2012
Laser and Light Therapy in
the Beauty Industry
Figure 1: (Academy of
Dermatology, 2012)
Svetlana Cooper
Wellington Institute of Technology
June 15, 2012
Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
June 15, 2012
Table of Contents
Introduction .................................................................................................................................................. 3
Brief History of Lasers and Light ................................................................................................................... 4
Laser.............................................................................................................................................................. 5
Laser Light Creation .................................................................................................................................. 5
Characteristic of Laser Light ..................................................................................................................... 6
Laser Properties ........................................................................................................................................ 7
Selective Photothermolysis ...................................................................................................................... 9
Types of Cosmetic Lasers ............................................................................................................................ 10
Intense Pulsed Light .................................................................................................................................... 13
Facial Laser and Light Rejuvenation ........................................................................................................... 14
Hair Removal............................................................................................................................................... 17
Types of Laser for Hair Removal ............................................................................................................. 18
Other Hair Removal Light Devices .......................................................................................................... 20
Tattoo Removal .......................................................................................................................................... 21
Consultation................................................................................................................................................ 22
Laser and Light Safety ................................................................................................................................. 25
Indication, Contraindications, Side effects, Pre and Post-Care .................................................................. 26
Indications .............................................................................................................................................. 26
Contraindications for Laser and Light Therapy ....................................................................................... 27
Side effects of Laser and Light Treatment .............................................................................................. 28
Pre and Post Laser and IPL care .............................................................................................................. 29
Survey of Cosmetic Procedures .................................................................................................................. 29
My Personal Experience ............................................................................................................................. 30
My Dairy.................................................................................................................................................. 31
Conclusion .................................................................................................................................................. 33
Works Cited ................................................................................................................................................ 35
Bibliography ................................................................................................................................................ 41
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Introduction
My interest in laser and Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) Therapy started during my first year of study at
Wellington Institute of Technology (WelTec). I found a book on this subject, which stirred my interest,
and lead me to do some research about laser and IPL treatment even before I knew that I had to write a
project for my Diploma. The choice of topic for my project was an easy decision.
The more I read, the more excited I became. I decided to visit beauty salons to get more information
about laser and IPL and even experience laser treatment on myself. After I complete my diploma in
Beauty Therapy, I intend to do a laser and IPL course so that I can perform the type of treatment on
clients that I have been reading and studying about.
In my project, I will share my knowledge and experience of laser and Light treatment. I will mainly
concentrate on laser treatment throughout this project as I believe this is the future in the Beauty
Industry, but I will mention treatments using other forms of Light therapy. I will explain what the
acronym “LASER” standards for, the difference between laser and other Light technologies, what types
of treatments are available, contraindications, pre-treatment, safety procedure and post treatment
care.
Welcome to Laser and IPL Treatment in the Beauty Industry.
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Brief History of Lasers and Light
Hill & Owens (2009) suggest research and development of lasers began with Albert Einstein in the early
20th century. They go on to say that in the 1950’s, lasers started to be used in the military, space
exploration, and medicine. There are various types of lasers, but the first neodymium-doped glass
(Nd: YAG) laser was created in 1961 followed by the argon laser a year later. The Nd: YAG was later
redeveloped in 1964 for tattoo and vascular removal. In 1965, the first carbon dioxide (CO2) laser was
made. Lasers have now entered the era of the beauty industry. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
By the mid 1990’s, lasers were introduced into the aesthetics market. During which early generations of
non-ablative lasers and Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) devices were developed for hair removal, skin photo
rejuvenation, and cosmetic vein therapies.
The original Intense Pulsed Light machine, under the name “PhotoDerm”, was invented in 1991 and
arrived into the United States from Europe around 1995. “In the 1990’s, IPL started being used to treat
erythema and vascular diseases, permanent hair reduction and non-invasive facial rejuvenation,” said
Zani. (Zani, 2008)
“It's like a laser, but it's more flexible,” says Hillel Bachrach President of ESC. (Yellin, 1997)
Figure 2: Early Nd: YAG Laser System (Hill & Owens, 2009)
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Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
Laser
The word LASER is an acronym that standards for “Light
Amplification by the Stimulated Emission of Radiation.”
What is a laser and what are the characteristics of the laser light?
Figure 3: International Laser Caution Sign
Laser Light Creation
(Spooky, 2007)
Light is defined as a visible radiation that the human eye responds to. The wavelengths of light are
measured in nanometres (nm) and are between 400nm to 750nm. For example: The wavelength for the
colour blue is 488nm and green is 532nm. The majority of lasers are invisible to the human eye and fall
in the infrared spectrum of light. Cosmetic infrared lasers can be near-infrared (720nm to 1200nm) or
mid-infrared (1200nm to 3000nm). (Hill & Owens, 2009)
Creation of light is when an energy source is applied to a molecule, the energy is absorbed and electrons
move to higher orbits. When the electrons return to their normal orbit, energy is released as a photon
with a specific wavelength within the Electromagnetic Spectrum of Radiation. If this wavelength falls
between 400nm to 750nm, then visible light is seen. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
The same principle is used to create laser light except the creation is performed in a laser tube, where
the photons are reflected with mirrors - which in turn produces a chain reaction creating more photons
when they collide. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
Laser systems are made up of six basic components: The active medium (which can be gas, liquid or
solid, that when stimulated will create laser light), the laser tube or resonator, the power supply, the
cooling system, the delivery, and the software systems. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
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Characteristic of Laser Light
Light from a light bulb, for example, generates a polychromatic or multiple wavelength array of light.
When this light is projected through a prism it can be seen as the colours of a rainbow. This white light
quickly disperses in space within a very short distance. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
Laser light is different from normal light, where it is essentially a high-powered flashlight of one
wavelength (or colour), that has been controlled to form a narrow, directional beam of light. This makes
the light easily harnessed for treatments. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
Figure 4: Characteristic of Light (Pegasus Therapy Laser, ND)
According to Hill and Owens (2009) laser light has the following six characteristics:
Coherent Energy
Laser light is coherent because the laser protons travel in one straight line direction.
Monochromatic Energy
Laser is composed of one wavelength (one colour), whether it is visible or invisible.
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Parallel or Collimated Energy
Collimated energy is defined as harnessing the energy (light beam) to produce a focused spot by the use
of a lens. This allows the light beam to travel over long distances.
High Energy
High Optical Energy is the ability to deliver a lot of energy each second onto a small area. A common unit
of energy that is used with lasers is called Joules.
Pulse Duration
Pulse duration is the amount of time the skin is exposed to laser energy with each pulse. It is usually
between 3-10 milliseconds to minimise laser energy absorption to epidermis and prevent damage on
the skin surface. Pulse duration can also be referred to as ‘pulse width’.
Spot Size
The size of the treatment beam that goes onto the skin, measured in millimetres. Reducing the spot size
by half will mean the power density will increase by a factor of four.
Laser Properties
Information about Laser Properties came from (Hill & Owens, 2009), unless otherwise stated.
Laser light must be converted into different forms of energy to produce therapeutic outcomes. The
distinctive properties can cause four different light-tissue effects: Absorption, Reflection, Transmission,
and Scatter.
Absorption
Laser light is absorbed by the skin or by the material in the tissue which is called a chromophore. Light
energy is converted either into heat or a chemical reaction. A chromophore is the target of the laser’s
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Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
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energy, where the laser's light causes cutting or destruction of the chromophores. Common
chromophores in the body are water, blood, haemoglobin, collagen, and melanin.
Particular wavelengths are absorbed by particular chromophores. For example:
 Hair removal laser light is absorbed by dark pigment or melanin
 Vascular lasers target blood or oxyhemoglobin as the chromophore
 Tattoo lasers target specific dyes or tattoo pigments
Figure 5: Laser Light Absorption verses Wavelength (Laser and Health Academy, ND)
Reflection
Between 4% and 6% of natural light is reflected by the epidermis. A laser beam also reflects off the skin
or any shiny surfaces such as a mirror, jewellery, or instruments. The flatter or smoother is the surface,
the greater the reflection percentage.
Transmission
The amount of transmission depends on the wavelength of the light. Transmission is when a material
doesn’t interact with the light, thus light passes through and nothing happens. Shorter wavelengths
(300nm to 400nm) penetrate only superficially into the epidermis. Visible laser light and some lasers
near the infrared zone, easily pass through the epidermis and the dermis, and can penetrate deeper.
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Scatter
Laser light travels in one direction and does not scatter (or spread into many directions). The ability not
to scatter is very important because it can reduce the treatments’ effects.
Figure 6: The Four Properties of Laser Light (Hill & Owens, 2009)
Selective Photothermolysis
Selective photothermolysis refers to the precise targeting of a structure or tissue using a specific
wavelength of light with the intention of absorbing light into the target area only. (Kita, 2008)
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Types of Cosmetic Lasers
Skin laser therapy has been around for a long time and it has rapidly changed over the last few years.
Sometimes it is difficult to understand the difference between types of cosmetic lasers, what each one
does, and what differs from one type to another. (Copus, 2011).
There are varieties of laser machines and most of them are non-ablative, which means that these lasers
don’t destroy or peel the skin. The rest are ablative, which are more severe and can cause epidermal
burning, skin peeling or removal. (Copus, 2011).
The ablative laser is used to treat mild scarring, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and
help to “plane down wrinkles” – this process is sometimes called by its trademark
name “Fraxel”, where the laser is split into thousands of columns, carrying the
name fractional. Types of ablative lasers currently used on the market today are:
Carbon Dioxide (CO2) and Erbium / YAG that removes the entire epidermis and
part of the dermis. The healing period with these lasers are about 1-2 weeks,
during which time there is swelling, oozing, crusting and a lot of discomfort. (Lees,
2012)
Recent studies show greater results after a series of treatments for photo
damaged and scarred skin using “Fraxel”. 99% percent of the patients had at least
Figure 7: Fraxel Laser Machine
25% – 50% improvement after a single treatment and 87% of patients receiving 3
(China Manufacturers
treatments demonstrated 51% – 75% scar improvement. (Lees, 2012)
Directory ManyNet
Technology, ND)
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Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
Laser clinics reported double digit growth in 2007 compared to 2006. The laser procedure market could
grow by well over 100% over the next 3 years. Skincare and cellulite treatments will allow clinics and
med spas to increase their sales. Laser hair removal procedures have probably peaked. (Diagonal Report
Limited, 2008)
I visited two beauty salons in Wellington and after talking to their beauty therapists I have found that
the most popular laser or light treatments are:

Skin rejuvenation

Hair removal

Tattoo removal
Below is a table that summaries the different types of lasers, what it treats, side-effects and the brand of
laser used. Hill and Owens provided the tables which have the lasers divided in two groups. (Hill &
Owens, 2009)
Ablative Lasers
Type of Laser
What it Treats
Side Effects
Brands
Carbon Dioxide
Deep set wrinkles, acne
Long healing time with
Fraxel (Fractional CO2)
Laser (CO2)
scars, birthmarks, saggy skin
high risk of scarring.
(encourages collagen
High risk of pigmentation
production), and sun
for Asian people.
damage.
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Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
Type of Laser
What it Treats
Side Effects
Brands
Erbium Laser
Fine to moderate wrinkles,
Swelling, bruising, and
Harmony Pixel Laser
skin pigmentation, acne
redness for 1 – 2 weeks.
scars, moles, and sun
Darker skin can use this
damage.
laser.
Non – Ablative Lasers
Type of Laser
What it Treats
Side Effects
Brands
Pulsed Dye
Vascular lesion, spider vein,
Bruising and temporary
VBeam
Laser (PDL)
rosacea, birthmarks, broken
pigmentation.
capillaries, fine lines around
eyes, and stretch marks.
Nd: YAG
Hair removal, spider vein,
Bruising and erythema.
CoolTouch
skin pigmentation, tattoo
GentleYAG
removal, and skin
Laser Genesis
rejuvenation.
Alexandrite
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Hair, tattoo, and leg vein
Itching, redness, swelling,
GentleLASE
removal.
and pigmentation.
EplTouch Plus
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Intense Pulsed Light
Intense Pulsed Light, or its common abbreviation IPL, is not quite the same as laser, but very similar. IPL
systems work on the same principles as laser: Light energy is absorbed by specific target cells
(chromospheres) in the skin. The light energy is converted to heat, which causes damage to the specific
target area. The main difference between laser and IPL is IPL’s light is polychromatic, non-coherent, and
non-collimated. Laser produces one specific wavelength, whereas IPL can contain the full spectrum of
light including infra-red, delivering wavelengths between 500nm and 1200nm. (Pitsilis, 2011)
IPL devices don’t have a laser generating mechanism but use a flash lamp. When using IPL, the range of
wavelengths required for the type of treatment is selected by adding filters. (Pitsilis, 2011)
According to Ngan, IPL therapy is considered a non-ablative resurfacing technique, which means that it
targets the lower layers of skin (dermis) without affecting the top layers of skin (epidermis). The result is
not as dramatic as ablative resurfacing where both the dermis and epidermis are injured to produce a
much more noticeable overall outcome. The advantage of IPL therapy is its minimal downtime – a client
can often have the procedure done in their lunch break and return to work immediately afterwards.
(Ngan, ND)
Figure 8: IPL Machine (Health and Beauty, 2010)
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Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
Hill and Owens (2009) also define types of non-laser machines currently used today.
Non-Lasers Machines
Type of Machine
What it Treats
Side Effects
Brands
Intense Pulsed Light
Rosacea
Redness, swelling,
Lumenis
bruising, and
Quantrum
pigmentation.
PhotoDerm
Not recommended for
dark skins.
Radiofrequency
Skin Tightening
Contracts underlying
Facial Rejuvenation
fat, therefore some
Theramge
people experience
permanent fat loss in
their face.
Ultrasound
Skin Tightening
Minimal downtime, no
Ulthera
risk of fat loss.
Facial Laser and Light Rejuvenation
“Rejuvenate means to stimulate and renew so that the skin is at an optimal level of health and vitality.”
(Zani, Advanced Skin Rejuvenation, 2008)
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Zachary suggest that the demand for effective correction of lines, wrinkles, pigments, and scars are
always increasing. Over years, facial rejuvenation has become more attractive for clients to enhance the
tone, texture and overall appearance of their skin. Concerns about lines on the face, wrinkles, acne
scarring and pigmentation can be addressed and treated with excellent results using laser. (Zachary,
2011)
There are a variety of devices in the market that use different
energies to rejuvenate skin: Fractional Lasers, Radio Frequency
(RF), Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), and that’s just to name a few!
(Zachary, 2011)
Figure 9: Laser Rejuvenation - Before and After
“In the world of cosmetic lasers, technology has finally caught
Treatment (Balshi, 2011)
up with people's expectations creating a potentially new blockbuster market. Laser procedures are
meeting consumer demand for fast solutions to some of the most common beauty problems of both
men and women. These problems include unwanted hair and ageing skin (wrinkles or lines).” (Balshi,
2011)
The key attractions for the cosmetic laser procedure is laser skin rejuvenation treatments which are
gentle, pain free and have a long term duration. (Laser Skin Technologies, 2001 - 2012)
Facial laser resurfacing works on the underlying layers of skin to improve texture, tone, cell regeneration
and collagen formation. This anti-ageing skin rejuvenation treatment will improve skin texture and tone,
increase collagen formation to regain skin elasticity. (Laser Skin Technologies, 2001 - 2012)
Conditions that can be treated include:

Static wrinkles: Wrinkles that are visible at all times and do not change with facial movements
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Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry

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Dynamic wrinkles: Expression lines that may appear on the skin when the skin is not moving and
deepen with facial movements or expressions

Pigmentation: Freckles, sun spots, melasma, or other darkened patches of skin result mainly
from sun exposure

Scars

Vascular conditions

Loss of skin tone: The skin is losing collagen and elastin fibres. (Sholar Center for Aesthetic
Surgery & Age Rejuvenation, ND)
The most popular lasers for facial rejuvenation are the mid-infrared carbon dioxide (CO2) laser, Erbium
and Nd: YAG laser machines. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
Sun damage
The most common type of pigmentation is solar lentigines – large flat brown spots on the face and
hands caused by sun damage. Lentigines are due to the increasing number of melanocytes. (Kono, 2007)
Ablative laser resurfacing is considered to be the most effective option for skin rejuvenation, but has
more side effects which include: Excessive erythema, infection, scarring, and pigmentation. IPL systems
offer less traumatic skin rejuvenation treatment with less down time and better results. (Kono, 2007)
According to studies, light-skinned clients have
better results after treatment and fewer
complications than dark-skinned clients. (Kono,
2007)
Figure 10: Sun Damage - Before
and After Laser Treatment
(Aphrodite, 2011)
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The most common types of lasers for sun damaged skin are the Q-switched Alexandrite, Q-switched
Ruby, KTP, and Diode Laser. Carbon dioxide, Erbium: YAG, and fractional lasers, may also be effective.
(Kono, 2007)
Recent studies show: “The use of IPL for removing lentigines in Asian clients, confirmed the
effectiveness with a low risk of hyperpigmentation.” (Kono, 2007)
According to a comparison study of Intense Pulsed Light versus a Long – Pulsed Dye Laser for the
treatment of facial skin rejuvenation, found the improvements of lentigines was 62.3% for IPL and 81.1%
for the Long – Pulsed Laser. But there was no significant difference between IPL and Long – Pulsed Laser
in wrinkle reduction. (Kono, 2007)
Figure 11: Sun Damage - Before and After Laser Treatment (Dr. Mark's Medical Aesthetic Beauty Clinic, 2012)
Hair Removal
There are various types of laser and IPL devices used for hair removal and all of them are based on the
theory of the selective photothermolysis. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
The procedure of removing hair is to target the follicle and then direct the laser beam at its root. During
the hair removal process the laser beam finds the hair follicle that it is targeting by first finding the
melanin. (Hair Lasers, 1996 - 2009)
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Different types of hair absorb different types of wavelength. Clients with blond or red hair have only
10%-15% reduction with multiple treatments. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
Longer pulse durations are needed for darker skin types and coarse hair due to their longer Thermal
Relaxation Time (TRT). TRT is the amount of time it takes a substance to return to its normal
temperature. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
Hill and Owens (2009) recommend before considering hair removal you need to assess the colour of the
hair and the texture of the hair. Brown, dark brown and black hairs are the best targets with the highest
efficiency of clearance. White, blond, red, and grey hair have limited amount of melanin in their hair
follicle, thus reduced efficiency of clearance.
According to Clinical Professor of Dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical School, New York, Harvey Jay
said: “While complications from laser or light pulsed hair removal have been documented in the
literature, our study date reinforces the safe claim of IPL hair removal procedure. Using therapeutic
levels of treatments on a significant number of patents with all skin types, we have achieved patient
satisfaction and keep side effects minimal and transient.” (Yellin, 1997)
Types of Laser for Hair Removal
In New Zealand the first laser hair removal machine was the Ruby laser, after that, the Alexandrite laser
became popular. (Pitsilis, 2011)
Ruby Laser: 694nm (Hill & Owens, 2009)
The oldest type of laser used for hair removal purposes. It works best for light and fine hair types. It
cannot be used on dark and tanned skin. Ruby Lasers are preferred for hair removal as they cover a
relatively smaller area than other lasers. (Medic8 Ltd, ND)
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Well known Ruby Laser machines are Palomar E2000 and RubyStar. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
Figure 12: Laser Hair Removal - Before and After
Figure 13: Ruby Laser Machine
(The Beresford Clinic, 2008)
(Christopher, ND)
Alexandrite Lasers: 755nm
Alexandrite Lasers are the most popular laser devices on the market. These lasers are very effective for
long term hair removal for all skin types I – IV and the most effective for dark coloured hairs. The
Alexandrite laser systems include: GentleLASE, Apogee, and EpiTouch Plus. (Medic8 Ltd, ND)
Diode Laser: 800nm
The Diode Laser targets and heats water in the skin’s upper dermis, which will enhance new collagen
production. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
The Diode Laser is an extremely popular non-ablative laser for efficient hair removal on all skin types
and can treat acne and acne scars. Diode Laser treatment is not painful and side effects are minimum
(temporary redness and swelling). (Hill & Owens, 2009)
After one treatment when used for acne scars, the amount of scars decreased by 37%, after two - 58%
and 83% after a third treatment. (Acne Laser Treatment, 2012)
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Figure 13: Acne - Before and After Laser Treatment (Acne Laser Treatment, 2012)
Other Hair Removal Light Devices
Hill and Owens explained (Hill & Owens, 2009) that the procedure for hair removed using Intense Pulsed
Light is different compared to laser light. IPL produces a high intensity flash, where filters are inserted
into the applicator head, which narrow the wavelengths making them more specific when placed in
contact with the skin. The energy from the light source is absorbed by melanin, which is converted into
heat and destroys hair follicles. The pulse duration, spot size, and fluence all determine how much heat
is absorbed by the melanin in the hair follicle and how much heat is transmitting into the skin. (Hill &
Owens, 2009)
Hill and Owens (2009) believe that Intense Pulsed Light Therapy has been used for hair removal since
1998. The energy from the light source is absorbed by melanin, which is the chromophore and gives hair
its colour. The light is converted into heat and raises the temperature to 70° or more and destroys hair
growth. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
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“High-tech hair removal using IPL technology is exceptionally safe on all skin types, even among clients
with dark skin, according to a clinical study commission by Cornell University and published in the
December 2002 issue of Cosmetic Dermatology.” (Laser and Health Academy, 2011)
Tattoo Removal
Tattoos are prevalent today and 39% of adults have a tattoo. Some estimate that more than 10 million
adults have at least one tattoo. Recent research revealed that tattoos are becoming increasingly popular
among females with Kiwi women more likely to have a tattoo (22%) compared with men (17%). The
survey also discovered that 15% of New Zealanders, who have a tattoo, regret the decision to have it.
(Revell, 2009)
Tattoo removal using laser is very effective as the laser light targets the different types of tattoo ink,
breaking them down where the particles of dye will be released in the blood stream and cleaned by
macrophages. The tattoo location, size, colour and age are important to asses during a consultation.
Clients with darker skin are at risk of skin pigmentation and scarring. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
The first lasers used for tattoo removal were the Argon and the CO2 lasers. They break down the ink, but
damage other layers of skin and cause scarring. (Senerth, 2002)
Only three types of lasers have been proven effective in breaking down tattoo ink without damaging the
surrounding skin; the Q-switched Ruby, Q-switched Alexandrite, and most recently the Q-switched
Nd: YAG. They are all referred to as "Q-switched" because of the short, high energy pulses of light used
in the procedure. The Q-switched Ruby is the most commonly used laser for tattoo removal. However,
the Q-switched Nd: YAG has been recently discovered to be more effective on coloured tattoos and
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Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
darker pigmented skin. The beam of light penetrates deeper which increases the amount of damage
done to the epidermis. (Senerth, 2002)
The colour and the wavelength of these lasers vary and are indicated below:

Q – Switched Ruby Laser: 694nm, deep red colour

Q – Switched Alexandrite Laser: 755nm, near-infrared, possibly visible

Q – Switched Nd: YAG Laser: 1064nm, infrared, not visible
Figure 14: Tattoo Removal - Before and After Laser Treatment (Hostmonster, 2005 - 2012)
Intense Pulsed Light can be also used for tattoo removal. Both methods share similarities, but the
procedures are different. Laser treatment is more effective but expensive. (Huson, 2012)
Consultation
Before any course of treatment, the beauty therapist
should start with a consultation. This is the time to advise
the client about the importance of skin preparation for
the treatment and prescribe products that will work for
the client’s skin which will enhance the treatment results.
Figure 15: Consultation Card (Sunless Beauty, 2011)
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During the consultation, the beauty therapist will assess the medical background of the client, set up a
realistic expectation of the treatment, explain the procedure, what the client will feel during the
treatment, give recommendations about pre and post-care products and regimes, and finally discuss the
Fitzpatrick Skin Type Scale with the client. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
The Fitzpatrick Skin Type Scale categorises the skin into 6 classifications. The classification depends on
the amount of melanin (contributes to our skin colour and protects us again UV exposure) in the skin
and will indicate how the skin will react in the sun. Pale or white skin burns easily and tans slowly - it
needs more protection against sun exposure. Darker skin burns less, tans easily, and prone to develop
pigmentation. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
The key to successful laser and IPL treatment is to access hair type and skin according to the Fitzpatrick
Skin Type Scale. Failure of the assessment could result in an ineffective treatment, dissatisfaction of the
client, and potential injury. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
The types of lasers used on darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick Skin Type III-VI) are very different from the
types of lasers used on lighter skin. Why? It is because dark skin types have a very high chance of
developing hyperpigmetation after the treatment. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
Figure 16 Fitzpatrick Skin Type Scale Type I-V (Cacci, ND)
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Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
Fitzpatrick Skin Type Scale Classifications: (Hill & Owens, 2009)
Skin
Skin
Type
Colour
Type I
White
Blond hair and green
eyes.
Always burns, freckles.
English, Scottish
Type II
White
Blond hair and
Always burns, freckles, difficult
Northern English
green/blue eyes.
to tan.
Blond/Brown hair and
Tans after several burns.
German
Tans more than average, rarely
Mediterranean,
burns, no freckles.
Southern
Type III
White
Hair and Eye Colour
Reaction to Sun
Common Ethnic
Considerations
blue/brown eyes.
Type IV
Brown
Brown hair and brown
eyes.
European,
Hispanic
Type V
Type VI
Dark
Brown/black hair and
Tans with ease, rarely burns,
Asian and Indian,
Brown
brown/black eyes.
no freckles.
some African
Black
Black hair and
Tans with ease, rarely burns,
African
brown/black eyes.
deeply pigmented, never
freckles.
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Laser and Light Safety
Lasers produce an intense, highly directional beam of light. Properties of the laser light can cause harm
and therefore, it is critically important to protect yourself and your client against accidental exposure to
laser light. There are certain rules which you need to follow to perform safe laser or light treatment,
where only a fully trained beauty therapist can perform the treatment. (Hill & Owens, 2009)
The laser or light treatment room should have proper ventilation, either no windows or covered to
prevent light escaping, no mirrors, and either the door should be locked during the treatment or a
permanent sign should be placed outside of the treatment room to advise that the laser or IPL is in
operation. Wearing special protective glasses for both the client and the beauty therapist are required
during a treatment. (Absten, 2006)
Figure 17: Laser Danger Sign
(University of Washington, 2012)
25
Figure 18: Safety Glasses for Client
Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
June 15, 2012
Indication, Contraindications, Side effects, Pre and
Post-Care
Indications
According to Pamela Hill and Patricia Owens there are three types of skin clinical indications: Types A, B,
and C. Clinical indications are conditions which will advise if a client suits the particular treatment. (Hill &
Owens, 2009)
Type A includes superficial damage (pigmentation, lentigines, and vascular changes including
telangiectasias, rosacea, melasma and erythema). (Hill & Owens, 2009)
Type B is not a superficial but includes both the epidermis and the dermis (wrinkling; large pores, skin
laxity, and acne scaring). (Hill & Owens, 2009)
Type C is more advanced changes (keratosis or early skin cancer). (Hill & Owens, 2009)
Below is a list of items which can be treated:

Wrinkles

Solar damage

Rosacea

Rough texture

Acne scarring
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June 15, 2012
Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
Contraindications for Laser and Light Therapy
All information about contraindications has been provided by (Hill & Owens, 2009) unless otherwise
indicated.
Contraindications are conditions which will stop you from performing the treatment. These include:

Bacterial infections of the skin (Impetigo, cellulites , folliculities)

Fungal infections (ringworm)

Yeast infection

Viral infection (cold sore, warts)

Open cuts, rashes

Sunburn

Certain type of medication. For example: Accutane (a form of vitamin A) reduces the oil in the
sebaceous glands causing the skin to become thinner and it can burn easily.

Moles

Tattoos (unless removing)

Pregnancy and Lactation

History of hypo or hyper-pigmentation

Atopic Dermatitis

History of cancer

Immunosuppressive medications

Tanning
Figure 19: Cold Sore (Heal Blog, 2012)
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Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
June 15, 2012
Contraindications for Laser and Light hair removal
Contraindications for laser and light hair removal are similar to those listed above, but there is one
specific condition that needs to be considered before treatment commences:

Endocrine disorders, for example polycystic ovarian disease
You need to refer your client to a doctor and treat the type of disorder before hair removal treatment.
(Hill & Owens, Lasers and Light Therapy, 2009)
Figure 20: Polycystic Ovary Syndrome (Rebar, 2012)
Side effects of Laser and Light Treatment
Side effects of laser and light treatment may include burns, lost of pigmentation, and folliculates.
Figure 21: Hypopigmentation (Skin Sight, 2008)
28
June 15, 2012
Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
Pre and Post Laser and IPL care
Pre-care for laser and IPL treatment is just as important as aftercare, where using specific home care
products are essential to achieve the best possible result. (Hill C. , Pre and post IPL care, 2011)
The first and the most important is Sun Block. No matter what time of the year, it is essential for a laser
or IPL client to protect their skin from the sun. A lot of problems can occur from the sun exposure
including hypo and hyper-pigmentation. (Hill C. , Pre and post IPL care, 2011)
The second is Vitamin C. Clients should start using a serum with Vitamin C, one or two weeks before the
laser or IPL treatment. Vitamin C is a great antioxidant and will help to strengthen and repair the skin.
(Hill C. , Pre and post IPL care, 2011)
The third product is Flaxseed Oil. The client should take flaxseed oil at least one month before
treatment. (Hill C. , Pre and post IPL care, 2011)
Figure 22: Flaxseed Oil (Healtheries, ND)
Figure 23: Vitamin C (Blackmores, ND)
Survey of Cosmetic Procedures
The following survey was conducted by Proctor and Gamble, March 2010.
The amounts of cosmetic procedures are rapidly rising, according to the survey: “1 in 10 (8%) women
admitted to already having work done and 2 in 5 (38%) would consider having a cosmetic procedure.
The majority of respondents said they would choose to have cosmetic procedures to ‘stay youthful’
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Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
June 15, 2012
(37%), while others did so to appear more attractive to a current or potential partner (21%).
However, two thirds (67%) of those surveyed said they would happily consider using a face cream that
offered similar anti-ageing benefits to cosmetic procedures as an alternative.” (Gamble, 2010)
For those women who would consider cosmetic procedures the most popular choice was laser and IPL
treatment with 45% of those surveyed saying they would give it a try, followed by microdermabrasion,
31% These were the two most popular treatments chosen by women who had already had work done
with 49% having used IPL and 31% microdermabrasion. Almost all of the respondents (93%) agreed that
cosmetic procedures are more accepted in society today than five years ago and nearly half of the
female respondents (43%) said they were concerned about the growing trend to have a cosmetic
procedure. (Gamble, 2010)
Dr Wong, top Auckland appearance medicine expert says: “Kiwis are following a growing international
trend, with an increasing number of both men and women opting for cosmetic procedures to turn back
the clock.” He continues to say: “While lasers have been seen as the 'gold standard' for non-surgical
revitalization of the skin, anti-ageing creams can help to reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles.”
(Gamble, 2010)
To perform safe, effective treatments you need to know of anatomy and physiology of the skin,
understand healing processes, the physics of laser and IPL, and also be aware of the tissues’ effects of
laser and IPL on the skin. (Gamble, 2010)
My Personal Experience
To help with my project and to further understand laser treatment, I had one laser session performed
on myself and recorded a dairy of my experience and feelings.
30
Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
June 15, 2012
My Dairy
Thursday, 15 March 2012
I visited Courtney Clinic to get some information about laser treatment. After talking to the laser beauty
therapist, I considered having one laser treatment to see what it was like and help me understand a little
more about lasers in the beauty industry.
Monday, 2 April 2012
I finally decided to make the appointment for laser facial skin rejuvenation. I am looking forward for it.
Thursday, 12 April 2012
Day of appointment: I am very excited but also rather nervous as never experience this before.
During treatment: The beauty therapist first started working on my right cheek. I could see bright flashes
of light on my face even though I was wearing protective glasses and had my eyes closed. It was quite
painful to start with, not what I expected from the treatment. I could smell something burning (which
later happened to be facial hair) and it felt like my face was on fire. The therapist gave me ice packs to
apply on the area just treated to rapidly cool it down. She then moved from one area to another. As the
treatment progressed, I felt less pain - I must be getting used to it! The treatment took about 15 minutes
but I had to leave the ice packs on my face for some time. My face is very red and sore, but the majority
of the redness disappeared within 30 minutes.
Friday, 13 April 2012
I feel absolutely fine, no evidence that I had laser treatment yesterday. I may consider making another
appointment for a laser treatment in one month’s time.
31
June 15, 2012
Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
Monday, 16 April 2012
Everything was fine over the weekend but applying make-up with a brush this morning, I noticed my skin
is a little bit sensitive to the touch.
Figure 25: 1 hour before Laser Treatment
Figure 26: 1 hour after Laser Treatment
The photos do not really show the detail, but there is a slight redness of my skin in the after picture
(right). This is better shown in the photo below of my right cheek.
Figure 28:
GentleLase
System 
Figure 27: Redness on my Cheek
The pictures to the right are the GentleLase Laser System
and its applicator head that were used during my facial
rejuvenation treatment.
Figure 29:
Applicator
Head 
32
Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
June 15, 2012
Conclusion
Modern lasers are miracles and one of the most revolutionary medical tools in history. Popularity of
modern day procedures such a laser and light treatment will increase dramatically and will get more and
more popular, because they are quick, affordable, with minimum side effects and give good results.
(Beauty Laser, 2008)
According to the Cosmetic Laser Procedure Market Report in America, published on March 12, 2008:
“In the world of cosmetic lasers, technology has finally caught up with people's expectations creating a
potentially new blockbuster market. Laser procedures are meeting consumer demand for fast solutions
to some of the most common beauty problems of both men and women. These problems include
unwanted hair and ageing skin (that is wrinkles or lines).” (Wood, 2008)
“Laser procedures are taking consumers and their beauty dollars from established (and more traditional)
salons and spas. They are also expanding their customer base, as they attract new and younger clients.
Indeed, almost a third of cosmetic laser clients could be new to the professional beauty market.” (Wood,
2008)
“Laser technology continues to evolve and provide dermatologists with more options to target not only
specific signs of aging, but specific cells responsible for age-related changes in our appearance,” said
dermatologist Jenny Kim, associate professor of medicine, division of dermatology, University of
California, Los Angeles. (Academy of Dermatology, 2012)
During my research, I recently found new laser technology for hand rejuvenation that has just been
introduced into the beauty market in Los Angles.
Doctor Atkin, a dermatologist in San Diego, says she has seen a lot of patients concerned about "aging
hand syndrome." The Aging process is often more noticeable in the hands as skin becomes wrinkled
over time. Doctor Atkin continues to say her approach to hand rejuvenation has two-parts. Firstly she
33
Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
June 15, 2012
restores the volume in the hands and hides the appearance of veins and tendons. She then follows with
laser hand resurfacing or photo-rejuvenation to address skin pigmentation caused by age spots, sun
spots, or other related conditions. "Younger looking hands are usually free of brown sun-damaged spots
and have more volume. With aging and thinning of the subcutaneous area, tendons and blood vessels
become more apparent. When we add fillers, thus volume, the normal youthful appearance returns.”
(Hurst, 2012)
I personally experienced laser skin rejuvenation treatment and I can say laser is definitely very efficient
and gave quick results. More and more people want to look younger, fell more confident and happy.
More beauty clinics are popping up offering modern treatments, such as laser or light therapy, Botox,
and microdermabrasion, just to name a few. Talking to a few beauty salons’ employees, popularity of
laser and light treatment will increase and will become very popular.
I believe laser and light are the future for the beauty industry.
34
Laser and Light Therapy in the Beauty Industry
June 15, 2012
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