How To Treat Odors In Well Water
The incidence of “rotten egg” sulfur odors and black or gray water in hot and
cold water lines are due to the reaction of sulfates and microorganisms in
water. This can occur in the well directly, or in the household plumbing in
both hot and cold water pipes, or in only the water heater and hot water lines.
Cold Water Odor or Hot Water Odor?
To determine the source of the odor and decide on the type of treatment
required, it is important to first check to see whether the cold water contains
odor, or just the hot.
Toilet tank with black
slime caused by
hydrogen sulfide gas
and sulfer bacteria..
• Run the hot water to notice the odor. Then move to another faucet and run
the cold water. If the cold water has an odor, then the source is in the cold
water.
• If the hot water alone has odor, then the odor is occurring primarily in the
water heater.
• Next go outside and determine if the well water contains odors directly
from the well by running water outside the home, before it enters the home
piping.
Odors Caused by Bacteria & Sulfates
Sulfur and iron
bacteria can create
rotten-egg odors in
water heaters unless
treated .
Some well waters contain an excessive amount of sulfates with various
strains of sulfate bacteria. These bacteria, while harmless to health, will react
in stagnant water that has been depleted of oxygen, and will produce
hydrogen sulfide gas.
If your well water is used directly from the well, and not aerated in an
atmospheric (non-pressurized) storage tank, then the odors are most likely
caused by anaerobic bacteria. These types of bacteria thrive in oxygendeprived environments, and often on waters high in sulfates. If the cold water
entering the home contains no odor, odor can still develop in cold water
piping in the home, especially in galvanized iron piping. Often iron piping in
the house is of an older age and can be corroded, providing a good
environment for the bacteria to grow and odors to develop.
Metering pumps used
to inject chlorine
bleach.
If there is an odor in the cold water inside the home, but not directly from the
well, see if the piping is iron piping, and then replace it with copper. As a
first step to this process, one can shock-chlorinate the piping and sanitize it,
and see if the odor can be eliminated.
Water Heater Odors
If the water is in the hot water only, then a shock-chlorination of the water
heater and servicing or replacing the anode rod in the water heater can
eliminate this problem.
Water heater showing
sacrificial anode rod.
Almost all water heaters have “anode rods” which in a cathode-anode
reaction, produce excess ions that wear off the anode rod and adhere to the
inside glass lining of the water heater, preventing corrosion. These bacteria
(typically the “desulfovibrio” or a related species) can be killed with
adequate amounts of chlorine by periodic shock chlorination, or by
continuous ozone or chlorination, or by turning up the water heater to
extremely high (often dangerous) temperatures.
Odors Present Directly From Well Water (outside house)
One of the following methods is typically used to remove hydrogen sulfide
gas from well water:
• Periodic shock chlorination with high doses of chlorine
• Aeration of the water to oxidize the hydrogen sulfide gas, combined with
periodic shock chlorination.
Greensand filter with
potassium
permanganate alone
removes odors, but
works better with
chlorine feed.
• Chlorine, hydrogen peroxide, or ozone injection alone
• Filtration of the odor by greensand media, activated carbon or other filter
media
• Chlorine, hydrogen peroxide, or ozone injection followed by filtration with
greensand, activated carbon or other media.
Periodic shock chlorination with high doses of chlorine
This involves injecting into the well, pump system and piping a 50 to 200
ppm dose of chlorine. The chlorine residual is allowed to sit in the well for 6
to 24 hours, and then the water is pumped out until the chlorine residual is
gone. This will typically eliminate the odor problem temporarily. If the odor
Ozone generator used
for odor removal from
well water.
returns, often within a couple of days to a few weeks, the procedure can be
repeated. If after a couple of repeated shock-chlorination procedures, the odor
is still present, one of the other methods will need to be used.
Aeration of the water to oxidize the hydrogen sulfide gas, combined with
periodic shock chlorination.
Since the bacteria that create the hydrogen sulfide odor are usually anaerobic,
or bacteria that cannot thrive in oxygen rich environments, often aeration in a
non-pressurized vented holding tank is beneficial to eliminate and drive off
the gas into atmosphere. This works best if the pH is low (less than 7.0) since
the hydrogen sulfide gas at pH higher than 7.0 will not easily gas off
completely.
Continuous Chlorine Injection
Odors can be controlled in water by chlorination, followed by retention or
contact time and aeration. See Fig. 1. Chlorine is a powerful oxidizer, and
while not as powerful as ozone by weight, is less expensive to install and
operate than ozone systems.
Usually 2.0 to 3.0 ppm of chlorine is injected for every 1 ppm of sulfide,
however if the pH is over 7.8 it can take up to 5 to 10 ppm of chlorine per 1
ppm of sulfide to treat hydrogen sulfide. If the pH is over 8.0 we usually
recommend ozone or hydrogen peroxide injection instead of chlorine bleach.
With chorine, as ozone, contact time and concentration of the chlorine is
critical. The chlorine can be injected either in before an open atmospheric
holding tank (Figure 3) or injected under pressure using a metering pump and
a contact tank or pressure tank. Chlorine injection followed by a contact tank
and a good backwash filter system is the more thorough approach.
Fig. 1 Chlorine Injection with non-pressurized tank
Hydrogen Sulfide Test
Kit
Ozone
There are two main methods for injecting ozone into water. In Method 1, (see
Figure 1) an open holding tank of at least a 200-gallon capacity is used.
Larger holding tanks up to 5000 gallons work better. A compressor or blower
is set up on a timer, or wired in so that when the well pump runs, the ozone
blower system runs. The air compressor is hooked up to a ceramic diffuser
stone, creating a large volume of tiny air bubbles.
If sufficient air is used, and the hydrogen sulfide levels are low, this method,
combined with periodic shock chlorination works well. Shock chlorination is
required to keep the levels of bacteria down in the well and holding tank.
In the open bubbler tank design, a UV generated ozone generator can be
used. The UV-generated ozone systems produce lower concentrations of
ozone but lots of aeration is used, and these ozone generators cost a lot less
than corona-discharge generators. Aeration and residence time allow the
hydrogen sulfide gasses to be oxidized and odors eliminated.
In the second method (Figure 2) , ozone is injected via a venturi under
pressure, as the water flows through a contact tank. This type of ozone
injection usually requires higher concentrations of ozone and typically a
corona-discharge generator with dry air or oxygen feed gas is used.
Since there is less residence time and the ozone is under pressure, as the
water is flowing through the contact column. This type of ozone injection
does not require an open holding tank and second booster pump. It does
require an ozone generator capable of putting out a much more concentrated
level of ozone gas, and stainless steel tanks, or ozone-resistant plastic tank
must be used to avoid corrosion problems.
Usually, after either types of ozone injection, in Figure 1 or Figure 2,
filtration is required. Depending on the water chemistry, filtration by
greensand, sand and anthracite, or activated carbon filters are used. These
types of filters are periodically backwashed to keep the media clean and free
of trapped sulfides, iron or manganese oxides.
Fig. 2 Ozone injection and contact tank
Removal of Odors by Filtration
Hydrogen sulfide gas odors can be removed by filtration but results vary, and
usually filtration alone is not effective. The reasons for this are that typically
odors and hydrogen sulfide gas are the result of bacterial action. Often the
odors can be removed at point of entry to the home or business, and then
develop again in the piping system and water heater.
It is more effective to use filtration after aeration, ozone, peroxide or chlorine
injection for best results. In some applications, with low levels of hydrogen
sulfide gas odors, greensand media filters, regenerated with potassium
permanganate are the very effective in removing hydrogen sulfide or rotten
egg odors.
Activated carbon is less effective and the life of activated carbon media beds
are short, and often require frequent replacing, sometimes within a few weeks
after installing the carbon filter.
A very effective and low cost method of hydrogen suflide gas removal is by
injecting chlorine or hydrogen peroxide, followed by a Greensand-Plus filter.
Greensand-Plus is an improved type of greensand filter media that does not
require potassium permanganate. A slight chlorine residual can be left in the
water after the filter, so that the pipes and water heater are kept disinfected,
elmininating any chance for odors redeveloping in the household piping.
Figure 3
Greensand Plus Iron & Odor Filtration System
See Figure 3. The booster pump is controlled by pressure switch. When
pressure in pressure tank drops below the cut-in point on the pressure switch
the booster pump and metering pump turn on. As water is pumped through
the system, a small amount of chlorine or hydrogen peroxide is pumped into
the water by the metering pump.
As the water flows into the contact tank, the chlorine is thoroughly mixed in
the water, allowing contact time to kill any bacteria and oxidize any iron,
manganese or hydrogen sulfide gas. Precipitated oxidized particles of iron,
sulfides and manganese are filtered out of the water by the greensand-plus
media filtration system.
Periodically the filter is backwashed automatically and these oxidized
particles are flushed down the drain to a drain pit or septic system. Unlike
regular greensand systems, no potassium permanganate powder is required.
Home | Online Storefront | Water Problems | Technical Resources | Contact Us | Company Info
Clean Water Systems & Stores, Inc. 2806-C Soquel Ave, Santa Cruz, California 95062
Phone: 831-462-8500 Fax: 831-476-0832
Call us Mon. - Fri. 10AM - 8PM Eastern Time or 7AM - 5PM Pacific Time!
We ship from our warehouse in Ohio for fast Midwest & East Coast service.
For West and Southwest orders, we ship from our warehouses in California or Arizona.
©Copyright 1997-2008 Clean Water Systems & Stores, Inc., All Rights Reserved
How To Treat Odors In Well Water
The incidence of “rotten egg” sulfur odors and black or gray water in hot and
cold water lines are due to the reaction of sulfates and microorganisms in
water. This can occur in the well directly, or in the household plumbing in
both hot and cold water pipes, or in only the water heater and hot water
lines.
Cold Water Odor or Hot Water Odor?
To determine the source of the odor and decide on the type of treatment
required, it is important to first check to see whether the cold water contains
odor, or just the hot.
Toilet tank with black
slime caused by
hydrogen sulfide gas
and sulfer bacteria..
• Run the hot water to notice the odor. Then move to another faucet and run
the cold water. If the cold water has an odor, then the source is in the cold
water.
• If the hot water alone has odor, then the odor is occurring primarily in the
water heater.
• Next go outside and determine if the well water contains odors directly
from the well by running water outside the home, before it enters the home
piping.
Sulfur and iron
bacteria can create
rotten-egg odors in
water heaters unless
treated .
Odors Caused by Bacteria & Sulfates
Some well waters contain an excessive amount of sulfates with various
strains of sulfate bacteria. These bacteria, while harmless to health, will react
in stagnant water that has been depleted of oxygen, and will produce
hydrogen sulfide gas.
If your well water is used directly from the well, and not aerated in an
atmospheric (non-pressurized) storage tank, then the odors are most likely
caused by anaerobic bacteria. These types of bacteria thrive in oxygendeprived environments, and often on waters high in sulfates. If the cold water
entering the home contains no odor, odor can still develop in cold water
piping in the home, especially in galvanized iron piping. Often iron piping in
the house is of an older age and can be corroded, providing a good
environment for the bacteria to grow and odors to develop.
Metering pumps used
to inject chlorine
bleach.
If there is an odor in the cold water inside the home, but not directly from the
well, see if the piping is iron piping, and then replace it with copper. As a
first step to this process, one can shock-chlorinate the piping and sanitize it,
and see if the odor can be eliminated.
Water Heater Odors
Water heater showing
sacrificial anode rod.
If the water is in the hot water only, then a shock-chlorination of the water
heater and servicing or replacing the anode rod in the water heater can
eliminate this problem.
Almost all water heaters have “anode rods” which in a cathode-anode
reaction, produce excess ions that wear off the anode rod and adhere to the
inside glass lining of the water heater, preventing corrosion. These bacteria
(typically the “desulfovibrio” or a related species) can be killed with
adequate amounts of chlorine by periodic shock chlorination, or by
continuous ozone or chlorination, or by turning up the water heater to
extremely high (often dangerous) temperatures.
Odors Present Directly From Well Water (outside house)
One of the following methods is typically used to remove hydrogen sulfide
gas from well water:
• Periodic shock chlorination with high doses of chlorine
Greensand filter with
potassium
permanganate alone
removes odors, but
works better with
chlorine feed.
• Aeration of the water to oxidize the hydrogen sulfide gas, combined with
periodic shock chlorination.
• Chlorine, hydrogen peroxide, or ozone injection alone
• Filtration of the odor by greensand media, activated carbon or other filter
media
• Chlorine, hydrogen peroxide, or ozone injection followed by filtration with
greensand, activated carbon or other media.
Periodic shock chlorination with high doses of chlorine
Ozone generator used
for odor removal from
well water.
This involves injecting into the well, pump system and piping a 50 to 200
ppm dose of chlorine. The chlorine residual is allowed to sit in the well for 6
to 24 hours, and then the water is pumped out until the chlorine residual is
gone. This will typically eliminate the odor problem temporarily. If the odor
returns, often within a couple of days to a few weeks, the procedure can be
repeated. If after a couple of repeated shock-chlorination procedures, the odor
is still present, one of the other methods will need to be used.
Aeration of the water to oxidize the hydrogen sulfide gas, combined with
periodic shock chlorination.
Since the bacteria that create the hydrogen sulfide odor are usually anaerobic,
or bacteria that cannot thrive in oxygen rich environments, often aeration in a
non-pressurized vented holding tank is beneficial to eliminate and drive off
the gas into atmosphere. This works best if the pH is low (less than 7.0) since
the hydrogen sulfide gas at pH higher than 7.0 will not easily gas off
completely.
Continuous Chlorine Injection
Odors can be controlled in water by chlorination, followed by retention or
contact time and aeration. See Fig. 1. Chlorine is a powerful oxidizer, and
while not as powerful as ozone by weight, is less expensive to install and
operate than ozone systems.
Usually 2.0 to 3.0 ppm of chlorine is injected for every 1 ppm of sulfide,
however if the pH is over 7.8 it can take up to 5 to 10 ppm of chlorine per 1
ppm of sulfide to treat hydrogen sulfide. If the pH is over 8.0 we usually
recommend ozone or hydrogen peroxide injection instead of chlorine bleach.
Hydrogen Sulfide Test
Kit
With chorine, as ozone, contact time and concentration of the chlorine is
critical. The chlorine can be injected either in before an open atmospheric
holding tank (Figure 3) or injected under pressure using a metering pump and
a contact tank or pressure tank. Chlorine injection followed by a contact tank
and a good backwash filter system is the more thorough approach.
Fig. 1 Chlorine Injection with non-pressurized tank
Ozone
There are two main methods for injecting ozone into water. In Method 1, (see
Figure 1) an open holding tank of at least a 200-gallon capacity is used.
Larger holding tanks up to 5000 gallons work better. A compressor or blower
is set up on a timer, or wired in so that when the well pump runs, the ozone
blower system runs. The air compressor is hooked up to a ceramic diffuser
stone, creating a large volume of tiny air bubbles.
If sufficient air is used, and the hydrogen sulfide levels are low, this method,
combined with periodic shock chlorination works well. Shock chlorination is
required to keep the levels of bacteria down in the well and holding tank.
In the open bubbler tank design, a UV generated ozone generator can be
used. The UV-generated ozone systems produce lower concentrations of
ozone but lots of aeration is used, and these ozone generators cost a lot less
than corona-discharge generators. Aeration and residence time allow the
hydrogen sulfide gasses to be oxidized and odors eliminated.
In the second method (Figure 2) , ozone is injected via a venturi under
pressure, as the water flows through a contact tank. This type of ozone
injection usually requires higher concentrations of ozone and typically a
corona-discharge generator with dry air or oxygen feed gas is used.
Since there is less residence time and the ozone is under pressure, as the
water is flowing through the contact column. This type of ozone injection
does not require an open holding tank and second booster pump. It does
require an ozone generator capable of putting out a much more concentrated
level of ozone gas, and stainless steel tanks, or ozone-resistant plastic tank
must be used to avoid corrosion problems.
Usually, after either types of ozone injection, in Figure 1 or Figure 2,
filtration is required. Depending on the water chemistry, filtration by
greensand, sand and anthracite, or activated carbon filters are used. These
types of filters are periodically backwashed to keep the media clean and free
of trapped sulfides, iron or manganese oxides.
Fig. 2 Ozone injection and contact tank
Removal of Odors by Filtration
Hydrogen sulfide gas odors can be removed by filtration but results vary, and
usually filtration alone is not effective. The reasons for this are that typically
odors and hydrogen sulfide gas are the result of bacterial action. Often the
odors can be removed at point of entry to the home or business, and then
develop again in the piping system and water heater.
It is more effective to use filtration after aeration, ozone, peroxide or chlorine
injection for best results. In some applications, with low levels of hydrogen
sulfide gas odors, greensand media filters, regenerated with potassium
permanganate are the very effective in removing hydrogen sulfide or rotten
egg odors.
Activated carbon is less effective and the life of activated carbon media beds
are short, and often require frequent replacing, sometimes within a few weeks
after installing the carbon filter.
A very effective and low cost method of hydrogen suflide gas removal is by
injecting chlorine or hydrogen peroxide, followed by a Greensand-Plus filter.
Greensand-Plus is an improved type of greensand filter media that does not
require potassium permanganate. A slight chlorine residual can be left in the
water after the filter, so that the pipes and water heater are kept disinfected,
elmininating any chance for odors redeveloping in the household piping.
Figure 3
Greensand Plus Iron & Odor Filtration System
See Figure 3. The booster pump is controlled by pressure switch. When
pressure in pressure tank drops below the cut-in point on the pressure switch
the booster pump and metering pump turn on. As water is pumped through
the system, a small amount of chlorine or hydrogen peroxide is pumped into
the water by the metering pump.
As the water flows into the contact tank, the chlorine is thoroughly mixed in
the water, allowing contact time to kill any bacteria and oxidize any iron,
manganese or hydrogen sulfide gas. Precipitated oxidized particles of iron,
sulfides and manganese are filtered out of the water by the greensand-plus
media filtration system.
Periodically the filter is backwashed automatically and these oxidized
particles are flushed down the drain to a drain pit or septic system. Unlike
regular greensand systems, no potassium permanganate powder is required.
Home | Online Storefront | Water Problems | Technical Resources | Contact Us | Company Info
Clean Water Systems & Stores, Inc. 2806-C Soquel Ave, Santa Cruz, California 95062
Phone: 831-462-8500 Fax: 831-476-0832
Call us Mon. - Fri. 10AM - 8PM Eastern Time or 7AM - 5PM Pacific Time!
We ship from our warehouse in Ohio for fast Midwest & East Coast service.
For West and Southwest orders, we ship from our warehouses in California or Arizona.
©Copyright 1997-2008 Clean Water Systems & Stores, Inc., All Rights Reserved
How to Treat Iron Bacteria in Home Well
and Tap Water
By: Gerry Bulfin
Iron bacteria consume iron to survive and in the process metabolize the iron into a
protective slime layer around the cells, making them very resistant to elimination. Iron
bacteria do not cause health problems but do leave a reddish brown or yellow slime that
can clog plumbing and foul water softeners and iron filters.
You may notice this brown or rust colored stringy-appearing slime in your toilet tank
when you remove the lid. In addition to causing plumbing and fixture problems iron
bacteria clog well screens and reduce well yields. Iron bacteria can produce odors that
may resemble fuel oil, cucumber, or sewage. These odors may be noticeable only in the
morning or after periods when the water has not been used. Iron bacteria can co-exist
with various species of sulfur bacteria which can give off a rotten-egg odor.
Treating Iron Bacteria by Shock Chlorination
Even though chlorine is a powerful disinfectant, iron bacteria can build up a thick slime
that keeps the disinfectant from penetrating beyond the surface cells. In addition, iron,
manganese and hydrogen sulfide gas that are often present in well water can absorb much
of the chlorine before it has a chance to reach the bacterial cells. Because chemical
reactions are slowed at the cool temperatures common in wells, bacterial cells need a
long exposure for chlorine or other disinfectants to be effective. Even if chlorine kills all
the bacterial cells in the water, those in the groundwater can be drawn in by pumping or
drift back into the well.
Because of these factors, thoroughly treating an iron bacteria infestation requires more
than simply dumping bleach into the well. The following steps are recommended:
Approximately 8 quarts of 5.25% household chlorine bleach should be mixed with 100
gals. of water. The goal is to prepare an amount more than the amount of water standing
in the well, and so the 100-gallon measure is a safe estimate if this is not known. You can
mix this water in several clean trash containers.
Pour or pump the solution into the well. Attach a hose to an outside hose bib or faucet
and place the other end of the hose into the well. Open the faucet and circulate the water
for at least one hour washing down the inside of the casing and the pump piping. Faucets
in your house should be opened until you detect a chlorine smell, and then close them.
Allow the chlorine solution to remain in the well and piping for at least 24 hours, before
purging the system free of the chlorine. If you have a chlorine test kit, make sure there is
at least 10 ppm of chlorine left in the well water after the 24 hours. If you detect a
chlorine residual less than 10 ppm, repeat the entire shock chlorination process if
possible.
Run the chlorinated water outdoors on a field or ditch since it can have a negative effect
on septic tanks. It may also kill grass and shrubs, and under no circumstances should be
run into a pond or stream.
Well owners may need to repeat this process more than once in order to rid the system
entirely of the iron bacteria.
Prevent Iron Bacteria Infestations
When a new well is drilled, or when an existing well pump is repaired, soil containing
bacteria can be introduced into the groundwater from pipes or pumps that were laid on
the ground. Surface water used as drilling water may also infect the well with iron
bacteria.
An improperly constructed or maintained well can be contaminated by surface water
leaking into the well. In some cases floods will force surface water into the well and
cause contamination. Poorly maintained or defective septic systems, barn or cattle areas,
and other sources of contamination may allow water containing bacteria to penetrate the
well through open cracks in the bedrock.
Although these sources may cause more serious water quality problems which could
cause disease (such as e.coli bacteria, parasites and viruses) they could also be sources of
iron bacteria in a well.
Well Chlorinators
In many cases the iron bacteria are not eliminated despite repeated attempts to sanitize
the well and plumbing. At this point a permanent and on-going disinfection system may
be employed.
Chlorine is the most common disinfectant used in home water well systems, but hydrogen
peroxide and ozone are also highly effective against iron bacteria. If the well is losing
production due to iron bacteria slime and build-up a chlorine pellet feeder that dispenses
chlorine pellets down the well may be the best solution.
The chlorination, peroxide or ozone injection system is typically installed after the well
but before the water enters the household piping in order to disinfect the water of iron
bacteria. A large enough contact tank must be employed in order for the water to be
thoroughly disinfected after injecting the disinfectant.
Article Source: ABC Article Directory
Gerry Bulfin is a licensed water treatment contractor and WQA Certified Water
Specialist IV specializing in treating bacteria in well water. He may be contacted through
the website www.cleanwaterstore.com or by calling 831-462-8500 or by emailing him
here.
Disinfecting A Well Contaminated With Bact
and/or Hydrogen Sulfide Odors
DISINFECTING A WELL
using chlorine bleach*
I recommend using hydrogen peroxide instead
1.
1. Remove well cover. Pour the required amount of bleach into the well. SEE TABLE BELOW.
2.
2. Run ALL faucets in the house, one at a time, until you smell the chlorine at the faucet.
This ensures that the whole system will be disinfected.
3. Connect a garden hose to an outside tap or an indoor tap with the correct thread
fitting. Put the other end of the hose into the well, turn on the faucet, and from
time to time move the hose so that the chlorinated water bathes the sidewalls of
the well casing. Do this for at least six hours. Turn off tap and remove the hose
from the well.
4. Replace the well cover.
5.
6.
5. DON’T USE THE WATER for at least twelve hours. Forty-eight hours in optimal.
6.Run the water to waste but NOT IN THE SEPTIC SYSTEM for several hours, or until the chlorine
taste is dilute enough to be unobjectionable. The best way to run the water to waste is to use the
garden hose mentioned above (item 3). Direct the hose into an area where the chlorinated water
will not cause environmental damage or affect the water supply of others. For a typical well, this
may take 3-4 hours.
NOTE: To avoid pump overheating and possible damage, turn off the water when flow is at a trickl
and wait at least 15 minutes before turning on the pump again
7. After a week of use, retest for bacteria.
8. In some cases, one chlorination treatment WILL NOT be sufficient. Repeat disinfection procedur
as needed. You can also use calcium hypochlorite granules to provide a continuous release of
chlorine in your well.
Be sure to have a whole house KDF/Activated Carbon filter in place if you’re going to add
chlorine to your well. You can use a by-pass valve to circumvent it when disinfecting the house
pipes.
Well Depth
Amount of Liquid Household Bleach
Up to 150 ft
One Quart
151 to 300 ft
Two Quarts
over 300 ft
One Gallon and 1 cup crushed
swimming pool tablets
Source: Ohio Department of Natural Resources
* My comments:
It is my opinion that you can never entirely disinfect a contaminated well. Think about it.
You're using chlorine to attempt to eliminate every single individual bacteria. No. What you're doi
is buying some time. The population will slowly rebuild. When you use chlorine you also release
dangerous trihalomethanes into your water supply. These are very dangerous but can be removed
with the proper filtration.
I recommend using hydrogen peroxide in place of chlorine. Both are oxidants. Hydrogen
peroxide does not last as long in the well. It dissipates, converting to water and oxygen. Thus, yo
may have to repeat the treatment more often, but the byproducts are not hazardous. Apparently
though if you have bromides in your well it can convert these to bromates which do have health
impacts. As always, it is best to test before proceeding.
I have instructions for disinfection using hydrogen peroxide. You can purchase those here for $75:
Instructions for Treating a Well using Hydrogen Peroxide
Some people recommend the use of calcium hypochlorite granules to provide slow release of chlori
in a well to control bacteria, iron, or hydrogen sulfide odors.
I try to stick with all natural non-toxic methods whenever possible.
If you have a problem with bacteria I would recommend that you also install a 5 micron filter,
followed by an Ultra Violet light, followed by a 1 micron filter. This will kill the bacteria as they ent
your home.
Further thoughts....
Be aware of activities in your community that can put your drinking water at risk. Talk to your
neighbors to determine if problems with your drinking water are individual or community-wide.
Check out the history of the area in which you live to determine if past activities are having a
present impact on your drinking water.
And manage your own septic tank if you have one. Replenish it on occasion with bacteria (I use
Roebic K-37, which you can buy at any hardware store) to aid in digestion and limit your use of
chemicals in the house, such as bleach, Lysol, and other sanitizers, that will kill the bacteria in the
septic. Visit my link on using natural cleaning products to learn more.
***
You may return to my water purification products and services here:
Water Products, Water Tests, and Services
James P McMahon
Ecologist
866-691-4214
(toll-free)
leave messages or press #1 to reach me directly
or
435-574-2711
(direct)
©
Sweetwater, LLC
"When you drink the water, think of the spring"
Return to:
www.cleanairpurewater.com

**
Sweetwater Healthy Home Environments
Water purification systems - Whole house and kitchen, water softeners. Consultant for specific water problems.
375 Cedar Tree Dr.
Brookside UT 84782
Phone: 435-574-2711 E-mail Web
If you want a whole house water purification systems that will give you the most comprehensive protection availab
along with the best tasting, best showering, bathing and the healthiest water you've ever experienced, call me. M
name is Jim McMahon and I help people achieve healthy water in their homes.
(C) 2004
Sweetwater, LLC 375 Cedar Tree Drive, Brookside, UT 84782
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