Assessments/WHS/WHS/WHS Assessment 2 Practical

These instructions should only be used in conjunction with the appropriate
Step 1
For this job you will be given the following materials:- 1/90 x 40 Pine - 900mm long, 1/90 x
35 Pine - 800mm long, 4/70 x 30 Pine – 750mm long, 1/400 x 200 x 12mm Ply
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Step 2
First you need to cut the top piece of the Saw Stool, the 90 x40 piece, to length 865mm
Step 3
Next start by setting out the top of the Saw Stool. The legs are positioned 150mm from both
ends of the end of the top.
Step 4
This job has several angle and compound cuts that you will need to make however they are
all the same angle, 4:1 or 1:4. e.g. 1=50mm and 4 =200mm. You should mark this out on a
separate piece of scrap timber and keep it as a reference for the duration of the job. Once
set out you can use a Sliding Bevel to transfer the angle to your job.
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Step 5
From the 150mm mark, mark the angle so it angles back towards the end of the Saw Stool
Step 6
Next take one of the leg members and align it with the angle on the right hand side of the
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Step 7
Then mark the right hand bottom corner.
Step 8
From this mark square a line back up to the top of the Saw Stool Top.
Step 9
Square these lines across the top of the saw Stool Top. Mark a depth of 5mm on the top and
bottom of the Saw Stool Top.
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Step 10
Cut down the inside of the lines with a Tenon Saw, make a couple of relief cuts in between
and chisel out the waste.
Step 11
The set out on the other end of the Saw Stool Top is the same as you have just done except
it has to be a mirror reverse.
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Step 12
The other side of the Saw Stool Top is set out the same.
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Step 13
Now you need to cut the tops to the legs of the Saw Stool. Start 5-10mm from the end of
the leg and mark the 4:1 4:1 angle across the face of the timber.
Step 14
Then continue the angle across the edge of the leg.
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Step 15
The next angle on the back face should be in the same direction as the one on the opposite
Step 16
The next angle should join the lines back together.
Step 17
With the marks joining up you can make the cut using a Panel Saw
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Step 18
Now you need to make an opposite of the leg that you just cut. The best way to do this is to
stand the piece that you just cut beside the one you are going to cut. Then mark the angle
on the face of the timber in the opposite direction to the one that you have all ready cut.
Step 19
The angles to the faces should be the same as the
ones that you cut previously.
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Step 20
Continue this around the leg, edges opposite faces the same.
Step 21
Repeat this operation for the remaining 2 legs so that
you end up with 2 pairs of legs.
Step 22
Now that the first angles are cut you need to mark out and cut a checkout in the top of the
legs so they fit into the recess in the Saw Stool Top and also fits under the Top to give it
additional support.
First, on the lower side of the leg cut, mark a line 10mm from the edge.
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Step 23
From the 10mm mark, the 1:4 angle down the edge of
the leg.
Step 24
Measure down this line 40mm, the thickness of the
top, and from this point mark the same angle as the
top of the leg
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Step 25
Across the face transfer the same angle as is at the
top of the leg.
Step 26
On the back edge of the leg you can again transfer
the same angle as at the top of the leg and use the
1:4 angle from the 10mm mark on the top to
complete the set out.
Step 27
Cut to the lines, removing the high point of the leg.
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Step 28
Repeat this process on the other 3 legs remembering that the opposites will need to be set
out from the other side of the leg.
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Step 29
Next you need to remove the front section of the leg top to
allow it to fit into the squared of section on the saw Stool
On the long edge of the leg, continue the angle that you
cut the leg across to the opposite face of the leg. From
where this mark meets the face use the 1:4 angle to mark
the area that needs to be removed.
Step 30
Remove the timber. This can be cut or
planed until it fits tightly into the recess in
the Saw Stool Top.
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Step 31
Now the legs can be screwed onto the Saw Stool Top
Use 3 50-65mm screws. The screws should be spaced evenly both vertically and
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Step 32
Next you need to prepare the
leg stiffeners for placement. As
they are to be positioned tight
up under the Saw Stool Top
the Ply needs to be cut at the
4:1 angle.
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Step 33
Next place the ply in its position and
mark the angle required. When you
do this you need to ensure that the
legs are in the correct position. This
can be done by positioning a pre-cut
template between the legs to hold
them in position. Ask you facilitator
for this template.
Step 34
Cut and plane the ply to the lines then screw the ply to
the legs with 3/25mm screw evenly spaced down each
side. Ensure that the Ply is tight up against the Saw Stool
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Step 35
The next step is to make the stiffener that will go under the Saw Stool Top. The first thing
you need to know is the length. This can be found by turning the saw Stool upside down and
measuring the distance between the Ply stiffeners. It should be approximately 585mm
however each one will be different so you need to check your own. This can be done with a
tape measure or more accurately with a set of Pinch Rods.
Step 36
The angle that the Ply stiffeners are set at should also be 1:4. You can check this with a
Sliding Bevel.
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Step 37
Mark the 1:4 angle on one end of the 90 x 35mm piece of timber.
Step 38
The measure or transfer the length between the stiffeners onto the timber and mark the
angle on the other end.
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Step 39
Now place the stiffener in place in the Saw Stool and transfer the position of the legs onto
the stiffener.
Step 40
Find the centre of the stiffener both horizontally and vertically. Start a 50 – 75mm nail at
this point.
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Step 41
Take a flexible straight edge and bend it over the nail until both ends meet the two marks.
Step 42
Using a Jigsaw cut out the curve and clean it up with a Spokeshave.
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Step 43
Place the spreader back into position and secure with 2 / 50mm screws, evenly spaced,
through the ply stiffeners and another 65mm screw through the centre of the stiffener up
into the top. DO NOT screw through the Saw Stool Top into the stiffener as these screws
may be hit by a saw blade or chisel when being used.
Step 44
The last step is to cut the legs to length. The height of the Saw Stool is 610mm; this is a
Vertical measurement so you can’t measure along the leg to get it. The best way is to use
another pre-cut board that is 610mm long. Place the Saw Stool upside down on the floor
and place the 610mm pre-cut board standing vertically next to it.
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You can now transfer the line of the top of the 610mm board onto the legs giving you the
correct length and the correct angle. Continue this right around the Saw Stool until all legs
are marked.
Sand the job so you remove all pencil marks, place your name on the underside of the Saw
Stool. Give the Saw Stool give it several coats of Shellac with a light sand in between coats.
When you believe that you are finished complete a Self-Assessment Check on the saw Stool
and then present the Self-Assessment Check and the job to you class facilitator for marking.
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