1/6th scale King tiger tank build story
After Completion of my 1/6th scale M26 Pershing I decided to build something German in the same
scale. Since I was on a heavy tank streak I decided that my next build was going to be a 1/6th scale King
tiger tank. For the build’s base kit I used the 1/6th scale fully radio controlled kit from Armortek
Armortek is a UK model company that focuses on 1/6th scale Fully metal RC WWII tank models. What
makes their models unique is that their models are all crafted out of scale thickness aluminum plate.
This model in particular was going to weigh about 500lbs when fully assembled. Their kits are all
computer designed and all hull components are laser cut and come ready to assemble like a large
erector set. All of the other components are fabricated from both CNCed and casted aluminum.
I have built two of their models in the past (an early Tiger I and their early M4A3) so I had previous
experience with working with one of their kits. Working in this media is different from working on other
past projects. The model’s assembly is all bolt together via bolts and fasteners, rather than using
adhesives like on standard scale plastic models. The kit does supply you with all of the components to
assemble a very simple and basic model out of the box. The tank’s kit supplied details are rather
simplistic and leave room for improvement.
For My build I wanted to place as much functional and non functional details on the model as possible.
For reference I used several images of preserved vehicles off the internet, several 1/35th scale model kits
from various manufacturers, and several books on the King Tiger that were in my collection. I also used
for reference walk around images of the Aberdeen Jagdtiger that I took while visiting the museum back
in 2008.
During the construction all of the fasteners that are used to join the panels together are done with
counter sunk Allen screws. On my build all of these screws were covered up and were sanded flush via
the body work. Also on the tank’s hull plate sides I added torch cut lines. These lines were engraved into
the aluminum plates via a Dremel rotary tool and a cutting disc. Detail weld beads were also added via
sculpted epoxy sculpt. For the tank’s suspension and drive train I mostly stuck with the kit supplied
components because the kit did a very good job with their layout and details. Only slight improvements
were needed to be made to the tank’s bump stops, hubcaps, road wheels, and sprockets to enhance
them further.
All of the tank’s basic kit supplied details were either modified to make them more accurate, or were
replaced entirely. The replacement details are fabricated out of metals, plastics and resin.
Because the model is fully radio controlled I wanted to make of the tank’s details fully functional
(pivoting periscopes, engine smoke, lights…etc). To do this many of the details had to be modified so
that the components will be functional, but their detail appearance will be seamless with the rest of the
model and won’t look off. In addition to adding more functions I also needed more access to the tank’s
interior to get access to the tank’s batteries and other electrical and mechanical equipment. Luckily that
on the real king tiger the front hatch mounting plate/ transmission access plate gave me the perfect
point of entry.
The access plate was supplied by the kit, but the kit required the plate to be mounted to the tank’s
upper hull via fasteners. To make the pate easily accessible I designed a locking mechanism that utilizes
the tank’s front ventilator guard dome as a knob that when twisted slides cams that unlock the plate
from the top deck, allowing you to get access to the tank’s hull. Along with the access plate interior LED
lighting was added which helps illuminate the tank’s interior when the need to get interior access is
required. The lights are designed to activate only when the hatch or access plate is lifted. The system
works similar in concept and design to the light that you see in your refrigerator.
One portion of the King Tiger that I always found interesting was the engine cooling fan and Air intake
system. For My RC model I wanted to add this unique feature, but to also make the system work. For the
fans I utilized two large PC cooling fans that not only serve as a unique detail element, but also aid in
pumping cool air into the model which is beneficial to the tank’s electronics. In addition to the fans I also
fabricated the tanks air intakes and radiator ducts. These parts were also made to be functional in that
with a flip of a switch the ducts adjust the cooing fins on all four of the ducts. These all adjust in
sequence and simultaneously.
From the beginning of the project I wanted to build my model as a command vehicle. To do this I had to
fabricate two additional antenna bases and mounts. One on the rear portion of the tank’s turret, the
other in the standard antenna location, and the final was mounted in a well located behind the rear
engine hatch. In addition to the extra antenna base mounts an antenna storage tube, and a retracting
antenna clamp was also needed to make the tank a command vehicle. For these details I was assisted
from images of the Kubinka King tiger.
The large antenna well, the antenna storage tube, and the antenna clamp were all scratch built and
were not part of the kit. For the tank’s Sternantenna I fabricated this component entirely out of soldered
brass. The reason for this type of sturdy construction was because this component was attached to the
tank’s RC receiver and when connected the tank’s radio range was improved. Also by attaching the
antenna to the detail component I eliminated the need to have an unsightly RC antenna emerging from
the vehicle.
Along with the tank’s external detailing I also had to fabricate the tank’s interior hatch detailing. These
details were added to the bow hatches, rear escape hatch, and commander’s copula. All of the latch and
locking mechanism, details that were added to the hatches were made to be functional. The kit supplied
loaders hatch was an white metal aftermarket hatch from armorpax (another 1/6th scale part supplier)
and needed no alterations.
To control the model I use a 6 channel radio. To control all of the model’s extra functions I connect many
auxiliary functions to piggyback off some of the main functions on the radio. With this one channel can
control more than one function.
The kit doesn’t supply the Antiaircraft machinegun, or the AA machinegun mount. For the gun I used the
2nd generation 21st century toys MG34. The gun was improved by deleting the gun’s seams, and giving
the gun a fresh repaint and dry brush weathering. For the Mount I used the Armorpax white metal
MG34 Panzer gun mount. The mount itself was a nice piece, but was modified so that the gun can pivot
and spin freely.
The kit also supplies the builder a set of white metal pioneer tools from armorpax. These tools are a nice
addition, but to enhance them further I replaced the cast metal tool handles with scratch built wooden
ones.
For the tank’s paint scheme I used a simple three tone ambush type camouflage pattern. All of the
tank’s markings are also painted on via homemade stencils. The paints that I used are a combination of
both latex and acrylic. All of the paint and aging was performed with an airbrush. Drybrushing was used
on the tanks edges and the model’s tools.
Since the tank is fully RC and made from metal I decided not to drybrush the worn look on the tracks,
rather the tracks would weather themselves naturally from driving around.
This build from start to finish took seven months to complete, and required extra skills from metal
fabrication to electrical work to assemble. It is one build that when complete I can enjoy and appreciate
when standing still or when I am tearing up clumps of grass as I evasively turn on my lawn.