoof Parts
No matter what breed or colour your horse is the hoof structure is the same. Some horses
will have poorer hoof conformation (the general shape and arrangement of parts) whilst
others will have good, strong hooves.
The outside structure is hard and continually grows, because the hoof is always growing it is
important to get them trimmed every 6 – 8 weeks to keep them healthy and in good order.
The inside structure contains soft tissue and bone. The hoof is elastic and flexible to allow
them to expand upon ground contact.
Front hooves are shaped differently to the hind hooves, the front will be more circular and
round whilst the hind more angular.
Front hoof
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Hind hoof
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Points of the Hoof
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Points of the Hoof (cont.)
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Points of the Hoof (cont.)
Hoof wall:The hoof wall grows downwards from the coronet band they cover the internal structure and
act as a protective layer. Tough and elastic it acts as a concussion and grips to terrain
surfaces. Hoof walls can be pigmented. White hooves are said to be softer than darker
hooves. The hoof wall is insensitive. This is clearly demonstrated in shod horses (horses
with shores shoes) as the nails are driven into the hoof wall to hold the shoe on.
White
Mixed
Black
Coronet band:This is where the hoof horn (wall) grows from. Any skin colour pigment at the coronet will
generate the colour of the hoof horn i.e. pink skin at the coronet will mean white hoof growth,
dark skin pigment results in drak hoof growth.
White line:It is soft and fibrous in structure and holds the hoof wall and the sole together. This line is
more sensitive than the hoof wall. Ifa nail is driven into the hoof wall at an incorrect angle it
will cause discomfort to the horse should it come into contact with the white line.
Sole:The sole can vary in colour,it covers the underneath surface of the hoof from the wall to the
frog and bars.
Frog:It is triangluar in shape with the apex extending across the sole. The frog has a rubbery
consistency and assists in circulation by pumping the blood back up the leg. It is also
suggested that it acts as a shock absorber and a grip on surfaces.
Bars:Originate at the heels and fold inwards from the walls and bear weight along with the sole
and wall.
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Horseshoes
Horseshoes are used to protect the hoof
from wear and tear. Farriers or
Blacksmiths attach the shoes using nails
which are driven through the hoof wall,
which is insensitive so it causes the horse
no pain. Horseshoes can come in various
different styles and can be made out of
various materials depending upon what
the horse is being used for and what the
horse’s hoof requires will decide what
shoe is used.
Materials that shoe may be made of
include aluminium, steel, alloy, plastic and
rubber. Aluminium shoes are lighter
therefore suited to sports which require
This hoof is outgrowing the shoe because
the toe has started to curve out along the
ground.
speed or finesse such as racing or
dressage. Steel is heavier but lasts longer
which is suited to horses which participate
in polo, eventing or show jumping.
The term ‘reshod’ means that a horse will
have its shoes removed so that the
hooves can be trimmed then the shoes will
be reshaped or replaced and put back on
again. Horses that are shod (wear
horseshoes) should be re-shod every 4 –
6 weeks. Signs that a horse may need to
be re-shod may include risen clenches,
missing nails, bent or broken shoes or
when the hoof has outgrown the shoe i.e.
the hoof has become too big for the shoe.
The red line in this image illustrate the four
clenches (nails holding the shoe on which
have been bent over) in the hoof.
Because the shapes of front and hind hooves are different, horseshoes also come as front or
hind shoes.
Front shoe
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Hind shoe
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Picking out Hooves
Regularly cleaning the horses feet is
important as often stones or small sticks
will become wedged in them, particularly if
the horse is wearing shoes. Its also
important as cleaning the hooves will allow
you to check for any injury or conditions in
this area.
In the event of a horse that is difficult to
handle when picking up its legs, you can
have a second person hold the horse so
that it is flexed (slightly looking) towards
the difficult leg or push the shoulder/hip
away from you so that you shifted the
horse slightly off balance.
Front legs:-
this use your shoulder to help push the
horses’ weight off the leg.
When picking a front hoof stand beside
the horses’ shoulder, facing the
hindquarters. Pat the shoulder and run
your hand down the back of the horses’
leg. As you reach the fetlock slide your
hand to the inside of the leg and apply a
gentle but firm pressure to the back of the
fetlock in an upwards, pulling motion.
Alternatively you can gently squeeze the
tendons at the back of the leg. Whist doing
Back legs:The procedure is the same for hind legs
but once the hoof is off the ground it is
necessary to bring the hoof/leg back a
little behind the horse so you can see what
you are doing. Be careful not to bring the
leg so far back that it the horse has trouble
keeping its balance. Because the hind
legs are much heavier than the front (and
many horses will tend to lean on you when
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Once the hoof is off the ground support it
with your and by holding around the
pastern/coronet region of the leg. With the
hoof pick in your other hand, clean the
hoof starting at the heel and picking away
from you to the toe. Then place the hoof
gently onto the ground, do not merely drop
the hoof when you’re finished.
a hind leg is picked up.) it may be easier
to rest the cannon bone on your knee, still
supporting the hoof with a hand, whilst you
pick out the hoof.
When finished bring the leg back under
the horses’ body and place the hoof gently
on the ground.
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Rules of Feeding
Horses have a very sensitive and delicate digestive system, they are unable to regurgitate
food which means if the ingest something they are not suppose to it can have dire
consequences. Listed below are some common rules to guide the feeding routine and
maintain digestive health.
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Feed little and often
Make feed changes slowly
Feed good quality feed
Feed plenty of bulk. Maintain a higher ratio of roughage to concentrates
Maintain a routine and feed at regular times
Provide clean water
Measure feed by weight not volume
Feed amounts for the work that is being done rather than feeding in anticipation of
the work to be done
When feeding numerous horses in the same paddock, ensure there is more feed
locations than horses. Keep horses widely spaced apart
Monitor the horse or pony’s weight and condition. Restrict feed is it becomes too fat
Maintain a higher calcium to phosphorous ratio in the diet
Feed off the ground, in a container or feed bin. Horses may pick up sand and dirt
from eating off the ground which can lead to colic.
Never feed a horse lawn clippings, lawn clippings can become contaminated from oil or
grease from the cutting machine and clippings may begin to ferment which can cause illness
to the horse.
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Types of Feed
Chaff
Chaff is hay which has been chopped up into small flakes. It is a source of roughage and the
nutritional value will depend upon the type used. Lucerne chaff is a good source of calcium.
Chaff can be added to feeds to encourage a horse to eat more slowly and therefore digest
better and reduce the chances of choking and colic.
Lucerne chaff:Lucerne chaff is chaffed lucerne crop. It is a good source of
roughage and has a higher calcium to phosphorous ratio.
Introduce prime green lucerne gradually into diets as it can
cause colic in some horses.
Wheaten chaff:Wheaten chaff is produced from the wheat stubble or hay
portion of a wheat crop.
It is a source of roughage in the diet.
Oaten chaff:Oaten chaff is the chaffed stubble or hay portion of an oat
crop. The energy value of this chaff will depend upon how
much grain remains in the chaff.
(Image shows oaten hay before it has been chaffed)
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Types of Feed (cont.)
Common Types of Hay
Hay is also a source of roughage and is especially good for feed horses who have little
pasture or little access to pasture, such as stabled horses. The type of hay you use will
depend upon the nutritional requirements of the horse and to some degree the seasonal
patterns of crop growing.
Lucerne hay:Which is also known as alfalfa is a source of roughage and
the leaves are the highest source of nutritional value, though
they are easily lost during the manufacturing process. The
quantity of leaf can be used as a guide for the quality of the
hay.
Grass hay:Is grass which has been grown, harvested and
manufactured into hay essentially it is dried grass. The
nutritional value will depend upon the type of grass.
Barley hay:This hay has a lower calcium to phosphorous ratio than
lucerne hay however it is safe to feed to horses and the lack
of calcium can be made up in a mixed feed with lucerne
chaff. It is usually produced during the cooler months and is
a cheaper option when feeding horses in times of drought
when lucerne hay may be quite expensive.
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Types of Feed (cont.)
Concentrates
Concentrates are grains, mixes, pellets or supplements which are fed to a horse to provide it
with nutrition which it may not be getting from the pasture or that may be reduced from
workloads.
Oats:Are a very popular feed. They are more suited to
the digestive system of the horse than some other
concentrates but also have a higher fibre rate and
lower energy rate than other grains. Oats are low in
calcium and high in phosphorous.
They are available as whole, crushed, rolled,
crimped and cracked varieties.
Corn:Has a higher energy and lower fibre rate than oats.
It too is available cracked, crushed or whole. Care
must be taken feeding it as mould corn is poisonous
to horses and it is easily over-fed.
Sunflower seeds:The black variety are better suited to horses. They
are a good coat conditioner and high in energy. The
seeds can be brought as whole or cracked.
Sunflower seeds may need to be soaked when
feeding them to older horses to soften them up.
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Types of Feed (cont.)
Bran:Bran can be a product of wheat or rice.
Wheat bran is useful as a laxative and is usually fed
dampened as it can be dusty. Wheat bran does
have a high phosphorous content.
Rice bran can be used to put weight on a horse.
Bran is a by-product of the milling production of
grains.
Pollard and Millrun are very simular to this feed but
vary in nutritional value.
Barley:Is highly digestible when it has been cracked,
crushed or flaked.
Pre-Mixed Feeds:The feeds are ones you can buy already mixed and
ready to go. Pre-mixed feeds are usually produced
with a specific purpose in mind i.e. for a breeding
mare or growing yearling or a horse in work. These
feeds will be labelled with the nutritional details as
well as the recommended feeding rates.
These feeds are typically designed to be fed in
conjunction with chaff and roughage rather than a
‘complete’ meal.
They will often contain other vitamin and mineral
supplements.
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Preparing Feed
When preparing feed for a horse you need
to consider the horse as an individual (i.e.
fussy eater, aged horses), the current
condition and feed being consumed by the
horse, the workload it is currently
performing and any health issues the
horse may have (i.e. a horse with
respiratory problems may required hay to
be fed dampened).
Always measure feed by weight rather
than volume. This is because feeds that
are measured to the same weight will
have different volumes i.e. 500grams of
corn will have a different volume to
500grams of oats.
A horse’s digestive system in designed to
take in small amounts of simular types of
food all day long so it is important to take
this into consideration when designing a
feeding regime. 2-3 small feeds each day
will be better suited to the digestive
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system than 1 large feed. That is also why
it is important to introduce new feed or
feed quantity changes slowly.
Feed needs to stored in a manner where it
will be away from moisture. Wet feed will
quickly become mouldy and then be
unsuitable to feed. It should also be stored
so to keep it from rodents and their faeces.
Mould and rodent faeces that are ingested
by the horse can have serious health
consequences.
Using wooden crates are a good way to
keep hay bales off the ground, away from
moisture. Hay should also be stored under
cover to keep it from getting wet and
drying out. Chaff and concentrates can be
stored in drums (old, rusted drums are
unsuitable) with a lid to keep rodents out.
Old, empty and clean garbage bins are
also useful for this purpose. Try to keep
feed in a place where horses will not be
able to get to it for example in a shed or
room with a door.
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Preparing Feed (cont.)
Poor quality feed can be indicated by dust,
heat and mould. Dusty feed, such as hay,
may still be able to be used if it is soaked
in water. However feed which is mouldy or
feels hot should be disposed of in a
manner which will not be assessable by
horses.
Mouldy corn
Good, clean corn
Horses should always have access to
clean, fresh water. Poor quality drinking
water can lead to health problems. A
horse can consume approximately 20-25
litres of water a day and in hotter
conditions and climates this can be from
30-60 litres a day. However a horse’s
consumption of water should be limited
initially when it finishes work. Allowing a
horse to drink large quantities of cold
In this image you can seen how the hay net
string has been threaded through the bottom
of the net and tied up again. This means that
once the net is empty it won’t hang in a long
position where the horse can become
entangled in it
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water after a heavy workload can lead to
colic. If the horse is at a risk of
dehydration then small amounts of water
can be offered sparingly.
Hay nets are useful for keeping hay up off
the ground. There are a couple of different
sorts available including poly hay nets
which are just that- a net and a hay bag
which is usually made from canvas and
has a hole where the horse can access
the hay inside. The hay bag tends to
reduce waste as the hay is enclosed
inside but both items encourage slower
digestion as the horse will have to pick the
hay out of the bag or net. When tying up a
hay net it should be secured at about
wither height- too high and the hay will fall
into the horse’s eyes, too long and the
horse’s legs can become entangled in it
once it is empty.
A hay bag. The bag is filled from the top and
the horse eats from the round opening.
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The Paddock Kept Horse
Horses which are kept outdoors will
require checking at least once a day. If
you have poor quality or little pasture you
may need to feed twice a day. Horses kept
in paddocks have more opportunity to
exhibit natural behaviours and so are less
likely to develop boredom related
behaviours.
When you attend to a horse in a paddock
you should routinely check for injuries and
the condition of the paddock i.e. is the
fencing broken. Paddock kept horses will
be more exposed to the elements so a
horse may require rugging when it is cold
or raining. The hooves should be clean
daily to remove dirt and debris and any
stones or sticks that may have become
wedged under the hoof.
by weeds or poor quality grasses will have
little if any nutritional value. Good paddock
management practices can help to reduce
weed growth in a paddock. Rotating
paddocks regularly to avoid over grazing
will assist in giving the paddock a ‘rest’ to
allow pasture to regrow. Over grazing
leads to good, quality pasture being eaten
to the point where it doesn’t regrow and
leads to weeds setting in.
Planting improved pastures is an option,
but an expensive one especially if you are
keeping your horse on someone elses
land (agisting)!
Weeds can be removed by hand if you
have time or by regular spraying however
horses will need to be kept away from
sprayed plant material.
The quality and quantity of the pasture
may determine how much you need to
feed the horse. pasture which is over run
Poor Pasture.
This paddock contains weeds, little grass
and patches of dirt. It also appears a little
unsafe due to the wooden rails sticking out.
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Good pasture.
There is no weeds and the fencing is easy to
see and in good condition
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Paddocks/Pastures/Fields
Having a well maintained paddock will help to prevent unnecessary injury to a horse.
Some desirable and safe qualities to look for in a paddock are
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Well sighted fences (meaning fences that can be easily seen)
Sunny areas
Watering points that, if shared by numerous horses, can be access by a few at a time.
(e.g. not in the corner of the paddock or yard)
Shaded areas
Areas which are protected from wind
Strong secure fencing with no sharp or rough edges
Good pasture
Some undesirable and unsafe qualities are
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Holes (e.g. rabbit holes)
Rubbish (e.g. old tyres, timber scraps)
Small gateways (e.g. not big enough for a horse, coming off hinges)
No sun or wind protection
Dirty water (e.g. stagnant creek)
Poor fencing (e.g. loose, flimsy)
Poisonous plants/weeds
Rusty wire
Chemical residue
The safety considerations to include when working in horse facilities are:
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Ensuring no sharp edges on things like walls, fences, feed bins, gateways.
Keep horses separated from spectators, pedestrians and traffic (e.g. fences, signs,
Separate entrances for horses & people, traffic officers)
Fences shouldn’t be flimsy or have loose wire the horse can get caught up in.
Gateways need to be wide enough & should swing freely in both directions (i.e. not
coming off the hinges)
Walkways should have secure footing that isn’t slippery
Working/exercise areas/arenas need footing that is secure, non-slip and free from
holes
Free from dangerous objects
Keep areas well maintained
Areas used during the night should be well lit
“No smoking” policies and signs
Regulations banning smoking & the use of naked flames
Check fodder for heat and mould
Appropriate fire extinguishers/hydrants located around facilities
Fire drills, escape routes and procedures in place and accessible for staff and public
Fire breaks around buildings and facilities
In the case of fire, rugs and blankets should be removed from horses
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The Stabled Horse
Regardless of what type of bedding is used, the process will be very simular. Stalls/stables
should be cleaned out at least twice a day for a horse which is not turned out.
It is safer for both you and the horse, to clean the stable whilst the horse is out of the stall
but if doing so isn’t practical then tie the horse up to one side of the stall.
Method of mucking out:1. Using your fork, remove manure and wet or soiled bedding. You may find it easier
when working with straw, to pile up clean bedding on one side of the stall. If you are
going to do so, pile it away from the horse
2. If your cleaning out sawdust or shavings, scoop the manure up with the fork and
shake to release excess sawdust so that all that will be left on the fork is the waste
3. You will also need to remove any stray bits of hay
4. With sawdust/shavings, use the shovel to remove wet patches
5. Once the stall is clean you need to replace the bedding which has been removed
with fresh material
6. Rake the bedding so that it slopes up the walls. This will help to prevent the horse
getting cast (rolling and getting stuck against the wall)
7. Take the dirty bedding and manure to the manure pile/muck heap
8. Sweep up outside the stall
Sprinkling lime or detergent onto the floor will assist in keeping odours and bacteria to a
minimum.
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The Stabled Horse (cont.)
Horses which are kept in a stabled
environment will need attending to at least
twice a day. This is because they are
confined to a small area, with no access to
grazing and no opportunities to self
exercise.
As mentioned in earlier workbooks the
horse’s digestive system is designed to
take in small quantities of food at regular
intervals therefore a stabled horse will
need more feed, in particular roughage, to
maintain weight because it will have no
access to pasture. Providing hay in
morning and afternoon (and if possible
some horses may require extra at lunch)
helps to maintain a healthier digestive
pattern and reduce boredom.
Some horses will be messier than others
when kept in a stable. Some are easy to
clean up after and will leave droppings all
in one spot in the stable while others will
walk it through the bedding, requiring
manure to be sifted out. A dirty stable can
lead to health problems, especially in the
hooves. A stabled horse should still have
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its hooves cleaned out daily to remove
manure and bedding from building up and
trapping moisture and bacteria from
building up in the hoof which can lead to
thrush. Thrush infections result in a black
substance on the sole and frog of the hoof,
strong odour and crumbly hoof horn.
Some horses may become lame when
thrush is present.
Horses which are stabled all the time need
exercise. Whether this be turning the
horse out into a paddock or yard for a few
hours daily or regular exercise or training
will depend upon your situation. Horses
that are not provided with opportunities to
exert energy become difficult to handle,
can develop boredom habits such us
weaving (swaying from side to side) and
crib-biting (sucking in air) and sour in
mood, in some cases horses can become
dangerous. Boredom habits not only
reflect a horses poor mental health but
can cause a horse to loose body condition
because they spend so much time
performing the behaviours.
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The Stabled Horse (cont.)
The size of a stable should be big enough for a horse to be able to move around and lie
down comfortably. Stables which are too small can lead to injuries and stables which are too
big become difficult to clean and maintain.
Below are some approximate sizes for different heights of horses.
Ponies up to 14.2hh = 3m X 3m
Horses 14.2hh to 16.0hh = 3.6m X 3.6m
Horses over 16.2hh = 4.2m X 4.2m
Foaling stalls/stables = 4.8m X 4.8m
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Providing Water
Though horses need a great deal of water, they spend very little time drinking, they will
usually consume water 2-8 times a day with each time lasting 1-8 minutes. How you provide
and supply water to your horse will depend upon your situation.
Here we have the advantages and disadvantages of some common watering systems.
Bath tubs & containers:Bath tubs hold large quantities of water and are good if
numerous horses will be accessing the one water source. they
are also easy to empty to clean. If using a tub they should be
rust free. The disadvantage of bathtubs is that they may be
heavy to move and some have sharp edges and corners
which have the potential to cause injury.
Containers can come in all shapes and sizes and are
generally easy to relocate. Rubber ones are softer and may
last longer than plastic however they may be easier to knock
over. Plastic are also easy to relocate but tend to deteriorate
in the sun.
Automatic machines:Automatic waterers save time in that they automatically refill
when the water reaches a certain low level. They are simple to
clean as most have an outlet to release stored water.
However if the waterer breaks of doesn’t function properly the
horse could be without water and it will cost time and
sometimes money to repair.
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Providing Water (cont.)
Natural supply:This includes creeks, dams, rivers any sort of water supply
which occurs naturally in the environment.
In some cases natural water supplies may continually provide
water all year round, which means less time and energy put
into providing water.
But natural water supplies can become contaminated, not only
by chemicals but from algae growth. Algae is poisonous to
horses. Horses can also become stuck if the ground around
the natural supply becomes boggy.
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Horse Travel
With the right preparation and
consideration floating and travelling a
horse can be stress free. When pulling a
float/trailer you need to remember you are
towing a lot of weight behind the vehicle.
This weight will affect how you control and
manoeuvre the vehicle. Imagine you are
standing on a bus and trying to keep your
balance and stand on your feet without
using your hands to hold on; this is what it
is like for your horse. Horses which have
poor or bad experiences travelling are less
likely to want to do it again.
When towing a horse you will need to
make the following adjustments to your
driving:-
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brake slowly
accelerate slowly
increase the distance between you
and vehicles in front of you. Your
vehicle has more weight behind it
so it will take you longer to slow
down, even if you are going at a
steady pace
increase the distance you need to
start slowing down and come to a
stop
take corners slowly
don’t assume that other drivers will
understand you have an incredible
amount of weight behind you or
that you are towing a live animal.
Other drivers can assume that
because you are going slow you
can stop quickly, which isn’t the
case, be alert to other vehicles
around you
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In the event that you need to change a
tyre on the float/trailer, leave the horse or
horses loaded. It is far safer to have them
remain inside than to unload the horse
and lose control because it becomes
frightened by traffic or unload the horse
and then have it decide it doesn’t want to
get back on. Your car jack should be able
to take the weight of the horses and the
float, if you are unsure check the
manufacturer’s guidelines. And use a
block (i.e. a large chuck of wood) under
the float, next to the jack so that if the float
comes off the jack its not going to end up
on the ground.
As always prevention is better than cure
so regularly check your tyres for wear, tear
and damage.
Always have your horse tied up during
travel. Horse’s that remain untied have the
opportunity to turn around in the float,
which is not just dangerous for you and
your horse but other road users around
you. Horse’s that can turn around will
effect how the float travels behind the
vehicle and they can become injured and
stuck, which usually leads a panicking
horse.
Horses which are being transported
together need to be secured on a rope
that’s short enough to prevent them from
biting each other but no so short they
cannot lower their heads to clear their
airways.
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Loading Procedure
1) Ensure the vehicle and trailer/float is parked in a safe and appropriate place and
have the trailer/float open, ready for the horse to enter.
2) You may need to make the space where the horse is to be loaded inviting, you can
do this by shifting the dividing bar across to make the space bigger, then move it
back once the horse has walked on.
3) Have the horse prepared with the appropriate travelling equipment.
4) If there is only one horse being transported you should load it on the side of the
trailer behind the driver. If there are 2 being transported then the heavier horse goes
on the drivers side. This will mean the trailer will travel better as the weight is behind
the driver, in the centre of the road.
5) Under the supervision of a competent horse person, load the horse into the trailer. If
only 1 horse is travelling load on the side behind the driver. This will help to keep the
trailer/float travelling straight as roads are angled slightly higher in the middle. If
travelling with 2 horses, load the heavier horse behind the driver. This isn’t an issue
with angle loads or trucks.
6) Once the ramp is lifted up and the trailer/float is closed, then tie the horse up. Never
tie the horse up before the trailer is closed because (a) the horse is confined it will
get a fright and panic (b) the horse can pull back & fall out of the vehicle with the
possibility of doing severe injury to legs and (c) from a bad experience the horse is
likely to loose confidence and become difficult to load in the future.
7) Tie the horse up short enough that it cannot turn around or get its head around the
centre divider but can still lower its head a little.
8) Do a final check of the trailer/float and vehicle before setting off.
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Unloading Procedure
1)
2)
3)
4)
Ensure the vehicle and trailer/float is parked in a safe and appropriate place.
Check the vehicle then untie the horse inside the trailer/float
Open the trailer/lower the ramp.
Under the supervision of a competent horse person unload the horse. In the case of
a 2 horse, straight loading float/trailer, keep the horse straight and try to navigate the
horse so that it backs out towards the centre of the ramp, make sure all 4 hooves are
on the ground before turning the horse around. This will minimise the risk of injury
from a leg sliding off the ramp. If unloading from a 3 horse, angle load float/trailer or
from a truck there may be enough room to turn the horse inside the float/trailer/truck
and lead it down the ramp.
5) Check the horse over for injury
6) Clean and prepare the float/trailer for the next outing.
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Feeding for the Season
During weather and seasonal changes
you can make some minor feeding
adjustments to help a horse perform better
and avoid heat stress and fatigue.
Over-weight and nervous horses are
mostly likely to suffer to dehydration
during hot weather. Older horses may also
be affected by warmer weather. In colder
weather older and underweight horses will
be the most affected. They will require
more feed to maintain body condition, as
they will be using more energy to keep
themselves warm.
Feeding during hotter weather:Some feeds produce higher amounts of
heat during fermentation and hindgut
processes, this heat is called ‘waste heat’.
In a horse that is in work, waste heat
increases the load which needs to be lost
during warm weather and after exercise.
This means that large amounts of waste
heat being produced will make the horse
hotter. Increased heat loads can cause
higher heart and respiration rates because
the body temperature will be higher due to
excess amounts of waste heat. This
results in higher amounts of sweat which
can lead to dehydration.
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Roughage (hay) and fibrous feeds such as
oats and wheat bran produce more waste
heat than feeds that are dense in
carbohydrates such as corn and barley.
However roughage is still important to the
digestive health of a horse and despite it
producing high amounts of waste heat it
also traps water in the bowel which
provides a fluid reservoir for horses in
exercise.
Guidelines for feeding in hot weather:-
-
-
-
put feeders and feed bins in a
shady spot
ensure cool, clean water is always
available. Placing water in the
shade can assist in keeping it cool
however may result in leaf litter in
the water supply
maintain a short length in the
horse’s coat (clipping is covered in
further chapters of this workbook)
dampening feeds will help to
improve the horse’s fluid intake
during travel or hard work, use
electrolyte and fluid replacement
liquids
hose the horse promptly after work
and exercise
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Feeding for the Season (cont.)
Feeding during colder weather:Horses which are kept outside during
colder weather will require a good supply
of roughage and shelter from wind and
rain and room to exercise to keep
themselves warm. To adapt to colder
months horses grow a longer coat, they
may group together and their appetite may
increase so that they take in more feed so
their bodies can provide more energy to
stay warm.
Rugging (this will be covered more
extensively further in this workbook) can
help to insulate against the cold, rain and
wind. Shelters can help to keep a horse
A typically fuzzy winter coat
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dry, a wet horse gets colder easier than a
dry horse.
Whilst feeds that produce a high amount
of heat are undesirable in hot weather,
they will help to maintain body heat in
colder weather. A horse which has is not
putting all it’s energy into keeping warm is
less likely to loose body condition.
Cereal chaff (wheaten & oaten) and
lucerne hay will help to provide extra
energy and internal warmth during
digestion. Fibrous feeds such as oats
provide addition energy and are also
suitable for this purpose.
The winter coat of an Icelandic pony. Note
how it is much longer than the horse in the
previous image.
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Rugs
When deciding to rug a horse you need to
consider the purpose for which you are
rugging it. Is it for warmth, protection from
flies, cooling down after exercise or maybe
for protection from wet weather? There
are many different designs out there to
suit every budget, climate and purpose.
Wild horses grow longer coats and shed
hair with the climate changes. The grease
and dirt that build up within that coat helps
to provide a waterproof barrier and long
manes and tails assist in keeping off flies.
Stabled and some domesticated horses
are clean daily, kept indoors and in some
cases are clipped which reduces the
benefit of the natural protection of the coat
and grease build up. Therefore depending
upon the types of horse, the weather and
climate and the exercise the horse
performs it may be necessary to provide
the horse with a rug.
community/industry but look at some of
the more common types and materials
they are made from and what they are
used for.
When measuring a rug for a horse the rug
size is determined by length. To determine
the length, measure from the centre of the
chest (where the buckles will do up) to the
point of the buttocks. Some countries may
obtain this measurement from the top of
the withers to the top of the tail. Rugs
sizes are described in either imperial
measurement or metric. A well fitted rug
should cover the horse’s belly (this is
known as depth). Neck rugs and hoods
can come in pony, cob, full, warmblood
and stallion sizes. A neck rug which is too
large will slide back, one which is too
small will restrict the horse from lowering
the head.
Here we’re not going to cover every type
of rug available out in the horse
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Rugs (cont.)
Stable rugs:These rugs are used for stabled horses and are not waterproof. They assist in keeping a
horse clean and warm. Because they often get dirty very quickly people usually have one for
the night and another for the day. They can be made of different materials to suit hot and
cold weather.
Cotton
Will maintain its position on the horse well, they are light
which makes them suitable for hotter weather and easy to
wash and a natural fibre. Good for keeping the flies and
insects off. They will also assist in improving the quality of
the horse’s coat.
Wool
These are good for providing warmth and can be used
under a waterproof rug which has no lining (see unlined
canvas). They can be difficult to wash but also may be
used as a rug at competitions. A wool rug will become quite
heavy if it gets wet.
Paddock rugs:Paddock rugs should be designed to be strong and durable. They should have strong
fittings and can be waterproof. A rugged paddocked horse should be checked at least once
a day to ensure the rug hasn’t slipped or started to chaff the horse.
Hessian
Hessian rugs can be made from empty chaff bags or
brought ready made. A natural fibre they are cheap,
light and cool. They can provide warmth under
waterproof rugs and are useful as coat polishing rugs
and prevent the colour of the coat from sun
bleaching and fading. Rugs made from chaff bags
tend to be softer than the brought variety which can
be a little stiff. The horse’s shoulders and wither
should be checked regularly for chaffing.
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Rugs (cont.)
Paddock rugs:-
New Zealand rug
These are made of canvas or flax and are lined with
wool. They are very warm and waterproof and they
come in different weights for different weather and
rain conditions. They can be quite heavy and cause
rubbing on the wither and shoulders. Extra padding
in these areas is usually provided with sheepskin,
foam or satin.
They can also come as a ‘self-righting rug’ which
means that should it twist it will correct itself. The
way it does this is a strap is passed between the
front legs and then splits and passes through a ring
on each outer side of the rug, the straps then pass
back on the inside of the hind legs, threaded through
each other and attached to the rings at the rear of
the rug.
Doona
Waterproof in light rain these rugs are made of
synthetic materials and are soft and easy to handle.
They are warm and tend to fit better if one size
smaller is used.
Ripstop
These are rugs which are available lined or unlined.
This means that they will either come with a felt
lining (on the underside of the rug to assist in
keeping the horse warm in colder weather) or they
have none.
The threads of this rug are woven into a cross
pattern to help prevent tears growing in size. Cotton
rugs can also be brought as a ripstop with the cross
woven pattern.
Unlined rugs can be used over summer rugs to keep
the horse dry in wet weather.
The under side of a lined ripstop canvas rug
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Rugs (cont.)
Other commonly used rugs:a.)
b.)
Ripstop (cont.)
Most commonly they are seen as canvas or synthetic
materials. Synthetic materials (such as polyester)
tend mould better to the horse’s shape and are not as
cumbersome when wet.
a.) synthetic ripstop
a.) canvas ripstop
Anti-sweat
Allowing natural evaporation of moisture on a sweaty
or wet horse a anti-sweat rug is made of string. They
can be used with a cotton rug over the top to help
hold them in place as this type of rug usually doesn’t
come with leg straps. When used in conjunction with
a lighter rug it will allow the horse to dry without
chilling. They can be used on their own in hot
weather and a roller or surcingle can be used to help
prevent it from slipping.
Show rugs
The function of this rug is to keep a horse clean, keep
the flies off and for presentation. They can be made
of cotton, satin, silk, linen or wool. They come in
many colour combinations.
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Rugs (cont.)
Other commonly used rugs:Skinny hoods
Usually made from lycra or more recently polar fleece
they are very stretchy. They may be used to keep the
horse and mane clean, to ‘train’ the mane to stay
down or to one side or to keep plaits neat and tidy for
competition. Care should be taken when using them
as if the hood twists it can cause the eye hole to put
pressure onto the eye, which can lead to serious
injuries and problems. If the hood is too small it can
also prevent the horse from lowering its head to
graze.
Polar fleece
a.)
b.)
These are handy rugs to put under waterproofs or
just to provide a horse with extra warm. They are soft
and light but not waterproof. Care should be taken
when selecting sizes as the can stretch slightly.
Satin shoulders/bibs
A horse wears this item under a rug to help prevent
and minimise rubbing and chaffing on the shoulders
and wither. They come in sizes from pony upwards
and are made of satin or silk. Some can be quilted to
provide extra padding in the area.
a.) satin
b. )quilted
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Rugs (cont.)
The heavier winter rugs which are waterproof and provide warmth will also assist in keeping
the horse’s coat from becoming fluffy. An older horse will require more care in the extremes
of temperatures, you should take this into consideration when deciding how to rug the aged
equine.
Below is a rough guide of rug sizing in feet and centimetres and what height of horse will
usually fit that size of rug.
This is only a guide. Some breeds will be lighter and may fit into smaller rugs while heavier
types many need to go up a size from their height. It is always good to check the
manufacturers sizing as some styles may vary slightly in how they fit.
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Rugging & Un-rugging
Horses are flight animals which means their first instinct when frightened is to run away. We
need to take this into consideration when rugging and un-rugging horses.
The procedure for taking off a rug is:


Undo the buckles starting from the front working your way to the back. Doing so will
mean that if the horse goes galloping off the rug will be flicked back off the horse
rather than sliding forward and getting caught up in the front legs.
Once the leg straps have been unbuckled, re-buckle them back to the rug to that
when you put the rug back on, they wont flick around and hit the horse.
Then fold the rug back, so its neat and organised for when you put it on again and
slide it off the back of the horse.
The procedure for putting a rug on is:

Place the rug over the horses’ back & unfold. Its better to have the rug sitting slightly
forward of where it needs to be then you can slide it back in the direction of the hair.
Start doing up the buckles from the back & work your way to the front. Doing so will
mean if your horse go galloping off the rug will be flicked back off the horse rather
than sliding forward and getting caught up in the front legs.
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Clipping
Clipping involves removing all or parts of a
horse’s coat. There are a couple of
different reasons for clipping:1) To improve the horse’s
appearance for competition or
show
2) To make it easier to keep the
horse clean and recognise health
problems. Sometimes a horse’s
legs might be clipped to prevent
moisture becoming trapped and
causing skin problems
3) To allow the horse to stay cooler
when working. A long thick winter
coat will restrict the evaporation of
sweat meaning that the horse
stays hotter
4) To allow the horse to dry quickly
after work which prevent chills and
time spent drying the horse
Some older horses with ‘Cushings
Disease’ (a hormone disorder, which
causes a long, shaggy coat which doesn’t
change with the seasons. For more info
see the recommended readings) may
require clipping coming into the warmer
months to help remove the winter coat.
Some preparation is necessary prior to
clipping:-
make sure the horse is clean.
Shampoo the horse thoroughly to
remove grease and dirt from the
coat. Clipping a dirty horse will give
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-
-
-
you a rough clip and will blunt the
clipper blades. The horse should
also be dry, clippers wont cut a wet
coat
check the clippers to make sure
they are clean, oiled and in good
working order
if the horse hasn’t been clipped
before it may be a good idea to
introduce them to the noise and
the feel before you actually do the
clip job.
If you are only going to clip part of
the horse’s body, use chalk (or
bright lipstick) mark where the clip
will go. This will help to keep it
even on each side of the horse.
Some points for consideration:-
-
-
try to keep the power lead away
from the horse. If the horse stands
on the cord it will probably cause
damage to the wires or become
entangled, both of which are
dangerous.
for first time horses have a helper
to hold the horse
allow plenty of time to clip,
especially if you are doing the
whole body
chose a place to clip which is away
from water, rain and draughts
dress appropriately- clipped hair
will get everywhere and it can
become itchy and irritating
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Clipping (cont.)
There are two types of machines for removing long hair 1.) clippers which are bigger, noisier
and capable of cutting thick and large quantities of hair, and 2.) trimmers which are smaller,
quieter and suitable for trimming excess hair off a horse’s head, legs and ears. Because
clippers are larger they are better suited to clipping the body and legs though it is possible to
do more delicate areas. Trimmers are smaller in length and blade width which means they
can get into difficult areas such as the ears to remove hair, and are easier to manoeuvre and
quieter.
Clippers
Trimmers
Types of clips:Full body
The hair has been removed from the whole body,
including legs and head. The horse in this image still has
the longer coat on the legs and head and you can see
how the colour of the shorter coat is different.
Trace clip
This clip is suitable for horses which live outdoors, the
hair is left on most of the upper body and legs, which will
provide protection from the cold but it is removed from the
underside of the neck, chest, belly and hindquarter. This
allows the horses sweat to be better evaporated during
hard work.
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Clipping (cont.)
Blanket clip
Good for horses in heavy work, hair is removed from the
head, neck and underside of the belly and hindquarter.
The hair which is left provides protection from the
elements.
Hunter clip
Hair is left only on the legs and the spot where the saddle
sits. This type of clip is for hard working horses who
spend long hours under the saddle. The hair left provides
some padding for the back and on the legs it provides
protection from plants and shrubs (exercise/work
outdoors)
Upon finishing clipping the horse will need to be shampooed again to remove clipped hair
and any oil from the clippers as both will cause irritation. A clipped horse will feel the cold
more than a horse which is not clipped therefore additional rugs will be necessary. Sweep up
loose hair and clean and store the clippers appropriately.
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Life Cycle of a Worm
Each type of worm will have a slightly different life cycle in regards to how long the process
takes and where they will end up in the horse’s body however the overall cycle is the same.
Adult worms already present in the horse lay eggs
which get passed out in the manure.
The contaminated manure is passed onto the
pasture with the worm eggs
The eggs then hatch into larvae on the pasture
Whilst grazing the horse picks up and ingests the
larvae which then migrates to wherever that
particular type of worm inhabits in the horse’s body
systems
The larvae mature into adult worms, which lay eggs
and the whole process starts again.
The life cycle of a worm can be subject to seasons (climate, weather). Some worm eggs will
only hatch under certain environmental circumstances (i.e. warm weather) or at a certain
time of year.
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Common Internal Parasites
The vast majority of horses have worms and there are a few different types, all of which will
affect different body systems. Below are common types of internal parasites you will be
worming against.
Strongles
There are large and small strongles and they are also referred
to as redworms and bloodworms. These worms burrow into the
walls of the blood vessels. Heavy burdens can cause death and
they are also a common cause of colic.
Blood clots form from where the larvae have buried into artery
walls, these blood clots then break away and can clog up
arteries which can lead to the intestines or hind legs.
During infestations, these parasites may become visible in
water troughs and in manure.
Pin worms
Found in the large intestine, here they can cause ulceration, the
eggs are released into the rectum and anus which causes
irritation to the horse. This can be apparent from the horse
rubbing its tail. The eggs are then transferred onto pasture or
water.
Severe infestations can cause anorexia and nervousness.
Chronic infections will lead to horses which are poor in
appearance.
Thread worms
Most likely found inhabiting the small intestine of foals up to 6
months of age. They are transmitted to the foal through the
mares milk. They are uncommon after that age.
Diarrhoea, dermatitis and weakness are signs of infestation and
in severe cases death.
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Common Internal Parasites (cont.)
a.
b.
Bots
There are bot eggs and bot flies. One leads to another. Bot flies
lay bot eggs on the hairs on the horse. The eggs are small and
yellowish in colour, the flies are large an sometimes look like bees.
The horse ingests the larvae when it rubs against the eggs with its
mouth. The larvae remain in the mouth for 1 month before
migrating to the stomach where they can cause haemorrhage,
intestinal blockage, ulcerations and perforation of the stomach.
Here they will stay for 12 months living off tissue and blood. Then
they are passed out in manure where they will pupate and emerge
as flies and the process starts over.
a.- eggs
b.- fly
Roundworms (ascarids)
Common in young horses they can cause coughs, rough hair, slow
growth and pot bellies. Of course in large numbers they can cause
death.
These worms are carried to the blood supply to the lungs where
they break through blood vessels to migrate into the trachea. Here
they are coughed up and swallowed again to end up in the small
intestine, where they mature. Strangely enough this is where the
process starts because to gain entry into the blood stream they
first burrow through the intestinal wall
.
Onchocerca
The microfilariae (early larval stage) of Onchocerca are found just
beneath the skin. They can invade the eye and cause blindness
and the adults are found in the neck and flexor tendons. Heavy
infestations can restrict movement.
They are spread through biting midges which transfer the
microfilariae by biting an infected horse then biting a non infected
horse.
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Common Internal Parasites (cont.)
Tapeworms
Tapeworms take up residence in the digestive tract. When the end
of the worm fills with eggs, it separates and is expelled from the
body in manure. They can cause colic, poor growth and lethargy
Most of the damage inflicted by worms is internal however there are some visible signs
which may indicate an infestation.
Signs of worms or the need for worming may include:-
-
itchy tail
poor coat condition
loss of weight
poor weight gain
presence of worms in manure or water troughs (redworms)
summer sores
diarrhoea
lack of energy
hair loss
colic
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Effective Parasite Control Measures
Within your management of your property
or paddock there is some effective
management practices you can do to help
minimise worm populations. Small
properties and paddocks are more likely to
have higher populations due to high
stocking rates in a small area (i.e. many
horses on a small piece of land). This
doesn’t mean the operator of the small
property is negligent or irresponsible in
their horse care, it is just that where there
is a higher population of horses there is
more likely to be a higher population of
worms.
1) Other than regular worming
schedules there are a few more
things you can do to help control
parasites.
2) Picking up and removing manure
regularly (twice a week).
Completely clearing a paddock of
manure will reduce the number of
eggs in the paddock therefore
reduce numbers of reinfestation.
4) Keep feed off the ground. Put feed
and hay into feeders.
5) Cross graze (to alternate grazing
of paddocks between species)
paddocks with sheep or cattle. By
cross grazing it will interrupt the life
cycle of equine parasites.
6) Spell (give the paddock a break
from grazing) paddocks regularly.
Mowing and harrowing pasture
whilst giving the paddock a ‘rest’
will break up manure piles and
expose eggs to the environmental
elements.
7) Remove bots eggs from the
horse’s coat. Knives are available
designed specifically for this
purpose.
Your veterinarian will be able to do faecal
egg counts which will help you to be able
to monitor the effectiveness of your
worming program.
3) Prevent overgrazing by reducing
stock numbers on pasture. More
horses mean more manure which
means higher contamination.
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De-Worming
There are many different worming
products on the market. Worming
compounds are available in paste or
powder/granules form.
Pastes come in a plastic syringe and are
inserted into the mouth over the back of
the tongue. This type of compound can be
brought from your local saddlery, produce
or stockfeed store and is quick and fairly
straight forward to deliver.
Powders or granules are mixed in with the
horse’s daily feed. It is a less common
method or delivering worming compounds.
Some horses may sift the product out of
the feed.
There is another method of delivering
wormer and that is by stomach tube by
your veterinarian. This method delivers the
compound straight to the stomach and is
used mostly for horses with heavy
infestations. It should only be performed
by a veterinarian.
You will need to rotate wormers regularly.
This means choosing and alternating
between wormers of different chemical
compounds to ensure that the parasites
don’t build up a resistance to one
particular compound because they are
always exposed to the same one, which
will make the worming product ineffective.
Some wormers will only treat certain
parasites and at certain times of the year
various parasite groups will pose a threat
more than at other times of the year.
health affects for the horse. Under dosing
can lead to a build up in resistance to the
product by the parasites, simular to the
resistance mentioned when worming
compounds/wormers aren’t rotated.
Under dosing resistance is built up
because the dosage of the chemical agent
is not strong enough to kill the parasites.
Therefore it is important to establish the
correct weight of the horse to be wormed
(or de-wormed). This can be done without
scales by using a weight tape.
Weight tapes usually have instructions on
how to use them imprinted on the tape but
to give you an overview you measure the
length of the horse, from the point of the
shoulder to the point of the buttock. The
second measurement is taken from
around the girth so the tape should lie just
behind the wither and behind the elbow.
Then calculate the two measurements by:[Girth (cm) × Girth (cm) × Length (cm)] /
11,900 = Weight(kg)
[Girth (in) × Girth (in) × Length (in)] / 330 =
Weight (lb)
It is important that the horse be standing
still, on level ground and fairly square (the
4 hooves placed so that they would
illustrate the 4 corners of a square or
rectangle) to get an accurate
measurement.
Over dosing with wormer to ‘be sure’ is not
necessarily a good idea. It have serious
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De-Worming (cont.)
There are some other factors which will
influence the type or brand of worming
product you use. Some wormers will be
unsuitable to use on foals, pregnant
and/or lactating mares and breeding
stallions. It is a good idea to check the
label on the product before purchasing or
you can consult your veterinarian.
As a general rule horses which are kept
on their own in a small paddock will
require worming (de-worming) every 6 – 8
weeks.
Check the labelling on the worming
product. The label will specify:-
How often you worm your horses may
depend a little upon your situation. A
horses kept on large acreage by itself may
require treatment less often than a horse
kept in a smaller paddock or with
numerous other horses. This is because
the horse kept in the smaller area or with
other horses will be exposed to worms in
larger numbers.
-
-
how long it will stay active in the
horse’s system before you need to
de-worm again
what horses it is safe to use on
(i.e.- whether it is suitable for
pregnant mares etc)
what worms and parasites it works
on
what chemical it contains (useful
knowledge for when you are
rotating wormers)
when to administer (i.e. before
feeding or after feeding)
If in doubt consult your veterinarian.
Weather will also play a part horses in
climates where it is hot and humid may
require worming every 6 weeks.
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Using a Paste Wormer
How to administer a paste wormer:1) Restrain the horse with a halter and lead rope, if necessary you can have an
assistant hold the horse
2) Measure the dosage required for that horse
3) If you have no assistant you will need to hold the lead rope whilst you stand to one
side of the horse’s head
4) Insert your thumb into the corner of the horse’s lips. Remember there are no teeth in
this area and by inserting a thumb or finger into this area will encourage the horse to
open its mouth
5) Make sure the mouth is free from feed and grass. The best way to avoid this is not to
worm immediately after feed times. If there is any food in the horse’s mouth it will
mean that when you administer the wormer it will get onto the feed and the horse will
spit it out resulting in the horse being under-dosed. Usually the horse will spit out any
feed when you use your finger to in the corner of the lips to open the mouth. Do not
attempt to remove feed from the mouth with your hand or fingers!
6) Insert the syringe into the corner of the mouth and aim it upwards towards the back
of the tongue
7) Depress the syringe
8) Remove the syringe and raise the horse’s head. This is to help prevent the horse
from spitting it out and encourage the horse to swallow
9) Finally release the horse
10) Dispose of the syringe as described by the labelling on the product
Some horses may be more difficult than others, if so handling the horse in a smaller yard
can be effective in helping to control them.
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Types of Materials
Saddlery was at one time mainly made from leather but some new materials are being used
which can make gear easier to clean and take less time to maintain.
Leather saddles and bridles tend to have a more
traditional look.
Advantages:When cared for properly they will last a long time.
Initially, new leather may be stiff and may require
oiling but with use it usually softens fairly quickly.
Disadvantages:All saddlery will require care, cleaning and
maintenance but of the materials we will look at in this
topic, leather gear will probably require the most.
leather goods will require regular soaping and
oiling/conditioning to keep the leather supple and
strong. Dry leather will wear quicker and become
vulnerable to tears, cracks and rubbing.
Synthetic saddles and bridles are light-weight and
water-proof.
Some may have suede linings on the seat, knee rolls
and saddle flaps.
Advantages:Lower maintenance in cleaning. These types of
saddles can be wiped cleaned with water and a damp
sponge/cloth. They also tend to be cheaper to buy
than leather saddles.
Disadvantages:Synthetic saddles are still prone to cracking and wear,
particularly on the girth points. Cracks in the material
may cause discomfort to rider or horse.
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Types of Saddles
The type of discipline you ride and even to some extent the level you ride at will determine
the type of saddle you ride in.
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All/General purpose
Shaped and designed for
the rider to be able to
maintain position and seat
during both basic
dressage and flatwork,
jumping and across
undulating country
Dressage
Designed with a deeper
seat for better contact the
horses’ back & a longer
saddle flap for a longer leg
position. Longer girth
points so the girth buckles
don’t interfere with leg aid
application
Jumping
Forward cut saddle flap to
accommodate a shorter,
forward leg position.
Shallow seat to allow for
ease of getting up into
jumping position.
Stock
The ‘ears’ at the pommel
of the saddle help keep
the rider secure.
Commonly used when
mustering cattle. Girth can
be adjusted using either
buckles or a lace
Western
Designed for long periods
in the saddle. Suited for
cattle work. Horn is
located on the pommel
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Types of Saddles (cont.)
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Racing
Small and light weight.
Allows horse freedom of
movement. And minimal
interference from rider.
Side saddle
For side-saddle riders. Not
as common today.
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Parts of a Saddle
This is a synthetic all/general-purpose saddle.
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Taking Apart a Saddle
Saddles are probably easier to dismantle
than bridles. Below are step by step
instructions to pulling apart an English
style saddle (jumping, dressage,
all/general purpose).
1) It will be easier to take apart the
saddle if it is sitting upon a rail or
even the top of a chair so that it is
positioned as it would be on a
horse.
2) Start by pulling the buckle on the
stirrup leather down. to do this,
grasp the end of the leather plus
the top strap and pull down. Once
the buckle is in view, undo it. The
stirrup irons will slide off the
leather.
3) With the buckle undone you will be
able to pull on the back part of the
stirrup leather which will pull the
end from the stirrup bar and the
stirrup leather will come off the
saddle. (Alternatively you may be
able to pull the stirrup leather off
the end of the stirrup bar –located
under the skirt- however this may
be difficult depending upon how
the stirrup bar is positioned.)
4) To remove the girth, simply lift the
saddle flap and undo the buckles
on the girth points. If you have a
dressage saddle you probably
won’t need to lift the saddle flap to
get to the girth buckles.
Putting the saddle together:-
have a dressage saddle you
probably won’t need to lift the
saddle flap to get to the girth
buckles. If your girth has 2 buckles
but there are 3 girth points, use the
1st and 3rd girth point to buckle the
girth to.
2) Before putting the stirrups back on
it’s a good idea to measure them
against each other to see which is
longer. Because you always mount
the horse from the same side one
stirrup leather will stretch more
than the other. It is a good idea to
check them and put the shorter
stirrup leather on the mounting
side (near side) of the saddle. This
will help to keep them even.
3) Get the end of the stirrup leather,
lift the skirt of the saddle and push
the end of the leather under the
stirrup bar. If the stirrup bar is tight
you may need to wiggle the leather
a little. Sometimes it can be easier
to push the leather end through on
an angle. Make sure that you have
the leather around the right way, if
it is upside down the buckle will
face into the saddle rather than
outwards to the underside of the
skirt.
4) Once the end of the leather pokes
out the top of the stirrup bar pull it
up and downwards. Then buckle
up the stirrup and pull the back
strap of the stirrup leather to slide
the buckle back up under the skirt.
1) The girth re-buckles to the girth
points under the saddle flap. If you
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Types of Bridles
We use bridles to communicate with our horses using our hands. Once mounted, you will
use tension on the reins, which connect to the bit in the horses’ mouth, to guide and control
the horse.
Cavesson Bridle
A fairly simple bridle consisting of
one nose band and bit.
Hanoverian Bridle
The same in structure to the
Cavesson bridle but has two nose
bands. The extra nose band helps
to keep the bit secure in the
horses’ mouth
Stockmans/Barcoo/Western These have no nose bands and in
Bridle
the case of some of the Western
style bridles, have no throat latch
either and a brow band that loops
around one ear, not both.
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Parts of a Bridle
This is a leather cavesson bridle.
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Taking Apart a Bridle
Depending on the type of bridle you use
they can be quite confusing to take apart
and put back together again. Below are
instructions for taking apart a cavesson
bridle. Buckles are indicated with a
number on an image on the next page.
1) It can help to hang the bridle off a
hook or even a door knob so that
the bridle is positioned like it would
be on the horses’ head. Remove
the reins (1). There will be either a
buckle or a metal hook which holds
the reins in place. To undo the
hook type rein you will need to
push the end of the rein (from the
bit) over the hook.
2) Remove the bit. Again on the end
of the cheek straps which hold the
bit will either be a buckle or a hook
(2).
3) Remove the noseband. Undo the
buckle (3) and pull the long strap of
the noseband out from the
browband.
4) Unbuckle the cheek straps (4) from
the headpiece.
5) Now you should be able to pull the
headpiece out from the browband.
You will only be able to pull it out
one way as the buckle on the
throatlatch will prevent it from
being removed the other way.
Putting the bridle together:1) Start with the browband and the
headpiece. Thread the headpiece
through the browband. Make sure
that the throatlatch (5) (the longest
piece on the headpiece, it will have
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2)
3)
4)
5)
a buckle on the end of it) will be on
the correct side, that is, when it is
buckled up it should be on the near
side of the horse (the left side of
the horse if you face the same
direction as it).
Next attach the cheek straps(4).
They should sit evenly with each
other on the headpiece.
Thread the end of the noseband up
and through the browband. Again
this long strap that passes through
the browband and over the horses’
head should re-buckle (3) on the
near-side of the horse.
Attach cheek straps to the bit (2).
Make sure the bit is the correct
way around that is, the curve of
the bit should curve outwards over
the horses’ tongue. If you have the
hooks rather than buckles you will
need to side the hole in the leather
over the hook, push the hook into
the hole then pull back on the strap
to ensure it is in place.
Then re-attach the reins (1). Make
sure you reattach them to the
correct side of the bit.
Number 6 on the image is the flash or
dropped noseband. This can be removed
and replaced at anytime. It should be
positioned so that the end of the strap
hangs down and lies flat when it is
fastened.
Number 7 on the image is the buckle
which secures the nose band around the
horses’ nose. Whether it is buckled or
unbuckle will not interfere with how the
bridle is put together or taken apart.
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Taking Apart a Bridle (cont.)
Hook type rein fastening.
Buckle type rein fastening
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Care of Saddlery
There are many different products available to assist in the cleaning and conditioning of
leather equipment
Glycerine Saddle soap
Saddle soap
Is made up of high glycerine content to
soften, nourish and clean leather. The usual
compounds in this soap are glycerine,
waxes, cleaning agents and fragrances. It is
available as a solid and a liquid
Made from natural waxes, this type is ideal
for cleaning and produces soft and supple
leather and is free from alkaline which can
have an negative effect on some leather
Leather conditioners or oils can come in creams and liquids and many are available with
different oils, waxes and other penetrating agents which will help to soften, preserve and
waterproof leather.
Leather conditioner
This brand contains natural oils such as
beeswax, lanolin and emu oil
Neatsfoot oil
Is oil which is produced and purified from the
shin bones of cattle. It is useful for
conditioning, preserving and softening
leather but may cause darkening on newer
leather
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Care of Saddlery (cont.)
Leather dressing
Method of cleaning leather:You will need
-
saddle soap (glycerine or other)
sponge/soft cloth
a bucket with warm water
leather conditioner, dressing or oil
old toothbrush
1. Strip the saddle or bridle of its
individual pieces. Try to remember
where the buckles fitted (see the
video presentation for detailed disassembly)
2. Any metalwork can be put into the
bucket of water to soak. This
includes the bit which should be
rinsed clean after every use to
prevent the build up of grass and
saliva which may inhibit the
workings of the bit.
3. Using a damp cloth, wipe over the
entire saddle/bridle. Remove as
much dirt and grime as you can
with the damp cloth
4. Rinse your cloth or sponge and rub
it on your saddle soap (the
cloth/sponge only needs to be
damp) then work over the
saddle/bridle in circular motions,
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These are useful to improve flexibility and
suppleness of leather and also to protect it
from the elements. Contain waxes and oils.
including buckle guards and
stirrup leathers
5. A toothbrush can be used to clean
stitching or scrollwork on the
leather
6. Allow to dry, if necessary wipe off
any excess saddle soap and clean
the treads and irons on the saddle
7. Once it has dried you can apply oil,
conditioner or dressing
8. If you’re going to oil your saddle,
oil the underside of the flaps, oiling
the seat will stain your clothes.
Dressings and conditioners can be
applied all over.
9. Then leave the leather in the sun
to soak up the product and if
necessary apply another coat.
10. Once finished re-assemble and
store in a dry place
Synthetic saddles won’t require oiling,
conditioning or dressing. A damp cloth or
brush can be used to remove dirt, dust
and grime.
You should check with the label of the
cleaning or conditioning product as to
whether it can be used on items with
suede.
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Care of Saddlery (cont.)
Girths and Saddlecloths:Girths, saddlecloths and girth covers or
sleeves will need to be regularly cleaned
and washed to prevent rubbing and
chaffing on the horse.
Leather girths will need to be cleaned in
the same way as saddles and bridles.
Once they become hard and dry they
crack and cause discomfort to the horse.
String girths should be washed in soap
and water, then dry thoroughly before use.
Maintenance checks:Regular maintenance checks should be
done on gear to make sure it is in good,
safe working order. Any repairs should be
seen to promptly and the gear not used
until repaired. On saddles, panel stuffing,
stitching, buckles and lining should be
check for breaks, wear and damage.
Remember to report any damages to the
appropriate personnel.
Check the stitching on all parts of the
bridle.
Webbing or pvc girths can be brushed or
washed as required.
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Saddlecloths tend to wear thin and fray,
make sure they’re not causing horse
discomfort.
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Bits
A ‘bit’ is the metal part of the bridle which
goes into the horses’ mouth. There are
many different bits available but your
choice will depend upon your horse, your
horses’ level of education, your ability and
knowledge as a rider and the discipline or
activity you use your horse for. Different
horse sports and competitions will have
rules and regulations on the types of bits
allowed in competition.
A bit which is used incorrectly or fitted
badly will hurt the horses’ mouth.
First we will look at some common types
of snaffle bits. A snaffle bit is one which
has rings on wither side of the mouthpiece
and acts on direct pressure, unlike bits
with a shank which act as a lever. It is
considered to be a mild bit however when
combined with a mouthpiece which has a
twisted metal design or is very thin it can
be quite harsh on the horses’ mouth.
Eggbutt snaffle:This bit has a fixed ring which means the rings that
attach to the mouthpiece do not rotate so there is
no mobility. It has a single-joint in the mouthpiece
so it will apply pressure to the bars, lips and
tongue.
Loose-Ring snaffle:Like the eggbutt it has a single-joint but it is a
loose ring which means the rings will rotate. This
provides more mobility which some horses may
prefer but there is a chance the rotation of the
rings may pinch the lips.
French snaffle:Double jointed with a bone shaped link in the
middle makes this bit milder than the eggbutt
snaffle. The double-joint and link reduces the
nutcracker action that the eggbutt bit has. It is also
fixed ring.
‘D’ Ring snaffle:So named due to the ‘D’ shape of the rings.
Single-jointed, fixed ring. The shape of the rings
keeps the bit fixed.
Straight bar/Mullen mouth snaffle:This bit puts even pressure on the lips and bars
and is very mild. There is no joint.
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Bits (cont.)
The thickness of the mouthpiece of a bit will also contribute to the severity or harshness of
the action on the horses’ mouth.
Thin mouthpieces localise pressure on the bars of
the mouth, making a rein aid sharper.
However thin bits also take up less room in the
mouth which may suit some horses with smaller
mouths.
Thick mouthpieces tend to be milder.
Listed below are the carious materials bits can be made from.
Rubber:Bits with rubber mouthpieces tend to be softer on
the horses’ mouth.
Copper:The flavour of the copper will help to encourage
the horse to salivate. Salivation is important as a
moist mouth will stay softer to the bit.
Plastic:Are soft and flexible in the horses’ mouth. They
are also available flavoured (i.e. apple flavoured)
to encourage acceptance of the bit in young
horses starting out.
Stainless steel:Does not rust and last a long time. It is better to
use than nickel plated bits.
Nickel-plated:These look the same to stainless steel and are
cheaper however the silver coating chips off which
isn’t good for the horse.
Sweet iron:Is a dark coloured metal which will rust. The rust
gives the metal flavour which encourages
salivation.
Bits (cont.)
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Bits come in a range of sizes below is a table some of names of sizes and the actual size
they measure you may come across.
*Note:- sizes may vary slightly between countries and brands.
Horse size
Clydesdale
Draught Horse
Warmblood
Full Size (or "Horse")
Cob
Arab
Pony
Shetland
Weanling
Mini Pony
Measurement in inches
7 in
6.5 in
5.75 in
5.50 in
5 in
4.75 in
4.5 in
4 in
3.5 in
3 in
Measurement in
centimetres
18.0 cm
16.5 cm
14.5 cm
13.5 cm
12.5 cm
12 cm
11.5 cm
10.5 cm
9 cm
7.5 cm
Fitting a bit:A correctly fitting bit should be wide enough to allow a finger to
fit between the lips and the ring of the bit. A small wrinkle
should be seen in the corners of the mouth
This image show a bit which is too wide. Bits which are too wide
tend to pull through the horses’ mouth.
When bits are too narrow for the mouth they will tend to pinch
the lips.
This bit is fitted too high in the mouth. This will cause the bit to
interfere with the teeth. Bits can also be fitted too low. A good
indication of a bit which is fitted too low is excessive sagging of
the cheek piece when a rein is used.
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Fitting a Bridle
Throat latch: Once done up you should fit
approximately 4 fingers between the throat
and the strap.
Nose band: Depending on the horse and
the style of noseband used you should fit
approx. 2 fingers between the nose and
the strap (cavesson). It should rest across
the horses’ nose at approximately 2
fingers down from the cheek bone, but
keep in mind that if it is too low it will press
onto the soft nasal cavity and interfere
with breathing and too high will cause
rubbing on the cheek bones. The
noseband should be adjusted tight enough
to prevent the horse from opening its
mouth widely.
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Brow bands: Whilst brow bands cannot be
adjusted by a buckle, if it is the correct
size for the horse you should fit 2 fingers
between the brow and the strap. It should
be large enough to allow the headpiece to
fit in the correct position and not pulling it
forward into the back or sides of the ears.
Cheek pieces:- Should be of equal length.
The ends of straps should be tucked away
into keepers.
Bridles can come in four different sizes
pony (small), cob (medium), full (large)
and warmblood (extra large). Some larger
horses like the Thoroughbred breed which
has a refined head may fit into cob sizes.
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Saddlecloths
The type of saddle you use will influence the type of saddlecloth used. Some are shaped to
the saddle whilst others may be thicker to provide the horse with comfort.
Saddle pads
These are more suited to western or stock saddles, they
are quite large and thick which makes them good on the
horses’ back. Due to their size they can be difficult to
wash.
Saddle blankets
Also suited to western and stock saddles these are large
and usually doubled over when in used. They are easy to
clean and when woven out of natural fibre good for the
horses’ back.
Saddle cloths
These can come in a dressage cut and an all purpose cut
to accommodate the shape and length of the saddle flap.
They can come in quilted designs, are often padded with
foam and usually cheap to buy.
They usually come with attachments for the girth to pass
under and a strap at the front to attach to a girth point to
keep the cloth in place.
Numnahs
A numnah is shaped to that of the saddle. They can be
made of sheepskin and cotton. When using them they
should fit the same shape of the saddle with the fleece
side against the horse. They usually come with
attachments for the girth to pass under and a strap at the
front to attach to a girth point to keep the cloth in place.
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Boots
Boots (and bandages) help to protect and
support the horses’ leg from injury.
Different boots will be suited for different
disciplines. When fitting boots the leg
should be clean, the boot needs to be firm
enough so that it wont slip around but not
so tight that it will do damage to tendons
Bell boots
etc. As a guide you should be able to fit a
finger between the boot and leg. If
applying boots you should put all the boots
on. The reason for this is that if someone
else helps you they will adjust the boots to
a different tension.
Open front jump boots
Brushing boots
Knee boots
Fetlock boots
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These can be made from
either rubber or neoprene
and protect the coronet
and heel from the other
hooves. They either attach
with Velcro or pull on over
the hoof.
Made with a hard plastic
or leather exterior these
boots protect the tendons
on the front legs from the
hooves of the hind legs
when jumping.
Usually made from
neoprene these protect
the inside of the leg if
knocked or brushed by the
opposite leg
Protect the knee from
jumps and falls. These
boots can have a
neoprene or hard plastic
exterior.
Simular structure to
brushing boots but only
protect the fetlock
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Boots (cont.)
Hock boots
Simular structure to
brushing boots but only
protect the hock. Can be
used during travel.
Tendon boots
Made from neoprene
these wrap around the
cannon and fetlock to
support the tendons.
Sequence for putting on a brushing boot:1) Make sure the leg is clean. A dirty
leg or boots will cause rubbing.
2) Slide the boot down the leg in the
direction of the hair. This will avoid
irritation to the horse from brushing
hair in the wrong direction.
3) Check to ensure it is positioned
correctly. Brushing boots often
have a tear shaped padding which
goes to the inside of the leg, the
larger, rounder end should sit over
and protect the inside of the
fetlock.
4) Adjust the middle strap. The
middle is secured first to hold it in
place. By adjusting the middle
strap first you will minimise the
amount of twisting of the boot as
opposed to securing the top or
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bottom strap first which would
leave the opposite end loose.
5) Next fasten the bottom strap.
6) And finally the top strap.
Once secured you should be able to slide
a finger between the boot and the horses’
leg. if it is too loose the boot will twist or
slide down the horses’ leg which may
cause the horse to panic. If the boot is too
tight it can do serious damage to the
tendons and structures in the leg.
It is also important that the same person
puts on all the boots. This is because
different people will adjust boots to
different tensions. boots which are
adjusted to different tensions are also bad
for the horses’ legs.
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Other Equipment
At times you will need additional
equipment other than a saddle and bridle.
This extra equipment can be used to
improve how other equipment, such as,
saddles and bridles function or perform.
Equipment which is in good working order
is should be fairly clean and in good repair
for example no broken buckles, torn or
Standing Martingale
Running Martingale
Irish Martingale
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broken stitching, or dangerously worn
leather.
Martingales
Restrict the upwards movement of the
horses head. The horse will still be able to
move its head up and down but won’t be
able to lift it so high that it can avoid the
rein action on the bit.
One end attaches to the girth and the other to the
noseband, a strap around the horses neck helps keep it
close to the horse so if the horse brings its head down it
cant stand on it. When fitted correctly you should fit one
hand between the neck strap and the strap to the nose
band should reach the horses’ gullet before being
attached.
Like the standing martingale one end attaches to the girth
between the horses front legs, the other end splits into 2
pieces of leather with a ring on each end. The reins pass
thru these rings, so that when the horse lifts its head up
too high, the rings put downward pressure on the reins.
This also has an attachment around the neck which you
should be able to fit one hand between and the rings
should reach halfway up the horses’ neck.
There are 2 variations of this martingale. The first is a
strap of leather with rings at either end. Fitted, it should be
the width of the horses’ nose.
The second is in the shape of a ‘Y’. Both act in the same
fashion, when the head comes up the piece comes
against the neck, putting downwards pressure on the
reins.
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Other Equipment (cont.)
Breastplates
This item of gear attaches to the saddle
around the shoulders and neck of the
horse and helps prevent the saddle sliding
backwards. Often used when riding on
undulating country, jumping or on
Stockmans/Hunting breastplate
Racing breastplate
Jumping breastplate
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racehorses. They can be made out of
leather, elastic or pvc. When adjusting
breastplates to a horse you should be able
to fit approx. one hand between the chest
and strap and between the neck/wither
strap.
Attaches to ‘D’ rings on either side of the
saddle, comes around the neck and
between the front legs attaching to the
girth.
Attaches to the girth on either side of the
saddle, just below the saddle flap and fits
around the chest. A strap over the
neck/wither prevents the breastplate from
sliding down towards the legs.
A strap that attaches to either side of the
pommel of the saddle under the neck.
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Other Equipment (cont.)
Crupper
This equipment helps prevent the saddle sliding too far forward and are more commonly
seen on ponies. Cruppers involve a strap that attaches to the back of the saddle which then
loops around the dock (top of the tail).
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Horse Categories
Through-out this workbook horses may be referred to as being a ‘hot-blood’ or ‘cold-blood’.
Horse breeds can be divided (loosely) into 3 categories being cold bloods, hot bloods and
warm bloods.
Cold bloods are those breeds which tend to be of heavier body type and even temperament
suitable for slow or heavy work such as the Clydesdale.
An example of a ‘cold blood’ the Clydesdale.
Heavier bone and body structure with a level, even
temperament.
Hot bloods include breeds like the Arabian and the Thoroughbred which can be spirited in
temperament, lighter in bone and body structure and bred for endurance and speed work.
An example of a ‘hot blood’ the Thoroughbred.
Refined features, light body structure and spirited
temperament.
Warm bloods are a combination of the hot and cold bloods. They are bred to be suitable for
specific riding purposes. They often have the size and even temperament of the cold bloods
but the influence of hot bloods brings refined features and athleticism.
An example of a ‘warm blood’ this is a Dutch warmblood stallion. You can see the horse has
maintained the height and strong frame and bone
structure of the cold blood yet is refined from the
influence of the hot blood breeding.
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Horse Types
A horse type isn’t a breed but a term used
to describe horses that have simular
characteristics.
Cob:This type is of small, compact build with
short legs, large joints and a steady
disposition. This term is also used in some
countries to describe a horse used for
everyday riding. Standing from 14.2 hands
and higher, cobs types can be seen in a
range of disciplines and horse events. Cob
types are capable of carrying a
considerable amount of weight.
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Hunter:These may also be referred to as a show
hunter, field hunter and working hunter.
Show hunters’ are a show horse exhibited
in competition and competes on the flat
(i.e. on a flat surface exhibiting paces,
transitions, figures). A working hunter is
simular to a show hunter except that they
may be required to jump fences. A field
hunter is a type of horse used for foxhunting. Hunters have low, sweeping
strides, excellent jumping form, a relaxed
and calm temperament and good manners.
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Horse Types (cont.)
Hack:Sometimes also called show hacks, these
horses are elegant in appearance, good
conformation, educated and obedient.
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Common Breeds
Thoroughbred:The thoroughbred is best known as a race
horse. Known for their speed and agility
they can be quite spirited and are
considered a ‘hot-blooded’ horse. The
breed was first developed in England
during the 17th and 18th centuries from
three arabian stallions.
Though the thoroughbred is used mainly
for racing they are found in many different
disciplines including dressage, polo, showjumping, combined training and endurance.
In the southern hemisphere thoroughbreds
turn a year older on the 1st of August and
in the northern hemisphere on the first of
January. These dates have been set to
standardise races and competitions which
carry age groups.
Characteristics:Standing from 15.2 hands thoroughbreds
are most often a solid colour like brown,
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black, bay, chestnut and grey. Other
colours such as palomino are rare in the
breed and patterned colours are not
recognised by breed registries. They have
long legs and necks with refined heads
and high withers, deep chests, short backs
with a good depth to the hind-quarters and
an overall lean appearance.
However this breed tends to be prone to
hoof injuries and defects due to
developing a breed which is light and agile,
they have small hooves in comparison to
large body mass. Another health issue is
bleeding into the lungs. This is during high
exertion, like galloping and whilst horses
which ‘bleed’ (usually out of one or both
nostrils- simular to a blood nose in
humans) repeatedly during racing are
banned they are still extremely suitable
mounts for other sports and disciplines.
Legs injuries are common because
racehorses start their training at a very
young age which puts strain on structures
which are still developing and maturing.
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Common Breeds (cont.)
Stock Horse (Australian Stock Horse):-
Characteristics:-
This is a hardy breed used in various
disciplines and developed for Australian
conditions.
They are intelligent, agile and surefooted.
All colours are accepted and range from
14 – 16.2 hands in height. The head of
this breed has a large eye with broad
forehead. They should be wellproportioned with a long neck, well defined
withers, deep chest, well sprung ribs,
broad back, strong hind-quarters and hard,
well conformed hooves. The overall
appearance of this breed should be well
muscled.
The Stock horse was developed from
breeds like the Thoroughbred, Arabian,
Timor pony and Welsh mountain pony in
the 17th-18th century when Australia saw
the arrival of the first fleet at Botany Bay.
Formal recognition of the Australian Stock
Horse as a breed began in 1971. Horses
were inspected and assessed for breeding,
conformation and athletic ability.
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The Australian stock displays a good,
quiet temperament.
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Common Breeds (cont.)
Arabian:-
Characteristics:-
Originating in the Middle East it is one of
the most recognisable breeds with
evidence that the breed dates back 4,500
years. The breed has been used to
improve other breeds with endurance,
speed and refinement.
Arabs have distinct features, their heads
have a dished profile with a broad
forehead, large eyes and nostrils and
small muzzles. The neck is generally
arched, laid back shoulder, short back,
long flat croup and high set tail. They
possess short cannon bones and strong
hoof walls. Standing around 14.1 – 15.1
hands (it is not uncommon for them to be
taller) the arab is considered to be a ‘hotblooded’ horse due to their intelligence
and sensitivity.
It is a horse which is generally quick to
learn and good natured and finds uses in
many disciplines and is particularly suited
to endurance. Being developed in a desert
environment the Arabian is versatile and
prized war mares were often brought into
tents for protection from weather,
predators and from theft.
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Colours include brown, bay, chestnut, gray
with black being the least common.
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Common Breeds (cont.)
Standardbred:This breed is recognised for their ability in
harness racing at trot or pace (a 2 beat
gait where the legs move in lateral pairs
i.e. left hind with left fore, right hind with
right fore). Breeds which contributed to the
Standardbred were the Thoroughbred,
Norfolk trotter, Hackney, Morgan and the
Canadian pacer.
The first trotting races were held in field
under saddle in the 17th century however
by the 18th century courses were being
used with the horses in harness.
In 1879 the name Standardbred was first
used derived from the fact that to be
registered a horse had to complete a
distance in a ‘standard’ time.
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They can be found in disciplines outside of
harness racing including jumping and
dressage, however horses which have
been pacers require some education to
teach them to perform trot.
Characteristics:The Standardbred is longer in the body
than the thoroughbred and heavier in build.
With placid dispositions they have solid
yet refined legs and powerful shoulders
and hind-quarters. In height they range
from 14.1 – 17 hands and colours include
bay, brown, chestnut, black and gray.
Standardbreds are often branded on the
neck.
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Common Breeds (cont.)
Quarter Horse:This breed was foundered from Arab,
Turk and Barb bloodlines. The name
‘Quarter Horse’ arose from the breeds’
ability to outrun other breeds in races of a
quarter of a mile or less. It is best known
today in reining, cutting, rodeo, racing and
showing circles. They are also used for
dressage, jumping and trail riding.
The American Quarter Horse Association
is the largest breed registry in the world
which illustrates the popularity of the
Quarter Horse.
Characteristics:Well-muscled body with a small refined
head and straight profile, broad chest and
rounded hind-quarters. Starting from about
14hh there are three types of Quarter
Stock/Halter type
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Horse the stock type, halter type and the
racing or hunter type.
The racing type tends to be taller and
more streamline and smoother muscled,
simular to that of a thoroughbred. They
have long legs but still maintain the
characteristic large powerful hind-quarter
of the Quarter Horse.
Stock types are smaller whilst being quick
and agile.
Horses which are shown in hand may be
referred to as ‘halter types’. These horses
are very muscled, with the typical small
heads and refined muzzles.
Quarter Horses come in all colours and
registries will accept spotted patterns as
long as both parents are registered.
Racing type
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Common Breeds (cont.)
Shetland:Shetland ponies originated in the Shetland
Isles near Scotland. Due to the harsh
climate and scarceness of food they are
quite hardy ponies. Primarily they were
used for pulling carts and ploughing
farmland however with the industrial
revolution the ponies were shipped to
Britain to work underground as pit ponies
hauling coal in the coal mines.
They are used today for showing, driving
and as children’s ponies. This breed has
also been trained as ‘guide horses’ to help
the blind in the same way as guide dogs.
The Shetland, despite its size is a strong
breed being able to pull twice its own
weight (whereas a draft horse in simular
circumstances can pull only half its weight)
and can carry up to 60kgs.
They have a small head with widely
spaced eyes, small ears and occasionally
a dished face. Their body is compact and
stocky with a muscular neck, short strong
legs with short cannon bones, broad back
and a deep girth. They tend to have
lengthy, thick manes and tails and in the
colder months a dense, thick winter coat.
Shetlands range from 7 – 11.2 hands and
come in most colours, they can live to
around the age of 30 years but are prone
to weight problems which lead to laminitis
(founder) which is a condition that affects
the structure of the hooves, often making it
difficult for the horse/pony to walk or bear
weight on the affected hooves.
They are quite intelligent, brave and
generally good natured however due to
this intelligence poor handling can
influence poor behaviour.
Characteristics:-
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Saddlecloths
It is important to remember when fitting a saddle cloth or whatever type you are using to
ensure the saddle cloth is big enough for the saddle.
Once the saddle is placed on top of the cloth about one inch of the cloth should protrude
around the edge of the saddle. A saddle which is too big for the cloth will overlap and create
a pressure point.
There should be no wrinkles or folds in the saddle cloth as this will also create pressure
points on the horses’ back.
A poorly fitted numnah. In the image you can
see the rear of the saddle is overlapping the
dark blue numnah. This will cause a
pressure point and the horse can develop a
sore back.
Some people prefer to use 2 cloths on a
horse however care needs to be taken to
ensure both cloths are even and flat under
the saddle.
Here is an example of a good fitting cloth.
There is about an inch (2.54 centimetres) of
cloth around the edge of the saddle and the
cloth has been pulled up into the pommel of
the saddle.
Before putting the saddle on make sure the saddle cloth is positioned so there is an even
amount of both sides of the horse. Ensure the cloth is lifted up into the pommel of the saddle
before adjusting the girth. This will remove unnecessary pressure on the wither.
And finally saddle cloths should be kept clean. Dirty cloths will rub and cause the horse
discomfort.
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Saddling a Horse
If you are working as a strapper or a groom one of your regular tasks will be to prepare
horses for riding. After grooming the horse, the next step is putting on the saddle.
Saddle Cloth/Blanket/Numnah
This item goes on first. Once in place there should be an
even amount on both sides of the horse. Some saddle cloths
will have keepers to pass the girth thru to help keep it in
place under the saddle.
It should sit over the horses wither/rib cage.
You can then place the saddle over the saddle cloth, once you
have it on the horse you can slide it backwards slightly to
smooth the hair (so there is no irritation) flat under the saddle.
From here you can go around the other side of the horse
(making sure to either walk in a wide circle around the hind
legs or stay close, keeping a hand on the horse so it knows
where you are when you pass thru its blind spot) and let the
girth down. While doing so, it is a good idea to check that all
the girth points and buckles are lying flat under the saddle
flap. Twists in girth points cause pressure points which will be
uncomfortable for the horse.
Coming back around to the near side (left side) of the horse,
reach under the horses belly- keep watching the horse as you
do this as some horses will not like it- bring the girth up and
fasten to the girth points under the saddle flap, again make
sure that the girth points are lying flat.
At this stage the girth should be firm enough so that the
saddle will not shift.
If you had additional equipment such as a breastplate or
martingale you would fit it prior to doing up the girth. Finally
recheck the girth tension.
The saddle should be positioned so that it is sitting over the rib
cage of the horse. If it is too far forward the pommel of the
saddle will be much higher than the cantle and this will
position the rider on the back on the saddle rather than the
middle, it will also cause the horse discomfort and restrict
shoulder movement.
If it is too far back the riders’ weight will be carried on the
horses’ loins. And the saddle may also become insecure.
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Saddling a Horse (cont.)
Once the horse is saddled check the saddle on the horse for:-
For any twisted or looped straps
Straps adjusted to the wrong buckle
If the saddle cloth has shifted.
If the saddle has shifted. Sometimes if the girth isn’t adjusted firmly when the saddle
is first put on it will slide back.
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Unsaddling a Horse
To remove the saddle it is the reverse of
the above procedure.
1) Tie the horse up safely, the bridle
should have been removed first
which will enable the horse to be
haltered and tied up
2) Make sure the stirrups are run up
(this involves pushing the stirrup
iron up the back of the stirrup
leather, all the way to the buckle at
the top, the passing the end of the
stirrup leather through the stirrup
iron. The weight of the iron on the
leather holds it in place)
3) Unbuckling the girth
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4) Going around to the other side,
either thread the girth up through
the stirrup or fold it over the seat of
the saddle so it is out of the way
5) Then heading back around to the
near side and lifting the saddle off
the horse
6) And removing the saddle cloth.
Depending on the riders preferences you
may be required to hose or wash the girth
and/or saddle cloth after use. You should
seek information from the rider on whether
or not they like this to be done.
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Bridling a Horse
Bridling can be quite tricky and may take a few practises to master.
1) Organise the bridle so it’s ready to go. Hold the reins
separately from the rest of the bridle, either over you
shoulder or over the horses’ neck. Never let the reins hang
down on the ground, as if the horse steps on them it is likely
to get a fright and not only break the bridle but also do injury
to itself (you may also become tangled up in the reins). Make
sure that the bit is lying flat and is not twisted at any joints.
2) Start by moving the halter so that it is fastened only around
the horses’ neck.
3) You should always put your bridle on from the near side as
this is the side all the buckles do up on.
4) Take your right arm around the horses’ nose and hold the
head piece (top) of the bridle. Alternatively you may find it
easier, especially with tall horses, to keep your right arm on
the near side of the horses’ head to hold the top of the bridle.
5) With your left hand guide the bit (metal piece) into the
horses’ mouth as the horse opens its mouth take your right
hand up so the horse doesn’t drop the bit out again. To
encourage the horse to open it’s mouth you can rub the bit
on the horses’ lips or insert your thumb into the corner of the
horses’ mouth/lips (there are no teeth in this area and this is
where the bit of the bridle will fit).
6) Now you can push the horses’ ears under the head piece
and tidy any mane or forelock that may be caught up.
7) Depending on the type of bridle being used will determine
how many buckles you have to adjust.
Bridle Parts
Throat latch: Once done up you should fit approximately 4 fingers
between the jaw and the strap. Or a fist under the jaw.
Nose band: Depending on the horse and the style of noseband used
you should fit approx. 2 fingers between the nose and the strap.
Brow bands: Whilst brow bands cannot be adjusted by a buckle, if it
is the correct size for the horse you should fit 2 fingers between the
brow band and the horse.
Check the bridle on the horse for:-
For any twisted or looped straps
Straps adjusted to the wrong buckle
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Unbridling a Horse
To remove the bridle:1) Organise the reins so they’re not on the ground and fit the halter around the horses’
neck.
2) Undo the buckles you did when you put the bridle on (throatlatch & nosebands).
3) Then holding onto the headpiece, slide the bridle over the horses’ ears, lowering it
gently so the bit doesn’t knock the horses’ teeth.
4) Put the halter on the horses’ head
5) Rinse the bit off with water so it is clean & ready for the next use.
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After Riding Care
Care of the horse after riding in Australian
climates usually involves hosing or
washing the horse. Due to Australia’s
warm weather it is acceptable to hose a
horse and then allow it to dry naturally but
in cooler climates different measures need
to be taken.
When hosing a horse it is important to
ensure that it is firstly tied up using a quick
release knot. The idea of hosing a horse
after work is to remove sweat and salt
from the coat and also to cool the horse
down. Salt which is present in sweat often
crystallises once the sweat has dried and
this salt damages the coat, sometimes
bleaching it on darker horses.
Washing is the process of using shampoo
and conditioner to get the coat clean. It is
important to use good
Basic overview for hosing:1) Starting at the front of the horse
begin by hosing the front legs in
an upwards direction, this allows
the horse to get adjusted to the
water and the temperature of the
water.
2) Then progress up the horses’
shoulder and hose the neck
(taking care to avoid the horses’
ears),
3) Moving down towards the back
and hindquarters. When hosing
this area pay particular attention to
the saddle and girth area, be sure
to hose under the chest area
where the girth was fitted.
4) Sweat will usually accumulate up
between the hind legs, so you will
need to direct water in that
direction. This can be done by
hosing from in front of a hind leg
and aiming up under the belly or
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by hosing from the rear of the
horse by hosing under/behind the
tail. Remember to take care and
keep your attention focused on the
horse when you work around the
hind legs. If you hose under the
tail, stand to the side of the horse
and not directly behind.
5) Once you have hosed the legs
and body on one side, repeat the
process on the other side.
6) After hosing is complete, use a
sweat scraper to removes excess
water from the coat, this allows the
horse to cool. Without scraping
water remains trapped against the
skin by the hair in the coat, this
water warms with the horses’ body
temperature and does not allow
the horse to cool down.
Different people will have different
opinions and methods of hosing a horses
head. Some people prefer to sponge this
area while others are satisfied to reduce
the pressure of the water coming out of
the hose and hose the head. Which ever
method you use care needs to be taken so
that water does not get into the horses’
ears. The horses’ anatomy (i.e. location
and positioning of the ears) does not allow
trapped water to escape easily which will
bring the horse irritation.
Avoid washing horses too often as it
removes natural oils from the coat that are
important for skin condition and
waterproofing. Only use good quality
horse shampoos and conditioners.
Conditioner is used for the mane and tail,
it is undesirable to use it on the coat as it
tends to make the hair quiet slick which
can cause the saddle cloth to slide and
shift.
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After Riding Care (cont.)
In colder climates and weather a horse
should not be left to dry naturally. Before
putting the horse away after a hose or
wash it should be dried as much as
possible, this can initially be done with a
sweat scraper then using a towel rub
down the horses’ body and legs. One the
horse is reasonably dry it can be lightly
rugged, if this rug becomes damp it will
need to be replaced with a dry one.
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Another option instead of hosing or
washing in cold weather is to use a
sponge and spot wash sweaty sections.
This will allow sweat to be removed
without chilling the horse.
After work a hot horse in cold weather
should be lightly covered,
washed/sponged and dried in sections.
Sweat sheets are also useful for drying a
wet horse.
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Senior Horses
Older horses are better first horses for
beginner and novice riders but the aging
horse will require more care and
consideration as aging brings with it many
consequences such as changes in
conformation (due to stretching and
slackening of postural ligaments), wear of
teeth, difficulties in pregnancy and foaling,
diminished immunity and diminished vision.
Every five years a horse ages is
equivalent to 20 human years, therefore a
20 year old horse is 60 human years.
Aged horses with visual impairment often
have no problems getting around a known
environment (e.g., the paddock they have
been kept in for numerous years). Horses
with serious visual problems (blindness)
often benefit from having a companion
whom they can rely on to guide them
(there is a link at the end of this workbook
if you wish to read more about blindness
in horses, blind horses are also not usually
a good mount for beginner and novice
riders).
As a horse gets older their teeth start to
wear and they will have difficulty
masticating (chewing) some feeds like hay
and hard grains. Teeth should be seen to
twice a year.
Because the condition of the horse’s body
had deteriorated it is also important to
have the farrier see to their feet every six
weeks and some horses may require
special shoeing. Hooves should be picked
out daily, even when they are kept in a
paddock/pasture.
Older horses often require supplementary
feeding as pasture and grazing often will
not provide what the elderly horse needs
to maintain health and condition. During
winter rugging and/or stabling may be
required as the older horse will be more
prone to feel the cold and some may
suffer from arthritic conditions.
A common condition in senior horses is
Cushing’s Disease. It is slow to develop
and most recognisable symptom is a
retained long/shaggy curly coat. Cushing’s
Disease is caused by an excessive
secretion of a hormone (adrenocortisol) by
the pituitary gland. There is no cure by
good management practices such as
clipping in hot weather can improve quality
of life.
The shaggy curly coat of a horse with
Cushing’s disease.
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Natural Hoof Care
Natural hoof care is the care and trimming of hooves without the use of shoes (barefoot).
Natural hoof care is a method which is designed specifically for barefoot horses and involves
a daily care system so that the horse can remain unshod for the entirety of its working life.
The most prominent leading names in the development of this system are Jaime Jackson
(former farrier in America) and Dr. Hiltrud Strasser (German veterinarian).
This method of hoof care uses special trimming techniques as well as modified living
conditions for the horse to promote and develop better hoof health. Horses require living
conditions which are as close to those that they would experience if they were
undomesticated, such as:-
24hr freedom of movement every day
herd environment
no horse shoes at all, under any circumstances
grazing or hay available 24hrs a day from ground level
No blankets, leg wraps, bell boots etc though boots for soaking or riding are allowed
Living conditions which expose the horse to the elements and terrains they would
experience in the wild:- mud, water, pasture, gravel/rocks.
Hooves exposed to water daily
No bedding in living environment
Natural amount of exercise (10miles per day)
Regular trimming
The trimming aspect of natural hoof care concentrates on the physiologically correct hoof
form along with natural integrity.
Links are available at the end of this workbook should you wish to learn more about Natural
Hoof Care.
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