SAW STOOL STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS These instructions should only be used in conjunction with the appropriate plans Step 1 For this job you will be given the following materials:- 1/90 x 40 Pine - 900mm long, 1/90 x 35 Pine - 800mm long, 4/70 x 30 Pine – 750mm long, 1/400 x 200 x 12mm Ply Page |1 Version 1 June 2011 Step 2 First you need to cut the top piece of the Saw Stool, the 90 x40 piece, to length 865mm Step 3 Next start by setting out the top of the Saw Stool. The legs are positioned 150mm from both ends of the end of the top. Step 4 This job has several angle and compound cuts that you will need to make however they are all the same angle, 4:1 or 1:4. e.g. 1=50mm and 4 =200mm. You should mark this out on a separate piece of scrap timber and keep it as a reference for the duration of the job. Once set out you can use a Sliding Bevel to transfer the angle to your job. Page |2 Version 1 June 2011 Step 5 From the 150mm mark, mark the angle so it angles back towards the end of the Saw Stool top Step 6 Next take one of the leg members and align it with the angle on the right hand side of the line. Page |3 Version 1 June 2011 Step 7 Then mark the right hand bottom corner. Step 8 From this mark square a line back up to the top of the Saw Stool Top. Step 9 Square these lines across the top of the saw Stool Top. Mark a depth of 5mm on the top and bottom of the Saw Stool Top. Page |4 Version 1 June 2011 Step 10 Cut down the inside of the lines with a Tenon Saw, make a couple of relief cuts in between and chisel out the waste. Step 11 The set out on the other end of the Saw Stool Top is the same as you have just done except it has to be a mirror reverse. Page |5 Version 1 June 2011 Step 12 The other side of the Saw Stool Top is set out the same. Page |6 Version 1 June 2011 Step 13 Now you need to cut the tops to the legs of the Saw Stool. Start 5-10mm from the end of the leg and mark the 4:1 4:1 angle across the face of the timber. Step 14 Then continue the angle across the edge of the leg. Page |7 Version 1 June 2011 Step 15 The next angle on the back face should be in the same direction as the one on the opposite face. Step 16 The next angle should join the lines back together. Step 17 With the marks joining up you can make the cut using a Panel Saw Page |8 Version 1 June 2011 Step 18 Now you need to make an opposite of the leg that you just cut. The best way to do this is to stand the piece that you just cut beside the one you are going to cut. Then mark the angle on the face of the timber in the opposite direction to the one that you have all ready cut. Step 19 The angles to the faces should be the same as the ones that you cut previously. Page |9 Version 1 June 2011 Step 20 Continue this around the leg, edges opposite faces the same. Step 21 Repeat this operation for the remaining 2 legs so that you end up with 2 pairs of legs. Step 22 Now that the first angles are cut you need to mark out and cut a checkout in the top of the legs so they fit into the recess in the Saw Stool Top and also fits under the Top to give it additional support. First, on the lower side of the leg cut, mark a line 10mm from the edge. P a g e | 10 Version 1 June 2011 Step 23 From the 10mm mark, the 1:4 angle down the edge of the leg. Step 24 Measure down this line 40mm, the thickness of the top, and from this point mark the same angle as the top of the leg P a g e | 11 Version 1 June 2011 Step 25 Across the face transfer the same angle as is at the top of the leg. Step 26 On the back edge of the leg you can again transfer the same angle as at the top of the leg and use the 1:4 angle from the 10mm mark on the top to complete the set out. Step 27 Cut to the lines, removing the high point of the leg. P a g e | 12 Version 1 June 2011 Step 28 Repeat this process on the other 3 legs remembering that the opposites will need to be set out from the other side of the leg. P a g e | 13 Version 1 June 2011 Step 29 Next you need to remove the front section of the leg top to allow it to fit into the squared of section on the saw Stool Top. On the long edge of the leg, continue the angle that you cut the leg across to the opposite face of the leg. From where this mark meets the face use the 1:4 angle to mark the area that needs to be removed. Step 30 Remove the timber. This can be cut or planed until it fits tightly into the recess in the Saw Stool Top. P a g e | 14 Version 1 June 2011 Step 31 Now the legs can be screwed onto the Saw Stool Top Use 3 50-65mm screws. The screws should be spaced evenly both vertically and horizontally. P a g e | 15 Version 1 June 2011 Step 32 Next you need to prepare the leg stiffeners for placement. As they are to be positioned tight up under the Saw Stool Top the Ply needs to be cut at the 4:1 angle. P a g e | 16 Version 1 June 2011 Step 33 Next place the ply in its position and mark the angle required. When you do this you need to ensure that the legs are in the correct position. This can be done by positioning a pre-cut template between the legs to hold them in position. Ask you facilitator for this template. Step 34 Cut and plane the ply to the lines then screw the ply to the legs with 3/25mm screw evenly spaced down each side. Ensure that the Ply is tight up against the Saw Stool Top. P a g e | 17 Version 1 June 2011 Step 35 The next step is to make the stiffener that will go under the Saw Stool Top. The first thing you need to know is the length. This can be found by turning the saw Stool upside down and measuring the distance between the Ply stiffeners. It should be approximately 585mm however each one will be different so you need to check your own. This can be done with a tape measure or more accurately with a set of Pinch Rods. Step 36 The angle that the Ply stiffeners are set at should also be 1:4. You can check this with a Sliding Bevel. P a g e | 18 Version 1 June 2011 Step 37 Mark the 1:4 angle on one end of the 90 x 35mm piece of timber. Step 38 The measure or transfer the length between the stiffeners onto the timber and mark the angle on the other end. P a g e | 19 Version 1 June 2011 Step 39 Now place the stiffener in place in the Saw Stool and transfer the position of the legs onto the stiffener. Step 40 Find the centre of the stiffener both horizontally and vertically. Start a 50 – 75mm nail at this point. P a g e | 20 Version 1 June 2011 Step 41 Take a flexible straight edge and bend it over the nail until both ends meet the two marks. Step 42 Using a Jigsaw cut out the curve and clean it up with a Spokeshave. P a g e | 21 Version 1 June 2011 Step 43 Place the spreader back into position and secure with 2 / 50mm screws, evenly spaced, through the ply stiffeners and another 65mm screw through the centre of the stiffener up into the top. DO NOT screw through the Saw Stool Top into the stiffener as these screws may be hit by a saw blade or chisel when being used. Step 44 The last step is to cut the legs to length. The height of the Saw Stool is 610mm; this is a Vertical measurement so you can’t measure along the leg to get it. The best way is to use another pre-cut board that is 610mm long. Place the Saw Stool upside down on the floor and place the 610mm pre-cut board standing vertically next to it. P a g e | 22 Version 1 June 2011 You can now transfer the line of the top of the 610mm board onto the legs giving you the correct length and the correct angle. Continue this right around the Saw Stool until all legs are marked. Completion Sand the job so you remove all pencil marks, place your name on the underside of the Saw Stool. Give the Saw Stool give it several coats of Shellac with a light sand in between coats. When you believe that you are finished complete a Self-Assessment Check on the saw Stool and then present the Self-Assessment Check and the job to you class facilitator for marking. P a g e | 23 Version 1 June 2011