Preventing Scaring and Hyper-Pigmentation
"If the skin is darker it is prone to scarring and hyper-pigmentation, so we
have to be more careful with skin of color," says Terri Dunn, a Berkeley,
Calif., dermatologist. One-third of Dunn's patients are of Latin, Asian,
Indian, Mediterranean or African-American descent, and thus require
special skin care.
Two years after her initial ordeal, Byers is working toward the glow she
always wanted. But not after diffusing another huge myth about her dark
skin: the need for sunscreen.
Dark-skinned people must wear it, Dunn says. "Skin cancer is rare, but it
does happen."
She recommends an SPF of at least 15 on the face, and 30 on the body,
and preferably one that contains zinc or titanium. For those who don't
want the white residue these products create, Dunn prescribes chemicalbased sun blocks.
Mary Kay Day Solution (anti ageing serum) provides SPF 25 Protection for
the face, which is 25 times protection against damage caused by UVA and
UVB as most other brand of sunscreens do not protect against both rays.
The UVA causes premature ageing while UVB causes sunburn.
Mary Kay Timewise Age fighting moisturiser is also available with SPF 15
(Minimum protection for face) And the Mary Kay sunscreen cream SPF 30
for the body.
William Ting of the Hercules-based Dermatology Associates in California's
San Francisco Bay area says dark-skinned patients who wear sunscreen
also are less likely to experience scarring or hyper-pigmentation when
acne or a rash fades.
Another tip: Take short, lukewarm showers and moisturize immediately to
avoid one of the most common and treatable problems of dark-skinned
folks -- dry skin.
"On one hand," people with dark skin "age a lot slower because they have
more melanin in their skin," he says. "But they can age even more
gracefully with sun protection."
Cleanse skin daily to remove dirt, oil and makeup but avoid abrasive
cleansers or products (puffs, loofahs), which can irritate skin of color.
Irritation may lead to disfiguring hyperpigmentation.
Use products designed for your skin type but avoid those that contain
potential irritants such as fragrance, alcohol, propylene glycol, dye and
lanolin.
Don't overdo it. Cleansing too often or too roughly will harm brown skin.
Avoid using home microdermabrasion and chemical peel kits too roughly.
They should be used according to the directions given by your Beauty
consultant or product packaging and discontinued if any irritation occurs.
Exfoliate to remove dull, dead skin cells by using exfoliating hydroxy acids
found in skin products, but test the product on a small patch of skin first.
Apply an oil-free moisturizer with antioxidants (for an anti-aging
regimen). Mary Kay Age fighting Moisturisers are oil-free and rich in
antioxidants.
Apply a sunscreen daily, on the face. In addition to sunburn, skin cancer
and skin discoloration may be caused by the sun. If you have oily skin,
the sunscreen may suffice.
Sources: Dr. Terry Dunn and Dr. Susan Taylor
Acne Vulgaris
Acne, also termed
biggest challenges
who seek clear,
addition to the
skin must also face
darkening in spots
response to the
acne outbreak.
Therefore, acne may have profound psychosocial effects in women with brown skin. Too
often acne is dismissed as a minor problem not
worthy of treatment. This may result in longlasting skin discoloration, permanent scarring of
the skin and even social inhibition. Acne and
hyperpigmenation often lead to embarrassment
and frustration, but with effective treatment,
women with brown skin can have flawless skin.
acne vulgaris, is one of the
to women with brown skin
glowing complexions. In
acne, women with brown
hyperpigmentation—skin
or patches— which occur in
To understand exactly what acne is, we must begin below the skin’s surface
deep in the hair follicle. The follicle, which is lined with skin cells, contains
sebaceous glands that produce oil (sebum). Normally the skin cells that line the
follicle are shed and brought to the skin’s surface by the sebum and washed
away. However, when the cells stick together instead of shedding, they form a
plug or blockage. A clogged pore is a commonly used term for a plugged follicle.
Beneath the plug, a sac is formed (known as a microcomedone) that contains
dead skin cells and oil. Bacteria (proprionibacterium acnes) grow freely in this
environment, feeding on the dead skin cells
and oil for fuel. As the sac continues to
grow, either a whitehead (known as a
closed comedone), or a blackhead (open
comedone) forms. In more serious cases,
the sac will become larger spurred on by
the cells that the body sends into the sac to
fight the infection, inflammation will result;
and a bump (papule or pustule), painful
nodule or cyst will develop.
Many different factors contribute to the
development of acne in women with brown
skin, heredity and stress-related hormones
being the most important. Diet may also contribute to
acne (see below). Since dark marks or
blemishes are such a problem for women
with brown skin, we often use heavy, oilbased makeup or foundation to cover the
marks. This can both cause and exacerbate
acne. Vigorous washing of the skin with
rubbing and scrubbing, or using puffs or
abrasive sponges can also cause or worsen
acne. In women of African descent, hair oils
or pomades may contributed to acne, especially on the forehead and temple
areas. This type of acne is called “pomade” acne.
When acne appears, it does so on the face, particularly in areas where
sebaceous glands are abundant, such as the T-zone—the forehead, nose and
chin. Often in adult women, it occurs along the jawline and lateral cheeks. But
depending on the source of the acne, pimples or cysts can also appear on your
neck, shoulders, chest and back, adding to frustration and embarrassment.
Acne is divided into four types:
 Comedones (closed and open): Whiteheads and blackheads
 Papules: Small or larger red or skin-colored acne bumps.
 Pustules: Bumps filled with white or yellow pus..
 Nodules and cysts: Very large pus-filled, often painful acne lesions.
ACNE AND DIET
It is still unclear if diet has a direct link to acne. However, there is evidence to
suggest that elements of our Western diet may contribute to it. Studies of two
non-Western populations (the Kitavan Islanders of Papua New Guinea and the
Ache hunter-gatherers of Paraguay) found that they do not suffer from acne.
Their diet is composed of fresh fruit, fish, game, and tubers. Unlike westerners,
the people in these regions do not consume carbohydrates (breads, cakes, chips,
cereals) or other sugars. The study investigators concluded that the sugars and
carbohydrates in Western diets increase the level of insulin and other hormones
in the body that then stimulate the sebaceous gland to produce oil. (Oil
production is one of the triggers for acne). Another study, this one of individuals
in the US, demonstrated that teenage girls who drank milk had more acne. In
the study, other foods that were associated with acne were instant breakfast
drinks, sherbet, cottage cheese and cream cheese. But in this particular study,
soda, french fries, chocolate candy and pizza were NOT significantly associated
with acne. These findings suggest that foods in which the hormones found in
milk are present in sufficient quantities can possibly cause acne. Athough we do
not know for certain how our diet impacts acne, we all can agree that a well
balanced, healthy diet comprised primarily of fruits, vegetables, and protein is
best for our bodies.
ACNE TREATMENT
The treatment of acne involves reducing the bacteria, decreasing the oil,
unplugging the follicles and reducing the inflammation. Additionally, in women
with brown skin, it is important to treat the hyperpigmentation. There are many
medications available for the treatment of acne and most are listed below. Often
several medications will be required to effectively treat your acne, which may
include one or two topical medications and one oral medication. It is important
to know that there is no cure for acne. In general, your medications will clear
existing acne lesions and prevent new ones from developing, as long as you
continue to use the medication.
Treating Mild Acne with the Mary Kay Acne system TreatmentAvailable only with Mary Kay Independent Beauty Consultant at www.marykay.co.uk
Acne Clarifying Cleanser
This clear, lightweight cleanser quickly converts to a soft foam that helps remove
excess oil. It rinses clean with no residue, and keeps dead cells from collecting in
pores as it helps clear up blemishes. This formula contains 2% salicylic acid,
combined with soothing botanicals, to leave skin clean, refreshed, and ready for
the next step. The cleanser should be applied to a wet face and neck and rinsed
with water or a wet cloth.
Acne Pore Purifying Serum
This translucent, silky serum, containing soothing botanicals, is formulated with
2% salicylic acid to help cleanse and dry out blemishes and help prevent future
breakouts. The powerful formula glides on smoothly and absorbs quickly as it
minimises the appearance of pores and reduces shine. A thin layer of the serum
should be applied after the cleanser.
Acne Spot Treatment
This botanically infused formula contains 2% salicylic acid to target blemishes
and help clear them up. This highly effective cream absorbs quickly and leaves
no residue. It should be applied directly to affected areas.
Blemish Control Toner 3 (suitable for mild/ occasional acne)
Acne medication that leaves skin free of excess oil. Helps reduce the number of
blemishes and prevents new ones from forming. For blemish prone skin.
Oral Retinoid
A derivative of vitamin A, isotretinoin (Accutane, Sotret) is one of the most
powerful and effective oral medications developed to treat acne. It’s indicated
for the treatment of severe, cystic acne or scarring acne that does not improve
with standard acne medications. Isotretinoin decreases the production of oil by
the sebaceous glands and unplugs clogged follicular canals. Isotretinoin is taken
for five months either once or twice daily. Although for many patients the acne
does not return for many months or even years after treatment with isotretinoin,
it is not a cure for acne. (Unfortunately, there is no cure for acne). However,
isotretinoin does carry serious potential risks related to birth defects. Therefore,
a woman taking isotretinoin must not become pregnant immediately prior to
taking the medication, during the five months that she takes isotretinoin, or for
1 month after taking isotretinoin. Other possible side effects include depression
and suicide, dry skin, sun sensitivity, muscle and joint stiffness and increased
triglyceride levels. Only your dermatologist can determine if isotretinonin is the
right medication for your skin. An isotretinoin registry has been recently
implemented in the US which means that you, your doctor and pharmacist will
be monitored by the government whenever isotretinoin is prescribed.
Bottom Line
Acne is not an insurmountable problem for women with brown skin. There is
effective treatment that will control but not cure acne. Remember to be patient,
since most medications can take 6 to 8 weeks before they are fully effective.
Your doctor will be able to determine the most appropriate medications for your
skin. Make sure that he or she also prescribes medication to treat your hyper
pigmentation. OR The Mary Kay Timewise Even complexion essence Active
ingredient – Lucentrix Complex) if used over a period of time can reduce the
scarring / Hyper pigmentation left due to acne.
If you experience dryness, redness, irritation or any side effects from your
medications, it is important that you call your doctor immediately for treatment,
as brown skin is especially susceptible to hyperpigmentation. Remember it is
important for you to do your part by taking your medications as directed by your
physician, washing your skin gently (no rubbing or scrubbing) and no picking or
squeezing your bumps. Do use non-comedogenic or non-acnegenic makeup and
sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 15. The May Kay
Moisturisers and foundations are non-comedogenic as specified.
In a relatively short period of time, you will have the beautiful, flawless skin that
you have always wanted.