Division of Field Engineering for Environment
10203
Coastal and Offshore Engineering
Summer
Description and rationale: Wave and current fields in a near-shore region closely relate to coastal
environments via sand drift, mass diffusion and transport. In this course, physical and environmental problems
in the coastal region and countermeasures for them will be reviewed, and theoretical and computational
techniques to predict the wave and current field will be studied. Theoretical backgrounds for the wave
development process and wave-induced currents will be emphasized in this course. A final goal of this course is
to understand how to evaluate the coastal environments in terms of coastal engineering.
Keywords: small amplitude wave theory, energy balance equation, wave-induced current
Pre-requisite: none
Expected students: master and doctoral
Instructor:
Dr Yasunori WATANABE (yasunori@eng.hokudai.ac.jp)
Course outline:
This course is organized for understanding fundamental wave theory and its application as follows.
Introduction: Physical and engineering aspects of coastal processes in wave-current field
1. Water wave theory
1.1 Small amplitude wave theory: theoretical derivations of fluid velocity and pressure under waves.
1.2 Laboratory experiments: wave evolution and wave force acting on a structure will be visually confirmed.
2. Wave-induced currents: theoretical derivation of time-averaged flows on the basis of the small amplitude
wave theory.
3. Irregular waves
3.1 Statistical evaluation of the irregular waves
3.2 Directional wave spectrum
4. Energy balance equation (EBE)
4.1 derivation of EBE
4.2 Computational technique for solving EBE
4.3 Prediction of irregular wave field in the coastal region
5. Near-shore environmental assessments
Grading:
20%: class participation
80%: assignments (3 assignments are required during the term)
Textbooks and references:
1) Handout made by the course instructor will be provided.
2) References are shown below.
*Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists: R. G. Dean and R. A. Dalrymple
*The dynamics of the upper ocean: O. M. Phillips
*available at the library
01/2007