Corset Making Overview Worksheet
for the Nova Albion Steampunk Convention
Corset Making Overview Discussion Worksheet
Topics:
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Corset types
Patterns and Fitting your body
Construction Methods and Materials
Decoration
Modification
Online Resources
Corset Types
Fashion profiles for different centuries and decades.
Modern ideals and misconceptions of Victorian and Edwardian corset fashion profiles.
Steampunk typical emphasis on late Victorian
Overbust, underbust, mid-bust, sweetheart, long-line, merry widow
Corsets vs. corselets vs. modern “corset” negligee
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Corset Making Overview Worksheet
for the Nova Albion Steampunk Convention
Corset-shaped bodices, stretch fabrics, and other alternatives to real corsetry
Tight lacing and other health and fashion myths
Shaping for men – historic and modern
Corset as an integral layer to a garment, rather than a stand-alone item
Patterns and Fitting Your Body
Finding a balance of natural body form and body sculpting
Observing your own body type and shape
Impact of torso length and waist placement
Plus-sized vs. skinny fit concerns
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Sidney Eileen ©2011
Corset Making Overview Worksheet
for the Nova Albion Steampunk Convention
Different piecing styles and the impact on shape and construction (panels, gores)
Buying a custom pattern
Taking your measurements
1) Bust Circumference
This measurement should be taken at the fullest part of the bust, which is usually across the nipples. This measurement is only used on overbust style corsets.
2) Underbust Circumference
This measurement should be taken directly under the bust. If your bra has an underwire, you may want to remove the bra for this measurement.
3) Lowest Rib Circumference
This measurement should be taken at the height of the lowest part of your rib cage. To find the bottom of your rib cage, run your hand down your side and follow
your ribs down towards your kidneys. If you are plus-sized it might be difficult to find, so take the measurement roughly where you think it is. This measurement is
most important on thinner individuals, because it helps prevent any uncomfortable pinching of the rib cage.
4) Smallest Waist Circumference
This is the place where your torso is smallest in circumference. Depending upon your body type and weight, it is possible that the smallest waist will be anywhere
from just below the underbust to a bit below the lowest rib measure. If you have no definable waist, take this measurement where you consider your waistline to
be.
Natural Waist Circumference and Distance From Underbust (not on diagrams)
This measurement is used for most conical corsets, stays, and bodies instead of the smallest natural waist. This is because if the corset extends lower than this
on the sides it will have a tendency to dig in.
To find your natural waistline stand straight up with your feet shoulder-width apart. Lean to the side and put your finger where your torso bends. Do the same to
the other side, and repeat until you are certain of the location. Take the circumference and distance measurements at this height on your torso.
5) Point of Hip Circumference
This the highest point at the front of the pelvis. Feel for the bony top of the pelvis on either side of the abdomen, and take the measurement there.
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Sidney Eileen ©2011
Corset Making Overview Worksheet
for the Nova Albion Steampunk Convention
6) Hip Circumference
This is not necessarily your full hip measurement. When standing, lift your leg and place your finger just above where the leg articulates into the pelvis. Take the
hip measurement at this height.
7) Bust-to-Underbust Distance
This is the vertical distance from the bust to underbust, taken to the side of the bust or under the armpit. This measurement is only used for overbust style
corsets.
8) Underbust-to-Rib Distance
This is the vertical distance from the underbust to where the lowest rib measurement was taken. Along the side is usually the easiest place to take an accurate
measurement.
9) Underbust-to-Smallest-Waist Distance
This is the vertical distance from the underbust to smallest waist.
Underbust-to-Natural-Waist Distance
This is the vertical distance from the underbust to natural waist (not shown on diagram).
10) Underbust-to-Point-of-Hip Distance
This is the vertical distance from the underbust to the highest part of the pelvis.
11) Underbust-to-Hip Distance
This is the vertical distance from the underbust to the articulation point of the hip joint.
Utilizing your measurements to alter a commercial or scale pattern
Making your own pattern
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Sidney Eileen ©2011
Corset Making Overview Worksheet
for the Nova Albion Steampunk Convention
Making a mock-up, and altering the pattern based on the mock-up
Fitting properly - the bust, underarm, belly front, entire hip, entire upper torso, avoiding muffin-top or
squished bottom
Construction Methods and Materials
How historically accurate do you want to be?
Number of layers and possible material to use
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Sidney Eileen ©2011
Corset Making Overview Worksheet
for the Nova Albion Steampunk Convention
Coutil (in all its varieties) vs. drill, twill, cotton canvas, linen canvas, hemp canvas, mesh, and other
alternatives
Lock-stitching vs. top-stitching vs. welt seam
Integrated cover material vs. separate cover material
Lining materials
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Sidney Eileen ©2011
Corset Making Overview Worksheet
for the Nova Albion Steampunk Convention
Edging methods and materials
Different boning materials and available sizes (spring steel, spiral steel, reed or cane, baleen, plastic,
cable ties, cording, quilting), sources and the impact on quality
Boning inclusion methods (sandwiched, welt seam, boning tape – self made or purchased)
Busks (split metal, spoon, tapered, extra wide, gold, black, backing bone) vs. other closure types (lacing,
zipper, swing hooks, speed lacing, D-rings, buttons)
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Sidney Eileen ©2011
Corset Making Overview Worksheet
for the Nova Albion Steampunk Convention
Wooden busks
Grommeting
Laces
Lacing panels, stomachers, and modesty panels
Decoration
Painting
Embroidery
Appliqué
Lace and other edging materials
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Sidney Eileen ©2011
Corset Making Overview Worksheet
for the Nova Albion Steampunk Convention
Multiple layers of cover material
Pleating, gathering, and other alterations to the cover material
Utilitarian additions
Garters, ties, shoulder straps, and other additions
Modification
Altering the size or fit
Replacing edging
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Sidney Eileen ©2011
Corset Making Overview Worksheet
for the Nova Albion Steampunk Convention
Replacing a busk or altering the front closure
Replacing or covering the cover material
Patching
Re-securing loose boning
How worn out is too worn out to fix
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Sidney Eileen ©2011
Corset Making Overview Worksheet
for the Nova Albion Steampunk Convention
Online Resources
Suggested Search Terms:
Corset making tutorial
Corset making supplies
Tailoring supplies
Historic corset
Historical corset pattern
Corset pattern
Corset pattern drafting
This is a very abbreviated list of possible resources and suppliers. For more links, please visit my web
site at http://sidneyeileen.com/links
By Sidney Eileen
http://sidneyeileen.com
Free tutorials on corset making, and costuming and art blog
Foundations Revealed
http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/
Subscription site with corset making tutorials
Sacramento City Dry Goods
http://www.saccitydrygoods.com/
Sacramento-based historic costuming supply
Lacis
http://www.lacis.com/
Berkeley-based historic costume supply
Dharma Trading Company
http://www.dharmatrading.com/
San Rafael based fabric and dye supply
Corset Making Supplies
http://corsetmakiing.com
Well-rounded corset supplier – US Based
Richard The Thread
http://www.richardthethread.com/
Historic Costuming Supply – US Based
Farthingale’s Canada
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/home.htm
Canada-based corset making and costume supplier – has many items hard to find within the US
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Sidney Eileen ©2011
Corset Making Overview Worksheet
for the Nova Albion Steampunk Convention
Seattle Fabrics
http://www.seattlefabrics.com/
Utility fabrics and hardware like grommets at very reasonable prices
Bergen Tailor Supply
http://bergentailorsupply.com/customtailorsupplies.aspx
Notions and fabrics relating to tailoring, not usually found at fabric stores
Tutu.com
http://www.tutu.com/
Inexpensive source for black or white American-mill coutil
King and Company on Etsy
http://www.etsy.com/shop/KingAndCompany
Reasonable prices for high-quality busks and boning
Reconstructing History
https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/
A little bit of everything
Such-a-Deal Lace and Trim
http://www.laceandtrim.com/
Sacramento-area retail and wholesale supplier of ribbon and lace trims
The Hide and Leather House, Inc.
http://www.hidehouse.com/
Leather supplier based in Napa and L.A.
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