Measuring and Explaining the “Creature
Comforts” of Performance Textiles
Sponsored by
Testing for Functional Textiles
Tear Strength
 Tearing Strength

Standards involved: ISO 139371/2; ASTM D1424; ASTM D2261;
ISO 3377-2; BS EN ISO 4674, etc

Apparatus involved: Elmendorf
Tester or Universal Strength
Tester –CRE;

The tearing strength is maximum
force needed to continue tearing
of a fabric that has a pre-cut
opening in the specimen.
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Tensile Strength / Elongation
 Tensile Strength / Elongation at
Break

Standard involved: ASTM D
5034; ASTM D2209; BS EN ISO
3376; BS EN ISO 13934-1 & 2,
etc

Apparatus involved: Universal
Strength Tester –CRE

The tensile strength is
determined by a force at a
constant rate of extension to a
fabric sample held in place by
one fixed and one moveable jaw.
The force required for a break in
the fabric is recorded. The
elongation at break is also
recorded by the strength tester.
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Seam Strength / Slippage
 Seam Strength / Slippage

Standard involved: ASTM D1683; JIS
L1093; ISO 13935-1/2, BS EN 13572

Apparatus involved: Universal Strength
Tester –CRE

The seam strength is determined by
stretching a seam aligned midway
between the gripping jaws, the
maximum force before seam breakage
is recorded. Seam slippage is similar to
seam strength, instead that the force is
measured when the seam has slipped
to a defined displacement. The seam is
not ruptured in the process
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Bursting Strength
 Bursting Strength

Standard involved: ASTM
D3786; ASTM D3787; JIS
L1096; BS EN ISO 13938-1
& 2, etc

Apparatus employed:
Hydraulic or Pneumatic Burst
Testers and Ball Burst Tester

The specimen is clamped in
a holder, a distension force,
either by means of hydraulic,
pneumatic, or mechanical
means, is applied on the
specimen until it ruptures.
The bursting force is the
maximum force recorded
during the course of testing
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Water Repellency/Resistance
 Water
Repellency/Resistance

AATCC 22 Spray Test

Apparatus employed:
Spray tester,

The test procedure
involves applying water to
a specimen surface, using
gravity. The after-test
specimens are then
assessed for amount and
degree of surface wetting
observed
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Water Repellency/Resistance
 Water
Repellency/Resistance

AATCC 35 Rain Test

Apparatus employed: Rain
Tester

The test procedure
involves applying water to
a specimen surface, under
pressure. A blotting paper
is behind the tested
specimen during the test.
The amount of water that
penetrates the fabric and
is absorbed by the blotting
paper is measured after
the test.
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Odor Determination
 Principle
The odor test indicates potential odor problems.
Market
EU
US
AS
China
Japan
Test Method
Ref. SNV
195651
Fed. Std. 148a
Method 11
N/A
GB/T14272
JIS L1093
General
Requirement
<3
<3
N/A
<2
<3
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Odor Determination
 The odor test is performed with reference to
SNV 195651. The test specimen (40g) is
placed on top of 300ml sodium carbonate
solution and kept in a closed container. The
container is put it into a oven set to a
temperature of 37 +/-2°C for 15 hours.
 Six people (minimum) are required to
independently judge the odor intensity and
rate it according to the following
nomenclature:
Intensity Scales
Grade 1 – odorless
Grade 2 – weak odor
Grade 3 – tolerable odor
Grade 4 – annoying odor
Grade 5 – intolerable odor
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Quick Dry / Moisture Management
 Move sweat/moisture away from the body to the outer
layer of the fabric
 Tests:
– Moisture Management
– Drying rate
– Wicking
– Water Vapor Permeability
– Air
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Liquid Repellency
 Principle
To determine the degree to which a mixture of water and alcohol
would be absorbed into a fabric.
AATCC Test Methods 193
Liquids composed of different combinations of water and alcohol are
dropped onto the surface of a fabric. The time it takes to be
absorbed into the fabric is observed. The rating is the number that
has been assigned to the liquid that is not absorbed into the fabric.
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Moisture Management
 Principle
To determine the moisture management
characteristics of a fabric as a moisture
management index
AATCC Test Methods 193
The results of the test are used to
determine a moisture management index
that is based on water resistance, water
absorption and transport characteristics
and wicking properties of the fabric
structure including the fibers and yarns.
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Wicking
 Principle
To determine the degree to which a liquid moves
up the length of a fabric
Fabrics are suspended in a measured depth of
water and the distance that the water travels up
the fabric specimen is measured over time.
Indication of moisture transport away from a
source.
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Drying Rate
 Principle
To determine the rate at which a fabric will dry
when wetted by water
Fabrics are wetted with a fixed amount of liquid
and then exposed to heat. The drying rate of the
fabric is determined by measuring the change in
weight over time.
Indication of moisture transport away from a
source.
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Water Repellency/Resistance
 Water
Repellency/Resistance

AATCC 127 Hydrostatic
Pressure Test

Apparatus employed:
Hydrostatic head tester

The test procedure
involves applying water
under the surface of a
fabric and measuring the
amount of pressure it
takes to force water
through the fabric. The
pressure to force 5 drops
of water through the fabric
is determined.
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Air Permeability
 Air Permeability

Standard involved: ASTM
D737; BS EN ISO 9237; JIS
L1096, etc

Apparatus employed: Air
Permeability Tester

The sample is secured on the
permeability tester. The tester
then generates an air pressure
gradient across both sides of
the sample. The faster the rate
of pressure gradient
degeneration, the higher is the
air permeability of the sample
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Thermal Resistance
 Thermal Resistance
 Provide thermal
insulation to body
 Tests:
– Thermal
resistance value
of fabrics
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Functional Products
 Major Test Items
• Garments
• Personal Apparel
• Hats
• Shoes
• Sportswear
• Swimwear
• Umbrella
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