2015
HORSES AND HORSE
MANAGEMENT
FOR THE AMATEUR ENGLISH EQUESTRIAN
BY NATALIE MARTIN, NCM EQUESTRIAN
CONTENTS
GENERAL (3-4)
RULES
LIST OF ESSENTIALS
HORSE MANAGEMENT (5-7)
GROOMING
STALL CLEANING
FEED
VITAMINS and SUPPLEMENTS
WATER
BLANKETING
CLIPPING
VETERINARY CARE (8-10)
VITAL SIGNS
COMMON AILMENTS and CONDITIONS
VACCINES
DENTAL
FARRIER
WRAPPING
APPAREL (11)
HELMETS
BOOTS
GLOVES
BREECHES
2 |NCM EQUESTRIAN
TACK AND EQUIPMENT (12-14)
SADDLES
BRIDLES
REINS
BITS
NOSEBANDS
WHIPS
SPURS
GENERAL

RULES










Always walk in the barn or arena area – no running
Never stand directly behind a horse. This is a blind spot
When passing behind a horse, either stay shoulder to rump,
or pass far behind. This is because their kick has little
strength right under their rump. The kick has the most
power a few feet out or back from their hindquarters.
Don’t pass under a horse’s neck. They have a blind spot
right underneath their head, and you can startle them by
going under and popping out on the other side. You are
also vulnerable to being bitten in this location.
Because your horse (a prey animal in the wild) has eyes set
on the sides of their head, they cannot see directly in front
of them.
Most horses are used to being led from the left, and
mounted from the left.
Always use a mounting block – this reduces the strain on
the horse’s spine during mounting.
Always use a break-away halter or full leather halter. A
horse trapped in a full nylon halter can sever their flesh or
even break a bone. Nylon is very strong and will not give
way in an emergency.
Always use a cotton lead rope. Nylon lead ropes can burn
right through your skin if the horse bolts or jerks away.
Keep excess lead rope folded in your hand rather than
looped. If the horse bolts, the folds will slide through
without injuring your hand. A looped lead rope could
quickly tighten around your hand, making it impossible to
3 |NCM EQUESTRIAN




get free. You risk broken fingers or hands, dislocated
shoulders, or even being dragged.
Always tie your horse to a spot designed for tying up or
cross-tying. Never tie to a gate. If you tie to a wooden post
or fence, use a loop of bailing twine around the wood, then
tie the horse to that. This prevents your horse from tearing
the fence/barn/stall down. The bailing twine will break in
an emergency.
Only use a halter for tying up a horse. Never tie the reins to
anything. Never attach cross ties to your horse’s bit.
Always be careful that the horse doesn’t step on the lead
rope or reins during leading or being tied up.
Be sure to have a calm, but assertive attitude when you are
interacting with horses. They are sensitive animals, and will
quickly pick up on nervous energy.
Reward your horse whenever he is being good. It is easy for
us to focus on all the things our horse does wrong – so
remind yourself – even if it’s as simple as standing quietly
while being groomed – let the horse know that’s what you
want.
LIST OF ESSENTIALS
HORSE MANAGEMENT






Grooming Kit (see next section)
Hair moisturizers solution and spray bottle
Fly Spray
Bot scraper
Buckets (at least 3)
Sponges
o Body sponge (large)
o Dock sponge (small)
o Face sponge (small)
 Basic shampoo
 Antimicrobial shampoo
 Sweat scraper
VETERINARY












Set of stable bandages and pillow wraps
Triple antibiotic ointment
Sterile gauze pads
Vet Wrap
Scissors
Bandage scissors
Petroleum jelly
Alcohol
Iodine
Thermometer
Latex gloves
Epsom salt
4 |NCM EQUESTRIAN
 Duct tape
 Thrush treatment
EQUIPMENT

















2 Breakaway halters (one extra)
2 cotton lead ropes (one extra)
Chain attachment for lead rope
Bridle*
Bit*
Saddle*
Safety stirrup irons and leathers*
Girth*
Saddle pad
Sheepskin half-pad
Dressage whip
Crop
Longe whip
Cotton longe line (minimum 30’ long)
Helmet
Appropriate riding apparel
Waffle sheet (aka Irish knit): sweat-wicking blanket to keep
a horse from becoming chilled if they are sweaty in the
winter.
 One set of all purpose brushing boots
 One pair of bell boots
 Fly mask
 Towels and rags
 Clippers
 Shipping boots
*These items should be chosen with the guidance of an experienced
professional
HORSE MANAGEMENT
GROOMING
Your horse should be groomed thoroughly every time you ride. This
prevents dirt and debris from making your horse uncomfortable in
his tack, or while moving around under saddle. If you are short on
time, you must at least groom the bridle and saddle area, and pick
the hooves. Grooming regularly has major health benefits, and it
strengthens the relationship you have with your horse.
HEALTH BENEFITS



Improves circulation of blood and fluids in the connective
tissue. This helps loosen and relax the muscles
Spreads oils evenly over the coat creating a lovely shine,
and protecting the skin from the elements
Allows you to thoroughly check your horse for injuries, skin
problems, swelling, etc.
to loosen dirt, dander, etc. from underneath the hairs. Scrub off
mud, and give your horse a nice rub down. This also helps loosen
the muscles and connective tissue and get blood flowing before you
exercise your horse. Treat it like a massage.
THE HARD BRUSH, also known as a dandy brush, is used in short,
quick strokes to flick larger particles away and get down between
the hairs to stimulate and exfoliate the skin. Typically a stiffer brush
like this is too rough for the face or legs where the skin is thinner.
THE MEDIUM BRUSH is to be used in longer, sweeping strokes to
remove smaller particles, smooth the hair, and spread skin oils
through the hair to create a sheen. This brush is safe to use on the
face and legs.
SOFT OR FINISHING BRUSHES are used with long strokes to polish
the coat, and dust the tiniest particles away. If the horse is
particularly sensitive, you can use this brush on the face instead of
the medium brush.
HARD CURRY COMBS are not to be used on the horse’s body
because they are made with pointy metal or plastic teeth. They are
designed to release hair and dirt from your brushes between
strokes while grooming. Flick the bristles of your brushes along the
teeth to release dust and dander so you don't scrub these particles
back into the coat when you are grooming.
HOOF PICKS are used to remove and scrape debris from the hoof.
Pay special attention to the grooves along the frog. If the horse has
shoes, thoroughly scrape the inner edges of the shoes. If the horse
is barefoot, make sure to clean out the white line. Do not use the
pick directly on the frog, as this is soft, sensitive tissue. I highly
recommend using a pick with a stiff brush incorporated - it is
effective at flicking away any smaller residue that the pick can't get
to. I find that brushing the hoof out after picking reduces the
chances of conditions such as thrush or "hoof rot."
RUBBER CURRY COMBS come in circular, oval, or mitt varieties.
Apply to the horse’s skin with a circular motion and some pressure
A TAIL BRUSH is for combing out the mane and tail. Use a detangler
to prevent breakage of hairs and facilitate quick and easy tangle-
TOOLS
5 |NCM EQUESTRIAN
removing. I like Healthy Hair Care Moisturizer®. Stay away from
products like Show Sheen®, as they contain alcohol which dries the
hair and promotes breakage long-term.
CLEAN GROOMING TOOLS REGULARLY
Every couple months you should clean your grooming tools. Lots of
dirt, hair, and dead skin will build up in the grooves and bristles of
your brushes. Fill a sink or bucket with hot water, a few drops of
dish soap, a drop of bleach, and throw in your tools to soak. Once
the dirt has had some time to loosen up, scrub the tools and rinse
thoroughly. Clean the tools more frequently if your horse has a skin
condition, or if it’s been a particularly muddy season.
Do not share grooming tools between horses, as skin conditions
may be spread from horse to horse.
STALL CLEANING
Keeping your horse’s stall clean and dry is extremely important. If a
horse is constantly standing in moisture, he is likely to have hoof
problems like thrush or soft feet. Removing feces is important to
keep the parasite levels under control. Keeping the ammonia odor
down is best for you and your horse’s lungs.
There are different types of bedding, but sawdust or wood shavings
is the most popular in the Midwest. Sometimes materials such as
straw, paper shreds, or expandable pellets are used. Whatever
bedding is used, it should be deep enough that the urine sinks
below the surface - wet spots should be hidden under dry bedding.
This keeps the horse’s feet dry, and prevents him from getting urine
all over himself when he lies down.
6 |NCM EQUESTRIAN
FEED
CONCENTRATES: Grain
ROUGHAGE: Hay and grass
Both are important parts of your horse’s diet. Talk to an
experienced equestrian or vet to formulate the best rations for your
horse.
VITAMINS and SUPPLEMENTS
SALT
Horses require a salt source at all times. A salt block in the stall is
the most common method of providing this for your horse. They
come in pure and mineral varieties, and are available at your local
Tractor Supply®, or any equine catalog or shop. There are 50lb
blocks that sit on the stall floor, and also small bricks that can be
placed in a specially designed holder that mounts to the stall wall.
Loose salt is also an option, but can be messy.
SUPPLEMENTS
There are products out there for just about everything. Before
adding a supplement to your horse’s diet, talk to someone who is
experienced.
WATER
Horses should have fresh water accessible to them at all times.
They drink approximately 5-10 gallons per day, but each horse is
unique. You should be familiar with your horse’s typical water
intake. In the winter, horses are less likely to drink enough, due to
the icy cold water. You also must be careful of buckets freezing
over, making it impossible for the horse to drink. Consider a heated
water bucket.
BLANKETING
Blanketing when temperatures drop can help maintain body weight.
When a horse sweats during work in the winter, he can become
chilled if his coat holds moisture. If you blanket, you reduce the
growth of the winter coat which makes it easier for the horse to dry
out after work, preventing chills.
BLANKETING GUIDELINES
35-45º
25-35º
Under 25º
Sheet/ Light Weight
Medium Weight
Heavy Weight
If you have a horse that tends to get sore or stiff, blanketing can
help with that too. Keeping the body warm prevents the muscles
from tensing up against the cold, and improves circulation.
When purchasing blankets, be sure to buy “turnout” type blankets.
If the horse is going out at all, they need something that is water
and wind resistant. Turnout blankets are also designed to fit the
7 |NCM EQUESTRIAN
contours of the horse better and have the proper fittings to remain
securely in place during movement. In my experience, the best
brand of blanket is RAMBO®. This is the blanket to buy if you want
it to hold up to horses playing in the field, the elements, and years
of wear and tear.
CLIPPING
BODY CLIPPING
If you intend to train throughout the winter, body clipping is
something to consider. The horse will sweat less and dry quicker
when it is clipped. Blanketing is required when the horse is clipped,
and three weights of blankets will be needed to accommodate the
varying temperatures.
BLANKETING GUIDELINES FOR A CLIPPED HORSE
45-55º
35-45º
Under 35º
Sheet/ Light Weight
Medium Weight
Heavy Weight
AESTHETIC CLIPPING
Certain points on the horse should be clipped for showmanship
purposes. A well turned out and maintained horse should have
clipped:
 Ears
 Muzzle
 Bridle path
 Tail
VETERINARY CARE
VITAL SIGNS
A choking horse is usually visibly tense and distressed, with an
extended neck, and trying to continuously swallow. Sometimes you
will see drool and feed coming from the nose. Occasionally, a dose
of sedation will help the horse and esophagus to relax, and the
blockage will pass. Otherwise, a vet should be called.
Resting Vital Signs:
Temperature
99-101ºF
COLIC
Pulse
28-44 BPM
Respiration
10-24 BPM
Horses experience colic when they are having digestive pain. Since
horses cannot vomit, material not sitting well within a horse’s
digestive tract can become problematic and dangerous. Symptoms
include loss of appetite, not passing stool, pawing, kicking, biting at
belly, rolling, elevated temperature, etc. Call your vet. A muscle
relaxer, such as Banamine, can help (ask your barn manager or vet).
Walk the horse to prevent rolling, which can cause intestinal
complications. Sometimes surgery is required to relieve a blockage.
You must get familiar with what is normal for your horse. You
should also get comfortable with a working set of vital signs. What
are the numbers after moderate exercise? After strenuous
exercise?
It is important to know this, so you can identify when your horse’s
vital signs are abnormal, in case of illness.
SOME COMMON CONDITIONS and AILMENTS
CHOKING
Unlike in humans, choking in horses is a blockage in the esophagus.
It is usually caused by food that wasn’t thoroughly chewed. A horse
that is choking can still breathe, but the issue often causes distress.
Horses that bolt their food (eat too fast), or who have bad teeth are
more likely to choke.
8 |NCM EQUESTRIAN
PARASITES
Horses are susceptible to many different types of parasites. You
may need to address a parasite problem if your horse is colicking,
rubbing his tail, feverish, or experiencing diarrhea, weight loss,
anemia, etc.
RAIN ROT
Rain rot is a common bacterial infection on the skin. It shows up as
scabs, most commonly on the back or legs, causing raised tufts of
hair. It can be treated by bathing the horse to soften and remove
the scabs, and use an antimicrobial shampoo, such as Microtek®
Medicated Shampoo. Clean your brushes frequently, and don’t
share brushes between horses.
STOCKING UP
Stocking up is a condition in which a horses legs swell due to an
accumulation of fluid in the tissues, typically caused by being stallkept for an extended period of time. Exercise and turnout help
relieve this issue. Typically the horse isn’t lame from this condition,
so if your horse is lame, you should explore other causes of swelling.
Some horses are more prone to stocking up than others.
DENTAL
Age
Frequency of Floating
1-5
Every 6 months
5-20
Annually unless otherwise instructed by a trained
veterinary dentist.
20+
Examined every 6 months
Thrush is a bacterial infection of the hooves. It is easily treated with
a commercial product like Thrush Buster® or Hooflex® Thrush
Remedy. Traditionally, thrush is believe to affect horses who don’t
have their hooves cleaned regularly, however it has also been linked
to chronic lameness, poor farrier work, and inadequate exercise.
Horse’s teeth grow constantly. The natural chewing process keeps
them worn down to an acceptable length. However, the horse’s
upper and lower teeth, no matter how straight, never align
perfectly. Sharp hooks or points can form in locations of uneven
wear. Dentists can also form a "bit seat" so that the bit fits more
comfortably across the mouth. Wolf teeth are premolars that can
interfere with the bit. Many young horses have these teeth
removed to prevent discomfort while wearing a bit.
TREATING MINOR CUTS AND WOUNDS
FARRIER
Clean the cut with a mild soap and iodine solution. Rinse and allow
the cut to air-dry. Apply triple antibiotic ointment. If your horse
has a puncture wound, or a cut in which the flesh is separated (ie.
You can use your hands to place the flesh back together) consult a
veterinarian.
Horses need their feet trimmed every 6-10 weeks depending on the
health and growth rate of the foot, work load, and terrain. If the
toe is curling up or there is cracking, the hoof is definitely in need of
a trim. You want to allow the hoof time to grow back, but trim
before they get so long that problems are occurring. Some horses
can go barefoot, while others need shoes all the way around. It is
common for horses with good feet in mild to moderate work to go
happily in front shoes with bare hind hooves. Some horses benefit
from quality hoof supplement to facilitate strong healthy growth of
THRUSH
9 |NCM EQUESTRIAN
the hoof. My favorite, after years of experimenting with my
Thoroughbred’s less than stellar feet, is Hoof Power®.
VACCINES
Your horse should receive spring and fall vaccines appropriate to
your region.
MIDWEST VACCINES
Tetanus Toxoid
Annually
Equine Encephalomyelitis
Eastern, Western
Annually, Spring
Influenza
Annually
Rhinopneumonitis (EHV-1 and
EHV-4)
Semi-annually
West Nile Virus
Annual Booster
Strangles
Semi-annually
Potomac Horse Fever
Semi-annually
Rabies
Annually
10 |NCM EQUESTRIAN
WRAPPING
All horse owners should learn how to do a proper leg bandage. You
should have an experienced equestrian show you how to do this. It
is important to understand that you can do more damage than good
with an improperly executed bandage. Pressure points can cause
damage to tendons (bowed tendon) and loose wraps can become a
tripping or entanglement hazard.
APPAREL
make great lightweight gloves with crocheted backs that allow
airflow so your hands don't get too hot). In the winter, numb
fingers aren't very effective.
HELMETS
All riders should find an ASTM/SEI certified helmet that properly
fits. Each brand tends to be shaped differently, so take some time
to try on different helmets and find one that is right for you.
Helmets should be snug, but without pressure points. You should
be able to bend over, upside down, helmet strap unclasped, and the
helmet should remain in place on your head. If you stand and shake
your head back and forth, there should be no wiggling of the
helmet. Ensure the straps are comfortable around your ears before
you make a purchase. Strap should be snug under your chin but not
choking you. Your helmet should be black, navy, brown, or gray.
BOOTS
Leather boots that cover and support the ankle are a must! They
should have a supportive sole but not a bulky one - you don't want
your foot to become wedged in the stirrup. Equine footwear must
also have a low heel to ensure that the foot does not go through the
stirrup. Riders may consider tall boots, or paddock boots with half
chaps. This prevents chafing and pinching on the inner calf while in
the saddle. If you ask me - a must! But it is optional.
GLOVES
Gloves are optional. However, I believe they have great value - and
typically don't cost much. In the summer, when your horse sweats
all over the reins, they quickly become too slippery to grasp. (They
11 |NCM EQUESTRIAN
BREECHES
Breeches tend to be more comfortable than jeans. They have
smaller, less bulky seams, and stretch easily. Knee patch breeches
have suede at the inside of the knee, while full seat breeches have
suede on the inner leg from the knee to the crotch, and also across
your rear end. They provide superior grip, but are more expensive.
I'd wait to invest in a set of full seat breeches for when you start
doing more collected flat work, or jumping
WATCH
Always wear a watch while you’re riding so you know how long to
warm up, work, and cool down. This is especially important if you
are building up the fitness of a green horse or a horse that’s been
out of work for a while.
TACK and EQUIPMENT
SADDLES
DRESSAGE SADDLE
Designed to position you in a balanced position with a long leg for
most effective aid-use.
JUMPING SADDLE
The jump saddle has a forward flap to give room for your knee to
bend as you jump with much shorter stirrups than with dressage.
CLOSE CONTACT saddles are traditionally used for
Hunter/Jumpers. They have a jumping flap, with a knee
padding, and a rather shallow, balanced seat.
CROSS COUNTRY saddles are designed for more defensive
riding. The flap is extremely forward to allow for a very
short galloping stirrup, and there are often knee and thigh
blocks that help secure your leg on the flap. Sometime the
center of balance in the saddle is further back to “get
behind the horse” and drive to the fences. I do not
recommend this saddle unless you are galloping large cross
country fences, and have ridden in all sorts of jump saddles
before choosing this style.
MONOFLAP saddles can be Jumping or Dressage saddles,
and are designed with only a sweat flap (most saddles have
an additional flap between the sweat flap and your leg).
These are designed to be closer contact and lighter weight.
12 |NCM EQUESTRIAN
ALL PURPOSE SADDLE
If you’re not sure what type of riding you want to do, you may be
tempted by the “All Purpose Saddle.” However, I don’t recommend
them. Rather than serving many purposes, they tend to serve no
purpose at all. You can’t adopt a correct dressage seat in these
saddles, nor can you achieve a correct jumping position. If you’re
going to want to jump at all – just buy a proper Jump Saddle.
BRIDLES
There are many different styles of bridles, but they all serve the
same general purpose: to hold the bit in the horse’s mouth. They
all have a headstall with a brow-band that goes across the forehead,
cheek pieces that come down and hold the bit, a noseband, and
reins. There are different types of nosebands that can affect the
functionality of the bridle, but for the most part they all do the
same thing. Unless you have a horse with a particular control or
health issue, you should be using a basic snaffle and bridle.
REINS
This is a personal preference.
RUBBER REINS provide excellent grip, but can be bulkier than other
types.
WEBBED REINS also have decent grip, and are thinner, but can get
cold and moldy from moisture (not ideal for trails or cross country).
LACED LEATHER REINS are traditional for hunter jumpers. The grip
is moderate, but the laces can be rough on a gloveless hand.
PLAIN LEATHER REINS look very nice in the dressage ring, but tend
to slip through the fingers very easily.
BITS
A horse should always be ridden in the least aggressive bit possible
for the rider to maintain the attention and control of the horse.
Some sort of snaffle is ideal.
There are so many categories and subcategories of bits, it is not
possible to describe each and every combination in this small,
comprehensive document. Below I will discuss several types that
are most common among my students and horses. If you want to
read more in depth, check out The Complete Book of Bits and
Bitting by Elwyn Hartley Edwards. The least severe bits have the
rein and cheek piece attached to the same ring on the bit.
LOOSE RING SNAFFLES are the kindest bit. The reins are attached to
rings that spin freely from the mouth piece, allowing only direct
pressure from the hand; there is no added leverage.
DEE RING AND EGGBUTT SNAFFLES provide slightly less give than
the loose ring, but still performs a very basic mechanism and
doesn’t add severity to the bit.
FULL CHEEK SNAFFLES have a post protruding up and down from a
fixed ring, so as the bit is engaged from side to side, pressure is
applied to the horse’s face. It can be helpful with a horse that
doesn’t steer well.
LEVERAGE BITS have a separate place for the cheek piece and rein,
which causes the bit to rotate when the reins are applied, pulling
the cheek piece down, and applying pressure across the poll. There
are many types of bits that use this sort of mechanism.
13 |NCM EQUESTRIAN
BIT MATERIALS range from stainless steel to copper to flavored
plastic and more. The different materials have their different
purposes, and horses’ preferences are unique
NOSEBANDS
TRADITIONAL nosebands buckle around the nose, above the bit, and
under the cheek pieces. They are fitted with two fingers being able
to fit snuggly within the noseband while buckled. Most bridles are
equipped with this type of noseband, and typically horses go well
with this type of band and no additional gadgets
FLASH nosebands attach to a traditional noseband, and then wrap
around the nose under the bit. They are fitted snuggly, as they are
typically designed to prevent a horse from opening their mouth
while being ridden.
FIGURE EIGHT nosebands have two loops that criss-cross on the top
of the nose. One strap is fastened just below the jaw, and the other
is fastened below the bit. These nosebands are designed to free up
the nostrils for better breathing during vigorous exercise.
WHIPS


Dressage whips are long and flexible. They are designed to
rest balanced across your thigh, and be applied without
removing the hands from the reins.
Jumping bats or crops are shorter and not particularly flexible.
The rider must take hand off reins to apply this type of whip.
SPURS
Spurs come in all shapes and sizes. Generally, it is recommended
that you do not ride in spurs until you have discussed this with an
instructor who has seen you ride. If spurs are required, a short,
rounded shank is most desirable, and most comfortable for your
horse.
14 |NCM EQUESTRIAN