Student Workbook
H1.6 Horse Care
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H1.6HorseCare
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H1.6HorseCare
Contents
Horse Care Introduction
Pg. 4
The Paddock Kept Horse
Pg. 5
Paddocks/Pastures/Fields
Pg. 6
The Stabled Horse
Pg. 7 – 9
Providing Water
Pg. 10 & 11
Horse Travel
Pg. 12
Loading Procedure
Pg. 13
Unloading Procedure
Pg. 14
Senior Horses
Pg. 15
Extension Lesson
Pg. 16
Recommended Reading
Pg. 17
References
Pg. 18
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H1.6HorseCare
Horse Care Introduction
The care of horses involves many tasks. This workbook looks at some of the basic
necessities and tasks you may be required to undertake as a horse owner and/or carer. A
horse is a much bigger commitment than other family pets, if fact everything about them is
bigger, feeding, veterinary bills, worming not to mention all the accessories that go with them.
With the right care and knowledge you can keep your horse happy and healthy.
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H1.6HorseCare
The Paddock Kept Horse
Horses which are kept outdoors will require checking at least once a day. If you have poor
quality or little pasture you may need to feed twice a day. Horses kept in paddocks have
more opportunity to exhibit natural behaviours and so are less likely to develop boredom
related behaviours.
When you attend to a horse in a paddock you should routinely check for injuries and the
condition of the paddock i.e. is the fencing broken. Paddock kept horses will be more
exposed to the elements so a horse may require rugging when it is cold or raining. The
hooves should be clean daily to remove dirt and debris and any stones or sticks that may
have become wedged under the hoof.
The quality and quantity of the pasture may determine how much you need to feed the horse.
pasture which is over run by weeds or poor quality grasses will have little if any nutritional
value. Good paddock management practices can help to reduce weed growth in a paddock.
Rotating paddocks regularly to avoid over grazing will assist in giving the paddock a ‘rest’ to
allow pasture to regrow. Over grazing leads to good, quality pasture being eaten to the point
where it doesn’t regrow and leads to weeds setting in.
Planting improved pastures is an option, but an expensive one especially if you are keeping
your horse on someone elses land (agisting)!
Weeds can be removed by hand if you have time or by regular spraying however horses will
need to be kept away from sprayed plant material.
Poor Pasture.
This paddock contains weeds, little grass and
patches of dirt. It also appears a little unsafe
due to the wooden rails sticking out.
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Good pasture.
There is no weeds and the fencing is easy
to see and in good condition
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H1.6HorseCare
Paddocks/Pastures/Fields
Having a well maintained paddock will help to prevent unnecessary injury to a horse.
Some desirable and safe qualities to look for in a paddock are
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Well sighted fences (meaning fences that can be easily seen)
Sunny areas
Watering points that, if shared by numerous horses, can be access by a few at a time.
(e.g. not in the corner of the paddock or yard)
Shaded areas
Areas which are protected from wind
Strong secure fencing with no sharp or rough edges
Good pasture
Some undesirable and unsafe qualities are
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Holes (e.g. rabbit holes)
Rubbish (e.g. old tyres, timber scraps)
Small gateways (e.g. not big enough for a horse, coming off hinges)
No sun or wind protection
Dirty water (e.g. stagnant creek)
Poor fencing (e.g. loose, flimsy)
Poisonous plants/weeds
Rusty wire
Chemical residue
The safety considerations to include when working in horse facilities are:
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Ensuring no sharp edges on things like walls, fences, feed bins, gateways.
Keep horses separated from spectators, pedestrians and traffic (e.g. fences, signs,
Separate entrances for horses & people, traffic officers)
Fences shouldn’t be flimsy or have loose wire the horse can get caught up in.
Gateways need to be wide enough & should swing freely in both directions (i.e. not
coming off the hinges)
Walkways should have secure footing that isn’t slippery
Working/exercise areas/arenas need footing that is secure, non-slip and free from
holes
Free from dangerous objects
Keep areas well maintained
Areas used during the night should be well lit
“No smoking” policies and signs
Regulations banning smoking & the use of naked flames
Check fodder for heat and mould
Appropriate fire extinguishers/hydrants located around facilities
Fire drills, escape routes and procedures in place and accessible for staff and public
Fire breaks around buildings and facilities
In the case of fire, rugs and blankets should be removed from horses
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H1.6HorseCare
The Stabled Horse
Regardless of what type of bedding is used, the process will be very simular. Stalls/stables
should be cleaned out at least twice a day for a horse which is not turned out.
It is safer for both you and the horse, to clean the stable whilst the horse is out of the stall
but if doing so isn’t practical then tie the horse up to one side of the stall.
Method of mucking out:1. Using your fork, remove manure and wet or soiled bedding. You may find it easier
when working with straw, to pile up clean bedding on one side of the stall. If you are
going to do so, pile it away from the horse
2. If your cleaning out sawdust or shavings, scoop the manure up with the fork and
shake to release excess sawdust so that all that will be left on the fork is the waste
3. You will also need to remove any stray bits of hay
4. With sawdust/shavings, use the shovel to remove wet patches
5. Once the stall is clean you need to replace the bedding which has been removed
with fresh material
6. Rake the bedding so that it slopes up the walls. This will help to prevent the horse
getting cast (rolling and getting stuck against the wall)
7. Take the dirty bedding and manure to the manure pile/muck heap
8. Sweep up outside the stall
Sprinkling lime or detergent onto the floor will assist in keeping odours and bacteria to a
minimum.
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H1.6HorseCare
The Stabled Horse (cont.)
Horses which are kept in a stabled environment will need attending to at least twice a day.
This is because they are confined to a small area, with no access to grazing and no
opportunities to self exercise.
As mentioned in earlier workbooks the horse’s digestive system is designed to take in small
quantities of food at regular intervals therefore a stabled horse will need more feed, in
particular roughage, to maintain weight because it will have no access to pasture. Providing
hay in morning and afternoon (and if possible some horses may require extra at lunch) helps
to maintain a healthier digestive pattern and reduce boredom.
Some horses will be messier than others when kept in a stable. Some are easy to clean up
after and will leave droppings all in one spot in the stable while others will walk it through the
bedding, requiring manure to be sifted out. A dirty stable can lead to health problems,
especially in the hooves. A stabled horse should still have its hooves cleaned out daily to
remove manure and bedding from building up and trapping moisture and bacteria from
building up in the hoof which can lead to thrush. Thrush infections result in a black
substance on the sole and frog of the hoof, strong odour and crumbly hoof horn. Some
horses may become lame when thrush is present.
Horses which are stabled all the time need exercise. Whether this be turning the horse out
into a paddock or yard for a few hours daily or regular exercise or training will depend upon
your situation. Horses that are not provided with opportunities to exert energy become
difficult to handle, can develop boredom habits such us weaving (swaying from side to side)
and crib-biting (sucking in air) and sour in mood, in some cases horses can become
dangerous. Boredom habits not only reflect a horses poor mental health but can cause a
horse to loose body condition because they spend so much time performing the behaviours.
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H1.6HorseCare
The Stabled Horse (cont.)
The size of a stable should be big enough for a horse to be able to move around and lie
down comfortably. Stables which are too small can lead to injuries and stables which are too
big become difficult to clean and maintain.
Below are some approximate sizes for different heights of horses.
Ponies up to 14.2hh = 3m X 3m
Horses 14.2hh to 16.0hh = 3.6m X 3.6m
Horses over 16.2hh = 4.2m X 4.2m
Foaling stalls/stables = 4.8m X 4.8m
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H1.6HorseCare
Providing Water
Though horses need a great deal of water, they spend very little time drinking, they will
usually consume water 2-8 times a day with each time lasting 1-8 minutes. How you provide
and supply water to your horse will depend upon your situation.
Here we have the advantages and disadvantages of some common watering systems.
Bath tubs & containers:Bath tubs hold large quantities of water and are good if
numerous horses will be accessing the one water source. they
are also easy to empty to clean. If using a tub they should be
rust free. The disadvantage of bathtubs is that they may be
heavy to move and some have sharp edges and corners
which have the potential to cause injury.
Containers can come in all shapes and sizes and are
generally easy to relocate. Rubber ones are softer and may
last longer than plastic however they may be easier to knock
over. Plastic are also easy to relocate but tend to deteriorate
in the sun.
Automatic machines:Automatic waterers save time in that they automatically refill
when the water reaches a certain low level. They are simple to
clean as most have an outlet to release stored water.
However if the waterer breaks of doesn’t function properly the
horse could be without water and it will cost time and
sometimes money to repair.
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H1.6HorseCare
Providing Water (cont.)
Natural supply:This includes creeks, dams, rivers any sort of water
supply which occurs naturally in the environment.
In some cases natural water supplies may continually
provide water all year round, which means less time and
energy put into providing water.
But natural water supplies can become contaminated, not
only by chemicals but from algae growth. Algae is
poisonous to horses. Horses can also become stuck if the
ground around the natural supply becomes boggy.
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H1.6HorseCare
Horse Travel
With the right preparation and consideration floating and travelling a horse can be stress free.
When pulling a float/trailer you need to remember you are towing a lot of weight behind the
vehicle. This weight will affect how you control and manoeuvre the vehicle. Imagine you are
standing on a bus and trying to keep your balance and stand on your feet without using your
hands to hold on; this is what it is like for your horse. Horses which have poor or bad
experiences travelling are less likely to want to do it again.
When towing a horse you will need to make the following adjustments to your driving:-
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brake slowly
accelerate slowly
increase the distance between you and vehicles in front of you. Your vehicle has
more weight behind it so it will take you longer to slow down, even if you are going at
a steady pace
increase the distance you need to start slowing down and come to a stop
take corners slowly
don’t assume that other drivers will understand you have an incredible amount of
weight behind you or that you are towing a live animal. Other drivers can assume that
because you are going slow you can stop quickly, which isn’t the case, be alert to
other vehicles around you
In the event that you need to change a tyre on the float/trailer, leave the horse or horses
loaded. It is far safer to have them remain inside than to unload the horse and lose control
because it becomes frightened by traffic or unload the horse and then have it decide it
doesn’t want to get back on. Your car jack should be able to take the weight of the horses
and the float, if you are unsure check the manufacturer’s guidelines. And use a block (i.e. a
large chuck of wood) under the float, next to the jack so that if the float comes off the jack its
not going to end up on the ground.
As always prevention is better than cure so regularly check your tyres for wear, tear and
damage.
Always have your horse tied up during travel. Horse’s that remain untied have the
opportunity to turn around in the float, which is not just dangerous for you and your horse but
other road users around you. Horse’s that can turn around will effect how the float travels
behind the vehicle and they can become injured and stuck, which usually leads a panicking
horse.
Horses which are being transported together need to be secured on a rope that’s short
enough to prevent them from biting each other but no so short they cannot lower their heads
to clear their airways.
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H1.6HorseCare
Loading Procedure
1) Ensure the vehicle and trailer/float is parked in a safe and appropriate place and
have the trailer/float open, ready for the horse to enter.
2) You may need to make the space where the horse is to be loaded inviting, you can
do this by shifting the dividing bar across to make the space bigger, then move it
back once the horse has walked on.
3) Have the horse prepared with the appropriate travelling equipment.
4) If there is only one horse being transported you should load it on the side of the
trailer behind the driver. If there are 2 being transported then the heavier horse goes
on the drivers side. This will mean the trailer will travel better as the weight is behind
the driver, in the centre of the road.
5) Under the supervision of a competent horse person, load the horse into the trailer. If
only 1 horse is travelling load on the side behind the driver. This will help to keep the
trailer/float travelling straight as roads are angled slightly higher in the middle. If
travelling with 2 horses, load the heavier horse behind the driver. This isn’t an issue
with angle loads or trucks.
6) Once the ramp is lifted up and the trailer/float is closed, then tie the horse up. Never
tie the horse up before the trailer is closed because (a) the horse is confined it will
get a fright and panic (b) the horse can pull back & fall out of the vehicle with the
possibility of doing severe injury to legs and (c) from a bad experience the horse is
likely to loose confidence and become difficult to load in the future.
7) Tie the horse up short enough that it cannot turn around or get its head around the
centre divider but can still lower its head a little.
8) Do a final check of the trailer/float and vehicle before setting off.
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H1.6HorseCare
Unloading Procedure
1)
2)
3)
4)
Ensure the vehicle and trailer/float is parked in a safe and appropriate place.
Check the vehicle then untie the horse inside the trailer/float
Open the trailer/lower the ramp.
Under the supervision of a competent horse person unload the horse. In the case of
a 2 horse, straight loading float/trailer, keep the horse straight and try to navigate the
horse so that it backs out towards the centre of the ramp, make sure all 4 hooves are
on the ground before turning the horse around. This will minimise the risk of injury
from a leg sliding off the ramp. If unloading from a 3 horse, angle load float/trailer or
from a truck there may be enough room to turn the horse inside the float/trailer/truck
and lead it down the ramp.
5) Check the horse over for injury
6) Clean and prepare the float/trailer for the next outing.
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H1.6HorseCare
Senior Horses
Older horses are better first horses for beginner and novice riders but the aging horse will
require more care and consideration as aging brings with it many consequences such as
changes in conformation (due to stretching and slackening of postural ligaments), wear of
teeth, difficulties in pregnancy and foaling, diminished immunity and diminished vision. Every
five years a horse ages is equivalent to 20 human years, therefore a 20 year old horse is 60
human years.
Aged horses with visual impairment often have no problems getting around a known
environment (e.g., the paddock they have been kept in for numerous years). Horses with
serious visual problems (blindness) often benefit from having a companion whom they can
rely on to guide them (there is a link at the end of this workbook if you wish to read more
about blindness in horses, blind horses are also not usually a good mount for beginner and
novice riders).
As a horse gets older their teeth start to wear and they will have difficulty masticating
(chewing) some feeds like hay and hard grains. Teeth should be seen to twice a year.
Because the condition of the horse’s body had deteriorated it is also important to have the
farrier see to their feet every six weeks and some horses may require special shoeing.
Hooves should be picked out daily, even when they are kept in a paddock/pasture.
Older horses often require supplementary feeding as pasture and grazing often will not
provide what the elderly horse needs to maintain health and condition. During winter rugging
and/or stabling may be required as the older horse will be more prone to feel the cold and
some may suffer from arthritic conditions.
A common condition in senior horses is Cushing’s Disease. It is slow to develop and most
recognisable symptom is a retained long/shaggy curly coat. Cushing’s Disease is caused by
an excessive secretion of a hormone (adrenocortisol) by the pituitary gland. There is no cure
by good management practices such as clipping in hot weather can improve quality of life.
The shaggy curly coat of a horse with
Cushing’s disease.
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H1.6HorseCare
Extension Lesson
Do some research into the types of weeds which are in your area that may be poisonous or
unsuitable for horses.
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Using a suitable horse, practice loading and unloading techniques.
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H1.6HorseCare
Recommended Reading
Publication:-
Author:-
Foot Steps
Sally Hinton & Joan Eccleshare
The BHS Veterinary Manual
P. Stewart Hastie
Websites:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thrush_%28horse%29 – Thrush
http://www.blindhorses.org/index.html - Blind Horses
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H1.6HorseCare
References
Publication:-
Author:-
Foot Steps
Sally Hinton & Joan Eccleshare
The Course Companion III & IV
Maxine Cave
Pony Club Manual No.2
Elaine Knox-Thompson & Suzanne
Dickens
Websites:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thrush_%28horse%29
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ow_to_buy_a_horse_l.jpg
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http://www.worldofstock.com/slides/PRU1628.jpg
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http://www.ukwaterfeatures.com/ProductImages/2076/BIG/BIG/BIG/BIG/2076.
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http://www.voicesforhorses.co.uk/news/read_815_Can-your-horse-helpAmerican-Cushing%27s-research%3F.html
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