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Nibran Lopez
Research paper
When it comes to productions makeup and costumes are the most important factors to consider
when developing a character. Appearance goes to serve the character justice in showing their traits. The
evolution of makeup goes as far back as 4000 BC. Costume design as well as makeup began of theatrical
performances in 2000 BC. Although one dose not think much when looking at makeup and costumes
there many techniques when it comes to applying and creating a character.
History/ Background
To this day looks such as the “cat eye” are known to be inspired by the Egyptians.
Different shades of color and even perfume are recognized by them. Their beauty supply came
from natural resources, in order to keep their skin smooth and hydrated they would make
ointments called unguent, that would also be used to treat burns and rashes; however are not as
harsh and contain more oil to keep the skin smooth and radiant. Kohl made out of soot was used
for mascara and eyeliner in order to darken the eyes and create an intense look. Surprisingly men
and pharos most commonly used the products. Makeup was a way and continues to be a way of
disguise and build confidence. Makeup was also later seen in 1000 BC, Persian women would
use henna dyes to stain their hair and faces. In the1st century Romans used kohl and chalk to
whiten their faces. In the 1600’s one could say makeup began to become toxic, women would
use loos powder now known as “cover up” that contained arsenic. In the late 1700’s rouge, red
lipstick, eyebrow and hair dying became popular amongst women. Makeup was still not as it as
best although it contained herbs and such it also contained lead and mercury leading to skin
damage and possibly death. In the 1800’s Victorian women plucked their eyebrows massaged
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castor oil on to their eyelashes to help growth, used rice powder on their face (rice powder can be
purchased to this date), and buffed their nails. There was also the use of clear pomade on the lips
to create a fuller look, the same way bright eye shadows are applied to the lips. In 1820 the first
nontoxic mascara was released. In 1910 the first portable cover up pallet was introduced
including a mirror, powder blush was soon invented after, before women would use bright pinks
or dark red lipsticks and rub them on the cheek bones to create “blush”.
Important Terminology
Terminology for fabrics:
Natural Fabrics:
Wool: wool is thick and warm material. It
comes from different animal coats and not all
are scratchy.
Cotton: cotton is cool, soft and comfortable.
Comes from the cotton plant’s seedpod.
Silk: has the reputation as a luxurious and
sensuous fabric
Linen: is often confused with cotton, has a
natural luster from the fiber taken from the
stalk of the plant.
Synthetic Fabrics:
Rayon: can imitate the feel and texture of silk,
wool, cotton, and linen.
Acetate: Is soft, smooth, dry and crisp.
Environment friendly
Nylon: has the ability to be lustrous,
semilustrous, or dull.
Polyester: have a less natural feel when
compared to similarly woven fabrics made from
natural fibers.
Before deciding what types of color’s or patterns the designer wants to make one must
first consider the different types of fabrics. There are natural fabrics that come from plants and
animals that are converted into the material. Then there are the synthetic fibers that were
experiments to improve naturally occurring animal and plant fibers.
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Natural fabrics have their own unique similarities and differences that can be beneficial
depending on its usage. For example a designer would not make a bikini made out of wool for a
scene at the beach. Wool is a warm sometimes itchy sometimes soft material that can absorb 30
percent of its own weight without feeling damp. Because of wool’s capability it has become a
popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Cotton is also a favorite when it comes to dyeing the
material it’s a type of fiber that absorbs and releases perspiration allowing fabric and the user to
“breath”. Silk is a natural protein fiber taken from the cocoon of the silkworm. Its reputation
consists of luxury. Silk is a type of fiber that can be used in different types of atmospheres
because of its capability to absorb, making it cool in the summer and warm in winter. Silk is also
popular because how well it takes to dyeing deep colors. Linen usually confused with cotton. It is
made from flax, it is usually white or tan due to this it is easily dyed and it does not fade when
washed.
Synthetic fabrics can be described as sort of natural fabrics on steroids; they are designed
to improve the fibers. For example Nylon became a replacement for silk in WW2 when it
became scarce. It replaced silk in military applications such as parachutes and flak vests. Now
Nylon is still used in many applications like bridal veils, carpets, musical strings, and rope.
Rayon is another fiber that has become a sort of replacing of a natural fiber. It can imitate the
feel and texture of silk and cotton, it is a very versatile fiber and it has many of the same comfort
properties as natural fibers. Alike linen Acetate is able to adapt to deep shades of color. Polyester
seems to be the only synthetic fiber to not be able to imitate that of natural fibers. It is the most
widely used man-made fiber in the world. Polyester has advantages other fabrics don’t; they are
wrinkle and stain resistant.
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Tools and Accessories:
Tape measures: Are flexible rulers
Pattern: a consistent design
Sloper: a basic patter shape in a variety of
sizes
Pattering template:
Seam rippers: a small tool for picking stiches
Tailor’s chalk: hard chalk or soapstone used
in tailoring and dressmaking for marking
fabric.
Mr. Puffy: the chalk line of costume design.
In this section of the chapter it is explained chronologically how to design one’s own
pattern using different types of small tools. Tape measures are preferable because of its
flexibility, the body has curves a regular ruler would not be able to precisely measure. Sloper’s
are able to create an exact pattern. Thread is also introduced; there are different types of colors
and fibers like cotton, rayon, polyester, silk etc. it is important to know what the designer will be
sewing in order to choose a specific thread. Buttons, zippers, and lace are all unique applications
that can make the design unique. Tailor’s chalk seems to be the next important step, its perfect to
adjust the fit for the person wearing the garment.
Styles and Techniques
Pre- application can be different types of moisturizers and primers. However,
moisturizers don’t serve the exact same purpose as face primers. Moisturizers are used to
moisturize the skin and to keep it from becoming dry. There are many different face primers that
are used for different situations in this case as theater makeup a plain “photo ready” primer
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would be appropriate considering the bright lights on stage. Primer helps moisturize the skin and
keep the makeup in place when he actor is sweating it also prevents breakouts and the look of
oily skin. Thus, face primer is the best choice for pre-application; it’s healthier for the skin and
most appealing to the eye.
Makeup application is a very important factor audience’s see the actor from all
different sides and angles. Foundation is always recommended to be two shades darker to not
appear pale to the audience. The foundation must be applied to all parts of the body that are
visible to appear one complete color, including legs and arms. In order to enhance high cheek
bone appearance (depending on character) one must use the contouring technique to highlight the
bones. This technique can also be used to make the character look slimmer or heavier. In this
source the application used to enhance facial features is blush. Blush is brushed on from the
apples of the cheeks and pulled up to the temples of the head.
Like blush eye shadow is used to enhance something to make something “pop
out” or appear soft. Depending on character natural shades and heavy shades are significant.
Nude colors are best for male roles to make the eyes noticeable, but not too noticeable where it
appears heavy. Dark eye shadows usually sink in the eyes appearing them to look smaller;
however, depending how it was applied It could add extreme sexy or villainous vibes to the
character.
In order to make eyes larger than life it’s always best to apply white eyeliner on the water
line, the color white will blend in with the color of the eye making it appear bigger. Eyeliner can
do countless tricks from changing the shape of the eye to making them deeper or wider. It is also
clever to apply half cut false eyelashes on bottom lashes make the eyes appear larger.
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It’s always best to apply translucent powder at the end of eye appliances to get rid of
excess eye shadow and blend in foundation. Its best to apply powder with Kabuki brushes to
blend it in better. It’s important to blend in powder the best it can blend I order to prevent oily or
shiny looking skin.
Reflection
Theater makeup and makeup in general along with costumes, have been an immense part
of a portraying character. There are techniques like highlighting and contouring that most people
would not notice. There are also the different types of material and fabric a costume designer
needs to take under consideration when characters are on stage/set. Make up and costume
designing have are not noticeable until they are missing, it is truly and important, fun, creative
and beautiful part of a production.
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Resources:
"Makeup | Daily Infographic." Daily Infographic RSS. N.p., n.d. Web. 24 Apr. 2014
Ess, Kristin. "FINDING YOUR FACE SHAPE." The Beauty Department Your Daily Dose of
Pretty. N.p., n.d. Web. 24 Apr. 2014.
"How to Apply Stage Makeup." WikiHow. Ed. Sondra C., Ms. Sondra C, Ben Rubenstein,
Lillian May, Blizzerand, n.d. Web. 21 Mar. 2014.
GOSS MAKE UP ARTIST, 7 June 2012. Web. 14 Apr. 2014.