SCHOOL OF HORTICULTURE, HAIRDRESSING & APPLIED THERAPIES Level 2 Certificate in Cosmetic Make – Up and Beauty Consultancy Unit UV20419 – Provide Eyelash and Brow Treatments Course Notes Student Name: ____________________________ 0 Assess Client and Prepare Treatment Plans. It is important for a consultation to take place with every client before treatment begins. Once the therapist has managed to find out why the client has come to the salon, treatments can be planned accordingly. The main aims of the consultation are to: Put the client at ease. Establish a good relationship. Find out what the client wants. Ensure that there are no contra-indications for treatment. Discuss treatment options. Agree a realistic treatment plan. Answer the client’s questions. Sell the client appropriate treatments and products. Clients are unlikely to understand many of the treatments fully, until they are explained by a professional therapist. The more you explain to a client, the more evidence you provide of your technical knowledge, this obviously will result in the client having more confidence in your advice and faith in your professional judgment. When a therapist recommends a treatment or a course of treatments, the client must be informed of why these treatments are necessary, what costs are involved and what the benefits would be. Frequency of treatments and homecare products can also be discussed. Information is usually obtained at the consultation stage by asking questions relevant to the clients needs and by assessing the area to be treated. Listen carefully to your client, keeping eye contact and develop the responses they give, perhaps gaining more information about particular areas that need to be re-addresses e.g. medical history or medication taken. Details of the client’s details may be needed in an emergency, health and medication details are important to know when assessing client suitability for treatment. Such details are necessary for making accurate treatment decisions in the assessment of client’s skin type and in other diagnostic treatments. 1 Contra-indications need to be asked and recorded immediately. Should the client have a medical condition that contra-indicates treatment, it is important that the therapist refers the client to her GP, without unduly worrying her. The therapist should not under any circumstance attempt to diagnose any medical condition herself and referral to a clients GP when seeking clarification that the client can proceed with treatment should be formally addressed, without naming any specific contra-indications. Assessing the client prior to treatment provides the therapist with an accurate diagnosis and more effective treatment plan. Assessment can take place immediately after consultation, with treatment following afterwards or an assessment can take place during a treatment i.e. eyebrow shaping assessment given after a cleanse and skin diagnosis. The nature of the assessment will depend on the area concerned and instruction needs to be given to the client about undressing or positioning on the couch. Examination of the area must be completed in good light, therefore a magnifying lens could be used. The therapist needs to question client specifically about what the assessment brings to light, (treatment needs or skin conditions). It may also be necessary to establish during the consultation and assessment stage, the need for delaying the treatment, should the client require a patch test for eyelash tinting or false lash application. Remember that a tint/adhesive patch test should take place at least 24/48 hours before the treatment is undertaken, this is to establish the clients reaction to the product. Should the result be positive (itchy, red, swollen on the patch test area) then the treatment obviously must not be given. It is therefore essential to give a patch test to new clients wishing to book an appointment for eyelash tinting and false lash application well in advance. 2 Prepare the work area and the client for Eyebrow and Eyelash Treatment The treatment plan should be in agreement with both the therapist and the client, it should state clearly the benefits and probable outcomes. The client’s expectations of the treatment must be realistic and if this is not the case, the therapist must tactfully explain why the client’s wishes are likely to be unrealistic. Preparation of the working area and the client is of importance as usually it may be of one of the initial impressions received by the client before treatment itself commences. A well prepared working area with a well equipped neat trolley and a clean laid out couch, will instil confidence in the client about the therapist and subsequently the salons ability to fulfil a highly effective hygienic treatment. Points to Note and Carry Out. The level of lighting, heating and ventilation should be conducive to the treatment needs of the client. In addition: The couch and trolley should be prepared well in advance, before the client enters the salon. Clean, sterilised instruments are taken from the autoclave in view of the client and returned after treatment for further sterilisation. The therapist must wash their hands just before commencing the treatment. In ADDITION – remember – sterilisation and hygiene procedures should not only be done, they should be SEEN to be done. Disposable spatulas, dressing tissue, cotton wool, must be disposed of hygienically in appropriately SHARPS BAG to avoid cross infection. It is imperative that the therapist re-enforces and promotes all hygiene standards, not only through work, but also in a professional image. A clean, well ironed uniform, hair tied 3 back neatly, no jewellery (wedding band permitted), no nail varnish and no nail extensions. The therapist must explain to the client, the treatment requirements i.e. state of undress. Jewellery to be removed and appropriate position on the couch. Client discomfort caused through ineffective positioning can lead to poor treatment results and risk of injury to client and therapist. All equipment and materials used for each treatment must be placed and positioned for ease of use and comply with the Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 and COSHH 1992. A warm friendly manner is adopted towards the client through the initial preparation stages and through each treatment given. Full explanations and procedures must be explained as the therapist is actually performing the treatment. All contra- indications to each treatment must also be assessed visually during consultation as well as before treatment commences, and contra-actions if any must be explained before hand. Shape the Eyebrows to Meet Client Requirements Well shaped eyebrows will give the face more definition and accentuate the eyes. Eyebrow shaping is incorporated within a full facial treatment, but can be also be an individual minor treatment. If the client wished to have an eyelash/eyebrow tinting treatment then eyebrow shaping would be carried out after tinting. During the consultation with the client, it is important to draw attention to the client’s expectations of the eyebrow shaping treatment. Are they realistic or unrealistic about the treatment outcomes. 4 The main guidelines therefore to follow and consider would be: The natural shape of the eyebrows and face shape of the client. Client wishes and expectations. The changing fashion trends. The client lifestyle (how much time she has to spend on herself). Once the consultation has been completed, the area needs to be cleansed and visually assessed before treatment starts, checking that: There are no contra-indications present. Whether the desired shape would be the most effective for the clients face shape and ability to maintain at home. Measurement of eyebrows must be carried out before the treatment starts and this gives an accurate guideline to help in the measurement of an eyebrow shape. Eyebrow shaping can compliment or correct natural eyebrow shape, therefore by removing excess hair, not only from the natural shape if necessary but the finer hairs which grow further down the eye socket; the skin becomes smoother and more suitable for make-up. Eyebrow shapes come in and out of fashion regularly but most clients would prefer advice and guidance on the shape that would suit them. Contra-indications to Eyebrow Shaping Treatment Cuts, bruises and abrasions. Any eye disorders e.g. conjunctivitis and styes. Any Skin irritation or hypersensitivity around the eye area. Recent scar tissue. * REMEMBER A CONTRA-INDICATION IS A REASON FOR NOT GIVING A TREATMENT 5 Contra-actions to eyebrow Shaping The main contra-action would be an erythema reaction but may be irritation or watering eyes. The therapist must explain contra-indications and possible contraactions to the client before treatment commences. * REMEMBER A CONTRA-ACTION USUALLY OCCURS AS A RESULT OF TREATMENT Method of Work 1. Remove all make-up from the eye area. PUT GLOVES ON. 2. Tweezers should be sterilised in an autoclave. 3. Use a tiny amount of surgical spirit on a square of damp cotton wool, and wipe against the hair growth then with the hair growth. 4. Assess eyebrow area and measure (follow the diagram) the existing natural shape. 5. Apply hot damp pads of cotton wool (this relaxes the follicles). Brush with the hair growth using a disposable mascara wand. 6. Tweezing should begin between the bridge of the nose, where the skin is less sensitive. The mid and index fingers should keep the skin taut, working outwards in the direction of growth. (By keeping the skin taut can help to deaden pain nerve endings). 7. Remove any odd, strong or discoloured hair that may spoil the desired shape. 8. Consult with client at frequent intervals. 9. Check for sign of skin sensitivity and client discomfort. Apply witchhazel to soothe the area during shaping. Do not continue if there is an extreme reaction to treatment. 10. Brush brows into shape regularly and at the end of the treatment. 11. Offer the client a hand mirror to examine brows. Any readjustments to the brow area will need to be warmed again. 12. Apply antiseptic, soothing lotion in small amounts (to avoid getting it in the eye) with damp cotton to the area. 6 Homecare Advice The client should be aware of any contra-actions to treatment at the start. Eyebrow shaping contra-actions such as erythema, should be treated in the salon with a soothing, antiseptic cream. The client should be advised of homecare. a) Any redness/erythema should subside after a few hours. b) Client advised to apply antiseptic if erythema continues. c) Refrain from heat treatments, touching, applying make-up or perfumed products to the area, for up to 12 hours. Follow up Treatments A regular fortnightly eyebrow trim is usually all that is required once the client’s eyebrow shape has been achieved. Measuring Diagram It is essential to take the correct measurement of the brows prior to shaping. The highest point of the arch Where the eyebrows should commence Where the eyebrow should finish 7 Angular Shape An angled eyebrow has a sharp arch going up, then a dramatic slope coming back down. This shape works well for round faces, as it can help add depth and dimension. However, you must be careful not to make the angle too extreme, or you may end up looking constantly angry. Arched Shape An arched (also referred to as sweeping) eyebrow looks just like it sounds. It has a gentle arch that curves slightly upwards for most of the eye, and then gently slopes downward towards the outer eye. An arched shape is flattering on most face shapes as it gives width and expression to the eye. It can help to balance a prominent nose or a large mouth as it opens up the eye. This shape works for most faces, but is particularly useful for opening up a low brow line. A Rounded Shape A round/curved eyebrow is basically a half circle. The area that slopes upward and the area that slopes downward are just about even in proportion. This shape is wonderful for making angular faces seem softer and eyes brighter. This is ideal for large eyes or a wide forehead. 8 Low-arched shape A flat, or low-arched, eyebrow has very little curve to it and goes along a basic, almost straight line. This brow shape looks good on people with widely spaced eyes or long faces, as it minimizes overall distance and helps your eyes appear slightly closer together. This is also ideal for a low or small forehead. Eyebrow Problems Bare sparse brows Fill in with pencil. Use short feathery strokes in the direction of hair growth. Blend with an eyebrow brush. Sharpen pencil between each eyebrow to prevent cross-infection. Stray Hairs Remove stray hairs with tweezers in between salon treatment. Thin brows Pencil or powder shading can be applied to make the brows look thicker. Ensure the colour is the same as the client’s brows and correct blending reduces harsh lines. Wild stubborn brows Tweeze stray hairs and comb or brush through. Ensure that over tweezing does not occur or brows will have bald patches. Use an eyebrow product that can help the lashes stay in place. 9 Tint Eyebrows and Lashes to Meet Client Requirements This treatment enhances the client’s general appearance by giving definition to the eye area. It has become a popular treatment for clients of all ages, particularly for those who find difficulty in applying mascara or those with fair eyelashes and brows. Eyelash and eyebrow tinting should be recommended to clients who Definition of lash and brows. Gives appearance of lashes/brows looking bolder yet natural. For clients who prefer not to wear or allergic to mascara. Ideal where make-up is not acceptable in work or participate in a lot of sports. Where clients cannot apply mascara. To darken lashes. Spectacle or contact wearers. Hair tinted a darker colour. Due to go on holiday. Naturally fair haired. Patch Test Also known as skin sensitivity test, hypersensitivity test or predisposition test. Must be carried out 24 hours prior to treatment. Clients maybe sensitive to the tint and produce an allergic reaction – immediately or later. A patch test must be carried out prior to each tinting treatment – behind the ear or crook of the elbow. Treatment and results must be recorded on the client’s record card. If a positive result occurs, suggest soothing lotion and GP advice if symptoms persist. Positive result – swelling, irritation, erythema. DO NOT PROCEED Negative result – no reaction and treatment can be carried out. 10 Take care not to irritate the eyes before an eyelash tinting treatment or they may be too sensitive for you to carry on. Use a special eye make up remover which will dissolve and remove mascara quickly and gently, however avoid oily products as grease on the lashes can act as a barrier to the tint. Contact lenses must not be worn by the client during an eyelash tinting treatment. The client should be advised beforehand to bring in some soaking solution and a container for their lenses so that they can be kept safely on the trolley during treatment. Tinting Products Colours Choice of colours of tint:- Black, Brown Blue Grey Tints are available in different forms – jelly, liquid, cream. Cream/gel is advisable as it is thicker in consistency and does not run into the eye. The choice of colour is a matter of preference and can depend on: Client’s overall skin and hair colouring. Type of eye make-up worn. Age of client. As clients grow more mature, they lose a lot of natural colour from hair and eyes, therefore a brown or grey tint would be preferable to black for a softer more natural effect. It is also important to remember that: • Blonde hair colours easily and requires less development time. • Red hair is more resistant to tinting and may require a longer development time. • Grey hair can be resistant to tinting and will require a longer development time. 11 • Eyelash tints contain vegetable dyes and are relatively safe chemical dyes. It is essential to use a tint that is permitted by EU regulations and complies with The Cosmetic Products (safety) Regulations 2003. Use of other tinting products will invalidate insurance. Peroxide 10 volume (vol) or 3% strength only is used. Hydrogen peroxide will not work if it has ‘gone off’. This means that it has lost its strength (and its oxygen). This occurs if it is not stored properly and is left exposed to the air. The following guidelines must be followed: Keep the container closed tightly. Replace lid immediately after use. Measure out the exact amount of hydrogen peroxide you need and never pour any excess back into the bottle. Mix the tint immediately before use. Store hydrogen peroxide in a dark coloured glass bottle in an upright position ideally a cool dark place. How the Tinting Process Works Small molecules of permanent dye called toluenediamine are found in tint. Hydrogen peroxide is known as an oxidant. TINT + HYDROGEN PEROXIDE = OXIDISATION Mix tint immediately before use Always replace the lid of the hydrogen peroxide immediately after use or it will lose its strength and its shelf life is reduced. Replace the lid on the tint or this will cause the tint to oxidise. 12 Failure to follow the above will result in a poor/non-effective treatment and a very unhappy client. Resulting in repeating the treatment or loss of custom How The Colour Develops Small dye molecules are mixed with hydrogen peroxide which pass through the cuticle and into the cortex Small dye molecules swell and join together and become permanently trapped in the cortex 13 When the tint and hydrogen peroxide is mixed, a chemical reaction occurs. When the tint is mixed and is applied to the hair, the particles are small enough to pass through the cuticle and enter the cortex. The chemical reaction continues, during development time, where the particles swell and become larger and are trapped in the cortex. This process is known as oxidisation. The hair colour is now permanent and will remain until it has grown out. If using two colour tints, ensure they are thoroughly mixed and then add the hydrogen peroxide. Mixing Ratio: 1cm tint = 2/3 drops peroxide 2cm tint = 4/5 drops peroxide Development Times LASHES Hair Colours Colours EYEBROWS Time Colours Time Blonde Black Brown Blue/black Brown/black 10 mins Brown on/off Dark Brown/black Black Blue/black 15 mins Brown Black 3-5 mins Red Brown/black Black Grey Brown Grey 10-15 mins Brown with a hint of grey. 10 mins Grey Brown 3-5 mins On/off Reapply if resistant grey hairs 14 Treatment Procedure (lash and brow tinting) 1. Remove contact lenses if the client wears them. 2. Cleanse off eyelash and eyebrow area using a non-oily eye make-up remover. 3. Apply petroleum jelly underneath the bottom lashes (take care not to apply petroleum jelly to the lashes). 4. Place cotton wool or shields underneath the lower lashes (to both eyes). 5. Mix the tint for the lashes (1cm tint + 3 drops peroxide). 6. Apply the tint with a brush or orange sticks to the bottom lashes of both eyes, then, close the eyes. 7. Apply petroleum jelly to the eyelids (ensure there is no petroleum jelly on the hairs). 8. Apply tint to the top lashes which are interlocked with the bottom lashes, painting down onto the cotton wool. 9. Apply damp circles to cover the eyes so that client will not open them. 10. Note the time for correct development. 11. Brush each eyebrow upwards. 12. Apply petroleum jelly around the brows. 13. Mix the tint required for the eyebrows. 14. Apply the tint with a brush – aim at the roots first, then apply to the ends of the hair, smoothing the brow hairs to their natural shape. Apply using a light pressure to avoid getting tint onto the skin. 15. Note the time for correct development. 16. To remove tint from the eyebrows – wipe with the growth to remove the excess tint and the wipe against the growth to remove tint from the roots. 17. Brush brows into place. 18. To remove tint from the lashes – remove top and bottom of cotton wool pads/ shields together (from both eyes together). 19. Remove excess tint from the lashes with damp cotton wool and cotton buds. 20. Check results with the client. 21. Give the correct client feedback. 15 Contra-actions A contra-action is an adverse during or after treatment. Record outcomes on the clients record card. A normal contra-action is erythema and slight tingling sensation. A severe contra-action can show as burning, itching, swelling and severe erythema. Possible Problems Poor results due to: Make-up or grease on lashes (acts as a barrier to the tint). Tint is old. Peroxide has lost its strength. Tint and peroxide incorrectly mixed. Incorrect development time. Poor application – blonde roots visible due to lack of care during application. Skin is stained with tint due to poor protection with the use of barrier cream. Aftercare It is essential that aftercare is always given to the client. This shows therapist professionalism and prevents clients taking legal action if this care is not given. Avoid touching/rubbing immediately after treatment. If redness/irritation occurs – apply a cold compress. Avoid strong sunlight as this can fade the lashes. The effects of the treatment should last for between 4 – 6 weeks. Eye Irrigation There are times when tint can accidentally get into the client’s eye. It is important not to panic your eye bath is already prepared on your trolley. The client will be stating discomforts of stinging and/or burning. Keep your client calm and explain that you will carry out an eye irrigation procedure to alleviate the symptoms of discomfort. 16 What you should do: Stop applying tint. Remove the pads immediately and remove as much tint as possible. This must be done very quickly to relieve client discomfort. Tilt the clients head to one side and trickle distilled water into the corner of the eye. This ensures the eye is irrigated with water to remove the foreign body. Use a tissue to collect the excess water. Apply a cool cotton wool compress to cool and soothe the eye. Apply Artificial Eyelashes Artificial eyelashes make the eyes larger and more expressive but they will appear harsh and theatrical unless applied skilfully. The length and density of the false eyelashes will determine how natural the final result is. Whether or not you should apply false eyelashes will ultimately depend on the client. Many people are unable to wear them because of the sensitivity of the area, others find that they are too conscious that there is something artificial on their eye. It is up to the therapist to make the client aware of the afore mentioned and to enquire whether she has had any previous experience of allergic reactions around the eye area. For photographic work, false eyelashes are a necessity and are part of the make-up procedure. 17 Patch Test It is essential that a patch test is carried out 24 hours before treatment for both strip and individual lashes. Apply a small amount of adhesive behind the ear. Wash off if a positive reaction occurs, suggest soothing lotion and GP advice if symptoms persist and note results on the clients record card. Positive result – swelling, irritation, erythema. DO NOT PROCEED Negative result – no reaction and treatment can be carried out. Contra-Indications The same contra-indications as all eye treatments apply to false lash application. The Benefits of Artificial Lashes It is essential to discuss with the client if they wish to have to have a natural or dramatic look. False lashes are designed to emphasise and enhance the eyes, by creating a fuller look to the natural lash and a defined appearance. The main benefits are: Clients allergic to tint and mascara. Special occasion. Make natural lashes look longer and fuller. Define the eyes. For photographic/evening/fantasy make-up. To aid a corrective make-up. 18 Effects Deep-set eyes Lashes – Fine pointed. Application – Upper and lower lashes. Reasons – Added definition to the eye. Round eye Lashes – Individual lashes. Application – Centre of the eye, outwards. Reason – Thicken lash line. Small eyes Lashes – individual. Application - outer corner of eye. Reason – makes the eyes look larger. Close-set eyes Lashes - individual. Application – outer third of the eye. Reason – widening the eye. During the client consultation, the therapist must establish what the client’s expectations are. Unrealistic client expectations must be explained to the client why it is not achievable and discuss and alternative solution. Points to Consider Client’s age – can be too harsh on an older client. Client’s natural lashes – ensure the false lashes complement the client’s own lashes. Special occasion – individual for corrective and strip for fantasy. Lash maintenance – removal and care of lashes. Timing – Strip, 10 minutes. Individual 20-30 minutes. Further treatments – strip, apply daily. Individual (3-6 weeks). 19 Application of Strip Lashes 1. Apply mascara if required to natural eyelashes having completed the eye make-up to the eyeliner stage. 2. Ensure lashes are clean and naturally curled (trimming may be necessary). 3. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to the base of false lash. 4. Hold lashes with tweezers and place as close to the natural eyelashes as possible. 5. Gently press false lash into place using an orange stick – from inner corner of the eye to outside. 6. Face the client from the front of the couch and with client’s eyes closed, check the lash fitting and ensure eyes remain closed while adhesive sets and to prevent it from entering the eye. 7. Show the client. 8. Continue make-up application – eyeliner and mascara (if not applied previously. Removal of Strip Lashes Strip lashes must be removed daily to avoid shape distortion. To remove each lash support the side of the eye and gently pull lash from the outer to inner corner. Clean the lashes. Human hair – use maufacturer’s cleaner or 70% alcohol. Synthetic lashes – soak in warm soapy water and rinse. Lashes need curling after cleaning – place on a tissue and wrap round a pencil for ½ hour. Once curled – place in the original container. Individual Lashes Applying lashes where they are needed to give thickness and length to sparse natural lashes. The effect should be natural. Cleanse eye area with an oil free cleanser. Select colour close to clients lash colour. Select length. 20 Use tweezers dip false lash into a tiny amount of adhesive and place each lash at the client’s natural eyelash root. Follow the natural curve of the eyelid. Shorter lashes are applied at the inner/outer corner of the eye and longer ones at the centre. When the glue has dried, comb through the lashes to blend in with the natural lash. Apply eye make-up. This will last approximately 2-4 weeks and may grow out with the natural hair. If lashes need to be removed a special solvent must be used. The client must be advised of either purchasing a solvent for home use or to attend the salon to remove the false lashes. Maintenance of flare lashes These are designed to last for up to 2-4 weeks. However it is essential that client’s follow specific homecare to maximise the length of results. Avoid showering for several immediately after treatment. Eye make-up can be applied in the normal way. However, on oil free eye cleanser must be used as oil will loosen the false lash. Do not rub the eye and avoid touching (at least 12 hours) the lashes as this can dislodge false lash. Mascara is difficult to remove as it clogs the false lash. Avoid extreme temperatures – sauna (at least 12 hours). Use a cotton bud dipped in solvent and roll down the lashes onto a tissue until the false lash has removed. Contra-actions must be explained. 21 Conjunctivitis Conjunctivitis is an inflammation of the conjunctiva, the mucous membrane that lines the eyelids and covers the white of the eyeball. Symptoms of conjunctivitis include inflammation, redness, sore, pus, burning, and itching. It can occur in one eye or both. Some individuals complain of a feeling of grittiness in the eye. Bacterial conjunctivitis is highly contagious and GP advice is needed. Stye A stye is a swelling on your eyelid, usually caused by an infection of one of more of the sebacoeus glands of the hair follicles (the root of the eyelash) in the eyelid. The infection collects as a small abscess or pus-filled sac, which feels like a hard painful spot or lump on the eyelid. As the pus gathers, it can be seen as a yellow colour under the thin surface skin. The cause is usually a type of bacteria called staphylococci and GP advice is needed. 22 Impetigo • This is a bacterial infection of the upper layers on the skin. • Skin is red, itchy and blisters, which weep, then dry to form a yellow crust. • Highly contagious. Treatment by doctor is necessary. Psoriasis • A common skin disorder, its cause is unknown. • Thought that it can be inherited or caused by stress. • The most common affected areas are the elbows, knees and back. Its appearance is: Dull, red papules round or oval in shape. Well defined margins covered in silvery scales. A rapid production of skin cells and a tendency of these cells to cling together cause the excessive scaling and flaking. Psoriasis is not contagious. Psoriasis is not contagious 23