Honing Oil - Survival School

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OVERVIEW
The “Right Angle” Knife Sharpener
was
designed
with
the
serious
outdoorsman in mind. The idea was
conceived after day 3 of a 10-day January
survival trip in northern Maine.
My
“razor sharp” knife-edge was getting dull
and space and weight considerations of the
trip had forced me to leave bulky knife
sharpener at home.
A cheap, "shirt
pocket" did little to sharpen the blade.
Being one of the 99% of us that find it
hard to hold a constant angle on just a flat
stone, I decided then and there to design a
truly portable sharpener that really
works.
The “Right Angle” Sharpening System
was the result. It is lightweight, compact,
and durable. It allows for 2 sharpening
angles, and can use either an oil or
diamond stone. Most important, IT GETS
YOUR KNIFE SHARP-----FAST!
The “Right Angle” Sharpener can use
either a Tennessee Abrasive Oil Stone or
the DMT Diamond Whet Sharpening
Stone; both come with “dual grit” faces.
The Tennessee Abrasive Oil stone
(included with the standard package) will
give you a very sharp edge and is
economically priced. The DMT Diamond
Whet Stone will give you that sharp edge
quicker due to ability to remove metal
quicker and cleans up with water.
This knife sharpener is designed to be
carried with you, (where it should be),
since knife sharpeners left at home is no
use to you when you need it in the field.
DIRECTIONS (OIL STONE)
1. Slide the red upright into the slot
in the base for the angle you want to
sharpen your knife blade*.
Upright
23 slot
18 slot
stone grove
Base
2. Begin with the coarsest stone you
plan to use, facing up. Put a thin coat
of honing oil on the stone. Place the
groove in the upper end of your
sharpening stone against the top of
the upright and rest the bottom end of
the stone in the groove in the base.
Knife
5. Turn the sharpener around to do
the other side of the blade. Hold the
knife in your left hand and steady the
stone against the upright with your
right hand. Again move the knife
down the stone as in the previous
step 20 times to sharpen the other
side of the blade. (Sharpening this side
SERATED BLADES must use Diamond
Sharpening Rod # FSKC - (call to order)
3. With your left hand, hold the
sharpening stone against the top of
the upright, keeping the upright
firmly in the slot in the base.
DIRECTIONS con’t
6. Once you’ve done 20 strokes on
both sides of the blade repeat the
process for a second pass only this
time use 16 stokes on each side.
After 16 stokes on each side of the
blade repeat the process using 12
stokes, then 8, then 4 then one. Use
lighter pressure on the stone for each
pass.
Hold the top of the rod Steel Rod
with one hand.
7. Flip the stone over (finer side up),
put a light coat of oil on the surface,
and place the top against the upright
and the bottom in the stone groove in
the base. (Same as Step 2 and 3)
Stroke the blade down this finer side
of the stone, repeating steps 4 – 6.
Remember always keep the blade
perpendicular (straight up and down)
to the base and always keep the
upright at a 90 angle to the base.
9. Stroke the knife blade along the
rod using very light pressure. Only 3
to 4 strokes per side are needed.
Again remember to keep the blade
perpendicular (straight up and down)
to the base and always keep the
upright at a 90 angle to the base.
8. After finishing with the finest
stone you have, the “burr” must be
removed from the edge. This burr
will prevent the edge from being
“razor sharp”. To remove it, place
the steel-finishing rod in hole at the
end of the sharpeners base piece.
The hole is drilled at a 171/2 angle
for those who want a precision final
finished edge-angle to their knife. *
4. Hold your knife in your right hand
keeping it perpendicular to the base
(straight up and down). Move the
blade down the stone as if you were
scraping the top layer of stone off.
Press down using enough pressure to
remove some metal from the blade.
Always keep the blade perpendicular
(straight up and down) when moving
it down the stone. Repeat this
downward sharpening stroke 20
times on this side of the blade. (See
drawings on back)
of the blade may feel awkward at first, but
will soon become comfortable after
sharpening 3 or 4 knives)
Upright
DIRECTIONS con’t
7. Progress to the finest stone you
have repeating steps 4 through 6 with
each stone.
DIRECTIONS con’t
Knife
Steel Rod
*Instead of inserting the rod into the
hole, an alternative is to hold the rod
in one hand and the knife in the other
and strop it as typically done by
chefs. The angle between the knifeedge and the steel rod is not critical
as long as LIGHT PRESSURE is
used.
THE “RIGHT ANGLE”
SHARPENER
MNSI, Inc.
PO Box 31764
Cleveland, Ohio 44131
1-888-886-5592
www.survivalschool.com
SHARPENING TIP
18 angles are used for fillet knives or
pocketknives. This produces a
very sharp edge.
23 angles are used for larger hunting
knives where a sharp but more
durable edge is needed.
Honing Oil
Honing oil is a light oil used to protect
surface of the sharpening stone and
prevents it from becoming clogged or
glazed with metal particles.
Initially, soak the stone in oil for 5
minutes, then remove it from the oil and
allow the stone to soak up any oil
remaining on the surface.
When sharpening a knife in the future,
don’t use a lot of oil. Only a light coating
to each side of the stone is needed before
each sharpening. Too much oil will allow
the blade to “slip” over the stone and
won’t sharpen the edge. Usually one
application of oil to the stone is all that is
needed while sharpening a knife.
Clean the stone after each sharpening by
rubbing a little oil into the stone’s surface,
then wipe its surface with a cloth. This
will keep the stone free of metal particles
and ready for the next sharpening.
Summary
Sharpening a knife blade is dependant on
two things…
1) Keeping the blade at a constant
angle
2) Having an abrasive surface to
remove metal from the blade.
The “Right Angle” Sharpener allows you
to keep an 18 or 23 angle by keeping the
stone at the correct angle. All you do is
keep the knife straight up and down.
As you repeat the decreasing number of
stoke cycles on each side of the blade with
decreasing pressure you will insure a
smooth, highly polished edge.
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