Estonia in Autumn
22nd to 29th September 2013
Merlin at Sorve Peninsula, 26 September 2013. © Barrie Cooper
Leaders
Barrie Cooper (Travelling Naturalist/Limosa)
Tarvo Valker (Estonia Nature Tours)
Participants
Janice & Robert Elliot
Anne Hoggarth,
Frances Hutchison,
Jim & Liz Newell,
Norman Wright,
Sunday 22 September 2013
Cloudy, showers
The direct flight to Tallinn arrived on time and the group gathered to meet Tarvo – our local
leader. The drive to our hotel in Haapsalu was made more interesting by around six hundred
Cranes flying towards their roost. Common Buzzard, Hooded Crow, Herring Gull and Jackdaw
were other species seen, while Tarvo spotted a Nutcracker flying over the road. After a good
dinner at the local Kuursaal restaurant, we could hear the magic sounds of cranes flying
overhead in the dark – probably just arriving from migrating in from Finland. A short drive took
us to the Promenaadi Hotel which would be our base for three nights.
Monday 23 September 2013
Windy, heavy showers in the morning. Drier and brighter in the afternoon, but still windy. Max
temp. 12C
After an early breakfast, we made the short drive to the Puise peninsular. On the way, we saw
a few groups of cranes and a flock of around 200 Barnacle Geese. A White-tailed Eagle flew
over the road ahead of us, and ploughed fields held flocks of Lapwing, Golden Plover and Ruff;
Ravens were a regular sight. On arrival at the observation platform at Puise, it was clear that
the weather was going to be difficult. Strong winds from the north kept the temperature low and
brought in frequent heavy rain showers. The winds did bring migrant birds and there were
several large groups of Crane, Chaffinches and the occasional Sparrowhawk. A Nutcracker
gave a low flyover the group and then circled around in the strong wind. A large flock of
Woodpigeon passed between showers and a solitary Fieldfare was seen. We decided to move
back down the peninsular and were rewarded with two White-tailed Eagles, one of which was
feeding on the remains of a duck. Around 100 Barnacle Geese kept nervous eyes on the
eagles. A sheltered area with forest and a small pond gave us Marsh Tit, Treecreeper and
Moorhen. Occasional roadside stops brought us flocks of Yellowhammer, Skylarks, Starlings
and Bramblings among the Chaffinches. A flock of Barnacles provided company for five Tundra
Bean Geese feeding in a field. A confiding Great Spotted Woodpecker was our final new
species before we headed back to Haapsalu for an excellent early lunch at the Wigi café. We
then had a one hour break, during which Tarvo did a TV interview on bird migration. The lake
next to the hotel had provided some local birding for the keener members of the group and they
were rewarded with species such as Goosander, Wigeon, Great Crested Grebe and large
numbers of Coot.
The afternoon birding began in welcome sunshine without rain, but still with the strong Northerly
wind. A field with a large flock of Barnacles accompanied by around fifty Ruff were an early
stop. A visit to a mixed forest brought Crested and Willow Tits, Goldcrest, Robin and Wren,
while some of the group had a good view of a Red Squirrel. Another stop in the late afternoon
produced Mistle Thrush and Redwing, but not Pygmy Owl. As we headed back to the vehicles,
it was clear that a major movement of Cranes and Barnacles was happening overhead. In
around one and a half hours, 3600 Cranes passed over having flown in from Finland. Over one
thousand Barnacles also passed over. It was a remarkable occurrence of Crane migration and
Estonia only has a few days like that each Autumn, so we were fortunate to be in the right place
and right time to witness this wonderful spectacle of migration. The evocate calls of the closer
Cranes provided a marvellous soundtrack to this great event – made even better as it was done
against blue skies in the evening sunshine. Dinner was taken at the Roosta restaurant and,
recharged, we went to the forest in the hope of owls. Tarvo spotted a Ural Owl in his vehicle’s
headlights, but it was brief and nobody else got to see it before it flew off into the forest. We left
the forest and were driving along a road when a Long-eared Owl flew up in front of the vans and
this time everybody saw the bird. On arrival back at the hotel, the heavens opened up again. It
had been a day of mixed weather, but it had been an excellent day of bird migration and
everyone was satisfied with a good day of birdwatching.
Tuesday 24 September 2013
Windy, occasional showers, generally bright. Max temp 12C
Our first destination was the Poosaspea peninsula which is probably the best seawatching site
in the Baltic. It did not disappoint, despite the strong Northerly wind and occasional heavy
shower. A regular stream of migrating waterfowl was observed including Barnacle and Brent
Geese, Common and Velvet Scoter, Common Scaup, Red-breasted Merganser, Wigeon, Pintail
and Goldeneye. By mid morning the first Cranes were being seen following their two hour flight
from Finland. We eventually dragged ourselves away from the seawatching to walk through the
adjacent woodland. Crested, Coal and Willow Tits were in flocks that also included Goldcrests
and Treecreeper. But it was the calls of Crossbills that got us excited, but we only had brief
views of the small group of six. Four Bullfinches also gave themselves away with their contact
calls, and these were more obliging as they flew into some Rowan trees to feed on the berries
enabling everyone to eventually see them. We then drove a few miles along the coast to look
for waders but our first bird was a White-tailed Eagle sitting on a rock in the sea. After the eagle
flew, we walked down the beach and were rewarded with good views of Grey and Ringed
Plovers, Sanderling, Little Stint, Common Snipe and one Curlew Sandpiper. A few Sandwich
Terns sitting on some rocks with Black-headed Gulls provided some contrast. Throughout the
time we were watching the waders, we had the regular distraction of flocks of Cranes migrating
overhead as the mass arrival from Finland continued. In total, over three and a half thousand
Cranes were seen before lunch, which was taken at the Roosta restaurant. It had been a
fabulous few hours of bird migration which also included species such as Skylark, Meadow Pipit
and Greenfinch.
First stop after our lunch break was a brief return to the Puise peninsula to see if the Hawk Owl,
that had been there a few days previously, was showing. Unfortunately, there was no sign, so
with another heavy shower beginning we got back into the vehicles to leave. However, before
we had moved, Tarvo spotted an Osprey which we enjoyed before it drifted off in the wind. We
headed for the Rannajoe observation tower. A flock of Ruff brought the vehicles to an
emergency stop, because a Sparrowhawk suddenly appeared and took one in its talons. The
predator took its prey to feed on it in the roadside field. Just prior to that incident, a Great Grey
Shrike was showing well close to another road. As soon as we reached the tower, Bean and
Barnacle Geese were overhead – a precursor to the spectacular show that was to follow. As
soon as we took our eyes of these geese, a male Hen Harrier could be seen patrolling the field
next to the tower. From the tower, regular skeins of geese were seen including our first Greater
White-fronted, two ringtail Hen Harriers added to the entertainment. As the light faded the
numbers of Barnacle Geese increased and the highlight was a spectacular flock of 7000 flying
overhead; the combined sound of their calls and that of their wings added to the awesome sight.
In total we saw around 12000 Barnacles during our time at the tower. A few Cranes coming into
roost brought the tally for the day to around 4000 for that species. Prior to leaving, a Kestrel
came into roost. Another day of spectacular bird migration was completed with dinner at the
Altmoisa restaurant.
Wednesday 25 September 2013
Occasional showers in the morning, sunny later. Max temp 11C
A return visit to the Puise peninsular produced three Great White Egrets and migrating Siskin,
Redpoll, Brambling, Reed Bunting, Dunnock, Wood Pigeon, Stock Dove, Bewick’s Swans,
Cranes and Barnacles. At the Keemu observation tower there were good numbers of Lapwing,
Pochard and Tufted Duck, while a White-tailed Eagle and ringtail Hen Harrier patrolled around.
Lunch was taken at a house that was formerly the Karuse railway station. The afternoon gave
us our first butterfly – Large White, and dragonflies – Moustached Darter and Migrant Hawker.
We also had Redstart and two Wheatears. The ferry to Saaremaa Island was next and the
drive to our hotel included Smew and good views of Cranes feeding in a field.
Thursday 26 September 2013
Mainly sunny, less windy. Max temp: 12C
An amazing day began with clear skies and temperatures below zero. Our thirty minute journey
took us to the Sorve peninsula where migration was already underway. Large flocks of finches
including Chaffinch, Brambling, Greenfinch, Linnet, Siskin and Goldfinch shared the skies with
White Wagtails, Meadow Pipits and well over fifty Great Spotted Woodpeckers. Two Hen
Harriers, at least two White-tailed Eagles and a Goshawk, were the first raptors before Ann
spotted a Hobby posing in the sun near the top of a large tree. Several species of warblers
were feeding on elderberries, these included Blackcap, Garden Warbler, Lesser and Common
Whitethroat, Chiffchaff and Willow Warbler. A calling Lesser Spotted Woodpecker eventually
came out to give great views at the top of a tree. A few Crossbills flew over and as people took
photos of obliging Yellowhammers, a Hawfinch flew close by. After a brilliant morning’s bird
migration, we drove for another excellent lunch. We received news that Estonia’s first Isabelline
Wheatear had been found on the peninsula soon after we had left. So, as the weather and
migration were so good, the group agreed to return. Fortunately the rarity was still around and
to Tarvo’s delight we saw it and he could add it to his Estonia bird list. At the same location
there was also a few Northern Wheatear and two Black Redstarts. Walking back to the vehicles
gave us our first Woodlarks; five of them were feeding at the side of the road with a Skylark. It
was time to leave, but as Bob had not seen the Woodlarks, the second vehicle stopped to
enable him to see them. As Barrie was about to drive off he saw a Merlin sitting on a rock on
the opposite side of the road. The Merlin was enjoying an evening meal of a bird whose journey
had come to a premature end, and it provided superb views for several minutes before being
spooked by a Common Buzzard. A memorable end to a memorable day. Once again, Autumn
migration in Estonia had lived up to expectations.
Friday 27 September 2013
Mainly sunny, less windy. Max temp: 14C
A brief return to Sorve peninsula was not as productive as yesterday. Nevertheless, there was
still some good migration happening. Some of the first birds to pass through were Sandwich
Tern and Grey Plover. Finches included Chaffinch, Brambling, Siskin, Greenfinch, Goldfinch,
Redpoll and Linnet, with the occasional Sparrowhawk in attendance. A few parties of Crossbills
flew over, but were too high to see if there was any Two-barred among them. Woodcock had
been seen near the road on the drive down, but none were around the area where we were
exploring. Several Blackcap, Garden Warbler and Chiffchaff were again feeding on
elderberries, but there were fewer birds around today. We headed back to the hotel for a late
breakfast and then drove to the ferry to return to the mainland. A brief visit to a bog enabled
some of the group to see Hen Harrier and Snipe, but a few miles along the road, six female
Black Grouse were feeding. They flew into some trees and some of them were still visible
giving us further views. Lunch was taken at a Russian restaurant, after which we headed for
our hotel at Parnu. Two parkland stops produced Nuthatch, Willow Tit and some entertaining
Great Spotted Woodpeckers, but none of the continental woodpeckers we were hoping for.
After checking into the hotel some of the group went to explore this seaside town.
After dinner, most of the group took up the option to go out for some nocturnal observation in
the forest. After driving around for awhile, we eventually found a Racoon Dog as it casually
looked back at us in the vehicle headlights. Everyone had fine views of this alien species before
it casually disappeared into the forest. It was a beautiful, clear moonless night – the sort most
of us do not see in the UK, so we got out of the vehicle to do some stargazing. The Milky Way
was stunning and the occasional satellite provided some animation to the lights in the sky. A
distant Tengmalm’s Owl was heard calling a few times, but we were not fortunate to see it. It
was time to return to the hotel, but as we drive down the forest track an incredibly bright meteor
shot across the sky. It was an awesome sight but unfortunately only Barrie and Tarvo saw it.
Saturday 28 September 2013
Cold, clear start with less wind. Sunny all day. Max temp: 13C
The half hour drive to Kabli Bird Observatory was the prelude to an excellent few hours here.
There was good migration already underway and we immediately saw Great and Blue Tits being
released by the ringers. Other birds seen later in the hand included Marsh Tit, Goldcrest and
Yellowhammer. Birds on the beach or over the sea included Grey and Ringed Plover, Little
Stint, Dunlin, Bar-tailed Godwit. Birds overhead included Fieldfare, Middle-spotted woodpecker
and Bearded Tit. A calling Black Woodpecker eventually flew out towards the huge Heligoland
net, but returned to the sanctuary of the forest. After several pleasant hours in the good
weather, we moved up the coast to a place with observation towers. Two pairs of White-tailed
Eagle were sitting on rocks in the sea but soon gave us a good flight display to keep the
photographers busy. A Sparrowhawk made a brief experience while Bewick’s Swans and
Goosander were some of the species on the sea. We returned to the hotel to give people the
opportunity to explore the seaside resort of Parnu, rest or complete their packing.
Sunday 29 September 2013
Cold, windy, mainly sunny. Max temp: 9C
Most of the group got up early to make a brief return visit to the Soometsa forest. The first
vehicle saw a Woodcock fly up from the side of the road. We parked up and Dunnocks and
Wrens could be heard calling in the bushes, while Bramblings flew over. The flight call of a
Black Woodpecker alerted us and we were prepared for when it floew across the clearing to
give us a good view in the early morning light. It was clear that large numbers of geese were
migrating today, mainly Bean and White-fronts, but some Barnacle as well. Shortly after
beginning our return to the hotel, a splendid male roe deer was watched in a clearing. After a
late breakfast we began a two hour journey to Tallinn. A guided walk around the beautful old
town was very informative and enjoyed by all. We then had an excellent lunch at the traditional
Estonian restuarant of Kuldse Notsu Kõrts. In this writer’s opinion, that was the most enjoyable
meal of a series of excellent cuisine. It was now onto the airport to say goodbye to Tarvo for the
end of another wonderful trip. Once again, the Estonian Autumn tour had provided awesome
bird migration, beautiful countrside and excellent meals.
Species list, Estonia 22nd -29th September 2013. Highlights in the bold.
Birds
1. Mute Swan - common
2. Bewick`s Swan – 9 migrating at Puise peninsula on 25.9. Quite early autumn migrants.
3. Whooper Swan – small numbers at Sõrve peninsula on 26.9 and 27.9, seen also at Kabli
on 28.9
4. Bean Goose – probably mainly Tundra Bean Geese, seen on 6 days. Thousands
migrating on the 29.9 at Pärnu area
5. Great White-fronted Goose - common
6. Barnacle Goose – hundreds seen daily, 12 000 ind. at Rannajõe flood plain on 24.9
7. Greylag Goose - common
8. Brent Goose – 1 000+ migrating Dark-bellied Brents at cape Põõsaspea on 24.9
9. Wigeon – must numerous duck on the bays, seen on 6 days
10. Gadwall – common, seen on 5 days
11. Teal - common
12. Mallard – common, seen all days
13. Pintail – 50+ migrating at Cape Põõsaspea on 24.9
14. Shoveler – seen on 3days
15. Pochard – seen at Väike väin on 25.9 and 27.9
16. Tufted Duck - common
17. Greater Scaup – at least 2 000 migrating at cape Põõsaspea on 24.9
18. Common Eider – suprisingly uncommon - only 2 ind. seen at Sõrve bird station on 26.9
19. Long-tailed Duck – few hundred at cape Põõsaspea on 24.9
20. Common Scoter – 500+ migrating at cape Põõsaspea on 24.9, 25 at Sõrve peninsula on
26.9
21. Velvet Scoter – few hundreds migrating at cape Põõsaspea on 24.09, small numbers
also at Saaremaa island on 26.9
22. Goldeneye - common
23. Smew – 15 ind. at the gulf between Muhu and Saaremaa island
24. Goosander - common
25. Red-breasted Merganser – small groups passing at Cape Põõsaspea on 24.9 and Sõrve
peninsula on 26.9 and 27.9
26. Black Grouse – 6 females at the roadside near Tuhu bog on 27.9
27. Red-throated Diver – ca 10 ind. migrating at Sõrve peninsula on 26.9 and 27.9
28. Great Crested Grebe - common
29. Cormorant – common
30. Grey Heron - common
31. Great White Egret – small numbers seen at Matsalu National Park on 25.09 and in Kabli
area on 28.09
32. White-tailed Eagle – seen almost daily. At least 30 different birds througouht the trip!
33. Marsh Harrier – 1 ind at 25.9
34. Hen Harrier – few birds seen almost daily
35. Goshawk – 1 at Sõrve Bird Station on 26.09
36. Sparrowhawk – small numbers seen almost daily
37. Common Buzzard – commonest raptor, seen on 7 days
38. Osprey – 1 at Puise peninsula on 24.9
39. Kestrel – 1 at Rannajõe floodplains on 24.9
40. Merlin – 1 at Sõrve Bird Station on 26.9
41. Hobby – 1 late juvenile in Sõrve Bird Station garden on 26.9
42. Coot - common
43. Moorhen – 2 birds at Võnnu park on 23.9
44. Common Crane – seen on 4 days. Especially good migration of Finnish populatin seen
at Haapsalu area on 23.9– 700 migrating at Puise peninsula in the morning and 3 600
migrating birds counted in 2 hours on the same evening near Roosta. On 24.9 late
morning 3 500 migrating Cranes counted in 1,5 hours at Haversi bay.
45. Ringed Plover – small numbers seen on 4 days
46. Grey Plover – 2 at Haversi bay on 24.9, 3 at Sõrve peninsula on 26.9, 1 at Kabli and 4
at Pikla fish ponds on 28.9
47. Lapwing – common, seen on all days
48. Sanderling – 6 at Haversi bay on 24.9, 6 at Sõrve peninsula on 26.9
49. Little Stint – 4 at Haversi bay on 24.9, 1 at Kabli bird station on 28.9
50. Curlew Sandpiper – 1 late 1cy bird at Haversi bay on 24.9
51. Dunlin – small numbers at Haversi bay on 24.9, Sõrve peninsula on 26.9 and Kabli bird
station on 28.9
52. Ruff - seen on 3 days
53. Common Snipe – few birds seen on 4 days
54. Woodcock – few birds along the roadside at Saaremaa island on 27.9
55. Bar-tailed Godwit – 1 at Sõrve bird station on 26.09, 2 at Kabli bird station on 28.09
56. Black-headed Gull - common
57. Common Gull - common
58. Herring Gull - common
59. Great Black-backed Gull - common
60. Little Gull – 1 migrating at Sõrve peninsula on 26.9
61. Sandwich Tern – 2 at Haversi on 24.9, 3-4 at Sõrve peninsula on 26.9
62. Feral Pigeon - common
63. Wood Pigeon – common, seen on 6 days
64. Stock Dove – 1 at Matsalu area on 25.9, at Sõrve peninsula on 26.9
65. Ural Owl – one briefly seen by 3 participants at Nõva forests on 23.9
66. Long-eared Owl – 3 seen at Nõva area on 23.9
67. Tengmalm`s Owl – 1 distant bird heard on 28.9 at Soometsa forests
68. Black Woodpecker – 1 at Nõva forests on 23.9, 1 at Kabli bird station on on 28.9, 1
closely flying over birders at Soometsa forests on 29.9
69. Great Spotted Woodpecker – common, seen on 6 days
70. Lesser Spotted Woodpecker – stunning views of the male bird at Sõrve bird station on
26.9
71. Middle Spotted Woodpecker – 1 briefly seen at Kabli bird station on 28.9
72. Skylark - common
73. Wood Lark – 5-6 at Sõrve bird station on 26.09
74. Barn Swallow – small numbers seen on 4 days
75. Meadow Pipit - common
76. Yellow Wagtail – 1 at Sõrve bird station on 26.09
77. White Wagtail - common
78. Wren - common
79. Dunnock - - common
80. Robin - common
81. Black Redstart – 2 near Sõrve bird station on 26.9
82. Common Redstart – 2 near Virtsu harbour on 25.9, 3 around Sõrve peninsula on 26.9
83. Northern Wheatear
84. Isabelline Wheatear – First ever recorded in Estonia! Twitched on 26.9 near Sõrve bird
station
85. Blackbird - common
86. Fieldfare - common
87. Song Thrush – seen on 2 days
88. Redwing – seen on 3 days
89. Mistle Thrush – seen on 5 days
90. Lesser Whitethroat – 1 at Sõrve bird station on 26.9
91. Garden Warbler – 2 late birds at Sõrve bird station on 26.9 and 27.9
92. Blackcap – at least 4 ind. At Sõrve bird station on 26.9 and 27.9
93. Chiffchaff - common
94. Willow Warbler – one heard at Sõrve bird station on 26.9
95. Goldcrest - common
96. Marsh Tit – 4 at Võnnu park on 23.9, 5 at Nedrema wooded meadow on 27.9, 1 seen
from the hand at Kabli bird station on 28.9
97. Willow Tit – common at Nõva forests on 23.9, small numbers also feeding around Kabli
bird station on 28.9
98. Crested Tit – well seen at Nõva forests on 23.9 and at Kabli bird station on 28.9
99. Great Tit - common
100.
Blue Tit – common
101.
Coal Tit – small numbers seen at Sõrve bird station on 26.9 and Kabli on 28.9
102.
Nuthatch – seen on 2 days
103.
Treeceeper – seen on 4 days
104.
Great Grey Shrike – 6-7 ind. on 4 different days
105.
Eurasian Jay - common
106.
Magpie - common
107.
Nutcracker – 1 flying over the road en route on 22.9, few passing road on
Saaremaa island on 26.9
108.
Jackdaw - common
109.
Rook - common
110.
Hooded Crow - common
111.
Raven - common
112.
Starling - common
113.
House Sparrow - common
114.
Tree Sparrow - common
115.
Chaffinch - common
116.
Brambling – heard on all days, small numbers seen among the Chaffinches
flocks at Haapsalu area on 23.9 and 24.9 and on the way to Saaremaa island on 25.9
117.
Greenfinch - common
118.
Goldfinch - common
119.
Siskin – seen on 2 days
120.
Linnet - common
121.
Redpoll – overpassing birds seen on 3 days
122.
Common Crossbill – seen on 3 days
123.
Bullfinch – seen on 3 days
124.
Hawfinch – 1 at Sõrve bird station on 26.9, 1 at Kabli on 28.9
125.
Yellowhammer -.common, one also seen from the hand at Kabli bird station on
28.9
126.
Reed Bunting -. small numbers on 3 days
Mammals:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Raccoon Dog – superb views at Soometsa forests on 27.9
Roe Deer
Red Fox
European Hedgehog – 1 passing the road at Soometsa forests on 27.9
Dragonflies:
1. Migrant Hawker
2. Moustached Darter
Butterflies:
1. Large White