WATER-BASED NAIL POLISH FROM PLANT,
VEGETABLE, AND PLANT SEEDS EXTRACT
AS ITS COLORING AGENTS
__________________
A Research Paper
Presented to the
Science & Research Department
Integrated Developmental School
MSU-Iligan Institute of Technology
__________________
In Partial Fulfillment for the Course
Science Research
__________________
NURLAILAH Manalocon ALI
GLENDA Suminguit MALOLOT
March 2012
APPROVAL SHEET
This research paper entitled “WATER-BASED NAIL POLISH FROM
PLANT, VEGETABLE, AND PLANT SEEDS EXTRACT AS ITS COLORING
AGENTS” prepared and submitted by NURLAILAH Manalocon ALI and GLENDA
Suminguit MALOLOT
PROF. ODYSSA NATIVIDAD R. M. MOLO
Adviser
________________
Date
MS. IRIS OPINIANO
Panel Member
PROF.ALMA GLORIA S. SILVA
Panel Member
Date
Date
Technical Consultant (optional)
___________________
Date
Accepted and approved in partial fulfillment of the Course in Science
Research I/II.
PROF. VICTORIA A. TARRANZA
Chairperson, Science & Research
____________
Date
PROF. LEILA V. BERNALDEZ
Principal, IDS
____________
Date
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION
A.
Background of the Study
Women love make-up, and out of the hundreds of cosmetic products, nail polish
is one of the top five in their list. It has become a significant part of a women’s fashion
and nail care. These small bottles of color acrylate copolymer have become a symbol of
the 20th century with more than half the women using it. But as time passed by, synthetic
and harmful components were added to the original version of the nail polish which is all
natural. This leads to the destruction of our Mother Earth. Toluene, which is an example
of a solvent, could kill marine organisms when mixed with any bodies of water.
Unfortunately, not only our environment is greatly affected but also us, human beings,
are indeed suffering. Formaldehyde, most commonly known as formalin, is a kind of
solvent that is also a carcinogen which can cause cancer. It is harmful and unsafe for
asthmatic people and it could also cause allergic reactions. Other harmful solvents are
ethyl acetate and butyl acetate which are also irritants and can cause respiratory
problems. And the most harmful plasticizer is the phthalate which could cause birth
defects especially when a pregnant woman is always using it and will inhale this.
These are the reasons why manufacturers nowadays try to vary their approach in
making nail polish like changing some of its toxic components so as to produce a more
natural one that every woman desires.
1
Motivated by this, the researchers wish to create a water-based nail polish using
plant, vegetable and plant seed extracts like alugbati, atsuete, carrot and seaweeds as its
coloring agents.
B.
Statement of the Problem
The main problem of this study is to test if the plant, vegetable and plant seed
extracts (alugbati, atsuete, carrot, and algae) can be used as coloring agent of a waterbased nail polish. Specifically, the researchers seek to answer the following questions:
1. Can a water-based nail polish be obtained with plant, vegetable and plant seed
extracts as its coloring agents?
2. What are the properties of the different samples of nail polish in terms of:
a. color
b. odor
c. viscosity
d. drying time
3. Is there any significant difference between the different samples of water-based
nail polish with plant, vegetable and plant seed extracts as its coloring agents in
terms of color, odor, viscosity and drying time?
2
4. Is there any significant difference on the characteristics of a water-based nail
polish with plant, vegetable and plant seed extracts as coloring agents from the
nail polish with synthetic coloring agents?
5. What is the acceptability of the different samples of water-based nail polish?
6. Is there any significant difference between the different samples of water-based
nail polish plant, vegetable and plant seed extracts as its coloring agents in terms
of its acceptability?
C.
Hypotheses
1.
Plant, vegetable and plant seed extracts cannot be used as coloring agents of
a water-based nail polish.
2.
There is no significant difference between the different samples of waterbased nail polish with plant, vegetable and plant seed extracts as its coloring
agents in terms of color, odor, viscosity, and drying time.
3.
There is no significant difference between the characteristics of the different
samples of water-based nail polish with plant, vegetable and plant seed
extracts as its coloring agents compared to nail polish with synthetic coloring
agents.
4.
There is no significant difference between the different samples of waterbased nail polish with plant, vegetable and plant seed extracts as its coloring
agents in terms of its acceptability.
3
5.
A water-based nail polish cannot be obtained using plant, vegetable and plant
seed extracts as coloring agents.
D.
Objectives of the Study
This study aims to:
1.
Produce a water-based nail polish with natural colorants for a more ecofriendly cosmetic to lessen the harmful effects of synthetic and chemical
contents of a laboratory-made nail polish to our environment and
especially to our body.
2.
Determine if there is a significant difference between the characteristics of
the different samples of water-based nail polish with plant, vegetable and
plant seed extracts as its coloring agents compared to nail polish with
synthetic coloring agents.
3.
Determine if there is a significant difference between the different
samples of water-based nail polish with plant, vegetable and plant seed
extracts as its coloring agents in terms of color, odor, viscosity, and drying
time.
4
E.
Significance of the Study
Nowadays, consumers prefer to buy products that contain none or less harmful
chemicals and some usual coloring agents contain lead, which has harmful effects to the
body like nervous system and kidney damage, or a chance of illness during pregnancy
that can result to harm to the fetus. So, the researchers of this study will change one
necessary component of a water-based nail polish which is the coloring agent into plant,
vegetable and plant seed extracts. This study is beneficial to everyone, especially to
women who love using cosmetics.
F.
Scope and Limitations of the Study
The study only focuses on changing the coloring agents of a water-based nail
polish. The researchers aim to study the different characteristics or attributes of a watgerbased nail polish such as odor, viscosity, color, & drying time. This study is also focusing
on the effectiveness of the natural substances that are being used which are not as
harmful as the commercial nail polish which contains hazardous and synthetic chemicals.
It is only limited to using extracts of alugbati seeds, atsuete seeds, carrot and seaweeds.
Water is being used as its solvent. The characteristics and the effectiveness of the product
of this study will be evaluated through survey of randomly selected female students,
faculty and staff of MSU-IIT, IDS.
5
G.
Definition of Terms
Coloring agent
This the independent variable that pertains to the tint
of the extracts collected from the plant seeds such as
alugbati seed and atsuete.
Odor
This pertains to the smell of the nail polish which
may be strong, odorless or light in smell.
Acrylate copolymer
This is the non-toxic film in the nail polish that
creates a shiny and strong material that is used as the
primary film-forming agent in this study that also
allows the polish to stick well to the nail.
Resin
Any of various hard brittle solid to soft semi-solid
amorphous fusible flammable substances that is
usually transparent or translucent, and yellowish to
brown in color with a characteristic luster. It is soap
resistant and water resistant.
Plasticizer
A chemical substance added to natural and synthetic
rubbers and resins to impart flexibility.
Solvent
It holds the color and other material until the polish
is applied.
6
Viscosity
It is the internal friction of the molecules in a nail
polish. It could either have large viscosity because its
molecular makeup gives it a lot of internal friction or
low viscosity because its molecular makeup results
in very little friction when it is in motion.
Drying time
It is the time needed for a nail polish to stick and dry
up in the nail.
Acceptability
The satisfactoriness of the nail polish of conforming
to approved standards of the polish.
7
CHAPTER II:
REVIEW OF RELATED LITERATURE
Nail polish is one of the hottest and most commonly seen fashion accessories. It
is a great way to splash a little color into your life without being overpowering or overly
strong. From delicate pinks to off-beat blues, you can find a way to express yourself with
a nail polish. Additionally, it is a healthier and safer alternative to faux nails, which
essentially disintegrate the integrity of the nail over time. Nail polish allows for the nail
to breathe and grow naturally with non-invasive decoration.
Nail varnish or most commonly known as nail polish is basically a mixture of
various pigments and often textures in a volatile solvent, along with added film formers
that aid in the durability and quality of its appearance. It is a lacquer applied to toenails
and fingernails not only to beautify them, but also to protect them. There is no basic
formula for a nail polish but there are components that are necessarily present in it. These
include: film forming agents, resins and plasticizers, solvents, and coloring agents. The
primary ingredient in nail polish is nitrocellulose (cellulose nitrate) cotton that acts as a
filming agent. It is a flammable and explosive ingredient also used in making dynamite.
Nitrocellulose is a liquid mixed with tiny, near-microscopic cotton fibers. Synthetic
resins and plasticizers are being added to the mixture to improve flexibility, resistance to
soap and water, and other qualities. Because of the number of desired qualities involved,
however, there is no single resin or combination of resins that meets every specification.
Among the resins and plasticizers in use today are castor oil, amyl and butyl stearate, and
8
mixes of glycerol, fatty acids, and acetic acids. Solvents are used to hold or contain the
colorings and other components until the polish is applied. It must be able to evaporate
after the application process. In many cases, the solvent also acts a plasticizer. Butyl
stearate and acetate compounds are perhaps the most common solvents. Finally, the
polish must have a color. Early polishes used soluble dyes, but today's product contains
pigments of one type or another. Choice of pigment and its ability to mix well with the
solvent and other ingredients is essential in producing a product having a good quality.
(Berlow, 2011)
In order to produce a more eco-friendly nail polish, the most common sources of
coloring agents are being changed into biological pigments such as seed, leaf and
vegetable pigments. These include: alugbati seed, atsuete seed, carrot and seaweeds.
(Philippines University, 1976)
Alugbati is a succulent, branched, smooth, twining herbaceous vine, several
meters in length. Stems are purplish or green. Leaves are somewhat fleshy, ovate or
heart-shaped, 5 to 12 centimeters long, stalked and tapering to a pointed tip with a
chordate base. It is found in settled areas, in hedges, old cultivated areas, etc., throughout
the Philippines. The intensely purple juice obtained from the berries of this plant is rich in
anthocyanin and is used as a natural food colorant and dye. (Stuart, 2011)
The orange pigment found in carrot is the most familiar carotene. They function
as accessory pigments in plants, helping in their photosynthesis by gathering wavelengths
of light not readily absorbed by chlorophyll. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrot)
Annatto, sometimes called roucou or achiote, is a derivative of the achiote trees of
9
tropical regions of the Americas, used to produce a yellow to orange food coloring and
also as flavouring. It was being used as a food dye, body paint, and treatment for
heartburn and stomach distress, sunscreen and insect repellent for how many centuries in
Latin America. In the Philippines, it is called atsuete and is used as food coloring in
traditional dishes. (Stuart, 2010)
And lastly, seaweeds are group of autotrophic species which are the dominating
primary producers in aquatic ecosystems, on unstable substrates like in muddy and sandy
areas and in intertidal marine habitats. They are commonly exploited as foodstuffs, food
additives, toothpastes and making natural dyes. (Patterson, 2004)
There are various cultures throughout the history that used color on their nails to
signify beauty, social status, or spirituality.The first to make use of a nail polish were
from China during 300 BC. Chinese nail polish were made by combining gelatin, egg
white, Gum Arabic ( also called Gum Acacia which is a natural gum from hardened sap
of the Acacia tree) and bees wax with flower petals. On the other hand, the Greeks and
the Egyptians used henna to color their nails not only as a sign of beauty but also to
signify their social status. The members of the royal family used deep, intense color while
the common people’s nails become comparatively paler as they ranked lower on the
social ladder. (Peter, 2011)
But nail polish nowadays is evidently different from the ancient ones. It doesn’t
signify social classes anymore and its components are very much modernized by new
discoveries. It is sold in liquid form placed in small bottles and is applied with a tiny
brush. Within a few minutes after application, the substance hardens and forms a shiny
10
coating on the fingernail that is both water- and chip-resistant. Generally, a coating of
nail polish may last several days before it begins to chip and fall off. It can also be
removed manually by applying nail polish remover, a substance designed to break down
and dissolve the polish. Aside from that, nail polish is also a suspension product in which
particles of color can only be held by the solvent for a relatively short period of time,
rarely more than two or three years. Shaking the bottle of nail polish before using it helps
to restore settled particles to the suspension; a very old bottle of nail polish may have so
much settled pigment that it can never be restored to the solvent. The problem of settling
is perhaps the most difficult to be addressed in the manufacturing process. (Berlow,
2011)
The process in manufacturing these is a very sophisticated operation. The first
thing to be done in the process is to mix the nitrocellulose and plasticizer using a "tworoll" differential speed mill. This mill grinds the pigment between a pair of rollers that are
able to work with increasing speed as the pigment is ground down. The goal is to produce
fine dispersion of the color. (Berlow, 2011)
When properly and fully milled, the mixture is removed from the mill in sheet
form and then broken up into small chips for mixing with the solvent. The mixing is
performed in stainless steel kettles that can hold anywhere from 5 to 2,000 gallons.
Stainless steel must be used because the nitrocellulose is extremely reactive in the
presence of iron. The kettles are jacketed so that the mixture can be cooled by circulating
cold water or another liquid around the outside of the kettle. The temperatures of the
kettle, and the rate of cooling, are controlled by both computers and technicians. This
11
step is performed in a special room or area designed to control the hazards of fire and
explosion. Most modern factories perform this step in an area with walls that will close in
if an alarm sounds and, in the event of explosion, with ceilings that will safely blow off
without endangering the rest of the structure. (Berlow, 2011)
At the end of the process, the mixture is cooled slightly before the addition of
such other materials as perfumes and moisturizers. It is then pumped into smaller, 55
gallon drums, and then trucked to a production line. The finished nail polish is pumped
into explosion proof pumps, and then into smaller bottles suitable for the retail market.
(Berlow, 2011)
Today’s consumers expect a nail polish to apply smoothly, evenly and easily; to
set quickly; and to be resistant to chipping and peeling. That is why manufacturers
utilized highly skilled workers, advanced machinery, and even robotics just to produce
what the market desires. Some even vary their approach in making a nail polish so as to
attract more consumers with the enhancement of quality if their product. In line with that,
the researchers of this study will change the usual coloring agents of a nail polish into
biological pigments which are more eco-friendly. But the other components that are
necessarily present in a nail polish will be retained like the nitrocellulose (cellulose
nitrate) cotton that will act as the filming agent; castor oil, amyl, and mixes of glycerol,
fatty acids and acetic acids as resins and plasticizers; and solvents like butyl stearate and
acetate. The information about a nail polish will serve as the reference in determining the
effectiveness of using plant seeds as the coloring agents.
Some studies were conducted on the usage of biological pigments as coloring
12
agents. One example is the study that is entitled “Phytochemical screening of Gumamela”
by Pondoc (2007). Another one is the study about making a highlighter ink from
gumamela by Rulona (2008). These studies used gumamela extract or pigments as their
source of color. There are also studies which are purposely made to produce inks and
paints using different biological pigments such seed extract, fruits and vegetables extract
and many more. Examples of these are the studies that are entitled“Ink Production from
Caimito Bark” by Claro (2007) and “Dye from Carabao Grass” by Jurial and Marasigan
(2011). But this study is not the same with the other studies because it aims to produce
water-based nail polish of various colors using not only one but four biological
ingredients as its coloring agents.
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CHAPTER III
METHODOLOGY
A.
Research Design
The study aims to produce a water-based water-based nail polish with the use of
some biological pigments such as the seed extracts of alugbati and atsuete and the
extracts of carrot and seaweeds as its coloring agents as well as using water as its solvent.
Its other purpose is to produce a safer water-based nail polish than the modern ones that
could harm us and the environment. This study is an applied research since it aims to
produce a product that could be used by communities.
The experimental research design is employed in obtaining the desired product.
One set-up for each natural pigment will be prepared. Each set-up of a particular natural
pigment would have the same amount of ingredients. Only the color of the pigment to be
used differs .
B.
Materials and Equipments
Materials:
Equipments:
Seaweeds
Water
Kettles
2 Measuring Cup
Atsute seeds
Castor Oil
5 Containers
Cloth
Alugbati seeds
5 Teaspoons
Carrot
5 Beakers
Acrylate copolymer
2 Stirring rod
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C.
Experimental Set-up
Table 1 Components of the Different Samples of Water-based nail polish
Components
Set-up A Set-up B Set-up C Set-up D
Control
(Atsuete) (Carrot)
(Alugbati) (Seaweeds)
Natural pigment (mL)
5
5
5
5
none
Acrylate copolymer (mL) 6
6
6
6
6
Castor oil (mL)
2
2
2
2
2
Water (mL)
13
13
13
13
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D.
General Procedure
Preparation of Materials
The researchers would gather all materials like the vegetable, plants and plants
seeds. It will be bought at the market. Chemicals needed like acrylate copolymer, castor
oil and water will also be prepared and be bought at some stores.
Preparation of Natural Pigment
The researchers would gather alugbati seeds, atsuete seeds, seaweeds, and carrots.
The alugbati seeds and atsuete seeds will be extracted to get the needed juice for the
mixture. The carrot vegetable will be cut into pieces to be placed into a juicer to get the
extract and it will be strained using a fine cloth to get the pure juice. The seaweeds will
be extracted as well to get its juice.
15
Preparation of Acrylate copolymer Mixture
Make 4 mixtures of acrylate copolymer with water and castor oil and leave it soak
overnight in a covered container.
Formulation of the Water-based nail polish
Then strain the mixture and add the 5 mL of the alugbati seeds extract for Set-up
A, 5 mL of the atsuete seeds extract to for Set-up B, 5 mL of the carrot extract for Set-up
C, 5 mL of the seaweeds extract for Set-up D. The control group will have no coloring
agent.
Testing the Water-based nail polish’s Drying Time
The water-based nail polish will be applied in the nail of the female respondents
and will evaluate it's drying time by counting the no. of seconds or minutes it will take
for the water-based nail polish to dry.
E.
Product Development
Trials will be conducted after each trial to achieve a desired product. The research
teacher will evaluate the product and give her suggestions for the improvement and
enhancement of the product of the research for each trial. Trials will end until an
acceptable product will be achieved base on the evaluation of the research teacher.
16
F.
Sampling Design
The researchers will use Purposive Random Sampling by identifying female
respondents among the junior students, faculty and staff of MSU-IIT, IDS. The Fishbowl
Technique will be employed to choose the thirty panel of observers and evaluators. The
names of junior students, faculty and staff of MSU-IIT, IDS will be written on a piece of
paper, rolled and placed in a bowl and thirty names will be drawn to evaluate the product
of the researchers using Score Card for the characteristics and Hedonic Scale for
acceptability.
G.
Instruments in Data Gathering
This study is using a Score Card to be given to the panel of evaluators for their
sensory evaluation and the Hedonic Scale for evaluators’ measure of acceptance as
shown in the Tables 2 & 3. The data collected to test the ability of the water-based nail
polish to dry fast or its drying time will be recorded in Table 4.
Table 2 Score Card Scale for the Characteristics of the Water-based nail polish
Rating Description
Characteristics
Viscosity
Odor
5
Excellent
Very viscous/sticky
Odorless
4
Very Good
Slightly viscous/sticky
Slightly Strong
3
Good
Average
Average
2
Fair
Slightly "watery
Slightly Odorless
1
Poor
Very "watery"
Very Strong
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Table 3 Score Card Scale for the Color of The Water-based nail polish
Rating Description
Color
5
Excellent
Set-up A
(red)
Brilliant
Set-up B
(orange)
Brilliant
Set-up C
(purple)
Brilliant
Set-up D
(green)
Brilliant
4
Very Good
Slightly
Slightly
Slightly
Slightly
Brilliant
Brilliant
Brilliant
Brilliant
3
Good
Average
Average
Average
Average
2
Fair
Slightly not
Slightly not
Slightly not
Slightly not
Brilliant
Brilliant
Brilliant
Brilliant
Not Brilliant
Not Brilliant
Not Brilliant
Not Brilliant
1
Poor
Table 4 Hedonic Scale for the Acceptability
Rating
General Acceptability
9
Like Extremely
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
Like Very Much
Like Moderately
Like Slightly
Neither Like Nor Dislike
Dislike Slightly
Dislike Moderately
Dislike Very Much
Dislike Extremely
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Table 5 Result on the Drying Time for each Sample of Water-based nail polish
Water-based nail polish Sample
Drying Time (sec/min)
Trial 1 Trial 2 Trial 3 Mean
Set-up A
Set-up B
Set-up C
Set-up D
Control
H.
Product Evaluation
The panel of evaluator will be given the Score Card and Hedonic Scale to
evaluate the different samples of water-based nail polish in terms of its characteristics,
color and acceptability. The evaluators will have to put on the water-based nail polish on
their nails then rate the desirable characteristics of each sample product by using
numerical rating from 1 – 5, where 5 is the highest and 1 is the lowest. Specific
descriptions per characteristics were laid out in Table 2 & 3 for easy evaluation and to
minimize biases.
The overall acceptability of the samples of water-based nail polish will be rated
using Hedonic Scale. The evaluators will rate the samples from 1 – 9 were 1 corresponds
to “dislike extremely” which means least accepted and 9 corresponds to “like extremely”
which means the most accepted product as shown in Table 7.
I.
Statistical Tools for Data Analysis
This study will use statistical tool such as the weighted mean to identify the
average for each criteria based on the scores given by the evaluators and z-score for
19
comparing the characteristics of different water-based nail polish using different coloring
agents in terms of color, odor and viscosity. ANOVA will be used to verify if there is
significant difference on the drying time of the water-based nail polish samples.
Weighted Mean
x̄=ΣX/n
where :
x̄= sample mean
Σ= summation
X= all values in the data set
n= total number of values in the sample
Z-Score
z = (X – x̄)/s
where:
z = z score or standard score
X = value
x̄ = sample mean
s = sample standard deviation
Tool for Drying Time
Stopwatch will be used to determine the no. of seconds or minutes that the waterbased nail polish will take to be dry.
For interpretation of results, the following tables below will serve as a guide.
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Table 6 Score Card Interpretation Guide
Mean
General
Rating
Interpretation
4.20 5.00
Color
Viscosity
Odor
Brilliant
Very
Odorless
Excellent
3.40 4.19
Very good
2.60 3.39
Good
1.80 2.59
Satisfactory
1.00 1.79
Poor
Description
viscous/sticky
Slightly
Slightly
Slightly
Brilliant
viscous/sticky
Strong
Average
Average
Average
Slightly not
Brilliant
Slightly "watery
Slightly
Odorless
Not Brilliant
Very "watery"
Very Strong
Table 7 Hedonic Scale Interpretation Guide
Mean Rating
General Acceptability
8.12 - 9.00
Like Extremely
7.23 - 8.11
Like Very Much
6.34 - 7.22
Like Moderately
5.45 - 6.33
Like Slightly
4.56 - 5.44
Neither Like Nor Dislike
3.67 - 4.55
Dislike Slightly
2.78 - 3.66
Dislike Moderately
1.89 - 2.77
Dislike Very Much
1.00 - 1.88
Dislike Extremely
21
J.
Procedure Flowchart
1. Preparation
of Materials
5. Testing the
Nail Polish's
Drying Time
2. Preparation
of Natural
Pigment
3. Preparation
of Nitrocellulose
Mixture
4. Formulation
of the Nail
Polish
22